What Makes Indian Women Look Older—An Exploratory Study on Facial Skin Features

Predictors of female age, health and attractiveness perception from skin feature analysis of digital portraits in five ethnic groups

OBJECTIVE

Research indicates the impact of skin colour, tone evenness and surface topography on ratings of age, health and attractiveness in women. In addition to subjective assessments, these effects have been quantified with objective measures derived from skin image analysis. Signs of skin ageing may manifest differently across ethnic groups. However, comparisons have been limited to research with two ethnic groups, preventing conclusions about an ethnicity-specific ranking of skin ageing signs.

METHODS

We report results from a multi-ethnic and multi-centre study in which faces of women (n = 180; aged 20-69 years) from five ethnic groups were imaged. Facial images were rated for age, health and attractiveness by members of the same ethnic group (each n = 120). Digital image analysis was used to quantify skin colour, gloss, tone evenness and wrinkling/sagging. We assessed associations between face ratings and skin image measurements in the total sample (i.e. all ethnic groups) and separately by ethnicity.

RESULTS

Skin image analysis revealed differences between ethnic groups, including skin colour, gloss, tone evenness, wrinkling and sagging. Differences in the relative predictive utility of individual skin features in accounting for ratings of age, health and attractiveness also were observed between ethnic groups. Facial wrinkling and sagging were the best predictors of face ratings in each ethnic group, with some differences in the type (or predictive magnitude) of skin features.

CONCLUSION

The current findings corroborate previous reports of differences between ethnic groups in female facial skin and indicate differential effects of skin features on ratings of age, health and attractiveness, within and between ethnic groups. Facial wrinkling and sagging were the best predictors of age and attractiveness ratings, and skin tone evenness and gloss had an additional role in ratings of health.

Evaluating the respective weights of some facial signs on perceived ages in differently aged women of five ethnic origins

BACKGROUND

New gratification assessments, after skincare routines or makeup products, could benefit from innovative methods that could predict the culturally based perceptions of age.

AIMS

To determine the facial signs that most influence the perception of age in women of five different ethnic ancestries, assessed by the same ethnical naïve panel.

PATIENTS/METHODS

The faces of 1351 women, differently aged (18-80 years), from five countries (China, France, India, Japan, and South Africa) were photographed under the same standardized conditions in the five countries. Fourteen to 24 facial signs (grouped under five clusters, ie, Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, Pigmentation disorders, Vascular disorders, and Cheeks skin pores) were focused, and their respective severities were graded using referential Skin Aging Atlases by the same panel of 15 experts and dermatologists. Five naïve panels, all comprising 100 local women, allowed to collect the perceived age, assessed from blind-coded full-face photographs.

RESULTS

Although perceived ages and real ages were found highly correlated, their differences vary according to ethnicities, particularly among a large part of Indian and South African women, judged older by about 5 and 7 years, respectively. Results show that the clusters of Wrinkles/Texture and Ptosis/Sagging are predominant factors taken into account in almost all ethnicities, albeit at various extents, reaching almost 100% in French women. Pigmentation disorders appear important secondary factors in Japanese, South African, and Indian women. Vascular disorders, of a difficult grading in darker skin tones, were found of some impact in Japanese and Chinese women. Cheek skin pores were of minor or nil weight in the attribution of age, at the exception of South African women. Regarding facial areas which drive aging perception, it seems the upper-half face has prevalence for Chinese and Japanese women whereas the lower-half face has major importance for South African women.

CONCLUSION

Facial traits are differently perceived as signs of aging according to un-separable ethnic ancestries and cultural factors.

Clinical evidences of benefits from an advanced skin care routine in comparison with a simple routine

BACKGROUND

The use of a skin care routine is commonly promoted by the cosmetic industry, yet there is a lack of clinical evidence to support this practice over the use of a single skin care product.

AIMS

In the present study, we aimed at showing the clinical benefits of using a comprehensive skin care routine vs a simple one.

METHODS

Skin micro-/macro-topographic, skin color, and superficial/deep hydration were collected at baseline and after 4 weeks of use, on forty-nine women randomly allocated to two groups. The first one followed the use of an advanced routine (AR: Cleanser/Toner/Eye cream/Serum/Day & Night cream), while the other group was instructed to use a simple routine (SR: Cleanser & Day cream).

RESULTS

Hemoglobin heterogeneity was found to be significantly reduced only in the SR group. However, the AR outperformed the SR when it comes to improving superficial hydration, deep hydration, skin roughness, mean pore area, melanin heterogeneity, and crow's feet wrinkle depth. A significant increase in skin brightness from baseline was only recorded when using the AR while both routines significantly improved the nasolabial wrinkles.

CONCLUSION

These findings advocate for using a relevant daily routine as it demonstrates the visible skin benefits over a short period, while driving the creation of habits for the prevention of aging signs.

DermaTOP Blue and Antera 3D as methods to assess cosmetic solutions targeting eyelid sagging

BACKGROUND

As the eye contour ages, the skin on the lid becomes lax often causing a voluminous protrusion where the superior palpebral sulcus begins to sag onto the upper eyelid. This sagging feature may present a novel anti-ageing target for cosmetic products when treating the eye area. A quantitative method to evaluate the volume of this sagging feature has not been previously established. We investigate the use of the DermaTOP fringe projector and Antera 3D Camera to this end.

METHODS

Eyelid topographic measurements were collected on 20 female volunteers aged 50-75 years with the DermaTOP and Antera 3D. The DermaTOP and Antera 3D measurements were assessed for reproducibility and product effect detection capabilities.

RESULTS

The DermaTOP and Antera 3D successfully measured sagging feature volume, demonstrated reproducibility of measurement and furthermore were suitably sensitive to allow for detection of sagging feature volume reduction after a single application of aqueous tightening serum. DermaTOP parameters were found to moderately correlated with the Antera 3D parameters.

CONCLUSION

Both the DermaTOP and Antera 3D allow for quantitative measurement of eyelid sagging feature volume and in-turn permit evaluation of anti-ageing cosmetic preparations targeting the eyelid.

Ageing profiles of Caucasian and Chinese cohorts - focus on hands skin

OBJECTIVE

In spite of hand care being a dynamic segment of skin care, hands skin physiology has been receiving little attention in comparison to facial skin. In the present study, we aimed at gathering a comprehensive set of skin data from the dorsal part of the hand to study age related-changes in two ethnic groups (Caucasian and Chinese).

METHODS

Skin topographic, skin colour/colour heterogeneities, skin chromophores and skin biophysical measurements of 116 Caucasian and Chinese female volunteers aged 30-65 years old were collected in Ireland and in China as part of a cross-sectional study.

RESULTS

Topographic alterations happened at both micro and macro scales with a noticeable delay in the onset of 10 years for the Chinese cohort. Similar evolution of skin colour with ageing was observed between the two cohorts and strong dissimilarities were seen when it came to colour heterogeneities and melanin hyper concentration, with a 20-year delay in severity for the Chinese cohort. A similar sharp drop of skin hydration occurred when reaching the 60's regardless of the group and substantial differences were recorded for skin biomechanical properties of the skin.

CONCLUSION

These results provide additional insights about hand skin physiology in relation to ageing and ethnic differences, especially when put into perspective with what is currently known about facial ageing. This research yield additional material for hand cream product rationale and strategies for mitigating the appearance of ageing hands.