Preliminary Studies on an Innovative Bioactive Skin Soluble Beauty Mask Made by Combining Electrospinning and Dry Powder Impregnation

An antioxidative, green and safe nanofibers-based film containing pullulan, sodium hyaluronate and Ganoderma lucidum fermentation for enhanced skincare

Dry masks made of natural active ingredients that are packaged in sustainable paper and free of irritating additives (e.g. preservatives, stabilizers) are a trend in the concept of healthy skincare, which possess the advantages of portability, safety and environmental friendliness. The bioactive ingredients obtained from natural plant fermentation are gradually becoming an important alternative additive for facial skincare. Herein, a novel dry facial healthcare mask was fabricated by electrospinning incorporating natural ingredients including pullulan (Pu), sodium hyaluronate (SH), and Ganoderma lucidum fermentation (GLF). The morphology, dissolving capacity, bioactivity, and safety of the obtained masks were investigated in vitro, and their antioxidation and moisturizing activities were verified at the cellular level. The results indicated that the fibrillary films based on pullulan could be dissolved in water within 20 s with good water retention capacity and film with high concentration of GLF (Pu/SH/GLF-3) could scavenge 79 % of DPPH. The films had good ability to resist microbial contamination and non-eye irritation via observing colony growth for 12 months after ultraviolet sterilization and the ocular irritation test of chicken chorioallantoic membrane. Meanwhile, cell experiments further confirmed that they did not exhibit cytotoxicity and could increase the expression of proteins related to moisturizing and antioxidation. The fascinating films have promising application prospects in cosmetic masks. This work may enrich the use of natural materials in skincare products and provide a green development direction for the light chemical industry.

Biopolymer- and Natural Fiber-Based Biomimetic Tissues to Realize Smart Cosmeceuticals and Nutraceuticals Using an Innovative Approach

More sustainable and smart cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals are necessary due to the ecological transition. In this study, a pullulan-based water solution containing chitin nanofibril-nano-lignin (CN-LG) complexes that encapsulate fish collagen polypeptide, allantoin and nicotinamide was electrospun onto a nonwoven substrate made of bamboo fibers to obtain a smart nanostructured bilayer system for releasing active molecules onto the skin or other body tissues. Infrared spectroscopy was used to characterize the composition of the bilayer system before and after rapid washing of the sample with distilled water and liquids mimicking physiological fluids. The viability of keratinocytes was studied as well as the antioxidant activity, protective activity towards UV light, metalloproteinase release of aged fibroblasts and the inhibitor activity against collagen degradation. Immunomodulatory tests were performed to investigate the anti-inflammatory activity of the bilayer system as well as its indirect antimicrobial activity. The results indicate that the bilayer system can be used in the production of innovative sustainable cosmeceuticals. In general, the adopted strategy can be extended to several smart treatments for fast release that can be commercialized as solid products, thus avoiding the use of preservatives and water.

Natural Polymers and Cosmeceuticals for a Healthy and Circular Life: The Examples of Chitin, Chitosan, and Lignin

The present review considers the design and introduction of new cosmeceuticals in the market, based on natural polymers and active molecules extracted from biomass, in a biomimetic strategy, starting with a consideration of the biochemical mechanisms, followed by natural precision biopolymer production. After introducing the contest of nanobiotechnology in relationship with its applicability for skin contact products and classifying the currently available sustainable polymers, some widely selected abundant biopolymers (chitin, chitosan, and lignin), showing specific functionalities (anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, etc.), are described, especially considering the possibility to combine them in nanostructured tissues, powders, and coatings for producing new cosmeceuticals, but with potentialities in other sectors, such as biomedical, personal care, and packaging sectors. After observing the general increase in market wellness and beauty forecasts over the next few years, parallelisms between nano and macro scales have suggested that nanobiotechnology application expresses the necessity to follow a better way of producing, selecting, and consuming goods that will help to transform the actual linear economy in a circular economy, based on redesigning, reducing, recycling, and reusing.

Chitin Nanofibril-Nanolignin Complexes as Carriers of Functional Molecules for Skin Contact Applications

Chitin nanofibrils (CN) and nanolignin (NL) were used to embed active molecules, such as vitamin E, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, lutein, nicotinamide and glycyrrhetinic acid (derived from licorice), in the design of antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant nanostructured chitin nanofibrils–nanolignin (CN-NL) complexes for skin contact products, thus forming CN-NL/M complexes, where M indicates the embedded functional molecule. Nano-silver was also embedded in CN-NL complexes or on chitin nanofibrils to exploit its well-known antimicrobial activity. A powdery product suitable for application was finally obtained by spray-drying the complexes co-formulated with poly(ethylene glycol). The structure and morphology of the complexes was studied using infrared spectroscopy and field emission scanning electron microscopy, while their thermal stability was investigated via thermo-gravimetry. The latter provided criteria for evaluating the suitability of the obtained complexes for subsequent demanding industrial processing, such as, for instance, incorporation into bio-based thermoplastic polymers through conventional melt extrusion. In vitro tests were carried out at different concentrations to assess skin compatibility. The obtained results provided a physical–chemical, morphological and cytocompatibility knowledge platform for the correct selection and further development of such nanomaterials, allowing them to be applied in different products. In particular, chitin nanofibrils and the CN-NL complex containing glycyrrhetinic acid can combine excellent thermal stability and skin compatibility to provide a nanostructured system potentially suitable for industrial applications.

Food Loss and Food Waste for Green Cosmetics and Medical Devices for a Cleaner Planet

To stay wealthy in a world where all can live in prosperity and wellbeing, it is necessary to develop sustainable growth at net zero emissions to stop climate change, neutralizing both risks and diseases such as the COVID-19 pandemic and inequalities. Changing the worldwide use of the great quantity of food loss and waste can help to move in this direction. At this purpose, it seems useful to transform food waste into richness, extracting and using its content in natural ingredients and biopolymers to make new sustainable products and goods, including cosmetics and medical devices. Many of these ingredients are not only bioactive molecules considered of interest to produce these consumer products but are also useful in reducing the environmental footprint. The active agents may be obtained, for example, from waste material such as grapes or olive pomace, which include, among others natural polymers, phythosterols, vitamins, minerals and unsaturated fatty acids. Among the polymers, chitin and lignin have shown particular interest because biodegradable, nontoxic, skin- and environmentally friendly ingredients can be obtained at low cost from food and forestry waste, respectively. According to our experience, these polymers may be used to make nanocomposites and micro-nanoparticles that encapsulate different active ingredients, and which may be embedded into gel and non-woven tissues to realize advanced medications and smart cosmeceuticals. However, to utilize food waste in the best possible way, a better education of both industry and the consumer is considered necessary, introducing all to change the ways of production and living. The consumer has to understand the need to privilege, food, cosmetics and goods by selecting products known to be effective that also have a low release of carbon dioxide. Thus, they must pay heed to purchasing cosmetics and medical devices made by natural ingredients and packaged by biodegradable and/or reusable containers that are possibly plastic free. Conversely, the industry must try to use natural raw materials obtained from waste by changing their actual production methods. Therefore, both industry and the consumer should depart from the linear economy, which is based on taking, making, and producing waste, to move into a circular economy, which is based on redesigning, reducing, reusing and recycling. Some examples will report on the possibility to use natural polymers, including chitin and lignin, to produce new cosmeceutical tissues. These innovative tissues, to be used as biodegradable carriers for making smart cosmetics and medical devices, may be produced at zero waste to save our health and the planet biodiversity.

Development of an Electrospun Patch Platform Technology for the Delivery of Carvedilol in the Oral Mucosa

The work herein presented aims to develop and characterize carvedilol (CVD) releasable non-water-soluble monolayers and a multilayer patch made of ultrathin micron and submicron fibers for drug delivery into the sublingual mucosa. Firstly, the developed formulations containing CVD within different biopolymers (PDLA, PCL, and PHB) were characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), attenuated total reflectance Fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS), and for their in vitro drug release. SEM micrographs assessed the fiber morphology attained by adding carvedilol. ATR-FTIR spectra revealed good chemical compatibility between CVD and the tested biopolymers, whereas DSC and WAXS confirmed that CVD was in an amorphous state within the biopolymeric fibers. In vitro release studies showed enhanced CVD release kinetics from the electrospun biopolymer monolayers compared to the dissolution rate of the commercial form of the pure drug, except for the slow-releasing PDLA fibers. Finally, the selected CVD-loaded layer, i.e., electrospun PHB, was built into a three-layer patch to tackle mucosa adhesion and unidirectional release, while retaining the enhanced release kinetics. The patch design proposed here further demonstrates the potential of the electro-hydrodynamic processing technology to render unique mucoadhesive controlled delivery platforms for poorly water-soluble drugs.

Antibacterial nanofibers of pullulan/tetracycline-cyclodextrin inclusion complexes for Fast-Disintegrating oral drug delivery

Tetracycline is a widely used antibiotic suffering from poor water solubility and low bioavailability. Here, hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin (HPβCD) was used to form inclusion complexes (IC) of tetracycline with 2:1 M ratio (CD:drug). Then, tetracycline-HPβCD-IC was mixed with pullulan- a non-toxic, water-soluble biopolymer - to form nanofibrous webs via electrospinning. The electrospinning of pullulan/tetracycline-HPβCD-IC was yielded into defect-free nanofibers collected in the form of a self-standing and flexible material with the loading capacity of ∼ 7.7 % (w/w). Pullulan/tetracycline nanofibers was also generated as control sample having the same drug loading. Tetracycline was found in the amorphous state in case of pullulan/tetracycline-HPβCD nanofibers due to inclusion complexation. Through inclusion complexation with HPβCD, enhanced aqueous solubility and faster release profile were provided for pullulan/tetracycline-HPβCD-IC nanofibers compared to pullulan/tetracycline one. Additionally, pullulan/tetracycline-HPβCD-IC nanofibers readily disintegrated when wetted with artificial saliva while pullulan/tetracycline nanofibers were not completely absorbed by the same simulate environment. Electrospun nanofibers showed promising antibacterial activity against both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. Briefly, our findings indicated that pullulan/tetracycline-HPβCD-IC nanofibers could be an attractive material as orally fast disintegrating drug delivery system for the desired antibiotic treatment thanks to its promising physicochemical and antibacterial properties.

Application of Blue Honeysuckle Powder Obtained by an Innovative Method of Low-Temperature Drying in Skincare Face Masks

Traditional technologies applied for obtaining plant raw materials for cosmetic production are based primarily on high-level processing, which is reflected in the qualitative composition of the resulting materials. By using low-temperature drying, it is possible to retain in the raw materials a range of valuable ingredients. In this study, blue honeysuckle powder was used as an ingredient of cosmetic face masks. The stability of the masks was evaluated. Dynamic viscosity, yield point and texture analysis of the cosmetics was performed. The color of the emulsions and the level of skin hydration after face mask application was determined. Emulsions were found to be stable. A decrease in dynamic viscosity of the emulsions as a function of increasing concentrations of the additive and under the conditions of rising rotational speed were observed. Similarly, an increase in the concentration of blue honeysuckle in the emulsions resulted in a decrease in the value of the yield point. Based on the results, it can be stated that the addition of blue honeysuckle caused a decrease in hardness of the masks, while the opposite trend was observed for adhesive force. It was found that an increase in the concentration of blue honeysuckle gave a reddish-yellow color to the samples. Corneometric assessment confirmed proper skin hydration after the application of the emulsions.

Rosmarinic Acid and Ulvan from Terrestrial and Marine Sources in Anti-Microbial Bionanosystems and Biomaterials

In order to increase their sustainability, antimicrobial renewable molecules are fundamental additions to consumer goods. Rosmarinic acid is extracted from several terrestrial plants and represents an effective anti-microbial agent. Ulvan, extracted from algae, is an anti-microbial polysaccharide. The present review is dedicated to discussing the sources and the extraction methodologies for obtaining rosmarinic acid and ulvan. Moreover, the preparation of bioanosystems, integrating the two molecules with organic or inorganic substrates, are reviewed as methodologies to increase their effectiveness and stability. Finally, the possibility of preparing functional biomaterials and anti-microbial final products is discussed, considering scientific literature. The performed analysis indicated that the production of both molecules is not yet performed with mature industrial technologies. Nevertheless, both molecules could potentially be used in the packaging, biomedical, pharmaceutical, cosmetic, sanitary and personal care sectors, despite some research being required for developing functional materials with specific properties to pave the way for many more applications.

Electrosprayed Shrimp and Mushroom Nanochitins on Cellulose Tissue for Skin Contact Application

Cosmetics has recently focused on biobased skin-compatible materials. Materials from natural sources can be used to produce more sustainable skin contact products with enhanced bioactivity. Surface functionalization using natural-based nano/microparticles is thus a subject of study, aimed at better understanding the skin compatibility of many biopolymers also deriving from biowaste. This research investigated electrospray as a method for surface modification of cellulose tissues with chitin nanofibrils (CNs) using two different sources-namely, vegetable (i.e., from fungi), and animal (from crustaceans)-and different solvent systems to obtain a biobased and skin-compatible product. The surface of cellulose tissues was uniformly decorated with electrosprayed CNs. Biological analysis revealed that all treated samples were suitable for skin applications since human dermal keratinocytes (i.e., HaCaT cells) successfully adhered to the processed tissues and were viable after being in contact with released substances in culture media. These results indicate that the use of solvents did not affect the final cytocompatibility due to their effective evaporation during the electrospray process. Such treatments did not also affect the characteristics of cellulose; in addition, they showed promising anti-inflammatory and indirect antimicrobial activity toward dermal keratinocytes in vitro. Specifically, cellulosic substrates decorated with nanochitins from shrimp showed strong immunomodulatory activity by first upregulating then downregulating the pro-inflammatory cytokines, whereas nanochitins from mushrooms displayed an overall anti-inflammatory activity via a slight decrement of the pro-inflammatory cytokines and increment of the anti-inflammatory marker. Electrospray could represent a green method for surface modification of sustainable and biofunctional skincare products.

Immunomodulatory Activity of Electrospun Polyhydroxyalkanoate Fiber Scaffolds Incorporating Olive Leaf Extract

Olive tree is a well-known source of polyphenols. We prepared an olive leaf extract (OLE) and characterized it via high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis. OLE was blended with different polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs), namely, poly(hydroxybutyrate-co-hydroxyvalerate) (PHBHV) and polyhydroxybutyrate/poly(hydroxyoctanoate-co-hydroxydecanoate) (PHB/PHOHD), to produce fiber meshes via electrospinning: OLE/PHBV and OLE/ (PHB/PHOHD), respectively. An 80–90% (w/w%) release of the main polyphenols from the OLE/PHA fibers occurred in 24 h, with a burst release in the first 30 min. OLE and the produced fiber meshes were assayed using human dermal keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) to evaluate the expression of a panel of cytokines involved in the inflammatory process and innate immune response, such as the antimicrobial peptide human beta defensin 2 (HBD-2). Fibers containing OLE were able to decrease the expression of the pro-inflammatory cytokines at 6 h up to 24 h. All the PHA fibers allowed an early downregulation of the pro-inflammatory cytokines in 6 h, which is suggestive of a strong anti-inflammatory activity exerted by PHA fibers. Differently from pure OLE, PHB/PHOHD fibers (both with and without OLE) upregulated the expression of HBD-2. Our results showed that PHA fiber meshes are suitable in decreasing pro-inflammatory cytokines and the incorporation of OLE may enable indirect antibacterial properties, which is essential in wound healing and tissue regeneration.

Biobased and Eco-Compatible Beauty Films Coated with Chitin Nanofibrils, Nanolignin and Vitamin E

A stable water-based suspension containing chitin nanofibrils (CN), chitin nanofibrils complexed with nanolignin and the latter containing Vitamin E was prepared starting from CN nanosuspension and nanostructured powders. The water-based coating was deposited by a spray technique on three different renewable and biodegradable films consisting of biodegradable polyesters and starch to prepare possible beauty mask prototypes. After drying, the films were extracted with water to control their potential release on the wet skin and different amounts of released materials were obtained. The results were discussed considering the composition and morphology of the adopted substrates and their interactions with the coating. The eco-compatibility of these films is related to the absence of preservatives and their easy biodegradability in several environmental conditions, decreasing their burden on solid waste management with respect to fossil-based versions.