Clinical efficacy and safety of 4-hexyl-1,3-phenylenediol for improving skin hyperpigmentation

Synthetic Polymer Nanoparticles as an Abiotic Artificial Inhibitor of Tyrosinase

An innovative methodology is presented for synthesizing synthetic polymer nanoparticles (TINPs) as potent tyrosinase inhibitors. This inhibition strategy combines the integration of two distinct functionalities, phenol, and phenylboronic acid, within the TINPs structure. The phenyl group mimics the natural monophenol substrate, forming a strong coordination with the catalytic copper ion, significantly inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Additionally, phenylboronic acid interacts with catechol, another tyrosinase substrate, further reducing enzyme efficiency. The shared benzene ring in phenyl and phenylboronic acid enhances binding to tyrosinase's hydrophobic pocket near its copper active site, contributing to potent inhibition. TINPs exhibit exceptional performance, boasting an impressive IC50 value of 3.5×10-8 m and an inhibition constant of 9.8×10-9 m. Validation of the approach is unequivocally demonstrated through the successful inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin production, substantiated in both in vitro and in vivo scenarios. The mechanism of TINP inhibition is elucidated through circular dichroism and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. This study introduces a versatile design approach for developing abiotic polymer-based enzyme inhibitors, expanding possibilities in enzyme inhibition research.

Are non-animal systemic safety assessments protective? A toolbox and workflow

An important question in toxicological risk assessment is whether non-animal new approach methodologies (NAMs) can be used to make safety decisions that are protective of human health, without being overly conservative. In this work, we propose a core NAM toolbox and workflow for conducting systemic safety assessments for adult consumers. We also present an approach for evaluating how protective and useful the toolbox and workflow are by benchmarking against historical safety decisions. The toolbox includes physiologically based kinetic (PBK) models to estimate systemic C_max levels in humans, and 3 bioactivity platforms, comprising high-throughput transcriptomics, a cell stress panel, and in vitro pharmacological profiling, from which points of departure are estimated. A Bayesian model was developed to quantify the uncertainty in the C_max estimates depending on how the PBK models were parameterized. The feasibility of the evaluation approach was tested using 24 exposure scenarios from 10 chemicals, some of which would be considered high risk from a consumer goods perspective (eg, drugs that are systemically bioactive) and some low risk (eg, existing food or cosmetic ingredients). Using novel protectiveness and utility metrics, it was shown that up to 69% (9/13) of the low risk scenarios could be identified as such using the toolbox, whilst being protective against all (5/5) the high-risk ones. The results demonstrated how robust safety decisions could be made without using animal data. This work will enable a full evaluation to assess how protective and useful the toolbox and workflow are across a broader range of chemical-exposure scenarios.

Clinical brightening efficacy and safety of Melasolv™ (3,4,5-trimethoxy cinnamate thymol ester, TCTE) in Southeast Asian women

BACKGROUND

Skin darkening because of increased and irregular synthesis of melanin causes melasma, solar lentigo, and freckles. Melasolv™, produced in the early 2000s, shows potent depigmenting effect and has low cytotoxicity. It has been used as a brightening agent in cosmetics for decades.

AIMS

This study was conducted to investigate whether Melasolv™ is effective for the skin of ASEAN (Southeast Asia) women.

METHODS

We recruited ASEAN women in Singapore and divided them into two groups (active group vs. placebo group). Melasolv^™ and placebo formulations were applied twice a day for 12 weeks. The changes in the pigmented spots were visually evaluated by an expert and assessed using a spectrophotometer and Mexameter at 0, 4, 8, and 12 weeks.

RESULTS

The visual evaluation revealed significant improvements, in both size and color intensity, in the active group compared with those in the placebo group at 12 weeks. In the spectrophotometric evaluation, the L* value of the pigmented spots in the active group was significantly higher than that in the placebo group at 12 weeks. Similar results were obtained in the evaluation using the Mexameter. After 12 weeks, the melanin index of the pigmented spots significantly decreased, and it was significantly higher than that in the placebo group. There was no significant change in the erythema index. In the image analysis, there were no significant differences in skin color brightness and evenness in the active group compared with those in the placebo group.

CONCLUSION

Melasolv^™ can be effective used for skin brightening.

Traditional Decoction and PUAE Aqueous Extracts of Pomegranate Peels as Potential Low-Cost Anti-Tyrosinase Ingredients

The aim of the study is to evaluate the anti-tyrosinase activity of different aqueous extracts obtained from pomegranate juice processing by-products. External pomegranate peels of two certified cultivars (Akko and Wonderful), were extracted using only water as the extraction solvent. A traditional decoction and a pulsed ultrasound-assisted extraction (PUAE), both 10 min long, were performed and compared. All the aqueous extracts proved to be rich in bioactive compounds. In particular, the total phenolic content (TPC) ranged from 148 to 237 mg gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g of dried peels (DW), the radical-scavenging ability (RSA) ranged from 307 to 472 mg ascorbic acid equivalent (AAE)/g DW, the free ellagic acid content (EA) ranged from 49 to 94 µg/mL, and the ellagitannins (ETs) ranged from 242 to 340 µg/mL. For both cultivars, PUAE extracts had higher ET content and a lower EC50, while the decoctions had slightly higher TPC, RSA, and free EA amounts. Principal component analysis (PCA) highlighted the direct correlation between the ET content and the tyrosinase enzyme inhibition (lower values of EC50). These findings suggest the potential use of both these natural extracts as low-cost lightening and/or anti-browning ingredients exploitable in several formulations (e.g., cosmetics) or extemporarily usable.

Restoration of skin pigmentation after deep partial or full-thickness burn injury

Significant skin pigmentation changes occur when patients suffer deep burn injuries. These pigmentation disorders may cause not only cosmetic and psychological issues, but more importantly it increases the risk of skin cancer or photoaging. Severe burns significantly effect on the process of repigmentation as the pigmentation is tightly regulated by cell proliferation and differentiation of melanocytes and melanocyte stem cells which are housing in the epidermis and hair follicles of the skin. In the present review, we discuss the possible mechanisms to replenish the melanocytes from the healthy epidermis and hair follicles surrounding burn wounds. The molecular mechanisms of skin repigmentation following healing of burn injuries includes the differentiation of melanoblasts into melanocytes, the distribution and responses of melanocytes and melanocyte stem cells after burn injury, and the regulation of melanin production. We also reviewed advanced therapeutic strategies to treat pigmentation disorders, such as convectional surgery, laser, UV treatment and emerging concepts in skin tissue-engineering.

Skin whitening agents: medicinal chemistry perspective of tyrosinase inhibitors

Melanogenesis is a process to synthesize melanin, which is a primary responsible for the pigmentation of human skin, eye and hair. Although numerous enzymatic catalyzed and chemical reactions are involved in melanogenesis process, the enzymes such as tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1) and TRP-2 played a major role in melanin synthesis. Specifically, tyrosinase is a key enzyme, which catalyzes a rate-limiting step of the melanin synthesis, and the downregulation of tyrosinase is the most prominent approach for the development of melanogenesis inhibitors. Therefore, numerous inhibitors that target tyrosinase have been developed in recent years. The review focuses on the recent discovery of tyrosinase inhibitors that are directly involved in the inhibition of tyrosinase catalytic activity and functionality from all sources, including laboratory synthetic methods, natural products, virtual screening and structure-based molecular docking studies.

Structural and kinetic considerations on the catalysis of deoxyarbutin by tyrosinase

Deoxyarbutin, a potent inhibitor of tyrosinase, could act as substrate of the enzyme. Oxytyrosinase is able to hydroxylate deoxyarbutin and finishes the catalytic cycle by oxidizing the formed o-diphenol to quinone, while the enzyme becomes deoxytyrosinase, which evolves to oxytyrosinase in the presence of oxygen. This compound is the only one described that does not release o-diphenol after the hydroxylation step. Oxytyrosinase hydroxylates the deoxyarbutin in ortho position of the phenolic hydroxyl group by means of an aromatic electrophilic substitution. As the oxygen orbitals and the copper atoms are not coplanar, but in axial/equatorial position, the concerted oxidation/reduction cannot occur and the release of a copper atom to bind again in coplanar position, enabling the oxidation/reduction or release of the o-diphenol from the active site to the medium. In the case of deoxyarbutin, the o-diphenol formed is repulsed by the water due to its hydrophobicity, and so can bind correctly and be oxidized to a quinone before being released. Deoxyarbutin has been characterized with: [Formula: see text] = 1.95 ± 0.06 s-1 and [Formula: see text] = 33 ± 4 μM. Computational simulations of the interaction of β-arbutin, deoxyarbutin and their o-diphenol products with tyrosinase show how these ligands bind at the copper centre of tyrosinase. The presence of an energy barrier in the release of the o-diphenol product of deoxyarbutin, which is not present in the case of β-arbutin, together with the differences in polarity and, consequently differences in their interaction with water help understand the differences in the kinetic behaviour of both compounds. Therefore, it is proposed that the release of the o-diphenol product of deoxyarbutin from the active site might be slower than in the case of β-arbutin, contributing to its oxidation to a quinone before being released from the protein into the water phase.

Skin hyperpigmentation treatment using herbs: A review of clinical evidences

Hyperpigmentation of skin is caused by several factors. UV exposure, in addition to oxidative stress, elevates inflammatory mediators stimulating melanogenesis. Herbal-derived compounds for improving skin lightness are gaining interest as they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than fully synthetic products. This review briefly addresses the causes of skin hyperpigmentation and extensively summarizes the status of herbs currently used in skin-lightening cosmetics. The properties of active compounds and their dose rate information are summarized where available, along with human or animal relevant models for activity testing. This review will be of value to cosmetic formulators and dermatologists who are searching for naturally derived ingredients for improving skin lightness, in line with consumer preference and expectations.

Action of 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone in the biosynthesis pathway of melanin

2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (Uvinul D50), a sunscreen used in cosmetics, has two effects in the melanin biosynthesis pathway. On the one hand, it acts a weak inhibitor of tyrosinase and on the other, it accelerates the conversion of dopachrome to melanin. Uvinul D50 was seen to behave as a weak competitive inhibitor: apparent constant inhibition=2.02±0.09mM and IC50=3.82±0.39mM established in this work. These values are higher than those in the bibliography, which tend to be undersetimated. This discrepancy could be explained by the reaction of Uvinul D50 with the dopachrome produced from l-tyrosine or l-dopa, which would interfere in the measurement. Based on studies of its docking to tyrosinase, it seems that Uvinul D50 interacts with the active site of the enzyme (oxytyrosinase) both in its protonated and deprotonated forms (pKa=7). However, it cannot be hydroxylated, meaning that it acts as a weak inhibitor, not as an alternative substrate, despite its resorcinol structure. Uvinul D50 can be used as sunscreen, in low concentrations without significant adverse effects on melanogenesis.

4-n-butylresorcinol enhances proteolytic degradation of tyrosinase in B16F10 melanoma cells

OBJECTIVE

4-n-butylresorcinol is a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase and has been used as an antimelanogenic agent. However, its inhibition mechanism in intact cells is not fully understood. To elucidate the cellular mechanism, we compared in vitro and in vivo inhibitory effects of 4-n-butylresorcinol on tyrosinase activity.

METHODS

B16F10 melanoma cells were cultured in media containing α-MSH in the presence or absence of 4-n-butylresorcinol. Tyrosinase mRNA levels, protein levels and activity in B16F10 cells were compared by real-time PCR, immunostaining combined with western blot and colorimetric analysis, respectively. Melanin concentration was measured by colorimetry both in the cells and in the media. Tyrosinase glycosylation and proteolytic degradation were analysed by immunoblotting after cells were treated with Endo H/PNGase F and E64/proteasome inhibitors, respectively.

RESULTS

4-n-butylresorcinol inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis more effectively in intact cells than in cell lysates. Western blotting and real-time RT-PCR showed that 4-n-butylresorcinol reduced protein levels, but not mRNA levels, of tyrosinase in B16F10 cells. 4-n-butylresorcinol showed no effect on the processing of tyrosinase glycosylation or on trafficking to melanosomes. However, treatment of B16F10 cells with E64 or proteasome inhibitor abrogated the 4-n-butylresorcinol-induced decrease of tyrosinase. Moreover, 4-n-butylresorcinol activated p38 MAPK, resulting in increased ubiquitination of tyrosinase.

CONCLUSION

4-n-butylresorcinol inhibits melanogenesis by enhancing proteolytic degradation of tyrosinase as well as competitive binding to tyrosinase. These findings will help to develop new, effective and safe chemicals for the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders.

Characterization of the action of tyrosinase on resorcinols

The action of tyrosinase on resorcinol and some derivatives (4-ethylresorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 4-methylresorcinol) was investigated. If the catalytic cycle is completed with a reductant such as ascorbic acid or an o-diphenol such as 4-tert-butylcatechol, these compounds act as substrates of tyrosinase in all cases. The reaction can also be carried out, adding hydrogen peroxide to the medium. All the above compounds were characterized as substrates of the enzyme and their kinetic constants, KM (Michaelis constant) and kcat (catalytic constant) were determined. Measurement of the activity of the enzyme after pre-incubation with resorcinol, 4-ethylresorcinol or 4-methylresorcinol points to an apparent loss of activity at short times, which could correspond to an enzymatic inactivation process. However, if the measurements are extended over longer times, a burst is observed and the enzymatic activity is recovered, demonstrating that these compounds are not suicide substrates of the enzyme. These effects are not observed with 2-methylresorcinol. The docking results indicate that the binding of met-tyrosinase with these resorcinols occurs in the same way, but not with 2-methylresorcinol, due to steric hindrance.

Action of ellagic acid on the melanin biosynthesis pathway

BACKGROUND

Tyrosinase is an enzyme involved in the first steps of the melanogenesis process. It catalyzes the hydroxylation of monophenols to o-diphenols and the oxidation of the latter to o-quinones. Ellagic acid (EA) is a phenolic compound which has been described as a tyrosinase inhibitor and is used in the cosmetic industry as a whitening agent. However, it has hydroxyl groups in ortho position and could act as a substrate rather than inhibitor. This aspect should be taken into consideration when using this compound as a cosmetic ingredient due to the reactive character of o-quinones.

OBJECTIVE

To determine whether ellagic acid is a substrate or an inhibitor of tyrosinase, to characterize it kinetically and interpret its role in the melanogenesis process.

METHODS

UV-vis spectrophotometry was used to follow the action of tyrosinase on typical substrates and ellagic acid. A chronometric method was chosen for the kinetic characterization of ellagic acid.

RESULTS

Ellagic acid is not an inhibitor per se but an alternative substrate of tyrosinase. It is oxidized by the enzyme to an unstable o-quinone. Its kinetic characterization provided low Michaelis and catalytic constants (KM(EA)=138±13μM and kcat(EA)=0.47±0.02s(-1)). Furthermore, ellagic acid, which is a powerful antioxidant, may chemically reduce the o-quinones (o-dopaquinone) and semiquinones, in this way inhibiting the melanogenesis.

CONCLUSION

Ellagic acid is oxidized by tyrosinase, producing reactive o-quinones. As an antioxidant it can inhibit the melanogenesis process. This first aspect should be taken into consideration in its application as a cosmetic ingredient due to the toxicity of o-quinones and its ability to modify the redox status of the cell.

Inorganic layered double hydroxides as a 4-hexyl resorcinol delivery system for topical applications

In this study, the hydrophobic even skin tone active, 4-hexylresorcinol is intercalated into a Zn–Al layered double hydroxide by co-precipitation method and used as controlled release ingredient in a skin care formulation.

Tyrosinase-Catalyzed Hydroxylation of 4-Hexylresorcinol, an Antibrowning and Depigmenting Agent: A Kinetic Study

4-Hexylresorcinol (HR) is a compound used in the food and cosmetic industries as an antibrowning and lightening agent. Its use is mainly attributed to its inhibitory effect on the enzyme tyrosinase. However, the enzyme hydroxylates HR to an o-diphenol, which it then oxidizes to an o-quinone, which rapidly isomerizes to p-quinone. For tyrosinase to act in this way, the Eox form (oxy-tyrosinase) must be present in the reaction medium, which can be brought about by (a) hydrogen peroxide, (b) ascorbic acid, or (c) catalytic concentrations of o-diphenol and a reductant (NADH) to maintain it constant. This work demonstrates that HR is a substrate of tyrosinase and proposes a mechanism for its action. Its kinetic characterization provides a catalytic constant of 0.85 ± 0.04 s(-1) and a Michaelis constant of 60.31 ± 6.73 μM.

Fermented broth in tyrosinase- and melanogenesis inhibition

Fermented broth has a long history of applications in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Recently, the use of fermented broth in skin care products is in ascendance. This review investigates the efficacy of fermented broth in inhibiting tyrosinase and melanogenesis. Possible active ingredients and hypopigmentation mechanisms of fermented broth are discussed, and potential applications of fermented broth in the cosmetic industry are also addressed.