Understanding Melasma-How Can Pharmacology and Cosmetology Procedures and Prevention Help to Achieve Optimal Treatment Results? A Narrative Review

Antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activities of extracts from Leonurus japonicus Houtt

Leonurus japonicus Houtt is an important anti-skin pigmentation herb used in traditional Chinese medicine. However, the molecular basis for this activity is complex and not fully understood. In this study, water and ethanol extracts and polysaccharide extract from L. japonicus (LJPs) were analyzed by LC-MS/MS and HPLC-DAD separately. Cytotoxicity was analyzed by using CCK-8, antioxidant activity using flow cytometer, anti-MMPs, anti-tyrosinase and signalling pathway analysis using Western blotting to investigate their anti-melanogenesis function. The results showed that the water and ethanol extracts contained alkaloids, flavonoids, and phenolic acids. The LJPs mainly contain glucose, fucose, glucuronic acid, mannose, threonine and arginine, and structure characterization by FITR analyses indicated that LJPs have β- or α-D-glycosidic bonds and contain pyranose rings. The L. japonicus extracts displayed high cell viability at their maximum concentration. The water extract and polysaccharides significantly reduced lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) content and exhibited a cytoprotective role. Also, these extracts displayed higher matrix metalloproteinase-2 (anti-MMP-2), anti-MMP-9 and anti-tyrosinase activities. Furthermore, the polysaccharides displayed significantly greater inhibitory effect on intracellular ROS and tyrosinase protein expression than α-arbutin and ursolic acid used for the clinical treatment of skin pigmentation. This study also investigated the polysaccharide inhibition of melanin synthesis by repressing the expression of melanocytic lineage-specific transcription factor (MITF) and melanogenic enzymes via modulation of the phosphoinositide 3-kinase (PI3K-Akt-mTOR) and β-catenin pathways. The overall results indicate that L. japonicus is a promising candidate for anti-pigmentation treatment.

Latin American consensus on the treatment of melasma

Melasma is a chronic, relapsing hyperpigmentation disorder that primarily affects photoexposed areas, occurring most frequently in adult women with darker skin phototypes. The primary factors contributing to its development include sun exposure, sex hormones (e.g., pregnancy), and genetic predisposition. Melasma is highly prevalent in Latin America, where many countries lie in intertropical zones and exhibit significant ethnic diversity because of centuries of intermixing among Native Americans, Europeans, and Sub-Saharan Africans. Nine Latin American experts formulated a DELPHI-based consensus to develop a valuable approach for treating melasma in this diverse population. After establishing an accurate diagnosis, assessing the impact on quality of life, and determining disease severity, the consensus recommends mitigating known triggers and promoting rigorous photoprotection. Active therapy should be tailored based on individual characteristics (e.g., pregnancy status, previous treatments, skin sensitivity). Treatment options include topical depigmenting agents, systemic therapies, and procedural interventions such as laser therapy, microneedling, and chemical peels. Periodic reassessment of the treatment is essential, with strategies adjusted if targeted outcomes are not achieved. Once clinical remission is attained, patients should continue using topical depigmenting agents and maintain strict photoprotection measures to prevent recurrence.

Insights from Traditional Chinese Medicine for Restoring Skin Barrier Functions

The skin barrier is essential for maintaining the body's internal homeostasis, protecting against harmful external substances, and regulating water and electrolyte balance. Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) offers notable advantages in restoring skin barrier function due to its diverse components, targets, and pathways. Recent studies have demonstrated that active ingredients in TCM can safely and effectively repair damaged skin barriers, reinstating their proper functions. This review article provides a comprehensive overview of the mechanisms underlying skin barrier damage and explores how the bioactive constituents of TCM contribute to skin barrier repair, thereby offering a theoretical framework to inform clinical practices.

Distance-based integration method for human skin type identification

Although identifying human skin types is essential in dermatology, cosmetology, and facial recognition, the classification of human skin types is challenging due to the complex nature, varied characteristics, and the influence of external factors. Traditional methods for skin type identification often rely on subjective assessments, leading to inconsistent and inaccurate results. Therefore, this paper proposes a novel method named a distance-based integration method to identify skin types based on the Fitzpatrick skin scale, also known as the Fitzpatrick skin type. This study focuses on the objective distance measurement, integrated with the Fuzzy Analytic Hierarchy Process (AHP). The objective distance was utilized to determine the distance between each HEX color code for a clinical image and each target skin type. The Fuzzy AHP algorithm was employed to calculate the total score for each target class to identify human skin type. For this study, 1,022 images of human skin were used in the experiment. The results indicated that the proposed method achieved a high average accuracy of 93 %, precision of 80 %, and specificity of 96 %.

A randomized, controlled, split-face, double-blind comparison of a multimodality pigment-correcting serum containing lotus sprout extract versus hydroquinone for moderate to severe facial hyperpigmentation, including melasma, in a diverse population

Background

Hyperpigmentation results in uneven skin tone, with darker skin types disproportionately affected.

Objective

Assess efficacy and safety of a novel, hydroquinone (HQ)-free, multimodal pigment-correcting serum (Advanced Brightening Treatment [ABT]) versus 4% HQ in moderate to severe hyperpigmentation, including melasma.

Methods

In this split-face study, ABT and 4% HQ were applied topically on randomly assigned facial sides twice daily for 12 weeks. Hyperpigmentation, skin tone evenness, modified Melasma Area and Severity Index (mMASI), Melasma Quality of Life Questionnaire (MelasQoL), self-assessment questionnaires, and tolerability were assessed.

Results

Subjects (n = 113; melasma subgroup, n = 44) were Asian (22%), Black/African American (27%), Hispanic (22%), and White/Caucasian (28%). ABT achieved comparable results to 4% HQ. ABT was well tolerated and resulted in improvement versus baseline at all visits in mean overall hyperpigmentation (-11.7% at week 12; P ≤ .001), skin tone evenness (-8.8%, P ≤ .005), and, in the melasma subgroup, mMASI (-50.6%; P ≤ .011) and MelasQoL scores (33.0 vs 46.6 for week 12 vs baseline, respectively; P ≤ .011), with similar results across racial subgroups. ABT was preferred over 4% HQ, with high satisfaction rate (≥89%).

Limitations

Quality of life improvements per treatment were not evaluated separately.

Conclusion

Efficacy and safety of ABT is comparable to 4% HQ in individuals with facial hyperpigmentation, including melasma, across multiple racial/ethnic backgrounds.

Melasma: A Step-by-Step Approach Towards a Multimodal Combination Therapy

Melasma is a common challenge in the field of pigmentary skin disorders, exerting a significant emotional and psychosocial burden on patients. The persistent and recurring nature of melasma complicates its management in routine clinical practice. This comprehensive review outlines a stepwise, practical approach encompassing diagnostic, preventive and therapeutic strategies for the management of melasma. A thorough exploration of aggravating and exacerbating factors, including sun exposure, hormonal imbalances, photosensitizing medication and cosmetics, is essential for a holistic assessment of the disease. With an emphasis on consistent and effective photoprotection, initial topical treatment modalities target the melanin production and/or the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes. Topical tyrosine inhibitors emerge as the first choice for reducing and preventing hyperpigmentation, with compounds such as thiamidol or tranexamic acid (TXA) being preferred for their safety profile over hydroquinone (HQ), kojic acid and arbutin. Combination with chemical peels can further enhance the therapeutic efficacy, even in cases with resistant melasma. In more severe cases, laser- and light-based interventions may be considered, but with the caveat of the likelihood of recurrence within 3-6 months. Assisted TXA delivery, via either fractional non-ablative laser or microneedling techniques, can further improve clinical outcomes. In conclusion, an optimal melasma management strategy is a multimodal approach, which includes effective photoprotection and a mix of different topical treatments targeting melanin synthesis, the anti-inflammatory environment, senescence and vascularity. Complementary procedures, such as chemical peels, and laser, light-based or microneedling procedures, with or without TXA, can further expedite melanin clearance in more severely affected instances. Individual discussions with patients regarding treatment expectations, recurrence likelihood and potential side effects are paramount to a comprehensive and successful therapeutic journey.

Efficacy and safety of novel topical pigment-correcting regimen with biweekly diamond tip microdermabrasion procedures on facial hyperpigmentation

BACKGROUND

Facial hyperpigmentation can negatively affect an individual's emotional and psychosocial well-being.

AIMS

Assess safety and tolerability of a combination of microdermabrasion (DG) procedures using a novel brightening pro-infusion serum (EC-DG) with a targeted at-home treatment regimen in subjects with mild to severe facial hyperpigmentation, including melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and dark spots.

PATIENTS/METHODS

This 12-week, open-label study enrolled 18 subjects (Fitzpatrick skin types I-IV) who underwent 6 in-office DG procedures with EC-DG (one procedure administered biweekly), along with daily topical application of a brightening treatment serum and dark spot cream. End points included change from baseline across multiple skin quality attributes and the Melasma Area and Severity Index (MASI), self-assessment questionnaires, and tolerability assessments.

RESULTS

The combination treatment was well tolerated and resulted in significant (p ≤ 0.05) improvements from baseline in radiance, tactile roughness, and moisturization/hydration immediately after the first treatment, in MASI score at day 3, and in overall hyperpigmentation at week 4. Most (94.1%) subjects were satisfied with treatment.

CONCLUSIONS

DG procedures using EC-DG combined with a targeted at-home skincare regimen are effective and tolerable for treating facial hyperpigmentation across a broad range of skin types.

Different therapeutic approaches in melasma: advances and limitations

Melasma is a chronic hyperpigmentation skin disorder that is more common in the female gender. Although melasma is a multifactorial skin disorder, however, sun-exposure and genetic predisposition are considered as the main etiologic factors in melasma occurrence. Although numerous topical and systemic therapeutic agents and also non-pharmacologic procedural treatments have been considered in melasma management, however, the commonly available therapeutic options have several limitations including the lack of sufficient clinical effectiveness, risk of relapse, and high rate of unwanted adverse drug reactions. Recruitment of nanotechnology for topical drug delivery in melasma management can lead to enhanced skin penetration, targeted drug delivery to the site of action, longer deposition at the targeted area, and limit systemic absorption and therefore systemic availability and adverse drug reactions. In the current review, first of all, the etiology, pathophysiology, and severity classification of melasma have been considered. Then, various pharmacologic and procedural therapeutic options in melasma treatment have been discussed. Afterward, the usage of various types of nanoparticles for the purpose of topical drug delivery for melasma management was considered. In the end, numerous clinical studies and controlled clinical trials on the assessment of the effectiveness of these novel topical formulations in melasma management are summarized.

Management of Melasma: Laser and Other Therapies-Review Study

Melasma is a commonly occurring pigmented skin condition that can significantly affect one's appearance, described as symmetric hyperpigmentation that presents as irregular brown to gray-brown macules on various facial areas, such as the cheeks, forehead, nasal bridge, and upper lip, along with the mandible and upper arms. Due to its complex pathogenesis and recurrent nature, melasma management is challenging and the outcomes following treatment are not always deemed satisfactory. Solely treating hyperpigmentation may prove ineffective unless paired with regenerative techniques and photoprotection, since one of the main reasons for recurrence is sun exposure. Hence, the treatment protocol starts with addressing risk factors, implementing stringent UV protection, and then treatment using different strategies, like applying topical treatments, employing chemical peels, laser and light therapies, microneedling, and systemic therapy. This review aims to provide a summary of the effectiveness and safety of the frequently employed laser and light therapies for treating melasma, focusing on laser therapy as a treatment for melasma.

Carotenoids in red fruit (Pandanus conoideus Lam.) have a potential role as an anti‑pigmentation agent (Review)

Melasma is a persistent condition characterized by excessive melanin production in the skin. The management of melasma necessitates a protracted treatment duration, which is associated with diminished levels of patient satisfaction. One effective strategy for mitigating occurrence of melasma is consumption of nutricosmetics with depigmentation properties. The present review aimed to investigate the potential of red fruit as a depigmentation agent. Carotenoids serve a crucial role in human nutrition as a precursor to vitamin A. Carotenoids serve as scavengers of reactive oxygen species generated by ultraviolet radiation. Carotenoids promote skin health. Red fruit, a fruit originating from Papua (Indonesia) has anti-pigmentation properties associated with its ability to block melanogenesis through various protein pathways such as PKA, ERK, and AKT signaling pathways. The consumption of food rich in carotenoids, such as red fruit, has advantageous properties to reduce hyperpigmentation and skin brightening.

Efficacy and Safety of Ablative Fractional Laser in Melasma: A Meta-analysis and Systematic Review

Melasma is a common acquired skin pigmentation disorder. The treatment is urgent but challenging. Ablative fractional laser (AFL) can improve pigmentation, but the efficacy and potential side effects are still debatable. This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of ablative fractional lasers in the treatment of melasma. A comprehensive systematic search of literature published before June 20, 2023, was conducted on online databases, including PubMed, Embase, Cochrane Library, and Web of Science. The data obtained were analyzed using Review Manager 5.4 software. Fourteen randomized controlled trials, comprising 527 patients, were included. Compared to the drug alone, the combination of AFL and the drug showed improved therapeutic efficacy in the melasma area and severity index (MASI) (MD = 1.54, 95% CI [0.16, 2.92], P = 0.03) and physician global assessment (RR = 1.61, 95% CI [1.08, 2.41], P = 0.02). However, no statistically significant results were found in patient self-assessment (RR = 1.56, 95% CI [0.88, 2.76], P = 0.12). As an individual therapy, AFL is not superior to any other lasers in terms of MASI (MD = 2.66, 95% CI [-1.32, 6.64], P = 0.19) or melanin index (MD = -7.06, 95% CI [-45.09, 30.97], P = 0.72). Common adverse events included transient erythema, burning, edema, and superficial crusting. Only a few patients experienced reversible post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, herpes labialis, and acne breakouts. These results support the application of AFL as a viable treatment option for melasma, particularly in refractory and severe cases. Rational parameterization or combination therapy may lead to significant clinical improvement with fewer complications.

Efficacy and safety of laser-related therapy for melasma: A systematic review and network meta-analysis

BACKGROUND

Melasma is a prevalent, persistent hyperpigmentation disorder that negatively affects the psychological health of patients. However, the treatment outcome remains unsatisfactory due to the complexity of pathogenesis, recurrence characteristics, and relatively high morbidity.

OBJECTIVES

To compare the performance of laser-related therapies in improving the melasma area severity index (MASI) score of melasma and the occurrence of adverse effects by network meta-analysis (NMA).

METHODS

From the inception to November 2022, eligible randomized controlled trials were identified. Two investigators independently searched relevant studies from PUBMED, EMBASE, and the Cochrane Library database.

RESULTS

A total of 39 clinical studies with 1394 participants were eligible for enrollment. For efficacy, the NMA demonstrated that Q-switched Nd: YAG laser + topical medications (QSND+TM) was superior to Q-switched Nd:YAG laser (QSND) [MD = -4.21 (-6.80, -1.63)], Er: YAG laser + topical medications (ERYL+TM) [MD = -3.52 (-6.84, -0.19)], and picosecond laser + topical medications (PICO+TM) [MD = -4.80 (-9.33, -0.27)]. The microneedling + topical medications (MN+TM) was superior to picosecond laser (PICO) [MD = -5.26 (-10.44, -0.08)] and topical medications (TM) [MD = -5.22 (-9.20, -1.23)]. The top five of the surface under the cumulative ranking curve value (SUCRA) are Q-switched Nd:YAG laser + topical medications (QSND+TM 85.9%), oral tranexamic acid (oTA 80.1%), microneedling + topical medications (MN+TM 79.7%), Q-switched Nd:YAG laser + intense pulse light (QSND+IPL 78.9%), and fractional carbon dioxide laser + topical medications (FCDL+TM 70.5%).

CONCLUSIONS

In conclusion, the Qs-Nd:YAG laser with topical medications is the first choice for treating melasma according to the SUCRA value. Among the three treatment modalities, namely MN + TM, PICO, and TM, our recommendation favors MN+TM as the superior choice for enhancing the curative efficacy in melasma. However, the actual clinical choice should also take into account the adverse effects, the skin type of the patient, the duration of the disease, and other relevant factors.

Azelaic Acid Versus Hydroquinone for Managing Patients With Melasma: Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials

Melasma, a commonly acquired hyperpigmentation skin condition, is usually treated with topical agents as the first line of management. This systematic review and meta-analysis aimed to assess the efficacy and safety of azelaic acid versus hydroquinone in treating melasma patients. We conducted a comprehensive search across four online databases (PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Cochrane Library) from the time of their creation until May 28, 2023. We considered randomized controlled studies comparing hydroquinone with azelaic acid for the treatment of melasma patients. We used the Cochrane Risk of Bias tool 2 to evaluate the risk of bias. The mean difference (MD) for continuous variables and the risk ratio (RR) for categorical variables, with a 95% confidence interval (CI) were pooled. Six studies were included, with a total of 673 patients with melasma. The azelaic acid had a lower mean change in melasma area severity index (MASI) than the hydroquinone group [MD= -1.23, 95% CI (-2.05, -0.40), P=0.004]. No difference was observed regarding the improvement via the objective response scale, the reduction in pigmentation, or the adverse events reported. However, despite not being statistically significantly different, there was a trend towards having more good responses in the azelaic acid group. Azelaic acid may be better than hydroquinone in reducing melasma severity (measured by MASI). However, larger studies with long-term follow-up are needed to validate these findings.

Trace element zinc and skin disorders

Zinc is a necessary trace element and an important constituent of proteins and other biological molecules. It has many biological functions, including antioxidant, skin and mucous membrane integrity maintenance, and the promotion of various enzymatic and transcriptional responses. The skin contains the third most zinc in the organism. Zinc deficiency can lead to a range of skin diseases. Except for acrodermatitis enteropathic, a rare genetic zinc deficiency, it has also been reported in other diseases. In recent years, zinc supplementation has been widely used for various skin conditions, including infectious diseases (viral warts, genital herpes, cutaneous leishmaniasis, leprosy), inflammatory diseases (hidradenitis suppurativa, acne vulgaris, rosacea, eczematous dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, Behcet's disease, oral lichen planus), pigmentary diseases (vitiligo, melasma), tumor-associated diseases (basal cell carcinoma), endocrine and metabolic diseases (necrolytic migratory erythema, necrolytic acral erythema), hair diseases (alopecia), and so on. We reviewed the literature on zinc application in dermatology to provide references for better use.