Knowledge, perceptions, and consumption behaviour of cosmetics among undergraduates of Sri Lanka: a descriptive cross-sectional study

Background

Despite the increasing usage of personal care products among young adolescents in Sri Lanka, limited studies have been conducted to understand the behaviour of cosmetic users and associated health complications. Therefore, the current study was conducted to evaluate the cosmetic consumption related behaviour of the undergraduate community in Sri Lanka and to identify the driving factors behind the incidences of cosmetic related adverse health effects.

Method

An analytical cross-sectional study was conducted by recruiting 421 undergraduates from five state universities in Sri Lanka through stratified random sampling, as the study population. Information on socio-demographic factors and cosmetic consumption behaviour of the participants were acquired through a self-administrated structured questionnaire, along with Knowledge, Attitudes and Practices (KAP) relevant for cosmetic usage. The Binary Logistic Regression model was used to determine the significant socio-demographic driving factors on cosmetic usage among the undergraduate community in Sri Lanka at a confidence level of 95%.

Results

Around 96.4% of the study population used one or more cosmetic products (77%) out of which, 75.3% experienced cosmetic related adverse health effects. Skin dryness (24%), acne (21%), allergies (20.5%) and rashes (19.8%), were identified as the most dominant adverse health effects, related to cosmetic usage. Perfumes (65.6%), face cream (63.2%) and body lotion/hand cream (60.6%), were the mostly used cosmetic products. Even though half of the study population exhibited higher levels of good practices during purchase (54.9%) and application (52%) of cosmetics, around 47.5% were characterized with a low level of knowledge on cosmetics. Gender, academic year, knowledge on cosmetics, monthly expenditure on cosmetics, source of recommendation for cosmetics, practices related to purchase and consumption of cosmetics and preference to receive medical care in case of cosmetic related emergency were recognized as significant risk factors (p < 0.05) associated with the incidence of cosmetic related adverse health effects among undergraduate students.

Conclusion

Given the high prevalence of cosmetic related adverse health effects, the health authorities of Sri Lanka should pay more attention towards the wellbeing and responsible cosmetic usage among undergraduates. Designing of effective tools and regulations to monitor the cosmetic market and improving the knowledge on cosmetics are recommended to ensure safe cosmetic usage within the country in general and of adolescent users in particular.

A Review of Anti-Inflammatory Phytoconstituents Used in Herbal Cosmeceuticals for the Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis

Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis affect babies, children, and adults and are characterized by red skin/spots, severe itching that appears on the face, head, legs, neck, and hands, and various causes of illness caused by various external and internal factors. AD is a type IIgE-mediated hypersensitivity reaction. Herbal preparations treat various dermatological diseases like dry skin, melasma, acne, and eczema. Cosmeceuticals are the connection between cosmetics and medicine, one of the world's most used forms of medicine. Cosmeceuticals products are beneficial in treating AD. Herbal cosmetics play a major role in curing various skin diseases. Today, various herbs used in cosmeceuticals have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, and antiseptic effects. Compared to synthetic preparations, herbal preparations have fewer side effects. This review paper introduces Atopic dermatitis, cosmeceutical, and various phytoconstituents like gallic acid, ferulic acid, boswellic acid, quercetin, and naringenin tetra hydroxyl flavanol glycoside, glycyrrhizic acid, epigallocatechin gallate, etc., used in atopic dermatitis.

Evolving Advances in the Cosmetic use of Probiotics and Postbiotics: Health, Regulatory and Marketing Aspects

Ongoing development in cosmetics is increasingly making use of probiotics, which are defined as "live microorganisms with health-enhancing properties mediated through ingestion or topical application to the host". The observation that several bacterial strains augment normal processes of healthy tissue maintenance, particularly for the skin, has opened up new avenues for the use of bacterial strains in cosmetics. A principal feature of such "cosmeceuticals" is an application of increasing insight into the biochemical nature of the skin's normal microbial flora, also called its microbiome. The opportunity of manipulating the skin microbiome to address various skin disorders has revealed novel routes for treatment. The skin microbiome manipulation approaches to address various skin disorders include skin microbiome transplantation, skin bacteriotherapy, and prebiotic stimulation. Research in this field has revealed that medical outcome-targeted manipulation of skin microbiome bacterial strain makeup may significantly increase skin health and appearance. Commercial availability of probiotic skincare products is rapidly expanding worldwide due to satisfactory laboratory results and public perception of probiotics as being intrinsically more wholesome than other bioactive substances, such as synthetics. Major outcomes of probiotic use include a significant reduction in skin wrinkling, acne and other conditions adversely affecting skin appearance and healthy function. Moreover, probiotics may additionally promote normal skin hydration, resulting in a vibrant and lustrous appearance. Nevertheless, significant technical challenges remain for the full optimization of probiotics in cosmetic products. This article summarizes the evolving nature of this field and explores current probiotic research initiatives, along with regulatory aspects and significant challenges in the manufacturing of cosmetics in the context of market expansion for these products.

UV filters in everyday cosmetic products, a comparative study

Today, UV filters are found as contaminants in a variety of biological fluids and environment, e.g. in vegetable crops and surface water. This is because UV filters are widely used in everyday products. In this context, we focused this study on cosmetic products, in order to assess the importance of this source of contamination. The study of 742 cosmetic products, excluding actual sunscreen products, but including hygiene, personal care and make-up products and perfumes revealed that the most common UV filters present are butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (90 products or 12.1% of products tested), octyl methoxycinnamate (75 products or 10.1% of products tested), octocrylene (62 products or 8.3% of products tested), octyl salicylate (43 products or 5.8% of products tested) and titanium dioxide (33 products or 4.4% of products tested). Very few UV filters are found in the hygiene products (only in 12 shampoos/conditioners and in 2 shower gels) and deodorants and toothpastes are completely free of them. Conversely, make-up and perfumes are frequently formulated with at least one UV filter. Seventy-five of the two hundred and forty-four (or 30.7%) skincare products studied contained at least one UV filter. 49.1 of the makeup products studied and 74.3% of perfumes contained it.

Hacking the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients List- How to Read Ingredients in Cosmetic Products and What Is Important for a Dermatologist to Know?

Skin specialists and practitioners are commonly requested to recommend on cosmetic products to improve skin appearance and address certain "non-medical" concerns. During residency and further education, dermatologists rarely expand their knowledge regarding cosmetic ingredients, except if they are a cause of medical condition or disease, such as contact dermatitis. This review provides guidelines to the INCI list structure, together with basic principles of cosmetic products formulation.

Plasma bisphenol a and phthalate levels in children with cerebral palsy: a case-control study

The case-control study aimed to evaluate potential sources of exposure and the plasma concentrations of bisphenol A (BPA) and phthalates in prepubertal children having cerebral palsy (CP) and healthy control. Blood samples of 68 CP and 70 controls were analyzed for BPA, di-(2-ethylhexyl)-phthalate (DEHP), mono-(2-ethylhexyl)-phthalate (MEHP), and dibutyl phthalate (DBP). BPA and DBP levels were similar in groups. The median DEHP and MEHP levels of the children with CP were significantly lower than those of the controls (p = 0.035, p < 0.001, respectively). Exposure to plastic food containers/bags, personal care hygiene products, household cleaners, wood/coal stove heating, and city water supplies were associated with increased odds of higher BPA and phthalate levels in children with CP. In conclusion, potential exposure sources for BPA and phthalates differ in children with CP and healthy controls, and children with CP are not exposed to higher levels of BPA and phthalates.

Applications of Engineered Skin Tissue for Cosmetic Component and Toxicology Detection

The scale of the cosmetic market is increasing every day. There are many safety risks to cosmetics, but they benefit people at the same time. The skin can become red, swollen, itchy, chronically toxic, and senescent due to the misuse of cosmetics, triggering skin injuries, with contact dermatitis being the most common. Therefore, there is an urgent need for a system that can scientifically and rationally detect the composition and perform a toxicological assessment of cosmetic products. Traditional detection methods rely on instrumentation and method selection, which are less sensitive and more complex to perform. Engineered skin tissue has emerged with the advent of tissue engineering technology as an emerging bioengineering technology. The ideal engineered skin tissue is the basis for building good in vitro structures and physiological functions in this field. This review introduces the existing cosmetic testing and toxicological evaluation methods, the current development status, and the types and characteristics of engineered skin tissue. The application of engineered skin tissue in the field of cosmetic composition detection and toxicological evaluation, as well as the different types of tissue engineering scaffold materials and three-dimensional (3D) organoid preparation approaches, is highlighted in this review to provide methods and ideas for constructing the next engineered skin tissue for cosmetic raw material component analysis and toxicological evaluation.

Modeling the percutaneous absorption of solvent-deposited solids over a wide dose range: II. Weak electrolytes

Dermal absorption of weak electrolytes applied to skin from pharmaceutical and cosmetic compositions is an important consideration for both their efficacy and skin safety. We developed a mechanistic, physics-based framework that simulates this process for leave on applications following solvent deposition. We incorporated this framework into our finite dose computational skin permeation model previously tested with nonelectrolytes to generate quantitative predictions for weak electrolytes. To test the model, we analyzed experimental data from an in vitro human skin permeation study of a weak acid (benzoic acid) and a weak base (propranolol) and their sodium and hydrochloride salts from simple, ethanol/water vehicles as a function of dose and ionization state. Key factors controlling absorption are the pH and buffer capacity of the dose solution, the dissolution rate of precipitated solids into a lipid boundary layer and the rate of conversion of the deposited solid to its conjugate form as the nonionized component permeates and (sometimes) evaporates from the skin surface. The resulting framework not only describes the current test data but has the potential to predict the absorption of other weak electrolytes following topical application.

Potential role of inflammaging mediated by the complement system in enlarged facial pores

BACKGROUND

Enlarged facial pores are a common cosmetic concern of the skin, rather than a disease, and have not received much attention from dermatologists in recent years. Consequently, progress in understanding their pathogenesis has been limited, and current cosmetic solutions have limitations. Given that the complement system has regained interest as a key player in chronic inflammatory skin conditions, various mechanisms involving this system are being investigated.

OBJECTIVE

We aimed to shed light on the mechanism underlying enlarged facial pores by examining the role of the complement system in skin.

METHODS

We conducted a comprehensive literature search utilizing various academic databases including PubMed, Web of Science, and Google Scholar. Employing keywords such as "complement system," "inflammation," "facial pores," "enlarged," and "mechanisms," we compiled a selection of relevant studies. These studies provided a comprehensive understanding of the intricate mechanisms underlying the relationship between the "complement system" and "inflammation" within the context of facial pore enlargement.

RESULTS

Our findings suggest that inflammaging mediated by complement activation may be a critical player in the formation of enlarged facial pores. Specifically, overactivation of the complement system leading to the accumulation of complement fragments could be a major contributor to this process. Notably, the complement system in skin may be involved in a range of skin issues, including aging.

CONCLUSION

Modulating the complement system presents a promising avenue for future research in improving skin health. Further basic and clinical research is necessary to validate these findings, but we hope that this study can serve as a theoretical foundation for the development of targeted cosmetics.

Use of personal care product mixtures and incident hormone-sensitive cancers in the Sister Study: A U.S.-wide prospective cohort

BACKGROUND

Personal care products (PCPs), a source of endocrine-disrupting chemical exposure, may be associated with the risk of hormone-sensitive cancers. Few studies have investigated associations for PCP use with the incidence of hormone-sensitive cancers or considered the joint effect of multiple correlated PCPs. We examined associations between frequently used, or "everyday", PCPs and incident cancers of the breast, ovary, and uterus with a fucus on the joint effect of multiple product exposure.

METHODS

Sister Study participants (n=49 899) self-reported frequency of use in the year before enrollment (2003-2009) for 41 PCPs. Using five-level frequency categories based on questionnaire options, hazard ratios (HRs) and 95% confidence intervals (CIs) were estimated for the associations between multiple PCP use and incident breast, ovarian, and uterine cancer using quantile-based g-computation with Cox proportional hazards regression as the underlying model. Multiple PCP use was examined using groupings (beauty, hygiene, and skincare products) determined by both a priori knowledge and Spearman correlation coefficients for co-occurring product use. Associations between individual PCPs and the three cancers were also examined using Cox proportional hazards models coupling with Benjamini-Hochberg procedure for multiple comparisons.

RESULTS

Over an average of 11.6 years, 4 226 breast, 277 ovarian, and 403 uterine cancer cases were identified. Positive associations were observed between the hygiene mixture and ovarian cancer (HR=1.35, 95%CI=1.00, 1.83) and the beauty mixture with postmenopausal breast cancer (HR=1.08, 95%CI=1.01, 1.16). Additionally, we observed an inverse association between the skincare mixture and breast cancer (HR=0.91, 95%CI=0.83, 0.99). No significant associations were observed for individual products after corrected for multiple comparison.

CONCLUSIONS

Findings from this multi-product, joint-effect approach contribute to the growing body of evidence for associations between PCPs and breast cancer and provides novel information on ovarian and uterine cancer.

Water-soluble polymers: Emerging contaminants detected, separated and quantified by a novel GPC/MALDI-TOF method

Water-soluble polymers (WSPs) are additives used as thickeners, stabilisers and flocculants in industry and in household products, including personal care products. Given their widespread use, it is likely WSPs enter the environment, particularly through wastewaters. This is of concern as there is little ecotoxicological research on their fate and behaviour once in the environment, which means their risk to aquatic life is not understood. The lack of suitable analytical techniques to detect, characterise and quantify WSPs hinders research on the potential impact of these polymers. A novel method has been developed that identifies polymers within a sample and separates them using gel-permeation chromatography (GPC). This is coupled with matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionisation time-of-flight mass spectrometry (MALDI-TOF MS), to quantify the polymer fractions using molecular weight information. This process has been carried out on a range of aqueous media. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) ingredients were successfully separated from non-polymeric material in a commercial shaving gel personal care product (PCP), before being quantified at 1.62 wt%. This method was applied to a spiked wastewater influent sample to demonstrate the extraction and separation of PEG from organic constituents such as dissolved organic matter (DOM). This highlighted the additional challenges of analysing WSPs in the environment, as factors such as sorption and biodegradation affected the total recovery of PEG, with an extraction efficiency of 53%. Overall, this method was applied for the extraction of PEG from a PCP with accurate quantification, before a proof-of-concept extraction from wastewater demonstrated the difficulties associated with WSP analysis in environmental samples. This method provides opportunities to use tandem GPC/MALDI-TOF MS to quantify WSPs in a broad array of environmental samples. Additional studies could include its application to wastewater or freshwater monitoring.

Cosmeceuticals: A transit state from synthetic to natural

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied cosmetic products containing a biologically active ingredient with a pharmaceutical effect that improves, nourishes, and treats the skin appearance. The trend of cosmeceuticals began during the mid-20th century due to its potent ingredients with therapeutic effects for various skin ailments. Even though there is a great advancement in cosmetics, which shows the risk of cosmetic linked melanoma, endocrine disorders, and birth defects which was one in 1500 people during 1935 have increased to one in 75 people in 2000. Hence, as a part of reducing the harmful effect, natural ingredients were added to the formulation to give the pharmaceutical effect. Thus, natural/herbal cosmeceuticals were introduced. Due to the awareness of the side effects such as photo-toxicity, mutagenicity, irritation by these synthetic products, people started preferring herbal/natural cosmetic products. Moreover, natural cosmeceuticals were proven to be effective against various dermatological conditions as well as have fewer side effects marked the natural/herbal cosmeceuticals in the market. Unlike a drug, cosmeceutical products undergo safety, toxicity, and efficacy tests, but these are not classified under Food and Drug Administration. This review will give an insight into different natural ingredients used in natural/herbal cosmeceutical formulation and their function challenges faced during formulation, advantages of natural cosmeceuticals over regular cosmeceuticals, and regulatory aspects in India.

Cellulite: An Update on Pathogenesis and Management

Cellulite is a common cosmetic concern among postpubertal women. Despite its high prevalence, there have been only a few high-quality studies assessing its exact prevalence, risk factors, and pathophysiologic mechanisms. It has been difficult to achieve long-lasting results with the available treatments, including topical agents, energy-based devices, subcision, and injectables. In this review, the authors summarize the proposed etiologic factors, grading scales, and treatment options. Further well-designed studies are essential to improve our knowledge of the condition and lead to improved treatment strategies.

Physiological impact of personal care product constituents on non-target aquatic organisms

Personal care products (PCPs) are products used in cleaning, beautification, grooming, and personal hygiene. The rise in diversity, usage, and availability of PCPs has resulted in their higher accumulation in the environment. Thus, these constitute an emerging category of environmental contaminants due to the potential of its constituents (chemical and non-chemical) to induce various physiological effects even at lower concentrations (ng/L). For analyzing the impact of the PCPs constituents on the non-target organism about 300 article including research articles, review articles and guidelines were studied from 2000 to 2023. This review aims to firstly discuss the fate and accumulation of PCPs in the aquatic environment and organisms; secondly provides overview of environmental risks that are linked to PCPs; thirdly review the trends, current status of regulations and risks associated with PCPs and finally discuss the knowledge gaps and future perspectives for future research. The article discusses important constituents of PCPs such as antimicrobials, cleansing agents and disinfectants, fragrances, insect repellent, moisturizers, plasticizers, preservatives, surfactants, UV filters, and UV stabilizers. Each of them has been found to display certain toxic impact on the aquatic organisms especially the plasticizers and UV filters. These continuously and persistently release biologically active and inactive components which interferes with the physiological system of the non-target organism such as fish, corals, shrimps, bivalves, algae, etc. With a rise in the number of toxicity reports, concerns are being raised over the potential impacts of these contaminant on aquatic organism and humans. The rate of adoption of nanotechnology in PCPs is greater than the evaluation of the safety risk associated with the nano-additives. Hence, this review article presents the current state of knowledge on PCPs in aquatic ecosystems.

Microbeads in personal care products sold in Pakistan: extraction, quantification, characterization, and buoyancy analysis

Microbeads used in personal care products (PCPs) as an exfoliating agent or as a sorbent phase for delivering active ingredients are the most common sources of microplastics. The release of these plastic microbeads into aquatic environments has raised significant concerns due to their direct availability for ingestion by organisms upon entering the recipient waters. In this study, twelve personal care products (PCPs; 5 face washes and 7 scrubs) were analyzed for microbead content, size, polymer type, and buoyant behavior. Among the face washes, the highest microbead content (i.e., 11 ± 1.2 mg/g) was found in Neutrogena (NS), while the lowest was found in Nivea (NI) with 0.33 ± 0 mg/g. In case of scrubs, Cool and Cool (CL) contained a higher concentration of microbeads (i.e., 57.08±14.15 mg/g) and a lower concentration was found in Yong Chin (YC) (i.e., 10.5±1.5 mg/g). The sizes of microbeads ranged from 3.14 ± 0 to 747 ± 313 μm, and most of the isolated microbeads showed negative buoyant behavior in both freshwater and seawater. The FTIR spectra showed that the microbeads were mainly composed of ethyl-vinyl acetate (66.66%), high-density polyethylene (16.66%), polyethylene terephthalate (8.3%), and nitrile (8.3%). The presence of plastic microbeads in PCPs highlights the need to regulate their use as an exfoliating agent and to raise public awareness to prevent the discharge of these persistent and potentially harmful elements into the environment.

Comparison of aggregated exposure to perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) from diet and personal care products with concentrations in blood using a PBPK model - Results from the Norwegian biomonitoring study in EuroMix

BACKGROUND

Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) constitute a large group of compounds that are water, stain, and oil repellent. Numerous sources contribute to the blood levels of PFAS in the European population. The main contributor for perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) is food, house dust, consumer products and personal care products (PCPs).

OBJECTIVES

The purpose of the present work is to calculate the dietary and dermal external exposure to PFOA, estimate the aggregated internal exposure from diet and PCPs using a PBPK model, and compare estimates with measured concentrations.

METHODS

Detailed information on diet and PCP use from the EuroMix study is combined with concentration data of PFOA in food and PCPs in a probabilistic exposure assessment. A physiologically based pharmacokinetic model (PBPK) was further refined by incorporating a dermal exposure pathway, and changes in the kidney and faecal excretion.

RESULTS

The aggregated internal exposure using the PBPK model shows that the major contributor to the internal exposure is diet for both males and females. The estimated internal exposure of PFOA for the EuroMix population was in the same range but lower than the measured blood concentrations using the lower bound (LB) external exposure estimates, showing that the LB estimates are underestimations. For seven females the internal exposure of PFOA were higher from PCPs than from diet.

CONCLUSION

PCPs and diet contributed in the same range to the internal PFOA exposure for several women participating in EuroMix. This calls for additional studies on exposure to PFOA and possibly other PFAS from PCPs, especially for women. Overall, PBPK modelling was shown as valuable tool in understanding the sources of PFOA exposure and in guiding risk assessments and regulatory decisions.

[Current status and challenges of long-term safety evaluation of using tests of cosmetics on human body]

The use of cosmetics in the crowd has the long-term characteristics. The adverse reactions of cosmetics reported in other country in the world suggest that human patch tests and short-term human using test may not be sufficient to evaluate the safety of high-risk new cosmetic raw ingredients, and long-term human using test should be conducted for evaluation. Therefore, this article reviews the key factors that affect long-term human trial trials, such as site of use, single-use amount, frequency of use, duration of use, and subject conditions, providing supportive evidence for standardized safety evaluation standards for long-term human using test of cosmetics.

Towards skin-on-a-chip for screening the dermal absorption of cosmetics

Over the past few decades, there have been increasing global efforts to limit or ban the use of animals for testing cosmetic products. This ambition has been at the heart of international endeavours to develop new in vitro and animal-free approaches for assessing the safety of cosmetics. While several of these new approach methodologies (NAMs) have been approved for assessing different toxicological endpoints in the UK and across the EU, there remains an absence of animal-free methods for screening for dermal absorption; a measure that assesses the degree to which chemical substances can become systemically available through contact with human skin. Here, we identify some of the major technical barriers that have impacted regulatory recognition of an in vitro skin model for this purpose and propose how these could be overcome on-chip using artificial cells engineered from the bottom-up. As part of our future perspective, we suggest how this could be realised using a digital biomanufacturing pipeline that connects the design, microfluidic generation and 3D printing of artificial cells into user-crafted synthetic tissues. We highlight milestone achievements towards this goal, identify future challenges, and suggest how the ability to engineer animal-free skin models could have significant long-term consequences for dermal absorption screening, as well as for other applications.

Imidazolidinyl Urea

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety reviewed updated information that has become available since their original assessment from 1980, along with updated information regarding product types, and frequency and concentrations of use, and reaffirmed their original conclusion that Imidazolidinyl Urea is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the practices of use and concentration as described in this report.

Repeat-exposure in vitro protocol to assess the risk of antimicrobial resistance (AMR) development from use of personal care products: Case study using an antibacterial liquid handwash

The global crisis we are facing with regard to antibiotic resistance has been largely attributed to the overuse and misuse of antibiotics in healthcare and agriculture. However, there is also growing global concern about cross-resistance between biocides and antibiotics. This has made clear the need for more research in this area along with easy-to-perform, but realistic, methods to characterise the potential risk associated with cross-resistance to antibiotics due to biocide use. The primary aim of this work was to develop a repeat-exposure method for predicting bacterial resistance to microbicides, including their cross-resistance to antibiotics. Realism is incorporated in the presented protocol through the use of relevant concentrations and contact times, validated neutralisers, appropriate test organisms and repeat-exposures. The protocol can be applied to formulated microbicides, as shown in the liquid handwash case study presented here. Five bacterial strains were included in the study: Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 15442, Staphylococcus epidermidis ATCC 14990, Escherichia coli ATCC 10536 and Enterococcus hirae ATCC 10541. The protocol parameters used in the case study reflected a worst-case exposure scenario (in terms of contact time and concentration). The results demonstrated that repeated exposure to the liquid handwash would not be expected to lead to development of bacterial resistance or cross-resistance to antibiotics. It is envisaged that this protocol could be used by manufacturers of microbicidal formulations to assess whether repeated use of the test products would contribute to bacterial resistance development or cross-resistance to antibiotics.

Plants with cosmetic uses

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products

OBJECTIVE

Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations.

METHODS

Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined.

RESULTS

Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light.

CONCLUSION

Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

Trends in biopolymer science applied to cosmetics

The term biopolymer refers to materials obtained by chemically modifying natural biological substances or producing them through biotechnological processes. They are biodegradable, biocompatible and non-toxic. Due to these advantages, biopolymers have wide applications in conventional cosmetics and new trends and have emerged as essential ingredients that function as rheological modifiers, emulsifiers, film-formers, moisturizers, hydrators, antimicrobials and, more recently, materials with metabolic activity on skin. Developing approaches that exploit these features is a challenge for formulating skin, hair and oral care products and dermatological formulations. This article presents an overview of the use of the principal biopolymers used in cosmetic formulations and describes their sources, recently derived structures, novel applications and safety aspects of the use of these molecules.