In vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy of the skin: noninvasive determination of molecular concentration profiles

Characterization and validation of an in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy led tri-method approach in the evaluation of the lip barrier

Background/Aim

It was the aim to establish and validate in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy for characterization of the lip barrier in conjunction with transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin capacitance assessments. For the first time in vivo, barrier‐relevant components of the lip (derived, natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) and ceramides are described.

Methods

In 32 healthy volunteers, a dental tongue fixation device was inserted to prevent both voluntary and involuntary lip moisturization during measurements. Seventeen individual parameters relating to water, ceramide, and NMF content were assessed via Raman spectroscopy. Additionally, corneometry and TEWL were measured. To give a guidance for the required volunteer group size of future lip barrier studies for all test parameters, coefficients of variation (CV) were calculated and plots showing the required sample size for a given percentage treatment effect.

Results

Raman spectroscopy assessed parameters on the lower lip comprehensively characterized the state of the lip barrier. Parameter variability was sufficiently low to corroborate changes in most parameters using relatively small study populations.

Conclusions

Lip skin is comparatively well hydrated. Biophysical measurement of the lip barrier function is a challenge, as unconscious licking of the lower lip has to be prevented. In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy provides insightful parameters for the characterization of the lip barrier and sufficiently low inter‐individual variability to assess relatively small parameter changes employing relatively few study subjects. Differences at the molecular level and at a high spatial resolution are detectable, and these insights might provide a breakthrough in the evaluation of lip barrier function and developing solutions for lip care.

Depth-sensitive Raman spectroscopy for skin wound evaluation in rodents

Raman spectroscopy has demonstrated great potential for skin wound assessment. Given that biochemical changes in wound healing is depth dependent as the skin is a layered structure, depth sensitive Raman spectroscopy could enhance the power of Raman spectroscopy in this application. Considering the critical importance of rodent studies in the field of skin wound assessment, it is necessary to develop and validate a system that can perform depth sensitive measurements in rat skin with a proper target depth range. In this manuscript, we report the design, optimization and evaluation of a new snapshot depth-sensitive Raman instrument for rat skin measurements. The optical design and optimization process are presented first. The depth sensitive measurement performance is characterized on both ex vivo porcine skin with a gradient of layer thickness and ex vivo rat skin samples with wounds. The statistical analysis of the measured Raman spectra demonstrates the feasibility of differentiation between the wound edge and healthy skin. Moreover, the accuracy of classification improves monotonically as more data from new depths are used, which implies that each depth offers additional information useful for classification. This instrument demonstrates the ability to perform snapshot depth sensitive Raman measurements from rat skin, which paves the way towards in vivo preclinical studies of rat skin wounds.

In vivo Tracking of DNA for Precise Determination of the Stratum Corneum Thickness and Superficial Microbiome Using Confocal Raman Microscopy

The skin barrier function is mostly provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost layer of the epidermis. To noninvasively analyze the physiological properties of the skin barrier functionin vivo, it is important to determine the SC thickness. Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) is widely used for this task. In the present in vivo study, a new method based on the determination of the DNA concentration profile using CRM is introduced for determining the SC thickness. The obtained SC thickness values are compared with those obtained using other CRM-based methods determining the water and lipid depth profiles. The obtained results show almost no significant differences in SC thickness for the utilized methods. Therefore, the results indicate that it is possible to calculate the SC thickness by using the DNA profile in the fingerprint region, which is comparable with the SC thickness calculated by the water depth profiles (ANOVA test p = 0.77) and the lipid depth profile (ANOVA test p = 0.74). This provides the possibility to measure the SC thickness by using the DNA profile, in case the water or lipid profile analyses are influenced by a topically applied formulation. The increase in DNA concentration in the superficial SC (0-2 µm) is related to the DNA presence in the microbiome of the skin, which was not present in the SC depth below 4 µm.

The role of filaggrin in atopic dermatitis and allergic disease

OBJECTIVE

To provide an overview of filaggrin biology and the role of filaggrin variants in atopic dermatitis (AD) and allergic disease.

DATA SOURCES

We performed a PubMed literature review consisting mainly of studies relating to filaggrin in the last 5 years.

STUDY SELECTIONS

We selected articles that were found in PubMed using the search terms filaggrin, atopic dermatitis, skin barrier, and atopy.

RESULTS

Filaggrin plays an important role in the development of AD and allergic disease. Novel methods in measuring filaggrin expression and identifying filaggrin mutations aid in stratifying this patient cohort. We review new insights into understanding the role of filaggrin in AD and allergic disease.

CONCLUSION

Filaggrin remains a very important player in the pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis and allergic disease. This review looks at recent studies that aid our understanding of this crucial epidermal protein.

Toward Milder Personal Care Cleansing Products: Fast ex vivo Screening of Irritating Effects of Surfactants on Skin Using Raman Microscopy

We report a novel Raman technique that allows fast and reliable ex vivo assessment of the irritability of personal care cleansing products to the skin in terms of the molecular-level effects such as retention of water by corneocytes, change in the packing order and content of intercellular lipids, and the structure of keratin. We test this technique for the single surfactants (dodecyl glucoside, sodium dodecyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, lauramidopropyl betaine) that are typically used in personal care, as well as on three types of commercial soap bars (“superfat”, “syndet”, and “combar”). We find that soaking of the skin for prolonged time in pure water can cause unfolding of keratin, which is commonly considered as a signature of “harshness” when dealing with the surfactant formulations. Moreover, molecular-level signatures of irritability of the test surfactants and soaps at brief (10 min) exposure times do not follow the trend expected from their critical micelle concentrations (CMC) and collagen swelling. In particular, dodecyl glucoside has positive impact on the barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) and apparent detergency properties (solubilizes lipids without affecting their packing order). We also find that two qualitatively different soap bars (“superfat” and “syndet”) are similarly mild under the conditions studied, while the “combar” soap has detergency properties. These results demonstrate that to improve methodology of predicting irritability of a surfactant-based formulation, we need to study more systematically the molecular-level responses of the SC to exposure.

In Vivo Skin Characterizations by Using Opto-Thermal Depth-Resolved Detection Spectra

OTTER (opto-thermal transient emission radiometry) is an infrared remote sensing technology that has been extensively used in skin measurements. It is non-contact, non-invasive, and has a unique depth profiling capability. By selecting different detection wavelengths, OTTER can be used for different types of skin measurements, such as skin hydration measurements and skin topically applied substance measurements, etc. By plotting the results at different detection wavelengths, we can have an opto-thermal detection spectrum. Combining with OTTER’s unique depth profiling capability, we can get a depth-resolved opto-thermal detection spectrum. This is a powerful tool that can be used for many skin studies. Here we will present our latest study with details on the apparatus setup, theoretical background, as well as experimental results.

Topical application of highly concentrated water-in-oil emulsions: Physiological skin parameters and skin penetration in vivo - A pilot study

Important aspects in the development of new dermal drug delivery systems are the formulations' physicochemical properties and stability. Moreover, their influence on skin physiology and their penetration performance in vivo are of crucial interest. We have recently developed novel concentrated water-in-oil emulsions based on a non-ionic silicone surfactant; the present study deals with the effect of these formulations on physiological skin parameters of healthy volunteers after repeated application. Variations in skin condition and barrier integrity were investigated using classical biophysical and spectroscopic techniques. After four weeks of continuous treatment, no signs of skin irritation could be observed. Both tested emulsions had a positive effect on skin properties despite their relatively high water content and low lipid content. In vivo tape stripping studies revealed penetrated amounts of the incorporated model drug fluorescein sodium of almost 50% of the applied dose, with a superior performance of emulsions with isopropyl myristate when compared to liquid paraffin. In summary, our study confirmed the suitability of the developed W/O emulsions for pharmaceutic and cosmetic applications.

The non-homogenous distribution and aggregation of carotenoids in the stratum corneum correlates with the organization of intercellular lipids in vivo

The human stratum corneum (SC) contains an abundant amount of carotenoid antioxidants, quenching free radicals and thereby protecting the skin. For the precise measurements of the depth-dependent carotenoid concentration, confocal Raman microscopy is a suitable method. The quantitative concentration can be determined by the carotenoid-related peak intensity of a Gaussian function approached at ≈1524 cm^-1 using non-linear regression. Results show that the carotenoid concentration is higher at the superficial layers of the SC then decreases to a minimum at 20% SC depth and increases again towards the bottom of the SC. In the present work, two carotenoid penetration pathways into the SC are postulated. The first pathway is from the stratum granulosum to the bottom of the SC, while in the second pathway, the carotenoids are delivered to the skin surface by sweat and/or sebum secretion and penetrate from outside. The carotenoids are aggregated at the superficial layers, which are shown by high correlation between the aggregation states of carotenoids and the lateral organization of lipids. At the 30%-40% SC depths, the ordered and dense lipid molecules intensify the lipid-carotenoid interactions and weaken the carotenoid-carotenoid interaction and thus exhibit the disaggregation of carotenoids. At 90%-100% SC depths, the carotenoid-lipid interaction is weakened and the carotenoids have a tendency to be aggregated. Thus, the molecular structural correlation of carotenoid and SC lipid might be reserved in the intercellular space of the SC and also serves as the skeleton of the intercellular lipids.

Methods to Evaluate Skin Penetration In Vitro

Dermal and transdermal drug therapy is increasing in importance nowadays in drug development. To completely utilize the potential of this administration route, it is necessary to optimize the drug release and skin penetration measurements. This review covers the most well-known and up-to-date methods for evaluating the cutaneous penetration of drugs in vitro as a supporting tool for pharmaceutical research scientists in the early stage of drug development. The aim of this article is to present various experimental models used in dermal/transdermal research and summarize the novel knowledge about the main in vitro methods available to study skin penetration. These techniques are: Diffusion cell, skin-PAMPA, tape stripping, two-photon microscopy, confocal laser scanning microscopy, and confocal Raman microscopic method.

Cleansing-induced changes in skin measured by in vivo confocal raman spectroscopy

BACKGROUND

One of the most important steps people can take in reducing the spread of bacteria and viruses is washing the hands with soap and water. Frequent washing, required in certain occupations, can lead to skin dryness, chapping, and itching.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy was used to study short-term effects of hand washing on product deposition, lipid acyl chain structural disordering, and extraction of important skin components such as natural moisturizing factors, cholesterol, ceramides, amino acids, and changes in skin hydration. Effects of use of either soap, synthetic detergent, or triethanolamine (TEA)-soap/ glycerin were compared at two water temperatures.

RESULTS

Soap use resulted in significant deposition at all depths to 20 μm at 25°C and at the surface and 2 μm at 37°C. Significant decreases were observed in relative amounts of all skin components studied. NMF levels were not changed. Skin dehydration was observed for use of soap at 37°C.

CONCLUSIONS

Short-term effects of frequent hand washing can be monitored with in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy. Effects of frequent washing may be reduced with lower wash temperature and products. Skin dehydration is not associated with lipid chain disordering.

In vivo Change of Keratin-Bound Molecules in the Human Stratum Corneum following Exposure to Ultraviolet Radiation

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation damages the stratum corneum (SC) and disrupts the skin barrier. The damaged skin changes in the molecular composition of the SC, including its water content. However, it is difficult to examine the in vivo SC changes with existing methods, so those have not been well characterized. Therefore, we investigated in vivo changes of UV-induced SC damage using confocal Raman spectroscopy.

METHOD

We irradiated the volar forearm of 10 subjects with 0.5, 1, and 1.5 minimal erythemal doses of UV radiation. Then, we examined erythema, the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the water content, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and the lipids of the skin.

RESULTS

After UV irradiation, erythema and TEWL of the skin were both increased. The bound water content of the SC was also increased following UV irradiation. The NMF of the SC revealed different tendencies. All free amino acids (FAAs) of the NMF were increased after UV irradiation, except proline. trans-urocanic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactate, and urea, which are NMF components produced by the subsequent catabolism of FAAs and sweat, were decreased after UV irradiation. The amount of ceramide in the SC was also decreased after UV exposure, while cholesterol was increased.

CONCLUSIONS

The bound water content of the SC was increased by UV exposure along with increasing TEWL, several NMF components, and cholesterol. These in vivo results for UV-damaged SC obtained via Raman spectroscopy could be applied to research with regard to protecting the SC from UV radiation and treating UV-damaged SC.

Identifying Initiation and Aging of Hens During the Laying Period by Raman Analysis of Beaks

Raman spectroscopy has been widely applied in the analysis of biological tissues. In this study, beak cuticle was studied to investigate its compositional and secondary structural changes during the laying period and aging of laying hens. The analysis revealed markedly increased contents of amide I and amino acids (phenylalanine and tyrosine) within the beak during the intense laying period from 17 to 20 weeks. In addition, α-helical protein was also gradually synthesized in this period. The relative area ratio of 1003/1448 cm-1 (assigned to the vibrations of phenylalanine and organic C-H respectively) was confirmed as an excellent indicator for estimating the start of the laying period. This ratio increased from 0.36 to 0.42 from 17 to 20 weeks. The Raman peak at 1156 cm-1 was assigned to carotenoids in the beak. The intensities of the 1156 cm-1 peak significantly decreased during aging. The area ratio of 1156/1448 cm-1 was successfully applied to estimate ages (still within the laying period) of laying hens. This study shows the potential of using Raman spectroscopy to quantify ages and laying period of birds.

In vivo quantitative molecular absorption of glycerol in human skin using coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS) and two-photon auto-fluorescence

The penetration of small molecules through the human skin is a major issue for both safety and efficacy issues in cosmetics and pharmaceutic domains. To date, the quantification of active molecular compounds in human skin following a topical application uses ex vivo skin samples mounted on Franz cell diffusion set-up together with appropriate analytical methods. Coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS) has also been used to perform active molecule quantification on ex vivo skin samples, but no quantification has been described in human skin in vivo. Here we introduce and validate a framework for imaging and quantifying the active molecule penetration into human skin in vivo. Our approach combines nonlinear imaging microscopy modalities, such as two-photon excited auto-fluorescence (TPEF) and coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS), together with the use of deuterated active molecules. The imaging framework was exemplified on topically applied glycerol diluted in various vehicles such as water and xanthan gel. In vivo glycerol quantitative percutaneous penetration over time was demonstrated, showing that, contrary to water, the xanthan gel vehicle acts as a film reservoir that releases glycerol continuously over time. More generally, the proposed imaging framework provides an enabling platform for establishing functional activity of topically applied products in vivo.

Raman Techniques: Fundamentals and Frontiers

Driven by applications in chemical sensing, biological imaging and material characterisation, Raman spectroscopies are attracting growing interest from a variety of scientific disciplines. The Raman effect originates from the inelastic scattering of light, and it can directly probe vibration/rotational-vibration states in molecules and materials. Despite numerous advantages over infrared spectroscopy, spontaneous Raman scattering is very weak, and consequently, a variety of enhanced Raman spectroscopic techniques have emerged. These techniques include stimulated Raman scattering and coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering, as well as surface- and tip-enhanced Raman scattering spectroscopies. The present review provides the reader with an understanding of the fundamental physics that govern the Raman effect and its advantages, limitations and applications. The review also highlights the key experimental considerations for implementing the main experimental Raman spectroscopic techniques. The relevant data analysis methods and some of the most recent advances related to the Raman effect are finally presented. This review constitutes a practical introduction to the science of Raman spectroscopy; it also highlights recent and promising directions of future research developments.

Noninvasive analysis and minimally invasive in vivo experimental challenges of the skin barrier

In this review, we aim to give a concise and selective overview of noninvasive biophysical analysis techniques for skin barrier analysis (transepidermal water loss, electrical methods, confocal Raman microspectroscopy, sebumeter, reflectance spectrophotometry, tristimulus colorimetry, diffuse reflectance spectroscopy and reflectance confocal microscopy), including advantages and limitations. Rather than giving an exhaustive description of the many techniques currently available, we show the usefulness of a representative selection of techniques in the functional and morphological evaluation of the skin barrier. Furthermore, we introduce human minimally invasive skin challenging models as a means to study the mechanisms regulating skin homoeostasis and disease and subsequently show how biophysical analysis techniques can be combined with these in vivo skin challenging models in the functional and morphological evaluation of the skin barrier in healthy human skin. We are convinced that the widespread application of biophysical analysis techniques in dermatological practice and in cosmetic sciences will prove invaluable in offering personalized and noninvasive skin treatment solutions. Furthermore, combining the human in vivo challenging models with these novel noninvasive techniques will provide valuable methodology and tools for detailed characterization of the skin barrier in health and disease.

Non-invasive depth profiling of the stratum corneum in vivo using confocal Raman microscopy considering the non-homogeneous distribution of keratin

Confocal Raman microscopy has a number of advantages in investigating the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo and ex vivo. The penetration profiles of xenobiotics in the SC, as well as depth profiles of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as the concentration of water depending on the strength of hydrogen bonds, total water concentration, the hydrogen bonding state of water molecules, concentration of intercellular lipids, the lamellar and lateral packing order of intercellular lipids, the concentration of natural moisturizing factor molecules, carotenoids, and the secondary and tertiary structure properties of keratin are well investigated. To consider the depth-dependent Raman signal attenuation, in most cases a normalization procedure is needed, which uses the main SC's protein keratin-related Raman peaks, based on the assumption that keratin is homogeneously distributed in the SC. We found that this assumption is not accurate for the bottom part of the SC, where the water concentration is considerably increased, thus, reducing the presence of keratin. Our results demonstrate that the bottom part of the SC depth profile should be multiplied by 0.94 in average in order to match this non-homogeneity, which result in a decrease of the uncorrected values in these depths. The correctly normalized depth profiles of the concentration of lipids, water, natural moisturizing factor and carotenoids are presented in this work. The obtained results should be taken into consideration in future skin research using confocal Raman microscopy.

Simultaneous Measurements of Structure and Water Permeability in an Isolated Human Skin Stratum Corneum Sheet

Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of human skin, acts as an intelligent physicochemical interface between the inside and the outside of our body. To make clear the relationship between structure and physical barrier properties of SC, we developed a method that enables us to simultaneously acquire X-ray diffraction (XD) patterns and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values using a spread SC sheet isolated from human skin. The synchrotron X-ray was incident on the SC sheet surface at an angle of 45° to avoid interference between the two kinds of measurements. Detailed comparison between XD and TEWL data suggested that the thermal behavior of water permeability is closely related to the thermal expansion of the lattice spacings of the hexagonal phases above 40 °C and to the existence ratio of the orthorhombic phase below 40 °C. Thus, the new method we developed can give useful information on the mechanism of water permeation in SC without ambiguity caused by separate measurements of structure and water permeability with different samples.

The role of viscosity on skin penetration from cellulose ether-based hydrogels

Background

The rheological properties of dermal drug delivery systems are of importance when designing new formulations. Viscosity not only affects features such as spreadability and skin feel, but may also affect the skin penetration of incorporated actives. Data on the latter aspect are controversial. Our objective was to elucidate the relation between viscosity and drug delivery performance of different model hydrogels assuming that enhanced microviscosity might delay drug release and penetration.

Materials and Methods

Hydrogels covering a broad viscosity range were prepared by adding either HPMC or HEC as gelling agents in different concentrations. To investigate the ability of the gels to deliver a model drug into the skin, sulphadiazine sodium was incorporated and its in vitro skin penetration was monitored using tape stripping/HPLC analysis and non‐invasive confocal Raman spectroscopy.

Results

The trends observed with the two different experimental setups were comparable. Drug penetration depths decreased slightly with increasing viscosity, suggesting slower drug release due to the increasingly dense gel networks. However, the total penetrated drug amounts were independent of the exact formulation viscosity.

Conclusion

Drug penetration was largely unaffected by hydrogel viscosity. Moderately enhanced viscosity is advisable when designing cellulose ether hydrogels to allow for convenient application.

Hydrogen bound water profiles in the skin influenced by optical clearing molecular agents-Quantitative analysis using confocal Raman microscopy

Confocal Raman microscopy has been used to measure depth-dependent profiles of porcine skin ex vivo in the high wavenumber region after application of molecular optical clearing agents (OCAs). Glycerol (70%) and iohexol (100% Omnipaque [300]) water solutions were used as OCAs and topically applied to porcine ear skin for 30 and 60 minutes. Using Gaussian function-based deconvolution, the changes of hydrogen bound water molecule types have been microscopically analyzed down to the depth of 200 μm. Results show that both OCAs induced skin dehydration (reduction of total water), which is 51.3% for glycerol (60 minutes), 33.1% for glycerol (30 minutes), 8.3% for Omnipaque (60 minutes) and 4.4% for Omnipaque (30 minutes), on average for the 40 to 200 μm depths. Among the water types in the skin, the following reduction was observed in concentration of weakly bound (51.1%, 33.2%, 7.5% and 4.6%), strongly bound (50.4%, 33.0%, 7.9% and 3.4%), tightly bound (63.6%, 42.3%, 26.1% and 12.9%) and unbound (55.4%, 28.7%, 10.1% and 5.9%) water types on average for the 40 to 200 μm depths, post application of glycerol (60 minutes), glycerol (30 minutes), Omnipaque (60 minutes) and Omnipaque (30 minutes), respectively. As most concentrated in the skin, weakly and strongly bound water types are preferentially involved in the OCA-induced water flux in the skin, and thus, are responsible for optical clearing efficiency.

Deposition of plant lipids after single application of a lip care product determined by confocal raman spectroscopy, corneometry and transepidermal water-loss

OBJECTIVE

Lip treatment products often incorporate oils and waxes in their formulations, and a desired outcome of their use is to prevent lip dryness and roughness as well as help to repair this condition. The objective of this study was to combine confocal Raman spectroscopy with skin capacitance (corneometry) and transepidermal water loss (closed chamber Aquaflux system) measurements, in the evaluation of the degree of moisturization and lip skin penetration of a fruit wax (Rhus vernicula peel cera) and natural oil-based (Cocos nucifera fruit oil and Olea europea oil) lip care product, following a single application.

METHODS

The study was conducted on a total of 15 healthy female volunteers. Instrumental measurements were performed before and 30 min, 2 h and 6 h after a single application of the product.

RESULTS

Lip skin barrier function as well as lip hydration were significantly improved and penetration of olive oil was maintained for at least 6 h post product application. The deposition of the three component lipids (berry fruit wax, coconut oil and olive oil) into the stratum corneum after a single application of the lip care product was maintained and data significant for 2-6 h post product application. Lipid deposition was regarded as a positive long-lasting skin care (depot-) effect combined with a profound hydrating effect for about 6 h.

CONCLUSION

The tri-method approach taken in this study is deemed relevant and valid for measuring lip hydration offering a complimentary assessment of the barrier function of lip skin and interactive effects of cosmetic ingredients.

Novel confocal Raman microscopy method to investigate hydration mechanisms in human skin

BACKGROUND

Skin hydration is essential for maintaining stratum corneum (SC) flexibility and facilitating maturation events. Moisturizers contain multiple ingredients to maintain and improve skin hydration although a complete understanding of hydration mechanisms is lacking. The ability to differentiate the source of the hydration (water from the environment or deeper skin regions) upon application of product will aid in designing more efficacious formulations.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Novel confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) experiments allow us to investigate mechanisms and levels of hydration in the SC. Using deuterium oxide (D₂ O) as a probe permits the differentiation of endogenous water (H₂ O) from exogenous D₂ O. Following topical application of D₂ O, we first compare in vivo skin depth profiles with those obtained using ex vivo skin. Additional ex vivo experiments are conducted to quantify the kinetics of D₂ O diffusion in the epidermis by introducing D₂ O under the dermis.

RESULTS

Relative D₂ O depth profiles from in vivo and ex vivo measurements compare well considering procedural and instrumental differences. Additional in vivo experiments where D₂ O was applied following topical glycerin application increased the longevity of D₂ O in the SC. Reproducible rates of D₂ O diffusion as a function of depth have been established for experiments where D₂ O is introduced under ex vivo skin.

CONCLUSION

Unique information regarding hydration mechanisms are obtained from CRM experiments using D₂ O as a probe. The source and relative rates of hydration can be delineated using ex vivo skin with D₂ O underneath. One can envision comparing these depth-dependent rates in the presence and absence of topically applied hydrating agents to obtain mechanistic information.

Precise in vivo tissue micro-Raman spectroscopy with simultaneous reflectance confocal microscopy monitoring using a single laser

Raman spectroscopy provides molecular finger-printing of biological tissues. To achieve high spatial resolution, confocal Raman spectroscopy (micro-Raman) has been developed. To guide where micro-Raman is acquired, imaging guidance is necessary, especially for high scattering biological tissue. Reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) has been integrated with micro-Raman. However, existing systems do not allow point-of-interest micro-Raman measurement with simultaneous RCM guidance. Here we demonstrate how a single laser can be used to localize and acquire micro-Raman signals within tissue with simultaneous real-time RCM imaging. Applications of this RCM-guided micro-Raman system for ex vivo samples and in vivo skin measurements are presented.

Review of Modern Techniques for the Assessment of Skin Hydration

Skin hydration is a complex process that influences the physical and mechanical properties of skin. Various technologies have emerged over the years to assess this parameter, with the current standard being electrical probe-based instruments. Nevertheless, their inability to provide detailed information has prompted the use of sophisticated spectroscopic and imaging methodologies, which are capable of in-depth skin analysis that includes structural and composition details. Modern imaging and spectroscopic techniques have transformed skin research in the dermatological and cosmetics disciplines, and are now commonly employed in conjunction with traditional methods for comprehensive assessment of both healthy and pathological skin. This article reviews current techniques employed in measuring skin hydration, and gives an account on their principle of operation and applications in skin-related research.

Structural Transitions in Ceramide Cubic Phases during Formation of the Human Skin Barrier

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of human skin and the primary barrier toward the environment. The barrier function is maintained by stacked layers of saturated long-chain ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. This structure is formed through a reorganization of glycosylceramide-based bilayers with cubic-like symmetry into ceramide-based bilayers with stacked lamellar symmetry. The process is accompanied by deglycosylation of glycosylceramides and dehydration of the skin barrier lipid structure. Using coarse-grained molecular dynamics simulation, we show the effects of deglycosylation and dehydration on bilayers of human skin glycosylceramides and ceramides, folded in three dimensions with cubic (gyroid) symmetry. Deglycosylation of glycosylceramides destabilizes the cubic lipid bilayer phase and triggers a cubic-to-lamellar phase transition. Furthermore, subsequent dehydration of the deglycosylated lamellar ceramide system closes the remaining pores between adjacent lipid layers and locally induces a ceramide chain transformation from a hairpin-like to a splayed conformation.

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy as a tool to measure the prevention of skin penetration by a specifically designed topical medical device

BACKGROUND/AIM

The scope of this study was to utilize confocal Raman spectroscopy in the evaluation of the degree of non-penetration into the viable skin layers of a paraffin and petrolatum-based product for use in the intimate areas of the skin. The formulation was purposely designed with properties to prevent undesirable skin penetration.

METHODS

Product-The test product was a proprietary topical medical device comprising paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum, paraffin, and tocopheryl acetate. Volunteers-A total of 20 healthy volunteers were recruited onto the study-17 females and three males. Product Testing-Raman spectra were obtained at Baseline and 90 minutes after product application. Product Penetration-Skin penetration was calculated from Raman spectra taken at skin depths of -5, 0, 5, 10, 15, and 20 μm.

RESULTS

Raman spectra of the investigated product could be clearly differentiated from the skin spectrum. The minimum measurable concentration of the test product was determined at a detection level of 0.5%. In this study, the test product did not penetrate down to skin depths of 10 to 20 μm.

CONCLUSIONS

Within the precision range of the test method, the investigated product did not penetrate into the compact part of the stratum corneum. The study revealed Raman spectroscopy to be suitable to detect not only penetration but also non-penetration of substances into human skin.

Quantitative Analysis of Free Amino Acids and Urea Derived from Isolated Corneocytes of Healthy Young, Healthy Aged, and Diseased Skin

BACKGROUND/AIMS

Free amino acids (FAAs) and urea, present inside the corneocytes, can be important indicators of skin condition. However, due to the lack of a standard extraction protocol for FAAs from corneocytes, conflicting research results have been reported. Therefore, the purpose of this study was (1) to standardize the extraction protocol and (2) to investigate FAA profiles in healthy young and healthy old volunteers, as well as in psoriasis and atopic dermatitis patients.

METHODS

Skin samples were collected from four groups (healthy young, healthy old, and psoriasis and atopic dermatitis patients) with 5 volunteers per group. Corneocytes were isolated and examined microscopically. FAAs and urea were extracted from the isolated corneocytes, and their amounts were quantified using LC-ESI/MS/MS (after derivatization with Fmoc-Cl) and colorimetric methods, respectively.

RESULTS

The micrographs of the corneocytes showed no morphological features attributable to age or disease conditions. The highest and lowest concentrations of total FAAs and urea were observed in the healthy old group and the healthy young group, respectively. Unlike the other FAAs and urea, citrulline was found at a higher level in the healthy young group than in the disease groups.

CONCLUSION

This study suggests that the levels of FAAs and urea in the skin are affected by age and skin conditions (healthy/diseased). However, further studies are needed to show the effects of different skin conditions on the levels of FAAs and urea.

Monitoring glycosylation metabolism in brain and breast cancer by Raman imaging

We have shown that Raman microspectroscopy is a powerful method for visualization of glycocalyx offering cellular interrogation without staining, unprecedented spatial and spectral resolution, and biochemical information. We showed for the first time that Raman imaging can be used to distinguish successfully between glycosylated and nonglycosylated proteins in normal and cancer tissue. Thousands of protein, lipid and glycan species exist in cells and tissues and their metabolism is monitored via numerous pathways, networks and methods. The metabolism can change in response to cellular environment alterations, such as development of a disease. Measuring such alterations and understanding the pathways involved are crucial to fully understand cellular metabolism in cancer development. In this paper Raman markers of glycogen, glycosaminoglycan, chondroitin sulfate, heparan sulfate proteoglycan were identified based on their vibrational signatures. High spatial resolution of Raman imaging combined with chemometrics allows separation of individual species from many chemical components present in each cell. We have found that metabolism of proteins, lipids and glycans is markedly deregulated in breast (adenocarcinoma) and brain (medulloblastoma) tumors. We have identified two glycoforms in the normal breast tissue and the malignant brain tissue in contrast to the breast cancer tissue where only one glycoform has been identified.

Physical and compositional analysis of differently cultured 3D human skin equivalents by confocal Raman spectroscopy

Three-dimensional skin equivalents are increasingly gaining acceptance as non-animal based experimental models of human skin. They are particularly suited to studying differences in physical and compositional properties of normal and diseased skin and their impact on the skin's barrier function. Typically, a culture protocol yielding a model of normal skin is modified to create a model simulating a pathology. Skin layer thicknesses and lipid/protein contents are compared using methods that are invasive, precluding further experiments on the same replicates, and which may be prone to artefacts. We show here that confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) is a valuable method for non-invasive discrimination of skin equivalents grown under different culture conditions. Using 3D full-thickness skin equivalents developed in-house, we measure significant differences in stratum corneum and viable epidermis apparent thicknesses resulting from a 7-day difference in the cultures' air-lift phase and from supplementation of the culture medium with interleukin 4. Furthermore, stratum corneum thicknesses obtained by CRS are up to 2.6-fold higher than values measured from histological photomicrographs. Regarding composition, CRS reveals the differential effects of the culture protocol modifications on ceramide, cholesterol and protein composition as a function of depth in the stratum corneum.

Raman spectroscopic screening of high and low molecular weight fractions of human serum

This study explores the suitability of Raman spectroscopy as a bioanalytical tool, when coupled with ultra-filtration and multivariate analysis, to detect imbalances in both high molecular weight and low molecular weight fractions of the same samples of human patient serum, in the native liquid form.

Confocal Raman microscopy combined with optical clearing for identification of inks in multicolored tattooed skin in vivo

Raman measurements applied on freshly tattooed porcine skin ex vivo showed a possibility of obtaining the ink pigment related information in the skin. Based on these results, confocal Raman microscopy was used to identify the tattoo ink pigments of different colors in multicolored tattooed human skin in vivo. The Raman signatures of tattoo ink pigments were unique. Therefore, it could be shown that the applied method is successful for the identification of the tattoo ink pigments in human skin in vivo down to depths of approx. 50 μm, which is sufficient to screen the entire epidermis and the top of the papillary dermis area on the forearm and leg skin sites. Additional application of the optical clearing technique in vivo by topical application of glycerol, combined with tape stripping removal of the uppermost stratum corneum layers and defatting allows the extension of depths of investigation in tattooed skin down to approx. 400 μm, i.e. to cover the entire papillary dermis and a large part of the reticular dermis. Thus, the tattoo ink pigments were identified in vivo and depth-dependently in human tattooed skin confirming their presence in the papillary and reticular dermis. The proposed non-invasive in vivo Raman screening combined with optical clearing for identifying the tattoo pigments in the dermis can be an important task preceding a laser-based tattoo removal procedure and for determining the optimal laser parameters.

Dual excitation wavelength system for combined fingerprint and high wavenumber Raman spectroscopy

A fiber optic probe-based Raman spectroscopy system using a single laser module with two excitation wavelengths, at 680 and 785 nm, has been developed for measuring the fingerprint and high wavenumber regions using a single detector. This system is simpler and less expensive than previously reported configurations of combined fingerprint and high wavenumber Raman systems, and its probe-based implementation facilitates numerous in vivo applications. The high wavenumber region of the Raman spectrum ranges from 2800-3800 cm-1 and contains valuable information corresponding to the molecular vibrations of proteins, lipids, and water, which is complimentary to the biochemical signatures found in the fingerprint region (800-1800 cm-1), which probes DNA, lipids, and proteins. The efficacy of the system is demonstrated by tracking changes in water content in tissue-mimicking phantoms, where Voigtian decomposition of the high wavenumber water peak revealed a correlation between the water content and type of water-tissue interactions in the samples. This dual wavelength system was then used for in vivo assessment of cervical remodeling during mouse pregnancy, a physiologic process with known changes in tissue hydration. The system shows that Raman spectroscopy is sensitive to changes in collagen content in the fingerprint region and hydration state in the high wavenumber region, which was verified using an ex vivo comparison of wet and dry weight. Simultaneous fingerprint and high wavenumber Raman spectroscopy will allow precise in vivo quantification of tissue water content in the high wavenumber region, paired with the high biochemical specificity of the fingerprint region.

Topical urea in skincare: A review

Alterations in barrier function are associated with a number of skin diseases, including xerosis, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis. Urea, a component of the natural moisturizing factor of the skin, plays an important role in the preservation of skin hydration and integrity. Several studies have investigated the effects of urea in the clinical setting. Here, we summarize the available clinical evidence regarding the effects of urea in the maintenance of healthy skin and management of skin disorders. At lower doses (≤10%), urea-containing topical formulations act as a skin moisturizer, while at higher concentrations (>10% urea), urea-based preparations exert a keratolytic action. Urea is also useful in combination therapies with anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal drugs, due to its activity as a penetration enhancer.

Classification of burn injury using Raman spectroscopy and optical coherence tomography: An ex-vivo study on porcine skin

Accurate depth assessment of burn wounds is a critical task to provide the right treatment and care. Currently, laser Doppler imaging is able to provide better accuracy compared to the standard clinical evaluation. However, its clinical applicability is limited by factors like scanning distance, time, and cost. Precise diagnosis of burns requires adequate structural and functional details. In this work, we evaluated the combined potential of two non-invasive optical modalities, optical coherence tomography (OCT) and Raman spectroscopy (RS), to identify degrees of burn wounds (superficial partial-thickness (SPT), deep partial-thickness (DPT), and full-thickness (FT)). OCT provides morphological information, whereas, RS provides biochemical aspects. OCT images and Raman spectra were obtained from burns created on ex-vivo porcine skin. Algorithms were developed to segment skin region and extract textural features from OCT images, and derive spectral wave features from RS. These computed features were fed into machine learning classifiers for categorization of burns. Histological results obtained from trichrome staining were used as ground-truth. The combined performance of RS-OCT reported an overall average accuracy of 85% and ROC-AUC=0.94, in distinguishing the burn wounds. The significant performance on ex vivo skin motivates to assess the feasibility of combined RS-OCT in in vivo models.

In Vivo Determination of Moisturizers Efficacy on Human Skin Hydration by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy

This research work deals with in vivo testing of the efficacy of commercial moisturizer products on the hydration of human skin, as there are various in vitro and ex vivo studies questioning their activity. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was used for this purpose of assessing the efficacy of moisturizers on skin hydration mainly owing to its simple, non-invasive, non-destructive, timesaving, and cost-effective nature. Water content and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) of stratum corneum were analyzed and compared using this method at high wavenumber (2500-4000 cm^-1) and fingerprint (400-1800 cm^-1) spectral regions, respectively, as these two parameters are correlated to skin hydration. Four commercial moisturizer products of different brands were tested on volar forearm region of healthy human female volunteers. This study was conducted for a period of 30 days with 0, 7, and 30 days as time points of analysis. The results of this study clearly indicate that not all the moisturizer products hydrate the skin to the expected levels, and this extent of skin hydration varies with duration of application of these products.

An updated review of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin - New perspectives and evaluation for claims support

With the advancement of skin research, today's consumer has increased access to an informed understanding of ageing skin and its appendages, together with a plethora of targeted products to meet such needs. In recent years, increased legislative demands for quality evidential claims support have led not only to the development and validation of clinical methods to measure and quantify ageing skin, but also a clearer understanding of the skin ageing process-especially the impact of both its internal and external environments-as well as a tougher stance on clearly unjustifiable claims. Traditional testing methods used to research and evaluate anti-ageing products claim to employ sophisticated instruments. Today, however, since the term anti-ageing can be considered a misnomer, intelligent use of combined more advanced clinical methods has enabled the development of technologically improved consumer products providing enhanced efficacy and targeted performance. Non-invasive methods for the assessment and quantification of the causes of ageing skin provide tools to the clinical researcher as defined by key clinically observed ageing parameters. Where evidence requires additional support, a number of clinical procedures evaluating ageing skin and hair products are combined with invasive procedures, thus enabling an added value to product claims. As discussed herein, given the enhanced understanding of ageing, we provide an update to our previous reviews of clinical methods used in the assessment of skin ageing, to include the wider aspects of environmental exposure; skin pigmentation; microbiome disturbance; surface topography; colour, radiance, and pH; and structural integrity-all requiring a disciplined approach to their use in dermatological investigations and product claims evidence.

Sensors for Fetal Hypoxia and Metabolic Acidosis: A Review

This article reviews existing clinical practices and sensor research undertaken to monitor fetal well-being during labour. Current clinical practices that include fetal heart rate monitoring and fetal scalp blood sampling are shown to be either inadequate or time-consuming. Monitoring of lactate in blood is identified as a potential alternative for intrapartum fetal monitoring due to its ability to distinguish between different types of acidosis. A literature review from a medical and technical perspective is presented to identify the current advancements in the field of lactate sensors for this application. It is concluded that a less invasive and a more continuous monitoring device is required to fulfill the clinical needs of intrapartum fetal monitoring. Potential specifications for such a system are also presented in this paper.

Caffeine delivery in porcine skin: a confocal Raman study

Confocal Raman microscopy is a novel optical method for studies of pro-drug and drug delivery. This method is a promising technique that enables non-destructive measurement of the permeation profile through skin layers. Peaks of compounds are usually normalised to skin peaks (amino-acid and amide I) for semi-quantitative evaluation. The present study seeks to optimise a methodology for complete quantitative measurement of the amount of an active compound at different depths. Caffeine was used as a tracer to evaluate compound's skin penetration using confocal Raman microscopy. A semi-quantitative depth profile of caffeine was obtained with normalisation of the Raman intensities. These ratios of Raman intensities were correlated with the caffeine concentration using an external calibration curve. The calibration curve was carried out with porcine skin incubated in different concentrations of caffeine; afterwards, each skin sample was analysed by confocal Raman microscopy and HPLC to determine the relation between the Raman signal intensity and the caffeine concentration per skin mass and to create a depth profile. These correlation curves allow the full quantification of the caffeine in skin from Raman intensity ratios at different depths.

Bioequivalence of topical generic products. Part 1: Where are we now?

Regulatory accepted methods for bioequivalence assessment of topical generic products generally involve long and expensive clinical endpoint studies. The only alternative relies on pharmacodynamic trials, solely applicable to corticosteroids. Considerable efforts have been channeled towards the development and validation of other analytical surrogates. The majority of these alternative methods rely on in vitro methodologies that allow a more sensitive and reproducible bioequivalence assessment, avoiding at the same time the financial burden that deeply characterizes clinical trials. The development and validation of these methods represent interesting areas of opportunities for generic drugs, since by enabling faster submission and approval processes, an enlargement of topical drug products with generic version is more easily attainable. This review aims to present a critical discussion of the most promising alternative methods, with particular emphasis on in vitro permeation studies and near infrared spectroscopy studies. Since the last technique is not broadly forecast as a bioequivalence assessment tool, its suitability is assessed by a careful analysis of patents that claim the use of NIR radiation in the skin. In fact, the extensive coverage of the devices that use this technology highlights its applicability towards a better understanding of the mechanism underlying topical drug delivery.

Penetration monitoring of drugs and additives by ATR-FTIR spectroscopy/tape stripping and confocal Raman spectroscopy - A comparative study

Vibrational spectroscopy is a useful tool for analysis of skin properties and to confirm the penetration of drugs and other formulation compounds into the skin. In particular, attenuated total reflection Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy and confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) have been optimised for skin analysis. Despite an impressive amount of data on these techniques, a comparative methodological assessment for skin penetration monitoring of model substances is still amiss. Thus, in vitro skin penetration studies were conducted in parallel using the same porcine material and four model substances, namely sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), sulfathiazole sodium (STZ) and dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO). ATR-FTIR spectroscopy in combination with tape stripping and CRS were employed to evaluate the skin penetration of the applied substances. In addition, the skin hydration status or change in skin hydration after application was investigated. The results show that both methods provide valuable information on the skin penetration potential of applied substances. The penetration profiles determined by CRS or ATR-FTIR/tape stripping were comparable for all substances; a slow decrease in relative substance concentration was visible from the skin surface inwards within the stratum corneum (SC). In general, deeper penetration into the SC was observed with CRS, which may be related to the depth resolution of the employed device. However, when related to the respective total SC thickness of each experiment, the penetration depths determined by parallel CRS and ATR-FTIR analysis were in good agreement for all model substances. The observed order of the penetration depth was DMSO > SDS > SLES > STZ with both techniques. A decrease of the relative concentration to 10% of the maximum value was found approximately between 34 and 89% of total SC thickness. Summarising these findings, advantages and drawbacks of the two techniques for in vitro skin penetration studies are discussed.

Human skin in vivo has a higher skin barrier function than porcine skin ex vivo-comprehensive Raman microscopic study of the stratum corneum

Porcine skin is widely used as a human skin model in dermatology. For both, porcine stratum corneum (SC) ex vivo and human SC in vivo, the hydrogen bonding states of water, the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) concentrations and the intercellular lipids' (ICL) lateral organization are investigated depth-dependently using confocal Raman microscopy. The SC depth profiles show that porcine SC ex vivo is characterized by lower hydrogen bonding states of water (10%-30% SC depth), lower NMF concentration in the whole SC, more β-sheet form of keratin (10%-90% SC depth), more folded tertiary keratin structures (30%-70% SC depth) and higher hexagonal lateral packing order of ICL (10%-50% SC depth) compared to human SC in vivo. The results clearly show a higher value of skin barrier function of human SC in vivo than of porcine SC ex vivo. Thus, the human SC in vivo is less permeable for lipophilic and hydrophilic substances than porcine SC ex vivo. Considering the porcine SC as an ex vivo model of human SC in vivo, these findings should be taken into consideration.