The role of phytonutrients in skin health

Bioactivities of Jojoba Oil Beyond Skincare

Jojoba oil, which is extracted from jojoba plant seeds that are native to North America, possesses a unique molecular structure and is distinct from other oils. Unlike typical oils, which mostly contain triglycerides, jojoba oil is composed of long monounsaturated esters, affording it exceptional properties and is valuable across cosmetics, chemicals, and pharmaceuticals. While jojoba oil is prevalent in beauty and skincare today, its seeds and oil have ancient roots in folk medicine, used for treating skin and scalp issues, wounds, sore throats, obesity, and even cancer, while enhancing immunity and fostering hair growth. Modern research underscores jojoba oil's pharmacological versatility, demonstrating antioxidant, antidiabetic, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, and antibacterial properties. Notably, there has been a surge in its utilization in pharmaceuticals, particularly in topical, transdermal, and parenteral formulations. This review provides a comprehensive overview of jojoba oil, encompassing its chemical composition, extraction techniques, health advantages, and pharmaceutical application developments.

Inhibitory effects of bioactive compounds on UVB-induced photodamage in human keratinocytes: modulation of MMP1 and Wnt signaling pathways

UVB radiation significantly threatens skin health, contributing to wrinkle formation and an elevated risk of skin cancer. This study aimed to explore bioactive compounds with potential UVB-protective properties. Using in silico analysis, we chose compounds to reduce binding energy with matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP1). Piperitoside, procyanidin C1, and mulberrofuran E emerged as promising candidates through this computational screening process. We investigated the UVB-protective efficacy of the selected compounds and underlying mechanisms in human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT). We also investigated the molecular pathways implicated in their action, focusing on the transforming growth factor (TGF)-β and wingless-related integration site (Wnt)/β-catenin signaling pathways. In UVB-exposed HaCaT cells (100 mJ/cm2 for 30 min), piperitoside, procyanidin C1, and mulberrofuran E significantly reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) and lipid peroxides, coupled with an augmentation of collagen expression. These compounds suppressed MMP1, tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) expression, while they concurrently enhanced collagen-1 (COL1A1), β-catenin (CTNNB1), and superoxide dismutase type-1 (SOD1) expression. Furthermore, Wnt/β-catenin inhibitors, when administered subsequently, partially counteracted the reduction in MMP1 expression and alleviated inflammatory and oxidative stress markers induced by the bioactive compounds. In conclusion, piperitoside, procyanidin C1, and mulberrofuran E protected against UVB-induced damage in HaCaT cells by inhibiting MMP1 expression and elevating β-catenin expression. Consequently, these bioactive compounds emerge as promising preventive agents for UVB-induced skin damage, promoting skin health.

Vegetable as a Source of Bioactive Compounds with Photoprotective Properties: Implication in the Aging Process

The skin, as an external organ, protects the entire body against harmful external factors. One of these factors is ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which in excessive amounts can lead to premature skin aging, DNA damage, and even skin cancer. Therefore, it is worth supporting skin protection not only with commercially available preparations, but also with a proper diet. Consuming certain vegetables and applying them topically may reduce the effects of UV radiation. The aim of the review was to collect information on the effects of vegetables and their compounds on the skin when used externally or included in the diet. This review summarizes studies on vegetables, such as broccoli, cucumber, kale, tomato, and carrot, which have shown significant activity in skin photoprotection. Additionally, it outlines the bioactive substances present in these vegetables and their effects.

Rational selection of bioactive principles for wound healing applications: Growth factors and antioxidants

Wound healing is a complex process of communication between growth factors, reactive species of oxygen, cells, signalling pathways, and cytokines in the extracellular matrix, in which growth factors are the key regulators. In humans, the main regulators of the cellular responses in wound healing are five growth factors, namely EGF, bFGF, VEGF, and TGF-β1. On the other hand, antioxidants such as astaxanthin, beta-carotene, epigallocatechin gallate, delphinidin, and curcumin have been demonstrated to stimulate cell proliferation, migration and angiogenesis, and control inflammation, to suggest a practical approach to design new strategies to treat non-healing cutaneous conditions. Based on the individual effects of growth factors and antioxidants, it may be envisioned that the use of both types of bioactives in wound healing formulations may have an additive or synergistic effect on the healing potential. This review addresses the effect of growth factors and antioxidants on wound healing-related processes. Furthermore, a prospective on their potential additive or synergistic effect on wound healing formulations, based on their individual effects, is presented. This may serve as a guide for the development of a new generation of wound healing formulations.

Polypodium vulgare L. (Polypodiaceae) as a Source of Bioactive Compounds: Polyphenolic Profile, Cytotoxicity and Cytoprotective Properties in Different Cell Lines

Pteridophytes, represented by ferns and allies, are an important phytogenetic bridge between lower and higher plants. Ferns have evolved independently of any other species in the plant kingdom being its secondary metabolism a reservoir of phytochemicals characteristic of this taxon. The study of the potential uses of Polypodium vulgare L. (Polypodiaceae) as medicinal plant has increased in recent years particularly when in 2008 the European Medicines Agency published a monograph about the rhizome of this species. Our objective is to provide scientific knowledge on the polar constituents extracted from the fronds of P. vulgare, one of the main ferns of European distribution, to contribute to the validation of certain traditional uses. Specifically, we have characterized the methanolic extract of P. vulgare fronds (PVM) by HPLC-DAD and investigated its potential cytotoxicity, phototoxicity, ROS production and protective effects against oxidative stress by using in vitro methods. The 3T3, HaCaT, HeLa, HepG2, MCF-7 and A549 were the cell lines used to evaluate the possible cytotoxic behaviour of the PVM. HPLC-DAD was utilized to validate the polyphenolic profile of the extract. H₂O₂ and UVA were the prooxidant agents to induce oxidative stress by different conditions in 3T3 and HaCaT cell lines. Antioxidant activity of in vitro PVM in 3T3 and HaCaT cell lines was evaluated by ROS assay. Our results demonstrate that PVM contains significant amounts of shikimic acid together with caffeoylquinic acid derivatives and flavonoids such as epicatechin and catechin; PVM is not cytotoxic at physiological concentrations against the different cell lines, showing cytoprotective and cellular repair activity in 3T3 fibroblast cells. This biological activity could be attributed to the high content of polyphenolic compounds. The fronds of the P. vulgare are a source of polyphenolic compounds, which can be responsible for certain traditional uses like wound healing properties. In the present work, fronds of the common polypody are positioned as a candidate for pharmaceutical applications based on traditional medicine uses but also as potential food ingredients due to lack of toxicity at physiological concentrations.

Role of ingestible carotenoids in skin protection: A review of clinical evidence

Carotenoids, a class of phytonutrients, have been well established to boost skin's innate resistance against ultraviolet (UV) B-induced erythema (sunburn). Many of the published clinical studies thus far have focused on the measurement of erythema as the primary clinical indicator of skin protection against UVB radiation. More recent studies have shown that carotenoid supplementation provides even more skin protection than previously shown as new clinical and molecular endpoints beyond UVB-induced erythema have been reported. These recent studies have demonstrated that carotenoids also provide photoprotection against UVA-induced pigmentation and inhibit molecular markers of oxidative stress such as intercellular adhesion molecule 1, heme oxygenase-1, and matrix metalloproteinases 1 and 9. This article provides a comprehensive review of the published clinical evidence on skin benefits of carotenoids in the last five decades and indicates new perspectives on the role of ingestible carotenoids in skin protection.

Valorization of Bio-Residues from the Processing of Main Portuguese Fruit Crops: From Discarded Waste to Health Promoting Compounds

Food processing generates a large amount of bio-residues, which have become the focus of different studies aimed at valorizing this low-cost source of bioactive compounds. High fruit consumption is associated with beneficial health effects and, therefore, bio-waste and its constituents arouse therapeutic interest. The present work focuses on the main Portuguese fruit crops and revises (i) the chemical constituents of apple, orange, and pear pomace as potential sources of functional/bioactive compounds; (ii) the bioactive evidence and potential therapeutic use of bio-waste generated in the processing of the main Portuguese fruit crops; and (iii) potential applications in the food, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetics industries. The current evidence of the effect of these bio-residues as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial agents is also summarized. Conclusions of the revised data are that these bio-wastes hold great potential to be employed in specific nutritional and pharmaceutical applications.

Protective effect of a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts on UV-induced photoaging in mice

UV irradiation exposure may induce photoaging of the skin tissue. Various plant extracts have been recognized as effective protectants against UV-induced damage. Here, a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts was evaluated for its anti-photoaging effects as a potential nutraceutical product for skin health. Hexane extract of marigold and ethanolic extract of rosemary were prepared, and the formulated mixture was investigated. A UV-induced photoaged mouse model was prepared, and the protective effects of the extract mixture were compared with those of hyaluronic acid (positive control). Expression of various photoaging-related biomarkers such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), interleukins, tumor necrosis factor-alpha, procollagen type I, 8-hydroxy-deoxyguanosine, superoxide dismutase, glutathione peroxidase, and catalase were determined. UV irradiation significantly enhanced the expression of these biomarkers through an inflammatory response, however, the mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts exerted inhibitory effects and protected from UV-induced damage. Suppression of inflammatory response were the mechanisms underlying this protective function of the mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts. Histological evaluation also supported these protective effects against photoaging.

Lycopene enriched tomato extract suppresses chemically induced skin tumorigenesis in mice

Abstract. The present study revealed the effects of Lycopene enriched tomato extract (LycT) on chemically induced skin cancer in mice. Skin tumors were induced by topical application of 7,12-Dimethylbenz(a)anthracene (DMBA) [500 nmol/100 ul of acetone, twice a week for two weeks] and 12-O-tetradecanoyl phorbol-13-acetate (TPA) [1.7 nmol/100 ul of acetone, twice a week for eighteen weeks] and LycT (5 mg/kg b.w.) was administered orally. Male Balb/c mice were divided into four groups (n = 15 per group): control, DMBA/TPA, LycT and LycT + DMBA/TPA. The chemopreventive response of LycT to skin tumorigenesis was evident by inhibition in tumor incidence, number, size, burden and volume in LycT + DMBA/TPA group when compared to DMBA/TPA group. This was associated with inhibition of cell proliferation in LycT + DMBA/TPA group as observed by the decrease in epidermal morphometric parameters and mRNA and protein expression of proliferating cell nuclear antigen when compared to DMBA/TPA group (p ≤ 0.05). LycT decreased (p ≤ 0.05) the mRNA and protein expression of angiogenic genes (vascular endothelial growth factor, angiopoietin-2, basic fibroblast growth factor) in LycT + DMBA/TPA group, suggesting its anti-angiogenic effects. The increase (p ≤ 0.05) in protein expression of connexin-32 and 43 in LycT + DMBA/TPA group suggests improved inter cellular communication when compared to DMBA/TPA group. Histochemical studies demonstrated that the components of extracellular matrix (fibrous proteins and mucopolysaccharides) were also modulated during skin carcinogenesis and its chemoprevention by LycT. The decrease in cell proliferation parameters and expression of angiogenesis associated genes, modulation of ECM components and increase in expression of connexins suggest that LycT improved multiple dysregulated processes during chemoprevention of skin cancer.

Plant Fortification of the Diet for Anti-Ageing Effects: A Review

Ageing is an enigmatic and progressive biological process which undermines the normal functions of living organisms with time. Ageing has been conspicuously linked to dietary habits, whereby dietary restrictions and antioxidants play a substantial role in slowing the ageing process. Oxygen is an essential molecule that sustains human life on earth and is involved in the synthesis of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that pose certain health complications. The ROS are believed to be a significant factor in the progression of ageing. A robust lifestyle and healthy food, containing dietary antioxidants, are essential for improving the overall livelihood and decelerating the ageing process. Dietary antioxidants such as adaptogens, anthocyanins, vitamins A/D/C/E and isoflavones slow the ageing phenomena by reducing ROS production in the cells, thereby improving the life span of living organisms. This review highlights the manifestations of ageing, theories associated with ageing and the importance of diet management in ageing. It also discusses the available functional foods as well as nutraceuticals with anti-ageing potential.

Reduction of senescence-associated beta-galactosidase activity by vitamin E in human fibroblasts depends on subjects' age and cell passage number

Cell senescence is due to the permanent cell cycle arrest that occurs as a result of the inherent limited replicative capacity toward the Hayflick limit (replicative senescence), or in response to various stressors (stress-induced premature senescence, SIPS). With the acquisition of the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), cells release several molecules (cytokines, proteases, lipids), and express the senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-Gal). Here we tested whether vitamin E affects SA-β-Gal in an in vitro model of cell ageing. Skin fibroblasts from human subjects of different age (1, 13, 29, 59, and 88 years old) were cultured until they reached replicative senescence. At different passages (Passages 2, 9, 13, and 16), these cells were treated with vitamin E for 24 hr. Vitamin E reduced SA-β-Gal in all cells at passage 16, but at earlier passage numbers it reduced SA-β-Gal only in cells isolated from the oldest subjects. Therefore, short time treatment with vitamin E decreases SA-β-Gal in cells both from young and old subjects when reaching replicative senescence; but in cells isolated from older subjects, a decrease in SA-β-Gal by vitamin E occurs also at earlier passage numbers. The possible role of downregulation of CD36 by vitamin E, a scavenger receptor essential for initiation of senescence and SASP, is discussed.

BPA and Nutraceuticals, Simultaneous Effects on Endocrine Functions

Background

Bisphenol A (BPA) is worldwide diffused as a monomer of epoxy resins and polycarbonate plastics and has recognized activity as Endocrine Disruptor (ED). It is capable to interfere or compete with endogenous hormones in many physiological activities thus having adverse outcomes on health. Diet highly affects health status and in addition to macronutrients, provides a large number of substances with recognized pro-heath activity, and thus called nutraceuticals.

Objective

This mini-review aims at summarizing the possible opposite and simultaneous effects of BPA and nutraceuticals on endocrine functions. The possibility that diet may represent the first instrument to preserve health status against BPA damages has been discussed.

Methods

The screening of recent literature in the field has been carried out.

Results

The therapeutic and anti-oxidant properties of many nutraceuticals may reverse the adverse health effects of BPA.

Conclusion

In vitro and in vivo studies provided evidence that nutraceuticals can preserve the health. Thus, the use of nutraceuticals can be considered a support for clinical treatment. In conclusion, dietary remediation may represent a successful therapeutic approach to maintain and preserve health against BPA damage.

Fatty Acid Profile, Total Carotenoids, and Free Radical-Scavenging from the Lipophilic Fractions of 12 Native Mexican Avocado Accessions

Mexico is the world's largest producer, exporter, and consumer of avocados. "Hass" avocado is the most commercialized cultivar, while the native Mexican avocado varieties have been displaced. Thus, studies regarding their chemical and nutraceutical characterization are scarce. We studied the total lipid content, fatty acid profile, carotenoid content, and free radical-scavenging activity of the fruit pulp from 12 accessions of the native Mexican avocado (Persea americana var. drymifolia). The results show that the chemical and nutraceutical characteristics depend on the accession type. The total lipid content ranged from 13.22 to 23.41%. The major saturated fatty acid in all the avocado accessions was palmitic acid (15.54-22.68%). Monounsaturated fatty acids, like oleic (56.58-74.19%), linoleic (5.62-16.85%) and linolenic (0.63-2.85%) acids were the most abundant unsaturated fatty acids in all the native Mexican avocado accessions. The total carotenoid content (1.57 to 7.83 mg eq. of β-carotene 100 g-¹ fresh weight) and the free radical-scavenging activity (7.58-88.62 mMol trolox equivalent 100 g^-1 fresh weight) also varied significantly (p < 0.05) among accessions. Native Mexican avocados have a great nutraceutical potential due to their high content of omega-9, omega-6, and omega-3 fatty acids and carotenoids. These compounds have been reported to display antioxidant activities and protect against cardiovascular diseases.

Use of Natural Components Derived from Oil Seed Plants for Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Diseases

The incidence of inflammatory skin diseases is increasing, so the search for relevant therapeutics is of major concern. Plants are rich in phytochemicals which can alleviate many symptoms. In this review, we concentrate on compounds found in the seeds of widely cultivated plants, regularly used for oil production. The oils from these plants are often used to alleviate the symptoms of inflammatory diseases through synergetic action of unsaturated fatty acids and other phytochemicals most commonly derived from the terpenoid pathway. The knowledge of the chemical composition of oil seeds and the understanding of the mechanisms of action of single components should allow for a more tailored approach for the treatment for many diseases. In many cases, these seeds could serve as an efficient material for the isolation of pure phytochemicals. Here we present the content of phytochemicals, assumed to be responsible for healing properties of plant oils in a widely cultivated oil seed plants and review the proposed mechanism of action for fatty acids, selected mono-, sesqui-, di- and triterpenes, carotenoids, tocopherol and polyphenols.

Nutritional Importance of Carotenoids and Their Effect on Liver Health: A Review

The consumption of carotenoids has beneficial effects on health, reducing the risk of certain forms of cancer, cardiovascular diseases, and macular degeneration, among others. The mechanism of action of carotenoids has not been clearly identified; however, it has been associated with the antioxidant capacity of carotenoids, which acts against reactive oxygen species and inactivating free radicals, although it has also been shown that carotenoids modulate gene expression. Dietary carotenoids are absorbed and accumulated in the liver and other organs, where they exert their beneficial effects. In recent years, it has been described that the intake of carotenoids can significantly reduce the risk of suffering from liver diseases, such as non-alcoholic fatty liver disease (NAFLD). This disease is characterized by an imbalance in lipid metabolism producing the accumulation of fat in the hepatocyte, leading to lipoperoxidation, followed by oxidative stress and inflammation. In the first phases, the main treatment of NAFLD is to change the lifestyle, including dietary habits. In this sense, carotenoids have been shown to have a hepatoprotective effect due to their ability to reduce oxidative stress and regulate the lipid metabolism of hepatocytes by modulating certain genes. The objective of this review was to provide a description of the effects of dietary carotenoids from fruits and vegetables on liver health.

Agro-Industrial By-Products and Their Bioactive Compounds—An Ally against Oxidative Stress and Skin Aging

The increased consumer awareness towards hazards related with sun exposure has given a boost in the cosmetics industry and particularly the sun care market. Human skin is continually being threatened by the UV irradiation present in sunlight and acute UV exposure leads to skin photoaging. Cosmetic and/or dermatological applications include several bioactive compounds that contribute to the regulation of epidermal homeostasis by providing protection against solar radiation and improving the antioxidant activity of epidermis. Plant extracts are sources of active ingredients with intense therapeutic properties, and the topical application or oral intake of these compounds could ameliorate skin condition. Nowadays, there is a growing demand for the application of the bioactive agents contained in agro-industrial byproducts in sun care products, since many of them have shown promising properties as skin photoprotectants. However, well-conducted clinical studies are required to prove their safety and efficacy before they could be regularly used. Environmentally friendly extraction and sustainable techniques are therefore under examination for recovering such compounds from agro-industrial byproducts and converting them into innovative high-value natural ingredients used in cosmetic formulations.

Nutraceuticals: A Review

Skin aging is continuously influenced by various internal and external factors such as the biologic progression of cells, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, tobacco, nutritional deficiencies, and hormonal imbalances that lead to the degradation of skin cells. Through the degradation of skin cells, free radicals and inflammation weaken repair mechanisms and result in collagen and elastic fiber breakdown. The appearance of aging skin is highlighted by skin roughness, wrinkling, pigmentation change, telangiectasias, loss of elasticity, and decreased firmness, all of which are accelerated by these internal and external factors. Throughout the years, nutraceuticals have been studied to delay and fight against these internal and external factors, many of which are found in foods and byproducts consumed naturally. The aim of this review is to aid dermatologists in understanding the mechanism of action of popular nutraceuticals and their possible efficacy in antiaging and skin health.

The flavonoid hesperidin exerts anti-photoaging effect by downregulating matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-9 expression via mitogen activated protein kinase (MAPK)-dependent signaling pathways

Background

Hesperidin is a flavonoid with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immune modulatory activities. Photoaging is a consequence of chronic exposure to the sun and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This study was designed to evaluate the efficacy of hesperidin against photoaging of dorsal skin in hairless mice.

Methods

Hairless male mice (6-week-old) were divided into three groups (n = 7): control, UVB-treated vehicle, and UVB-treated hesperidin groups. UVB-irradiated mice from hesperidin group were orally administered 0.1 mL of water containing 100 mg/kg body weight per day hesperidin.

Results

The mean length and depth of wrinkles in the UVB-treated hesperidin group significantly improved after the oral administration of hesperidin, which significantly inhibited the increase in epidermal thickness and epidermal hypertrophy (P < 0.05). UVB irradiation of mice induced epidermal barrier dysfunction including an increase in the transepidermal water loss (TEWL); however, hesperidin decreased the TEWL. UVB irradiation increased the expression of MMP-9 and pro-inflammatory cytokines whereas UVB-treated hesperidin group showed reduced expression. These results indicate that hesperidin showed anti-photoaging activity in the UVB-irradiated hairless mice. In conclusion, hesperidin inhibited the UVB-induced increase in skin thickness, wrinkle formation, and collagen fiber loss in male hairless mice.

Conclusions

These results suggest that hesperidin shows potent anti-photoaging activity by regulating MMP-9 expression through the suppression of MAPK-dependent signaling pathways.

Poly herbal formulation with anti-elastase and anti-oxidant properties for skin anti-aging

Background

Skin forms an important part of human innate immune system. Wrinkles, thinning and roughening of skin are some of the symptoms that affect the skin as it ages. Reactive oxygen species induced oxidative stress plays a major role in skin aging by modulating the elastase enzyme level in the skin. Extrinsic factors that affect skin aging such as UV radiation can also cause malignant melanoma. Here we selected four medicinal plant materials, namely, leaves of Nyctanthes arbor-tristis, unripe and ripe Aegle marmelos fruit pulp and the terminal meristem of Musa paradisiaca flower and investigated their anti-aging properties and cytotoxicity in vitro individually as well as in a poly herbal formulation containing the four plant extracts in different ratios.

Methods

The phytochemical contents of the plant extracts were investigated for radical scavenging activity and total reducing power. Based upon its anti-oxidant properties, a poly herbal formulation containing leaves of Nyctanthes arbor-tristis, unripe and ripe fruit pulp of Aegle marmelos, and the terminal meristem of Musa paradisiaca flower in the ratio 6:2:1:1 (Poly Herbal Formulation 1) and 1:1:1:1 (Poly Herbal Formulation 2), respectively were formulated.

Result

It has been observed that the Poly Herbal Formulation 1 was more potent than Poly Herbal Formulation 2 due to better anti-oxidant and anti-elastase activities in NIH3T3 fibroblast cells. In addition Poly Herbal formulation 1 also had better anti-cancer activity in human malignant melanoma cells.

Conclusion

Based on these results these beneficial plant extracts were identified for its potential application as an anti-aging agent in skin creams as well as an anti-proliferation compound against cancer cells.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (10.1186/s12906-018-2097-9) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Human skin gene expression: Natural (trans) resveratrol versus five resveratrol analogs for dermal applications

Resveratrol (RV) is a polyphenolic compound naturally produced by plants. Polyphenolic compounds incorporated into medicinal products are beneficial but, RV is rapidly metabolized with an associated decline in biological activity. This study tested RV as the standard and compared five structurally modified RV analogs: butyrate, isobutyrate, palmitoate, acetate, and diacetate (to improve functionality) at 1% concentration(s) for 24 h in epiderm full thickness cultures by gene array/qPCR mRNA analysis. When silent mating type information regulation 2 homolog 1, extracellular elements (collagen1A1, 3A1, 4A1; elastin, tissue inhibitor of matrix metalloproteinase 1, fibrillin 1 laminin beta1 and matrix metalloproteinase 9), anti-aging and aging genes, inflammatory biomarkers (interleukin-1A [IL1A], IL1R2, IL-6 and IL-8), nerve growth factor, and the antioxidants (proliferating cell nuclear antigen, catalase, superoxide dismutase and metallothionein 1H/2H) were evaluated, ranking each from highest-to-lowest for gene expression: butyrate > isobutyrate > diacetate > acetate > palmitoate. This study showed that the butyrate and isobutyrate analogs are more biologically active compared to resveratrol and have potential use in topical applications to improve dermal and other health applications. Impact statement Resveratrol has been reported to have a wide variety of health benefits but its rapid metabolism especially after oral ingestion results in very low bioavailability. Notably, the first human skin gene expression study of resveratrol was not published until 2014. The purpose of this study was to determine if increased stability and biological activity could be obtained by modifying the chemical structure of natural (trans) resveratrol and quantifying human gene expression by qPCR of skin biomarkers that enhance dermal health. Five resveratrol analogs were synthesized that increased their lipophilic index to enhance tissue penetration and augment biological activities on the measured parameters that expand the current knowledge of structure/function relationships. The butyrate and isobutyrate modifications displayed gene expression values significantly above resveratrol and suggest that oral application of these and potentially other resveratrol analogs may yield similar results to improve stability and biological activity to benefit/address various disorders/diseases.

A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to determine the efficacy and safety of lactoferrin with vitamin E and zinc as an oral therapy for mild to moderate acne vulgaris

Lactoferrin is an iron-binding milk-derived protein that has shown antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects in vitro and in vivo. The objective of this study was to determine the efficacy and safety of lactoferrin, combined with vitamin E and zinc, for mild to moderate acne vulgaris. In this randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 168 subjects aged 13-40 years old were randomly assigned to take either a capsule formulation containing lactoferrin with vitamin E and zinc or placebo twice a day for 3 months. The primary outcome measure was a reduction in the number of acne lesions compared to placebo. A total of 164 subjects completed the study per protocol. The lactoferrin group (n = 82) showed a significant median percent reduction in total lesions as early as 2 weeks (14.5%, P = 0.0120), with the maximum reduction occurring at week 10 (28.5%, P < 0.0001) compared to placebo group (n = 82). Maximum reduction in comedones (32.5%, P < 0.0001) and inflammatory lesions (44%, P < 0.0001) was also seen at week 10 compared to placebo. Sebum scores were improved by week 12. No adverse events were observed during the trial. A twice daily regimen of lactoferrin with vitamin E and zinc significantly reduced acne lesions in people with mild to moderate acne vulgaris.

Protective effects of a novel nutritional and phytonutrient blend on ultraviolet radiation-induced skin damage and inflammatory response through aging defense mechanisms

BACKGROUND

The human body relies on several aging defense mechanisms (ADMs) to limit damage induced from pro-aging stressors (aging aggressors). However, such protective mechanisms can be compromised, leading to accelerated aging. The skin provides a model to probe the effects of an oral nutritional intervention on ADMs in response to ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced damage.

OBJECTIVE

To determine whether supplementation with a novel nutritional and phytonutrient blend could protect against UVR-induced skin damage and positively influence facial skin attributes and characteristics by bolstering ADMs.

METHODS

Thirty-six healthy, nonsmoking women (40-75 years) with Fitzpatrick skin types I and II were recruited. UVR-induced erythema and the number of apoptotic cells were determined before (pre-) and after 8-week (post-) supplementation. Other clinical variables included skin carotenoid concentrations, facial skin attributes and characteristics.

RESULTS

Eight-week supplementation led to protection against UVR-induced skin damage as evidenced by reductions in erythema at all three minimal erythema doses (MEDs) (9.1 to 7.4 [P = 0.10]; 15.8 to 13.6 [P = 0.02]; and 19.6 to 17.3 [P = 0.01] for one, two, and three MEDs and a reduction in the average number of apoptotic cells [11.3 to 5.3, P < 0.0001] pre- and post-supplementation, respectively). Skin carotenoid concentrations increased from 28 111 Raman intensity units to 38 472 (P < 0.0001) along with noticeable improvements in facial skin attributes and characteristics: elasticity, transepidermal water loss, radiance, texture, and overall appearance (all P < 0.05) following supplementation.

CONCLUSION

Eight weeks of oral supplementation positively impacted ADMs resulting in protection against UVR-induced skin damage and improvements in facial skin attributes and characteristics.

Skin aging and oxidative stress: Equol's anti-aging effects via biochemical and molecular mechanisms

Oxygen in biology is essential for life. It comes at a cost during normal cellular function, where reactive oxygen species (ROS) are generated by oxidative metabolism. Human skin exposed to solar ultra-violet radiation (UVR) dramatically increases ROS production/oxidative stress. It is important to understand the characteristics of human skin and how chronological (intrinsic) aging and photo-aging (extrinsic aging) occur via the impact of ROS production by cascade signaling pathways. The goal is to oppose or neutralize ROS insults to maintain good dermal health. Botanicals, as active ingredients, represent one of the largest categories used in dermatology and cosmeceuticals to combat skin aging. An emerging botanical is equol, a polyphenolic/isoflavonoid molecule found in plants and food products and via gastrointestinal metabolism from precursor compounds. Introductory sections cover oxygen, free radicals (ROS), oxidative stress, antioxidants, human skin aging, cellular/molecular ROS events in skin, steroid enzymes/receptors/hormonal actions and genetic factors in aging skin. The main focus of this review covers the characteristics of equol (phytoestrogenic, antioxidant and enhancement of extracellular matrix properties) to reduce skin aging along with its anti-aging skin influences via reducing oxidative stress cascade events by a variety of biochemical/molecular actions and mechanisms to enhance human dermal health.

Current application of phytocompound-based nanocosmeceuticals for beauty and skin therapy

Phytocompounds have been used in cosmeceuticals for decades and have shown potential for beauty applications, including sunscreen, moisturizing and antiaging, and skin-based therapy. The major concerns in the usage of phyto-based cosmeceuticals are lower penetration and high compound instability of various cosmetic products for sustained and enhanced compound delivery to the beauty-based skin therapy. To overcome these disadvantages, nanosized delivery technologies are currently in use for sustained and enhanced delivery of phyto-derived bioactive compounds in cosmeceutical sectors and products. Nanosizing of phytocompounds enhances the aseptic feel in various cosmeceutical products with sustained delivery and enhanced skin protecting activities. Solid lipid nanoparticles, transfersomes, ethosomes, nanostructured lipid carriers, fullerenes, and carbon nanotubes are some of the emerging nanotechnologies currently in use for their enhanced delivery of phytocompounds in skin care. Aloe vera, curcumin, resveratrol, quercetin, vitamins C and E, genistein, and green tea catechins were successfully nanosized using various delivery technologies and incorporated in various gels, lotions, and creams for skin, lip, and hair care for their sustained effects. However, certain delivery agents such as carbon nanotubes need to be studied for their roles in toxicity. This review broadly focuses on the usage of phytocompounds in various cosmeceutical products, nanodelivery technologies used in the delivery of phytocompounds to various cosmeceuticals, and various nanosized phytocompounds used in the development of novel nanocosmeceuticals to enhance skin-based therapy.

An Evaluation of Root Phytochemicals Derived from Althea officinalis (Marshmallow) and Astragalus membranaceus as Potential Natural Components of UV Protecting Dermatological Formulations

As lifetime exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation has risen, the deleterious effects have also become more apparent. Numerous sunscreen and skincare products have therefore been developed to help reduce the occurrence of sunburn, photoageing, and skin carcinogenesis. This has stimulated research into identifying new natural sources of effective skin protecting compounds. Alkaline single-cell gel electrophoresis (comet assay) was employed to assess aqueous extracts derived from soil or hydroponically glasshouse-grown roots of Althea officinalis (Marshmallow) and Astragalus membranaceus, compared with commercial, field-grown roots. Hydroponically grown root extracts from both plant species were found to significantly reduce UVA-induced DNA damage in cultured human lung and skin fibroblasts, although initial Astragalus experimentation detected some genotoxic effects, indicating that Althea root extracts may be better suited as potential constituents of dermatological formulations. Glasshouse-grown soil and hydroponic Althea root extracts afforded lung fibroblasts with statistically significant protection against UVA irradiation for a greater period of time than the commercial field-grown roots. No significant reduction in DNA damage was observed when total ultraviolet irradiation (including UVB) was employed (data not shown), indicating that the extracted phytochemicals predominantly protected against indirect UVA-induced oxidative stress. Althea phytochemical root extracts may therefore be useful components in dermatological formulations.

Carotenoids exclusively synthesized in red pepper (capsanthin and capsorubin) protect human dermal fibroblasts against UVB induced DNA damage

Capsanthin and capsorubin, carotenoids exclusively synthesized in red pepper, protect human dermal fibroblasts against UVB induced DNA damage.

Modulation of Aromatase by Phytoestrogens

The aromatase enzyme catalyzes the conversion of androgens to estrogens in many human tissues. Estrogens are known to stimulate cellular proliferation associated with certain cancers and protect against adverse symptoms during the peri- and postmenopausal intervals. Phytoestrogens are a group of plant derived naturally occurring compounds that have chemical structures similar to estrogen. Since phytoestrogens are known to be constituents of animal/human food sources, these compounds have received increased research attention. Phytoestrogens may contribute to decreased cancer risk by the inhibition of aromatase enzyme activity and CYP19 gene expression in human tissues. This review covers (a) the aromatase enzyme (historical descriptions on function, activity, and gene characteristics), (b) phytoestrogens in their classifications and applications to human health, and (c) a chronological coverage of aromatase activity modulated by phytoestrogens from the early 1980s to 2015. In general, phytoestrogens act as aromatase inhibitors by (a) decreasing aromatase gene expression, (b) inhibiting the aromatase enzyme itself, or (c) in some cases acting at both levels of regulation. The findings presented herein are consistent with estrogen's impact on health and phytoestrogen's potential as anticancer treatments, but well-controlled, large-scale studies are warranted to determine the effectiveness of phytoestrogens on breast cancer and age-related diseases.

Role of micronutrients in skin health and function

Skin is the first line of defense for protecting our bodies against external perturbations, including ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, mechanical/chemical stress, and bacterial infection. Nutrition is one of many factors required for the maintenance of overall skin health. An impaired nutritional status alters the structural integrity and biological function of skin, resulting in an abnormal skin barrier. In particular, the importance of micronutrients (such as certain vitamins and minerals) for skin health has been highlighted in cell culture, animal, and clinical studies. These micronutrients are employed not only as active compounds in therapeutic agents for treating certain skin diseases, but also as ingredients in cosmetic products. Here, the author describes the barrier function of the skin and the general nutritional requirements for skin health. The goal of this review is to discuss the potential roles and current knowledge of selected micronutrients in skin health and function.

Antioxidant, cell-protective, and anti-melanogenic activities of leaf extracts from wild bitter melon (Momordica charantia Linn. var. abbreviata Ser.) cultivars

BACKGROUND

Several wild bitter melon (WBM; Momordica charantia Linn. var. abbreviata Ser.) cultivars were developed in Taiwan. However, little information is available regarding biological function of WBM leaf. Therefore, the objectives of this study were to investigate the nutrient content, antioxidant, cell protection and anti-melanogenic properties of wild bitter melon leaf.

RESULTS

Methanolic leaf extracts were prepared from a variety and two cultivars of WBM. All extracts exerted potent nitric oxide and hydroxyl radical scavenging capacities. Furthermore, all extracts effectively reduce the production of reactive oxygen species and prevent cell death in UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocytes. The cell protective effect of leaf extract was also investigated by the prevention of HaCaT cells from sodium nitroprusside or menadione-induced toxicity, and significant cyto-protective activities were observed for all of them. Additionally, all extracts significantly suppressed tyrosinase activity and melanin levels in B16-F10 melanocytes.

CONCLUSIONS

WBM leaf extract showed significant antioxidant, cyto-protective and anti-melanogenic activities. These findings suggested that WBM leaves may be beneficial for preventing the photo-oxidative damage and melanogenesis of skin.

Lutein in food supplements available on the markets of the Viszegrad countries

RP-HPLC method with UV-VIS detection was implemented for determination of contents of lutein in food supplements available on the markets in the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland, and Hungary. Altogether, 48 samples of food supplements in three dosage forms (22 samples of tablets, 18 samples of soft capsules, and 8 samples of hard capsules) were analysed. The amounts of lutein specified by the producer complied with their real contents only in 7 samples of the food supplements. Lutein in soft capsules showed the highest stability against oxidation; lutein in tablets was more prone to oxidation and lutein in hard capsules was most susceptible to oxidation process. Out of 21 Czech products, only four fell into the category of satisfactory products, three of them were soft capsules and one was a tablet. Out of 27 products manufactured abroad, only three were evaluated as satisfactory products, all of them were soft capsules, out of 48 analysed food supplement samples just seven fell into the category of satisfactory preparations, eight were evaluated as less satisfactory preparations, five were found inadequate products and 28 samples were labelled unsatisfactory. Only one in six analyzed samples contained the amount of lutein specified by the manufacturer, almost 60% of monitored lutein containing food supplement samples fell into the unsatisfactory product category. 

Gallic acid regulates skin photoaging in UVB-exposed fibroblast and hairless mice

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the primary factor in skin photoaging, which is characterized by wrinkle formation, dryness, and thickening. The mechanisms underlying skin photoaging are closely associated with degradation of collagen via upregulation of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) activity, which is induced by reactive oxygen species (ROS) production. Gallic acid (GA), a phenolic compound, possesses a variety of biological activities including antioxidant and antiinflammatory activities. We investigated the protective effects of GA against photoaging caused by UVB irradiation using normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) in vitro and hairless mice in vivo. The production levels of ROS, interlukin-6, and MMP-1 were significantly suppressed, and type I procollagen expression was stimulated in UVB-irradiated and GA-treated NHDFs. GA treatment inhibited the activity of transcription factor activation protein 1. The effects of GA following topical application and dietary administration were examined by measuring wrinkle formation, histological modification, protein expression, and physiological changes such as stratum corneum hydration, transepidermal water loss, and erythema index. We found that GA decreased dryness, skin thickness, and wrinkle formation via negative modulation of MMP-1 secretion and positive regulation of elastin, type I procollagen, and transforming growth factor-β1. Our data indicate that GA is a potential candidate for the prevention of UVB-induced premature skin aging.

Active ingredients against human epidermal aging

The decisive role of the epidermis in maintaining body homeostasis prompted studies to evaluate the changes in epidermal structure and functionality over the lifetime. This development, along with the identification of molecular mechanisms of epidermal signaling, maintenance, and differentiation, points to a need for new therapeutic alternatives to treat and prevent skin aging. In addition to recovering age- and sun-compromised functions, proper treatment of the epidermis has important esthetic implications. This study reviews active ingredients capable of counteracting symptoms of epidermal aging, organized according to the regulation of specific age-affected epidermal functions: (1) several compounds, other than retinoids and derivatives, act on the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, supporting the protective barrier against mechanical and chemical insults; (2) natural lipidic compounds, as well as glycerol and urea, are described as agents for maintaining water-ion balance; (3) regulation of immunological pathogen defense can be reinforced by natural extracts and compounds, such as resveratrol; and (4) antioxidant exogenous sources enriched with flavonoids and vitamin C, for example, improve solar radiation protection and epidermal antioxidant activity. The main objective is to provide a functional classification of active ingredients as regulatory elements of epidermal homeostasis, with potential cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

Chronic exposure to Rhodobacter sphaeroides extract Lycogen™ prevents UVA-induced malondialdehyde accumulation and procollagen I down-regulation in human dermal fibroblasts

UVA contributes to the pathogenesis of skin aging by downregulation of procollagen I content and induction of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-associated responses. Application of antioxidants such as lycopene has been demonstrated as a convenient way to achieve protection against skin aging. Lycogen™, derived from the extracts of Rhodobacter sphaeroides, exerts several biological effects similar to that of lycopene whereas most of its anti-aging efficacy remains uncertain. In this study, we attempted to examine whether Lycogen™ could suppress malondialdehyde (MDA) accumulation and restore downregulated procollagen I expression induced by UVA exposure. In human dermal fibroblasts Hs68 cells, UVA repressed cell viability and decreased procollagen I protein content accompanied with the induction of MMP-1 and MDA accumulation. Remarkably, incubation with 50 μM Lycogen™ for 24 h ameliorated UVA-induced cell death and restored UVA-induced downregulation of procollagen in a dose-related manner. Lycogen™ treatment also prevented the UVA-induced MMP-1 upregulation and intracellular MDA generation in Hs68 cells. Activation of NFκB levels, one of the downstream events induced by UVA irradiation and MMP-1 induction, were also prevented by Lycogen™ administration. Taken together, our findings demonstrate that Lycogen™ may be an alternative agent that prevents UVA-induced skin aging and could be used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.