Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry-The European and North America Regulation Challenges

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

Nanocosmeceuticals: Trends and Recent Advancements in Self Care

The term cosmetics refers to any substances or products intended for external application on the skin with the aim of protection and better appearance of the skin surface. The skin delivery system promotes the controlled and targeted delivery of active ingredients. The development of this system has been driven by challenges encountered with conventional cosmeceuticals, including low skin retention of active components, limited percutaneous penetration, poor water dispersion of insoluble active ingredients, and instability of effective components. The aim is to create cosmeceuticals that can effectively overcome these issues. This review focuses on various nanocarriers used in cosmeceuticals currently and their applications in skin care, hair care, oral care, and more. The importance of nanotechnology in the sphere of research and development is growing. It provides solutions to various problems faced by conventional technologies, methods, and product formulations thus taking hold of the cosmetic industry as well. Nowadays, consumers are investing in cosmetics only for better appearance thus problems like wrinkles, ageing, hair loss, and dandruff requires to be answered proficiently. Nanocarriers not only enhance the efficacy of cosmeceutical products, providing better and longer-lasting effects, but they also contribute to the improved aesthetic appearance of the products. This dual benefit not only enhances the final quality and efficacy of the product but also increases consumer satisfaction. Additionally, nanocarriers offer protection against UV rays, further adding to the overall benefits of the cosmeceutical product. Figure 1 represents various advantages of nanocarriers used in cosmeceuticals. Nanotechnology is also gaining importance due to their high penetration of actives in the deeper layers of skin. It can be said that nanotechnology is taking over all the drawbacks of the traditional products. Thus, nanocarriers discussed in this review are used in nanotechnology to deliver the active ingredient of the cosmeceutical product to the desired site.

CXCL12 Neutralizing Antibody Promotes Hair Growth in Androgenic Alopecia and Alopecia Areata

We had previously investigated the expression and functional role of C-X-C Motif Chemokine Ligand 12 (CXCL12) during the hair cycle progression. CXCL12 was highly expressed in stromal cells such as dermal fibroblasts (DFs) and inhibition of CXCL12 increased hair growth. Therefore, we further investigated whether a CXCL12 neutralizing antibody (αCXCL12) is effective for androgenic alopecia (AGA) and alopecia areata (AA) and studied the underlying molecular mechanism for treating these diseases. In the AGA model, CXCL12 is highly expressed in DFs. Subcutaneous (s.c.) injection of αCXCL12 significantly induced hair growth in AGA mice, and treatment with αCXCL12 attenuated the androgen-induced hair damage in hair organ culture. Androgens increased the secretion of CXCL12 from DFs through the androgen receptor (AR). Secreted CXCL12 from DFs increased the expression of the AR and C-X-C Motif Chemokine Receptor 4 (CXCR4) in dermal papilla cells (DPCs), which induced hair loss in AGA. Likewise, CXCL12 expression is increased in AA mice, while s.c. injection of αCXCL12 significantly inhibited hair loss in AA mice and reduced the number of CD8+, MHC-I+, and MHC-II+ cells in the skin. In addition, injection of αCXCL12 also prevented the onset of AA and reduced the number of CD8+ cells. Interferon-γ (IFNγ) treatment increased the secretion of CXCL12 from DFs through the signal transducer and activator of transcription 3 (STAT3) pathway, and αCXCL12 treatment protected the hair follicle from IFNγ in hair organ culture. Collectively, these results indicate that CXCL12 is involved in the progression of AGA and AA and antibody therapy for CXCL12 is promising for hair loss treatment.

Nanocosmetics and Skin Health: A Comprehensive Review of Nanomaterials in Cosmetic Formulations

The development of nanocosmetics nanotechnology has ushered in a new age in cosmetic research, completely changing the skincare scene. This abstract investigates the relationship between skincare and nanotechnology, particularly emphasizing the effects of nanocosmetics on skin health. Cosmetics, known as "nanocosmetics," use materials at the nanoscale, typically between 1 and 100 nanometers, to improve the effectiveness and delivery of active chemicals. Nanotechnology in cosmetics allows for the development of sophisticated delivery methods that provide enhanced stability and tailored distribution, including nanoemulsions and nanocapsules. This breakthrough overcomes the constraints of conventional formulations by enabling the entry of active ingredients into the skin's deeper layers. Studies investigating nanocosmetics and skin health were included. This encompassed in vitro studies, animal models, and clinical studies of various designs. Exclusion criteria included studies focusing solely on nanotechnology unrelated to skin health or nanocosmetics and review articles editorials, commentaries, and conference abstracts. Nanocosmetics is a groundbreaking development in skincare that provides creative answers to a range of skin issues. As the area develops, realizing the full potential of nanotechnology in fostering ideal skin health will need sustained research and adherence to safety regulations.

Organic and Biogenic Nanocarriers as Bio-Friendly Systems for Bioactive Compounds' Delivery: State-of-the Art and Challenges

"Green" strategies to build up novel organic nanocarriers with bioperformance are modern trends in nanotechnology. In this way, the valorization of bio-wastes and the use of living systems to develop multifunctional organic and biogenic nanocarriers (OBNs) have revolutionized the nanotechnological and biomedical fields. This paper is a comprehensive review related to OBNs for bioactives' delivery, providing an overview of the reports on the past two decades. In the first part, several classes of bioactive compounds and their therapeutic role are briefly presented. A broad section is dedicated to the main categories of organic and biogenic nanocarriers. The major challenges regarding the eco-design and the fate of OBNs are suggested to overcome some toxicity-related drawbacks. Future directions and opportunities, and finding "green" solutions for solving the problems related to nanocarriers, are outlined in the final of this paper. We believe that through this review, we will capture the attention of the readers and will open new perspectives for new solutions/ideas for the discovery of more efficient and "green" ways in developing novel bioperformant nanocarriers for transporting bioactive agents.

Feeding Next-Generation Nanomedicines to Europe: Regulatory and Quality Challenges

New and innovative nanomedicines have been developed and marketed over the past half-century, revolutionizing the prognosis of many human diseases. Although a univocal regulatory definition is not yet available worldwide, the term "nanomedicines" generally identifies medicinal products that use nanotechnology in their design or production. Due to the intrinsic high structural complexity of these products, the scientific and regulatory communities are reflecting on how to revise the regulatory framework to provide a more appropriate benefit/risk balance to authorize them on the market, considering the impact of their peculiar physicochemical features in the evaluation of efficacy and safety patterns. Herein, a critical perspective is provided on the current open issues regarding regulatory qualification and physicochemical characterization of nanosystems considering the current European regulatory framework on nanomedicine products. Practicable paths for improving their quality assurance and predicting their fate in vivo are also argued. Strengthening the multilevel alliance among academic institutions, industrial stakeholders, and regulatory authorities seems strategic to support innovation by standard approaches (e.g., qualification, characterization, risk assessment), and to expand current knowledge, also benefiting from the new opportunities offered by artificial intelligence and digitization in predictive modelling of the impact of nanomedicine characteristics on their fate in vivo.

Liposomes as Carriers of GHK-Cu Tripeptide for Cosmetic Application

Liposomes are self-assembled spherical systems composed of amphiphilic phospholipids. They can be used as carriers of both hydrophobic and hydrophilic substances, such as the anti-aging and wound-healing copper-binding peptide, GHK-Cu (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine). Anionic (AL) and cationic (CL) hydrogenated lecithin-based liposomes were obtained as GHK-Cu skin delivery systems using the thin-film hydration method combined with freeze-thaw cycles and the extrusion process. The influence of total lipid content, lipid composition and GHK-Cu concentration on the physicochemical properties of liposomes was studied. The lipid bilayer fluidity and the peptide encapsulation efficiency (EE) were also determined. Moreover, in vitro assays of tyrosinase and elastase inhibition were performed. Stable GHK-Cu-loaded liposome systems of small sizes (approx. 100 nm) were obtained. The bilayer fluidity was higher in the case of cationic liposomes. As the best carriers, 25 mg/cm3 CL and AL hydrated with 0.5 mg/cm3 GHK-Cu were selected with EE of 31.7 ± 0.9% and 20.0 ± 2.8%, respectively. The obtained results confirmed that the liposomes can be used as carriers for biomimetic peptides such as copper-binding peptide and that the GHK-Cu did not significantly affect the tyrosinase activity but led to 48.90 ± 2.50% elastase inhibition, thus reducing the rate of elastin degeneration and supporting the structural integrity of the skin.

Nanomedicine-fortified cosmeceutical serums for the mitigation of psoriasis and acne

Cosmetics have a long history of use for regenerative and therapeutic purposes that are appealing to both genders. The untapped potential of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals promises enhanced efficacy and addresses the issues associated with conventional cosmetics. In the field of cosmetics, the incorporation of nanomedicine using various nanocarriers such as vesicle and solid lipid nanoparticles significantly enhances product effectiveness and promotes satisfaction, especially in tackling prevalent skin diseases. Moreover, vesicle-fortified serum is known for high skin absorption with the capacity to incorporate and deliver various therapeutics. Additionally, nano-embedded serum-based cosmeceuticals hold promise for treating various skin disorders, including acne and psoriasis, heralding potential therapeutic advancements. This review explores diverse nanotechnology-based approaches for delivering cosmetics with maximum benefits.

Label-Free Quantification of Nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters in Cosmetic Hydrogels Using Raman Spectroscopy

Raman spectroscopy is a well-established technique for the molecular characterisation of samples and does not require extensive pre-analytical processing for complex cosmetic products. As an illustration of its potential, this study investigates the quantitative performance of Raman spectroscopy coupled with partial least squares regression (PLSR) for the analysis of Alginate nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters (ANC-PE) incorporated into a hydrogel. A total of 96 ANC-PE samples covering a 0.4% w/w-8.3% w/w PE concentration range have been prepared and analysed. Despite the complex formulation of the sample, the spectral features of the PE can be detected and used to quantify the concentrations. Using a leave-K-out cross-validation approach, samples were divided into a training set (n = 64) and a test set, samples that were previously unknown to the PLSR model (n = 32). The root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV) and prediction (RMSEP) was evaluated to be 0.142% (w/w PE) and 0.148% (w/w PE), respectively. The accuracy of the prediction model was further evaluated by the percent relative error calculated from the predicted concentration compared to the true value, yielding values of 3.58% for the training set and 3.67% for the test set. The outcome of the analysis demonstrated the analytical power of Raman to obtain label-free, non-destructive quantification of the active cosmetic ingredient, presently PE, in complex formulations, holding promise for future analytical quality control (AQC) applications in the cosmetics industry with rapid and consumable-free analysis.

Nanogel Containing Gamma-Oryzanol-Loaded Nanostructured Lipid Carriers and TiO2/MBBT: A Synergistic Nanotechnological Approach of Potent Natural Antioxidants and Nanosized UV Filters for Skin Protection

The human skin is a recurring target of external aggressions, such as UV radiation, leading to exacerbation of the aging process and the occurrence of skin diseases, such as cancer. Hence, preventive measures should be taken to protect it against these aggressions, consequently decreasing the chance of disease development. In the present study, a topical xanthan gum nanogel containing gamma-oryzanol-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and nanosized UV filters TiO₂ and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) was developed to assess their synergistic potential in having multifunctional skin beneficial properties. The developed NLCs contained the natural-based solid lipids shea butter and beeswax, liquid lipid carrot seed oil, and the potent antioxidant gamma-oryzanol, with an optimum particle size for topical application (<150 nm), good homogeneity (PDI = 0.216), high zeta potential (-34.9 mV), suitable pH value (6), good physical stability, high encapsulation efficiency (90%), and controlled release. The final formulation, a nanogel containing the developed NLCs and the nano UV filters, showed high long-term storage stability and high photoprotection ability (SPF = 34) and resulted in no skin irritation or sensitization (rat model). Hence, the developed formulation showed good skin protection and compatibility, demonstrating promise as a new platform for the future generation of natural-based cosmeceuticals.

Extraction of Valuable Biomolecules from the Microalga Haematococcus pluvialis Assisted by Electrotechnologies

The freshwater microalga Haematococcus pluvialis is well known as the cell factory for natural astaxanthin, which composes up to 4-7% of its total dry weight. The bioaccumulation of astaxanthin in H. pluvialis cysts seems to be a very complex process that depends on different stress conditions during its cultivation. The red cysts of H. pluvialis develop thick and rigid cell walls under stress growing conditions. Thus, the biomolecule extraction requires general cell disruption technologies to reach a high recovery rate. This short review provides an analysis of the different steps in H. pluvialis's up and downstream processing including cultivation and harvesting of biomass, cell disruption, extraction and purification techniques. Useful information on the structure of H. pluvialis's cells, biomolecular composition and properties and the bioactivity of astaxanthin is collected. Special emphasis is given to the recent progress in application of different electrotechnologies during the growth stages and for assistance of the recovery of different biomolecules from H. pluvialis.

Global Trends of Cosmeceutical in Nanotechnology: A Review

Nanotechnology suggests different innovative solutions to augment the worth of cosmetic products through the targeted delivery of content that manifests scientific innovation in research and development. Different nanosystems, like liposomes, niosomes, microemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanoform lipid carriers, nanoemulsions, and nanospheres, are employed in cosmetics. These nanosystems exhibit various innovative cosmetic functions, including site-specific targeting, controlled content release, more stability, improved skin penetration and enhanced entrapment efficiency of loaded compounds. Thus, cosmeceuticals are assumed as the highest-progressing fragment of the personal care industries that have progressed drastically over the years. In recent decades, cosmetic science has widened the origin of its application in different fields. Nanosystems in cosmetics are beneficial in treating different conditions like hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, dandruff, photoaging and hair damage. This review highlights the different nanosystems used in cosmetics for the targeted delivery of loaded content and commercially available formulations. Moreover, this review article has delineated different patented nanocosmetic formulation nanosystems and future aspects of nanocarriers in cosmetics.

Nanoparticles for Topical Application in the Treatment of Skin Dysfunctions-An Overview of Dermo-Cosmetic and Dermatological Products

Nanomaterials (NM) arouse interest in various fields of science and industry due to their composition-tunable properties and the ease of modification. They appear currently as components of many consumer products such as sunscreen, dressings, sports clothes, surface-cleaning agents, computer devices, paints, as well as pharmaceutical and cosmetics formulations. The use of NPs in products for topical applications improves the permeation/penetration of the bioactive compounds into deeper layers of the skin, providing a depot effect with sustained drug release and specific cellular and subcellular targeting. Nanocarriers provide advances in dermatology and systemic treatments. Examples are a non-invasive method of vaccination, advanced diagnostic techniques, and transdermal drug delivery. The mechanism of action of NPs, efficiency of skin penetration, and potential threat to human health are still open and not fully explained. This review gives a brief outline of the latest nanotechnology achievements in products used in topical applications to prevent and treat skin diseases. We highlighted aspects such as the penetration of NPs through the skin (influence of physical-chemical properties of NPs, the experimental models for skin penetration, methods applied to improve the penetration of NPs through the skin, and methods applied to investigate the skin penetration by NPs). The review summarizes various therapies using NPs to diagnose and treat skin diseases (melanoma, acne, alopecia, vitiligo, psoriasis) and anti-aging and UV-protectant nano-cosmetics.

Biotechnological Applications of Nanoencapsulated Essential Oils: A Review

Essential oils (EOs) are complex mixtures of volatile and semi-volatile organic compounds that originate from different plant tissues, including flowers, buds, leaves and bark. According to their chemical composition, EOs have a characteristic aroma and present a wide spectrum of applications, namely in the food, agricultural, environmental, cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors. These applications are mainly due to their biological properties. However, EOs are unstable and easily degradable if not protected from external factors such as oxidation, heat and light. Therefore, there is growing interest in the encapsulation of EOs, since polymeric nanocarriers serve as a barrier between the oil and the environment. In this context, nanoencapsulation seems to be an interesting approach as it not only prevents the exposure and degradation of EOs and their bioactive constituents by creating a physical barrier, but it also facilitates their controlled release, thus resulting in greater bioavailability and efficiency. In this review, we focused on selecting recent articles whose objective concerned the nanoencapsulation of essential oils from different plant species and highlighted their chemical constituents and their potential biotechnological applications. We also present the fundamentals of the most commonly used encapsulation methods, and the biopolymer carriers that are suitable for encapsulating EOs.