The skin barrier in healthy and diseased state

The diversity of shedder tests and a novel factor that affects DNA transfer

Since the first shedder test was formulated almost 20 years ago, a plethora of different test strategies has emerged. The amount of data generated so far is considerable. However, because of the limited reproducibility of its results, the reliability of the shedder concept is frequently questioned. This study provides a literature overview of applied shedder tests that capture the diversity of the concept. It is pointed out to what extent different classification criteria, workflows, and trace evaluation can impair the classification outcome. The robustness of shedder status was assessed by applying a promising approach established by Fonneløp et al. (Forensic Sci Int Genet 29:48-60, 21). Data provide similar results to those in recent studies but also ambiguous shedder classifications. The applied shedder test was adapted based on our own as well as the reviewed data. With novel classification parameters, promising results were achieved. This study reveals uncertainties and inconsistencies of the shedder concept. Recommendations for harmonization and transparency are proposed. Implementation of the recommendations may result in an increased impact on casework and transfer studies, including activity-level assessments. Furthermore, this study shows that moisturizers affect participants' shedder status as well as DNA transfer. The impact appears to remain relevant even 60 min post ointment application but depends greatly on the type of moisturizer applied.

Effect of a Food for Special Medical Purposes for Muscle Recovery, Consisting of Arginine, Glutamine and Beta-Hydroxy-Beta-Methylbutyrate on Body Composition and Skin Health in Overweight and Obese Class I Sedentary Postmenopausal Women

The consumption of dietary amino acids has been evaluated for therapeutic and safety intervention in obesity. In particular, three molecules have been shown to be effective: arginine, glutamine and leucine (and its metabolite beta-hydroxy-beta-methylbutyrate, HMB). This randomized, double-blinded pilot study in obese postmenopausal patients aimed to evaluate the efficacy of the administration of a specific food for special medical purposes (FSMP) consisting of arginine, glutamine and HMB on body composition, in particular, visceral adipose tissue (VAT), assessed by dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA), as the primary endpoint. The secondary endpoint was to evaluate the effects on skin health through a validated self-reported questionnaire. A significant improvement on VAT of Δ = -153.600, p = 0.01 was recorded in the intervention group. Skin health showed a significant improvement in the treatment group for the following: bright Δ = 1.400 (0.758; 2.042), elasticity Δ = 0.900 (0.239; 1.561), wrinkles Δ = 0.800 (0.276; 1.324), and on total score, Δ = 3.000 (1.871; 4.129). In the intervention group, the improvement in VAT was associated with an improvement in the bright score (r = -0.58; p = 0.01). In conclusion, this study demonstrated that the intake for 4-weeks of arginine, glutamine and HMB effects a significant reduction in VAT and improves skin condition, while fat free mass (FFM) is maintained, thus achieving "high-quality" weight loss.

Experimental Models for the Study of Hereditary Cornification Defects

Ichthyoses comprise a broad spectrum of keratinization disorders due to hereditary defects of cornification. Until now, mutations in more than 50 genes, mostly coding for structural proteins involved in epidermal barrier formation, have been identified as causes for different types of these keratinization disorders. However, due to the high heterogeneity and difficulties in the establishment of valid experimental models, research in this field remains challenging and translation of novel findings to clinical practice is difficult. In this review, we provide an overview of existing models to study hereditary cornification defects with focus on ichthyoses and palmoplantar keratodermas.

Enhanced skin adhesive property of electrospun α-cyclodextrin/nonanyl group-modified poly(vinyl alcohol) inclusion complex fiber sheet

Many medical tapes on the market lack sufficient adhesive strength and breathability. Owing to its high biocompatibility, poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA), a synthetic polymer, has attracted attention in the medical field. In this study, we aimed to prepare an inclusion complex fiber (ICFiber) using α-cyclodextrin (α-CD) and nonanyl-group-modified PVA (C9-PVA) for skin adhesion with improved performance. By changing the concentration of α-CD, six microfiber sheets were fabricated by electrospinning the α-CD/2.3C9-PVA inclusion complex solutions. The bonding strength and energy of the ICFiber sheets on the porcine skin were evaluated. Among the tested ICFiber sheets, the ICFiber-3 (molar ratio of α-CD/C9 groups was 0.612) sheet showed high tensile strength and break strain. The bonding strength and energy of ICFiber-3 sheet on porcine skin were 1.10 ± 0.11 N and 5.07 ± 0.94 J m-2, respectively, in the presence of water. In addition, ICFiber-3 sheet showed a better water vapor transmission rate (0.95 ± 0.02 mL per day) than commercial tapes. These results demonstrate that the α-CD/2.3C9-PVA ICFiber sheet is a promising adhesive for wearable medical devices.

Bench approaches to study the detrimental cutaneous impact of tropospheric ozone

Being exposed to ground-level ozone (O₃), as it is often the case in polluted cities, is known to have a detrimental impact on skin. O₃ induces antioxidant depletion and lipid peroxidation in the upper skin layers and this effect has repercussions on deeper cellular layers, triggering a cascade of cellular stress and inflammatory responses. Repetitive exposure to high levels of O₃ may lead to chronic damages of the cutaneous tissue, cause premature skin aging and aggravate skin diseases such as contact dermatitis and urticaria. This review paper debates about the most relevant experimental approaches that must be considered to gather deeper insights about the complex biological processes that are activated when the skin is exposed to O₃. Having a better understanding of O₃ effects on skin barrier properties and stress responses could help the whole dermato-cosmetic industry to design innovative protective solutions and develop specific cosmetic regime to protect the skin of every citizen, especially those living in areas where exposure to high levels of O₃ is of concern to human health.

High-resolution two-photon polymerization: the most versatile technique for the fabrication of microneedle arrays

Microneedle patches have received much interest in the last two decades as drug/vaccine delivery or fluid sampling systems for diagnostic and monitoring purposes. Microneedles are manufactured using a variety of additive and subtractive micromanufacturing techniques. In the last decade, much attention has been paid to using additive manufacturing techniques in both research and industry, such as 3D printing, fused deposition modeling, inkjet printing, and two-photon polymerization (2PP), with 2PP being the most flexible method for the fabrication of microneedle arrays. 2PP is one of the most versatile and precise additive manufacturing processes, which enables the fabrication of arbitrary three-dimensional (3D) prototypes directly from computer-aided-design (CAD) models with a resolution down to 100 nm. Due to its unprecedented flexibility and high spatial resolution, the use of this technology has been widespread for the fabrication of bio-microdevices and bio-nanodevices such as microneedles and microfluidic devices. This is a pioneering transformative technology that facilitates the fabrication of complex miniaturized structures that cannot be fabricated with established multistep manufacturing methods such as injection molding, photolithography, and etching. Thus, microstructures are designed according to structural and fluid dynamics considerations rather than the manufacturing constraints imposed by methods such as machining or etching processes. This article presents the fundamentals of 2PP and the recent development of microneedle array fabrication through 2PP as a precise and unique method for the manufacture of microstructures, which may overcome the shortcomings of conventional manufacturing processes.

Borage Oil Enhances Lamellar Body Content and Alters Fatty Acid Composition of Epidermal Ceramides in Essential Fatty Acid-Deficient Guinea Pigs

Borage oil [BO: 40.9% linoleic acid (LNA) and 24.0% γ-linolenic acid (GLA)] reverses disrupted epidermal lipid barrier in essential fatty acid deficiency (EFAD). We determined the effects of BO on lamellar body (LB) content and LNA and GLA incorporation into epidermal ceramide 1 (CER1) and epidermal ceramide 2 (CER2), major barrier lipids. EFAD was induced in guinea pigs by a diet of 6% hydrogenated coconut oil (HCO) for 10 weeks (group HCO) or 8 weeks followed by 6% BO for 2 weeks (group HCO + BO). LB content and LNA and GLA incorporation into CER1 were higher in group HCO + BO than in group HCO. Small but significant levels of LNA, GLA, and their C20-metabolized fatty acids [dihomo-γ-linolenic acid (DGLA) and arachidonic acid (ARA)] were incorporated into CER2, where ARA was detected at a level lower than LNA, but DGLA incorporation exceeded that for GLA in group HCO + BO. Dietary BO enhanced LB content and differential incorporation of GLA into CER1 and DGLA into CER2.

EGR-1 acts as a transcriptional activator of KLK7 under IL-13 stimulation

Kallikrein-related peptidase 7 (KLK7) is a chymotrypsin-like serine peptidase that plays a crucial role in regulating skin desquamation. KLK7 expression is highly upregulated in atopic dermatitis (AD) skin lesions in both humans and mice. Th2-lymphocyte-derived cytokines, including interleukin (IL)-4 and IL-13, have been shown to promote KLK7 expression in keratinocytes in patients with AD. However, the molecular mechanism underlying KLK7 expression remains poorly understood. Here, we demonstrated that the EGR-1-binding sequence (EBS) in the promoter region of KLK7 played a crucial role in IL-13-induced KLK7 transcription. Disruption of the EBS induced by a point mutation inhibited IL-13-induced KLK7 promoter activity. EGR-1 was shown to directly bind to the EBS, and EGR1 knockdown with shRNA abrogated IL-13-induced KLK7 expression. Using Egr1 knockout mice, we showed that Egr-1 was necessary for KLK7 expression in AD-like lesions induced by the repeated topical application of 2,4-dinitrobenzene on the dorsal skin of mice. We also demonstrated that the ERK1/2 mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway was responsible for EGR-1-dependent KLK7 transcription in response to IL-13 stimulation. Our findings delineate a signaling pathway that contributes to the regulation of KLK7 expression through the IL13-ERK MAPK-EGR1 signaling axis.

Tracking heavy-water-incorporated confocal Raman spectroscopy for evaluating the effects of PEGylated emulsifiers on skin barrier

The class of PEGylated emulsifiers finds broad application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry. We target on one of the categories of polyethylene glycol (PEG) alkyl ethers with different lipophilic and hydrophilic chain length and aim to examine their effects on the skin comprehensively. In this study, we employed confocal Raman spectroscopy for skin depth profiling and imaging. A unique probe of heavy water (D₂ O) was incorporated, which can be tracked percutaneously and simultaneously monitor the effects caused by emulsifiers. According to the results, most of the PEGylated emulsifiers caused changes in skin lipid content/organization and induced the alteration in relative water content/hydrogen bonding structure. The results obtained from the depth profiling analysis provided the possibility to estimate the least penetration depth of emulsifiers. Among them, PEG-20 ethers displayed the most penetration ability. Meanwhile, it is interesting to find that the treatment of emulsifiers also affected the spatial distribution of D₂ O whose differences were in line with the molecular skin variations. In particular, the isotopic H/D substitution in the skin was highlighted in detail. This result supports the possibility to use D₂ O as an excellent and cost-effective probe to evaluate the skin barrier function.

The emerging potential of cold atmospheric plasma in skin biology

The maintenance of skin integrity is crucial to ensure the physiological barrier against exogenous compounds, microorganisms and dehydration but also to fulfill social and aesthetic purposes. Besides the development of new actives intended to enter a formulation, innovative technologies based on physical principles have been proposed in the last years. Among them, Cold Atmospheric Plasma (CAP) technology, which already showed interesting results in dermatology, is currently being studied for its potential in skin treatments and cares. CAP bio-medical studies gather several different expertise ranging from physics to biology through chemistry and biochemistry, making this topic hard to pin. In this review we provide a broad survey of the interactions between CAP and skin. In the first section, we tried to give some fundamentals on skin structure and physiology, related to its essential functions, together with the main bases on cold plasma and its physicochemical properties. In the following parts we dissected and analyzed each CAP parameter to highlight the already known and the possible effects they can play on skin. This overview aims to get an idea of the potential of cold atmospheric plasma technology in skin biology for the future developments of dermo-cosmetic treatments, for example in aging prevention.

In Vitro Performance of Dutasteride-Nanostructured Lipid Carriers Coated with Lauric Acid-Chitosan Oligomer for Dermal Delivery

Dutasteride, licensed as an oral medicine for the treatment of benign prostatic hypoplasia, has been investigated as a treatment for androgenic alopecia. In this study, the potential for dustasteride to be delivered topically in order to reduce systemic exposure, irritation of the skin, and also cytotoxicity was explored. Chitosan oligomer (CSO) was successfully synthesised with lauric acid as a coating for a dutasteride-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers (DST-NLCs) system. DST-NLCs were prepared using a combination of melt-dispersion and ultrasonication. These negatively charged NLCs (-18.0 mV) had a mean particle size of ~184 nm, which was not significantly increased (p > 0.05) when coated with lauric acid-chitosan oligomer (CSO-LA), whilst the surface charge changed to positive (+24.8 mV). The entrapment efficiency of DST-NLCs was 97%, and coated and uncoated preparations were physically stable for up to 180 days at 4-8 °C. The drug release was slower from DST-NLCs coated with CSO-LA than from uncoated NLCs, with no detectable drug permeation through full-thickness pig ear skin from either preparation. Considering the cytotoxicity, the IC50 values for the DST-NLCs, coated and uncoated with CSO-LA were greater than for dutasteride alone (p < 0.05). DST-NLCs and empty NLCs coated with CSO-LA at 25 µM increased the cell proliferation compared to the control, and no skin irritation was observed when the DST-NLC formulations were tested using EpiDerm™. The cell and skin uptake studies of coated and uncoated NLCs incorporating the fluorescent marker Coumarin-6 showed the time-dependent uptake of Coumarin-6. Overall, the findings suggest that DST-NLCs coated with CSO-LA represent a promising formulation strategy for dutasteride delivery for the treatment of androgenic alopecia, with a reduced cytotoxicity compared to that of the drug alone and lower irritancy than an ethanolic solution of dutasteride.

Phosphatidylinositol-specific phospholipase C enhances epidermal penetration by Staphylococcus aureus

Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) commonly colonizes the human skin and nostrils. However, it is also associated with a wide variety of diseases. S. aureus is frequently isolated from the skin of patients with atopic dermatitis (AD), and is linked to increased disease severity. S. aureus impairs the skin barrier and triggers inflammation through the secretion of various virulence factors. S. aureus secretes phosphatidylinositol-specific phospholipase C (PI-PLC), which hydrolyses phosphatidylinositol and cleaves glycosylphosphatidylinositol-anchored proteins. However, the role of S. aureus PI-PLC in the pathogenesis of skin diseases, including AD, remains unclear. In this study, we sought to determine the role of S. aureus PI-PLC in the pathogenesis of skin diseases. PI-PLC was observed to enhance the invasion and persistence of S. aureus in keratinocytes. Besides, PI-PLC promoted the penetration of S. aureus through the epidermal barrier in a mouse model of AD and the human organotypic epidermal equivalent. Furthermore, the loss of PI-PLC attenuated epidermal hyperplasia and the infiltration of Gr-1⁺ cells and CD4⁺ cells induced by S. aureus infection in the mouse model of AD. Collectively, these results indicate that PI-PLC eases the entry of S. aureus into the dermis and aggravates acanthosis and immune cell infiltration in infected skin.

A New Method for In-Situ Skin Penetration Analysis by Confocal Raman Microscopy

In the development of dermal drug formulations and cosmetics, understanding the penetration properties of the active ingredients is crucial. Given that widespread methods, including tape stripping, lack in spatial resolution, while being time- and labour-intensive, Confocal Raman Microscopy is a promising alternative. In optimizing topically applied formulations, or the development of generic formulations, comparative in-situ measurements have a huge potential of saving time and resources. In this work, we show our approach to in-situ skin penetration analysis by confocal Raman Microscopy. To analyse feasibility of the approach, we used caffeine solutions as model vehicles and tested the effectiveness of 1,2-pentanediol as a penetration enhancer for delivery to the skin.

Nanocosmeceuticals: facets and aspects

The global cosmetic market prized $532.43 billion USD in 2017 is expected to reach $805.61 billion USD by 2023, with a 7.14% compound annual growth rate. These figures have appealed to the cosmeceutical players for developing new and effective products containing advanced materials. Cosmetics incorporated with pharmaceutical actives, termed as 'cosmeceuticals,' are receiving an overwhelming response from cosmetic industry. Nowadays, the implementation of nanotechnology for enhanced effectiveness of cosmeceuticals is witnessing a huge success. These applications include remedies for hair damage, wrinkles, aging and skin dryness. Currently, there is a need to establish regulations and harmonized guidelines for nanotechnology-based products to assess their efficacy, safety and toxicity profiles. This review summarizes current development, applications, safety and regulations of nanocosmeceuticals.

Potent in vitro activity of curcumin and quercetin co-encapsulated in nanovesicles without hyaluronan against Aspergillus and Candida isolates

The rapid emergence of resistance to classical antifungals has increased the interest in novel antifungal compounds. Curcumin and quercetin are two natural plant-derived bioactive molecules shown to promote wound healing in injured tissues. In this study, we investigated the in vitro susceptibility of several Aspergillus and Candida isolates to curcumin and quercetin encapsulated in nanovesicles with and without hyaluronan and elucidated the efficacy of these nanovesicles as topical drug delivery systems. Antifungal susceptibility testing performed according to the CLSI guidelines indicated that curcumin-quercetin co-encapsulated in nanovesicles without hyaluronan (CUR-QUE-NV-WH) had stronger activity against Candida isolates than fluconazole. Furthermore, CUR-QUE-NV-WH showed efficacy against fluconazole-resistant Candida isolates as evidenced by MICs at least two times lower than those of fluconazole. Examination of skin permeation profiles using an in vitro Franz diffusion cell system revealed that curcumin and quercetin delivered by nanovesicles were released and accumulated in the skin; however, only quercetin could penetrate through the skin layers. Collectively, our results demonstrate that CUR-QUE-NV-WH has potent antifungal activity against Candida isolates and might be a topical treatment, which warrants its further investigation as a novel antifungal agent.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Polyglycerol-Based Thermoresponsive Nanocapsules Induce Skin Hydration and Serve as a Skin Penetration Enhancer

The use of penetration enhancers (chemical or physical) has been proven to dramatically improve the penetration of therapeutics. Nevertheless, their use poses great risks, as they can lead to permanent damage of the skin, reduce its barrier efficiency, and result in the intrusion of harmful substances. Among the most used skin penetration enhancers, water is greatly accepted because skin quickly recovers from its exposure. Nanocapsules (NCs) represent a promising combination of the carrier system and penetration enhancer because their water-containing void combined with their polymer-based shell can be used to induce high local skin hydration, while simultaneously aiding the transport of drugs across the skin barrier. In this study, NCs were synthesized with a void core of 100 nm in diameter, a thermoresponsive shell based on different ratios of poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) and poly(N-isopropylmethacrylamide) as thermoresponsive polymers, and dendritic polyglycerol as a macromolecular cross-linker. These NCs can shrink or swell upon a thermal trigger, which was used to induce the release of the entrapped water in a controlled fashion. The interactions and effects of thermoresponsive NCs on the stratum corneum of excised human skin were investigated using fluorescence microscopy, high-resolution optical microscopy, and stimulated Raman spectromicroscopy. It could be observed that the thermoresponsive NCs increase the amount of deuterated water that penetrated into the viable epidermis. Moreover, NCs increased the skin penetration of a high-molecular weight dye (Atto Oxa12 NHS ester, MW = 835 g/mol) with respect to formulations in water or 30% DMSO, emphasizing the features of the NCs as a skin penetration enhancer.

Dexpanthenol in Wound Healing after Medical and Cosmetic Interventions (Postprocedure Wound Healing)

With the availability of new technologies, the number of subjects undergoing medical and cosmetic interventions is increasing. Many procedures (e.g., ablative fractional laser treatment) resulting in superficial/minor wounds require appropriate aftercare to prevent complications in wound healing and poor cosmetic outcome. We review the published evidence of the usefulness of topical dexpanthenol in postprocedure wound healing and the associated mechanisms of action at the molecular level. A search in the PubMed and Embase databases was performed to query the terms dexpanthenol, panthenol, superficial wound, minor wound, wound healing, skin repair, and postprocedure. Search results were categorized as clinical trials and in vitro studies. In vitro and clinical studies provided evidence that topically applied dexpanthenol promotes superficial and postprocedure wound healing. Latest findings confirmed that dexpanthenol upregulates genes that are critical for the healing process. The gene expression data are of clinical relevance as evidenced by prospective clinical studies indicating that topical dexpanthenol accelerates wound healing with rapid re-epithelialization and restoration of skin barrier function following skin injury. It can therefore be inferred that topical dexpanthenol represents an appropriate and state-of-the-art treatment option for superficial postprocedure wounds, especially when applied early after the superficial skin damage.

Ex Vivo Human Skin is not a Barrier for Cyclic Siloxanes (Cyclic Silicones): Evidence of Diffusion, Bioaccumulation, and Risk of Dermal Absorption Using a New Validated GC-FID Procedure

Cyclic methylsiloxanes D4, D5, D6 (also called cyclic silicones) are widely used in various dermatological products and cosmetics, both for children and adults. As a result of their unique physicochemical properties, the production of cyclic methylsiloxanes has greatly increased over the last few years, which has resulted in increased exposure to mankind. The validated quantitative for gas chromatography-flame ionization detector (GC-FID) analysis with using the transdermal diffusion system with vertical Franz cells demonstrated that ex vivo human skin is not a barrier to cyclic siloxanes. D4, D5, and D6 have a specific affinity to stratum corneum (SC) (especially D6), and can even diffuse into the deeper layers of the skin (epidermis (E) and dermis (D)), or into the receptor fluid as well. An important achievement of this work was the observation of the characteristic ratio partitioning D4, D5, and D6 in skin layers and receptor fluid (RF). The studies have shown that, in order to thoroughly understand the mechanism, it is important to determine not only the differences in the amounts of cumulated doses in total in all skin layers and receptor fluid, but also the mutual ratios of analyte concentrations existing between matrices. For example, in the case of the stratum corneum, the cumulative doses of D4, D5, and D6 were 27.5, 63.9, and 67.2 µg/cm2/24 h, respectively, and in the epidermis, they were 6.9, 29.9, and 10.7 µg/cm2/24 h, respectively, which confirmed the highest affinity of D6 to stratum corneum as the amount diffused into the epidermis was 2.8 times smaller compared to D5. The calculated epidermis-to-stratum corneum ratios of analyte concentrations also confirm this. The largest ratio was identified for D5 (E/SC = 47), followed by D4 (E/SC = 25), and finally by D6 (E/SC = 16). The analysis of the next stage of diffusion from epidermis to dermis revealed that in dermis the highest cumulative dose was observed for D5 (13.9 µg/cm2/24 h), while the doses of D4 and D6 were similar (5.1 and 5.3 µg/cm2/24 h). Considering the concentration gradient, it can be concluded that the diffusion of D5 and D6 occurs at a similar level, while D4 diffuses at a much higher level. These observations were also confirmed by the dermis-to-epidermis concentration ratios. The final stage of diffusion from dermis to the receptor fluid indicated that D4 was able to permeate easily, while D5 exhibited a difficult diffusion and the diffusion of D6 was limited. The receptor fluid-to-dermis concentration ratios (RF/D) were calculated for D4, D5, and D6: 80, 53, and 17, respectively. Our results also revealed the increased risk of D4 and D5 absorption into the blood and lymphatic systems, whereas D6 demonstrated the lowest risk. Therefore, we can argue that, among the three tested compounds, D6 is the safest one that can be used in dermatological, cosmetic, and personal care products. This study demonstrates that the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis can be also considered reservoirs of cyclic methylsiloxanes. Therefore, these compounds can demonstrate potential long-term bioaccumulation, and can be absorbed to the bloodstream in a long-term and uncontrolled process.

Effect of emulsifiers on drying stress and intercellular cohesion in human stratum corneum

OBJECTIVES

Emulsifier molecules, with their amphiphilic character, are ubiquitous in moisturizing creams and primarily serve to disperse the water-insoluble molecules such as emollients, oils, lipids and fats in water. The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of emulsifier molecules on the barrier and biomechanical properties of human stratum corneum (SC) and to compare the efficacy of emulsifier molecules when used in a fully formulated moisturizing cream.

METHODS

We employed methods based on thin-film mechanics to measure the drying stress and intercellular cohesion in the SC. The emulsifier molecules or moisturizing creams formulated with them were applied to a fully hydrated SC adhered to a glass substrate. In-plane stress developed in the SC during drying was then measured by tracking changes in the curvature of the glass substrate. The intercellular cohesion within the SC was measured by means of a double cantilever beam (DCB) set-up, where the treated or untreated SC was sandwiched between two substrates, and the delamination energy calculated by measuring the force required to drive a crack through the SC. Moisturizing cream diffusivity through the stratum corneum was measured by spectroscopic technique and related to internal SC stress and fracture energy.

RESULTS

We observe significant differences in the biomechanical behaviour of SC when moisturizing creams with different emulsifier molecules are applied on isolated stratum corneum ex vivo. The reduction in maximum stress varied between 12% and 26% depending on the emulsifier molecules used in the formulation. The intercellular cohesion and the diffusion of molecules in the formulated moisturizing creams through the SC were also found to be strongly dependent on the type of emulsifier molecule used in the formulation.

CONCLUSIONS

The biomechanical and barrier properties of the human stratum corneum show strong dependence on the emulsifier molecule used in the moisturizing creams, even when the creams included only ~3 weight% emulsifier molecules. Moreover, we found that the reduction in SC peak stress was strongly correlated with the formulation diffusivity into the SC. The moisturizing creams diffusing fastest into the SC had the largest reduction in peak stress and vice versa.

Molecular Dynamics Simulation of Small Molecules Interacting with Biological Membranes

Cell membranes protect and compartmentalise cells and their organelles. The semi-permeable nature of these membranes controls the exchange of solutes across their structure. Characterising the interaction of small molecules with biological membranes is critical to understanding of physiological processes, drug action and permeation, and many biotechnological applications. This review provides an overview of how molecular simulations are used to study the interaction of small molecules with biological membranes, with a particular focus on the interactions of water, organic compounds, drugs and short peptides with models of plasma cell membrane and stratum corneum lipid bilayers. This review will not delve on other types of membranes which might have different composition and arrangement, such as thylakoid or mitochondrial membranes. The application of unbiased molecular dynamics simulations and enhanced sampling methods such as umbrella sampling, metadynamics and replica exchange are described using key examples. This review demonstrates how state-of-the-art molecular simulations have been used successfully to describe the mechanism of binding and permeation of small molecules with biological membranes, as well as associated changes to the structure and dynamics of these membranes. The review concludes with an outlook on future directions in this field.

Gentiana lutea Extract Modulates Ceramide Synthesis in Primary and Psoriasis-Like Keratinocytes

Gentiana lutea is a bitter herb that is traditionally used to improve gastric disorders. Recently, we have shown that Gentiana lutea extract (GE) also modulates the lipid metabolism of human keratinocytes in vitro and in vivo. In the present study, we investigated the role of GE on ceramide synthesis in human primary keratinocytes (HPKs) and psoriasis-like keratinocytes. We could demonstrate that GE increased the concentrations of glucosylceramides and the ceramide AS/AdS subclass without affecting the overall ceramide content in HPKs. The expression of ceramide synthase 3 (CERS3) and elongases (ELOVL1 and 4) was reduced in psoriasis lesions compared to healthy skin. Psoriasis-like HPKs, generated by stimulating HPKs with cytokines that are involved in the pathogenesis of psoriasis (IL-17, TNF-α, IL-22 and IFN-γ) showed increased levels of IL-6, IL-8 and increased expression of DEFB4A, as well as decreased expression of ELOVL4. The treatment with GE partly rescued the reduced expression of ELOVL4 in psoriasis-like HPKs and augmented CERS3 expression. This study has shown that GE modulates ceramide synthesis in keratinocytes. Therefore, GE might be a novel topical treatment for skin diseases with an altered lipid composition such as psoriasis.

Nanomedicines to Treat Skin Pathologies with Natural Molecules

The skin and mucous membranes are subjected to many disorders and pathological conditions. Nature offers a wide range of molecules with antioxidant activity able to neutralize, at least in part, the formation of free radicals and therefore to counteract the phenomena of cellular aging. Since synthetic drugs for the treatment of skin diseases can induce resistance, it is particularly interesting to use compounds of plant origin, transporting them in pharmaceutical forms capable of controlling their release and absorption. This review provides an overview of new findings about the use of lipid-based nanosystems for the delivery of natural molecules useful on the topical treatment of skin disorders. Several natural molecules encapsulated in lipid nanosystems have been considered in the treatment of some skin pathologies or diseases. Particularly, the use of rosemary and eucalyptus essential oil, saffron derivatives, curcumin, eugenol, capsaicin, thymol and lycopene has been reported. The molecules have been alternatively encapsulated in viscous systems, such as the organogels, or in liquid systems, such as ethosomes, transferosomes, solid lipid nanoparticles and monoolein based dispersions thickened by inclusion in carbomer gels. The nanostructured forms have been in vitro and in vivo investigated for the treatment of skin disorders due to dehydration, inflammation, melanoma, wound healing, fungal infections or psoriasis. The data reported in the different studies have suggested that the cutaneous application of lipid nanosystems allows a deep interaction between lipid matrix and skin strata, promoting a prolonged release and efficacy of the loaded natural molecules. This review suggests that the application of natural molecules onto the skin by lipid-based nanosystems can provide numerous clinician benefits in dermatology and cosmetics.

Behavior of 1-Deoxy-, 3-Deoxy- and N-Methyl-Ceramides in Skin Barrier Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cer) are essential components of the skin permeability barrier. To probe the role of Cer polar head groups involved in the interfacial hydrogen bonding, the N-lignoceroyl sphingosine polar head was modified by removing the hydroxyls in C-1 (1-deoxy-Cer) or C-3 positions (3-deoxy-Cer) and by N-methylation of amide group (N-Me-Cer). Multilamellar skin lipid models were prepared as equimolar mixtures of Cer, lignoceric acid and cholesterol, with 5 wt% cholesteryl sulfate. In the 1-deoxy-Cer-based models, the lipid species were separated into highly ordered domains (as found by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy) resulting in similar water loss but 4–5-fold higher permeability to model substances compared to control with natural Cer. In contrast, 3-deoxy-Cer did not change lipid chain order but promoted the formation of a well-organized structure with a 10.8 nm repeat period. Yet both lipid models comprising deoxy-Cer had similar permeabilities to all markers. N-Methylation of Cer decreased lipid chain order, led to phase separation, and improved cholesterol miscibility in the lipid membranes, resulting in 3-fold increased water loss and 10-fold increased permeability to model compounds compared to control. Thus, the C-1 and C-3 hydroxyls and amide group, which are common to all Cer subclasses, considerably affect lipid miscibility and chain order, formation of periodical nanostructures, and permeability of the skin barrier lipid models.

Systematic Investigation of the Effect of Non-Ionic Emulsifiers on Skin by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy-A Comprehensive Lipid Analysis

Non-ionic emulsifiers are commonly found in existing pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations and have been widely employed to enhance the penetration and permeation of active ingredients into the skin. With the potential of disrupting skin barrier function and increasing fluidity of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, we herein examined the effects of two kinds of non-ionic emulsifiers on intercellular lipids of skin, using confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) with lipid signals on skin CRS spectrum. Non-ionic emulsifiers of polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers and sorbitan fatty acid esters were studied to obtain a deep understanding of the mechanism between non-ionic emulsifiers and SC lipids. Emulsifier solutions and dispersions were prepared and applied onto excised porcine skin. Water and sodium laureth sulfate solution (SLS) served as controls. SC lipid signals were analysed by CRS regarding lipid content, conformation and lateral packing order. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) sorbitan esters revealed no alteration of intercellular lipid properties while PEG-20 ethers appeared to have the most significant effects on reducing lipid content and interrupting lipid organization. In general, the polyoxyethylene chain and alkyl chain of PEG derivative emulsifiers might indicate their ability of interaction with SC components. HLB values remained critical for complete explanation of emulsifier effects on skin lipids. With this study, it is possible to characterize the molecular effects of non-ionic emulsifiers on skin lipids and further deepen the understanding of enhancing substance penetration with reduced skin barrier properties and increased lipid fluidity.

Effects of mevalonate kinase interference on cell differentiation, apoptosis, prenylation and geranylgeranylation of human keratinocytes are attenuated by farnesyl pyrophosphate or geranylgeranyl pyrophosphate

Mevalonate kinase (MVK) mutations were previously identified in disseminated superficial actinic porokeratosis. However, the role of MVK in differentiation, apoptosis and prenylation of keratinocytes requires further investigation. Farnesyl pyrophosphate (FPP) and geranylgeranyl pyrophosphate (GGPP) of the mevalonate pathway attach to small G proteins, and serve as molecular switches in biochemical pathways. Therefore, the aim of the present study was to investigate the role of MVK in the expression of keratin 1 and involucrin, apoptosis, protein prenylation and the processing of small G proteins. HaCat human keratinocytes were transfected with viruses carrying MVK interference and overexpression vectors, respectively. The mRNA expression of MVK, keratin 1 and involucrin was detected by reverse transcription-quantitative PCR. Protein expression of MVK, keratin 1, involucrin, lamin A, HRAS, KRAS, NRAS, Rho E, Rho B, Rho A, RAC1 and cdc42 in HaCat cells was detected by western blotting. The apoptotic rates of HaCat cells and protein prenylation levels were examined by flow cytometry. The expression of MVK in HaCat cells was significantly decreased in the interference groups, and markedly increased in the overexpression group compared with the negative control groups. The mRNA and protein expression levels of keratin 1 and involucrin were significantly decreased following interference of MVK expression, and the decrease was markedly attenuated by FPP. Furthermore, the apoptotic rate was markedly increased following MVK interference, and the increase was significantly attenuated by GGPP. The overexpression of MVK significantly decreased the apoptotic rate of HaCat cells. The prenylation levels after MVK interference was notably decreased, which was markedly attenuated by GGPP. The overexpression of MVK significantly increased the prenylation levels of HaCat cells. FPP or GGPP reversed MVK interference-induced decrease in geranylgeranylation levels of lamin A, HRAS, KRAS, NRAS, Rho E, Rho B, Rho A, RAC1 and cdc42. In conclusion, MVK interference decreases the expression of differentiation markers, increases apoptosis, and decreases protein prenylation and geranylgeranylation levels in keratinocytes. These changes are attenuated by FPP or GGPP.

Development of an in vitro submerged culture system to synthesize epidermal ceramides in canine keratinocytes

Ceramides (CERs) in the stratum corneum (SC) are known to play a crucial role in determining skin barrier function in dogs. We aimed to develop an in vitro culture system that synthesized epidermal CER classes to better understand the synthesis of CER classes in canine SC-. Canine keratinocyte cells (MSCEK) at appropriate confluency were incubated with high Ca²⁺ (1.8 mM CaCl₂) supplemented serum-free medium. Eight days post Ca²⁺ application, the surface of cultured MSCEK was broadly stained with anti-loricrin antibody implying that the keratinocytes had stratified into stratum granulosum. MSCEK cells synthesized heterogenous epidermal CERs, similar to those seen during the stratification of canine keratinocytes. CER fractions obtained from MSCEK cells were comparable to those from canine SC, including CER[EOS] (combination of ω-hydroxy fatty acids and sphingosines), CER[NP] (combination of non-hydroxy fatty acids and phytosphingosines), and CER[EOP] (combination of ω-hydroxy fatty acids and phytosphingosines), all of which are lowered in the SC during canine atopic dermatitis. Thus, the present study provides a simple culture system as a tool for in-depth analysis of CER production in canine keratinocytes.

Lipidomic Analysis Reveals Specific Differences between Fibroblast and Keratinocyte Ceramide Profile of Patients with Psoriasis Vulgaris

Ceramides are important lipid metabolites for primal skin functions. There is increasing evidence that alteration of the profile and metabolism of ceramides is associated with skin diseases, such as psoriasis vulgaris. Most studies have reported alteration in ceramide content in the stratum corneum, but these have been scarcely reported for other skin layers. In the present work, we aimed to explore changes in the ceramide profile of fibroblasts and keratinocytes in patients with psoriasis vulgaris and healthy subjects. Using the reversed-phase liquid chromatography-quadrupole-time-of-flight-tandem-mass spectrometry (RPLC-QTOF-MS/MS) platform, we identified ceramide containing non-hydroxy fatty acid ([N]), α-hydroxy fatty acid ([A]), and esterified ω-hydroxy fatty acid ([EO]) and 3 sphingoid bases, dihydrosphingosine ([DS]), sphingosine ([S]), and phytosphingosine ([P]). We found that in the keratinocytes of patients with psoriasis, CER[NS], CER[NP], CER[AS], CER[ADS], CER[AP] and CER[EOS] tended to be expressed at higher relative levels, whereas CER[NDS] tended to be expressed with lower levels than in healthy subjects. In the case of fibroblasts, significant differences were observed, mainly in the three ceramide classes (CER[AS], CER[ADS] and CER[EOS]), which were expressed at significantly higher levels in patients with psoriasis. The most significant alteration in the fibroblasts involved elevated levels of CER[EOS] that contained ester-linked fatty acids. Our findings provide insights into the ceramide profile in the dermis and epidermis of patients with psoriasis and contribute for the research in this field, focusing on the role of keratinocyte-fibroblast crosstalk in the development of psoriasis vulgaris.

Permeation enhancers in transdermal drug delivery: benefits and limitations

Introduction: Transdermal drug delivery has several clinical benefits over conventional routes of drug administration. To open the transdermal route for a wider range of drugs, including macromolecules, numerous physical and chemical techniques to overcome the natural low skin permeability have been developed.Areas covered: This review focuses on permeation enhancers (penetration enhancers, percutaneous absorption promoters or accelerants), which are chemicals that increase drug flux through the skin barrier. First, skin components, drug permeation pathways, and drug properties are introduced. Next, we discuss properties of enhancers, their various classifications, structure-activity relationships, mechanisms of action, reversibility and toxicity, biodegradable enhancers, and synergistic enhancer combinations.Expert opinion: Overcoming the remarkable skin barrier properties in an efficient, temporary and safe manner remains a challenge. High permeation-enhancing potency has long been perceived to be associated with toxicity and irritation potential of such compounds, which has limited their further development. In addition, the complexity of enhancer interactions with skin, formulation and drug, along with their vast chemical diversity hampered understanding of their mechanisms of action. The recent development in the field revealed highly potent yet safe enhancers or enhancer combinations, which suggest that enhancer-aided transdermal drug delivery has yet to reach its full potential.

New Spisulosine Derivative promotes robust autophagic response to cancer cells

Therapy resistance by evasion of apoptosis is one of the hallmarks of human cancer. Therefore, restoration of cell death by non-apoptotic mechanisms is critical to successfully overcome therapy resistance in cancer. By rational drug design approach, here we try to provide evidence that subtle changes in the chemical structure of spisulosine completely switched its cytotoxic function from apoptosis to autophagy. Our most potent molecule (26b) in a series of 16 synthesized derivatives showed robust autophagic cell death in diverse cancer cells sparing normal counterpart. Compound 26b mediated lethal autophagy induction was confirmed by formation of characteristic autophagic vacuoles, LC3 puncta formation, upregulation of signature autophagy markers like Beclin and Atg family proteins. Altogether, we have detected novel autophagy inducer small molecule which can be tested further for drug discovery research.

Imaging and quantifying drug delivery in skin - Part 2: Fluorescence andvibrational spectroscopic imaging methods

Understanding the delivery and diffusion of topically-applied drugs on human skin is of paramount importance in both pharmaceutical and cosmetics research. This information is critical in early stages of drug development and allows the identification of the most promising ingredients delivered at optimal concentrations to their target skin compartments. Different skin imaging methods, invasive and non-invasive, are available to characterize and quantify the spatiotemporal distribution of a drug within ex vivo and in vivo human skin. The first part of this review detailed invasive imaging methods (autoradiography, MALDI and SIMS). This second part reviews non-invasive imaging methods that can be applied in vivo: i) fluorescence (conventional, confocal, and multiphoton) and second harmonic generation microscopies and ii) vibrational spectroscopic imaging methods (infrared, confocal Raman, and coherent Raman scattering microscopies). Finally, a flow chart for the selection of imaging methods is presented to guide human skin ex vivo and in vivo drug delivery studies.

Current Strategies and Future Perspectives of Skin-on-a-Chip Platforms: Innovations, Technical Challenges and Commercial Outlook

The skin is the largest and most exposed organ in the human body. Not only it is involved in numerous biological processes essential for life but also it represents a significant endpoint for the application of pharmaceuticals. The area of in vitro skin tissue engineering has been progressing extensively in recent years. Advanced in vitro human skin models strongly impact the discovery of new drugs thanks to the enhanced screening efficiency and reliability. Nowadays, animal models are largely employed at the preclinical stage of new pharmaceutical compounds development for both risk assessment evaluation and pharmacokinetic studies. On the other hand, animal models often insufficiently foresee the human reaction due to the variations in skin immunity and physiology. Skin-on-chips devices offer innovative and state-of-the-art platforms essential to overcome these limitations. In the present review, we focus on the contribution of skin-on-chip platforms in fundamental research and applied medical research. In addition, we also highlighted the technical and practical difficulties that must be overcome to enhance skin-on-chip platforms, e.g. embedding electrical measurements, for improved modeling of human diseases as well as of new drug discovery and development.

Non-invasive Production of Multi-Compartmental Biodegradable Polymer Microneedles for Controlled Intradermal Drug Release of Labile Molecules

Transdermal drug delivery represents an appealing alternative to conventional drug administration systems. In fact, due to their high patient compliance, the development of dissolvable and biodegradable polymer microneedles has recently attracted great attention. Although stamp-based procedures guarantee high tip resolution and reproducibility, they have long processing times, low levels of system engineering, are a source of possible contaminants, and thermo-sensitive drugs cannot be used in conjunction with them. In this work, a novel stamp-based microneedle fabrication method is proposed. It provides a rapid room-temperature production of multi-compartmental biodegradable polymeric microneedles for controlled intradermal drug release. Solvent casting was carried out for only a few minutes and produced a short dissolvable tip made of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP). The rest of the stamp was then filled with degradable poly(lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA) microparticles (μPs) quickly compacted with a vapor-assisted plasticization. The outcome was an array of microneedles with tunable release. The ability of the resulting microneedles to indent was assessed using pig cadaver skin. Controlled intradermal delivery was demonstrated by loading both the tip and the body of the microneedles with model therapeutics; POXA1b laccase from Pleurotus ostreatus is a commercial enzyme used for the whitening of skin spots. The action and indentation of the enzyme-loaded microneedle action were assessed in an in vitro skin model and this highlighted their ability to control the kinetic release of the encapsulated compound.

Facile and eco-friendly fabrication of polysaccharides-based nanocomposite hydrogel for photothermal treatment of wound infection

Nowadays, photothermal killing of pathogenic bacteria and treatment of wound infection have attracted great attention owing to effectively avoiding the drawbacks of traditional antibiotics. In this work, an agarose (AG)-based hydrogel containing tannic acid-Fe(III) (TA-Fe) nanoparticles was fabricated by a facile and eco-friendly strategy. The optimal nanocomposite hydrogel showed the good mechanical property and superior processability. More importantly, the nanocomposite hydrogel revealed outstanding photothermal effect, which exhibited a sharp temperature increase of 58 °C during NIR exposure for 10 min. With in vitro antibacterial experiment, the hydrogel could effectively kill of nearly 99 % of bacteria with 10 min of NIR irradiation. Additionally, for the in vivo experiment, the nanocomposite hydrogel could effectively cure wound infection and promote wound healing. Moreover, the hydrogel possessed high biocompatibility. Based on the good mechanical property, outstanding photothermal effect and high biocompatibility, the nanocomposite hydrogel could become a promising antibacterial wound dressings for biomedical applications.

Gallic acid loaded poloxamer gel as new adjuvant strategy for melanoma: A preliminary study

The present study describes the production and characterization of poloxamer gels containing the antioxidant molecule gallic acid. The gels were particularly designed in order to obtain a formulation suitable for administration on the skin to treat melanoma. The polymer concentration was selected after rheological characterization and determination of gel transition temperature. In order to study the gallic acid diffusion, in vitro experiments were performed using Franz cells associated to different membranes. As first approach the gallic acid diffusion was evaluated through synthetic membranes, such as cellulose, nylon, polycarbonate, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyvinylidene fluoride and the commercial Strat-M® membrane. The membranes were employed separately or in association and compared to stratum corneum epidermis membranes, in order to find a system able to reproduce the gallic acid diffusion through the skin. Selected membranes were used for studying gallic acid diffusion from poloxamer gel. It was found that the diffusion of gallic acid was dramatically influenced by the type of membrane, both in the case of the aqueous solution or poloxamer gel. Scratch wound healing and migration assays conducted on human keratinocytes and melanoma cells demonstrated the ability of gallic acid loaded gel to inhibit cellular migration, suggesting its potential as adjuvant strategy for melanoma.

Mimicking cigarette smoke exposure to assess cutaneous toxicity

Cigarette smoke stands among the most toxic environmental pollutants and is composed of thousands of chemicals including polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). Despite restrict cigarette smoking ban in indoor or some outdoor locations, the risk of non-smokers to be exposed to environmental cigarette smoke is not yet eliminated. Beside the well-known effects of cigarette smoke to the respiratory and cardiovascular systems, a growing literature has shown during the last 3 decades its noxious effects also on cutaneous tissues. Being the largest organ as well as the interface between the outer environment and the body, human skin acts as a natural shield which is continuously exposed to harmful exogenous agents. Thus, a prolonged and/or repetitive exposure to significant levels of toxic smoke pollutants may have detrimental effects on the cutaneous tissue by disrupting the epidermal barrier function and by exacerbating inflammatory skin disorders (i.e. psoriasis, atopic dermatitis). With the development of very complex skin tissue models and sophisticated cigarette smoke exposure systems it has become important to better understand the toxicity pathways induced by smoke pollutants in more realistic laboratory conditions to find solutions for counteracting their effects. This review provides an update on the skin models currently available to study cigarette smoke exposure and the known pathways involved in cutaneous toxicity. In addition, the article will briefly cover the inflammatory skin pathologies potentially induced and/or exacerbated by cigarette smoke exposure.

In vivo Tracking of DNA for Precise Determination of the Stratum Corneum Thickness and Superficial Microbiome Using Confocal Raman Microscopy

The skin barrier function is mostly provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost layer of the epidermis. To noninvasively analyze the physiological properties of the skin barrier functionin vivo, it is important to determine the SC thickness. Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) is widely used for this task. In the present in vivo study, a new method based on the determination of the DNA concentration profile using CRM is introduced for determining the SC thickness. The obtained SC thickness values are compared with those obtained using other CRM-based methods determining the water and lipid depth profiles. The obtained results show almost no significant differences in SC thickness for the utilized methods. Therefore, the results indicate that it is possible to calculate the SC thickness by using the DNA profile in the fingerprint region, which is comparable with the SC thickness calculated by the water depth profiles (ANOVA test p = 0.77) and the lipid depth profile (ANOVA test p = 0.74). This provides the possibility to measure the SC thickness by using the DNA profile, in case the water or lipid profile analyses are influenced by a topically applied formulation. The increase in DNA concentration in the superficial SC (0-2 µm) is related to the DNA presence in the microbiome of the skin, which was not present in the SC depth below 4 µm.

Identification and validation of amino acid-based mild exfoliating agents through a de novo screening method

BACKGROUND

Due to internal or external factors, the desquamation (turnover) rate of the stratum corneum slows down, resulting in skin problems. Therefore, adjusting the exfoliation rate through cosmetics is an important issue.

OBJECTIVE

This report aimed to develop exfoliating agents with lesser adverse effects and higher efficiency through an ex vivo screening method and in vivo turnover rate analysis of human skin.

METHODS

Various molecules were evaluated by the ex vivo porcine skin exfoliation method and screened for their potential as effective agents. To confirm the effect and mechanism of each agent found, the exfoliation efficiency was evaluated. Each agent was also applied to the actual human skin to determine its efficacy and side effects.

RESULTS

Despite the pH 6, carnitine and serine, which have similar or better efficiency compared to PHA, were selected. Based on the results, it was confirmed that calcium. And it is nonirritating to the human skin and increases the turnover rate (~130%).

CONCLUSION

Amino acid-based exfoliating agents, such as carnitine and serine, were identified and verified to enhance the rate of exfoliation of the stratum corneum. It is expected that the improvement of dullness, mild acne, fine wrinkles, and pores through skin exfoliation in the field of cosmetics can be achieved safely through these agents.

Toward Milder Personal Care Cleansing Products: Fast ex vivo Screening of Irritating Effects of Surfactants on Skin Using Raman Microscopy

We report a novel Raman technique that allows fast and reliable ex vivo assessment of the irritability of personal care cleansing products to the skin in terms of the molecular-level effects such as retention of water by corneocytes, change in the packing order and content of intercellular lipids, and the structure of keratin. We test this technique for the single surfactants (dodecyl glucoside, sodium dodecyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, lauramidopropyl betaine) that are typically used in personal care, as well as on three types of commercial soap bars (“superfat”, “syndet”, and “combar”). We find that soaking of the skin for prolonged time in pure water can cause unfolding of keratin, which is commonly considered as a signature of “harshness” when dealing with the surfactant formulations. Moreover, molecular-level signatures of irritability of the test surfactants and soaps at brief (10 min) exposure times do not follow the trend expected from their critical micelle concentrations (CMC) and collagen swelling. In particular, dodecyl glucoside has positive impact on the barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) and apparent detergency properties (solubilizes lipids without affecting their packing order). We also find that two qualitatively different soap bars (“superfat” and “syndet”) are similarly mild under the conditions studied, while the “combar” soap has detergency properties. These results demonstrate that to improve methodology of predicting irritability of a surfactant-based formulation, we need to study more systematically the molecular-level responses of the SC to exposure.

Modulation of the Lipid Profile of Reconstructed Skin Substitutes after Essential Fatty Acid Supplementation Affects Testosterone Permeability

Skin models with efficient skin barrier function are required for percutaneous absorption studies. The contribution of media supplementation with n-3 and n-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) to the development of the skin barrier function of in vitro skin models remains incompletely understood. To investigate whether PUFAs, alpha-linolenic acid (ALA, n-3 PUFA) and linoleic acid (LA, n-6 PUFA), could enhance the impermeability of a three-dimensional reconstructed human skin model, skin substitutes were produced according to the self-assembly method using culture media supplemented with either 10 μM ALA or 10 μM LA. The impact of PUFAs on skin permeability was studied by using a Franz cell diffusion system to assess the percutaneous absorption of testosterone and benzoic acid. Our findings showed that ALA supplementation induced a decrease in the absorption of testosterone, while LA supplementation did not significantly influence the penetration of testosterone and benzoic acid under present experimental conditions. Both ALA and LA were incorporated into phospholipids of the skin substitutes, resulting in an increase in n-3 total PUFAs or n-6 total PUFAs. Collectively, these results revealed the under-estimated impact of n-3 PUFA supplementation as well as the importance of the n-6 to n-3 ratio on the formation of the skin barrier of in vitro reconstructed human skin models.

Computer-Aided Design of Nanoparticles for Transdermal Drug Delivery

Human skin provides an excellent opportunity for drug delivery application. However, the delivery of hydrophilic drug and big protein molecules is challenging due to barrier provided by the top layer of skin known as stratum corneum (SC). The chemical permeation enhancers or specialized carriers such as nanoparticles (NPs) are needed which can deliver drug molecules into the deeper layer.Here, we describe the in silico design of nanoparticle carriers using molecular dynamics (MD) simulations for the transdermal drug delivery application. At first, setup of a skin lipid bilayer model is demonstrated. Further, nanoparticles are designed based on the Monte Carlo simulation technique. These nanoparticles are then tested on skin model using various MD simulation techniques.