Natural skin-whitening compounds for the treatment of melanogenesis (Review)

Ethyl Acetate Fraction from Eleutherococcus divaricatus Root Extract as a Promising Source of Compounds with Anti-Hyaluronidase, Anti-Tyrosinase, and Antioxidant Activity but Not Anti-Melanoma Activity

Eleutherococcus divaricatus (Siebold and Zucc.) S. Y. Hu. has been used in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) due to its anticancer, immunostimulant, and anti-inflammatory activities. However, its mechanism of action and chemical composition are still insufficiently understood and require more advanced research, especially for cases in which anti-inflammatory properties are beneficial. The aim of this study was to evaluate the impact of E. divaricatus root extracts and fractions on proinflammatory serum hyaluronidase and tyrosinase in children diagnosed with acute lymphoblastic leukemia. Antioxidant and anti-melanoma activities were also examined and correlated with metabolomic data. For the first time, we discovered that the ethyl acetate fraction significantly inhibits hyaluronidase activity, with mean group values of 55.82% and 63.8% for aescin used as a control. However, interestingly, the fraction showed no activity against human tyrosinase, and in A375 melanoma cells treated with a doxorubicin fraction, doxorubicin activity decreased. This fraction exhibited the most potent antioxidant activity, which can be attributed to high contents of polyphenols, especially caffeic acid (24 mg/g). The findings suggest an important role of the ethyl acetate fraction in hyaluronidase inhibition, which may additionally indicate its anti-inflammatory property. The results suggest that this fraction can be used in inflammatory-related diseases, although with precautions in cases of patients undergoing chemotherapy.

The Role of Quercetin as a Plant-Derived Bioactive Agent in Preventive Medicine and Treatment in Skin Disorders

Quercetin, a bioactive plant flavonoid, is an antioxidant, and as such it exhibits numerous beneficial properties including anti-inflammatory, antiallergic, antibacterial and antiviral activity. It occurs naturally in fruit and vegetables such as apples, blueberries, cranberries, lettuce, and is present in plant waste such as onion peel or grape pomace which constitute good sources of quercetin for technological or pharmaceutical purposes. The presented study focuses on the role of quercetin in prevention and treatment of dermatological diseases analyzing its effect at a molecular level, its signal transduction and metabolism. Presented aspects of quercetin potential for skin treatment include protection against aging and UV radiation, stimulation of wound healing, reduction in melanogenesis, and prevention of skin oxidation. The article discusses quercetin sources (plant waste products included), methods of its medical administration, and perspectives for its further use in dermatology and diet therapy.

Phenylalanine Butyramide: A Butyrate Derivative as a Novel Inhibitor of Tyrosinase

Metabolites resulting from the bacterial fermentation of dietary fibers, such as short-chain fatty acids, especially butyrate, play important roles in maintaining gut health and regulating various biological effects in the skin. However, butyrate is underutilized due to its unpleasant odor. To circumvent this organoleptic unfavorable property, phenylalanine butyramide (PBA), a butyrate precursor, has been synthesized and is currently available on the market. We evaluated the inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase by butyrate and PBA through in vitro assays, finding IC50 values of 34.7 mM and 120.3 mM, respectively. Docking calculations using a homology model of human tyrosinase identified a putative binding mode of PBA into the catalytic site. The anti-aging and anti-spot efficacy of topical PBA was evaluated in a randomized, double-blind, parallel-arm, placebo-controlled clinical trial involving 43 women affected by photo-damage. The results of this study showed that PBA significantly improved skin conditions compared to the placebo and was well tolerated. Specifically, PBA demonstrated strong skin depigmenting activity on both UV and brown spots (UV: -12.7% and -9.9%, Bs: -20.8% and -17.7% after 15 and 30 days, respectively, p < 0.001). Moreover, PBA brightened and lightened the skin (ITA°: +12% and 13% after 15 and 30 days, respectively, p < 0.001). Finally, PBA significantly improved skin elasticity (Ua/Uf: +12.4% and +32.3% after 15 and 30 days, respectively, p < 0.001) and firmness (Uf: -3.2% and -14.9% after 15 and 30 days, respectively, p < 0.01).

Establishment of an in vitro cell coculture model for investigating the whitening mechanism of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil

BACKGROUND

In vitro single-cell experiments may yield inconsistent results compared to clinical trials. To enhance the reliability of cosmetic active ingredient screening, a coculture model of B16F10-HaCaT cells was established in vitro based on the structural characteristics of human skin, thereby improving the credibility of experimental outcomes. Currently, most cosmetic whitening additives primarily target simple efficacy goals such as inhibiting tyrosinase activity or melanin transfer. Therefore, investigating novel and efficient whitening additives has become a prominent research focus.

OBJECTIVES

The aim is to establish an in vitro cell coculture model for more reliable experimental results and investigate the mechanism by which Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil inhibits melanin production and transfer.

METHODS

The impact of different concentrations of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on cocultured cell proliferation rate was assessed using cck8 assay. Tyrosinase inhibition ability in cocultured cells was tested using levodopa as a substrate. Melanin production inhibition ability in coculture cells was evaluated by lysing cells with sodium hydroxide. The effect of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on dendrite-related gene expression levels was examined through qPCR analysis. Additionally, Western blotting was employed to study the effect of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on dendrite-related protein expression levels.

RESULTS

Different concentrations of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil did not affect the proliferation activity of cocultured cells. A specific concentration of α-MSH increased cell tyrosinase activity, cellular melanin content, as well as Rac1, Cdc42, and PAR-2 gene and protein expression related to dendritic formation. Treatment with a certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil resulted in decreased tyrosinase activity and melanin content in cells along with downregulated expression levels of Rac1, Cdc42, and PAR-2 genes and proteins associated with dendritic formation.

CONCLUSIONS

Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil at specific concentrations exhibits the ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity, decrease melanin content, and possesses the potential to impede melanin transfer.

Resveratrol-Enriched Rice Callus Extract Inhibits Oxidative and Cellular Melanogenic Activities in Melan-A Cells

The excessive production of melanin can cause skin diseases and hyperpigmentation. In this study, resveratrol contained in Dongjin rice seed (DJ526) was increased through callus induction. The antioxidant capacity of resveratrol-enriched rice callus was evaluated using the ABTS radical scavenging method and was equivalent to that of vitamin C. DJ526 rice callus extract significantly increased antioxidant activities in a concentration-dependent manner. The anti-melanogenesis effects of DJ526 rice callus extract were also evaluated in melan-a cells. Resveratrol-enriched rice callus extract significantly (i) decreased the size and number of melanin-containing cells, (ii) suppressed the activity of cellular tyrosinase and melanin content, (iii) downregulated the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1, and tyrosinase-related protein-2, (iv) increased the expression of phosphorylated extracellular signal-regulated kinase 1/2 and protein kinase B, and (v) inhibited the activation of phosphorylated p38 in melan-a cells. From the above observations, DJ526 rice callus extract showed strong antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activity at the concentration test. These findings indicate the potential of resveratrol-enriched rice callus as a novel agent for controlling hyperpigmentation.

Tricholoma matsutake polysaccharides suppress excessive melanogenesis via JNK-mediated pathway: Investigation in 8- methoxypsoralen induced B16-F10 melanoma cells and clinical study

Skin hyperpigmentation is a worldwide condition associated with augmented melanogenesis. However, conventional therapies often entail various adverse effects. Here, we explore the safety range and depigmentary effects of polysaccharides extract of Tricholoma matsutake (PETM) in an in vitro model and further evaluated its efficacy at the clinical level. An induced-melanogenesis model was established by treating B16-F10 melanoma cells with 8-methoxypsoralen (8-MOP). Effects of PETM on cell viability and melanin content were examined and compared to a commonly used depigmentary agent, α-arbutin. Expressions of key melanogenic factors and upstream signaling pathway were analysed by quantitative PCR and western blot. Moreover, a placebo-controlled clinical study involving Chinese females with skin hyperpigmentation was conducted to measure the efficacy of PETM on improving facial pigmented spots, melanin index, and individual typology angle (ITA°). Results demonstrated that PETM (up to 0.5 mg/mL) had little effect on the viability and motility of B16-F10 cells. Notably, it significantly suppressed the melanin content and expressions of key melanogenic factors induced by 8-MOP in B16-F10 melanoma cells. Western blotting results revealed that PETM inhibited melanogenesis by inactivating c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), and this inhibitory role could be rescued by JNK agonist treatment. Clinical findings showed that PETM treatment resulted in a significant reduction of facial hyperpigmented spot, decreased melanin index, and improved ITA° value compared to the placebo-control group. In conclusion, these in vitro and clinical evidence demonstrated the safety and depigmentary efficacy of PETM, a novel polysaccharide agent. The distinct mechanism of action of PETM on melanogenic signaling pathway positions it as a promising agent for developing alternative therapies.

Ribosomal S6 kinase 2-forkhead box protein O4 signaling pathway plays an essential role in melanogenesis

Although previous studies have examined the signaling pathway involved in melanogenesis through which ultraviolet (UV) or α-melanocyte-stimulating hormones (α-MSH) stimuli act as key inducers to produce melanin at the stratum basal layer of the epidermis, the signaling pathway regulating melanogenesis is still controversial. This study reports that α-MSH, not UVA and UVB, acted as a major stimulus of melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. Signaling pathway analysis using gene knockdown technology and chemical inhibitors, the mitogen-activated protein kinase kinase (MEK)/extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK)/p90 ribosomal S6 kinase 2 (RSK2) played an important role in melanogenesis. Unexpectedly, LY294002, a PI3K inhibitor, increased melanogenesis without UV or α-MSH stimulation, suggesting that the PI3K/AKT signaling pathway may not be a major signaling pathway for melanogenesis. Chemical inhibition of the MEKs/ERKs/RSK2 signaling pathway using U0126 or BI-D1870 suppressed melanogenesis by stimulation of UVA or α-MSH stimulation, or both. In particular, the genetic depletion of RSK2 or constitutive active (CA)-RSK2 overexpression showed that RSK2 plays a key role in melanogenesis. Interestingly, forkhead box protein O4 (FOXO4) was phosphorylated by RSK2, resulting in the increase of FOXO4's transactivation activity. Notably, the FOXO4 mutant harboring serine-to-alanine replacement at the phosphorylation sites totally abrogated the transactivation activity and reduced melanin production, indicating that RSK2-mediated FOXO4 activity plays a key role in melanogenesis. Furthermore, kaempferol, a flavonoid inhibiting the RSK2 activity, suppressed melanogenesis. In addition, FOXO4-wt overexpression showed that FOXO4 enhance melanin synthesis. Overall, the RSK2-FOXO4 signaling pathway plays a key role in modulating melanogenesis.

Design and synthesis of novel dihydropyridine- and benzylideneimine-based tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinase (TYR) inhibitors are very significant as they inhibit enzyme tyrosinase activity, and its inhibition is vital for skin care, anticancer medication, and antibrowning of fruits and vegetables. This work presents a novel and economical route for the preparation of new synthetic tyrosinase inhibitors using amlodipine (4). The novel conjugates 6 (a-o) were designed, synthesized, and characterized by spectroscopic analyses, including Fourier transform infrared and low- and high-resolution mass spectroscopy. The purified compound 4 was refluxed with various aldehydes and ketones 5 (a-o) for 5-8 h in methanol at 60°C-90°C. This research modified the drug in a step-by-step manner to develop therapeutic properties as a tyrosinase inhibitor. The structures of synthesized ligands 6 (a-o) were established based on spectral and analytical data. The synthesized compounds 6 (a-o) were screened against tyrosinase enzyme. Kojic acid was taken as standard. All the prepared compounds 6 (a-o) have good inhibition potential against the enzyme tyrosinase. Compounds 6o, 6b, 6f, and 6k depicted excellent antityrosinase activity. Compound 6k, with an IC50 value of 5.34 ± 0.58 µM, is as potent as the standard kojic acid (IC50 6.04 ± 0.11 µM), standing out among all synthesized compounds 6 (a-o). The in silico studies of the conjugates 6 (a-o) were evaluated via PatchDock. Compound 6k showed a binding affinity score of 8,999 and an atomic contact energy (ACE) value of -219.66 kcal/mol. The structure-activity relationship illustrated that the presence of dihydropyridine nuclei and some activating groups at the ortho and para positions of the benzylideneimine moiety is the main factor for good tyrosinase activity. The compound 6k could be used as a lead compound for drug modification as a tyrosinase inhibitor for skin care, anticancer medication, and antibrowning for fruits and vegetables.

Skin healthcare protection with antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activity of polysaccharide purification from Bletilla striata

In this study, we investigated the structural characterization and biological activities of Bletilla striata polysaccharides (BSPs) for their role as antioxidants and anti-melanogenesis agents in skin healthcare protection. Three neutral polysaccharides (BSP-1, BSP-2, and BSP-3) with molecular weights of 269.121 kDa, 57.389 kDa, and 28.153 kDa were extracted and purified. Their structural characteristics were analyzed by ion chromatography, GC-MS, and 1D/2D NMR. The results showed that BSP-1, which constitutes the major part of BSPs, was composed of α-D-Glcp, β-D-Glcp, β-D-Manp, and 2-O-acetyl-β-D-Manp, with the branched-chain accompanied by β-D-Galp and α-D-Glcp. BSP-1, BSP-2, and BSP-3 can enhance the total antioxidant capacity of skin fibroblasts with non-toxicity. Meanwhile, BSP-1, BSP-2, and BSP-3 could significantly inhibit the proliferative activity of melanoma cells. Among them, BSP-1 and BSP-2 showed more significance in anti-melanogenesis, tyrosinase inhibition activity, and cell migration inhibition. BSPs have effective antioxidant capacity and anti-melanogenesis effects, which should be further emphasized and developed as skin protection components.

The in vitro and in vivo depigmentation activity of coenzyme Q0, a major quinone derivative from Antrodia camphorata, through autophagy induction in human melanocytes and keratinocytes

BACKGROUND

Coenzyme Q0 (CoQ0), a novel quinone derivative of Antrodia camphorata, has been utilized as a therapeutic agent (including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antiangiogenic, antiatherosclerotic, and anticancer agents); however, its depigmenting efficiency has yet to be studied.

METHODS

We resolved the depigmenting efficiency of CoQ0 through autophagy induction in melanoma (B16F10) and melanin-feeding keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells and in vivo Zebrafish model. Then, MPLC/HPLC analysis, MTT assay, Western blotting, immunofluorescence staining, LC3 transfection, melanin formation, GFP-LC3 puncta, AVO formation, tyrosinase activity, and TEM were used.

RESULTS

CoQ0-induced autophagy in B16F10 cells was shown by enhanced LC3-II accumulation, ATG7 expression, autophagosome GFP-LC3 puncta, and AVOs formation, and ATG4B downregulation, and Beclin-1/Bcl-2 dysregulation. In α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells, CoQ0 induced antimelanogenesis by suppressing CREB-MITF pathway, tyrosinase expression/activity, and melanin formation via autophagy. TEM data disclosed that CoQ0 increased melanosome-engulfing autophagosomes and autolysosomes in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. CoQ0-inhibited melanogenesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells was reversed by pretreatment with the autophagy inhibitor 3-MA or silencing of LC3. Additionally, CoQ0-induced autophagy in HaCaT cells was revealed by enhanced LC3-II accumulation, autophagosome GFP-LC3 puncta and AVO formation, ATG4B downregulation, ATG5/ATG7 expression, and Beclin-1/Bcl-2 dysregulation. In melanin-feeding HaCaT cells, CoQ0 induced melanin degradation by suppressing melanosome gp100 and melanin formation via autophagy. TEM confirmed that CoQ0 increased melanosome-engulfing autophagosomes and autolysosomes in melanin-feeding HaCaT cells. Treatment with 3-MA reversed CoQ0-mediated melanin degradation in melanin-feeding HaCaT cells. In vivo study showed that CoQ0 suppressed endogenous body pigmentation by antimelanogenesis and melanin degradation through autophagy induction in a zebrafish model.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results showed that CoQ0 exerted antimelanogenesis and melanin degradation by inducing autophagy. CoQ0 could be used in skin-whitening formulations as a topical cosmetic application.

Screening of Key Components for Melanogenesis Inhibition of Polygonum cuspidatum Extract Based on the Spectrum-Effect Relationship and Molecular Docking

Polygonum cuspidatum (PC) extract has been listed in the "Catalog of Used Cosmetic Ingredients (2021 Edition)", which can inhibit melanogenesis, thus exerting a whitening effect, and has been widely used in cosmetics. However, there are currently no quality standards for PC extract used in cosmetics, and the bioactive components associated with anti-melanogenesis remain unclear. In view of this, the present study was the first to investigate the spectrum-effect relationship between fingerprints of PC extract and melanogenesis inhibition. Ten batches of PC extract fingerprints were established by HPLC. Pearson's correlation analysis, gray correlation analysis (GRA) and orthogonal partial least squares regression analysis (OPLSR) were used to screen out resveratrol, emodin and physcion as the main whitening active ingredients using the inhibition of tyrosinase in B16F10 cells as the pharmacological index. Then, the melanogenesis inhibitory effects of the above three components were verified by tyrosinase inhibition and a melanin content assay in B16F10 cells. The interaction between small molecules and proteins was investigated by the molecular docking method, and it was confirmed by quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR) that resveratrol, emodin and physcion significantly down-regulated the transcript levels of melanogenesis-related factors. In conclusion, this study established a general model combining HPLC fingerprinting and melanogenesis inhibition and also analyzed the spectrum-effect relationship of PC extract, which provided theoretical support for the quality control of PC extract in whitening cosmetics.

Low-dose imiquimod induces melanogenesis in melanoma cells through an ROS-mediated pathway

BACKGROUND

Melanogenesis is the process of melanin maturation which not only protects skin from UV radiation but also plays an important role in antigenicity of melanomas. Imiquimod (IMQ) is a toll-like receptor 7 (TLR7) agonist that exhibits antiviral and anticancer activity.

OBJECTIVE

To explore whether IMQ could induce melanogenesis in melanoma cells.

METHODS

The mouse melanoma cell line B16F10, the mouse immortalized melanocyte Melan-A, and human melanoma cell lines MNT-1, C32 and A375 were utilized in this study. The pigmented level was observed by the centrifuged cell pellet. The intracellular and extracellular melanin levels were examined in the absorbance in NaOH-extracted cell lysate and cell-cultured medium, respectively. The expression of melanogenesis related proteins was examined by immunoblotting. The intracellular cyclic AMP amount was evaluated by the cAMP Glo assay kit. The activity of phosphodiesterase 4B (PDE4B) was investigated by CREB reporter assay with overexpressed PDE4B or not.

RESULTS

We demonstrated that a low dose of IMQ could trigger melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. IMQ induced microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) nuclear translocation, upregulated the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins, increased tyrosinase (TYR) activity, and led to pigmentation in B16F10 cells. Next, we found that IMQ-induced melanogenesis was activated by excessive intracellular cAMP accumulation, which was regulated through IMQ-mediated PDE4B inhibition. Finally, IMQ-induced ROS production was found to be involved in melanogenesis by its control of PDE4B activity.

CONCLUSIONS

Low dose of IMQ could activate melanogenesis through the ROS/PDE4B/PKA pathway in melanoma cells.

Experimental and theoretical studies on inhibition against tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis by antioxidant ergothioneine

Ergothioneine, a natural derivative of histidine with a thiol/thine tautomeric structure, exhibits exceptional antioxidant properties and inhibition activities on tyrosinase. In this study, enzyme kinetics experiments and chromatographic spectral analysis revealed that ergothioneine inhibited tyrosinase in a reversible and non-competitive manner, with an inhibition constant of 0.554 mg/mL (2.41 mM). As the concentration of ergothioneine increased, the extremely flexible loop structure of tyrosinase extended from 40.1 % to 41.0 %, effectively covering the active center or binding site. Theoretical molecular docking simulation results show that ergothioneine forms complexes with tyrosinase through hydrogen bonding and salt bridges in the active center of Cu ions. Additionally, it was observed that ergothioneine's antioxidant had a stronger reducing impact on dopaquinone, an intermediate in melanin production, than the effect of ascorbic acid at an equivalent concentration (0.5 mg/mL). Ergothioneine reduced the intracellular reactive oxygen species to lower levels than the control group without UVA radiation and regulated the proliferation and differentiation in B16-F10 melanocytes. Clinical trials have shown that a 0.1 % concentration of ergothioneine can effectively suppress melanin production in irradiated skin. The significant reduction in melanin index and an increase in the individual type angle (ITA°) degree were measured after 4 weeks. These results collectively suggest that ergothioneine may be a promising inhibitor of natural antioxidant tyrosinase. Furthermore, due to its safety and efficacy, ergothioneine could be considered one of the bioactive substances for further study on diseases related to melanin production and tyrosinase activity which is of great significance for the cosmetics, medicine and food industries.

Anti-Melanogenic Effects of Lilium lancifolium Root Extract via Downregulation of PKA/CREB and MAPK/CREB Signaling Pathways in B16F10 Cells

Hyperpigmentation disorders causing emotional distress require the topical use of depigmenting agents of natural origin. In this study, the anti-melanogenic effects of the Lilium lancifolium root extract (LRE) were investigated in B16F10 cells. Consequently, a non-cytotoxic concentration of the extract reduced intracellular melanin content and tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner, correlating with the diminished expression of core melanogenic enzymes within cells. LRE treatment also inhibited cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) response element-binding protein (CREB)/microphthalmia-associated transcription factor signaling, which regulates the expression of tyrosinase-related genes. Upon examining these findings from a molecular mechanism perspective, LRE treatment suppressed the phosphorylation of protein kinase A (PKA), p38, and extracellular signal-related kinase (ERK), which are upstream regulators of CREB. In addition, L-phenylalanine and regaloside A, specifically identified within the LRE using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, exhibited inhibitory effects on melanin production. Collectively, these results imply that LRE potentially suppresses cAMP-mediated melanogenesis by downregulating PKA/CREB and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/CREB signaling pathways. Therefore, it can be employed as a novel therapeutic ingredient of natural origin to ameliorate hyperpigmentation disorders.

Sensitive Quantitative In Vivo Assay for Evaluating the Effects of Biomolecules on Hair Growth and Coloring Using Direct Microinjections into Mouse Whisker Follicles

Many people suffer from hair loss and abnormal skin pigmentation, highlighting the need for simple assays to support drug discovery research. Current assays have various limitations, such as being in vitro only, not sensitive enough, or unquantifiable. We took advantage of the bilateral symmetry and large size of mouse whisker follicles to develop a novel in vivo assay called "whisker follicle microinjection assay". In this assay, we plucked mouse whiskers and then injected molecules directly into one side of the whisker follicles using microneedles that were a similar size to the whiskers, and we injected solvent on the other side as a control. Once the whiskers grew out again, we quantitatively measured their length and color intensity to evaluate the effects of the molecules on hair growth and coloring. Several chemicals and proteins were used to test this assay. The chemicals minoxidil and ruxolitinib, as well as the protein RSPO1, promoted hair growth. The effect of the clinical drug minoxidil could be detected at a concentration as low as 0.001%. The chemical deoxyarbutin inhibited melanin production. The protein Nbl1 was identified as a novel hair-growth inhibitor. In conclusion, we successfully established a sensitive and quantitative in vivo assay to evaluate the effects of chemicals and proteins on hair growth and coloring and identified a novel regulator by using this assay. This whisker follicle microinjection assay will be useful when investigating protein functions and when developing drugs to treat hair loss and abnormal skin pigmentation.

Topical Application of No-Ozone Cold Plasma in Combination with Vitamin C Reduced Skin Redness and Pigmentation of UV-Irradiated Mice

Ultraviolet (UV) is the main cause of sunburn on the skin as it induces erythema and accelerates pigmentation. Vitamin C is one of the most frequently used compounds to reduce UV-induced skin pigmentation, but it has limitations in absorption through the skin. In this study, we tested whether a no-ozone cold plasma (NCP) treatment can improve UV-irradiated skin by helping the action of Vitamin C. For this, among five groups of HRM-2 hairless mice, four groups of mice were subjected to UVB irradiation, and three groups of UVB-treated mice were treated with NCP, Vitamin C, and NCP + Vitamin C, respectively. For evaluating the effect of each treatment, the melanin and erythema index was measured during animal experiments. Histological changes were monitored by performing H&E and MTS and IHC against tyrosinase and melanin. As a result, the naturally recovered mice showed a 28-point decrease in the melanin index, whereas a decrease of around 88, 74.3, and 106 points was detected in NCP-, Vitamin C-, and NCP + vitamin C-treated mice, respectively. Likewise, only a 39-point reduction in the erythema index was monitored in naturally recovered mice, but the NCP-, vitamin C-, and NCP + vitamin C-treated mice showed a 87.3-, 77-, and 111-point reduction, respectively. Interestingly, the skin tissues of the mice treated with NCP in combination with Vitamin C mostly recovered from UVB-induced damage. Altogether, this study elucidated the beneficial effect of the treatment of NCP in combination with Vitamin C on the UVB-irradiated skin, which might be helpful for treating sunburn on the skin.

Creb2 involved in innate immunity by activating PpMitf-mediated melanogenesis in Pteria penguin

cAMP response element binding protein 2 (CREB2) acts as an intracellular transcriptional factor and regulates many physiological processes, including melanogenesis and melanocyte differentiation. In our previous research, the Creb2 gene has been characterized from Pteria penguin (P. penguin), but its role and regulatory mechanism in P. penguin are still unclear. In this study, first, the function of PpCreb2 in melanogenesis and innate immunity were identified. PpCreb2 silencing significantly decreased the tyrosinase activity and melanin content, indicating PpCreb2 played an important role in melanogenesis. Meanwhile, PpCreb2 silencing visibly suppressed the antibacterial activity of hemolymph supernatant, indicating that PpCreb2 was involved in innate immunity of P. penguin. Second, the PpCreb2 was confirmed to perform immune function by regulating the melanogenesis. The decreased melanin oxidation product due to PpCreb2 silencing triggered the declining of antibacterial activity of hemolymph supernatant, which then could be rescued by adding exogenous melanin oxidation products. Third, the regulation pathway of PpCreb2 involved in innate immunity was analyzed. The promoter sequence analysis of PpMitf discovered 5 conserved cAMP response element (CRE), which were specifically recognized by basic Leucine zipper domain (bZIP) of upstream activation transcription factor. The luciferase activities analysis showed that PpCreb2 could activate the CRE in PpMitf promoter via highly conserved bZIP domain and regulate the expression of PpMitf, which further regulated the PpTyr expression. Therefore, the results collectively demonstrated that PpCreb2 participated in innate immunity by activating PpMitf-mediated melanogenesis in P. penguin.

Neurog1-Derived Peptides RMNE1 and DualPep-Shine Penetrate the Skin and Inhibit Melanin Synthesis by Regulating MITF Transcription

Anti-pigmentation peptides have been developed as alternative skin-lightening agents to replace conventional chemicals that have adverse effects on the skin. However, the maximum size of these peptides is often limited by their low skin and cell penetration. To address this issue, we used our intra-dermal delivery technology (IDDT) platform to identify peptides with hypo-pigmenting and high cell-penetrating activity. Using our cell-penetrating peptides (CPPs) from the IDDT platform, we identified RMNE1 and its derivative RMNE3, "DualPep-Shine", which showed levels of α-Melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin inhibition comparable to the conventional tyrosinase inhibitor, Kojic acid. In addition, DualPep-Shine was delivered into the nucleus and regulated the gene expression levels of melanogenic enzymes by inhibiting the promoter activity of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor-M (MITF-M). Using a 3D human skin model, we found that DualPep-Shine penetrated the lower region of the epidermis and reduced the melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, DualPep-Shine showed high safety with little immunogenicity, indicating its potential as a novel cosmeceutical ingredient and anti-pigmentation therapeutic agent.

Dimethyl Itaconate Inhibits Melanogenesis in B16F10 Cells

Itaconate is a metabolite produced to counteract and resolve pro-inflammatory responses when macrophages are challenged with intracellular or extracellular stimuli. In the present study, we have observed that dimethyl itaconate (DMI) inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. DMI inhibits microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and downregulates the expression of MITF target genes, such as tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2). DMI also decreases the level of melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) and the production of α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH), resulting in the inhibition of extracellular signal-regulated kinase 1/2 (ERK1/2) and MITF activities. The structure–activity relationship (SAR) study illustrates that the α,β-unsaturated carbonyl moiety in DMI, a moiety required to target KELCH-like ECH-associated protein 1 (KEAP1) to activate NF-E2-related factor 2 (NRF2), is necessary to inhibit melanogenesis and knocking down Nrf2 attenuates the inhibition of melanogenesis by DMI. Together, our study reveals that the MC1R-ERK1/2-MITF axis regulated by the KEAP1-NRF2 pathway is the molecular target responsible for the inhibition of melanogenesis by DMI.

The Skin-Whitening and Antioxidant Effects of Protocatechuic Acid (PCA) Derivatives in Melanoma and Fibroblast Cell Lines

The skin is the most voluminous organ of the human body and is exposed to the outer environment. Such exposed skin suffers from the effects of various intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors. Skin aging is characterized by features such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, and skin pigmentation. Skin pigmentation occurs in skin aging and is caused by hyper-melanogenesis and oxidative stress. Protocatechuic acid (PCA) is a natural secondary metabolite from a plant-based source widely used as a cosmetic ingredient. We chemically designed and synthesized PCA derivatives conjugated with alkyl esters to develop effective chemicals that have skin-whitening and antioxidant effects and enhance the pharmacological activities of PCA. We identified that melanin biosynthesis in B16 melanoma cells treated with alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) is decreased by PCA derivatives. We also found that PCA derivatives effectively have antioxidant effects in HS68 fibroblast cells. In this study, we suggest that our PCA derivatives are potent ingredients for developing cosmetics with skin-whitening and antioxidant effects.

Inhibition of Melanogenesis by Essential Oils from the Citrus Cultivars Peels

Citrus is one of the most popular and widely grown fruit crops in the world. However, the bioactivity of only certain species of citrus cultivars is studied. In this study, the effects of essential oils from 21 citrus cultivars on melanogenesis were investigated in an effort to identify active anti-melanogenesis constituents. The essential oils from the peels of 21 citrus cultivars obtained by hydro-distillation were analyzed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Mouse melanoma B16BL6 cells were used in all assays conducted in this study. The tyrosinase activity and melanin content were determined using the lysate of α-Melanocyte-stimulated B16BL6 cells. In addition, the melanogenic gene expression was determined by quantitative reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction. Overall, the essential oils of (Citrus unshiu X Citrus sinensis) X Citrus reticulata, Citrus reticulata, and ((Citrus unshiu X Citrus sinensis) X Citrus reticulata) X Citrus reticulata provided the best bioactivity and comprised five distinct constituents compared to other essential oils such as limonene, farnesene, β-elemene, terpinen-4-ol, and sabinene. The anti-melanogenesis activities of the five individual compounds were evaluated. Among the five essential oils, β-elemene, farnesene, and limonene showed dominating properties. The experimental results indicated that (Citrus unshiu X Citrus sinensis) X Citrus reticulata, Citrus reticulata, and ((Citrus unshiu X Citrus sinensis) X Citrus reticulata) X Citrus reticulara are potential candidates with anti-melanogenesis activity for use as cosmetics and pharmaceutical agents against skin hyperpigmentation.

Melanogenesis Inhibitory Activity, Chemical Components and Molecular Docking Studies of Prunus cerasoides Buch.-Ham. D. Don. Flowers

Safe depigmenting agents are currently increasing in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical industry because various compounds have been found to have undesirable side effects. Therefore, the present study aimed to investigate the melanogenesis inhibitory effects of Prunus cerasoides Buch. -Ham. D. Don. flower extracts and their molecular mechanism in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. Moreover, we also examined phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant activity, chemical constituents of potential extracts, and molecular docking. The highest phenolic and flavonoid contents with the greatest scavenging activity were found in the butanol extract of the P. cerasoides flower compared to other extracts. From all extracts, only crude, diethyl ether, and butanol extracts showed an inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity, cellular tyrosinase activity, and melanin content as well as the downregulation of the gene expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. Based on the molecular docking study, n-hexadecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, 9,12-octadecadienoic acid, 9,12,15-octadecanoic acid, and eicosanoic acid might show an inhibitory effect against tyrosinase and MITF. In conclusion, this finding demonstrates that both the diethyl ether and butanol extracts of the P. cerasoides flower can effectively reduce tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis through the downregulation of the melanogenic gene expression in B16F10 cells and through the molecular docking study. Taken together, the diethyl ether and butanol extracts of the P. cerasoides flower could be an anti-melanogenic ingredient for hyperpigmentary or melasma treatment.

Quercetin 3-O-Galactoside Isolated from Limonium tetragonum Inhibits Melanogenesis by Regulating PKA/MITF Signaling and ERK Activation

Quercetin 3-O-galactoside (Q3G) is a common dietary flavanol that has been shown to possess several bioactivities, including anti-melanogenesis. However, how Q3G exerts its anti-melanogenic effect has not been studied. The current study, therefore aimed to investigate the anti-melanogenesis potential of Q3G and elucidate the underlying action mechanism in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced hyperpigmentation model of B16F10 murine melanoma cells. Results showed that α-MSH stimulation significantly increased tyrosinase (TYR) and melanin production, which were significantly downregulated by Q3G treatment. The treatment with Q3G suppressed the transcriptional and protein expressions of melanogenesis-related enzymes TYR, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2, along with the melanogenic transcription factor microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in B16F10 cells. It was shown that Q3G downregulated MITF expression and suppressed its transcriptional activity by inhibiting the cAMP-dependent protein kinase A (PKA)-mediated activation of CREB and GSK3β. In addition, MAPK-regulated MITF activation signaling was also involved in the inhibition of melanin production by Q3G. The results suggest that the anti-melanogenic properties of Q3G rationalize further studies in vivo to confirm its action mechanism and consequent utilization as a cosmetic ingredient against hyperpigmentation.

Ligularia fischeri ethanol extract: An inhibitor of alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells

BACKGROUND

Ligularia fischeri is a perennial herb isolated from plants of the Asteraceae family. Ligularia fischeri is distributed throughout Korea, Japan, eastern Siberia, and China.

AIMS

The aim of this study is to examine the intracellular inhibitory effect of Ligularia fischeri ethanol extract on melanin synthesis and expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1 and 2. In addition, we analyzed the mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling pathway and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells.

METHODS

To assess the inhibition of melanogenesis in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the expression of melanogenesis-related genes was investigated by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction, while western blotting was performed to determine protein expression levels.

RESULTS

We confirmed that the ethanol extract of Ligularia fischeri inhibited melanin synthesis in vitro by decreasing tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1 and 2 expression. Furthermore, we revealed that tyrosinase expression was regulated by the suppression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor expression and activation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase phosphorylation. The ethanol extract of Ligularia fischeri inhibited melanogenesis by activating extracellular signal-regulated kinase phosphorylation and suppressing microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase expression.

CONCLUSIONS

Ligularia fischeri ethanol extract may be used as an effective skin whitening agent in functional cosmetics.

A Network of MicroRNAs and mRNAs Involved in Melanosome Maturation and Trafficking Defines the Lower Response of Pigmentable Melanoma Cells to Targeted Therapy

BACKGROUND

The ability to increase their degree of pigmentation is an adaptive response that confers pigmentable melanoma cells higher resistance to BRAF inhibitors (BRAFi) compared to non-pigmentable melanoma cells.

METHODS

Here, we compared the miRNome and the transcriptome profile of pigmentable 501Mel and SK-Mel-5 melanoma cells vs. non-pigmentable A375 melanoma cells, following treatment with the BRAFi vemurafenib (vem). In depth bioinformatic analyses (clusterProfiler, WGCNA and SWIMmeR) allowed us to identify the miRNAs, mRNAs and biological processes (BPs) that specifically characterize the response of pigmentable melanoma cells to the drug. Such BPs were studied using appropriate assays in vitro and in vivo (xenograft in zebrafish embryos).

RESULTS

Upon vem treatment, miR-192-5p, miR-211-5p, miR-374a-5p, miR-486-5p, miR-582-5p, miR-1260a and miR-7977, as well as GPR143, OCA2, RAB27A, RAB32 and TYRP1 mRNAs, are differentially expressed only in pigmentable cells. These miRNAs and mRNAs belong to BPs related to pigmentation, specifically melanosome maturation and trafficking. In fact, an increase in the number of intracellular melanosomes-due to increased maturation and/or trafficking-confers resistance to vem.

CONCLUSION

We demonstrated that the ability of pigmentable cells to increase the number of intracellular melanosomes fully accounts for their higher resistance to vem compared to non-pigmentable cells. In addition, we identified a network of miRNAs and mRNAs that are involved in melanosome maturation and/or trafficking. Finally, we provide the rationale for testing BRAFi in combination with inhibitors of these biological processes, so that pigmentable melanoma cells can be turned into more sensitive non-pigmentable cells.

Morus alba L. root decreases melanin synthesis via sphingosine-1-phosphate signaling in B16F10 cells

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Morus alba L. has long been used for beauty in many Asian countries and regions, including anti-aging and hyperpigmentation.

AIM OF THE STUDY

This study aimed at the inhibitory effect of Morus alba L. root on melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells and the mechanism involved.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

This study evaluated the anti-melanogenic effect of Morus alba L. root extract (MAR) on B16F10 melanoma cells by assessing cell viability, melanin accumulation, cellular tyrosinase activity, intra/inter-cellular S1P levels, cellular S1P-related metabolic enzyme activity, and western blot analysis. In addition, the potential S1P lyase (S1PL) inhibitory constituents in MAR were identified by LC-MS/MS.

RESULTS

Without affecting the viability of B16F10 melanoma cells, MAR inhibited intracellular tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent manner, thereby reducing the accumulation of melanin. MAR also downregulated the expression level of MITF via activating the ERK signaling pathway. Furthermore, MAR increased the intra/inter-cellular S1P by inhibiting S1PL. Several compounds with inhibitory S1PL activity have been identified in MAR, such as mulberroside A and oxyresveratrol.

CONCLUSIONS

The anti-melanogenic effects of MAR mainly involve promoting MITF degradation mediated via S1P-S1PR3-ERK signaling through increasing cellular S1P levels by inhibiting S1PL activity.

Depigmenting topical therapy based on a synergistic combination of compounds targeting the key pathways involved in melasma pathophysiology

Melasma has a complex pathophysiology with different cell types and signalling pathways involved. Paracrine factors secreted by keratinocytes, fibroblasts and endothelial cells act on melanocytes and stimulate melanogenesis. These paracrine factors are involved in the oxidative stress, inflammatory, vascular and hormonal pathways, among others. Damage of the dermoepidermal barrier also occurs and facilitates melanin deposition in the dermis, also known as dermal or mixed melasma. We used artificial intelligence tools to define the best combination of compounds for skin pigmentation inhibition. Mathematical models suggested the combination of retinol, diosmin and ferulic acid to be the most effective one. In vitro cellular tyrosinase activity assay proved that this combination had a synergistic depigmenting effect. Further assays proved that the combination could inhibit key pathways involved in melasma by downregulating ET-1 and COX-2 gene expression and IBMX-induced dendricity in human melanocytes, and upregulated the gene expression of IL-1b, TIMP3 and several endogenous antioxidant enzymes. The combination also reduced melanin levels in a phototype VI 3D epidermis model. These results indicate that the combination of retinol, diosmin and ferulic acid is an effective synergistic complex for the treatment of melasma by regulating the key molecular pathways involved in skin hyperpigmentation pathophysiology.

Pinostrobin Suppresses the α-Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone-Induced Melanogenic Signaling Pathway

Pinostrobin is a dietary flavonoid found in several plants that possesses pharmacological properties, such as anti-cancer, anti-virus, antioxidant, anti-ulcer, and anti-aromatase effects. However, it is unclear if pinostrobin exerts anti-melanogenic properties and, if so, what the underlying molecular mechanisms comprise. Therefore, we, in this study, investigated whether pinostrobin inhibits melanin biosynthesis in vitro and in vivo, as well as the potential associated mechanism. Pinostrobin reduced mushroom tyrosinase activity in vitro in a concentration-dependent manner, with an IC₅₀ of 700 μM. Molecular docking simulations further revealed that pinostrobin forms a hydrogen bond, as well as other non-covalent interactions, between the C-type lectin-like fold and polyphenol oxidase chain, rather than the previously known copper-containing catalytic center. Additionally, pinostrobin significantly decreased α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced extracellular and intracellular melanin production, as well as tyrosinase activity, in B16F10 melanoma cells. More specifically, pinostrobin inhibited the α-MSH-induced melanin biosynthesis signaling pathway by suppressing the cAMP-CREB-MITF axis. In fact, pinostrobin also attenuated pigmentation in α-MSH-stimulated zebrafish larvae without causing cardiotoxicity. The findings suggest that pinostrobin effectively inhibits melanogenesis in vitro and in vivo via regulation of the cAMP-CREB-MITF axis.

Epidermis-on-a-chip system to develop skin barrier and melanin mimicking model

In vitro skin models are rapidly developing and have been widely used in various fields as an alternative to traditional animal experiments. However, most traditional static skin models are constructed on Transwell plates without a dynamic three-dimensional (3D) culture microenvironment. Compared with native human and animal skin, such in vitro skin models are not completely biomimetic, especially regarding their thickness and permeability. Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop an automated biomimetic human microphysiological system (MPS), which can be used to construct in vitro skin models and improve bionic performance. In this work, we describe the development of a triple-well microfluidic-based epidermis-on-a-chip (EoC) system, possessing epidermis barrier and melanin-mimicking functions, as well as being semi-solid specimen friendly. The special design of our EoC system allows pasty and semi-solid substances to be effectively utilized in testing, as well as allowing for long-term culturing and imaging. The epidermis in this EoC system is well-differentiated, including basal, spinous, granular, and cornified layers with appropriate epidermis marker (e.g. keratin-10, keratin-14, involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin) expression levels in corresponding layers. We further demonstrate that this organotypic chip can prevent permeation of over 99.83% of cascade blue (a 607 Da fluorescent molecule), and prednisone acetate (PA) was applied to test percutaneous penetration in the EoC. Finally, we tested the whitening effect of a cosmetic on the proposed EoC, thus demonstrating its efficacy. In summary, we developed a biomimetic EoC system for epidermis recreation, which could potentially serve as a useful tool for skin irritation, permeability, cosmetic evaluation, and drug safety tests.

The Potential of Purple Waxy Corn Cob (Zea mays L.) Extract Loaded-Sericin Hydrogel for Anti-Hyperpigmentation, UV Protection and Anti-Aging Properties as Topical Product Applications

Sericin-hydrogel formulations incorporating purple waxy corn (Zea mays L.) cob extract (PWCC) were developed as potential topical skin cosmetic products. Sericin has wound healing properties, protects against ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and exhibits anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidation, and anti-tyrosinase activities. PWCC is a rich source of anthocyanins with antioxidants, UV protective, anti-inflammatory, and collagen-enhancing activities. Six hydrogel formulations (S1-S6) were investigated for anti-melanogenesis on the B16F10 melanoma cell line and UV-protection on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and anti-aging activities on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). The results showed that the hydrogel formulations enhanced the anthocyanin permeation through the skin. The S4 formulation indicated the highest inhibition of tyrosinase activity and reduced the melanin pigment, increased the cell viability of the UV-induced HaCaT cells, the inhibition of collagenase and elastase, and increased the collagen type I production without cytotoxicity. Therefore, the PWCC loaded-sericin hydrogels show a high potential as a novel anti-hyperpigmentation, UV protection, and anti-aging products for topical applications.

Chemical Constituents, Antioxidant, and Enzyme Inhibitory Activities Supported by In-Silico Study of n-Hexane Extract and Essential Oil of Guava Leaves

Psidium guajava (Guava tree) is one of the most widely known species in the family Myrtaceae. The Guava tree has been reported for its potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and cytotoxic activities. In the current study, the chemical compositions of the n-hexane extract and the essential oil of P. guajava were investigated using the GC/MS analysis, along with an evaluation of their antioxidant potential, and an investigation into the enzyme inhibition of acetylcholinesterase (AChE), butyrylcholinesterase (BchE), tyrosinase, α-amylase, and α-glucosidase. Moreover, molecular docking of the major identified active sites of the target enzymes were investigated. The chemical characterization of the n-hexane extract and essential oil revealed that squalene (9.76%), α-tocopherol (8.53%), and γ-sitosterol (3.90%) are the major compounds in the n-hexane extract. In contrast, the major constituents of the essential oil are D-limonene (36.68%) and viridiflorol (9.68%). The n-hexane extract showed more antioxidant potential in the cupric reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC), the ferric reducing power (FRAP), and the metal chelating ability (MCA) assays, equivalent to 70.80 ± 1.46 mg TE/g, 26.01 ± 0.97 mg TE/g, and 24.83 ± 0.35 mg EDTAE/g, respectively. In the phosphomolybdenum (PM) assay, the essential oil showed more antioxidant activity equivalent to 2.58 ± 0.14 mmol TE/g. The essential oil demonstrated a potent BChE and tyrosinase inhibitory ability at 6.85 ± 0.03 mg GALAE/g and 61.70 ± 3.21 mg KAE/g, respectively. The α-amylase, and α-glucosidase inhibitory activity of the n-hexane extract and the essential oil varied from 0.52 to 1.49 mmol ACAE/g. Additionally, the molecular docking study revealed that the major compounds achieved acceptable binding scores upon docking with the tested enzymes. Consequently, the P. guajava n-hexane extract and oil can be used as a promising candidate for the development of novel treatment strategies for oxidative stress, neurodegeneration, and diabetes mellitus diseases.

Atraric Acid Ameliorates Hyperpigmentation through the Downregulation of the PKA/CREB/MITF Signaling Pathway

Atraric acid (AA) is derived from lichens and is widely used in perfumes for its desirable scent. It has been reported as having anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. Hyperpigmentation is the underlying cause of a variety of dermatological diseases that have a significant impact on patients' quality of life and are frequently difficult to treat. This study aimed to explore the inhibitory effects of AA on hyperpigmentation in vitro and in vivo and its potential molecular mechanisms. The cytological results revealed that at a dose of 250 μM, AA may reduce melanin content and tyrosinase levels without causing cytotoxicity. Furthermore, the expression of melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R), phosphorylated protein kinase A (pPKA) and phosphorylated cAMP response element binding protein (pCREB) were downregulated in AA-administrated cells. In vivo, histological analysis showed that AA could inhibit melanin production and tyrosinase activity, and 3% AA had the best activity, with almost no side effects. Furthermore, the results of Western blot analysis and RT-PCR suggested that AA may suppress the mRNA transcription of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) protein and tyrosine protease by decreasing the expression of MC1R, consequently decreasing the phosphorylation of PKA and CREB. Finally, the MC1R inhibitor MSG606 verified the hypothesis that AA suppresses melanin formation by downregulating the PKA/CREB/MITF signaling pathway. Taken together, our study offers valuable information for the development of AA as a possible ingredient in skin-lightening cosmeceuticals and hyperpigmentation inhibitors.

Asterias pectinifera-Derived Collagen Peptides Mixed with Halocynthia roretzi Extracts Exhibit Anti-Photoaging Activities during Exposure to UV Irradiation, and Antibacterial Properties

Asterias pectinifera, a species of starfish and cause of concern in the aquaculture industry, was recently identified as a source of non-toxic and highly water-soluble collagen peptides. In this study, we investigated the antioxidant and anti-photoaging functions of compounds formulated using collagen peptides from extracts of Asterias pectinifera and Halocynthia roretzi (AH). Our results showed that AH compounds have various skin protective functions, including antioxidant effects, determined by measuring the scavenging activity of 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radicals, as well as anti-melanogenic effects, determined by measuring tyrosinase inhibition activity. To determine whether ethosome-encapsulated AH compounds (E(AH)) exert ultraviolet (UV)-protective effects, human dermal fibroblasts or keratinocytes were incubated with E(AH) before and after exposure to UVA or UVB. E(AH) treatment led to inhibition of photoaging-induced secretion of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and interleukin-6 and -8, which are associated with inflammatory responses during UV irradiation. Finally, the antibacterial effects of AH and E(AH) were confirmed against both gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria. Our results indicate that E(AH) has the potential for use in the development of cosmetics with a range of skin protective functions.

Anti-Melanogenesis Effect of Polysaccharide from Saussurea involucrata on Forskolin-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells

As one of the prominent medicinal plants listed in the Chinese pharmacopoeia (2020), Saussurea involucrata (Kar. et Kir.) Sch.-Bip was demonstrated to possess various therapeutic effects. In our recent research, we extracted the polysaccharides from S. involucrata (SIP) at optimal conditions and conducted further structure elucidation on the main fraction as well as the confirmation of its possible anti-inflammatory activity. Hence, in this work, we assessed the in vitro antioxidant activity and anti-melanogenesis effects of the crude SIP in forskolin-induced B16F10 melanoma cells. The results show that SIP possessed strong antioxidant activity and was effective in concentration-dependently decreasing melanin formation and inhibiting tyrosinase activity in forskolin-induced B16F10 cells. Based on these results, the inhibitory mechanism of melanogenesis was investigated by measuring Tyrosinase (TYR), Tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), Tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2), Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), cAMP-response element binding protein (CREB), mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) signaling protein members, and β-catenin degradation in forskolin-induced B16F10 cells. The anti-melanogenesis response of SIP might be attributed to the regulation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) phosphorylation and β-catenin degradation pathways. These results suggest that polysaccharides from S. involucrata possess a strong anti-melanogenic effect, and thus could be used as a high-value natural material for skin whitening in cosmeceutical industries.

Potential Cosmetic Active Ingredients Derived from Marine By-Products

The market demand for marine-based cosmetics has shown a tremendous growth rate in the last decade. Marine resources represent a promising source of novel bioactive compounds for new cosmetic ingredient development. However, concern about sustainability also becomes an issue that should be considered in developing cosmetic ingredients. The fisheries industry (e.g., fishing, farming, and processing) generates large amounts of leftovers containing valuable substances, which are potent sources of cosmeceutical ingredients. Several bioactive substances could be extracted from the marine by-product that can be utilized as a potent ingredient to develop cosmetics products. Those bioactive substances (e.g., collagen from fish waste and chitin from crustacean waste) could be utilized as anti-photoaging, anti-wrinkle, skin barrier, and hair care products. From this perspective, this review aims to approach the potential active ingredients derived from marine by-products for cosmetics and discuss the possible activity of those active ingredients in promoting human beauty. In addition, this review also covers the prospect and challenge of using marine by-products toward the emerging concept of sustainable blue cosmetics.

Chemical Composition of Impatiens textori Miq. Flower Absolute and Its Potential Wound Repair and Anti-Melanogenesis-Promoting Activities in Skin Cells

Impatiens textori Miq. (ITM; family Balsaminaceae) is a traditional medicinal plant with many biological activities, which include anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-pruritic properties. However, it remains to be determined whether ITM affects biological activities in the skin. Thus, we investigated the effects of ITM flower absolute (ITMFAb) extract on the biological activities of skin, especially those related to skin wound repair and whitening. ITMFAb was extracted with hexane, and its composition was determined through GC/MS. The biological activities of ITMFAb on HaCaT keratinocytes and B16BL6 melanoma cells were analyzed using a water-soluble tetrazolium salt, 5-bromo-2'-deoxyuridine incorporation, a Boyden chamber, an ELISA, a sprouting assay, and by immunoblotting. These analyses were performed in a range of ITMFAb concentrations that did not inhibit the viability of the cells (HaCaT, ≤400 µg/mL; B16BL6, ≤200 µg/m). Forty components were identified in ITMFAb. ITMFAb stimulated proliferation, migration, sprout outgrowth, and type I and IV collagen synthesis and upregulated the activations of ERK1/2, JNK, p38 MAPK, and AKT in HaCaT cells. In addition, ITMFAb attenuated the serum-induced proliferation of B16BL6 cells. ITMFAb inhibited melanin synthesis, tyrosinase activity, and expressions of MITF and tyrosinase in α-MSH-exposed B16BL6 cells. These findings indicate that ITMFAb has beneficial effects on wound repairing and whitening-linked responses in the skin and suggest the potential use of ITMFAb as a natural material for the development of skin wound repair and whitening agents.

Biological Characterization and Quantification of Rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum L.) Peel Extract as a Potential Source of Valuable Minerals and Ellagitannins for Industrial Applications

This study extracted ellagitannins from rambutan peel using the Soxhlet technique. The extract was further partitioned and fractionated to get extract rich in ellagitannin and geraniin, respectively. The partitioning of the extract significantly increased total phenolic content (TPC) by 36.3% and its biological properties. Mineral elements such as Ca, Cr, Cu, Fe, K, Mg, Mn, Na, Ni, and Zn were identified in both peel and extract. Ellagitannins such as geraniin and corilagin with metabolites (gallic acid and ellagic acid) were identified as the major compounds. Analysis of antioxidant activities shows that the ellagitannin rich extract is as powerful as vitamin C. Geraniin was the main contributor to the free radical scavenging activity. The study also revealed that extract with a fraction rich in geraniin has antioxidant activity equivalent to commercial geraniin (1.56 ± 0.11 Trolox equivalent g/g). It also showed low cytotoxicity on fibroblast L929 cells, moderate tyrosinase activity, and good efficacy against Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Cutibacterium acnes strains. Successive fractionation of the extract is a promising technique to produce geraniin rich fractions with enhanced antioxidant property. Rambutan peel, as a natural product, is a good source of mineral elements and biologically active compounds for pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, and cosmetic formulations.

Nomilin from Yuzu Seed Has In Vitro Antioxidant Activity and Downregulates Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells through the PKA/CREB Signaling Pathway

Yuzu (Citrus junos) is a citrus plant native to Asian countries, including Korea, Japan, and China. Yuzu peel and seed contain abundant vitamin C, citric acid, and polyphenols. Although the antioxidative and antimelanogenic activities of other citrus fruits and yuzu extract have been reported, the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the limonoid aglycone contained in yuzu seed extract is unknown. We separated yuzu seeds into the husk, shell, and meal and evaluated antioxidant activity of each. The limonoid glucoside fraction of the husk identified nomilin, a novel tyrosinase inhibitor. We performed tyrosinase inhibitory activity and noncompetitive inhibition assays and docking studies to determine nomilin binding sites. Furthermore, we evaluated the antioxidative mechanism and antimelanogenic activity of nomilin in B16F10 melanoma cells. The concentration of nomilin that did not show toxicity was <100 µg/mL. Nomilin suppressed protein expression of TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in a concentration-dependent manner. Nomilin significantly reduced the levels of p-CREB and p-PKA at the protein level and decreased the levels of skin-whitening-related factors MITF, tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2 at the mRNA level in a concentration-dependent manner. Thus, nomilin from yuzu seed husk can be used as a skin-whitening agent in cosmetics.

Discovery of Novel Tyrosinase Inhibitors From Marine Cyanobacteria

Tyrosinase, an important oxidase involved in the primary immune response in humans, can sometimes become problematic as it can catalyze undesirable oxidation reactions. Therefore, for decades there has been a strong pharmaceutical interest in the discovery of novel inhibitors of this enzyme. Recent studies have also indicated that tyrosinase inhibitors can potentially be used in the treatment of melanoma cancer. Over the years, many new tyrosinase inhibitors have been discovered from various natural sources; however, marine natural products (MNPs) have contributed only a small number of promising candidates. Therefore, in this study we focused on the discovery of new MNP tyrosinase inhibitors of marine cyanobacterial and algal origins. A colorimetric tyrosinase inhibitory assay was used to screen over 4,500 marine extracts against mushroom tyrosinase (A. bisporus). Our results revealed that scytonemin monomer (ScyM), a pure compound from our compound library and also the monomeric last-step precursor in the biosynthesis of the well-known cyanobacterial sunscreen pigment “scytonemin,” consistently showed the highest tyrosinase inhibitory score. Determination of the half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) further indicated that ScyM is more potent than the commonly used commercial inhibitor standard “kojic acid” (KA; IC₅₀ of ScyM: 4.90 μM vs. IC₅₀ of KA: 11.31 μM). After a scaled-up chemical synthesis of ScyM as well as its O-methyl analog (ScyM-OMe), we conducted a series of follow-up studies on their structures, inhibitory properties, and mode of inhibition. Our results supported ScyM as the second case ever of a novel tyrosinase inhibitory compound based on a marine cyanobacterial natural product. The excellent in vitro performance of ScyM makes it a promising candidate for applications such as a skin-whitening agent or an adjuvant therapy for melanoma cancer treatment.

Bamboo Lignin Fractions with In Vitro Tyrosinase Inhibition Activity Downregulate Melanogenesis in B16F10 Cells via PKA/CREB Signaling Pathway

Cosmetic ingredients originating from natural resources have garnered considerable attention, and the demand for whitening ingredients is increasing, particularly in Asian countries. Lignin is a natural phenolic biopolymer significantly effective as a natural sunscreen, as its ultraviolet protection efficacy ranges from 250 to 400 nm. However, using different types of lignin as cosmetic ingredients is difficult owing to the heterogeneity of lignin and the lack of in vitro and in vivo safety and efficacy data. Thus, steam-exploded lignin (SEL) was prepared from bamboo, fractionated via successive organic solvent extraction, and sequentially fractionated using ethyl acetate, methanol, and acetone to investigate its potential as a natural whitening material. Gel permeation chromatography showed that the molecular weight of acetone-soluble and acetone-insoluble SEL fractions were the lowest and the highest, respectively. Monomer structures of the four lignin fractions were elucidated using 1H, 13C, and 2D heteronuclear single quantum coherence nuclear magnetic resonance and pyrolysis gas chromatography/mass spectrometry. The antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition activities of the four fractions were compared. The methanol-soluble SEL fraction (SEL-F2) showed the highest antioxidant activity (except 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl scavenging activity), and the enzyme inhibition kinetics were confirmed. In this study, the expression pattern of the anti-melanogenic-related proteins by SEL-F2 was confirmed for the first time via the protein kinase A (PKA)/cAMP-response element-binding (CREB) protein signaling pathway in B16F10 melanoma cells. Thus, SEL may serve as a valuable cosmetic whitening ingredient.

Selected Flavonoids to Target Melanoma: A Perspective in Nanoengineering Delivery Systems

Melanoma is a complex type of cancer that depends on several metabolic factors, while the currently used therapies are not always effective and have unwanted side effects. In this review, the main factors involved in the etiology of cutaneous carcinoma are highlighted, together with the main genes and proteins that regulate cancer invasion and metastization. The role of five selected flavonoids, namely, apigenin, epigallocatechin-3-gallate, kaempferol, naringenin, and silybin, in the modulating receptor tyrosine kinase (RTK) and Wnt pathways is reported with their relevance in the future design of drugs to mitigate and/or treat melanoma. However, as phenolic compounds have some difficulties in reaching the target site, the encapsulation of these compounds in nanoparticles is a promising strategy to promote improved physicochemical stabilization of the bioactives and achieve greater bioavailability. Scientific evidence is given about the beneficial effects of loading these flavonoids into selected nanoparticles for further exploitation in the treatment of melanoma.

Antioxidant and Enzyme Inhibitory Properties, and HPLC–MS/MS Profiles of Different Extracts of Arabis carduchorum Boiss.: An Endemic Plant to Turkey

In this study, six extracts of Arabis carduchorum prepared from solvents of varying polarity (water, methanol, ethyl acetate, dichloromethane, and n-hexane) were investigated for their chemical profiles and total phenolic and flavonoid contents (TPC/TFC) using HPLC–MS/MS and spectrophotometric/colorimetric assays, respectively, along with the assessment of their antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory effects. In general, the polar extracts (methanol, water, and infusion) showed higher TPC/TFC than the other extracts (range:13.73–26.62 mg GAE/g; 2.66–52.95 mg RE/g, respectively). The total antioxidant capacity of the polar extracts ranged from 0.90–1.85 mmol TE/g in phosphomolybdenum assay, while the free radical scavenging potential ranged from 4.36–32.13 mg TE/g and 12.58–67.73 mg TE/g in DPPH and ABTS assays, respectively. While the water and infuse extract inhibited only butyrylcholinesterase (2.68 and 2.39 mg GALAE/g, respectively), the other extracts were found to inhibit both acetyl- and butyryl-cholinesterases (0.96–2.73 mg GALAE/g and 1.86–5.11 mg GALAE/g, respectively). On the contrary, all extracts exhibited anti-tyrosinase (40.24–59.22 mg KAE/g) and anti-amylase (0.09–0.63 mmol ACAE/g) activities. Overall, this study highlighted the effect of solvent polarity on the extraction of bioactive compounds and the biological properties of the extracts of A. carduchorum; hence, the results obtained could be used to guide optimum extraction in future studies.

Cyano-Phycocyanin: Mechanisms of Action on Human Skin and Future Perspectives in Medicine

Cyano-phycocyanin is one of the active pigments of the blue-green algae and is usually isolated from the filamentous cyanobacteria Arthrospira platensis Gomont (Spirulina). Due to its multiple physiological functions and non-toxicity, cyano-phycocyanin may be a potential substance for the topical treatment of various skin diseases. Considering that the conventional medicine faces drug resistance, insufficient efficacy and side effects, the plant origin compounds can act as an alternative option. Thus, the aim of this paper was to review the wound healing, antimicrobial, antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, antimelanogenic and anticancer properties and mechanisms of cyano-phycocyanin topical activities on human skin. Moreover, possible applications and biotechnological requirements for pharmaceutical forms of cyano-phycocyanin for the treatment of various skin diseases are discussed in this review.

Development, characterization, and clinical investigation of Spinacia oleracea based ultra-high pressure homogenized emulsion system for facial physiological parameters

BACKGROUND

Spinacia oleracea (SO) exhibits radical scavenging and tyrosinase inhibition activity indicating potential as a depigmenting agent.

AIMS

To develop and characterize a stable emulsified system containing SO extract through ultra-high pressure homogenization, evaluate skin permeability, and enumerate in-vivo performance in terms of melanin index, skin spots analysis, and related skin physiological parameters.

METHOD

Free radical scavenging and tyrosinase inhibition potential of SO extract was quantified through DPPH radical scavenging and mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay respectively. 6 SO extract loaded ultra-high pressure emulsified systems (UHSO) were developed using ultra-high pressure homogenizer and assessed for size and polydispersity index (PDI). Among the prepared formulations the optimized formulation (UHSO6) was subjected to 90 days stability studies performed at 8 ºC, 25 ºC, 40 ºC, and 40 ºC+75% RH (relative humidity) for organoleptic features, pH, and rheology. Ex-vivo skin permeability studies were performed on abdominal skin from male albino rat. Changes in skin physiological parameters were evaluated in healthy female volunteers (n=13) for 12 weeks utilizing mexameter®, corneometer® and sebumeter®. Skin spots were analyzed through computerized analysis of high-resolution images by visioFace®.

RESULTS

SO extract exhibited promising antioxidant (88±0.0096%) and tyrosinase inhibition potential (90.6±0.0015 mg of Kojic Acid Eq/g of extract). Optimized UHSO was found to be stable with respect to stability evaluation, globule size (1110 nm), zeta potential (-27.6), and PDI (0.34). Ex-vivo skin permeation of UHSO was significantly higher than SO loaded coarse emulsion. Moreover, the formulation showed a significant decrease in skin melanin, spot count, and spot % area, whereas skin hydration index was improved significantly.

CONCLUSION

Stable SO extract loaded emulsion system was successfully developed by a novel, cost-effective technique of ultra-high pressure homogenization which showed improved performance in terms of skin permeation and other skin physiological parameters.

Recycled Sericin Hydrolysates Modified by Alcalase® Suppress Melanogenesis in Human Melanin-Producing Cells via Modulating MITF

Because available depigmenting agents exhibit short efficacy and serious side effects, sericin, a waste protein from the silk industry, was hydrolyzed using Alcalase^® to evaluate its anti-melanogenic activity in human melanin-producing cells. Sericin hydrolysates consisted of sericin-related peptides in differing amounts and smaller sizes compared with unhydrolyzed sericin, as respectively demonstrated by peptidomic and SDS-PAGE analysis. The lower half-maximum inhibitory concentration (9.05 ± 0.66 mg/mL) compared with unhydrolyzed sericin indicated a potent effect of sericin hydrolysates on the diminution of melanin content in human melanoma MNT1 cells. Not only inhibiting enzymatic activity but also a downregulated expression level of tyrosinase was evident in MNT1 cells incubated with 20 mg/mL sericin hydrolysates. Quantitative RT-PCR revealed the decreased mRNA level of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), a tyrosinase transcription factor, which correlated with the reduction of pCREB/CREB, an upstream cascade, as assessed by Western blot analysis in MNT1 cells cultured with 20 mg/mL sericin hydrolysates for 12 h. Interestingly, treatment with sericin hydrolysates for 6–24 h also upregulated pERK, a molecule that triggers MITF degradation, in human melanin-producing cells. These results warrant the recycling of wastewater from the silk industry for further development as a safe and effective treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.

A tiered approach for evaluation of anti-melanogenic activity of trans-N-coumaroyltyramine derivatives

Skin hyperpigmentation is commonly treated by topical drug application. Several naturally occurring compounds exhibit attractive biological effects including anti-melanogenic activity. Chemically modified derivatives of those compounds are expected to be more efficient. However, efficacy and safety testing processes are of significant consideration to identify the most effective compound among them. Herein, we demonstrated a tiered approach to investigate the antipigmentation activity of 17 trans-N-coumaroyltyramine derivatives. First, we evaluated the in chemico antityrosinase activity, then the cytotoxicity of the most potent derivatives using a mitochondrial activity-based assay, followed with the in vitro anti-melanogenic activity in two dimensional (2D) monolayer human melanocytes. The selected derivatives were topically applied on a three dimensional (3D) pigmented-reconstructed human epidermis (pRhE) containing melanocytes and keratinocytes to evaluate their depigmenting activity. Two of the 17 derivatives displayed a significant reduction in pigmentation in the 3D pRhE, comparable to kojic acid, a known tyrosinase inhibitor. In addition, a molecular docking experiment indicated an interaction of the three derivatives and tyrosinase, suggesting that these derivatives have potent anti-melanogenic activity through tyrosinase inhibition. Our findings provide an alternative approach for investigating skin-whitening agents, thereby facilitating the research and development of skin-whitening products that need not be tested on animals.

Synergistic effects of novel herbal decoctions from Panax ginseng and Morus alba on tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis in vitro

Many medicinal plants such as a Panax ginseng and Morus alba (mulberry tree) have been widely used as depigmenting agents in Asia. To maximize their synergistic effects on melanogenesis, new herbal decoctions were created by mixing Ginseng Radix Alba (GR) and Mori Radicis Cortex (MC) at a ratio of 3:2 which called GMC decoction. A decoction of GR and Mori Ramulus (MR), which called GMR, was also formulated in order to compare the anti-melanogenic capacity. Combined decoctions, GMC and GMR, significantly decreased mushroom tyrosinase activity in vitro; however, single extracts, including MC and MR, showed weaker inhibitory activity. Melanin content assay and Fontana–Masson staining confirmed that two decoctions showed stronger inhibitory effects on the forskolin-induced melanin level in B16 cells, without cytotoxicity. Our findings suggest that ginseng in combination with mulberry tree enhances the anti-melanogenic effect in vitro.

Calycosin, a Common Dietary Isoflavonoid, Suppresses Melanogenesis through the Downregulation of PKA/CREB and p38 MAPK Signaling Pathways

Calycosin, a bioactive isoflavonoid isolated from root extracts of Astragalus membranaceus, has been reported to inhibit melanogenesis, the mechanism of which remains undefined. In this study, we interrogated the mechanistic basis by which calycosin inhibits melanin production in two model systems, i.e., B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish embryos. Calycosin was effective in protecting B16F10 cells from α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis and tyrosinase activity. This anti-melanogenic effect was accompanied by decreased expression levels of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), a key protein controlling melanin synthesis, and its target genes tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP-2) in calycosin-treated cells. Mechanistically, we obtained the first evidence that calycosin-mediated MITF downregulation was attributable to its ability to block signaling pathways mediated by cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and p38 MAP kinase. The protein kinase A (PKA) inhibitor H-89 and p38 inhibitor SB203580 validated the premise that calycosin inhibits melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity by regulating the PKA/CREB and p38 MAPK signaling pathways. Moreover, the in vivo anti-melanogenic efficacy of calycosin was manifested by its ability to suppress body pigmentation and tyrosinase activity in zebrafish embryos. Together, these data suggested the translational potential of calycosin to be developed as skin-lightening cosmeceuticals.