Formulation and stability of ascorbic acid in topical preparations

Persulfated Ascorbic Acid Glycoside as a Safe and Stable Derivative of Ascorbic Acid for Skin Care Application

The pursuit of cosmetic ingredients with proven efficacy and safety that meet consumer needs drives the advancement of new products. Ascorbic acid (AA) is utilized in cosmetic products, predominantly for its potent antioxidant properties. Nonetheless, its instability compromises its efficacy. In this work, ascorbyl 2-O-glucoside persulfate (AAGS) was synthesized, characterized, and evaluated regarding its safety profile and potential bioactivities and the results were compared to AA and its glycoside AAG. Pre-formulation studies were performed to assess the stability of the compounds and their compatibility with typical excipients commonly used in topical formulations. AAGS did not affect the metabolic activity of keratinocyte, macrophage, and monocyte cell lines, up to 500 µM. AAGS also exhibited a non-prooxidant and non-sensitizing profile and anti-allergic activity by impeding the allergen-induced maturation of THP-1 cells. When compared to AA and AAG, AAGS was shown to be more stable at pH values between 5 and 7, as well as superior thermostability and photostability. AAGS demonstrated higher stability in metal solutions of Fe(II) and Mg(II) than AA. AAGS demonstrated similar DPPH radical scavenging activity compared to AA. These results provide useful information for the development of new AA derivatives, highlighting AAGS as a novel cosmetic ingredient.

Impact of Wall Material-to-Active Ratio in the Stability of Spray-Dried Ascorbic Acid Using Maltodextrin and Gum Arabic

Encapsulation revolutionizes industries through enhanced stability, controlled release, and targeted performance of active ingredients. The novel aspect of this study explores the impact of the wall material-to-active (WM:A) ratio on the stability of ascorbic acid (AA) encapsulated in a maltodextrin (MD) and gum arabic (GA) blend (2:1 w/w). Microparticles were spray-dried and analyzed using SEM, TGA, DSC, thermal stability, and antioxidant activity assessments. Stability tests under different conditions revealed that a higher WM:A ratio (7:1) improved the active stability and antioxidant activity during storage, highlighting its importance in the encapsulation process. SEM analysis confirmed particles with no cracks, and the particles demonstrated excellent thermal stability up to 200 °C with minimal degradation. These findings underscore the critical role of the WM:A ratio in determining the stability of encapsulated AA within a carbohydrate matrix, offering valuable insights for advancing encapsulation technologies.

Understand the Stabilization Engineering of Ascorbic Acid, Mapping the Scheme for Stabilization, and Advancement

Vitamin C is extensively used in cosmetic formulation, howbeit stability is the supreme demerit that limits its use in beautifying products. Numerous techniques are being employed to inhibit the degradation of vitamin C caused by formulation components to facilitate the use in skin rejuvenating products. Diverse materials are being exercised in formulation to stabilize the ascorbic acid and ingredients selected in this formulation composition help for stabilization. The initial stable prototype is developed and further optimization is accomplished by applying the design of experiment tools. The stable pharmaceutical formulations were evaluated for the evaluation parameters and designated as two optimized formulations. The analytical method for the assay of ascorbic acid from the United States pharmacopeia and the related substance method from European pharmacopeia has been modified to be used for cream formulation. The DoE design exhibited that the stability of formulation is impacted by citric acid and tartaric acid but not by propylene glycol and glycerin. The analysis results of topical formulations for the evaluation parameter exhibited satisfactory results. The in-vitro release study method has been developed, optimized, and validated to fit the analysis. The in-vitro studies have been performed for selected compositions and both the formulation has similar kinds of release patterns. The stability study as per ICH guidelines exhibited that the product is stable for accelerated, intermediate, and room-temperature storage conditions. The optimized formulation shows constant release and permeation of ascorbic acid through the skin. The formulation with the combinations of citric acid, tartaric acid, and tocopherol is more stable and the degradation of vitamin C has been reduced significantly. The beaucoup strategies in the unique composition help to protect the degradation by inhibiting the multitudinous degradation pathways.

Antibacterial and Antioxidant Study of New Pharmaceutical Formulation of Didecyldimethylammonium Bromide Via Pharmaceutical Deep Eutectic Solvents (PDESs) Principle

Combination therapies have been studied by many researchers using different techniques and methods to solve some solid drug problems and improve more effective treatments for humans and animals. One of the more significant findings to emerge from this study is that the combination of pharmaceutical agents by using pharmaceutical deep eutectic solvents (PDESs) in order to produce dual action drugs and reduce the drug resistance. The major objective of this study was to investigate the dual functionality of drugs (antioxidant and antibacterial activity) via the principle of PDESs. The produced PDESs were characterized via different techniques, namely differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), and UV-Vis spectrophotometry. We herein tested a panel of novel liquid formulations of didecyldimethylammonium bromide (DDMAB) against a selection of pathogenic bacteria, classifying their spectrum of activity against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. The current study found that the PDESs can be used to produce drugs with dual functionalities. The produced PDES from (ascorbic acid: DDMAB) exhibits stronger antibacterial activity against Gram-positive Staphyloccocus aureus and Staphyloccocus epidermidis than gram negatives. One of the most interesting PDESs studied in this research was that of DDMAB and ascorbic acid. This forms a eutectic which is far from the solid drugs issues and shows dual functionality like antibacterial and antioxidant activity. This study has found that there is a correlation between the molecular docking study and the biological activities of the combined drugs.

Highly stable and fast-dissolving ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles

OBJECTIVES

Ascorbic acid has many benefits to the skin. Numerous attempts to promote its topical delivery show great challenges since its chemical instability and poor skin impermeability. Microneedle delivery is a simple, safe, painless and effective means to deliver therapeutic or nourishing molecules into the skin. The purpose of this study was twofold: (a) to develop a new formulation of ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles to enhance ascorbic acid stability by investigating an optimal amount of polyethyleneimine as an additive to the dextran-based microneedle formulation and (b) to assess microneedle properties in terms of dissolving rate, skin penetration ability, biocompatibility and antimicrobial activity.

METHODS

The microneedles formulated with ascorbic acid and varied polyethyleneimine concentrations were fabricated and subsequently tested for ascorbic acid stability using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl assay. The dissolution rate and skin penetration depth were investigated in porcine skin and the reconstructed human full-thickness skin model respectively. The skin irritation tests were done according to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development Test Guideline No. 439. An antimicrobial disc susceptibility test was performed against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis.

RESULTS

Among varied amounts of 0%, 1.5%, 3.0% and 4.5% (w/v), the 3.0% polyethyleneimine showed the most desirable characteristics, including well-preserved shape integrity after demoulding, significantly improved stability of ascorbic acid (p < 0.001) from 33% to 96% antioxidant activity after 8 weeks of storage at 40°C, increased dissolving rate (p < 0.001) by being completely dissolved within 2 min after the skin insertion, passing skin penetration and biocompatibility tests as well as having a broad spectrum of antimicrobial property.

CONCLUSION

With a safety profile and enhanced properties, the new formulation of ascorbic acid-loaded microneedles shows outstanding potential as commercially available cosmetics and healthcare products.

Acetyl Zingerone: A Photostable Multifunctional Skincare Ingredient That Combats Features of Intrinsic and Extrinsic Skin Aging

The cumulative damage skin sustains from exposure to environmental stressors throughout life exerts significant effects on skin aging and cancer development. One of the main ways by which environmental stressors mediate their effects within skin is through induction of reactive oxygen species (ROS). In this review, we chronicle the multiple properties by which acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a skincare ingredient can benefit skin (1) by helping manage overproduction of ROS through multiple routes as an antioxidant, physical quencher and selective chelator, (2) by fortifying protection after UV exposure ends to prevent the type of epidermal DNA damage that correlates with development of skin cancer, (3) by modulating matrisome activity and nurturing the integrity of the extracellular matrix (ECM) within the dermis and (4) through its proficient ability to neutralize singlet oxygen, by stabilizing the ascorbic acid precursor tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDC) in the dermal microenvironment. This activity improves THDC bioavailability and may blunt pro-inflammatory effects of THDC, such as activation of type I interferon signaling. Moreover, AZ is photostable and can sustain its properties during UV exposure, in contrast to α-tocopherol. All these properties of AZ translate into measurable clinical benefits to improve the visual appearance of photoaged facial skin and to strengthen the skin's own defenses against sun damage.

Development of Emulsions Containing L-Ascorbic Acid and α-Tocopherol Based on the Polysaccharide FucoPol: Stability Evaluation and Rheological and Texture Assessment

The main function of vitamin C, as an antioxidant, is to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging, smoothing wrinkles and expression lines. In addition, it acts directly on depigmentation and prevention of blemishes on the skin. In this study, natural oils (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated, adding L-ascorbic acid as an antioxidant. The optimized formulations were obtained with 8.0 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Olea europaea oil formulation (C1) with a ƞ value of 2.71 Pa.s (measured at shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 96% and with 15 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Prunus amygdalus dulcis formulation (C2) with a ƞ value of 5.15 Pa.s (at a shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 99%. The stability of the FucoPol-based formulations was investigated over 45 days at 4 °C, 20 °C, and 30 °C. The results showed that all formulations maintained the organoleptic characteristics, with pH variations (5.7–6.8 for C1, and 5.5–6.03 for C2) within the regulations for cosmetic products (4 ≤ pH ≤ 7). The accelerated stability tests proved the formulations’ stability at 4 °C with EI = 95% for C1 and EI = 100% for C2. The rheological assessment demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning and liquid-like behavior. Regarding textural parameters, formulations C1 and C2 displayed an increase in firmness and consistency with similar spreadability during the shelf life. These findings further demonstrate FucoPol’s functional properties, acting as an emulsifier and stabilizer polysaccharide in cosmetic formulations containing L-ascorbic acid.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

L-Ascorbic acid and phosphatidylcholine complex vesicles: formation and elucidation of their biological activities, and their molecular interactions

The aim is to prepare, characterise, and evaluate the biological activities and key molecular interactions of L-ascorbic acid and phosphatidylcholine (PC-AA) complex vesicles. PC-AA complexes were prepared and characterised using DLS, TEM, FTIR, UV-Vis, in-vitro release, bioactivities, and cytotoxicity. The key interactions of the AA with the PC were studied with MD simulations. PC-AA complex provides improved stability towards the degradation of AA in aqueous solutions while also slowing its release profile. The PC-AA complexes with an optimal molar ratio of PC: AA = 2.5:1 was shown to have a hydrodynamic diameter of 368.67 ± 4.65 nm and an EE of 68.16 ± 0.23%. At low concentration, the PC-AA complexes have no toxicity towards human dermal fibroblast cells over 48 h. Importantly, MD suggests that AA only forms the PC-AA complex when in its neutral form which is the desired active form. PC-AA complex could be a potential active to use in medicinal and cosmeceutical applications.

In vivo evaluation of topical ascorbic acid application on skin aging by 50MHz ultrasound

Ascorbic acid (AA) is a powerful antioxidant capable of acting significantly both in the prevention and treatment of the skin aging process. One way to assess the in vivo efficacy of anti-aging treatments is by using the high-frequency ultrasound (HFUS) skin image analysis technique, a non-invasive approach that allows for a new level of evaluating the effectiveness of dermatological and cosmetic products. The aim of the present study was to assess the performance of a topical emulsion of liquid crystalline structures containing AA using the 50 MHz HFUS skin image analysis method. Twenty-five healthy female participants between 35 and 60 years old were included, all of whom randomly applied a placebo formulation and an AA-containing formulation to each forearm, once a day, for 30 days. HFUS measurements were performed before using the products (T0), two hours later (T2h), and after 30 days of use (T30d). The analyzed parameters included total skin, dermal, and epidermal echogenicity; variation and mean thickness of total skin, the epidermis and dermis; and surface roughness. Statistical analyses were performed using the Friedman test, followed by Dunn's test for comparisons of multiple means (α=0.05). A significant increase in total skin and dermal echogenicity was observed after topical AA application. Our findings suggest that collagen synthesis significantly increased after topical therapy with AA, which was responsible for the increment in dermal echogenicity. This study showed, through the HFUS technique, that the topical use of AA promoted dermal redensification after 30 days of application.

Detachable dissolvable microneedles: intra-epidermal and intradermal diffusion, effect on skin surface, and application in hyperpigmentation treatment

Delivering bioactive compounds into skin tissue has long been a challenge. Using ex vivo porcine and rat skins, here we demonstrate that a detachable dissolvable microneedle (DDMN) array, a special dissolvable microneedle that allows needle detachment from the base within 2 min post administration, can effectively embed a model compound into epidermis and dermis. Diffusion of the compound from the needle embedding sites to the nearby skin tissue is demonstrated at various post administration periods. The relationship between the time that a conventional dissolvable microneedle array is left on skin without needle detachment from the base and the degree of skin surface abrasion at each microneedle penetration spot is also demonstrated on skin of human volunteers. Co-loading glutathione with vitamin C (vitC) can stabilize vitC in the DDMN. DDMN loaded with vitC and glutathione can help erasing post-acne-hyperpigmentation spots.

The effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation - A systematic review

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is used as a treatment modality in depigmentation of hyperpigmented spots on the skin and gingiva. This systematic review discusses the studies conducted to assess the effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation. The primary objective was to evaluate the effect of Vitamin C on melanin pigmentation. The secondary objective was to analyze the effect of Vitamin C administration on melanin pigmentation. An electronic database search was conducted from the following databases: PubMed, EBSCOhost, ScienceOpen, EMBASE and Google Scholar. Randomized controlled trials, experimental studies, case-control studies and cohort studies published in peer-reviewed journals in English language were included. Case reports, case series, animal model studies, in vitro studies, studies where Vitamin C was used along with other agents and unpublished research were excluded. Out of 22,580 studies, only 7 studies satisfied the selection criteria. Data extraction sheet was prepared, and the studies were analyzed. Out of the 7 studies analyzed, 1 was a randomized controlled trial and 6 were experimental studies. Vitamin C has been used widely as a depigmenting agent in dermatology. However, there are limited studies conducted on the use of Vitamin C for gingival depigmentation.

Vitamin C: One compound, several uses. Advances for delivery, efficiency and stability

Vitamin C (Vit C) is a potent antioxidant with several applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields. However, the biggest challenge in the utilization of Vit C is to maintain its stability and improve its delivery to the active site. Several strategies have been developed such as: controlling the oxygen levels during formulation and storage, low pH, reduction of water content in the formulation and the addition of preservative agents. Additionally, the utilization of derivatives of Vit C and the development of micro and nanoencapsulated delivery systems have been highlighted. In this article, the multiple applications and mechanisms of action of vitamin C will be reviewed and discussed, as well as the new possibilities of delivery and improvement of stability.

Ascorbic Acid in Skin Health

Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is a water-soluble vitamin and a recognized antioxidant drug that is used topically in dermatology to treat and prevent the changes associated with photoaging, as well as for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Ascorbic acid has neutralizing properties of free radicals, being able to interact with superoxide, hydroxyl and free oxygen ions, preventing the inflammatory processes, carcinogens, and other processes that accelerate photoaging in the skin. Current research focuses on the search for stable compounds of ascorbic acid and new alternatives for administration in the dermis. Unlike plants and most animals, humans do not have the ability to synthesize our own ascorbic acid due to the deficiency of the enzyme L-gulono-gamma-lactone oxidase, which catalyzes the passage terminal in the ascorbic acid biosynthesis. To deal with this situation, humans obtain this vitamin from the diet and/or vitamin supplements, thus preventing the development of diseases and achieving general well-being. Ascorbic acid is involved in important metabolic functions and is vital for the growth and maintenance of healthy bones, teeth, gums, ligaments, and blood vessels. Ascorbic acid is a very unstable vitamin and is easily oxidized in aqueous solutions and cosmetic formulations. Ascorbic acid is extensively used as an ingredient in anti-aging cosmetic products, as sodium ascorbate or ascorbyl palmitate. This review discusses and describes the potential roles for ascorbic acid in skin health and their clinical applications (antioxidative, photoprotective, anti-aging, and anti-pigmentary effects) of topical ascorbic acid on the skin and main mechanisms of action. Considering the instability and difficulty in administering ascorbic acid, we also discuss the importance of several factors involved in the formulation and stabilization of their topical preparations in this review.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Inclusion into Υ-Cyclodextrin and Mesoporous SBA-15: Preparation, Characterization and In Vitro Release Study

Ascorbic acid or vitamin C is a strong antioxidant widely used in cosmetic and food fields. This vitamin is very unstable and rapidly undergoes degradation. In order to solve this problem and to obtain a stable ascorbic acid, Nikkol Group has developed ascorbyltetraisopalmitate (VC-IP). This raw material is an oil phase, already well-known and employed in the cosmetic market. The objective of this study is to obtain VC-IP in micro-powder form, in order to produce a new raw material that is easily dispersible in oil and water phases and useful for make-up and color cosmetic applications. Various types of drug carriers were studied and considered in order to support VC-IP and obtain the conversion in powder. Υ-cyclodextrin and mesoporous silica SBA-15 were chosen as the best candidates. A white powder of supported VC-IP was obtained with each carrier (VC-IP@cyclodextrin, VC-IP@SBA-15). The systems underwent physicochemical characterization and in vitro release tests were carried out. Based on the conducted study, it can be concluded that by supporting VC-IP on Υ-cyclodextrin and SBA-15, it is feasible to obtain a new raw material in powder form. The two carriers possess different release profiles, adding the possibility to finely tune the release of the active component in smart formulations.

Lipid peroxidation: Its effects on the formulation and use of pharmaceutical emulsions

Pharmaceutical delivery systems are developed to improve the physicochemical properties of therapeutic compounds. Emulsions are one of these drug delivering systems formulated using water, oils and lipids as main ingredients. Extensive data are usually generated on the physical and chemical characteristics of these oil-in-water and lipid emulsions. However, the oxidative tendency of emulsions is often overlooked. Oxidation impacts the overall quality and safety of these pharmaceutical emulsions. Additionally, introducing oxidatively unstable emulsions into biological systems further promotes oxidation in situ. Products of these reactions then continue to pose serious harm to cells and fuel other physiological oxidation reactions. Consequently, the increase of oxidation products leads to oxidative damage to biological systems. Thus, emulsions with lower lipid peroxidation are more stable and will reduce the negative effects of oxidation in situ. Preventive measures during the formulation of emulsions are important. Many naturally occurring and cost effective substances possess low oxidation tendencies and confer oxidative protection when used in emulsions. Additionally, certain preparatory methods should be employed to reduce or better control lipid peroxidation. Finally, emulsions must be evaluated for their oxidation susceptibility using the various techniques available. Careful attention to the preparation of emulsions and assessment of their oxidative stability will help produce safer emulsions without compromising efficacy.

Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

Topically applied antioxidants exert their benefits by offering protection from damaging free radicals and over-the-counter cosmeceuticals incorporating antioxidants are among the most popular anti-aging products available. One potent antioxidant of particular note, vitamin C, has been extensively utilized because it possesses a variety of other cutaneous benefits including photoprotection from UV A & B, neocollagenesis, inhibition of melanogenesis and improvement of a variety of inflammatory skin disorders. However, the instability of this water-soluble vitamin, together with difficulties associated with its topical delivery, has presented issues for the formulation chemist. This article reviews the scientific data and clinical studies that underpin the stability, percutaneous absorption, and cutaneous effects of vitamin C together with its commonly utilized, commercially available derivatives.

Photostability and interaction of ascorbic acid in cream formulations

The kinetics of photolysis of ascorbic acid in cream formulations on UV irradiation has been studied using a specific spectrophotometric method with a reproducibility of ± 5%. The apparent first-order rate constants (k(obs)) for the photolysis of ascorbic acid in creams have been determined. The photoproducts formed in the cream formulations include dehydroascorbic acid and 2,3-diketogulonic acid. The photolysis of ascorbic acid appears to be affected by the concentration of active ingredient, pH, and viscosity of the medium and formulation characteristics. The study indicates that the ionized state and redox potentials of ascorbic acid are important factors in the photostability of the vitamin in cream formulations. The viscosity of the humectant present in the creams appears to influence the photostability of ascorbic acid. The results show that the physical stability of the creams is an important factor in the stabilization of the vitamin. In the cream formulations stored in the dark, ascorbic acid undergoes aerobic oxidation and the degradation is affected by similar factors as indicated in the photolysis reactions. The rate of oxidative degradation in the dark is about seventy times slower than that observed in the presence of light.