Ascorbic Acid in Skin Health

Aptamin C enhances anti-cancer activity NK cells through the activation of STAT3: a comparative study with vitamin C

Vitamin C is a well-known antioxidant with antiviral, anticancer, and anti-inflammatory properties based on its antioxidative function. Aptamin C, a complex of vitamin C with its specific aptamer, has been reported to maintain or even enhance the efficacy of vitamin C while increasing its stability. To investigate in vivo distribution of Aptamin C, Gulo knockout mice, which, like humans, cannot biosynthesize vitamin C, were administered Aptamin C orally for 2 and 4 weeks. The results showed higher vitamin C accumulation in all tissues when administered Aptamin C, especially in the spleen. Next, the activity of natural killer (NK) cells were conducted. CD69, a marker known for activating for NK cells, which had decreased due to vitamin C deficiency, did not recover with vitamin C treatment but showed an increasing with Aptamin C. Furthermore, the expression of CD107a, a cell surface marker that increases during the killing process of target cells, also did not recover with vitamin C but increased with Aptamin C. Based on these results, when cultured with tumor cells to measure the extent of tumor cell death, an increase in tumor cell death was observed. To investigate the signaling mechanisms and related molecules involved in the proliferation and activation of NK cells by Aptamin C showed that Aptamin C treatment led to an increase in intracellular STAT3 activation. In conclusion, Aptamin C has a higher capability to activate NK cells and induce tumor cell death compared to vitamin C and it is mediated through the activation of STAT3.

Ascorbyl palmitate nanofiber-reinforced hydrogels for drug delivery in soft issues

Nanofiber-based hydrogel delivery systems have recently shown great potential in biomedical applications, specifically due to their high surface-to-volume ratio of ultra-fine nanofibers and their ability to carry low solubility drugs. Herein, we introduce a visible light-triggered in situ-gelling drug vehicle (GAP Gel) composed of ascorbyl palmitate (AP) nanofibers and gelatin methacryloyl polymer. AP nanofibers form self-assembled structures through intermolecular interactions with a hydrophobic drug-loading core. We demonstrate that the hydrophilic periphery of AP nanofibers allows them to interact with other hydrophilic molecules via hydrogen bonds. The presence of AP nanofibers significantly enhances the viscoelasticity of GAP Gel in a concentration-dependent manner. Further, GAP Gel shows in vitro biocompatibility and sustained drug delivery efficacy when loaded with a hydrophobic antibiotic. Likewise, GAP Gel shows excellent in vivo biocompatibility when implanted in immunocompetent mice in various forms. Lastly, GAP Gels maintain cell viability when cultured in a 3D-environment over 7 days, establishing it as a promising and versatile hydrogel platform for the delivery of biotherapeutics.

Microneedles mediated-dermal delivery of Vitamin C: Formulation, characterization, cytotoxicity, and enhancement of stability

Vitamin C (VIT C) is an antioxidant that prevents skin aging. Although dermal delivery is one of the most effective routes to transport VIT C to the skin, the impact of this route can be limited by the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC). Additionally, VIT C rapidly oxidized and degraded under light and temperature. Therefore, this study provides an approach to utilizing microneedles (MNs) to improve the dermal delivery of VIT C and enhance its stability by incorporating a stabilizing system of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and sodium metabisulfite (Meta) within the MNs. Vitamin C microneedles (VIT C MNs) were fabricated using different biodegradable polymers and various concentrations of EDTA/Meta. VIT C MNs were evaluated for morphology, VIT C content, mechanical properties, dissolution rate, needles' insertion, physicochemical properties, ex vivo permeation, viscosity of VIT C polymeric solutions, cytotoxicity, and stability. The results showed that VIT C MNs were uniform and mechanically strong. The recovery of VIT C in MNs was 88.3-90.0 %. The dissolution rate of MNs was <30 min. The flux of VIT C varied based on the composition of MNs. VIT C MNs demonstrated safety against human dermal fibroblasts. VIT C MNs with EDTA/Meta (0.1/0.3 %) were stable under different storage conditions for two months. In conclusion, VIT C MNs were successfully developed using biodegradable polymers, and the stabilizing system (EDTA/META) provided a stable dermal delivery system for VIT C to protect skin from aging.

Quantum Sensing Unravels Antioxidant Efficacy Within PCL/Matrigel Skin Equivalents

Skin equivalents (SE) that recapitulate biological and mechanical characteristics of the native tissue are promising platforms for assessing cosmetics and studying fundamental biological processes. Methods to achieve SEs with well-organized structure, and ideal biological and mechanical properties are limited. Here, the combination of melt electrowritten PCL scaffolds and cell-laden Matrigel to fabricate SE is described. The PCL scaffold provides ideal structural and mechanical properties, preventing deformation of the model. The model consists of a top layer for seeding keratinocytes to mimic the epidermis, and a bottom layer of Matrigel-based dermal compartment with fibroblasts. The compressive modulus and the biological properties after 3-day coculture indicate a close resemblance with the native skin. Using the SE, a testing system to study the damage caused by UVA irradiation and evaluate antioxidant efficacy is established. The effectiveness of Tea polyphenols (TPs) and L-ascorbic acid (Laa) is compared based on free radical generation. TPs are demonstrated to be more effective in downregulating free radical generation. Further, T1 relaxometry is used to detect the generation of free radicals at a single-cell level, which allows tracking of the same cell before and after UVA treatment.

Investigating the inhibitory effects of carotenoids-fortified Helix aspersa slime on oxidative stress, collagenase and tyrosinase enzyme activities

BACKGROUND

The investigations of snail slime and its possible biological activities have been performed recently.

AIM

This study aimed to evaluate the properties of Helix aspersa snail slime (HAS), and carotenoids-fortified slime (HASC).

METHODS

Snails were fed with carrots for 10 days. Slime was collected and extracted using water. Saponins identification, antioxidant, collagenase, and tyrosinase enzyme inhibition activities, carotenoids, total phenols, and flavonoids content, were determined. UHPLC-MS/MS analysis was performed for phytochemical characterization.

RESULTS

Saponins were detected in the HAS extract only. However, HASC was shown to contain a higher carotenoid content than HAS (29.51 ± 0.4 vs. 18.11 ± 0.2 μg/g). similarly, total phenolic and flavonoid content were higher for the the HASC extract compared to the HAS (182.3 ± 5.2 vs. 150.28 ± 3.3 mg/g equivalent to gallic acid), and (77.62 ± 1.2 vs. 14.19 ± 0.9 mg/g equivalent to quercetin). As expected, the HASC extract exhibited higher antioxidant activity compared to the HAS, using DPPH and the ABTS assays (IC50 = 7.75 ± 0.14 vs. 20.1 ± 0.4 μg/mL), and (IC50 = 7.6 ± 0.26 vs. 19.57 ± 1.4 μg/mL). UHPLC-MS/MS analysis revealed the presence of several phytocomponents of which, hexadecanoic acid and ascorbic acid, were observed in the HASC extract. Furthermore, HASC extract exhibited superior inhibitory activity compared to HAS against collagenase and tyrosinase enzymes (IC50 = 8.4 ± 1.19 vs. 15.3 ± 1.12 μg/mL) and (IC50 = 30.1 ± 0.91 vs. 35 ± 1.3 μg/mL).

CONCLUSION

These findings highlight the potential of HASC as a valuable ingredient in various pharmaceutical applications, due to their content of various phenolic, antioxidants, carotenoids, hexadecanoic, and ascorbic acids. The latter is well known for its great cosmeceutical applications used for slowing the process of skin aging.

Syringaresinol Attenuates α-Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone-Induced Reactive Oxygen Species Generation and Melanogenesis

Ginseng has been utilized for centuries in both the medicinal and cosmetic realms. Recent studies have actively investigated the biological activity of ginseng berry and its constituents. (+)-Syringaresinol [(+)-SYR], an active component of ginseng berry, has been demonstrated to have beneficial effects on the skin, but its potential impact on skin pigmentation has not been fully explored. Here, the antioxidant and anti-pigmentary activity of (+)-SYR were evaluated in B16F10 murine melanoma cells and in an artificial human pigmented skin model, Melanoderm™. A real-time PCR, Western blotting, immunofluorescence staining, and histochemistry staining were conducted to confirm the effects of (+)-SYR on pigmentation. (+)-SYR reduced melanogenesis and dendrite elongation in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-primed B16F10 cells with low cytotoxicity. (+)-SYR suppressed the expression of melanogenic genes, namely tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2). Notably, (+)-SYR attenuated α-MSH-induced cytosolic and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, which was attributable at least in part to the suppression of NADPH oxidase-4 (NOX 4) expression. Finally, the brightening activities of (+)-SYR were verified using Melanoderm™, underscoring the potential of ginseng berry and (+)-SYR as functional ingredients in skin-brightening cosmetics.

Microencapsulation of vitamins: A review and meta-analysis of coating materials, release and food fortification

Vitamins are responsible for providing biological properties to the human body; however, their instability under certain environmental conditions limits their utilization in the food industry. The objective was to conduct a systematic review on the use of biopolymers and lipid bases in microencapsulation processes, assessing their impact on the stability, controlled release, and viability of fortified foods with microencapsulated vitamins. The literature search was conducted between the years 2013-2023, gathering information from databases such as Scopus, PubMed, Web of Science and publishers including Taylor & Francis, Elsevier, Springer and MDPI; a total of 49 articles were compiled The results were classified according to the microencapsulation method, considering the following information: core, coating material, solvent, formulation, process conditions, particle size, efficiency, yield, bioavailability, bioaccessibility, in vitro release, correlation coefficient and references. It has been evidenced that gums are the most frequently employed coatings in the protection of vitamins (14.04%), followed by alginate (10.53%), modified chitosan (9.65%), whey protein (8.77%), lipid bases (8.77%), chitosan (7.89%), modified starch (7.89%), starch (7.02%), gelatin (6.14%), maltodextrin (5.26%), zein (3.51%), pectin (2.63%) and other materials (7.89%). The factors influencing the release of vitamins include pH, modification of the coating material and crosslinking agents; additionally, it was determined that the most fitting mathematical model for release values is Weibull, followed by Zero Order, Higuchi and Korsmeyer-Peppas; finally, foods commonly fortified with microencapsulated vitamins were described, with yogurt, bakery products and gummy candies being notable examples.

Flexible Triboelectric Nanogenerator for Promoting the Proliferation and Migration of Human Fibroblast Cells

Chronic wound healing is often a prolonged process with the migration and proliferation of fibroblast cells playing crucial roles. Electrical stimulation (ES) has emerged as a promising physical therapy modality to promote these key events. In this study, we address this issue by employing a triboelectric nanogenerator (TENG) as an electrical stimulator for both drug release and the stimulation of fibroblast cells. The flexible TENG with a sandwich structure was fabricated using a PCL nanofibrous layer, Kapton, and silicon rubber. The TENG could be folded to any degree and twisted, and it could return to its original shape when the force was removed. Cultured cells received ES twice and three times daily for 8 days, with a 30 min interval between sessions. By applying current in a safe range and appropriate time (twice daily), fibroblasts demonstrate an accelerated proliferation and migration rate. These observations were confirmed through cell staining. Additionally, in vitro tests demonstrated the TENG's ability to simultaneously provide ES and release vitamin C from the patch. After 2 h, the amount of released drug increased 2 times in comparison to the control group. These findings provide support for the development of a TENG for the treatment of wounds, which underlines the promise of this new technique for developing portable electric stimulation devices.

Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and photoprotective activity of standardised Gaultheria procumbens L. leaf, stem, and fruit extracts in UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Gaultheria procumbens L. is a polyphenolic-rich medicinal and food plant. Its leaves, stems, and fruits are traditional anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, antioxidant, and antimicrobial herbal medicines used to treat internal and external inflammation-related ailments, including rheumatic diseases, influenza, the common cold, fever, and skin and periodontal problems. Moreover, G. procumbens leaf extract is used for skin care as an anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle ingredient.

AIM OF THE STUDY

Various environmental factors, especially solar ultraviolet radiation, accelerate skin ageing by promoting oxidative stress and inflammation. Despite the dermoprotective and anti-ageing applications, the impact of G. procumbens on human dermal fibroblasts is unknown. Therefore, the study aimed to evaluate the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and photoprotective activity of G. procumbens standardised leaf, stem, and fruit extracts in cellular models, including human dermal fibroblasts (Hs68 cells) under UVA-irradiation, the primary pro-ageing skin stressor.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Hs68 fibroblasts were pre-treated (24h) with G. procumbens extracts (0.5-100 μg/mL) or reference compounds followed by UVA-irradiation (8 J/cm2). Cell viability and metabolic activity were measured by CCK-8 and MTT assays in human Hs68 and mouse L929 fibroblasts, respectively. The ROS level, SOD, and GST activities were estimated by fluorescence and spectrophotometric techniques. The pro-inflammatory potential (NF-κB transcription factor activation) was checked using THP1-Blue™ NF-κB cells, and the anti-inflammatory activity was studied by measuring IL-8, ICAM-1, and NF-κB levels and phosphorylation of Erk kinase in LPS-stimulated Hs68 cells by spectrophotometry and confocal microscopy. The UVA-induced DNA damage and cell migration were evaluated by comet and scratch assays, respectively.

RESULTS

The extracts did not affect the metabolic activity of mouse L929 fibroblasts and the viability of unirradiated human Hs68 cells. Additionally, the extracts noticeably enhanced the viability of UVA-irradiated Hs68 cells up to 115-120% (p < 0.001) for stem and leaf extract at 25 μg/mL. All extracts in a wide concentration range (0.5-100 μg/mL) did not activate monocytes or induce the NF-κB transcription factor in LPS-stimulated Hs68 fibroblasts. On the other hand, the extracts (5-25 μg/mL) restored the activity of endogenous antioxidant enzymes, i.e., SOD and GST, up to 120-140% (p < 0.001) in the UVA-irradiated Hs68 cells. Moreover, a statistically significant reduction of ROS, IL-8, ICAM-1, and NF-κB levels by up to 48%, 88%, 43%, and 39%, respectively (p < 0.001) and strong suppression of Erk kinase activation was observed for the extracts (25-50 μg/mL) in LPS-stimulated human fibroblasts. The total DNA damage (% tail DNA) in irradiated Hs68 cells was also strongly decreased by up to 66-69% (p < 0.001) at 50 μg/mL. However, the treatment with the extracts did not relevantly enhance the cell migration of Hs68 fibroblasts.

CONCLUSIONS

The results suggest that G. procumbens may effectively protect human skin fibroblast from UVA irradiation. The leaf and stem extracts were the most potent antioxidants, while fruit and stem extracts revealed the strongest anti-inflammatory activity. The observed effects support the traditional use of aerial plant parts (leaves, stems, and fruits) in treating inflammation-related skin disorders cross-linked with oxidative stress and the topical application of Gaultheria extracts as anti-ageing agents intended for skin care.

Ascorbic Acid Treatments as Effective and Safe Anti-Aging Therapies for Sensitive Skin

The most common signs of aging skin include a decrease in firmness and density, uneven skin tone, and a tendency to erythema. There is an ever-increasing interest in aesthetic treatments that maintain the skin's favorable appearance. However, such therapies are difficult in the case of sensitive skin, defined as a set of stimuli-triggered symptoms (stinging, erythema, burning, and itching) that would not appear in healthy skin. Sensitive skin is common and affects, to varying degrees, about half of the European population. This study was aimed at evaluating the effects of ascorbic acid-a known antioxidant-applied with sonophoresis and microneedling on the signs of photoaging in reactive and erythematous skin. A significant improvement in skin elasticity was observed after a series of tests. A significant reduction in erythema was observed after both therapies. The greatest reduction was observed on the cheeks after applying vitamin C combined with microneedling. At the same time, the results showed an excellent tolerance of both treatments, which proved them to be safe and effective.

Nutritional Supplements for Skin Health-A Review of What Should Be Chosen and Why

Supplementation of micronutrients is considered to be crucial in the reinforcement of the skin's barrier. In this paper, 14 nutritional compounds commonly used in food or pharmaceutic industries were analyzed in terms of influencing skin conditions. The major objective of this paper was to provide a narrative review of the available literature regarding several chosen compounds that are currently widely recommended as supplements that aim to maintain proper and healthy skin conditions. We conducted a review of the literature from PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science until September 2023 without any other restrictions regarding the year of the publication. Ultimately, we reviewed 238 articles, including them in this review. Each of the reviewed compounds, including vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, curcumin, chlorella, Omega-3, biotin,Ppolypodium leucotomos, Simmondsia chinesis, gamma oryzanol, olive leaf extract, spirulina, and astaxanthin, was observed to present some possible effects with promising benefits for a skin condition, i.e., photoprotective radiation. Adding them to the diet or daily routine might have a positive influence on some skin inflammatory diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. Further, UV radiation protection facilitated by some supplements and their impact on human cells might be helpful during chemotherapy or in preventing melanoma development. Further research is needed because of the lack of clear consensus regarding the doses of the described compounds that could provide desirable effects on the skin.

Antiallergic Activity of 3-O-Dodecyl-l-ascorbic Acid

2-O-Alkyl-l-ascorbic acids and 3-O-alkyl-l-ascorbic acids were synthesized, and their degranulation inhibitory activities were evaluated. Among ascorbic acid derivatives with butyl, octyl, dodecyl, hexadecyl, and octadecyl groups introduced at the C-2 or C-3 positions, an AA derivative with a dodecyl group introduced at the C-3 position, 3-O-dodecyl-l-ascorbic acid (compound 8), showed the strongest inhibitory activity against antigen-stimulated degranulation. Compound 8 also inhibited calcium ionophore-stimulated degranulation. Compound 11, in which the hydroxyl group at the C-6 position of compound 8 was substituted with an amino group, and compound 12, in which the dodecyloxy group at the C-3 position of compound 8 was exchanged with a dodecylamino group, were synthesized, and these derivatives showed weaker inhibitory activity against antigen-stimulated degranulation than that of compound 8. In addition, orally administered compound 8 inhibited passive cutaneous anaphylaxis reactions in mice with a potency equal to that of oxatomide, an antiallergic agent. These results suggest that compound 8 may be a candidate for antiallergic treatment.

Untapped potential of non-conventional rubus species: bioactivity, nutrition, and livelihood opportunities

Rubus species holds promise as a valuable source of polyphenols and bioactive compounds, offering significant potential as functional food ingredients with both nutraceutical and pharmaceutical benefits. However, many edible species within this genus remain under-explored and their importance is largely unrecognized. This review aims to provide an overview of the nutritional and bioactive components of both explored and under-explored Rubus species, highlighting their potential health advantages, value addition, and recent advancements. The economic exploitation of Rubus is currently limited to a few cultivated species, while numerous non-conventional and wild edible species are overlooked. Recognizing the economic and nutritional significance of exploited Rubus species, it is imperative to explore the untapped potential of these underutilized plants. By doing so, these species can be preserved from endangerment and contribute to nutritional and livelihood security for communities having access to them. This review emphasizes the importance of understanding the exceptional characteristics of Rubus species as "superfoods" and encourages the promotion and cultivation of these unexplored species. By expanding the cultivation and utilization of under-explored Rubus species, we can unlock their full potential and support sustainable nutritional and economic benefits.

Biomolecular and cellular effects in skin wound healing: the association between ascorbic acid and hypoxia-induced factor

The skin serves as a barrier to protect the body from environmental microorganisms and is the largest tissue of the body and any damage must be quickly and effectively repaired. The fundamental purpose of dermal fibroblasts is to produce and secrete extracellular matrix, which is crucial for healing wounds. The production of collagen by dermal fibroblasts requires the cofactor ascorbic acid, a free radical scavenger. In skin wounds, the presence of Ascorbic acid (AA) decreases the expression of pro-inflammatory factors and increases the expression of wound-healing factors. In addition, AA plays an important role in all three phases of wound healing, including inflammation, proliferation, and regeneration. On the other hand, growing evidence indicates that hypoxia improves the wound healing performance of mesenchymal stem cell-conditioned medium compared to the normoxic-conditioned medium. In a hypoxic-conditioned medium, the proliferation and migration of endothelial cells, fibroblasts, and keratinocytes (important cells in accelerating skin wound healing) increase. In this review, the role of AA, hypoxia, and their interactions on wound healing will be discussed and summarized by the in vitro and in vivo studies conducted to date.

Highly stable and fast-dissolving ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles

OBJECTIVES

Ascorbic acid has many benefits to the skin. Numerous attempts to promote its topical delivery show great challenges since its chemical instability and poor skin impermeability. Microneedle delivery is a simple, safe, painless and effective means to deliver therapeutic or nourishing molecules into the skin. The purpose of this study was twofold: (a) to develop a new formulation of ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles to enhance ascorbic acid stability by investigating an optimal amount of polyethyleneimine as an additive to the dextran-based microneedle formulation and (b) to assess microneedle properties in terms of dissolving rate, skin penetration ability, biocompatibility and antimicrobial activity.

METHODS

The microneedles formulated with ascorbic acid and varied polyethyleneimine concentrations were fabricated and subsequently tested for ascorbic acid stability using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl assay. The dissolution rate and skin penetration depth were investigated in porcine skin and the reconstructed human full-thickness skin model respectively. The skin irritation tests were done according to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development Test Guideline No. 439. An antimicrobial disc susceptibility test was performed against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis.

RESULTS

Among varied amounts of 0%, 1.5%, 3.0% and 4.5% (w/v), the 3.0% polyethyleneimine showed the most desirable characteristics, including well-preserved shape integrity after demoulding, significantly improved stability of ascorbic acid (p < 0.001) from 33% to 96% antioxidant activity after 8 weeks of storage at 40°C, increased dissolving rate (p < 0.001) by being completely dissolved within 2 min after the skin insertion, passing skin penetration and biocompatibility tests as well as having a broad spectrum of antimicrobial property.

CONCLUSION

With a safety profile and enhanced properties, the new formulation of ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles shows outstanding potential as commercially available cosmetics and healthcare products.

Skin Pigmentation Types, Causes and Treatment-A Review

Human skin pigmentation and melanin synthesis are incredibly variable, and are impacted by genetics, UV exposure, and some drugs. Patients' physical appearance, psychological health, and social functioning are all impacted by a sizable number of skin conditions that cause pigmentary abnormalities. Hyperpigmentation, where pigment appears to overflow, and hypopigmentation, where pigment is reduced, are the two major classifications of skin pigmentation. Albinism, melasma, vitiligo, Addison's disease, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can be brought on by eczema, acne vulgaris, and drug interactions, are the most common skin pigmentation disorders in clinical practice. Anti-inflammatory medications, antioxidants, and medications that inhibit tyrosinase, which prevents the production of melanin, are all possible treatments for pigmentation problems. Skin pigmentation can be treated orally and topically with medications, herbal remedies, and cosmetic products, but a doctor should always be consulted before beginning any new medicine or treatment plan. This review article explores the numerous types of pigmentation problems, their causes, and treatments, as well as the 25 plants, 4 marine species, and 17 topical and oral medications now on the market that have been clinically tested to treat skin diseases.

Acetyl Zingerone: A Photostable Multifunctional Skincare Ingredient That Combats Features of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Skin Aging

The cumulative damage skin sustains from exposure to environmental stressors throughout life exerts significant effects on skin aging and cancer development. One of the main ways by which environmental stressors mediate their effects within skin is through induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS). In this review, we chronicle the multiple properties by which acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a skincare ingredient can benefit skin (1) by helping manage overproduction of ROS through multiple routes as an antioxidant, physical quencher and selective chelator, (2) by fortifying protection after UV exposure ends to prevent the type of epidermal DNA damage that correlates with development of skin cancer, (3) by modulating matrisome activity and nurturing the integrity of the extracellular matrix (ECM) within the dermis and (4) through its proficient ability to neutralize singlet oxygen, by stabilizing the ascorbic acid precursor tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDC) in the dermal microenvironment. This activity improves THDC bioavailability and may blunt pro-inflammatory effects of THDC, such as activation of type I interferon signaling. Moreover, AZ is photostable and can sustain its properties during UV exposure, in contrast to α-tocopherol. All these properties of AZ translate into measurable clinical benefits to improve the visual appearance of photoaged facial skin and to strengthen the skin's own defenses against sun damage.

Biosynthesis of Novel Ascorbic Acid Esters and Their Encapsulation in Lignin Nanoparticles as Carriers and Stabilizing Systems

A dual-target strategy was designed for the application of lignin nanoparticles in the lipase mediated biosynthesis of novel 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbyl-6-ferulate and 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbyl-6-palmitate and in their successive solvent-shift encapsulation in order to improve stability and antioxidant activity against temperature and pH-dependent degradation. The loaded lignin nanoparticles were fully characterized in terms of kinetic release, radical scavenging activity and stability under pH 3 and thermal stress (60 °C), showing improved antioxidant activity and high efficacy in the protection of ascorbic acid esters from degradation.

Synthesis of nanostructured silica particles for controlled release of ascorbic acid: Microstructure features and In Vitro scratch wound assay

To date, the long term stability of ascorbic acid (AA) under physiological conditions represents a major issue for wound healing and tissue regeneration applications. In this study, ascorbyl phosphate (AP) was loaded into silica nanoparticles (SiNPs) through a simple one-step procedure, in which spherical shaped porous SiNPs were obtained via hydrolysis/condensation of tetraethylorthosilicate (TEOS) in the presence of bicarbonate salt and ammonia. The as-prepared SiNPs were characterized by scanning electron microscope (SEM), transmission electron microscope (TEM) and Fourier Transformer Infrared Spectrophotometer (FTIR). Incorporation of bicarbonate salt resulted in the formation of spherical SiNPs with an average diameter of 460 ± 89 nm, while further increase of bicarbonate salt led to the formation of silica sheet-like structures. The AP-loaded SiNPs exhibited high loading efficiency from 92.3- 81.5%, according to AP content and sustained release over 3 days. According to cell viability assay, the obtained AP-enriched SiNPS showed no toxicity and supportive effect to the proliferation of human skin fibroblast cells (HSF) at a concentration less than 200 μg/mL. Moreover, it was observed that the wound closure percentage (%) after 24 h was also shown to increase to 74.1 ± 3.1% for 20AP-loaded SiNPs compared to control samples (50.1 ± 1.8%). The obtained results clearly demonstrated that the developed SiNPs formulation exhibits optimal microstructure features to maintain a sustained release of AA at wound bed for the healing of skin tissue, including acute and chronic wounds. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Antioxidant Efficacy and "In Vivo" Safety of a Bentonite/Vitamin C Hybrid

L-ascorbic acid (LAA), commonly known as vitamin C, is an excellent and recognized antioxidant molecule used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations. Several strategies have been developed in order to preserve its chemical stability, connected with its antioxidant power, but there is little research regarding the employment of natural clays as LAA host. A safe bentonite (Bent)-which was verified by in vivo ophthalmic irritability and acute dermal toxicity assays-was used as carrier of LAA. The supramolecular complex between LAA and clay may constitute an excellent alternative, since the molecule integrity does not seem to be affected, at least from the point of view of its antioxidant capacity. The Bent/LAA hybrid was prepared and characterized through ultraviolet (UV) spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction (XRD), infrared (IR) spectroscopy, thermogravimetric analysis (TG/DTG) and zeta potential measurements. Photostability and antioxidant capacity tests were also performed. The LAA incorporation into Bent clay was demonstrated, as well as the drug stability due to the Bent photoprotective effect onto the LAA molecule. Moreover, the antioxidant capacity of the drug in the Bent/LAA composite was confirmed.

Protective Effect of Commercial Grade Vitamin C against Alcohol-induced Testicular Damage in Male Wistar Rats

Background

Alcohol consumption has a negative effect on male fertility, but Vitamin C may be able to alleviate this effect.

Aims

In this study, the protective effect of Vitamin C against alcohol-induced testicular damage in adult male Wistar rats was evaluated.

Settings and Design

This study was conducted in a University setting. Following a 14-day acclimatisation period, forty adult male Wistar rats were randomly divided into eight groups of five rats. The control group received only food and water, test group B received alcohol only, test group C to E received different doses of Vitamin C, test group F to G received different doses of Vitamin C and alcohol.

Materials and Methods

After a 21-day treatment period, the testis were harvested and analysed for sperm parameters, antioxidant enzyme activity, level of lipid peroxidation and histopathological changes.

Statistical Analysis Used

All analyses was performed using SPSS (version 16) and Microsoft Excel (2019) using Student's t-test.

Results

The results showed that in groups administered with alcohol only, there was a decrease in sperm count. Sperm motility, morphology, viability and antioxidant enzyme activity, but increase in the level of lipid peroxidation. In groups treated with Vitamin C and alcohol, there was improvement in the sperm parameters, antioxidant enzymes activity and a decrease and decrease in lipid peroxidation. Furthermore, in the histology of the testis, regenerative changes were seen.

Conclusion

The chronic consumption of alcohol can have a deleterious effect on the testis, but commercial-grade Vitamin C can reverse these effects.

Development of Emulsions Containing L-Ascorbic Acid and α-Tocopherol Based on the Polysaccharide FucoPol: Stability Evaluation and Rheological and Texture Assessment

The main function of vitamin C, as an antioxidant, is to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging, smoothing wrinkles and expression lines. In addition, it acts directly on depigmentation and prevention of blemishes on the skin. In this study, natural oils (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated, adding L-ascorbic acid as an antioxidant. The optimized formulations were obtained with 8.0 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Olea europaea oil formulation (C1) with a ƞ value of 2.71 Pa.s (measured at shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 96% and with 15 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Prunus amygdalus dulcis formulation (C2) with a ƞ value of 5.15 Pa.s (at a shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 99%. The stability of the FucoPol-based formulations was investigated over 45 days at 4 °C, 20 °C, and 30 °C. The results showed that all formulations maintained the organoleptic characteristics, with pH variations (5.7–6.8 for C1, and 5.5–6.03 for C2) within the regulations for cosmetic products (4 ≤ pH ≤ 7). The accelerated stability tests proved the formulations’ stability at 4 °C with EI = 95% for C1 and EI = 100% for C2. The rheological assessment demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning and liquid-like behavior. Regarding textural parameters, formulations C1 and C2 displayed an increase in firmness and consistency with similar spreadability during the shelf life. These findings further demonstrate FucoPol’s functional properties, acting as an emulsifier and stabilizer polysaccharide in cosmetic formulations containing L-ascorbic acid.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

The antiaging effects of a product containing collagen and ascorbic acid: In vitro, ex vivo, and pre-post intervention clinical trial

Various substances, including collagen (Naticol®) and ascorbic acid, that inhibit and prevent skin aging have been studied. Collagen prevents skin aging, has anti-inflammatory effects, and assists in normal wound healing. Ascorbic acid is a representative antioxidant that plays a role in collagen synthesis. To achieve a synergistic effect of collagen and ascorbic acid on all skin types, we prepared a product named "TEENIALL." In addition, we used a container to separate ascorbic acid and collagen to prevent the oxidation of ascorbic acid. To confirm the effects of TEENIALL, we first confirmed its penetrability in fibroblasts, keratinocytes, melanocyte, and human skin tissues. Thereafter, we confirmed the collagen synthesis ability in normal human fibroblasts. Based on the results of in vitro tests, we conducted a clinical trial (KCT0006916) on female volunteers, aged 40 to 59 years, with skin wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, to evaluate the effects of the product in improving skin wrinkles, skin lifting, and pigmentation areas before using the product, and after 2 and 4 weeks of using the product. The values of nine wrinkle parameters that were evaluated decreased and those for skin sagging, pigmentation, dermal density, and mechanical imprint (pressure) relief were improved. Skin wrinkle and pigmentation were evaluated to ensure that the improvement effect was maintained even after 1 week of discontinuing the product use. The evaluation confirmed that the effects were sustained compared to those after 4 weeks of using the product. Additionally, skin wrinkles, skin lifting, radiance, and moisture content in the skin improved immediately after using the product once. Based on the results of in vitro and ex vivo experiments and the clinical trial, we show that the product containing ascorbic acid and collagen was effective in alleviating skin aging.

Compounds in Indonesian Ginger Rhizome Extracts and Their Potential for Anti-Skin Aging Based on Molecular Docking

Skin aging is a condition caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) and advanced glycation end products (AGEs). Indonesian gingers (Zingiber officinale), which consists of Gajah (GG), Red (MM), and Emprit (EE) ginger, are thought to produce anti-skin aging compounds through enzyme inhibition. The enzymes used in the molecular docking study were collagenase, hyaluronidase, elastase, and tyrosinase. This study aimed to determine the compounds contained in Indonesian ginger rhizome ethanolic extracts using liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry/mass spectrometry to differentiate metabolites contained in the different Indonesian ginger rhizome extracts. A principal component analysis (PCA) and a heat map analysis were used in order to determine which compounds and extracts contained potential anti-skin aging properties based on a molecular docking study. Ascorbic acid was used as a control ligand in the molecular docking study. Ninety-eight compounds were identified in three different ginger rhizomes extracts and were grouped into three separate quadrants. The most potent compound for anti-skin aging in the Indonesian ginger rhizome extracts was octinoxate. Octinoxate showed a high abundance in the EE ginger rhizome extract. Therefore, the EE ginger extract was the Indonesian ginger rhizome extract with the greatest potential for anti-skin aging.

A Green Tea Containing Skincare System Improves Skin Health and Beauty in Adults: An Exploratory Controlled Clinical Study

Skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, red spots, red vasculature, and porphyrin count are common indicators of skin health and beauty. The skincare system in this study contains scientifically validated ingredients such as fermented green tea (Camellia sinensis) water, niacinamide, antioxidants, and a variety of natural plant extracts. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of this skincare system in improving facial-skin health and beauty. Twenty-six healthy adults, both female and male, aged 18–54 and of all skin types and tones, were included in the study and participated as either the active or the control group (competitor product) using designated topical products for 30 days. Skin moisture, fine lines and wrinkles, porphyrin count, red spots, and red vasculature count were measured through high-quality photography, Visia® complexion analysis, FitSkin® skin analysis, and survey questions on day 0, day 8, and day 30. Significant improvements were observed in facial moisture, red-spot count, red vasculature count, and porphyrin count on day 30 in comparison with the control group. Non-significant improvements were observed in pores, skin texture, and wrinkles. With extensive well-documented functional ingredients, the studied skincare system used daily may significantly improve key areas of skin health and beauty.

Strain Development, Substrate Utilization, and Downstream Purification of Vitamin C

Vitamin C, C6H8O6, is a water-soluble vitamin that is widespread in nature. It is an essential nutrient involved in many biological processes in the living organisms: it enhances collagen biosynthesis, ensures the optimal functioning of enzymes and the immune system, has a major role in lipid and iron metabolism, and it enhances the biosynthesis of l-carnitine. Due to its antioxidant activity, vitamin C can neutralize the tissue-damaging effects of free radicals. Vitamin C is being related to the prevention of cancer and cardiovascular diseases. This review includes current information on the biosynthesis of ascorbic acid, as new methods are now challenging the traditional Reichstein process for vitamin C’s industrial-scale production. Different strains were analyzed in correlation with their ability to synthesize ascorbic acid, and several separation techniques were investigated for a more effective production of vitamin C.

Assessment of the Influence of the Selected Range of Visible Light Radiation on the Durability of the Gel with Ascorbic Acid and Its Derivative

(1) Background: Depending on the type of hydrophilic polymer used, different types of hydrogels may be chemically stable or may degrade and eventually disintegrate, or dissolve upon exposure to sunlight. Many over-the-counter medications are now stored with a limited control of temperature, humidity and lighting. Therefore, in this study, the photostability of a gel made of cross-linked polyacrylic acid (PA), methylcellulose (MC) and aristoflex (AV) was assessed, and the interaction between the polymers used and ascorbic acid and its ethylated derivative was investigated. (2) Methods: The samples were continuously irradiated at constant temperature for six hours. The stability of the substance incorporated into the gels was assessed using a UV-Vis spectrophotometer. FTIR-ATR infrared spectroscopy was used to measure changes during the exposure. (3) Results: Ascorbic acid completely decomposed between the first and second hours of illumination in all samples. The exception is the preparation based on polyacrylic acid with glycerol, in which the decomposition of ascorbic acid slowed down significantly. After six hours of irradiation, the ethylated ascorbic acid derivative decomposed in about 5% for the polyacrylic acid-based gels and aristoflex, and in the methylcellulose gel it decomposed to about 2%. In the case of ascorbic acid, the most stable formulation was a gel based on polyacrylic acid and polyacrylic acid with glycerol, and in the case of the ethyl derivative, a gel based on methylcellulose. (4) Conclusions: The experiment showed significant differences in the decomposition rate of both compounds, resulting from their photostability and the polymer used in the hydrogel.

The Combination of Niacinamide, Vitamin C, and PDRN Mitigates Melanogenesis by Modulating Nicotinamide Nucleotide Transhydrogenase

Nicotinamide nucleotide transhydrogenase (NNT) is involved in decreasing melanogenesis through tyrosinase degradation induced by cellular redox changes. Nicotinamide is a component of coenzymes, such as NAD+, NADH, NADP+, and NADPH, and its levels are modulated by NNT. Vitamin C and polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) are also known to decrease skin pigmentation. We evaluated whether a mixture of nicotinamide, vitamin C, and PDRN (NVP-mix) decreased melanogenesis by modulating mitochondrial oxidative stress and NNT expression in UV-B-irradiated animals and in an in vitro model of melanocytes treated with conditioned media (CM) from UV-B-irradiated keratinocytes. The expression of NNT, GSH/GSSG, and NADPH/NADP+ in UV-B-irradiated animal skin was significantly decreased by UV-B radiation but increased by NVP-mix treatment. The expression of NNT, GSH/GSSG, and NADPH/NADP+ ratios decreased in melanocytes after CM treatment, although they increased after NVP-mix administration. In NNT-silenced melanocytes, the GSH/GSSG and NADPH/NADP+ ratios were further decreased by CM compared with normal melanocytes. NVP-mix decreased melanogenesis signals, such as MC1R, MITF, TYRP1, and TYRP2, and decreased melanosome transfer-related signals, such as RAB32 and RAB27A, in UV-B-irradiated animal skin. NVP-mix also decreased MC1R, MITF, TYRP1, TYRP2, RAB32, and RAB27A in melanocytes treated with CM from UV-irradiated keratinocytes. The expression of MC1R and MITF in melanocytes after CM treatment was unchanged by NNT silencing. However, the expression of TYRP1, TYRP2, RAB32, and RAB27A increased in NNT-silenced melanocytes after CM treatment. NVP-mix also decreased tyrosinase activity and melanin content in UV-B-irradiated animal skin and CM-treated melanocytes. In conclusion, NVP-mix decreased mitochondrial oxidative stress by increasing NNT expression and decreased melanogenesis by decreasing MC1R/MITF, tyrosinase, TYRP1, and TYRP2.

Ultraviolet Light Protection: Is It Really Enough?

Our current understanding of the pathogenesis of skin aging includes the role of ultraviolet light, visible light, infrared, pollution, cigarette smoke and other environmental exposures. The mechanism of action common to these exposures is the disruption of the cellular redox balance by the directly or indirectly increased formation of reactive oxygen species that overwhelm the intrinsic antioxidant defense system, resulting in an oxidative stress condition. Altered redox homeostasis triggers downstream pathways that contribute to tissue oxinflammation (cross-talk between inflammation and altered redox status) and accelerate skin aging. In addition, both ultraviolet light and pollution increase intracellular free iron that catalyzes reactive oxygen species generation via the Fenton reaction. This disruption of iron homeostasis within the cell further promotes oxidative stress and contributes to extrinsic skin aging. More recent studies have demonstrated that iron chelators can be used topically and can enhance the benefits of topically applied antioxidants. Thus, an updated, more comprehensive approach to environmental or atmospheric aging protection should include sun protective measures, broad spectrum sunscreens, antioxidants, chelating agents, and DNA repair enzymes.

5G Electromagnetic Radiation Attenuates Skin Melanogenesis In Vitro by Suppressing ROS Generation

Recently, the impacts of 5G electromagnetic radiation (EMR) with 28 GHz on human health have been attracting public attention with the advent of 5G wireless communication. Here, we report that 5G (28 GHz) EMR can attenuate the skin pigmentation in murine melanoma cells (B16F10) and a 3D pigmented human epidermis model (Melanoderm™). B16 cells were exposed to 5G (28 GHz) with or without α-MSH for 4 h per day. Interestingly, 5G attenuated α-MSH-induced melanin synthesis. Fontana-Masson staining confirmed that the dendritic formation of α-MSH stimulated B16 cells was diminished by 5G exposure. To confirm the anti-melanogenic effect of 5G EMR, MelanoDerm™ was irradiated with 5G at a power intensity of 10 W/m² for 4 h a day for 16 days and melanin distribution was detected with Fontana-Masson staining, which supported the anti-melanogenic effect of 5G EMR. Consistently, 5G EMR suppressed α-MSH induced upregulation of melanogenic enzymes; tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2. Of note, 5G EMR attenuated ROS production stimulated by α-MSH and H₂O₂, suggesting that 5G EMR may dissipate ROS generation, which is pivotal for the melanin synthesis. Collectively, we demonstrated that 5G EMR can attenuate skin pigmentation by attenuating ROS generation.

Open-Label Study to Evaluate the Efficacy of a Topical Anhydrous Formulation with 15% Pure Ascorbic Acid and Ginger as a Potent Antioxidant

Vitamin C is one of the naturally occurring antioxidants capable of reducing or preventing skin photoaging. Achieving a stable formulation with the optimal dose of ascorbic acid to ensure a biologically significant antioxidant effect is a challenge when developing cosmetic formulations. The objective of this study was to develop a stable formula in a non-aqueous media with 15% pure vitamin C supplemented with ginger and to study its efficacy, skin tolerance, and cosmetic assessment in 33 women. Vitamin C stability over time was determined via a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) technique versus an aqueous option. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) determination was quantified to provide antioxidant effect. A 56-day in vivo study was performed to evaluate skin luminosity and hyperpigmentation reduction. Skin acceptability was verified by a dermatologist. The HPLC studies demonstrated a high stability of the anhydrous formula compared to an aqueous option. The in vitro studies showed a reduction in ROS of 93% (p-value < 0.0001). In vivo, luminosity increased by 17% (p-value < 0.0001) and skin tone became 10% more uniform (p-value < 0.007). Moreover, very good skin tolerance was determined as the dermatologist did not determine any clinical signs, and the subjects did not report any feelings of discomfort. We were able to develop an anhydrous formula of pure vitamin C that combines very good stability, consumer acceptance, and skin tolerance with a high level of efficacy.

In Vitro Skin Co-Delivery and Antibacterial Properties of Chitosan-Based Microparticles Containing Ascorbic Acid and Nicotinamide

Vitamins are widely found in nature, for example, in plants and fruits. Ascorbic acid and nicotinamide are examples of these compounds that have potent antioxidant properties, besides stimulating collagen production and depigmenting properties that protect the skin from premature aging. To overcome the skin barrier and reduce the instability of antioxidant compounds, alternative systems have been developed to facilitate the delivery of antioxidants, making them efficiently available to the tissue for an extended time without causing damage or toxicity. The objective of this study was to obtain chitosan biodegradable microparticles containing ascorbic acid and nicotinamide for topical delivery. The microparticles were obtained by spray drying and characterized chemically by means of scanning electron microscopy, infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, and differential exploratory calorimetry. The drugs were successfully encapsulated and the microparticles showed positive zeta potential. In vitro release assays showed a sustained release profile. The evaluation of ex vivo skin permeation and retention demonstrated low permeation and adequate retention of the compounds in the epidermis/dermis, suggesting the efficient delivery from the obtained microparticles. Antibacterial assays have shown that microparticles can inhibit the growth of microorganisms in a time- and dose-dependent manner, corroborating their use in cosmetic products for application on the skin.

An Enzyme-Free Photoelectrochemical Sensor Platform for Ascorbic Acid Detection in Human Urine

A novel enzyme-free photoelectrochemical (PEC) potential measurement system based on Dy-OSCN was designed for ascorbic acid (AA) detection. The separation and transmission of internal carriers were accelerated and the chemical properties became more stable under light excitation due to the regular microstructure of the prepared Dy-OSCN monocrystal. More importantly, the PEC potential method (OCPT, open circuit potential-time) used in this work was conducive to the reduction of photoelectric corrosion and less interference introduced during the detection process, which effectively ensured the repeatability and stability of the electrode. Under optimal conditions, the monocrystal successfully served as a matrix for the detection of AA, and the prepared PEC sensor exhibited a wide linear range from 7.94 × 10−6 mol/L to 1.113 × 10−2 mol/L and a sensitive detection limit of 3.35 μM. Practical human urine sample analysis further revealed the accuracy and feasibility of the Dy-OSCN-based PEC platform. It is expected that such a PEC sensor would provide a new way for rapid and non-invasive AA level assessment in human body constitution monitoring and lays a foundation for the further development of practical products.

Indonesian Cinnamon (Cinnamomum burmannii): Extraction, Flavonoid Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Stability in the Presence of Ascorbic Acid

Cinnamon (Cinnamomum burmannii) is a potential source used in cosmetics to prevent skin aging due to its flavonoids and antioxidant properties. This research aims to determine the best solvent for extracting flavonoids, to conduct a large-scale isolation of flavonoids, and to evaluate the effect of ascorbic acid and temperature on the extract’s stability for 16 weeks. Various solvents for small-scale extraction were screened based on the polarity index, and one of the best for use in large-scale maceration was selected based on the AlCl3 colorimetric flavonoid content and DPPH antioxidant activity. The stability test was performed by treating cinnamon with and without ascorbic acid at selected temperatures. This test measured physical stability, evaluated flavonoid content and antioxidant activity, and analyzed volatile and non-volatile compounds using GC-MS and LC-MS. The most excellent solvent to extract flavonoids was ethanol due to its high yield (21.50%), flavonoid content (0.01749 ± 8.0 × 10−5 mg QE/g extract), and antioxidant activity (IC50 0.0162 + 7.5 × 10−4 mg/mL). The ascorbic acid addition at both temperatures affected the stability of the pH and chemical constituents. The vast majority of the extract’s flavonoid content and antioxidant activity continued to increase until the end of the observation week. This study revealed that ethanol was the best extraction solvent, and ascorbic acid can be recommended as a stabilizer of cinnamon extract for use in cosmetics for further application.

Recent developments in industrial applications of nanoemulsions

Nanotechnology is being utilized in various industries to increase the quality, safety, shelf-life, and functional performance of commercial products. Nanoemulsions are thermodynamically unstable colloidal dispersions that consist of at least two immiscible liquids (typically oil and water), as well as various stabilizers (including emulsifiers, texture modifiers, ripening inhibitors, and weighting agents). They have unique properties that make them particularly suitable for some applications, including their small droplet size, high surface area, good physical stability, rapid digestibility, and high bioavailability. This article reviews recent developments in the formulation, fabrication, functional performance, and gastrointestinal fate of nanoemulsions suitable for use in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, nutraceutical, and food industries, as well as providing an overview of regulatory and health concerns. Nanoemulsion-based delivery systems can enhance the water-dispersibility, stability, and bioavailability of hydrophobic bioactive compounds. Nevertheless, they must be carefully formulated to obtain the required functional attributes. In particular, the concentration, size, charge, and physical properties of the nano-droplets must be taken into consideration for each specific application. Before launching a nanoscale product onto the market, determination of physicochemical characteristics of nanoparticles and their potential health and environmental risks should be evaluated. In addition, legal, consumer, and economic factors must also be considered when creating these systems.

Determination of Ascorbic Acid in Pharmaceuticals and Food Supplements with the New Potassium Ferrocyanide-Doped Polypyrrole-Modified Platinum Electrode Sensor

This paper reports the results obtained from the determination of ascorbic acid with platinum-based voltammetric sensors modified with potassium hexacyanoferrate-doped polypyrrole. The preparation of the modified electrodes was carried out by electrochemical polymerization of pyrrole from aqueous solutions, using chronoamperometry. Polypyrrole films were deposited on the surface of the platinum electrode, by applying a constant potential of 0.8 V for 30 s. The thickness of the polymer film was calculated from the chronoamperometric data, and the value was 0.163 μm. Cyclic voltammetry was the method used for the Pt/PPy-FeCN electrode electrochemical characterization in several types of solution, including KCl, potassium ferrocyanide, and ascorbic acid. The thin doped polymer layer showed excellent sensitivity for ascorbic acid detection. From the voltammetric studies carried out in solutions of different concentrations of ascorbic acid, ranging from 1 to 100 × 10−6 M, a detection limit of 2.5 × 10−7 M was obtained. Validation of the analyses was performed using pharmaceutical products with different concentrations of ascorbic acid, from different manufacturers and presented in various pharmaceutical forms, i.e., intravascular administration ampoules, chewable tablets, and powder for oral suspension.

Assessing the Oxidative State of the Skin by Combining Classical Tape Stripping with ORAC Assay

The antioxidant barrier system of the skin acts as the main defence against environmental pro-oxidants. Impaired skin oxidative state is linked to unhealthy conditions such as skin autoimmune diseases and cancer. Thus, the evaluation of the overall oxidative state of the skin plays a key role in further understanding and prevention of these disorders. This study aims to present a novel ex vivo model to evaluate the skin oxidative state by the measurement of its antioxidant capacity (AOC). For this the ORAC assay was combined with classical tape stripping and infrared densitometry to evaluate the oxidative state of the stratum corneum (SC). Outcomes implied the suitability of the used model to determine the intrinsic antioxidant capacity (iAOC) of the skin. The average iAOC of untreated skin was determined as 140 ± 7.4 µM TE. Skin exposure to UV light for 1 h reduced the iAOC by about 17%, and exposure for 2 h decreased the iAOC by about 30%. Treatment with ascorbic acid (AA) increased the iAOC in a dose-dependent manner and reached an almost two-fold iAOC when 20% AA solution was applied on the skin. The application of coenzyme Q10 resulted in an increase in the iAOC at low doses but decreased the iAOC when doses > 1% were applied on the skin. The results show that the combination of classical tape stripping and ORAC assay is a cost-effective and versatile method to evaluate the skin oxidative state and the pro-oxidate and antioxidative effects of topical skin treatments on the iAOC of the skin. Therefore, the model can be considered to be a valuable tool in skin research.

Age-Defying and Photoprotective Potential of Geranium/Calendula Essential Oil Encapsulated Vesicular Cream on Biochemical Parameters against UVB Radiation Induced Skin Aging in Rat

UVB irradiation promotes the production of reactive oxygen species, which can lead to an increase in oxidative stress in the cell and the generation of toxic components, resulting in photoaging. Essential oils (EOs) are well-known in the cosmetics sector for their beneficial effects, as they have a wide range of biological activities. Considering this fact, the current study investigates the photoprotective potential of geranium essential oil (GEO)/calendula essential oil (CEO) encapsulated vesicular cream on the biochemical parameters of the skin of albino rats exposed to UVB radiation. After 30 days of treatment with cream formulations and UVB irradiation, the skin tissue was assayed for several biochemical parameters and histopathology analysis. The results of biochemical study revealed that, in comparison to non-vesicular creams, vesicular cream formulations were able to protect the endogenous skin natural antioxidant system by maintaining superoxide dismutase, catalase, total protein, ascorbic acid, and hydroxyproline levels and by decreasing malondialdehyde levels in the skin after UVB exposure. Changes in various cellular structures along with the change in the epidermis and dermis of the skin after UVB exposure in the treated group were observed by a histopathology of skin tissue and compared to the non-treated group, which revealed the skin damaging effect of UVB radiation and the protective effect of vesicular creams. The results suggest that the GEO/CEO-encapsulated vesicular creams have the potential to protect the skin against harmful UVB radiation by maintaining the natural antioxidant defence mechanism of the skin. In conclusion, this research presents novel herbal cosmetic formulations with improved antioxidant capacity and photoprotective potential that may help to slow down the skin aging process.

Detachable dissolvable microneedles: intra-epidermal and intradermal diffusion, effect on skin surface, and application in hyperpigmentation treatment

Delivering bioactive compounds into skin tissue has long been a challenge. Using ex vivo porcine and rat skins, here we demonstrate that a detachable dissolvable microneedle (DDMN) array, a special dissolvable microneedle that allows needle detachment from the base within 2 min post administration, can effectively embed a model compound into epidermis and dermis. Diffusion of the compound from the needle embedding sites to the nearby skin tissue is demonstrated at various post administration periods. The relationship between the time that a conventional dissolvable microneedle array is left on skin without needle detachment from the base and the degree of skin surface abrasion at each microneedle penetration spot is also demonstrated on skin of human volunteers. Co-loading glutathione with vitamin C (vitC) can stabilize vitC in the DDMN. DDMN loaded with vitC and glutathione can help erasing post-acne-hyperpigmentation spots.

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside: An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin

OBJECTIVE

Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations.

METHODS

Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions.

CONCLUSION

A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5.

Facial Treatment with 3-O-Cetyl Ascorbic Acid for Improvement of Skin Texture: Uptake, Effectiveness, and In Vitro Carcinogenicity Assessment

Ascorbic acid (AA) is a water-soluble vitamin that is found at high concentrations in normal skin. The important and well-known benefits of using AA in skin health include the stimulation of collagen synthesis and the assistance of protection against photo-oxidative damages. To maintain stability and improve drug delivery to the active site, a variety of AA derivatives have been chemically synthesized. Among these compounds, we focus here on a lipophilic derivative, 3-O-cetyl ascorbic acid (3-CetylAA), which remains poorly characterized for cosmetic applications. Uptake analysis in three healthy human volunteers’ skin was conducted using a serial tape-stripping technique detecting 3-CetylAA (on average, 128 ± 27 pmol per µg) in the stratum corneum after a 5-h topical treatment when treated with 25 mM 3-CetylAA-containing cream for 13 days twice daily and continuously. Time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) imaging of vertical cryosections of pig skin revealed the presence of 3-CetylAA in the epidermal layer after topical treatment with 3-CetylAA-containing cream. In sun-exposed human skin, 3-CetylAA improved the texture after treatment with 25 mM 3-CetylAA-containing cream for 4 weeks or more when used twice daily or continuously. An in vitro transformation assay using BALB/c 3T3 A31-1-1 cells demonstrated that 10 µM 3-CetylAA, which is the same concentration exhibited in vitro biological activities in another lipophilic AA derivative, 2-O-octadecyl ascorbic acid, was non-carcinogenic and did not potentiate the UVC-induced transformation frequency when applied for 3 days after UVC irradiation. These results demonstrate that 3-CetylAA is a promising candidate as a lipophilic derivative of AA for cosmetic purposes.

Vitamin C-squalene bioconjugate promotes epidermal thickening and collagen production in human skin

Vitamin C (Vit C) benefits to human skin physiology notably by stimulating the biosynthesis of collagen. The main cutaneous collagens are types I and III, which are less synthesized with aging. Vit C is one of the main promotors of collagen formation but it poorly bypasses the epidermis stratum corneum barrier. To address this challenge, we developed a lipophilic version of Vit C for improving skin diffusion and delivery. Vit C was covalently conjugated to squalene (SQ), a natural lipid of the skin, forming a novel Vit C-SQ derivative suitable for cream formulation. Its biological activity was investigated on human whole skin explants in an ex vivo model, through histology and protein and gene expression analyses. Results were compared to Vit C coupled to the reference lipophilic compound palmitic acid, (Vit C-Palmitate). It was observed that Vit C-SQ significantly increased epidermal thickness and preferentially favored collagen III production in human skin after application for 10 days. It also promoted glycosaminoglycans production in a higher extent comparatively to Vit C-Palmitate and free Vit C. Microdissection of the explants to separate dermis and epidermis allowed to measure higher transcriptional effects either in epidermis or in dermis. Among the formulations studied, the strongest effects were observed with Vit C-SQ.

A novel skin brightening topical technology

Background

Effective skin lightening remains an unmet need in over‐the‐counter formulations.

Aims

This research examined a topical facial formulation containing hexylresorcinol, silymarin, 20% vitamin C, and 5% vitamin E in a proprietary anhydrous vehicle in skin explants for UVB photoprotective effects and clinical benefits.

Patients/Method

In vitro investigation examined 12 skin explants to assess the test product and vehicle. Six skin explants received 10 μL of the study product, and six skin explants received the 10 μL of the vehicle. After 96 hours, half the skin samples were exposed to 250 mJ/cm² of UVB radiation while the other half unexposed.

Clinically, 42 female subjects with normal or dry skin 35‐55 years with skin types I‐VI were enrolled possessing discoloration, uneven skin tone, and fine lines. The dermatologist investigator evaluated brightening, evenness, fine lines, wrinkles, and global appearance.

Results

Explants treated with the study product experienced no significant change in gene marker expression of pro‐collagen and pro‐inflammatory gene markers upon UVB exposure. In contrast, skin explants treated with the vehicle experienced significant decreases in pro‐collagen expression and significant increases in pro‐inflammatory gene marker expression. Clinically, the greatest improvement as compared to baseline was seen at week 12 (P < .001) with 45% improvement in brightening, 27% improvement in evenness, 25% improvement in lines, and 25% improvement in global facial appearance.

Conclusion

Hexylresorcinol, silymarin, 20% vitamin C, and 5% vitamin E in a proprietary anhydrous vehicle are effective in decreasing UVB‐induced photodamage in skin explants while clinically producing skin brightness improvement.

The Use of Antioxidants in the Treatment of Migraine

Despite numerous studies concerning the pathophysiology of migraine, the exact molecular mechanism of disturbances underlying migraine is still unknown. Furthermore, oxidative stress is considered to play a significant role in migraine pathogenesis. The notion of oxidative stress in migraine patients has been discussed for several decades. Over the past few years, among the substances that could potentially be used for migraine treatment, particular attention has been paid to the so-called nutraceutics, including antioxidants. Antioxidants supplied with food prevent oxidative stress by inhibiting initiation, propagation, and the oxidative chain reaction itself. Additionally, the agents used so far in the prevention of migraine indeed show some anti-oxidative action. The antioxidants discussed in the present paper are increasingly more often used by migraine patients not only due to mild or even a lack of side effects but also because of their effectiveness (decreased frequency of migraine episodes or shortening of an episode duration). The present review provides a summary of the studies on nutraceuticals with antioxidative properties.