l-Ergothioneine Protects Skin Cells against UV-Induced Damage—A Preliminary Study

Ergothioneine and its congeners: anti-ageing mechanisms and pharmacophore biosynthesis

Ergothioneine, Ovothiol, and Selenoneine are sulfur/selenium-containing histidine-derived natural products widely distributed across different organisms. They exhibit significant antioxidant properties, making them as potential lead compounds for promoting health. Increasing evidence suggests that Ergothioneine is positively correlated with healthy ageing and longevity. The mechanisms underlying Ergothioneine's regulation of the ageing process at cellular and molecular levels are beginning to be understood. In this review, we provide an in-depth and extensive coverage of the anti-ageing studies on Ergothioneine and discuss its possible intracellular targeting pathways. In addition, we highlight the recent efforts in elucidating the biosynthetic details for Ergothioneine, Ovothiol, and Selenoneine, with a particular focus on the study of their pharmacophore-forming enzymology.

Antioxidants with proven efficacy and elastin-conserving vitamin C-A new approach to free radical defense

BACKGROUND

This paper describes the background research and validation related to the formulation of a novel antioxidant product. Two defined outcomes were sought. Firstly, a combined efficacy of antioxidant ingredients in quenching free oxygen radicals. Secondly, the investigation into whether a vitamin C derivative sodium salt was elastin conserving in contrast to current vitamin C/l-ascorbic acid variations that have been reported to negatively affect elastin constitution and regeneration.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A leading l-ascorbic acid antioxidant available on the market was compared with the experimental new product in two studies. In the first experiment, the products were compared to assess their antioxidant properties. The evaluated products TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANT 1 and TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANT 2 were applied to human skin cultures (25-30 mg/cm2 ) for a total of 72 h of treatment and exposed to oxidative stress. The generation of free radicals was semi-quantitatively assessed by measuring the fluorescence intensity of the deacetylation and oxidation of the probe dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFH-DA). In the second experiment, an ex vivo skin model (derived from patients undergoing facelift procedures) was used to assess elastin preservation. Three skin explants were topically subjected to the two formulations daily for 7 days. The skin was then prepared and fixed for immunofluorescent assessment after staining with CD44 and tropoelastin antibodies. Images were then analyzed using ImageJ.

RESULTS

A full description of the different components selected for the new formulation is presented. In the first study, the experimental formulation performed with absolute equivalence to the comparator in its radical quenching capacity; both showed extremely effective antioxidant function. In the second study, the comparator negatively affected the existing elastin with areas of breakdown and diminished staining. In contrast, the new formulation showed good conservation of healthy elastin in all sections demonstrating elastin preservation.

CONCLUSION

A new antioxidant formulation was carefully designed with multiple actives that show an equivalent antioxidant capacity to a leading product on the market. More importantly, the vitamin C component shows direct elastin conservation and improvement as opposed to the comparator, which had negative effects on elastin preservation. This is in keeping with little-known literature reports on vitamin C and its negative effects on elastin and validates the use of a sodium salt derivative, which appears to have protective effects on elastin. These findings support the overall regenerative extracellular matrix changes seen with TriHex® technology in other products.

Ergothioneine: new functional factor in fermented foods

Ergothioneine (EGT) is a high-value natural sulfur-containing amino acid and has been shown to possess extremely potent antioxidant and cytoprotective activities. At present, EGT has been widely used in food, functional food, cosmetics, medicine, and other industries, but its low yield is still an urgent problem to overcome. This review briefly introduced the biological activities and functions of EGT, and expounded its specific applications in food, functional food, cosmetic, and medical industries, introduced and compared the main production methods of EGT and respective biosynthetic pathways in different microorganisms. Furthermore, the use of genetic and metabolic engineering methods to improve EGT production was discussed. In addition, the incorporation of some food-derived EGT-producing strains into fermentation process will allow the EGT to act as a new functional factor in the fermented foods.

Safe and Effective Antioxidant: The Biological Mechanism and Potential Pathways of Ergothioneine in the Skin

Ergothioneine, a sulfur-containing micromolecular histidine derivative, has attracted increasing attention from scholars since it was confirmed in the human body. In the human body, ergothioneine is transported and accumulated specifically through OCTN-1, especially in the mitochondria and nucleus, suggesting that it can target damaged cells and tissues as an antioxidant. It shows excellent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory effects, and anti-aging properties, and inhibits melanin production. It is a mega antioxidant that may participate in the antioxidant network system and promote the reducing glutathione regeneration cycle. This review summarizes studies on the antioxidant effects of ergothioneine on various free radicals in vitro to date and systematically introduces its biological activities and potential mechanisms, mostly in dermatology. Additionally, the application of ergothioneine in cosmetics is briefly summarized. Lastly, we propose some problems that require solutions to understand the mechanism of action of ergothioneine. We believe that ergothioneine has good prospects in the food and cosmetics industries, and can thus meet some needs of the health and beauty industry.

Skin Ageing: A Progressive, Multi-Factorial Condition Demanding an Integrated, Multilayer-Targeted Remedy

Of the human organs, skin is the most visible one that displays the manifestations of ageing. It has a very intricate microanatomical structure and performs several key physiological functions. The pathophysiology of cutaneous ageing is characterized by deterioration of structural stability and functional integrity, implying a continuous reduction in maximal function and reserve capacity, as a result of the accumulating damage due to both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Elimination of unfavorable expressions associated with facial and cutaneous ageing is the key patient demand in aesthetic dermatology. Even though the progress has been made in nonsurgical therapies like fillers and lasers, non-invasive interventions by using skin care products designed for rejuvenation at an early stage are the most popular and accessible solution among people. In this review, we have scrutinized the ageing-associated cutaneous changes at molecular, cellular and tissue levels. To optimize the ageing process towards a healthy skin, we propose an integrated, multilayer-targeted intervention, which involves both topical application of anti-ageing formulations from outside and oral supplementation from inside. Additionally, several promising naturally derived ingredients are reviewed from an anti-aging perspective. Most of them possess various bioactivities and may contribute to the development of the mentioned anti-ageing remedy.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Comparison of Single and Combined Use of Ergothioneine, Ferulic Acid, and Glutathione as Antioxidants for the Prevention of Ultraviolet B Radiation-Induced Photoaging Damage in Human Skin Fibroblasts

Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation can cause human skin damage or skin aging and wrinkle formation through photochemical reactions. Antioxidative substances may ameliorate UV damage. In this study, the anti-photoaging activity of three antioxidants—ergothioneine, ferulic acid, and glutathione—was investigated after UVB irradiation of Hs68 human skin fibroblast cells. The cells treated with these three antioxidants appeared similar to unirradiated control cells. UVB irradiation decreased cell viability by 26% compared to that of unirradiated control cells. However, the addition of either single or combined antioxidants enhanced cell viability after UVB irradiation. These three antioxidants can inhibit the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) induced by the UVB irradiation of the Hs68 cells. Ergothioneine showed a greater inhibitory effect on matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) performance than the other two antioxidants. IL-1 alpha was not detected in the Hs68 cells after exposure to a radiation dose of 150 mJ/cm2. Ergothioneine showed better restoration of type 1 procollagen than either ferulic acid or glutathione. Based on these results, the addition of two antioxidants was expected to restore type Ι procollagen production. In summary, these results demonstrate that the three tested antioxidants protect the skin against UVB-induced damage. The single and combined use of ergothioneine, ferulic acid, and glutathione has the potential for development as anti-photoaging materials in cosmetic applications.

Ergothioneine, recent developments

There has been a recent surge of interest in the unique low molecular weight dietary thiol/thione, ergothioneine. This compound can accumulate at high levels in the body from diet and may play important physiological roles in human health and development, and possibly in prevention and treatment of disease. Blood levels of ergothioneine decline with age and onset of various diseases. Here we highlight recent advances in our knowledge of ergothioneine.

Impact of Ergothioneine, Hercynine, and Histidine on Oxidative Degradation of Hyaluronan and Wound Healing

A high-molecular weight hyaluronan is oxidatively degraded by Cu(II) ions and ascorbate—the so called Weissberger biogenic oxidative system—which is one of the most potent generators of reactive oxygen species, namely ^•OH radicals. Ergothioneine, hercynine, or histidine were loaded into chitosan/hyaluronan composite membranes to examine their effect on skin wound healing in ischemic rabbits. We also explored the ability of ergothioneine, hercynine, or histidine to inhibit hyaluronan degradation. Rotational viscometry showed that ergothioneine decreased the degree of hyaluronan radical degradation in a dose-dependent manner. While histidine was shown to be potent in scavenging ^•OH radicals, however, hercynine was ineffective. In vivo results showed that the addition of each investigated agent to chitosan/hyaluronan membranes contributed to a more potent treatment of ischemic skin wounds in rabbits compared to untreated animals and animals treated only with chitosan/hyaluronan membranes.

The biology of ergothioneine, an antioxidant nutraceutical

Ergothioneine (ERG) is an unusual thio-histidine betaine amino acid that has potent antioxidant activities. It is synthesised by a variety of microbes, especially fungi (including in mushroom fruiting bodies) and actinobacteria, but is not synthesised by plants and animals who acquire it via the soil and their diet, respectively. Animals have evolved a highly selective transporter for it, known as solute carrier family 22, member 4 (SLC22A4) in humans, signifying its importance, and ERG may even have the status of a vitamin. ERG accumulates differentially in various tissues, according to their expression of SLC22A4, favouring those such as erythrocytes that may be subject to oxidative stress. Mushroom or ERG consumption seems to provide significant prevention against oxidative stress in a large variety of systems. ERG seems to have strong cytoprotective status, and its concentration is lowered in a number of chronic inflammatory diseases. It has been passed as safe by regulatory agencies, and may have value as a nutraceutical and antioxidant more generally.

Ultraviolet A protective potential of plant extracts and phytochemicals

Chronic exposure to solar radiation is related to an increased incidence of various skin disorders, including premature skin aging and melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers. Ultraviolet (UV) photons in particular are responsible for skin damage. Solar UV photons mainly belong to UVA wavebands, however UVA radiation has been mostly ignored for a long time. At the cellular level, UVA photons mainly provoke indirect oxidative damage to biomolecules via the massive generation of unstable and highly reactive compounds. Human skin has several effective mechanisms that forestall, repair and eliminate damage caused by solar radiation. Regardless, some damage persists and can accumulate with chronic exposure. Therefore, conscious protection against solar radiation (UVB+UVA) is necessary. Besides traditional types of photoprotection such as sunscreen use, new strategies are being searched for and developed. One very popular protective strategy is the application of phytochemicals as active ingredients of photoprotection preparations instead of synthetic chemicals. Phytochemicals usually possess additional biological activities besides absorbing the energy of photons, and those properties (e.g. antioxidant, anti-inflammatory) magnify the protective potential of phytochemicals and extracts. Therefore, compounds of natural origin are in the interest of researchers as well as developers. In this review, only studies on UVA protection with well-documented experimental conditions are summarized. This article includes 17 well standardized plant extracts (Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze, Silybum marianum L. Gaertn., Punica granatum L., Polypodium aureum L., Vaccinium myrtillus L., Lonicera caerulea L., Thymus vulgaris L., Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill., Morinda citrifolia L., Aloe vera (L.) Burm.f., Oenothera paradoxa Hudziok, Galinsoga parviflora Cav., Galinsoga quadriradiata Ruiz et Pavón, Hippophae rhamnoides L., Cola acuminata Schott & Endl., Theobroma cacao L. and Amaranthus cruentus L.) and 26 phytochemicals.

The Antiaging Activity of Ergothioneine in UVA-Irradiated Human Dermal Fibroblasts via the Inhibition of the AP-1 Pathway and the Activation of Nrf2-Mediated Antioxidant Genes

UVA irradiation induced ROS-mediated photo damage to the human skin leading to coarseness, wrinkling, pigmentation, and cutaneous malignancies. We investigated the dermatoprotective efficacies of submicromolar concentrations of ergothioneine (EGT, 0.125-0.5 μM), which occurs naturally as a sulfur-containing amino acid, in the mechanisms in human skin fibroblast (HSF) cells. UVA-induced AP-1 (c-Fos and c-Jun) translocation was found to be inhibited by EGT treatments with the parallel inhibition of the collagenolytic matrix metalloproteinase- (MMP-) 1 activation and type I procollagen degradation. Moreover, EGT mitigated UVA-induced ROS generation. An increase in the amount of antioxidant genes (HO-1, NQO-1, and γ-GCLC) from EGT and were associated with upregulated Nrf2 expressions in a dose-dependent or time-dependent manner. We confirmed this from Nrf2 translocation and increased nuclear ARE promoter activity that underlie EGT dermatoprotective activities. Also, glutathione (GSH) levels (from γ-GCLC) were significantly increased. Moreover, we showed that mediated by ERK, JNK, and PKC, signaling cascades mediate Nrf2 translocation. We confirmed this phenomenon by the suppressed nuclear Nrf2 activation in cells that were treated with respective inhibitors (PD98059, SP600125, and GF109203X). However, antioxidant protein expressions were impaired in Nrf2 knockdown cells to confirm that ARE/Nrf2 pathways and the inhibition of AP-1 had significant roles in EGT-mediated protective effects. We can conclude that ergothioneine ameliorated UVA-induced skin aging and is a useful food supplement for skin care products.

Eminence of Microbial Products in Cosmetic Industry

Cosmetology is the developing branch of science, having direct impact on the society. The cosmetic sector is interested in finding novel biological alternatives which can enhance the product attributes as well as it can substitute chemical compounds. Many of the compounds are having biological origin and are acquire from bacteria, fungi, and algae. A range of biological compounds, like bio-surfactant, vitamins, antioxidants, pigments, enzymes, peptides have promising features and beneficial properties. Moreover, these products can be produced commercially with ease. The review will encompass the importance and use of microbial compounds for new cosmetic formulations as well as products associated with it.

Production of ergothioneine by Methylobacterium species

Metabolomic analysis revealed that Methylobacterium cells accumulate a large amount of ergothioneine (EGT), which is a sulfur-containing, non-proteinogenic, antioxidative amino acid derived from histidine. EGT biosynthesis and its role in methylotrophy and physiology for plant surface-symbiotic Methylobacterium species were investigated in this study. Almost all Methylobacterium type strains can synthesize EGT. We selected one of the most productive strains (M. aquaticum strain 22A isolated from a moss), and investigated the feasibility of fermentative EGT production through optimization of the culture condition. Methanol as a carbon source served as the best substrate for production. The productivity reached up to 1000 μg/100 ml culture (1200 μg/g wet weight cells, 6.3 mg/g dry weight) in 38 days. Next, we identified the genes (egtBD) responsible for EGT synthesis, and generated a deletion mutant defective in EGT production. Compared to the wild type, the mutant showed better growth on methanol and on the plant surface as well as severe susceptibility to heat treatment and irradiation of ultraviolet (UV) and sunlight. These results suggested that EGT is not involved in methylotrophy, but is involved in their phyllospheric lifestyle fitness of the genus in natural conditions.

Designing of Biodegradable and Biocompatible Release and Delivery Systems of Selected Antioxidants Used in Cosmetology

Conjugates of antioxidants p-anisic (p-AA) and vanillic (VA) acids with nontoxic, biocompatible, and biodegradedable oligo-(R,S)-(3-hydoxybutyrate) carrier were synthesized, and their structural and biological characterization was performed. The molecular structure of the bioconjugates, in which antioxidants are covalently bonded with oligo(3-hydroxybutyrate) (OHB) chains, has been proven by mass spectrometry supported by NMR. The bioconjugate hydrolytic degradation studies allowed gaining thorough insight into the hydrolysis process and confirmed the release of p-AA and VA. In vitro studies demonstrated that all of the conjugates studied were well tolerated by KB and HaCaT cell lines, as they had no marked cytotoxicity, while conjugates with a relatively short OHB carrier are optimal to support keratinocyte function. The preliminary study of the biological activity confirmed the protective effect of VA-OHB conjugates against H2O2-induced lipid peroxidation in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). It was also demonstrated that the selected bioconjugates can penetrate all layers of the skin, which shows their functionality and opens up their potential application in cosmetology.