Ethnobotanic, Ethnopharmacologic Aspects and New Phytochemical Insights into Moroccan Argan Fruits

Plants with cosmetic uses

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Comparing adventitious root-formation and graft-unification abilities in clones of Argania spinosa

Argania spinosa trees have attracted attention in recent years due to their high resistance to extreme climate conditions. Initial domestication activities practiced in Morocco. Here we report on selection and vegetative propagation of A. spinosa trees grown in Israel. Trees yielding relatively high amounts of fruit were propagated by rooting of stem cuttings. High variability in rooting ability was found among the 30 clones selected. In-depth comparison of a difficult-to-root (ARS7) and easy-to-root (ARS1) clone revealed that the rooted cuttings of ARS7 have a lower survival rate than those of ARS1. In addition, histological analysis of the adventitious root primordia showed many abnormal fused primordia in ARS7. Hormone profiling revealed that while ARS1 accumulates more cytokinin, ARS7 accumulates more auxin, suggesting different auxin-to-cytokinin ratios underlying the different rooting capabilities. The hypothesized relationship between rooting and grafting abilities was addressed. Reciprocal grafting was performed with ARS1/ARS7 but no significant differences in the success of graft unification between the trees was detected. Accordingly, comparative RNA sequencing of the rooting and grafting zones showed more differentially expressed genes related to rooting than to grafting between the two trees. Clustering, KEGG and Venn analyses confirmed enrichment of genes related to auxin metabolism, transport and signaling, cytokinin metabolism and signaling, cell wall modification and cell division in both regions. In addition, the differential expression of some key genes in ARS1 vs. ARS7 rooting zones was revealed. Taken together, while both adventitious root-formation and graft-unification processes share response to wounding, cell reprogramming, cell division, cell differentiation and reconnection of the vasculature, there are similar, but also many different genes regulating the two processes. Therefore an individual genotype can have low rooting capacity but good graft-unification ability.

Ethnobotany, phytochemistry and biological properties of Argan tree (Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels) (Sapotaceae) - A review

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The argan [Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels] is one of the most important floristic resource in Morocco, it is the only representative of the Sapotaceae family and Argania genus found in Morocco. This tree is fully exploited by the native populations for nutrition, medication and cosmetics. The argan oil extracted from seed is the main tree product for his large use.

AIM OF THE REVIEW

This review describes the traditional uses, chemical composition and biological activities of different the argan tree parts.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This review covers the literature available from 1972 to 2021. The informations were collected from electronic databases Scopus, PubMed, Web of Science, SciFinder and Google Scholar.

RESULTS

Argan oil have been used for nutrition, and to treat several diseases, namely rheumatisms, hypercholesterolemia, atherosclerosis, lung infections, newborn gastrointestinal disorders, diabetes, skin and hair hydration. The other parts of Argan tree have been used to treat intestinal disorders, dermatosis, and hair caring, with additional uses such as livestock nutrition, carpentry and heating. The argan oil is primarily composed of unsaturated fatty acids mainly oleic and linoleic acids furthermore the chemical composition, of the others part, are very diversified (flavonoids, terpenoids, triacylglycerols, saponins. …). Diverse biological activities have been reported for argan oil, such as antioxidant, skin water retention, hair protection, cholesterol stabilization, antidiabetic, anticancer and antibacterial. Antimicrobial activities have been reported for argan leaves essential oils, when the fruit pulp organic extract presented very interesting antioxidant activity due to the presence of polyphenols. The argan cake is the seed waste produced during the extraction process, it is traditionally used for skin care and for livestock nutrition. Different biological activities of argan cake have been cited essentially antioxidant, haemoprotective, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial.

Argan (Argania Spinosa) press cake extract enhances cell proliferation and prevents oxidative stress and inflammation of human dermal papilla cells

BACKGROUND

Hair follicle undergoes a growth cycle under the regulation of dermal papilla cells. Due to their enormous roles, these fibroblast cells have been used in various in vitro studies as a screening model to evaluate the effect of hair growth regulating agents.

OBJECTIVE

In the current study, we aim to check the hair growth potential effect of Argan press cake (APC) extracted using 50 or 80 % aqueous ethanol on human hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) and to determine the molecular mechanism.

METHODS

APC were applied to HFDPCs, then cell proliferation assays, mitochondrial biogenesis assay, and oxidative stress assay were assessed. DNA microarray was performed from the cells treated with our samples and minoxidil. Validation of the results was done using Quantitative Real-Time PCR with primers for hair-growth related genes. GC/MS analysis was used to determine the compounds contained in APC 50 and 80 %.

RESULTS

APC enhanced cell proliferation along with the stimulation of the ATP content. Additionally, APC had an anti-oxidant activity against H₂O₂ mediated oxidative stress preventing dermal papilla cell senescence. Consistent with this, global gene profiling analysis showed an activation of hair growth-related pathway, and a downregulation of inflammation- and oxidative stress-related genes by APC extracts. GC/MS analysis revealed that these extracts contained pure fatty acids, derived sugar chains, and pure compounds including tocopherols, squalene, and spinasterol.

CONCLUSION

Taken together, here we showed that APC extracts had an effect on stimulating hair growth while inhibiting the inflammation and the oxidative stress of HFDPCs and thus can potentially contribute to an anti-hair loss drug development.

Two- and Three-Dimensional Spectrofluorimetric Qualitative Analysis of Selected Vegetable Oils for Biomedical Applications

Vegetable oils obtained from different plants are known for their beneficial effects on prophylaxis and supportive treatment of a great deal of inflammatory-mediated conditions. Their wide range of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, and the presence of other ingredients (e.g., tocopherols, chlorophylls), provide them with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anticancer properties, which are worth being exploited. In this study, we have carried out the spectrofluorometric analysis of selected vegetable oils, namely apricot (Prunus armeniaca) kernel oil; blueberry (Vaccinium spp.) seed oil; argan (Argania spinosa) nut oil; kiwi (Actinidia deliciosa) seed oil; grape (Vitis vinifera) seed oil; evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) oil and meadowfoam (Limnanthes alba) seed oil, with the purpose to detect their fluorescent ingredients for further identification and bioactivity comparison. The obtained two- (2D) and three-dimensional (3D) emission spectra offered a complete description of the fluorescent components of the mixture and revealed different features for studied oils.

Fatty Acid Composition of Cosmetic Argan Oil: Provenience and Authenticity Criteria

In this work, fatty-acid profiles, including trans fatty acids, in combination with chemometric tools, were applied as a determinant of purity (i.e., adulteration) and provenance (i.e., geographical origin) of cosmetic grade argan oil collected from different regions of Morocco in 2017. The fatty acid profiles obtained by gas chromatography (GC) showed that oleic acid (C18:1) is the most abundant fatty acid, followed by linoleic acid (C18:2) and palmitic acid (C16:0). The content of trans-oleic and trans-linoleic isomers was between 0.02% and 0.03%, while trans-linolenic isomers were between 0.06% and 0.09%. Discriminant analysis (DA) and orthogonal projection to latent structure-discriminant analysis (OPLS-DA) were performed to discriminate between argan oils from Essaouira, Taroudant, Tiznit, Chtouka-Aït Baha and Sidi Ifni. The correct classification rate was highest for argan oil from the Chtouka-Aït Baha province (90.0%) and the lowest for oils from the Sidi Ifni province (14.3%), with an overall correct classification rate of 51.6%. Pairwise comparison using OPLS-DA could predictably differentiate (≥0.92) between the geographical regions with the levels of stearic (C18:0) and arachidic (C20:0) fatty acids accounting for most of the variance. This study shows the feasibility of implementing authenticity criteria for argan oils by including limit values for trans-fatty acids and the ability to discern provenance using fatty acid profiling.

Effect of clones, year of harvest and geographical origin of fruits on quality and chemical composition of Argan oil

Argan oil is precious oil with food and cosmetic uses. In recent years, this oil has been subject to an increasing national and international demand. The present work aims at studying the effect of clones and age, year of harvest and geographical origin on Argan oil quality and chemical composition. The results indicate that age does not affect Argan oil quality and fatty acids content. However, clones had a significant effect on fatty acids and tocopherol levels. Saturated and unsaturated fatty acids were highly influenced by the year of harvest and geographical origin, presumably due to climatic conditions. Unsaturated fatty acids varied from 78.28% to 81.77%. Depending on clones, total tocopherols varied from 687.40 mg/kg to 1068 mg/kg. This study is useful for the choice of clones with the aim of developing Argan trees orchards destined to oil production.