Relevance of Natural Phenolics from Grape and Derivative Products in the Formulation of Cosmetics

Analytical method development and dermal absorption of gallic acid, a hair dye ingredient

Gallic acid (GA) is a phenolic compound known as 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoic acid. GA is used as a hair dye ingredient. It is limited to be below 4.0% in Korea. Dermal absorption rate of GA has not been reported yet. In this study, an analytical method for GA was developed and validated using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) in various matrices of swab, stratum corneum (SC), skin (dermis + epidermis), and receptor fluid (RF). HPLC analysis showed acceptable linearity (r2 = 0.999-0.9998), accuracy (90.3-112.8%), and precision (0.7-13.6%) in accordance with validation guidelines by Korea Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS). The dermal absorption rate of GA was determined using Franz diffuse cells. GA (4.0%) was applied to mini pig skin of 10 μl/cm2. After 30 min application, the GA was wiped out and receptor fluid sampling was continued until 24 h. After 24 h, skin was wiped off with swab and SC was collected using tape stripping. All samples were extracted with ethanol and analyzed using the validated method. The total dermal absorption rate of GA was determined to be 2.6 ± 1.3% (24 h).

Cosmetic Products with Potential Photoprotective Effects Based on Natural Compounds Extracted from Waste of the Winemaking Industry

Grape marc is a by-product resulting from the winemaking industry that still contains beneficial compounds that can be valorized. Thus, we report here the possibility of using polyphenolic extracts of grape marc origin to obtain sun protection creams. The extractions were performed in ethanol and acetone solutions using pomace from different grape varieties (Merlot, Bläufrankisch, Fetească Neagră, Isabella) as a raw material. The obtained extracts were analyzed in order to determine the total phenolic content, the antioxidant activity, and the sun protection factor (SPF) via Mansur spectrophotometric assay. The best results were achieved using 70% ethanol in water as a solvent. The extracts with the highest potential photoprotective effects are from the Merlot variety (SPFspectrophotometric = 7.83 ± 0.76). The sunscreens were prepared using the 70% ethanolic extract of the Merlot variety evaporated to dryness, redissolved in either distilled water or ethanol. The SPF estimated in vitro via the COLIPA method showed values of 14.07 ± 1.50 and 11.46 ± 1.32 for the aqueous and ethanolic extracts, respectively, when working with a cream to polyphenolic extract a ratio of 1/1 (w/w). At the same time, the use of aqueous polyphenolic extracts ensures the better stability of creams compared with the ethanolic ones.

Relationship between Phenolic Compounds and Antioxidant Activity of Some Moroccan Date Palm Fruit Varieties (Phoenix dactylifera L.): A Two-Year Study

In Morocco, the abundance of low-value varieties in the oases may provide an opportunity to capitalize on this richness to create new nutraceutical food products. In this context, the phenolic profile and antioxidant capacity of four Moroccan date varieties were analyzed. Our results indicate that the levels of total polyphenols, total flavonoids and total condensed tannins vary, respectively, from 91.86 to 364.35 mg GAE/100 g of dry weight (DW), 46.59 to 111.80 mg QE/100 g DW and 16.10 to 42.03 mg CE/100 g DW during the 2021 harvest season. Furthermore, during the 2022 harvest season, these contents vary, respectively, from 119.13 to 410.39 mg GAE/100 g DW, 59.30 to 110.85 mg QE/100 g DW and 21.93 to 53.95 mg CE/100 g DW. The results of the HPLC-UV-VIS analysis revealed that, in all four varieties, gallic acid was and remained one of the major compounds in the date extracts. In addition, a high antioxidant activity of date extracts was particularly observed in the three tests, namely ferric reducing power (FRAP), ferrous ion chelating capacity (FIC) and the phosphomolybdate test. This richness in phenolic compounds makes low-value dates a source of active ingredient that can replace the synthetic antioxidants used in the food and pharmaceutical industries.

Cryostructuring of Polymeric Systems: 67 Properties and Microstructure of Poly(Vinyl Alcohol) Cryogels Formed in the Presence of Phenol or Bis-Phenols Introduced into the Aqueous Polymeric Solutions Prior to Their Freeze-Thaw Processing

Poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA) physical cryogels that contained the additives of o-, m-, and p-bis-phenols or phenol were prepared, and their physico-chemical characteristics and macroporous morphology and the solute release dynamics were evaluated. These phenolic additives caused changes in the viscosity of initial PVA solutions before their freeze-thaw processing and facilitated the growth in the rigidity of the resultant cryogels, while their heat endurance decreased. The magnitude of the effects depended on the interposition of phenolic hydroxyls in the molecules of the used additives and was stipulated by their H-bonding with PVA OH-groups. Subsequent rinsing of such "primary" cryogels with pure water led to the lowering of their rigidity. The average size of macropores inside these heterophase gels also depended on the additive type. It was found also that the release of phenolic substances from the additive-containing cryogels occurred via virtually a free diffusion mechanism; therefore, drug delivery systems such as PVA cryogels loaded with either pyrocatechol, resorcinol, hydroquinone, or phenol, upon the in vitro agar diffusion tests, exhibited antibacterial activity typical of these phenols. The promising biomedical potential of the studied nanocomposite gel materials is supposed.

Bioactive Components, Applications, Extractions, and Health Benefits of Winery By-Products from a Circular Bioeconomy Perspective: A Review

Significant waste streams produced during winemaking include winery by-products such as pomace, skins, leaves, stems, lees, and seeds. These waste by-products were frequently disposed of in the past, causing resource waste and environmental issues. However, interest has risen in valorizing vineyard by-products to tap into their latent potential and turn them into high-value products. Wine industry by-products serve as a potential economic interest, given that they are typically significant natural bioactive sources that may exhibit significant biological properties related to human wellness and health. This review emphasizes the significance of winery by-product valorization as a sustainable management resource and waste management method. The novelty of this review lies in its comprehensive analysis of the potential of winery by-products as a source of bioactive compounds, extraction techniques, health benefits, and applications in various sectors. Chemical components in winery by-products include bioactive substances, antioxidants, dietary fibers, organic acids, and proteins, all of which have important industrial and therapeutic applications. The bioactives from winery by-products act as antioxidant, antidiabetic, and anticancer agents that have proven potential health-promoting effects. Wineries can switch from a linear waste management pattern to a more sustainable and practical method by adopting a circular bioeconomy strategy. Consequently, the recovery of bioactive compounds that function as antioxidants and health-promoting agents could promote various industries concomitant within the circular economy.

Encapsulation of Leptadenia pyrotechnica (Khip) Extract in Carbomer Based Emulgel for Its Enhanced Antioxidant Effects and Its In Vitro Evaluation

BACKGROUND

The use of natural products in skin care has been valued for their tremendous therapeutic benefits since ancient times. The current study was aimed at exploring the Leptadenia pyrotechnica plant extract and development of a stable emulgel loaded with the same extract to assess its cosmeceutical potentials.

METHODOLOGY

A stable emulgel loaded with methanolic plant extract along with its control gel was prepared by homogenization. The antioxidant potential of extracts prepared in different solvents (methanol MLP, ethanol ELP, n-hexane nLP, ethyl acetate EALP, and petroleum ether PLP) was determined by DPPH scavenging activity. The presence of phytochemicals was confirmed by total phenolic and flavonoid content analysis (TPC/TFC). HPLC was used for quantification of bioactive components. FTIR analysis was performed for confirmation of functional groups. SPF was calculated via spectroscopic analysis for extract, control gel, and extract loaded emulgel. Stability studies included physical evaluation, pH, conductivity, spreadability, and rheological testing of both control and test emulgels at different temperatures, i.e., 8 °C ± 1, 25 °C ± 1, 40 °C ± 1, 40 °C ± 1 with RH of 75% for a period of 90 days.

RESULTS

DPPH radical scavenging activity showed the highest antioxidant activity of 85.5% ± 2.78 for MLP. TPC and TFC were also found to be highest for the methanolic fraction, i.e., 190.98 ± 0.40 mgGAE/g and 128.28 ± 2.64 mgQE/g, respectively. The SPF of methanolic extract, placebo gel, and LPEG was 13.43 ± 0.46, 2.37 ± 0.33, and 7.28 ± 0.56, respectively. HPLC assay confirmed the presence of catechin, vanillic acid, caffeic acid, and sinapinic acid. Rheological analysis showed that formulation has pseudo-plastic flow behavior. Other stability tests also revealed that prepared emulgel is a stable one.

CONCLUSION

A stable emulgel loaded with Leptadenia pyrotechnica plant extract was successfully prepared and characterized for its cosmetic effects.

Determination of Phenolic Acids Using Ultra-High-Performance Liquid Chromatography Coupled with Triple Quadrupole (UHPLC-QqQ) in Fruiting Bodies of Sanghuangporus baumii (Pilát) L.W. Zhou and Y.C. Dai

Sanghuangporus, a medicinal mushroom, has gained significant attention due to its beneficial properties. Phenolic acids are among the major bioactive compounds in Sanghuangporus, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. To precisely quantify the phenolic acid content, we developed a method utilizing ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography with triple quadrupole (UHPLC-QqQ). This study optimized the UHPLC-QqQ conditions to simultaneously separate and detect eight phenolic acids in Sanghuangporus baumii (Pilát) L.W. Zhou and Y.C. Dai, including chlorogenic acid, p-coumaric acid, caffeic acid, cryptochlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid, ferulic acid, sinapic acid, and syringic acid. The separation process utilized a ZORBAX Eclipse Plus C18 column using 0.01% formic acid and 2 mmol/L ammonium formate in water as the aqueous phase and methanol containing 0.01% formic acid and 2 mmol/L ammonium formate as the organic phase. Calibration curves were constructed using standard solutions to quantitatively determine the phenolic acid content. The results showed significant variation in phenolic acid content among S. baumii fruiting bodies, with Protocatechuic acid, p-coumaric acid, and caffeic acid being the most abundant. This method is valuable for quantifying phenolic acid compounds under different cultivation conditions. It provides excellent sensitivity, selectivity, and reproducibility for the quantification of phenolic acids in Sanghuangporus, contributing to a better understanding of its chemical composition and potential health benefits. This approach represents a novel technical means for the simultaneous analysis of compound phenolic acids in Sanghuangporus fruiting bodies.

A Comprehensive Review of the Key Characteristics of the Genus Mentha, Natural Compounds and Biotechnological Approaches for the Production of Secondary Metabolites

Context

The genus Mentha is one of the most aromatic and well-known members of the Lamiaceae family. A wide range of bioactive compounds has been reported in mints. Regarding the high economic importance of Mentha plants due to the presence of valuable metabolites, the demand for their products is growing exponentially. Therefore, to supply such demand, new strategies should be adopted to improve the yield and medicinal quality of the products.

Evidence Acquisition

The current review is written based on scientific literature obtained from online databases, including Google Scholar, PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science regarding the characteristic features of some species of the genus Mentha, their distribution and cultivation, main uses and benefits, phytochemical composition, biotechnological approaches for the production of secondary metabolites, and strategies for enhanced production of mints secondary metabolites.

Results

In this article, we offer an overview of the key characteristics, natural compounds, biological properties, and medicinal uses of the genus Mentha. Current research describes biotechnological techniques such as in vitro culture methods for the production of high-value secondary metabolites. This review also highlights the strategies such as elicitation, genetic, and metabolic engineering to improve the secondary compounds production level in mint plants. Overall, it can be concluded that identifying the biosynthetic pathways, leading to the accumulation of pharmaceutically important bioactive compounds, has paved the way for developing highly productive mint plants with improved phytochemical profiles.

Revealing the Beauty Potential of Grape Stems: Harnessing Phenolic Compounds for Cosmetics

Grape stems have emerged as a promising natural ingredient in the cosmetics industry due to their abundance of phenolic compounds, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These compounds have shown great potential in promoting skin health, fighting signs of aging, and shielding against environmental stressors. With high concentrations of resveratrol, flavonoids, and tannins, grape stems have garnered attention from cosmetic scientists. Research has indicated that phenolic compounds extracted from grape stems possess potent antioxidant abilities, effectively combating free radicals that accelerate aging. Moreover, these compounds have demonstrated the capacity to shield the skin from UV damage, boost collagen production, and enhance skin elasticity. Cosmetic formulations incorporating grape stem extracts have displayed promising results in addressing various skin concerns, including reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots, leading to a more youthful appearance. Additionally, grape stem extracts have exhibited anti-inflammatory properties, soothing irritated skin and diminishing redness. Exploring the potential of grape stem phenolic compounds for cosmetics paves the way for sustainable and natural beauty products. By harnessing the beauty benefits of grape stems, the cosmetics industry can provide effective and eco-friendly solutions for consumers seeking natural alternatives. Ongoing research holds the promise of innovative grape stem-based formulations that could revolutionize the cosmetics market, fully unlocking the potential of these extraordinary botanical treasures.

In vitro anticancer, antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory potentials of endemic Cephalaria elazigensis var. purpurea with in silico studies

In this study, the therapeutic potential and phytochemical composition of ethanolic extract of Cephalaria elazigensis var. purpurea (CE), an endemic species, were investigated. For this purpose, the antiproliferative effect of CE on the MCF-7 human breast cancer cell line was evaluated by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay, and its effectiveness on colony formation and cell migration was analyzed with clonogenic assay and wound healing assay, respectively. In addition, the cell death detection ELISA (CDDE) assay was conducted to determine the pro-apoptotic capacity of CE. The IC50 value of the CE was determined as 324.2 ± 14.7 µg/mL. Furthermore, upon 1000 µg/mL CE treatment, there was 4.96-fold increase in the population of cells undergoing apoptosis compared to the untreated control cells. The antioxidant activity tests were performed by DPPH free radical, ABTS cation radical, ferric-ion reducing power (FRAP) and ferrous-ion chelating power (FCAP) assays. Antioxidant activity values for the DPPH, ABTS and FRAP assays were found to be 125.6 ± 6.3, 34.09 ± 0.1 and 123.4 ± 4.2 µmol TE/mg DE, respectively. We further determined the effect of CE ethanolic extract against acetylcholinesterase (AChE) and butyrylcholinesterase (BuChE) enzymes. CE plays an effective inhibitory role in AChE and BuChE (AChE: IC50: 10.54 µg/mL, BuChE: IC50: 6.84 µg/mL) respectively. Further, molecular docking stuy was conducted to understand the nature of the all compound against AChE an BChE. It is revealed that α-Linolenic acid shows lowest binding energy (-7.90 kcal/mol) towards AChE, on the other side, Linoleic acid shows good binding affinity (-7.40 kcal/mol) for BChE.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

Antioxidant Dietary Fiber Sourced from Agroindustrial Byproducts and Its Applications

Agroindustrial activities generate various residues or byproducts which are inefficiently utilized, impacting the environment and increasing production costs. These byproducts contain significant amounts of bioactive compounds, including dietary fiber with associated phenolic compounds, known as antioxidant dietary fiber (ADF). Phenolic compounds are related to the prevention of diseases related to oxidative stress, such as neurodegenerative and cardiovascular diseases. The mechanism of ADF depends on its chemical structure and the interactions between the dietary fiber and associated phenolic compounds. This work describes ADF, the main byproducts considered sources of ADF, its mechanisms of action, and its potential use in the formulation of foods destined for human consumption. ADF responds to the demand for low-cost, functional ingredients with great health benefits. A higher intake of antioxidant dietary fiber contributes to reducing the risk of diseases such as type II diabetes, colon cancer, obesity, and kidney stones, and has bile-acid retention-excretion, gastrointestinal laxative, hypoglycemic, hypocholesterolemic, prebiotic, and cardioprotective effects. ADF is a functional, sustainable, and profitable ingredient with different applications in agroindustry; its use can improve the technofunctional and nutritional properties of food, helping to close the cycle following the premise of the circular economy.

Conventional vs. Green Extraction Using Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents—Differences in the Composition of Soluble Unbound Phenolic Compounds and Antioxidant Activity

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of the use of green solvents, natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES), in comparison with conventional solvents on the extraction of free unbound phenolic compounds and the antioxidant activity of extracts of dried bilberry fruit, bilberry leaves and green tea leaves. After preparation of the extracts via ultrasound-assisted extraction using NaDES and conventional solvents (water and ethanol), spectrophotometric determination of total phenolic and flavonoid content, HPLC analysis of extracted polyphenols and antioxidant determination using FRAP, DPPH and ABTS assays were conducted. The results showed that NaDES have a great potential as agents for the extraction of phenolic compounds with potent antioxidant activity; the highest values of phenolic content and antioxidant activity were detected in the samples obtained by extraction using the NaDES combination betaine + urea. The bilberry leaves exhibited the highest flavonoid content among all extracts and turned out to be more active than bilberry fruits, to which they are often just a by-product during processing. The most active extract of all was the betaine-urea green tea leaves extract. Further research into the most active NaDES extracts should be performed.

Increasing the added value of vine-canes as a sustainable source of phenolic compounds: A review

Grapes represent one of the most produced fruit crops around the world leading to the generation of large amounts of vine-canes as a side product, with no current economically profitable application. However, vine-canes have been demonstrated to be natural sources of phenolic compounds with numerous health benefits associated, with several potential applications. Therefore, new ambitious applications focused on their re-use are needed, targeting a sustainable process that simultaneous produces functional products and mitigates the waste generation. This review gives to the readers a complete summary about the state of the art regarding the vine-canes extracts research. Vine-canes phenolic composition is addressed and related to the health benefits exhibited. This review comprises studies from the past two decades reporting the extraction processes to recover vine-cane phenolic compounds, including conventional and environmentally friendly technologies and discussing their advantages and disadvantages. The conditions that favour the extraction process for vine-cane polyphenols for each technique were also deeply explored for the first time, enabling to the reader apply only the best parameters to achieve the highest yields without huge investment in optimizations procedures. Furthermore, a correlation between the bioactive properties of the vine-cane extracts and their applications in multiple fields is also critically presented.

Sustainable Green Processing of Grape Pomace Using Micellar Extraction for the Production of Value-Added Hygiene Cosmetics

This study sought to evaluate the possibility of using grape pomace, a waste material from wine production, for the preparation of cosmetic components. Following the existing clear research trend related to improving the safety of cleansing cosmetics, an attempt was made to determine the possibility of preparing model shower gels based on grape pomace extract. A new method for producing cosmetic components named loan chemical extraction (LCE) was developed and is described for the first time in this paper. In the LCE method, an extraction medium consisting only of the components from the final product was used. Thus, there were no additional substances in the cosmetics developed, and the formulation was significantly enriched with compounds isolated from grape pomace. Samples of the model shower gels produced were evaluated in terms of their basic parameters related to functionality (e.g., foaming properties, rheological characteristics, color) and their effect on the skin. The results obtained showed that the extracts based on waste grape pomace contained a number of valuable cosmetic compounds (e.g., organic acids, phenolic compounds, amino acids and sugars), and the model products basis on them provided colorful and safe natural cosmetics.

A Potential Valorization Strategy of Wine Industry by-Products and Their Application in Cosmetics-Case Study: Grape Pomace and Grapeseed

Grape pomace and grapeseed are agro-industrial by-products, whose inadequate treatment generates socioeconomic and environmental concerns. Nevertheless, it is possible to valorize them by extracting their bioactive compounds, such as antioxidants (phenolic compounds), vitamin E and fatty acids. The bioactive compounds were extracted using solid-liquid extraction. The yields for phenolic compounds were 18.4 ± 0.4% for grape pomace, and 17.4 ± 0.4%, for grapeseed. For the oil, the yields were 13.3 ± 0.2% and 14.5 ± 0.3% for grape pomace and grapeseed. Antioxidant capacity was assessed by the assay with 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and showed that phenolic extract has higher antioxidant capacity than the oils. Grape pomace and grapeseed extracts exhibit, correspondingly, values of 90.8 ± 0.8 and 87.5 ± 0.5 of DPPH inhibition and IC₅₀ of 48.9 ± 0.5 and 55.9 ± 0.7 μg_extract·mL_DPPH⁻¹. The antimicrobial capacity was assessed by the disk diffusion test, and revealed that, phenolic extracts inhibit the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The obtained extracts were incorporated in 10 face cream formulations, with slight modifications in quantities of formulation stabilizers. Their stability was studied for 35 days, and this revealed the possibility of incorporating extracts and oils obtained from by-products as antioxidants in cosmetics, and replacing synthetic ones. As a future recommendation, microencapsulation of the extracts should be performed, in order to increase their stability.

Uncovering the effects of kaolin on balancing berry phytohormones and quality attributes of Vitis vinifera grown in warm-temperate climate regions

BACKGROUND

The application of kaolin particle film is considered a short-term strategy against several environmental stresses in areas with a Mediterranean-like climate. However, it is known that temperature fluctuations and water availability over the season can jeopardize kaolin efficiency in many Mediterranean crops. Hence, this study aims to evaluate the effects of kaolin foliar application on berry phytohormones, antioxidant defence, and oenological parameters at veraison and harvest stages of Touriga-Franca (TF) and Touriga-Nacional (TN) grapevines in two growing seasons (2017 and 2018). The 2017 growing season was considered the driest (-147.1 dryness index) and the warmest (2705 °C growing degree days) of the study.

RESULTS

In 2017, TF kaolin-treated berries showed lower salicylic acid (-26.6% compared with unsprayed vines) and abscisic acid (ABA) (-10.5%) accumulation at veraison, whereas salicylic acid increased up to 28.8% at harvest. In a less hot season, TN and TF kaolin-treated grapevines showed a twofold in ABA content and a threefold increase in the indole-3-acetic acid content at veraison and lower ABA levels (83.8%) compared with unsprayed vines at harvest. Treated berries showed a decreased sugar content, without compromising malic and tartaric acid levels, and reactive oxygen species accumulation throughout berry ripening.

CONCLUSION

The results suggest kaolin exerts a delaying effect in triggering ripening-related processes under severe summer stress conditions. Treated berries responded with improved antioxidant defence and phytohormone balance, showing significant interactions between kaolin treatment, variety, and developmental stage in both assessed years. © 2021 Society of Chemical Industry.

In Vitro Evaluation of Biological Activities of Canes and Pomace Extracts from Several Varieties of Vitis vinifera L. for Inclusion in Freeze-Drying Mouthwashes

In this study, the biological activities of four extracts from Vitis vinifera by-products: two pomace extracts, white (WPE) and red (RPE), a canes extract (CE), and their combination (CoE), were evaluated, to be included in freeze-drying mouthwashes formulations. The cytocompatibility and anticancerous potential of the four extracts were tested on three cancerous cell lines, as well as the cytoprotective activity against nicotine-induced cytotoxicity and the antioxidant potential determined on a human gingival fibroblasts (HGF) cell line. Additionally, the anti-inflammatory activity and the antimicrobial activity against several microorganisms from the oral microbiome were tested. Freeze-dried mouthwashes with CoE were prepared and characterized, both as lyophilizates and after reconstitution. The four tested extracts showed the highest cytotoxicity on MDA-kb2 cell line. The antioxidant potential was demonstrated for WPE, RPE, CE, and CoE, both in non-stimulated and H₂O₂ stimulated conditions. The four extracts reduced the levels of proinflammatory cytokines (IL-6, IL-8, and IL-1β) in a dose-dependent manner, confirming their anti-inflammatory activity. The antimicrobial activity of tested extracts was shown against pathogenic bacteria from the oral microbiome. Mouthwashes of CoE with poloxamer-407, xylitol, and different ratios of mannitol were prepared by freeze-drying leading to porous formulations with interesting mechanical properties and reconstitution times.

The Anti-Acne Potential and Chemical Composition of Two Cultivated Cotoneaster Species

In light of current knowledge on the role of reactive oxygen species and other oxidants in skin diseases, it is clear that oxidative stress facilitates inflammation and is an important factor involved in skin diseases, i.e., acne. Taking into consideration the fact that some Cotoneaster plants are valuable curatives in skin diseases in traditional Asian medicine, we assumed that thus far untested species C. hsingshangensis and C. hissaricus may be a source of substances used in skin diseases. The aim of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and cytotoxic activities of their various extracts. LC-MS analysis revealed the presence of 47 compounds (flavonoids, phenolic acids, coumarins, sphingolipids, carbohydrates), while GC-MS procedure allowed for the identification of 42 constituents (sugar derivatives, phytosterols, fatty acids, and their esters). The diethyl ether fraction of C. hsingshangensis (CHs-2) exhibited great ability to scavenge free radicals and good capacity to inhibit cyclooxygenase-1, cyclooxygenase-2, lipoxygenase, and hyaluronidase. Moreover, it had the most promising power against microaerobic Gram-positive strains, and importantly, it was non-toxic toward normal skin fibroblasts. Taking into account the value of the calculated therapeutic index (>10), it is worth noting that CHs-2 can be subjected to in vivo study and constitutes a promising anti-acne agent.

Alternative Extraction and Downstream Purification Processes for Anthocyanins

Anthocyanins are natural pigments displaying different attractive colors ranging from red, violet, to blue. These pigments present health benefits that increased their use in food, nutraceuticals, and the cosmetic industry. However, anthocyanins are mainly extracted through conventional methods that are time-consuming and involve the use of organic solvents. Moreover, the chemical diversity of the obtained complex extracts make the downstream purification step challenging. Therefore, the growing demand of these high-value pigments has stimulated the interest in designing new, safe, cost-effective, and tunable strategies for their extraction and purification. The current review focuses on the potential application of compressed fluid-based (such as subcritical and supercritical fluid extraction and pressurized liquid extraction) and deep eutectic solvents-based extraction methods for the recovery of anthocyanins. In addition, an updated review of the application of counter-current chromatography for anthocyanins purification is provided as a faster and cost-effective alternative to preparative-scale HPLC.

Potential Application of Algae in Biodegradation of Phenol: A Review and Bibliometric Study

One of the most severe environmental issues affecting the sustainable growth of human society is water pollution. Phenolic compounds are toxic, hazardous and carcinogenic to humans and animals even at low concentrations. Thus, it is compulsory to remove the compounds from polluted wastewater before being discharged into the ecosystem. Biotechnology has been coping with environmental problems using a broad spectrum of microorganisms and biocatalysts to establish innovative techniques for biodegradation. Biological treatment is preferable as it is cost-effective in removing organic pollutants, including phenol. The advantages and the enzymes involved in the metabolic degradation of phenol render the efficiency of microalgae in the degradation process. The focus of this review is to explore the trends in publication (within the year of 2000-2020) through bibliometric analysis and the mechanisms involved in algae phenol degradation. Current studies and publications on the use of algae in bioremediation have been observed to expand due to environmental problems and the versatility of microalgae. VOSviewer and SciMAT software were used in this review to further analyse the links and interaction of the selected keywords. It was noted that publication is advancing, with China, Spain and the United States dominating the studies with total publications of 36, 28 and 22, respectively. Hence, this review will provide an insight into the trends and potential use of algae in degradation.

Natural and Synthetic Flavylium-Based Dyes: The Chemistry Behind the Color

Flavylium compounds are a well-known family of pigments because they are prevalent in the plant kingdom, contributing to colors over a wide range from shades of yellow-red to blue in fruits, flowers, leaves, and other plant parts. Flavylium compounds include a large variety of natural compound classes, namely, anthocyanins, 3-deoxyanthocyanidins, auronidins, and their respective aglycones as well as anthocyanin-derived pigments (e.g., pyranoanthocyanins, anthocyanin-flavan-3-ol dimers). During the past few decades, there has been increasing interest among chemists in synthesizing different flavylium compounds that mimic natural structures but with different substitution patterns that present a variety of spectroscopic characteristics in view of their applications in different industrial fields. This Review provides an overview of the chemistry of flavylium-based compounds, in particular, the synthetic and enzymatic approaches and mechanisms reported in the literature for obtaining different classes of pigments, their physical-chemical properties in relation to their pH-dependent equilibria network, and their chemical and enzymatic degradation. The development of flavylium-based systems is also described throughout this Review for emergent applications to explore some of the physical-chemical properties of the multistate of species generated by these compounds.

Valorization of Wine-Making By-Products’ Extracts in Cosmetics

The increased demand for conscious, sustainable and beneficial products by the consumers has pushed researchers from both industries and universities worldwide to search for smart strategies capable of reducing the environmental footprint, especially the ones connected with industrial wastes. Among various by-products, generally considered as waste, those obtained by winemaking industries have attracted the attention of a wide variety of companies, other than the vineries. In particular, grape pomaces are considered of interest due to their high content in bioactive molecules, especially phenolic compounds. The latter can be recovered from grape pomace and used as active ingredients in easily marketable cosmetic products. Indeed, phenolic compounds are well known for their remarkable beneficial properties at the skin level, such as antioxidant, antiaging, anti-hyperpigmentation and photoprotective effects. The exploitation of the bioactives contained in grape pomaces to obtain high value cosmetics may support the growing of innovative start-ups and expand the value chain of grapes. This review aims to describe the strategies for recovery of polyphenols from grape pomace, to highlight the beneficial potential of these extracts, both in vitro and in vivo, and their potential utilization as active ingredients in cosmetic products.

Natural Antioxidants from Plant Extracts in Skincare Cosmetics: Recent Applications, Challenges and Perspectives

In recent years, interest in the health effects of natural antioxidants has increased due to their safety and applicability in cosmetic formulation. Nevertheless, efficacy of natural antioxidants in vivo is less documented than their prooxidant properties in vivo. Plant extracts rich in vitamins, flavonoids, and phenolic compounds can induce oxidative damage by reacting with various biomolecules while also providing antioxidant properties. Because the biological activities of natural antioxidants differ, their effectiveness for slowing the aging process remains unclear. This review article focuses on the use of natural antioxidants in skincare and the possible mechanisms underlying their desired effect, along with recent applications in skincare formulation and their limitations.

Natural Plant Extracts and Microbial Antagonists to Control Fungal Pathogens and Improve the Productivity of Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo L.) In Vitro and in Greenhouse

Background: Natural plant extracts and microbial antagonists have the potential for use in increasing the fungal resistance and productivity of horticulture plants. Methods: The purpose of this study was to evaluate the ability of both natural plant extracts and microbial antagonists as a biotical control of some fungal pathogens, i.e., Fusarium ssp., Exserohilum ssp. and Nigrospora ssp., along with improving the growth and productivity performance of zucchini under greenhouse conditions. Eucalyptus camaldulensis leaf extract (LE), Citrus sinensis LE, Ficus benghalensis fruit extract (FE), and two microbial antagonists Pseudomonas fluorescens (accession no. MW647093) and Trichoderma viride (accession no. MW647090) were tested under in vitro and in vivo conditions. Through morphological characteristics and the internal transcribed spacer (ITS) region, Fusarium solani (accession no. MW947256), F. oxysporum (accession no. MW947254), Exserohilum rostratum (accession no. MW947255), and Nigrospora lacticolonia (accession no. MW947253) were identified. HPLC analysis was used for the identification of phenolic compounds (PCs) and flavonoid compounds (FCs) in the extracts. Results: The highest inhibition percentage of fungal growth (IPFG) against F. oxysporum was obtained with P. fluorescens, T. viride, and E. camaldulensis LE (4000 mg/L); F. solani with P. fluorescens, T. viride, and C. sinensis LE (4000 mg/L); Exserohilum rostratum with P. fluorescens, Ficus benghalensis FE (4000 mg/L) and E. camaldulensis LE (4000 mg/L), and N. lacticolonia with P. fluorescens. Using HPLC analysis, the abundant PCs in E. camaldulensis LE were pyrogallol, and caffeic acid, those in C. sinensis LE were syringic acid and ferulic acid, and those in F. benghalensis FE were gallic acid and syringic acid. In addition, the abundant FCs in E. camaldulensis LE were kaempferol, and naringin, those in C. sinensis LE were hesperidin and quercetin, and those in F. benghalensis FE were kaempferol and quercetin. Under greenhouse experiments, T. viride and E. camaldulensis LE (4000 mg/L) followed by P. fluorescens + T. viride treatments gave the best results of zucchini plants in terms of leaf area, fruits number per plant, yield per plant, and total yield (marketable and non-marketable). Conclusions: Plant extracts and bioagents can be used to control some zucchini fungal pathogens and increase the productivity performance of zucchini plants.

Antioxidant/Pro-Oxidant Actions of Polyphenols From Grapevine and Wine By-Products-Base for Complementary Therapy in Ischemic Heart Diseases

Grape pomace and grape seeds, by-products of the wine industry, and grapevine cane resulting from grapevine pruning are cheap matrices containing important amounts of polyphenols. While there is a continuous need of introducing new ways of these by-products valorization, we propose their use as a source of bioactive polyphenols for complementary therapy in ischemic heart diseases. As oxidative stress plays an important role in these diseases, by their antioxidant/pro-oxidant properties, these compounds, mainly flavan-3-ols, procyanidins, and resveratrol may counteract the damage of the oxidative stress. For instance, to some extent, the grape seed extract, considered as an antioxidant nutritive supplement, may have pro-oxidant activity as well, depending on dose, duration of administration, and other dietary components. In vitro studies confirm that the antioxidant activity of this extract might be mediated by pro-oxidant o-quinones and oxidation products of the polyphenols from grape and winery byproducts, indicating that quinones, as oxidation products, are involved in the modulation of the antioxidant/pro-oxidant balance at the cellular level in the case of catechin-type compounds, in the absence or presence of oxidative stress inducers. In vivo, studies indicate that a grape pomace-rich diet results in a significant increase of the total antioxidant status in the plasma, liver, spleen, and kidneys. Also, the administration of grape pomace shows antioxidant activity with positive effects on health. In this context, the present review aims to present the most recent research focused on the antioxidant/pro-oxidant actions of the bioactive polyphenols from grapevine and wine byproducts, in conditions of ischemic heart diseases as assessed in vitro or in vivo.

Development, Characterization, and Clinical Investigation of a New Topical Emulsion System Containing a Castanea sativa Spiny Burs Active Extract

The study focused on the development and characterization of an O/W emulsion for skincare containing Castanea sativa spiny burs extract (CSE) as functional agent. The emulsion was stable and had suitable physicochemical and technological properties for dermal application and CSE showed no cytotoxicity in spontaneously immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) at active concentrations. A single-blind, placebo-controlled, monocentric study was designed to evaluate the skin tolerability and the skin performance of the CSE-loaded emulsion on healthy human volunteers. An improvement was observed in skin biomechanical properties such as hydration, skin elasticity and a reduction in the periorbital wrinkles in 30 days without altering the skin barrier function, sebum, pH, and erythema values. A significant skin moisturizing effect was detected while the skin barrier function was preserved. The selected natural ingredient combined with the designed formulation and the optimized preparation method has led to a final product that satisfies the physico-chemical and technological requirements underlying the safety of use and the formulative stability over time. With no negative skin reactions and highly significant effects on skin elasticity, wrinkles, and moisturization, the CSE-based emulsion achieved very satisfying outcomes representing a promising functional formulation for skin care.

Dermal Drug Delivery of Phytochemicals with Phenolic Structure via Lipid-Based Nanotechnologies

Phenolic compounds are a large, heterogeneous group of secondary metabolites found in various plants and herbal substances. From the perspective of dermatology, the most important benefits for human health are their pharmacological effects on oxidation processes, inflammation, vascular pathology, immune response, precancerous and oncological lesions or formations, and microbial growth. Because the nature of phenolic compounds is designed to fit the phytochemical needs of plants and not the biopharmaceutical requirements for a specific route of delivery (dermal or other), their utilization in cutaneous formulations sets challenges to drug development. These are encountered often due to insufficient water solubility, high molecular weight and low permeation and/or high reactivity (inherent for the set of representatives) and subsequent chemical/photochemical instability and ionizability. The inclusion of phenolic phytochemicals in lipid-based nanocarriers (such as nanoemulsions, liposomes and solid lipid nanoparticles) is so far recognized as a strategic physico-chemical approach to improve their in situ stability and introduction to the skin barriers, with a view to enhance bioavailability and therapeutic potency. This current review is focused on recent advances and achievements in this area.

Determination of Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Effects of Functional Cosmetic Creams Available on the Thailand Market

Recently, the global trend toward the use of natural extracts and antioxidant agents in the cosmetic cream industry to produce whitening effects has been increasing. This has also been a persistent trend in Thailand. In this study, samples of commercial cosmetic creams on the Thai market were assessed for a functional evaluation of their antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibitory effects, and phenolic contents. Samples were extracted using hot water and sonication extraction method to obtain the functional cream extracts. Total phenolic contents in all samples were within the range of 0.46-47.92 mg GAE/30 g cream. Antioxidant activities of the cream extracts were within the range of 3.61-43.98 mg Trolox equivalent/30 g cream, while tyrosinase inhibition activities were within the range of 2.58-97.94% of inhibition. With regard to the relationship between the total phenolic content and the antioxidant activity of the cosmetic creams, Pearson's correlation coefficient revealed a moderately positive relationship with an r value of 0.6108. Furthermore, the relationship between the antioxidant activity and the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the cosmetic creams was highly positive with an r value of 0.7238. Overall, this study demonstrated that the total phenolic contents in the functional cosmetic creams could play a role in antioxidant activity and anti-tyrosinase activities. The findings indicate how the whitening and antioxidant effects of cosmetic creams could be maintained after the products have been formulated, as this concern can affect the consumer's decision when purchasing cosmetic products.

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

Sensitive and selective determination of triclosan using visual spectroscopy

Triclosan is a commonly used biocide effective against bacterial and fungal infections. However, its overuse in pharmaceutical and personal care products has resulted in its abundance in the natural environment. The detection of triclosan by visual spectroscopy can be carried out using the azo-coupling reaction of diazonium complexes. However, the reaction is also common to other phenolic compounds and aromatic amines, posing significant challenge. In this work, we investigate the azo-coupling reaction of triclosan and several commonly occurring analogous compounds to develop an improved spectroscopic method for the selective determination of triclosan without interference. We find that the azo-coupling reaction between the diazotized derivative and the phenolic compounds is highly dependent on the pH of the reaction media. At pH 7.2, the absorbance of the azo dye product of triclosan shows a peak at 452 nm which has minimal interference from other phenolic azo-dye products with the exception of naphthol. Naphthol shows an interference corresponding to 58% of the analytical signal of equimolar triclosan concentration. To overcome this, we develop an analytical model for the simultaneous determination of triclosan and naphthol from mixed solutions of the compounds. A linear calibration plot from 1.7 to 34 µM was obtained for both triclosan and naphthol with limit-of-detection (LOD) of 0.62 µM and 1.03 µM respectively. The developed protocol was tested for the analysis of water samples collected from various environmental sources spiked with different concentrations of triclosan and naphthol. The samples were enriched by solid-phase-extraction which allowed a 50-fold enhancement in detection of triclosan. The average relative recovery of triclosan in real samples was found to be 98.6% .

Phenolic Composition and Antioxidant Activity of Plants Belonging to the Cephalaria (Caprifoliaceae) Genus

The genus Cephalaria, belonging to the Caprifoliaceae family, is a rich source of interesting secondary metabolites, including mainly saponins which display a variety of biological activities, such as immunomodulatory, antimicrobial and hemolytic effects. Besides these compounds, flavonoids and phenolic acids were identified in Cephalaria species. Cephalaria is employed in traditional medicine e.g., to cure cardiac and lung diseases, rheumatism, and regulate menstruation. In this review we focus on the phenolic compound composition and antioxidative activity of Cephalaria species. The antioxidant effect can be explained by flavonoids present in all parts of these plants. However, future efforts should concentrate more on in vitro and in vivo studies and also on clinical trials in order to confirm the possibility of using these plants as natural antioxidants for the pharmacology, food or cosmetic industries.

A comprehensive review on phenolic compounds from edible mushrooms: Occurrence, biological activity, application and future prospective

Phenolic compounds are minor metabolites usually present in mushroom species. Because of their potential advantages for human health, such as antioxidant and other biological activities, these bioactive components have been gaining more interest as functional foods, nutraceutical agents for providing better health conditions. This review aims to comprehensively discuss the recent advances in mushroom phenolic compounds, including new sources, structural characteristics, biological activities, potential uses and its industrial applications as well as the future perspectives. Phenolic acids as well as flavonoids are considered the most common phenolics occurring in mushroom species. These are responsible for its bioactivities, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antitumor, antihyperglycaemic, antiosteoporotic, anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial activities. Several edible mushroom species with good phenolic content and show higher biological activity were highlighted, in a way for its futuristic applications. Trends on mushroom research highlighting new research areas, such as nanoformulation were discussed. Furthermore, the use of phenolic compounds as nutraceutical and cosmeceutical agents as well as the future perspectives and recommendations were made.

Medical Plaster Enhancement by Coating with Cistus L. Extracts within a Chitosan Matrix: From Natural Complexity to Health Care Simplicity

Our investigation was focused on the preparation and characterization of novel plasters based on Carboxymethyl Chitosan derivative (CMC), to be used for the treatment of radiation dermatitis with Biologic Active Compounds (BACs) in a moist wound-healing environment. After performing the extraction and characterization of BACs from Cistus L., we optimized the BACs/CMC solution for subsequent plaster preparation. Then, plasters were prepared by dip-coating with a different number of layers, and we characterized them by Environmental Scanning Electron Microscopy (ESEM), Contact Angle (CA) and release tests in water for 24 h. Taking into account the flexibility of the plasters and the amount of released BACs after 24 h, the sample obtained after two dip-coating steps (2La) appeared promising in regard to comfortable mechanical properties and active principles administration. The 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) test performed on keratinocytes cultured in standard medium shows that cells treated with released extract from 2La start to proliferate, extend cellular viability and form colonies typical for epidermal cells.

Technological and nutritional aspects of milk chocolate enriched with grape pomace products

The French paradox is the observation of low heart disease death rates despite high intake of cholesterol and saturated fat, possibly related to the consumption of red wine containing polyphenols. Those are also found in pomace and affect health as radical catchers inhibiting cancer, inflammations and arteriosclerosis. European cocoa regulation allows incorporating up to 40% of added foodstuffs into chocolate, so grape pomace can be used. Cocoa itself is known as a very good source of phenolic compounds, and consequently dark chocolate is considered to have similar health benefits as red wine. Milk chocolates contain only little fat-free cocoa dry matter; therefore, grape pomace is considered most beneficial here. Entire pomace or flour from seeds have been tested to evaluate technical aspects as well as the impact on chocolate properties like particle size distribution, flow properties, total phenol content, antioxidative capacity and sensory perception. Initial trials revealed that additional drying and also pre-grinding was necessary before pomace can be used as an ingredient. Various samples were produced by the coarse conching process, which uses a ball mill for size reduction below 30 µm. A difficulty arises when some tough particles slip through without being properly ground; D99-values can be used to better control this issue. Grape pomace contains almost as many polyphenols as cocoa liquor, so it can serve as a substitute. Its content and thus quality depends on gentle drying. Finally, adding, e.g., just 3.5% was able to significantly increase the polyphenol contents of milk chocolate.

Safety and Photoprotective Efficacy of a Sunscreen System Based on Grape Pomace (Vitis vinifera L.) Phenolics from Winemaking

In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from Vitis vinifera L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% w/w + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.

Phenolic compounds: current industrial applications, limitations and future challenges

Phenolic compounds are natural bioactive molecules found mainly in plant tissues that have shown interesting bioactivities, such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antiproliferative activities, among others, which has led to great interest in their use by several industries. However, despite the large number of scientific studies on this topic, some issues still need to be studied and solved, such as the understanding of the main actions of these compounds in organisms. Besides their large potential applicability in industry, phenolic compounds still face some issues making it necessary to develop strategies to improve bioavailability, sustainable technologies of extraction and refinement, and stability procedures to increase the range of applicability. This review focuses on the most recent advances in the applications of phenolic compounds in different technological and medicinal areas. In addition, techniques to improve their sustainable resourcing, stability and bioavailability will be presented and discussed.

Fruit Extract Mediated Green Synthesis of Metallic Nanoparticles: A New Avenue in Pomology Applications

Fruit extracts have natural bioactive molecules that are known to possess significant therapeutic potential. Traditionally, metallic nanoparticles were synthesized via chemical methods, in which the chemical act as the reducing agent. Later, these traditional metallic nanoparticles emerged as the biological risk, which prompted researchers to explore an eco-friendly approach. There are different eco-friendly methods employed for synthesizing these metallic nanoparticles via the usage of microbes and plants, primarily via fruit extract. These explorations have paved the way for using fruit extracts for developing nanoparticles, as they eliminate the usage of reducing and stabilizing agents. Metallic nanoparticles have gained significant attention, and are used for diverse biological applications. The present review discusses the potential activities of phytochemicals, and it intends to summarize the different metallic nanoparticles synthesized using fruit extracts and their associated pharmacological activities like anti-cancerous, antimicrobial, antioxidant and catalytic efficiency.

Phytochemical Profiles, Antioxidant and Antibacterial Activities of Grape (Vitis vinifera L.) Seeds and Skin from Organic and Conventional Vineyards

The therapeutic benefits of extracts obtained from different red grape fractions were thoroughly studied, however, data regarding the comparison of phytochemical extracts prepared from the same varieties coming from organic versus conventional management systems are rather lacking. The present study aimed at comparing some of the phytochemical characteristics and antimicrobial activity of hydroalcoholic (50% v/v) extracts obtained from four varieties of red grapes cultivated respectively in organic and conventional vineyards. Total flavonoid content, total phenolic compounds, and antioxidant activity were determined by molecular absorption spectroscopy. Antimicrobial activity of the studied extracts was evaluated against common bacterial strains isolated from different habitats according to specific lab procedures. The analyses were performed in solid broths by applying the disk diffusion method, which allowed for the simultaneous determination of the spectrum of the sensitivity of the tested bacteria as well as the values of the minimum inhibition concentration (MIC). It was found that favorable antagonistic activities against the tested bacteria strains were exhibited by the hydroalcoholic extracts from the seeds of the organic varieties, respectively the skin of the conventional varieties.

Revalorization of bioactive compounds from tropical fruit by-products and industrial applications by means of sustainable approaches

Tropical fruits trade is on the rise due to the claimed health benefits related with their consumption. Functional activities are exerted by the presence of bioactive compounds which could be used for prevention or amelioration diseases. However, the occurrence of bioactive compounds is found mainly in non-edible fraction of tropical fruits which are usually discarded. Therefore, the revalorization of tropical fruits by-products as source of functional compounds is on the cutting-edge research. The implementation of this challenge not only allows the enhancement of the tropical fruits by-products management, but also the production of value-added products. This review compiles the latest comprehensive information about the revalorization of bioactive compounds from tropical fruits by-products. A revision of the sustainable green technologies used for the isolation of valuable compounds has been carried out as well as the current food, functional, cosmeceutical and bioenergetics industrial applications of bioactive compounds extracted from tropical fruits by-products.

Assessment of Cosmeceutical Potentials of Selected Mushroom Fruitbody Extracts Through Evaluation of Antioxidant, Anti-Hyaluronidase and Anti-Tyrosinase Activity

Cosmeceutical formulations containing naturally derived active ingredients are currently preferred by consumers worldwide. Mushrooms are one of the potential sources for cosmeceutical ingredients but relevant research is still lacking. In this study, hot- and cold-water extractions were performed on four locally-cultivated mushrooms—Pleurotus ostreatus, Ganoderma lucidum, Auricularia polytricha and Schizophyllum commune—with the aim to assess the cosmeceutical potential of these mushroom fruitbody extracts. Total phenolics, polysaccharide and glucan content were determined. Antioxidant property of the mushroom extracts was assessed by determining the DPPH radical scavenging, ferric-reducing (FRAP) and superoxide anion (SOA) scavenging activity. Anti-hyaluronidase activity was used as an indicator for the anti-aging and anti-inflammatory property, while anti-tyrosinase activity was evaluated to assess the anti-pigmentation or whitening property of these extracts. Our results showed that total polysaccharide content of P. ostreatus extracts was the highest (235.8–253.6 mg GE/g extract), while extracts from G. lucidum contained the lowest glucan (10.12–10.67%). Cold-water extract from S. commune exhibited substantial tyrosinase inhibition activity (98.15%) and SOA scavenging activity (94.82%). The greatest hyaluronidase activity was exhibited by G. lucidum hot-water extract, with the value of 72.78%. The findings from the correlation analyses suggest that the cosmeceutical properties of these mushrooms can be attributed mainly to the combination of different types of compound such as polysaccharides and phenolics. Overall, cold-water extract of S. commune and hot-water extract of G. lucidum showed the best results and may be further investigated.

From waste to health: sustainable exploitation of grape pomace seed extract to manufacture antioxidant, regenerative and prebiotic nanovesicles within circular economy

Pomace seed extract loaded vesicles were prepared as promising technological and green solution to exploit agri-food wastes and by-products, and develop high value-added products for human health. An antioxidant extract rich in bioactive compounds (epicatechins, catechin, gallic acid, quercetin and procynidins) was obtained from the seeds isolated from the pomace of Cannonau red grape cultivar. The extract was incorporated into phospholipid vesicles ad hoc formulated for intestinal delivery, by combining them, for the first time, whit a maltodextrin (Glucidex). Glucidex-transfersomes, glucidex-hyalurosomes and glucidex-hyalutransferomes were prepared, characterized and tested. Glucidex-liposomes were used as reference. All vesicles were small in size (~ 150 nm), homogeneously dispersed and negatively charged. Glucidex-transfersomes and especially glucidex-hyalutransfersomes disclosed an unexpected resistance to acidic pH and high ionic strength, as they maintained their physico-chemical properties (size and size distribution) after dilution at pH 1.2 simulating the harsh gastric conditions. Vesicles were highly biocompatible and able to counteract the oxidative damages induced in Caco-2 cells by using hydrogen peroxide. Moreover, they promoted the formation of Lactobacillus reuteri biofilm acting as prebiotic formulation. Overall results suggest the potential of glucidex-hyalutransfersomes as food supplements for the treatment of intestinal disorders.

Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use

Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)—a less investigated representative of the genus—were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of water:polyethylene glycol extracts (1:1, 4:1, 6:1 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) and assayed for their biological activities. The study led to the identification of 11 metabolites from different natural product classes with the highest share corresponding to 5-caffeoylquinic acid, axillarin, coumaroylquinic acid isomers and 3-caffeoylquinic acid. The highest antiradical capacity in DPPH and ABTS scavenging assays was shown for HG 4:1 of AB and AM extracts. HG 1:1 extracts from both species inhibited monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, whereas AB HG 4:1 extract showed significant monophenolase inhibition. The highest sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for AM HG 4:1 extract, equal to 14.04 ± 0.17. The AB extracts were cytotoxic for both human keratinocytes HaCaT and A375 melanoma, however HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts were more cytotoxic for cancer than for noncancerous cells. In conclusion, AB HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts display significant potential as active cosmetic ingredients.

Transcriptional and epigenetic effects of Vitis vinifera L. leaf extract on UV-stressed human dermal fibroblasts

Adverse environmental conditions such as UV radiation induce oxidative and aging events leading to severe damage to human skin cells. Natural products such as plant extracts have been implicated in the skin anti-oxidant and anti-aging cellular protection against environmental stress. Moreover, environmental factors have been shown to impact chromatin structure leading to altered gene expression programs with profound changes in cellular functions. In this study, we assessed the in vitro effect of a leaf extract from Vitis vinifera L. on UV-stressed primary human dermal fibroblasts, focusing on gene expression and DNA methylation as an epigenetic factor. Expression analysis of two genes known to be implicated in skin anti-aging, SIRT1and HSP4, demonstrated significant induction in the presence of the extract under normal or UVA conditions. In addition, DNA methylation profiling of SIRT1 and HSP47 promoters showed that the V. vinifera L. extract induced changes in the DNA methylation pattern of both genes that may be associated with SIRT1 and HSP47 gene expression. Our study shows for the first time transcriptional and DNA methylation alterations on human skin fibroblasts exposed to UV stress and suggest a protective effect of a V. vinifera extract possibly through transcriptional regulation of critical skin anti-aging genes.