Fungi—an unusual source for cosmetics

Mushroom oils: A review of their production, composition, and potential applications

This review delves into the world of mushroom oils, highlighting their production, composition, and versatile applications. Despite mushrooms' overall low lipid content, their fatty acid composition, rich in essential fatty acids like linoleic acid and oleic acid, proves nutritionally significant. Variations in fatty acid profiles across mushroom species and the prevalence of unsaturated fats contribute to their cardiovascular health benefits. The exploration extends to mushroom essential oils, revealing diverse volatile compounds through extraction methods like hydrodistillation and solvent-assisted flavor evaporation (SAFE). The identification of 1-octen-3-ol as a key contributor to the distinct "mushroom flavor" adds a nuanced perspective. The focus broadens to applications, encompassing culinary and industrial uses with techniques like cold pressing and supercritical fluid extraction (SFE). Mushroom oils, with their unique nutritional and flavor profiles, enhance gastronomic experiences. Non-food applications in cosmetics and biofuels underscore the oils' versatility. The nutritional composition, enriched with essential fatty acids, bioactive compositions, and trace elements, is explored for potential health benefits. Bioactive compounds such as phenolic compounds and terpenes contribute to antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, positioning mushroom oils as nutritional powerhouses. In short, this concise review synthesizes the intricate world of mushroom oils, emphasizing their nutritional significance, extraction methodologies, and potential health benefits. The comprehensive overview underscores mushroom oils as a promising area for further exploration and utilization. The characteristics of mushroom biomass oil for the use in various industries are influenced by the mushroom species, chemical composition, biochemical synthesis of mushroom, and downstream processes including extraction, purification and characterization. Therefore, further research and exploration need to be done to achieve a circular bioeconomy with the integration of SDGs, waste reduction, and economic stimulation, to fully utilize the benefits of mushroom, a valuable gift of nature.

Natural Compounds of Fungal Origin with Antimicrobial Activity-Potential Cosmetics Applications

The phenomenon of drug resistance in micro-organisms necessitates the search for new compounds capable of combating them. Fungi emerge as a promising source of such compounds as they produce a wide range of secondary metabolites with bacteriostatic or fungistatic activity. These compounds can serve as alternatives for commonly used antibiotics. Furthermore, fungi also accumulate compounds with antiviral activity. This review focuses on filamentous fungi and macrofungi as sources of antimicrobial compounds. The article describes both individual isolated compounds and extracts that exhibit antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral activity. These compounds are produced by the fruiting bodies and mycelium, as well as the biomass of mycelial cultures. Additionally, this review characterizes the chemical compounds extracted from mushrooms used in the realm of cosmetology; specifically, their antimicrobial activity.

Potential application of natural bioactive compounds as skin-whitening agents: A review

BACKGROUND

Melanin is a skin pigment that gives color to the skin, hair, and eyes. The accumulation or over production of melanin can lead to aesthetic problems as well as serious diseases associated with hyperpigmentation. Skin lightening is described as the procedure of using natural or synthetic products to lighten the skin tone or provide an even skin complexion by reducing the amount of melanin in the skin; therefore, skin lightening products help people to treat their skin problems. Ingredients such as hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, and retinoic acid were used as whitening agents to lighten the skin. However, they have many adverse effects on the skin and body health, such as skin irritation.

AIM

In this review, firstly, discuss on the directly/indirectly target melanogenesis-related signal pathways. Secondly, summarize potential natural bioactive ingredients with skin lightening properties from plants, marine organisms, microorganisms. Finally, the remaining problems and future challenges are also discussed.

METHODS

For relevant literature, a literature search was conducted using Google Scholar and Web of Science. Natural bioactive compounds, tyrosinase inhibitors, and other related topics were researched and evaluated.

RESULTS

Natural products isolated from plant and animal resources are potential active cosmetic candidates for lightening the skin tone and skin whitening and protection against UV irradiation. Natural bioactive ingredients as cosmetic whitening additives have attracted increasingly attention due to their safety and cost effectiveness, with few side effects.

CONCLUSION

Although natural active substances have been advocated for use in whitening cosmetics in recent years, there are still many challenges due to the fact that traditional inhibitors are used perennial in cosmetics which cannot be easily changed and the research on natural active substances is still in its infancy. In the future, by improving the extraction technique of natural extracts, it is achieved to give a qualitative and quantitative analysis of the active ingredients of the extracts, to determine the effect of the active components of action, and to find the substances that have the best possible whitening effect in natural organisms.

Assessment of Cosmetic Properties and Safety of Use of Model Washing Gels with Reishi, Maitake and Lion's Mane Extracts

Natural cosmetics are becoming more and more popular every day. For this reason, this work investigates the properties of mushroom extracts, which are not as widely used in the cosmetics industry as plant ingredients. Water extracts of Grifolafrondosa (Maitake), Hericiumerinaceus (Lion's Mane) and Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) were tested for their antioxidant properties, bioactive substances content, skin cell toxicity, ability to limit TEWL, effect on skin hydration and pH, and skin irritation. Our research showed that Maitake extract contained the highest amount of flavonoids and phenols, and also showed the most effective scavenging of DPPH and ABTS radicals as well as Chelation of Fe2+ and FRAP radicals, which were 39.84% and 82.12% in a concentration of 1000 µg/mL, respectively. All tested extracts did not increase the amount of ROS in fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The addition of mushroom extracts to washing gels reduced the irritating effect on skin, and reduced the intracellular production of free radicals, compared with the cosmetic base. Moreover, it was shown that the analyzedcosmetics had a positive effect on the pH and hydration of the skin, and reduced TEWL.

Current Insight into Traditional and Modern Methods in Fungal Diversity Estimates

Fungi are an important and diverse component in various ecosystems. The methods to identify different fungi are an important step in any mycological study. Classical methods of fungal identification, which rely mainly on morphological characteristics and modern use of DNA based molecular techniques, have proven to be very helpful to explore their taxonomic identity. In the present compilation, we provide detailed information on estimates of fungi provided by different mycologistsover time. Along with this, a comprehensive analysis of the importance of classical and molecular methods is also presented. In orderto understand the utility of genus and species specific markers in fungal identification, a polyphasic approach to investigate various fungi is also presented in this paper. An account of the study of various fungi based on culture-based and cultureindependent methods is also provided here to understand the development and significance of both approaches. The available information on classical and modern methods compiled in this study revealed that the DNA based molecular studies are still scant, and more studies are required to achieve the accurate estimation of fungi present on earth.

Supercritical CO2 Plant Extracts Show Antifungal Activities against Crop-Borne Fungi

Fungal infections of cultivated food crops result in extensive losses of crops at the global level, while resistance to antifungal agents continues to grow. Supercritical fluid extraction using CO₂ (SFE-CO₂) has gained attention as an environmentally well-accepted extraction method, as CO₂ is a non-toxic, inert and available solvent, and the extracts obtained are, chemically, of greater or different complexities compared to those of conventional extracts. The SFE-CO₂ extracts of Achillea millefolium, Calendula officinalis, Chamomilla recutita, Helichrysum arenarium, Humulus lupulus, Taraxacum officinale, Juniperus communis, Hypericum perforatum, Nepeta cataria, Crataegus sp. and Sambucus nigra were studied in terms of their compositions and antifungal activities against the wheat- and buckwheat-borne fungi Alternaria alternata, Epicoccum nigrum, Botrytis cinerea, Fusarium oxysporum and Fusarium poae. The C. recutita and H. arenarium extracts were the most efficacious, and these inhibited the growth of most of the fungi by 80% to 100%. Among the fungal species, B. cinerea was the most susceptible to the treatments with the SFE-CO₂ extracts, while Fusarium spp. were the least. This study shows that some of these SFE-CO₂ extracts have promising potential for use as antifungal agents for selected crop-borne fungi.

Proteins and polysaccharides from vegetative mycelium of medicinal basidiomycete Lentinus edodes display cytotoxicity towards human and animal cancer cell lines

Detection and study of biologically active compounds seems a promising area of research in cancer diagnostics and therapies. The glycoprotein and polysaccharide fractions showing high cytotoxicity towards several human and animal cancer cell lines: A549, Hep-2, HeLa, С6 and SPEV-2 were isolated from basidiomycete Lentinus edodes vegetative mycelium and fruiting body and further characterized. It was found that water-soluble glycoprotein fractions caused the most significant, 70-100% inhibition of metabolic activity of SPЕV-2, А549 and С6 cell lines. The effective concentrations of glycoprotein fractions reducing the viability of cancer cell lines were determined. The protein and subunit composition of fractions was studied; the highly active galactose-specific lectins were found to be present in these fractions. Comparative analysis of transcriptomes of L. edodes vegetative mycelium, fruiting body and primordium revealed the presence of carbohydrate-binding glycoproteins (lectins) specific for each stage of basidiomycete morphogenesis. Histological examination revealed some morphological indicators of immune system activation and the absence of toxic effect on gastro-intestinal mucosa of animals at peroral administration of fungal glycoprotein fractions. Fungal protein and, in particular, lectin preparations derived from L. еdodes vegetative mycelium might be considered as novel prospective tools in cancer diagnostics and therapies.

Collection and Characterization of Wood Decay Fungal Strains for Developing Pure Mycelium Mats

Wood decay fungi (WDF) seem to be particularly suitable for developing myco-materials due to their mycelial texture, ease of cultivation, and lack of sporification. This study focused on a collection of WDF strains that were later used to develop mycelium mats of leather-like materials. Twenty-one WDF strains were chosen based on the color, homogeneity, and consistency of the mycelia. The growth rate of each strain was measured. To improve the consistency and thickness of the mats, an exclusive method (newly patented) was developed. The obtained materials and the corresponding pure mycelia grown in liquid culture were analyzed by both thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to evaluate the principal components and texture. TGA provided a semi-quantitative indication on the mycelia and mat composition, but it was hardly able to discriminate differences in the production process (liquid culture versus patented method). SEM provided keen insight on the mycelial microstructure as well as that of the mat without considering the composition; however, it was able to determine the hyphae and porosity dimensions. Although not exhaustive, TGA and SEM are complementary methods that can be used to characterize fungal strains based on their desirable features for various applications in bio-based materials. Taking all of the results into account, the Fomitopsis iberica strain seems to be the most suitable for the development of leather-like materials.

Fatty acid secretion by the white rot fungus, Trametes versicolor

Fungi can acquire and store nutrients through decomposing and converting organic matter into fatty acids. This research demonstrates for the first time that the white-rot fungus Trametes versicolor has the ability to secrete extracellular droplets which can contain a high concentration of long chain fatty acids and unsaturated fatty acids as well as monosaccharides and polysaccharides. The concentration and composition of the fatty acids varied according to the age of the droplet and the feedstock used for growth of the fungi. The results raise the possibility that these droplets could be harvested offering a new approach for the microbial generation of oil from waste.

Ganoderma lucidum (Reishi) an edible mushroom; a comprehensive and critical review of its nutritional, cosmeceutical, mycochemical, pharmacological, clinical, and toxicological properties

Reishi owes an exceptional value in nutritional, cosmeceutical, and medical treatments; however, none of the studies has provided its future-driven critical assessment. This study documents an up-to-date review (2015-2020, wherever applicable) and provide valuable insights (preclinical and clinical evidence-based) with comprehensive and critical assessments. Various databases 'Google scholar', 'Web of Science', 'ScienceDirect', 'PubMed', 'Springer Link', books, theses, and library resources were used. The taxonomic chaos of G. lucidum and its related species was discussed in detail with solution-oriented emphasis. Reishi contains polysaccharides (α/β-D-glucans), alkaloids, triterpenoids (ganoderic acids, ganoderenic acids, ganoderol, ganoderiol, lucidenic acids), sterols/ergosterol, proteins (LZ-8, LZ-9), nucleosides (adenosine, inosine, uridine), and nucleotides (guanine, adenine). Some active drugs are explored at an optimum level to make them potential drug candidates. The pharmacological potential was observed in diabetes, inflammation, epilepsy, neurodegeneration, cancer, anxiety, sedation, cardiac diseases, depression, hepatic diseases, and immune disorders; however, most of the studies are preclinical with a number of drawbacks. In particular, quality clinical data are intensely needed to support pharmacological activities for human use. The presence of numerous micro-, macro, and trace elements imparts an essential nutritional and cosmeceutical value to Reishi, and various marketed products are available already, but the clinical studies regarding safety and efficacy, interactions with foods/drinks, chronic use, teratogenicity, mutagenicity, and genotoxicity are missing for Reishi. Reishi possesses many valuable pharmacological activities, and the number of patents and clinical trials is increasing for Reishi. Yet, a gap in research exists for Reishi, which is discussed in detail in the forthcoming sections.

Potential Usage of Edible Mushrooms and Their Residues to Retrieve Valuable Supplies for Industrial Applications

Currently, the food and agricultural sectors are concerned about environmental problems caused by raw material waste, and they are looking for strategies to reduce the growing amount of waste disposal. Now, approaches are being explored that could increment and provide value-added products from agricultural waste to contribute to the circular economy and environmental protection. Edible mushrooms have been globally appreciated for their medicinal properties and nutritional value, but during the mushroom production process nearly one-fifth of the mushroom gets wasted. Therefore, improper disposal of mushrooms and untreated residues can cause fungal disease. The residues of edible mushrooms, being rich in sterols, vitamin D2, amino acids, and polysaccharides, among others, makes it underutilized waste. Most of the published literature has primarily focused on the isolation of bioactive components of these edible mushrooms; however, utilization of waste or edible mushrooms themselves, for the production of value-added products, has remained an overlooked area. Waste of edible mushrooms also represents a disposal problem, but they are a rich source of important compounds, owing to their nutritional and functional properties. Researchers have started exploiting edible mushroom by-products/waste for value-added goods with applications in diverse fields. Bioactive compounds obtained from edible mushrooms are being used in media production and skincare formulations. Furthermore, diverse applications from edible mushrooms are also being explored, including the synthesis of biosorbent, biochar, edible films/coating, probiotics, nanoparticles and cosmetic products. The primary intent of this review is to summarize the information related to edible mushrooms and their valorization in developing value-added products with industrial applications.

Mycelial culture extracts of selected wood-decay mushrooms as a source of skin-protecting factors

OBJECTIVES

This study analyzed the content of substances with cosmetologic properties in the extracts obtained from the mycelial cultures of Ganoderma applanatum, Laetiporus sulphureus, and Trametes versicolor. The effect of these extracts on the inhibition of tyrosinase and hyaluronidase was determined, and their values of sun protection factor (SPF) were calculated.

RESULTS

The total amount of phenolic acids in the extracts ranged from 2.69 (G. applanatum) to 10.30 mg/100 g dry weight (T. versicolor). The total amount of sterols was estimated at 48.40 (T. versicolor) to 201.04 mg/100 g dry weight (L. sulphureus), and that of indoles at 2.90 (G. applanatum) to 16.74 mg/100 dry weight (L. sulphureus). Kojic acid was determined in the extracts of L. sulphureus and G. applanatum. It was observed that L. sulphureus extract caused dose-dependent inhibition of hyaluronidase, while all the extracts inhibited tyrosinase. The extract of G. applanatum exhibited an SPF value of ~ 9.

CONCLUSIONS

The results showed that the mycelial cultures of the studied species may be used as an alternative source of substances used in cosmetology.

In silico and in vitro design of cordycepin encapsulation in liposomes for colon cancer treatment

Cordycepin or 3'-deoxyadenosine is an interesting anti-cancer drug candidate that is found in abundance in the fungus Cordyceps militaris. It inhibits cellular growth of many cancers including lung carcinoma, melanoma, bladder cancer, and colon cancer by inducing apoptosis, anti-proliferation, anti-metastasis and by arresting the cell cycle. Cordycepin has, however, poor stability and low solubility in water, resulting in loss of its bioactivity. Liposomes can be used to overcome these obstacles. Our aim is to improve cordycepin's anti-colon cancer activity by liposome encapsulation. Cordycepin-encapsulated liposomes were designed and fabricated based on a combination of theoretical and experimental studies. Molecular dynamics (MD) simulations and free energy calculations suggest that phosphatidylcholine (PC) lipid environment is favorable for cordycepin adsorption. Cordycepin passively permeates into PC lipid bilayers without membrane damage and strongly binds to the lipids' polar groups by flipping its deoxyribose sugar toward the bilayer center. Our fabricated liposomes containing 10 : 1 molar ratio of egg yolk PC : cholesterol showed encapsulation efficiency (%EE) of 99% using microfluidic hydrodynamic focusing (MHF) methods. In our in vitro study using the HT-29 colon cancer cell line, cordycepin was able to inhibit growth by induction of apoptosis. Cell viability was significantly decreased below 50% at 125 μg mL-1 dosage after 48 h treatment with non-encapsulated and encapsulated cordycepin. Importantly, encapsulation provided (1) a 2-fold improvement in the inhibition of cancer cell growth at 125 μg mL-1 dosage and (2) 4-fold increase in release time. These in silico and in vitro studies indicate that cordycepin-encapsulated liposomes could be a potent drug candidate for colon cancer therapy.

Review on Auricularia auricula-judae as a Functional Food: Growth, Chemical Composition, and Biological Activities

Although the application of Auricularia auricula-judae (AAJ) for health purposes has a long tradition in Asia, there is a lack of research on the functional nutrition of AAJ; the current research focused on polysaccharides has been too unitary compared to other mushrooms in recent years. Identification, extraction, and large-scale production of biologically active substances have emerged as critical determinants that determine AAJ becoming a functional food. AAJ is being treated in a restrained manner, despite having significant potential as a drug or a source of pure bioactive substances. Functional ingredients of mushrooms and AAJ have emerged as a new impetus for researchers interested in developing functional foods. This review presents an overview of current studies relevant to nutrition and the application of AAJ. The physiological conditions of AAJ and the corresponding functional ingredients beneficial to human health are reviewed to better understand the function and mechanisms of different nutrient contents. Relevant methods for evaluating the efficiency of extraction are also summarized. Finally, current limitations and the future scope for functional ingredients of AAJ are identified and discussed.

Taxonomy, Diversity and Cultivation of the Oudemansielloid/Xeruloid Taxa Hymenopellis, Mucidula, Oudemansiella, and Xerula with Respect to Their Bioactivities: A Review

The oudemansielloid/xeruloid taxa Hymenopellis, Mucidula, Oudemansiella, and Xerula are genera of Basidiomycota that constitute an important resource of bioactive compounds. Numerous studies have shown antimicrobial, anti-oxidative, anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory and other bioactivities of their extracts. The bioactive principles can be divided into two major groups: (a) hydrophilic polysaccharides with relatively high molecular weights and (b) low molecular medium polar secondary metabolites, such as the antifungal strobilurins. In this review, we summarize the state of the art on biodiversity, cultivation of the fungi and bioactivities of their secondary metabolites and discuss future applications. Although the strobilurins are well-documented, with commercial applications as agrochemical fungicides, there are also other known compounds from this group that have not yet been well-studied. Polysaccharides, dihydro-citrinone phenol A acid, scalusamides, and acetylenic lactones such as xerulin, also have potential applications in the nutraceutical, pharmaceutical and medicinal market and should be further explored. Further studies are recommended to isolate high quality bioactive compounds and fully understand their modes of action. Given that only few species of oudemansielloid/xeruloid mushrooms have been explored for their production of secondary metabolites, these taxa represent unexplored sources of potentially useful and novel bioactive metabolites.

Assessment of Cosmeceutical Potentials of Selected Mushroom Fruitbody Extracts Through Evaluation of Antioxidant, Anti-Hyaluronidase and Anti-Tyrosinase Activity

Cosmeceutical formulations containing naturally derived active ingredients are currently preferred by consumers worldwide. Mushrooms are one of the potential sources for cosmeceutical ingredients but relevant research is still lacking. In this study, hot- and cold-water extractions were performed on four locally-cultivated mushrooms—Pleurotus ostreatus, Ganoderma lucidum, Auricularia polytricha and Schizophyllum commune—with the aim to assess the cosmeceutical potential of these mushroom fruitbody extracts. Total phenolics, polysaccharide and glucan content were determined. Antioxidant property of the mushroom extracts was assessed by determining the DPPH radical scavenging, ferric-reducing (FRAP) and superoxide anion (SOA) scavenging activity. Anti-hyaluronidase activity was used as an indicator for the anti-aging and anti-inflammatory property, while anti-tyrosinase activity was evaluated to assess the anti-pigmentation or whitening property of these extracts. Our results showed that total polysaccharide content of P. ostreatus extracts was the highest (235.8–253.6 mg GE/g extract), while extracts from G. lucidum contained the lowest glucan (10.12–10.67%). Cold-water extract from S. commune exhibited substantial tyrosinase inhibition activity (98.15%) and SOA scavenging activity (94.82%). The greatest hyaluronidase activity was exhibited by G. lucidum hot-water extract, with the value of 72.78%. The findings from the correlation analyses suggest that the cosmeceutical properties of these mushrooms can be attributed mainly to the combination of different types of compound such as polysaccharides and phenolics. Overall, cold-water extract of S. commune and hot-water extract of G. lucidum showed the best results and may be further investigated.

M. B. Morais A, Freitas AC, C. F. R. Ferreira I, Pintado M. Valorization of Mushroom By-Products as a Source of Value-Added Compounds and Potential Applications

Nowadays, the food sector is highly concerned with environmental issues and foreseen to develop strategies to reduce waste and losses resulting from activities developed in the food system. An approach is to increment added value to the agro-industrial wastes, which might provide economic growth and environmental protection, contributing to a circular economy. Mushroom by-products represent a disposal problem, but they are also promising sources of important compounds, which may be used due to their functional and nutritional properties. Research has been developed in different fields to obtain value added solutions for the by-products generated during mushroom production and processing. Bioactive compounds have been obtained and applied in the development of nutraceutical and pharmaceutical formulations. Additionally, other applications have been explored and include animal feed, fertilizer, bioremediation, energy production, bio-based materials, cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. The main purpose of this review is to highlight the relevant composition of mushroom by-products and discuss their potential as a source of functional compounds and other applications. Future research needs to explore pilot and industrial scale extraction methods to understand the technological feasibility and the economic sustainability of the bioactive compounds extraction and valorization towards different applications.

Marine-Derived Compounds with Potential Use as Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs).

The Role of Bioactive Compounds and other Metabolites from Mushrooms against Skin Disorders- A Systematic Review Assessing their Cosmeceutical and Nutricosmetic Outcomes

Bioactive compounds derived from mushrooms have been shown to present promising potential as cosmeceutical or nutricosmetic ingredients. Scientific data reviewed herein showed that extracts prepared from medicinal and edible mushrooms and their individual metabolites presented antiinflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, and anticollagenase activities. These metabolites can be utilised as ingredients to suppress the severity of Inflammatory Skin Diseases, offer photoprotection to the skin, and correct Hyperpigmentation. However, studies regarding the molecular mechanism behind the mentioned bioactivities are still lacking. Challenges associated with the use of mushroom extracts and their associated metabolites as cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic ingredients include several steps from the fruiting bodies to the final product: extraction optimization, estimation of the efficacy and safety claims, the use of micro and nanocarriers to allow for controlled release and the pros and cons associated with the use of extracts vs individual compounds. This systematic review highlights that mushrooms contain diverse biomolecules that can be sustainably used in the development of nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations. Reports regarding stability, compatibility, and safety assessment, but also toxicological studies are still needed to be considered. Furthermore, some of the constraints and limitations hindering the development of this type of ingredients still require long-term studies to achieve major breakthroughs.

Ganoderma proteins and their potential applications in cosmetics

Ganoderma have been regarded as a traditional source of natural bioactive compounds for centuries and have recently been exploited for potential components in the cosmetics industry. Besides Ganoderma polysaccharides and triterpenes, multiple proteins have been found in Ganoderma. With the in-depth study of these proteins, various pharmacological functions of Ganoderma have become important in the discovery and development of new products. In the review, we summarized and discussed the kinds and characteristics of Ganoderma proteins, especially on fungal immunomodulatory proteins (FIPs) which can be potentially developed into cosmeceuticals or nutricosmetics and are a suitable target for production using established biotechnological methods. Furthermore, we discuss their pharmacological activities of the proteins with a focus on their pharmacological functions related to cosmetics, such as antioxidant activity, inhibition of melanin, antibacterial activity, and regulation of inflammatory mediators. Numerous other questions also are addressed before the proteins can be widely accepted and used as cosmetic additives.

Nutricosmetics: A brief overview

The nutricosmetics are products and ingredients that act as nutritional supplements to care skin, nails, and hair natural beauty. They work from the inside to promote beauty from within. Nutricosmetic is the latest trend in the beauty industry. This tendency rapidly gained many followers because it fits with the modern culture: Today, consumers are very careful with the food that they introduce into their body, and there is also an increasing demand for natural products able to enhance one's health and beauty without side effects and significant traction before use. However, many nutricosmetic products are considered effective due to the historical use and word of mouth. Comprehensive analysis of the global nutricosmetics market is conducted considering form, end-user applications, and some product components such as collagen, peptides, proteins, vitamins, carotenes, minerals, and omega-3 fatty acid are reported. Plant extract ingredients used in nutricosmetic are also described.

Eminence of Microbial Products in Cosmetic Industry

Cosmetology is the developing branch of science, having direct impact on the society. The cosmetic sector is interested in finding novel biological alternatives which can enhance the product attributes as well as it can substitute chemical compounds. Many of the compounds are having biological origin and are acquire from bacteria, fungi, and algae. A range of biological compounds, like bio-surfactant, vitamins, antioxidants, pigments, enzymes, peptides have promising features and beneficial properties. Moreover, these products can be produced commercially with ease. The review will encompass the importance and use of microbial compounds for new cosmetic formulations as well as products associated with it.

Agaricus blazei Murrill from Brazil: an ingredient for nutraceutical and cosmeceutical applications

Operations for sorting mushrooms at the industrial level usually generate large amounts of bio-residues not conforming to strict morphological criteria for commercial purposes, even though their biological content is not compromised. In this context, the present work aimed at evaluating the potential for reutilizing industrially discarded Agaricus blazei Murill (ABM). Thus, the content of essential nutrients and the chemical composition were determined, and MTT and LDH assays were used to evaluate the viability and cell death of Caco-2 and HT29 cell lines of an ethanolic extract prepared from ABM (preliminary safety tests for nutraceutical applications). The extract was incorporated into a semi-solid base cosmetic cream and cell viability effects of the extract, and of the final cream formulation, on a keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) were studied (preliminary safety tests for cosmeceutical applications). Essential nutrients, such as proteins and carbohydrates, and a low fat content were determined for ABM. Twenty-two fatty acids were detected, with polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) (∼53%) being the most abundant fraction. The cell viabilities of Caco-2 and HT29 cells were maintained up to 100 μg mL-1. After incorporation into the base cream, a formulation with a pale yellow colour and favourable pH was obtained. The cell viability of HaCaT cells in the presence of the extract and the final cream formulation was maintained in a concentration dependent manner, which indicates the safety of this extract for cosmeceutical applications. The results suggest that ABM residues can be used as an inexpensive and sustainable source of nutraceutical and cosmeceutical ingredients.

Terrestrial Microorganisms: Cell Factories of Bioactive Molecules with Skin Protecting Applications

It is well known that terrestrial environments host an immense microbial biodiversity. Exposed to different types of stress, such as UV radiation, temperature fluctuations, water availability and the inter- / intra-specific competition for resources, terrestrial microorganisms have been evolved to produce a large spectrum of bioactive molecules. Bacteria, archaea, protists, fungi and algae have shown a high potential of producing biomolecules for pharmaceutical or other industrial purposes as they combine a sustainable, relatively low-cost and fast-production process. Herein, we provide an overview of the different bioactive molecules produced by terrestrial microorganisms with skin protecting applications. The high content in polyphenolic and carotenoid compounds produced by several strains, as well as the presence of exopolysaccharides, melanins, indole and pyrrole derivatives, mycosporines, carboxylic acids and other molecules, are discussed in the context of their antioxidant, photo-protective and skin-whitening activity. Relevant biotechnological tools developed for the enhanced production of high added value natural products, as well as the protecting effect of some antioxidant, hydrolytic and degrading enzymes are also discussed. Furthermore, we describe classes of microbial compounds that are used or have the potential to be used as antimicrobials, moisturizers, biosurfactants, pigments, flavorings and fragrances.

Inonotus obliquus Extract as An Inhibitor of α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Mouse Melanoma Cells

Melanogenesis is a biosynthetic pathway that produces the pigment melanin in human skin. The catalyzation of the key enzyme tyrosinase is the first step in melanogenesis, and the downregulation of tyrosinase enzyme activity is the most reported method for inhibiting melanogenesis. Hyperpigmentation is an important issue in the cosmetic industry, and there is great demand for melanogenesis inhibitors. In the present study, we demonstrated the anti-melanogenic effect of Inonotus obliquus in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 mouse melanoma cells and identified it as a new melanogenesis inhibitor. Comparing the B16F10 cells treated with the control and the Inonotus obliquus extract, we identified the melanin contents, mRNA and protein expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase activity, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (Mitf) activity using a constructed plasmid. Through these experiments, we confirmed that Inonotus obliquus extract inhibits melanin synthesis by downregulating the activity and expression of tyrosinase. Furthermore, we revealed that tyrosinase expression is regulated by Inonotus obliquus extract via the repression of Mitf transcriptional activity. Thus, in this study, we found that Inonotus obliquus extract has anti-melanogenic effects via the suppression of melanin synthesis. Taken together, we demonstrated that Inonotus obliquus extract is a good potential candidate for use as a natural source for the therapeutic treatment of hyperpigmentation and for applications in whitening cosmetic products.

Classification, Biological Characteristics and Cultivations of Ganoderma

Species of Ganoderma (Ling-zhi) have been widely researched and cultivated due to their highly prized medicinal value, which is famous as a traditional Chinese medicine. The aims of this chapter are to (1) review the historical taxonomy of the family Ganodermataceae, (2) provide an account of the genera and species of Ganoderma together with the distributions and habitats, (3) evaluate morphological features and phylogenetic methods to define the genera and species and (4) present two commonly used cultivated methods (wood-log cultivation and substitute cultivation) for Ganoderma.

Long-Term Monokaryotic Cultures of Pleurotus ostreatus var. florida Produce High and Stable Laccase Activity Capable to Degrade ß-Carotene

An extracellular laccase (Lacc10) was discovered in submerged cultures of Pleurotus ostreatus var. florida bleaching ß-carotene effectively without the addition of a mediator (650 mU/L, pH 4). Heterologous expression in P. pastoris confirmed the activity and structural analyses revealed a carotenoid-binding domain, which formed the substrate-binding pocket and is reported here for the first time. In order to increase activity, 106 basidiospore-derived monokaryons and crosses of compatible progenies were generated. These showed high intraspecific variability in growth rate and enzyme formation. Seventy-two homokaryons exhibited a higher activity-to-growth-rate-relation than the parental dikaryon, and one isolate produced a very high activity (1800 mU/L), while most of the dikaryotic hybrids showed lower activity. The analysis of the laccase gene of the monokaryons revealed two sequences differing in three amino acids, but the primary sequences gave no clue for the diversity of activity. The enzyme production in submerged cultures of monokaryons was stable over seven sub-cultivation cycles.

Medicinal mushroom: boon for therapeutic applications

Medicinal mushrooms are higher fungi with additional nutraceutical attributes having low fat content and a trans-isomer of unsaturated fatty acids along with high fibre content, triterpenes, phenolic compounds, sterols, eritadenine and chitosan. They are considered as the unmatched source of healthy foods and drugs. They have outstanding attractive taste, aroma and nutritional value, so are considered as functional food, which means they are beneficial to the body not only in terms of nutrition but also for improved health. Medicinal mushrooms and their extract have a large number of bioactive components called secondary metabolites. The presence of polysaccharide β-glucans or polysaccharide-protein complexes content in mushroom extract have great therapeutic applications in human health as they possess many properties such as anti-diabetic, anti-cancerous, anti-obesity, immunomodulatory, hypocholesteremia, hepatoprotective nature along with anti-aging. The present review focuses on the comprehensive account of the medicinal properties of various medicinal mushrooms. This will further help the researchers to understand the metabolites and find other metabolites as well from the mushrooms which can be used for the potential development of the drugs to treat various life-threatening diseases.

Anti-Acne Activity of Italian Medicinal Plants Used for Skin Infection

Propionibacterium acnes is implicated in the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris, which impacts >85% of teenagers. Novel therapies are in high demand and an ethnopharmacological approach to discovering new plant sources of anti-acne therapeutics could contribute to filling this void in effective therapies. The aims of our study were two-fold: (1) To determine if species identified in ethnopharmacological field studies as having traditional uses for skin and soft tissue infection (SSTI) exhibit significantly more activity against P. acnes than species with no such reported use; and (2) Chemically characterize active extracts and assess their suitability for future investigation. Extracts of Italian medicinal (for acne and other skin infection) and randomly collected plants and fungi were screened for growth-inhibitory and anti-biofilm activity in P. acnes using broth microdilution methods. Bioactive extracts were chemically characterized by HPLC and examined for cytotoxicity against human keratinocytes (HaCaTs). Following evaluation of 157 extracts from 10 fungi and 58 plants, we identified crude extracts from seven species exhibiting growth inhibitory activity (MICs 64–256 μg mL⁻¹). All active extracts were examined for cytotoxicity against HaCaTs; extracts from one fungal and one plant species were toxic (IC₅₀ 256 μg mL⁻¹). HPLC analysis with chemical standards revealed many of these extracts contained chlorogenic acid, p-coumaric acid, ellagic acid, gallic acid, and tannic acid. In conclusion, species used in traditional medicine for the skin exhibited significantly greater (p < 0.05) growth inhibitory and biofilm eradication activity than random species, supporting the validity of an ethnobotanical approach to identifying new therapeutics. The anti-acne activity of three extracts is reported for the first time: Vitis vinifera leaves, Asphodelus microcarpus leaves, and Vicia sativa aerial parts.

Nutritional composition of two wild mushrooms consumed by the tribals of the Western Ghats of India

This study provides the nutritional qualities of two wild mushrooms (Agaricus abruptibulbus and Termitomyces globulus) commonly consumed by the tribals of Kaiga forests of the Western Ghats of India. Both mushrooms composed of high quantity of crude protein, crude fibre, calorific value and low quantity of crude lipid. Potassium and selenium contents were high, while sodium, calcium and phosphorus contents were low. Except for three essential amino acids (EAAs: leucine, tyrosine and lysine), the rest of the amino acids in both mushrooms were comparable to soybean and wheat. Based on the EAA standards of FAO-WHO, these mushrooms composed of high quantity of threonine, isoleucine and histidine. The EAA score of isoleucine in cooked A. abruptibulbus and threonine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, histidine and sulphur amino acids in cooked T. globulus were substantially high. Oleic acid constitutes a major unsaturated fatty acid in these mushrooms, which was significantly increased in cooked A. abruptibulbus. Cooking also increased the ratio of TUFA/TSFA in A. abruptibulbus, while it was opposite in T. globulus. Cooking significantly increased the linoleic acid in A. abruptibulbus and eicosadienoic acid in T. globulus.