Hypopigmenting agents: an updated review on biological, chemical and clinical aspects

Arbutin encapsulated micelles improved transdermal delivery and suppression of cellular melanin production

Background

Hyperpigmentation is a skin disorder characterized by elevated production of melanin. Current treatment approaches mainly rely on the application of skin lightening chemicals, most of which have safety issues. Efficacy of delivery of the active ingredients to the target organ has also been a challenge. Transdermal based drug delivery platform has been shown to improve drug bioavailability, avoiding the hepatic first pass metabolism, decrease gastrointestinal side effects, and eventually enhance patient compliance.

Results

This article explores the utilization of micellar transdermal delivery technology to improve skin penetration and efficacy of arbutin, a hyperpigmentation agent. The suppression efficacy of cellular melanin production versus cell viability of four active ingredients commonly used in skin lightening products, namely allantoin, arbutin, glycolic acid, and hyaluronic acid were first compared. Arbutin was selected for the micellar delivery studies base on its comparatively low cytotoxicity and better performance in reducing melanin production. Micellar Arbutin cream was formulated using Urah® proprietary micellar technology and was assessed for its cellular melanin suppression efficacy and skin penetration capacity.

Conclusion

The results show that micellar arbutin cream improved both the delivery and cellular melanin suppression, suggesting that micellar transdermal delivery may have potential application in addressing hyperpigmentation skin disorders.Graphical abstract

Sakuranetin Induces Melanogenesis in B16BL6 Melanoma Cells through Inhibition of ERK and PI3K/AKT Signaling Pathways

Sakuranetin (Sak) is considered one of the most important flavanone phytoalexins in regard to antimicrobial activity, and accumulation, in the rice plant. The current study determined that Sak strongly stimulates melanogenesis in B16BL6 melanoma cells in a dose-dependent manner. This flavonoid upregulates the expression of microphthalmia transcription factor (MITF) and reaches its maximum after 24 h. In addition, Sak was found to increase in vitro tyrosinase (Tyr) activity, along with time-dependent upregulation of Tyr, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP2). Sakuranetin also decreased the proliferation rate in these cells without directly affecting their viability, as revealed by MTT and trypan blue assays. Further, Sak was shown to inhibit phosphorylation and activation of ERK1/2 from 12 h, without significantly affecting p38 and JNK phosphorylation. Sakuranetin was also found to inhibit the phosphorylation of AKT at threonine 308 and serine 473 and leads to activation of GSK3β via decreased phosphorylation at serine 9. Taken together, these results demonstrate that Sak stimulates melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells via inhibition of ERK1/2 and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways, which lead to upregulation of Tyr, TRP1, and TRP2. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Inorganic layered double hydroxides as a 4-hexyl resorcinol delivery system for topical applications

In this study, the hydrophobic even skin tone active, 4-hexylresorcinol is intercalated into a Zn–Al layered double hydroxide by co-precipitation method and used as controlled release ingredient in a skin care formulation.

Inhibition of melanogenesis by Gaillardia aristata flower extract

BACKGROUND

The purpose of the study was to determine the anti-melanogenic and anti-oxidant properties of Gaillardia aristata flower extract (GAE).

METHODS

Melanogenesis inhibition by GAE was investigated in cultivated cells and in a human skin model. In cultivated cells, the melanogenesis regulatory effect of GAE was evaluated using melanin content, intracellular tyrosinase activity and anti-oxidant characteristics. In addition, the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins was determined by western blot assay and real-time PCR.

RESULTS

GAE reduced the amount of melanin in B16F10 and normal human epidermal melanocyte cells and suppressed intracellular tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent pattern. Also, GAE significantly decreased the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins (microphthalmia associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1, and dopachrome tautomerase). Real-time PCR results revealed a down-regulation of the mRNAs of these proteins. GAE possessed anti-oxidant characteristics as free radical-scavenging capacity and reducing power. In the three-dimensional human skin model, GAE applied to hyperpigmented skin significantly increased the degree of skin lightening within 2 weeks of treatment. The safety of GAE on human skin was confirmed.

CONCLUSIONS

These results indicate the potential of GAE for use in suppressing skin pigmentation. We proposed GAE as a new candidate of anti-melanogenic and antioxidant agents that could be used for cosmetic skin care products.

Repositioning of Thiourea-Containing Drugs as Tyrosinase Inhibitors

Tyrosinase catalyzes two distinct sequential reactions in melanin biosynthesis: The hydroxylation of tyrosine to dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) and the oxidation of DOPA to dopaquinone. Developing functional modulators of tyrosinase is important for therapeutic and cosmetic purposes. Given the abundance of thiourea moiety in known tyrosinase inhibitors, we studied other thiourea-containing drugs as potential tyrosinase inhibitors. The thiourea-containing drugs in clinical use were retrieved and tested for their ability to inhibit tyrosinase. We observed that methimazole, thiouracil, methylthiouracil, propylthiouracil, ambazone, and thioacetazone inhibited mushroom tyrosinase. Except for methimazole, there was limited information regarding the activity of other drugs against tyrosinase. Both thioacetazone and ambazone significantly inhibited tyrosinase, with IC₅₀ of 14 and 15 μM, respectively. Ambazone decreased melanin content without causing cellular toxicity at 20 μM in B16F10 cells. The activity of ambazone was stronger than that of kojic acid both in enzyme and melanin content assays. Kinetics of enzyme inhibition assigned the thiourea-containg drugs as non-competitive inhibitors. The complex models by docking simulation suggested that the intermolecular hydrogen bond via the nitrogen of thiourea and the contacts via thione were equally important for interacting with tyrosinase. These data were consistent with the results of enzyme assays with the analogues of thiourea.

Different effects of five depigmentary compounds, rhododendrol, raspberry ketone, monobenzone, rucinol and AP736 on melanogenesis and viability of human epidermal melanocytes

Numerous medications are used to treat hyperpigmentation. However, several reports have indicated that repeated application of some agents, such as rhododendrol (RD), raspberry ketone (RK) and monobenzone (MB), can be toxic to melanocytes. Although these agents had severe side effects in human trials, no current in vitro methods can predict the safety of such drugs. This study assessed the in vitro effects of five depigmentary compounds including leukoderma-inducing agents. In particular, we determined the effects of different concentrations and exposure times of different depigmentary agents on cell viability and melanogenesis in the presence and absence of ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation. Concentrations of RD, RK and MB that inhibit melanogenesis are similar to concentrations that are cytotoxic; however, concentrations of rucinol (RC) and AP736 that inhibit melanogenesis are much lower than concentrations that are cytotoxic. Furthermore, the concentrations that cause toxic effects depend on exposure duration, and prolonged exposure to RD, RK and MB had more cytotoxic effects than prolonged exposure to RC and AP736. The cytotoxic effects of RD and RK appear to be mediated by apoptosis due to increased expression of caspase-3 and caspase-8; UVB radiation increased the cytotoxicity of these agents and also increased caspase activity. Our results indicate that different leukoderma-inducing compounds have different effects on the viability of normal epidermal melanocytes and suggest that the in vitro assay used here can be used to predict whether an investigational compound that induces leukoderma may lead to adverse effects in human trials.

N-Nicotinoyl dopamine inhibits skin pigmentation by suppressing of melanosome transfer

We investigated the inhibitory effects of a niacinamide derivative, N-Nicotinoyl dopamine (NND) on melanogenesis. NND inhibits melanosome transfer in a normal human melanocyte-keratinocyte co-culture system and through phagocytic ability without affecting viability of cells while it did not show inhibitory effects of tyrosinase and melanin synthesis in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. In addition, safety of NND was verified through performing neural stem cell morphology assay. Our findings indicate that NND may potentially be used for cosmetic industry for improvement of skin whitening and therapies related with several skin disorders, and the effect of NND may be acquired via reduction of melanosome transfer.

Whitening Effect of Watersoluble Royal Jelly from South Korea

Royal jelly has been widely used as a health supplement worldwide. However, royal jelly has been implicated in allergic reactions, and we developed a water-soluble royal jelly (WSRJ) without the allergy inducing protein. In this study, we aimed to identify the anti-melanogenic efficacy of WSRJ. B16F1 melanoma cells were first treated with 10 nM α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) and then with various doses of WSRJ. In addition, we investigated the mRNA and protein expression of melanogenesis-related genes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1) and TRP-2 by reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction and western blotting. WSRJ directly inhibited tyrosinase and cellular tyrosinase activity, which decreased melanin synthesis in α-MSH stimulated B16F1 melanoma cells a level comparable to that observed with arbutin. WSRJ decreased the mRNA and protein expressions of tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2, which was comparable to that observed with arbutin. WSRJ has strong anti-melanogenic activity, which invoice direct inhibition of tyrosinase enzyme activity and suppression of expression of melanogenesis related genes. Results from this study suggests that WSRJ is a potential candidate for the treatment of skin pigmentation.

Isosakuranetin, a 4'-O-methylated flavonoid, stimulates melanogenesis in B16BL6 murine melanoma cells

AIMS

The beneficial effects of 4'-O-methylated flavonoids on induction of melanogenesis are well established. Here, we report the effect of isosakuranetin (Iso) on melanogenesis in B16BL6 melanoma cells and an analysis of the signaling pathways involved in this activity.

METHODS

B16BL6 melanoma cells were treated with several concentrations of Iso and melanin content was measured. Activation and expression of factors involved in melanogenesis were assessed via western blotting.

KEY FINDINGS

Iso (15 and 30μmol/L) strongly stimulated melanogenesis in a dose-dependent manner. Iso increased tyrosinase activity and up-regulated tyrosinase (Tyr), tyrosinase related protein 1 (TRP1), and tyrosinase related protein 2 (TRP2) in a time-dependent manner. Iso decreased B16 cell proliferation at a concentration above 45μmol/L, and had no effect on cell viability as revealed by MTT and trypan blue assays. Iso up-regulated expression of microphthalmia transcription factor (MITF), with a maximum effect after 12h. H89, a specific inhibitor of PKA, showed that MITF up-regulation is mediated through PKA/CREB activation. Furthermore, Iso decreased phosphorylation of MITF at Ser73 after 24h and 48h of exposure, activating MITF and leading to up-regulation of Tyr, TRP1, and TRP2. Iso inhibited phosphorylation and activation of ERK1/2 after 12h, while no significant effects on p38 and JNK phosphorylation were observed. Iso inhibited AKT phosphorylation and led to activation of GSK3β.

SIGNIFICANCE

Iso stimulates melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells via up-regulation of MITF. Furthermore, Iso-induced inhibition of ERK1/2 and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways activate MITF and subsequent expression of Tyr, TRP1, and TRP2.

Analogues of ethionamide, a drug used for multidrug-resistant tuberculosis, exhibit potent inhibition of tyrosinase

Tyrosinase catalyzes two distinct sequential reactions in melanin biosynthesis: the hydroxylation of tyrosine to DOPA followed by the oxidation of DOPA to dopaquinone. The central roles of melanin in living species have motivated researchers to maintain constant efforts to discover new agents that modulate tyrosinase activity. In this study, we report on the inhibition of tyrosinase by ethionamide and its analogues. Ethionamide, 2-ethylpyridine-4-carbothioamide, is a second-line antituberculosis drug used for the treatment of multidrug-resistant tuberculosis. The chemical similarity of ethionamide to phenylthiourea, a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor, led us to investigate its inhibitory effects on mushroom tyrosinase and the IC50 was calculated as 4 μM. Five analogues of ethionamide, including another antituberculosis drug, prothionamide, were also inhibitory, with values for IC50 in the range of 3-43 μM. Fluorescence quenching experiments supported a mechanism of direct binding. In contrast, isoniazid, a structural analogue and first-line antituberculosis drug, was a poor inhibitor of tyrosinase. We also tested the effects of ethionamide and its analogues on melanin content in B16F10 cells. At a concentration of 50 μM, the molecules, pyridine-2-carbothioamide and thiobenzamide substantially decreased the melanin content by 44% and 37%, respectively. In addition to identifying other interactions, docking simulations showed that the carbothioamide groups of the molecules make essential contacts with the catalytic di-copper atoms. Our results suggest that carbothioamide can be a central moiety for the development of new and potent tyrosinase inhibitors.

Inhibitory Effect of Dried Pomegranate Concentration Powder on Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells; Involvement of p38 and PKA Signaling Pathways

Plants rich in antioxidant substances may be useful for preventing skin aging. Pomegranates, containing flavonoids and other polyphenolic compounds, are widely consumed due to their beneficial properties. We examined the underlying mechanisms of dried pomegranate concentrate powder (PCP) on melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. The antioxidant effects of PCP were determined by measuring free radical scavenging capacity and transcript levels of antioxidant enzymes. To explore the inhibitory effects of PCP on melanin synthesis, we measured tyrosinase activity and melanin content in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, the levels of tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), TRP-2, tyrosinase, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) expression were determined by Western blotting. Changes in the phosphorylation status of protein kinase A (PKA), cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB), mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K), serine/threonine kinase Akt, and glycogen kinase 3β (GSK3β) were also examined. The free radical scavenging activity of PCP increased in a dose-dependent manner. In PCP-treated B16F10 cells, transcript levels of glutathione peroxidase-1 (GPx-1) were increased compared with α-MSH-stimulated cells. In addition, PCP led to the down-regulation of phospho-p38, phospho-PKA, phospho-CREB, phospho-GSK3β, MITF, and TRP-1 compared with α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. We believe this effect may be associated with PCP activity, which leads to the inhibition of melanin production and tyrosinase activity. These results suggest that PCP decreases tyrosinase activity and melanin production via inactivation of the p38 and PKA signaling pathways, and subsequently decreases phosphorylation of CREB, MITF, and melanogenic enzymes. These observations provided new insights on the molecular mechanisms of the skin-whitening property of PCP.

Human tyrosinase produced in insect cells: a landmark for the screening of new drugs addressing its activity

Human tyrosinase is the first enzyme of the multistep process of melanogenesis. It catalyzes the hydroxylation of L-tyrosine to L-dihydroxyphenylalanine and the following oxidation of o-diphenol to the corresponding quinone, L-dopaquinone. In spite of its biomedical relevance, its reactivity is far from being fully understood, mostly because of the lack of a suitable expression system. Indeed, until now, studies on substrates and inhibitors of tyrosinases have been performed in vitro almost exclusively using mushroom or bacterial enzymes. We report on the production of a recombinant human tyrosinase in insect cells (Sf9 line). Engineering the protein, improving cell culture conditions, and setting a suitable purification protocol optimized product yield. The obtained active enzyme was truthfully characterized with a number of substrate and inhibitor molecules. These results were compared to those gained from a parallel analysis of the bacterial (Streptomyces antibioticus) enzyme and those acquired from the literature for mushroom tyrosinase, showing that the reactivity of the human enzyme appears unique and pointing out the great bias introduced when using non-human tyrosinases to measure the inhibitory efficacy of new molecules. The described enzyme is therefore an indispensable paradigm in testing pharmaceutical or cosmetic agents addressing tyrosinase activity.

Phytochemical capacity of Nitraria retusa leaves extracts inhibiting growth of melanoma cells and enhancing melanogenesis of B16F10 melanoma

BACKGROUND

Here, phytochemical profile of Nitraria retusa (N. Retusa) leaf extracts was identified and their ability to induce apoptosis and inhibiting growth of melanoma cells and enhancing melanogenesis of B16F10 melanoma was evaluated.

METHODS

The Apoptosis was evidenced by investigating DNA fragmentation, and Acridine orange/ethidium bromide staining. Amounts of melanin and tyrosinase were measured spectrophotometrically at 475 nm.

RESULTS

Extracts from Nitraria retusa exhibited significant anti-proliferative activity after 48 h of incubation. Our result was confirmed by ladder DNA fragmentation profile. All extracts showed also the ability to enhance melanogenesis and tyrosinase activity of B16F10 melanoma cells.

CONCLUSION

The tested extracts have a significant biological effect which may be due to their bioactive compounds.

CSE1L Links cAMP/PKA and Ras/ERK pathways and regulates the expressions and phosphorylations of ERK1/2, CREB, and MITF in melanoma cells

The Ras/ERK (extracellular signal-regulated protein kinase) and cAMP/PKA (protein kinase A) pathways are essential for the transcriptional activities of CREB (cAMP response element binding protein) and MITF (microphthalmia-associated transcription factor) in melanogenesis and the progression of melanoma. However, the interaction between Ras/ERK and cAMP/PKA pathways in the melanogenesis and progression of melanoma is not fully known. Here, we report that CSE1L (chromosome segregation 1-like protein) regulates cAMP/PKA-induced CREB and MITF expressions as well as Ras-induced ERK1/2 phosphorylation. IBMX, a cAMP/PKA activator, treatment induced CSE1L phosphorylation and augmented Ras-induced ERK1/2 phosphorylation. CSE1L knockdown by CSE1L shRNA expression vectors inhibited Ras-induced ERK1/2 phosphorylation and melanogenesis in melanoma cells. CSE1L overexpression increased phospho-CREB expression; CSE1L knockdown also inhibited Ras-induced phospho-CREB, MITF, and tyrosinase expressions, regardless of the presence of IBMX. This study identifies CSE1L links and controls the Ras/ERK and cAMP/PKA pathways in the melanogenesis of melanoma cells. Melanomas frequently develop drug resistance via paradoxical activation of Ras/Raf/MEK/ERK or alternatively activated Ras/ERK and cAMP/PKA pathways. Thus CSE1L may be a potential target for treating melanomas that harbor Ras mutations or are resistant to drugs targeting Raf/MEK/ERK. © 2015 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Structure-Activity Relationship Study of Hydroxycoumarins and Mushroom Tyrosinase

The structure-activity relationships of four hydroxycoumarins, two with the hydroxyl group on the aromatic ring of the molecule and two with the hydroxyl group replacing hydrogen of the pyrone ring, and their interactions with mushroom tyrosinase were studied. These compounds displayed different behaviors upon action of the enzyme. The two compounds, ar-hydroxylated 6-hydroxycoumarin and 7-hydroxycoumarin, were both weak substrates of the enzyme. Interestingly, in both cases, the product of the catalysis was the 6,7-hydroxycoumarin, although 5,6- and 7,8-isomers could also theoretically be formed. Additionally, both were able to reduce the formation of dopachrome when tyrosinase acted on its typical substrate, L-tyrosine. Although none of the compounds that contained a hydroxyl group on the pyrone ring were substrates of tyrosinase, the 3-hydroxycoumarin was a potent inhibitor of the enzyme, and the 4-hydroxycoumarin was not an inhibitor. These results were compared with those obtained by in silico molecular docking predictions to obtain potentially useful information for the synthesis of new coumarin-based inhibitors that resemble the structure of the 3-hydroxycoumarin.

Design, synthesis, and anti-melanogenic effects of (E)-2-benzoyl-3-(substituted phenyl)acrylonitriles

Background

Tyrosinase is the most prominent target for inhibitors of hyperpigmentation because it plays a critical role in melaninogenesis. Although many tyrosinase inhibitors have been identified, from both natural and synthetic sources, there remains a considerable demand for novel tyrosinase inhibitors that are safer and more effective.

Methods

(E)-2-Benzoyl-3-(substituted phenyl)acrylonitriles (BPA analogs) with a linear β-phenyl-α,β-unsaturated carbonyl scaffold were designed and synthesized as potential tyrosinase inhibitors. We evaluated their effects on cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in murine B16F10 melanoma cells and their ability to inhibit mushroom tyrosinase activity.

Results

BPA analogs exhibited inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase. In particular, BPA13 significantly suppressed melanin biosynthesis and inhibited cellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 cells in a dose-dependent manner. A docking study revealed that BPA13 had higher binding affinity for tyrosinase than kojic acid.

Conclusion

BPA13, which possesses a linear β-phenyl-α,β-unsaturated carbonyl scaffold, is a potential candidate skin-whitening agent and treatment for diseases associated with hyperpigmentation.

Discovery of Potent Cysteine-Containing Dipeptide Inhibitors against Tyrosinase: A Comprehensive Investigation of 20 × 20 Dipeptides in Inhibiting Dopachrome Formation

Tyrosinase is an essential copper-containing enzyme required for melanin synthesis. The overproduction and abnormal accumulation of melanin cause hyperpigmentation and neurodegenerative diseases. Thus, tyrosinase is promising for use in medicine and cosmetics. Our previous study identified a natural product, A5, resembling the structure of the dipeptide WY and apparently inhibiting tyrosinase. Here, we comprehensively estimated the inhibitory capability of 20 × 20 dipeptides against mushroom tyrosinase. We found that cysteine-containing dipeptides, directly blocking the active site of tyrosinase, are highly potent in inhibition; in particular, N-terminal cysteine-containing dipeptides markedly outperform the C-terminal-containing ones. The cysteine-containing dipeptides, CE, CS, CY, and CW, show comparative bioactivities, and tyrosine-containing dipeptides are substrate-like inhibitors. The dipeptide PD attenuates 16.5% melanin content without any significant cytotoxicity. This study reveals the functional role of cysteine residue positional preference and the selectivity of specific amino acids in cysteine-containing dipeptides against tyrosinase, aiding in developing skin-whitening products.

A Multi-Target Approach toward the Development of Novel Candidates for Antidermatophytic Activity: Ultrastructural Evidence on α-Bisabolol-Treated Microsporum gypseum

Multi-target strategies are directed toward targets that are unrelated (or distantly related) and can create opportunities to address different pathologies. The antidermatophytic activities of nine natural skin lighteners: α-bisabolol, kojic acid, β-arbutin, azelaic acid, hydroquinone, nicotinamide, glycine, glutathione and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, were evaluated, in comparison with the known antifungal drug fluconazole, on nine dermatophytes responsible for the most common dermatomycoses: Microsporum gypseum, Microsporum canis, Trichophyton violaceum, Nannizzia cajetani, Trichophyton mentagrophytes, Epidermophyton floccosum, Arthroderma gypseum, Trichophyton rubrum and Trichophyton tonsurans. α-Bisabolol showed the best antifungal activity against all fungi and in particular; against M. gypseum. Further investigations were conducted on this fungus to evaluate the inhibition of spore germination and morphological changes induced by α-bisabolol by TEM.

N-Nicotinoyl tyramine, a novel niacinamide derivative, inhibits melanogenesis by suppressing MITF gene expression

We synthesized and investigated the inhibitory effects of a novel niacinamide derivative, N-nicotinoyltyramine (NNT) on melanogenesis. NNT inhibited melanin production in B16F10 murine melanoma cells stimulated with α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH), in human melanocyte and in three-dimensional cultured human skin model. NNT did not affect the catalytic activity of tyrosinase, but acted as an inhibitor of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase expressions in B16F10 cells. These findings suggest that the hypopigmentary effect of NNT results from the down-regulation of MITF and subsequently of tyrosinase, although NNT did not directly inhibit tyrosinase activity. In addition, safety of NNT was verified through performing neural stem cell morphology assay and Human repeated insult patch test as whitening agent. Our findings indicate that NNT may be a potential and non-skin irritant whitening agent for use in cosmetics and in the medical treatment of pigmentary disorders.

Modulation effects of sweroside isolated from the Lonicera japonica on melanin synthesis

In the course of screening for the melanogenesis inhibitors, sweroside was isolated from Lonicera japonica. Its chemical structure was determined on the basis of spectroscopic analysis, including mass spectroscopy and nuclear magnetic resonance analysis. Sweroside inhibited potent melanogenesis in melan-a cells at 300μM without cytotoxicity. Also, sweroside decreased tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1) and TRP-2 protein production in melan a cells. To identify the signaling pathway of sweroside, the ability of sweroside to influence Akt and extracellular signal-regulated protein kinase (ERK) activation was investigated. Sweroside induced Akt and ERK in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, the specific inhibition of the Akt and ERK signaling pathways were studied by specific inhibitor LY294002 and U0126, respectively and it was causing the increased melanin synthesis. Furthermore, sweroside presented inhibition of the body pigmentation and tyrosinase activity in zebrafish in vivo model. These results suggest that sweroside isolated from L. japonica may be an effective skin-whitening agent through the regulates the expression of MAP kinase and melanogenic enzymes.

Skin transcriptome profiles associated with skin color in chickens

Nutritional and medicinal benefits have been attributed to the consumption of tissues from the black-boned chickens in oriental countries. Lueyang black-boned chicken is one of the native chicken breeds. However, some birds may instead have white or lighter skin, which directly causes economic losses every year. Previous studies of pigmentation have focused on a number of genes that may play important roles in coat color regulation. Illumina2000 sequencing technology was used to catalog the global gene expression profiles in the skin of the Lueyang chicken with white versus black skin. A total of 18,608 unigenes were assembled from the reads obtained from the skin of the white and black chickens. A total of 649 known genes were differentially expressed in the black versus white chickens, with 314 genes that were up regulated and 335 genes that were down-regulated, and a total of 162 novel genes were differentially expressed in the black versus white chickens, consisting of 73 genes that were up-regulated (including 4 highly expressed genes that were expressed exclusively in the skin of the black chickens) and 89 genes that were down-regulated. There were also a total of 8 known coat-color genes expressed in previous studies (ASIP, TYR, KIT, TYRP1, OCA2, KITLG, MITF and MC1R). In this study, 4 of which showed greater expression in the black chickens, and several were up-regulated, such as KIT, ASIP, TYR and OCA2. To our surprise, KITLG, MITF and MC1R showed no significant difference in expression between the black- and white-skinned chickens, and the expression of TYRP1 was not detected in either skin color. The expression of ASIP, TYR, KIT, TYRP1, OCA2, KITLG, MITF and MC1R was validated by real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction (qPCR), and the results of the qPCR were consistent with the RNA-seq. This study provides several candidate genes that may be associated with the development of black versus white skin. More importantly, the fact that the MC1R gene showed no significant difference in expression between the black and white chickens is of particular interest for future studies that aim to elucidate its functional role in the regulation of skin color.

Characterization of Melanogenesis Inhibitory Constituents of Morus alba Leaves and Optimization of Extraction Conditions Using Response Surface Methodology

Melanin is a natural pigment that plays an important role in the protection of skin, however, hyperpigmentation cause by excessive levels of melatonin is associated with several problems. Therefore, melanogenesis inhibitory natural products have been developed by the cosmetic industry as skin medications. The leaves of Morus alba (Moraceae) have been reported to inhibit melanogenesis, therefore, characterization of the melanogenesis inhibitory constituents of M. alba leaves was attempted in this study. Twenty compounds including eight benzofurans, 10 flavonoids, one stilbenoid and one chalcone were isolated from M. alba leaves and these phenolic constituents were shown to significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin content in B6F10 melanoma cells. To maximize the melanogenesis inhibitory activity and active phenolic contents, optimized M. alba leave extraction conditions were predicted using response surface methodology as a methanol concentration of 85.2%; an extraction temperature of 53.2 °C and an extraction time of 2 h. The tyrosinase inhibition and total phenolic content under optimal conditions were found to be 74.8% inhibition and 24.8 μg GAE/mg extract, which were well-matched with the predicted values of 75.0% inhibition and 23.8 μg GAE/mg extract. These results shall provide useful information about melanogenesis inhibitory constituents and optimized extracts from M. alba leaves as cosmetic therapeutics to reduce skin hyperpigmentation.

Inhibitors of melanogenesis: a patent review (2009 - 2014)

INTRODUCTION

Melanogenesis is the process of producing the melanin pigment, in which a series of chemical and enzymatic pathways are involved. Modulation at any level of this process would become an important approach in the treatment of hyper- or hypopigmentation-related diseases. Since hyperpigmentation covers important issue in cosmetics, there is a need of such review to understand and update this field to the public domain.

AREAS COVERED

In this review, authors discuss most recent melanogenesis inhibitors published in the patents since 2009. The up-to-date overview of classical catechol-based tyrosinase inhibitors to non-classical melanogenesis inhibitors with different mechanism of action is discussed. Inhibitors including small-interfering RNA and peptides from ∼ 30 patents and their associated literature are also discussed.

EXPERT OPINION

Although a huge number of melanogenesis inhibitors have been reported, the future studies should be focused towards the identification of new inhibitors with a clear mechanism. The next breakthrough in the field therefore, is likely to come from the detailed structure-activity relationship studies of thioureas with improved therapeutic profiles. Targeting other parameters such as number or size of melanosomes, maturation of melanosomes and expression of melanogenic enzymes may give the best results to overcome toxicity and other formulation problems.

Phenolic Compounds from the Leaves of Stewartia pseudocamellia Maxim. and their Whitening Activities

The half-dried leaves of Stewartia. pseudocamellia were extracted with hot water (SPE) and partitioned with n-hexane (SPEH), dichloromethane (SPED), and ethyl acetate (SPEE) successively. SPE and SPEE showed significant inhibitory effects against melanogenesis and tyrosinase activities. By bioassay-guided isolation, ten phenolic compounds were isolated by column chromatography from SPEE. The whitening effect of the isolated compounds from SPEE were tested for the inhibitory activities against melanogenesis using B16 melanoma cells, in vitro inhibition of tyrosinase, and L-3,4-dihydorxy-indole-2-carboxylic acid (L-DOPA) auto-oxidation assay. A cytotoxic activity assay was done to examine the cellular toxicity in Raw 264.7 macrophage cells. Of the compounds isolated, gallic acid and quercetin revealed significant inhibitory activities against melanogenesis compared to arbutin. In particular, quercetin exhibited similar inhibitory activities against tyrosinase and L-DOPA oxidation without cytotoxicity. These results suggested that SPE could be used as a potential source of natural skin-whitening material in cosmetics as well as in food products.

cAMP-dependent activation of protein kinase A as a therapeutic target of skin hyperpigmentation by diphenylmethylene hydrazinecarbothioamide

BACKGROUND AND PURPOSE

cAMP as a second messenger stimulates expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) or the tyrosinase gene in UVB-induced skin pigmentation. Diphenylmethylene hydrazinecarbothioamide (QNT 3-80) inhibits α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin production in B16 murine melanoma cells but its molecular basis remains to be defined. Here, we investigated the mechanism underlying the amelioration of skin hyperpigmentation by QNT 3-80.

EXPERIMENTAL APPROACH

We used melanocyte cultures with raised levels of cAMP and UVB-irradiated dorsal skin of guinea pigs for pigmentation assays. Immunoprecipitation, kemptide phosphorylation, fluorescence analysis and docking simulation were applied to elucidate a molecular mechanism of QNT 3-80.

KEY RESULTS

QNT 3-80 inhibited melanin production in melanocyte cultures with elevated levels of cAMP, including those from human foreskin. This compound also ameliorated hyperpigmentation in vivo in UVB-irradiated dorsal skin of guinea pigs. As a mechanism, QNT 3-80 directly antagonized cAMP binding to the regulatory subunit of PKA, nullified the dissociation and activation of inactive PKA holoenzyme in melanocytes and fitted into the cAMP-binding site on the crystal structure of human PKA under the most energetically favourable simulation. QNT 3-80 consequently inhibited cAMP- or UVB-induced phosphorylation (activation) of cAMP-responsive element-binding protein in vitro and in vivo, thus down-regulating expression of genes for MITF or tyrosinase in the melanogenic process.

CONCLUSIONS AND IMPLICATIONS

Our data suggested that QNT 3-80 could contribute significantly to the treatment of skin disorders with hyperpigmented patches with the cAMP-binding site of PKA as its molecular target.

A study of the human skin-whitening effects of resveratryl triacetate

Resveratrol has a variety of bioactivities that include its anti-melanogenic effects, but its use in cosmetics has been challenging partly because of its chemical instability. Resveratryl triacetate (RTA) is a prodrug that can enhance stability. The purpose of this study was to examine the skin safety and whitening effects of RTA in human subjects. The primary skin irritation potentials of RTA and resveratrol were tested at 0.1 and 0.5 % on human subjects. Resveratrol at a concentration of 0.5 % induced weak skin irritation, whereas RTA did not induce any skin responses. The skin-whitening efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing 0.4 % RTA was evaluated in two different test models. In the artificial tanning model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the skin of the forearms of 22 human subjects after pigmentation induction by ultraviolet irradiation. Applying the test and the control products to the artificial tanning model for 8 weeks increased the individual topology angles (ITA°) by 17.06 and 13.81 %, respectively, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). In the hyperpigmentation model, the test product and the control product were applied twice daily to the faces of 21 human subjects. The averaged intensity of the hyperpigmented spots decreased by 2.67 % in the test group and 1.46 % in the control group, a difference that was statistically significant (p < 0.05). Therefore, RTA incorporated into cosmetic formulations can whiten human skin without inducing skin irritation.

Broadening the repertoire of melanoma-associated T-cell epitopes

Immune therapy has provided a significant breakthrough in the treatment of metastatic melanoma. Despite the remarkable clinical efficacy and established involvement of effector CD8 T cells, the knowledge of the exact peptide-MHC complexes recognized by T cells on the tumor cell surface is limited. Many melanoma-associated T-cell epitopes have been described, but this knowledge remains largely restricted to HLA-A2, and we lack understanding of the T-cell recognition in the context of other HLA molecules. We selected six melanoma-associated antigens (MAGE-A3, NY-ESO-1, gp100, Mart1, tyrosinase and TRP-2) that are frequently recognized in patients with the aim of identifying novel T-cell epitopes restricted to HLA-A1, -A3, -A11 and -B7. Using in silico prediction and in vitro confirmation, we identified 127 MHC ligands and analyzed the T-cell responses against these ligands via the MHC multimer-based enrichment of peripheral blood from 39 melanoma patients and 10 healthy donors. To dissect the T-cell reactivity against this large peptide library, we used combinatorial-encoded MHC multimers and observed the T-cell responses against 17 different peptide-MHC complexes in the patient group and four in the healthy donor group. We confirmed the processing and presentation of HLA-A3-restricted T-cell epitopes from tyrosinase (TQYESGSMDK) and gp100 (LIYRRRLMK) and an HLA-A11-restricted T-cell epitope from gp100 (AVGATKVPR) via the cytolytic T-cell recognition of melanoma cell lines and/or K562 cells expressing the appropriate antigen and HLA molecule. We further found T-cell reactivity against two of the identified sequences among tumor-infiltrating lymphocytes from melanoma patients, suggesting a potential clinical relevance of these sequences.

Anti-melanogenic effects of black, green, and white tea extracts on immortalized melanocytes

Tea contains polyphenols and is one of the most popular beverages consumed worldwide. Because most tyrosinase inhibitors that regulate melanogenesis are phenol/catechol derivatives, this study investigated the inhibitory effects of Camellia sinensis water extracts (CSWEs), including black tea, green tea, and white tea extracts, on melanogenesis using immortalized melanocytes. CSWEs inhibited melanin accumulation and melanin synthesis along with tyrosinase activity in a concentration-dependent manner. These inhibitory effects were superior to those of arbutin, a well-known depigmenting agent. The anti-melanogenic activity of black (fermented) tea was higher than that of a predominant tea catecholamine, epigallocatechin gallate. CSWEs, especially black tea extract, decreased tyrosinase protein levels in a concentration-dependent manner. These results suggest that the anti-melanogenic effect of CSWEs is mediated by a decrease in both tyrosinase activity and protein expression, and may be augmented by fermentation. Thus, CSWEs could be useful skin-whitening agents in the cosmetic industry.

Condition-dependence, pleiotropy and the handicap principle of sexual selection in melanin-based colouration

The signalling function of melanin-based colouration is debated. Sexual selection theory states that ornaments should be costly to produce, maintain, wear or display to signal quality honestly to potential mates or competitors. An increasing number of studies supports the hypothesis that the degree of melanism covaries with aspects of body condition (e.g. body mass or immunity), which has contributed to change the initial perception that melanin-based colour ornaments entail no costs. Indeed, the expression of many (but not all) melanin-based colour traits is weakly sensitive to the environment but strongly heritable suggesting that these colour traits are relatively cheap to produce and maintain, thus raising the question of how such colour traits could signal quality honestly. Here I review the production, maintenance and wearing/displaying costs that can generate a correlation between melanin-based colouration and body condition, and consider other evolutionary mechanisms that can also lead to covariation between colour and body condition. Because genes controlling melanic traits can affect numerous phenotypic traits, pleiotropy could also explain a linkage between body condition and colouration. Pleiotropy may result in differently coloured individuals signalling different aspects of quality that are maintained by frequency-dependent selection or local adaptation. Colouration may therefore not signal absolute quality to potential mates or competitors (e.g. dark males may not achieve a higher fitness than pale males); otherwise genetic variation would be rapidly depleted by directional selection. As a consequence, selection on heritable melanin-based colouration may not always be directional, but mate choice may be conditional to environmental conditions (i.e. context-dependent sexual selection). Despite the interest of evolutionary biologists in the adaptive value of melanin-based colouration, its actual role in sexual selection is still poorly understood.

Photoprotective effects of oxyresveratrol and Kuwanon O on DNA damage induced by UVA in human epidermal keratinocytes

Ultraviolet A not only plays a major part in photoaging and skin tanning but also induces genetic damage and mutation in the epidermal basal layer of human skin. The photoprotective effect of oxyresveratrol and kuwanon O, two phenolic compounds from the root extract of Morus australis, in human primary epidermal keratinocytes was investigated in this study. Both of them were nontoxic to cells at a concentration less than 10 and 0.5 μM, respectively. After pretreatment at the concentrations of 5 and 10 μM, oxyresveratrol increased cell viability, exhibited significant suppressions on UVA- or H2O2-induced cellular ROS. UVA-enhanced nitrotyrosine was also reduced by post-treatment with oxyresveratrol at theses concentrations. Kuwanon O presented similar inhibitions on cellular ROS and nitrotyrosine with lower concentrations (0.25 and 0.5 μM), but there is no significant protection on cell survival after UVA irradiation. Their photoprotective effects also involved the enhanced repair of 8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine (8-OHdG) and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) as mediated by the augment of p53 expression after UVA radiation.

Discovery of highly potent tyrosinase inhibitor, T1, with significant anti-melanogenesis ability by zebrafish in vivo assay and computational molecular modeling

Tyrosinase is involved in melanin biosynthesis and the abnormal accumulation of melanin pigments leading to hyperpigmentation disorders that can be treated with depigmenting agents. A natural product T1, bis(4-hydroxybenzyl)sulfide, isolated from the Chinese herbal plant, Gastrodia elata, is a strong competitive inhibitor against mushroom tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 0.53 μM, Ki = 58 ± 6 nM), outperforms than kojic acid. The cell viability and melanin quantification assay demonstrate that 50 μM of T1 apparently attenuates 20% melanin content of human normal melanocytes without significant cell toxicity. Moreover, the zebrafish in vivo assay reveals that T1 effectively reduces melanogenesis with no adverse side effects. The acute oral toxicity study evidently confirms that T1 molecule is free of discernable cytotoxicity in mice. Furthermore, the molecular modeling demonstrates that the sulfur atom of T1 coordinating with the copper ions in the active site of tyrosinase is essential for mushroom tyrosinase inhibition and the ability of diminishing the human melanin synthesis. These results evident that T1 isolated from Gastrodia elata is a promising candidate in developing pharmacological and cosmetic agents of great potency in skin-whitening.

Design and discovery of tyrosinase inhibitors based on a coumarin scaffold

A novel series of 3-aryl and 3-heteroarylcoumarins displaying tyrosinase inhibitory activity.

Rationale of using hypopigmenting drugs and their clinical application in melasma

Among the pigmentary disorders, melasma is the prototype disorder characterized by hyperpigmentation. Although, conventionally, triple combination creams are used, there is a need for alternatives to hydroquinone as the drug has restrictions on its widespread use. This needs an understanding of the steps involved in the melanogenesis and the drugs that inhibit the key steps. The data on in vitro inhibition need to be then translated into clinical in vivo results, before a rationale compounded fixed drug preparation is marketed that inhibits the major steps in the pigmentation pathway. There is also a need to look for drugs that are superior to hydroquinone, as only then will they have a meaningful clinical utility. For now, a few drugs like deoxyarbutin, ellagic acid, dioic acid, n-butylresorcinol and azelaic acid have such properties in clinical trials, while metformin is a recent addition.