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Abd Rahman IZ, Adam SH, Hamid AA, Mokhtar MH, Mustafar R, Kashim MIAM, Febriza A, Mansor NI. Potential Neuroprotective Effects of Alpinia officinarum Hance (Galangal): A Review. Nutrients 2024; 16:3378. [PMID: 39408345 PMCID: PMC11478918 DOI: 10.3390/nu16193378] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/29/2024] [Revised: 09/20/2024] [Accepted: 09/30/2024] [Indexed: 10/20/2024] Open
Abstract
Background/Objectives: This review aims to provide a detailed understanding of the current evidence on Alpinia officinarum Hance (A. officinarum) and its potential therapeutic role in central nervous system (CNS) disorders. CNS disorders encompass a wide range of disorders affecting the brain and spinal cord, leading to various neurological, cognitive and psychiatric impairments. In recent years, natural products have emerged as potential neuroprotective agents for the treatment of CNS disorders due to their outstanding bioactivity and favourable safety profile. One such plant is A. officinarum, also known as lesser galangal, a perennial herb from the Zingiberaceae family. Its phytochemical compounds such as flavonoids and phenols have been documented to have a powerful antioxidants effect, capable of scavenging free radicals and preventing oxidative damage. Methods: In this review, we critically evaluate the in vitro and in vivo studies and examine the mechanisms by which A. officinarum exerts its neuroprotective effect. Results: Several studies have confirmed that A. officinarum exerts its neuroprotective effects by reducing oxidative stress and cell apoptosis, promoting neurite outgrowth, and modulating neurotransmitter levels and signalling pathways. Conclusions: Although previous studies have shown promising results in various models of neurological disorders, the underlying mechanisms of A. officinarum in Alzheimer's (AD) and Parkinson's disease (PD) are still poorly understood. Further studies on brain tissue and cognitive and motor functions in animal models of AD and PD are needed to validate the results observed in in vitro studies. In addition, further clinical studies are needed to confirm the safety and efficacy of A. officinarum in CNS disorders.
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Affiliation(s)
- Izzat Zulhilmi Abd Rahman
- Department of Physiology, Faculty of Medicine, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur 56000, Malaysia; (I.Z.A.R.); (A.A.H.); (M.H.M.)
| | - Siti Hajar Adam
- Preclinical Department, Faculty of Medicine & Defence Health, Universiti Pertahanan Nasional Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur 57000, Malaysia;
| | - Adila A. Hamid
- Department of Physiology, Faculty of Medicine, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur 56000, Malaysia; (I.Z.A.R.); (A.A.H.); (M.H.M.)
| | - Mohd Helmy Mokhtar
- Department of Physiology, Faculty of Medicine, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur 56000, Malaysia; (I.Z.A.R.); (A.A.H.); (M.H.M.)
| | - Ruslinda Mustafar
- Department of Medicine, Faculty of Medicine, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur 56000, Malaysia;
| | - Mohd Izhar Ariff Mohd Kashim
- Centre of Shariah, Faculty of Islamic Studies, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia, Bangi 43600, Malaysia;
- Institute of Islam Hadhari, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia, Bangi 43600, Malaysia
| | - Ami Febriza
- Faculty of Medicine and Health Sciences, Universitas Muhammadiyah Makassar, Makassar 90221, South Sulawesi, Indonesia;
| | - Nur Izzati Mansor
- Department of Nursing, Faculty of Medicine, Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur 56000, Malaysia
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Cicchetti C, Mazzeo C, Heke M, Crowley M, Ntonos A, Crowley E. Topical Wharton's Jelly MSC-Derived Age Zero™ Exosome Treatments After Micro-Needling for Skin Rejuvenation. J Cosmet Dermatol 2024. [PMID: 39367640 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16561] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/01/2024] [Revised: 07/11/2024] [Accepted: 08/22/2024] [Indexed: 10/06/2024]
Affiliation(s)
- Corine Cicchetti
- Resiliélle Cosmetics™, LLC, USA
- Regenerelle®, LLC, USA
- Buffalo Regenerative Medicine, USA
| | - Carla Mazzeo
- Resiliélle Cosmetics™, LLC, USA
- Regenerelle®, LLC, USA
- The Crowley Center for Regenerative Biotherapeutics LLC, USA
| | - Michael Heke
- Resiliélle Cosmetics™, LLC, USA
- Regenerelle®, LLC, USA
- The Crowley Center for Regenerative Biotherapeutics LLC, USA
| | - Michael Crowley
- Resiliélle Cosmetics™, LLC, USA
- Regenerelle®, LLC, USA
- The Crowley Center for Regenerative Biotherapeutics LLC, USA
| | | | - Erin Crowley
- Resiliélle Cosmetics™, LLC, USA
- Regenerelle®, LLC, USA
- The Crowley Center for Regenerative Biotherapeutics LLC, USA
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Pires PC, Motallebi M, Marques MP, Correia M, Sharma A, Damiri F, Hameed H, Singh SK, Dua K, Jha NK, Cabral C, Veiga F, Paiva-Santos AC. Mentha aquatica (Water Mint) as a Source of Active Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Ingredients: A Critical Review. Phytother Res 2024. [PMID: 39363549 DOI: 10.1002/ptr.8337] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/25/2024] [Revised: 07/21/2024] [Accepted: 09/01/2024] [Indexed: 10/05/2024]
Abstract
Mentha aquatica L., or water mint, is an important member of the Mentha genus, and has long been used in traditional medicine, mainly to treat respiratory diseases such as the common cold. Nevertheless, although over the years many studies have shown that it's potential grows beyond this use, a review that highlights M. aquatica L.'s true potential is still lacking. Thus, the main purpose of the present article is to provide a thorough and multidisciplinary critical review of M. aquatica L., including its phytochemical characterization, main bioactivities, and current marketed cosmetic products. Many compounds have been identified as part of M. aquatica L. composition, such as terpenes, phenolic acids, phenols, and terpenoids, which have been linked to a vast therapeutic potential, namely anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, antiobesity, and hepatoprotection bioactivities, with additional anticancer potential for several types of tumors (breast, lung, and skin), and psycho and neuroactive potential in depression, or Alzheimer's or Parkinson's disease. Additionally, it has been proven to be suitable for cosmetic application since several cleansing, hydrating, protecting, and/or odor masking products containing it are already available, with the main functions attributed to M. aquatica including refreshing/cooling effects, calming/soothing/relaxing effects, and purifying effects, properties closely related to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant bioactivities. Hence, M. aquatica is an extremely versatile plant, with its extracts and essential oils having great therapeutic and cosmetic potential. With many marketed cosmetic products, future studies should focus on this plant's medicinal aspects, so that 1 day it can be part of therapeutic regimens.
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Affiliation(s)
- Patrícia C Pires
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Coimbra, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
- LAQV, REQUIMTE, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Coimbra, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
- Health Sciences Research Centre (CICS-UBI), University of Beira Interior, Covilha, Portugal
| | - Mahzad Motallebi
- Nanomedicine Research Association (NRA), Universal Scientific Education and Research Network (USERN), Tehran, Iran
| | - Mário Pedro Marques
- Coimbra Institute for Clinical and Biomedical Research (iCBR), Clinic Academic Center of Coimbra (CACC), Faculty of Medicine, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
- Center for Innovative Biomedicine and Biotechnology (CIBB), University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
| | - Mafalda Correia
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Coimbra, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
- LAQV, REQUIMTE, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Coimbra, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
| | - Ankur Sharma
- Strathclyde Institute of Pharmacy and Biomedical Sciences, University of Strathclyde, Glasgow, UK
| | - Fouad Damiri
- Laboratory of Analytical and Molecular Chemistry (LCAM), Faculty of Sciences Ben M'Sick, Department of Chemistry, University Hassan II of Casablanca, Casablanca, Morocco
- Chemical Science and Engineering Research Team (ERSIC), Department of Chemistry, Polydisciplinary Faculty of Beni Mellal (FPBM), Sultan Moulay Slimane University (USMS), Beni Mellal, Morocco
| | - Huma Hameed
- Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Central Punjab, Lahore, Pakistan
| | - Sachin Kumar Singh
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Lovely Professional University, Phagwara, Punjab, India
- Faculty of Health, Australian Research Centre in Complementary and Integrative Medicine, University of Technology Sydney, Ultimo, New South Wales, Australia
| | - Kamal Dua
- Faculty of Health, Australian Research Centre in Complementary and Integrative Medicine, University of Technology Sydney, Ultimo, New South Wales, Australia
- Discipline of Pharmacy, Graduate School of Health, University of Technology Sydney, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
| | - Niraj Kumar Jha
- Centre for Global Health Research, Saveetha Medical College, Saveetha Institute of Medical and Technical Sciences, Saveetha University, Chennai, India
| | - Célia Cabral
- Coimbra Institute for Clinical and Biomedical Research (iCBR), Clinic Academic Center of Coimbra (CACC), Faculty of Medicine, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
- Center for Innovative Biomedicine and Biotechnology (CIBB), University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
- Centre for Functional Ecology, Department of Life Sciences, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
| | - Francisco Veiga
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Coimbra, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
- LAQV, REQUIMTE, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Coimbra, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
| | - Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos
- Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Coimbra, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
- LAQV, REQUIMTE, Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy of the University of Coimbra, University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal
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Yoon JH, Kim YH, Jeong EY, Lee YH, Byun Y, Shin SS, Park JT. Senescence Rejuvenation through Reduction in Mitochondrial Reactive Oxygen Species Generation by Polygonum cuspidatum Extract: In Vitro Evidence. Antioxidants (Basel) 2024; 13:1110. [PMID: 39334769 PMCID: PMC11429016 DOI: 10.3390/antiox13091110] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/16/2024] [Revised: 09/05/2024] [Accepted: 09/10/2024] [Indexed: 09/30/2024] Open
Abstract
Oxidative stress caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) is one of the major causes of senescence. Strategies to reduce ROS are known to be important factors in reversing senescence, but effective strategies have not been found. In this study, we screened substances commonly used as cosmetic additives to find substances with antioxidant effects. Polygonum cuspidatum (P. cuspidatum) extract significantly reduced ROS levels in senescent cells. A novel mechanism was discovered in which P. cuspidatum extract reduced ROS, a byproduct of inefficient oxidative phosphorylation (OXPHOS), by increasing OXPHOS efficiency. The reduction in ROS by P. cuspidatum extract restored senescence-associated phenotypes and enhanced skin protection. Then, we identified polydatin as the active ingredient of P. cuspidatum extract that exhibited antioxidant effects. Polydatin, which contains stilbenoid polyphenols that act as singlet oxygen scavengers through redox reactions, increased OXPHOS efficiency and subsequently restored senescence-associated phenotypes. In summary, our data confirmed the effects of P. cuspidatum extract on senescence rejuvenation and skin protection through ROS reduction. This novel finding may be used as a treatment in senescence rejuvenation in clinical and cosmetic fields.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jee Hee Yoon
- Division of Life Sciences, College of Life Sciences and Bioengineering, Incheon National University, Incheon 22012, Republic of Korea; (J.H.Y.); (Y.H.L.)
| | - Ye Hyang Kim
- Hyundai Bioland Co., Ltd., 22, Osongsaengmyeong 2-ro, Osong-eup, Heungdeok-gu, Cheongju-si 28162, Republic of Korea; (Y.H.K.); (E.Y.J.)
| | - Eun Young Jeong
- Hyundai Bioland Co., Ltd., 22, Osongsaengmyeong 2-ro, Osong-eup, Heungdeok-gu, Cheongju-si 28162, Republic of Korea; (Y.H.K.); (E.Y.J.)
| | - Yun Haeng Lee
- Division of Life Sciences, College of Life Sciences and Bioengineering, Incheon National University, Incheon 22012, Republic of Korea; (J.H.Y.); (Y.H.L.)
| | - Youngjoo Byun
- College of Pharmacy, Korea University, Sejong 30019, Republic of Korea;
| | - Song Seok Shin
- Hyundai Bioland Co., Ltd., 22, Osongsaengmyeong 2-ro, Osong-eup, Heungdeok-gu, Cheongju-si 28162, Republic of Korea; (Y.H.K.); (E.Y.J.)
| | - Joon Tae Park
- Division of Life Sciences, College of Life Sciences and Bioengineering, Incheon National University, Incheon 22012, Republic of Korea; (J.H.Y.); (Y.H.L.)
- Convergence Research Center for Insect Vectors, Incheon National University, Incheon 22012, Republic of Korea
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Maurício EM, Branco P, Araújo ALB, Roma-Rodrigues C, Lima K, Duarte MP, Fernandes AR, Albergaria H. Evaluation of Biotechnological Active Peptides Secreted by Saccharomyces cerevisiae with Potential Skin Benefits. Antibiotics (Basel) 2024; 13:881. [PMID: 39335054 PMCID: PMC11429205 DOI: 10.3390/antibiotics13090881] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/31/2024] [Revised: 09/09/2024] [Accepted: 09/10/2024] [Indexed: 09/30/2024] Open
Abstract
Biotechnological active peptides are gaining interest in the cosmetics industry due to their antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-collagenase (ACE) effects, as well as wound healing properties, making them suitable for cosmetic formulations. The antimicrobial activity of peptides (2-10 kDa) secreted by Saccharomyces cerevisiae Ethanol-Red was evaluated against dermal pathogens using broth microdilution and challenge tests. ACE was assessed using a collagenase activity colorimetric assay, antioxidant activity via spectrophotometric monitoring of nitrotetrazolium blue chloride (NBT) reduction, and anti-inflammatory effects by quantifying TNF-α mRNA in lipopolysaccharides (LPS)-exposed dermal fibroblasts. Wound healing assays involved human fibroblasts, endothelial cells, and dermal keratinocytes. The peptides (2-10 kDa) exhibited antimicrobial activity against 10 dermal pathogens, with the Minimum Inhibitory Concentrations (MICs) ranging from 125 µg/mL for Staphylococcus aureus to 1000 µg/mL for Candida albicans and Streptococcus pyogenes. In the challenge test, peptides at their MICs reduced microbial counts significantly, fulfilling ISO 11930:2019 standards, except against Aspergillus brasiliensis. The peptides combined with MicrocareⓇ SB showed synergy, particularly against C. albicans and A. brasilensis. In vitro, the peptides inhibited collagenase activity by 41.8% and 94.5% at 250 and 1000 µg/mL, respectively, and demonstrated antioxidant capacity. Pre-incubation with peptides decreased TNF-α expression in fibroblasts, indicating anti-inflammatory effects. The peptides do not show to promote or inhibit the angiogenesis of endothelial cells, but are able to attenuate fibrosis, scar formation, and chronic inflammation during the final phases of the wound healing process. The peptides showed antimicrobial, antioxidant, ACE, and anti-inflammatory properties, highlighting their potential as multifunctional bioactive ingredients in skincare, warranting further optimization and exploration in cosmetic applications.
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Affiliation(s)
- Elisabete Muchagato Maurício
- BIORG-Bioengineering and Sustainability Research Group, Faculdade de Engenharia, Universidade Lusófona, Av. Campo Grande 376, 1749-024 Lisbon, Portugal
- CBIOS-Research Center for Biosciences & Health Technologies, Universidade Lusófona, Campo Grande 376, 1749-024 Lisbon, Portugal
- Elisa Câmara, Lda, Dermocosmética, Centro Empresarial de Talaíde, n°7 e 8, 2785-723 Lisbon, Portugal
| | - Patrícia Branco
- BIORG-Bioengineering and Sustainability Research Group, Faculdade de Engenharia, Universidade Lusófona, Av. Campo Grande 376, 1749-024 Lisbon, Portugal
- Linking Landscape, Environment, Agriculture and Food (LEAF), Associated Laboratory TERRA, Instituto Superior de Agronomia, University of Lisbon, Tapada da Ajuda, 1349-017 Lisbon, Portugal
- Unit of Bioenergy and Biorefinary, Laboratório Nacional de Energia e Geologia (LNEG), Estrada do Paço do Lumiar, 22, 1649-038 Lisbon, Portugal
| | - Ana Luiza Barros Araújo
- BIORG-Bioengineering and Sustainability Research Group, Faculdade de Engenharia, Universidade Lusófona, Av. Campo Grande 376, 1749-024 Lisbon, Portugal
| | - Catarina Roma-Rodrigues
- UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department Ciências da Vida, NOVA School of Science and Technology, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal
- i4HB, Associate Laboratory-Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal
| | - Katelene Lima
- Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, 1649-003 Lisbon, Portugal
| | - Maria Paula Duarte
- The Mechanical Engineering and Resource Sustainability Center (MEtRICs), Chemistry Department, NOVA School of Science and Technology, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal
| | - Alexandra R Fernandes
- UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, Department Ciências da Vida, NOVA School of Science and Technology, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal
- i4HB, Associate Laboratory-Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia, Universidade NOVA de Lisboa, 2829-516 Caparica, Portugal
| | - Helena Albergaria
- Unit of Bioenergy and Biorefinary, Laboratório Nacional de Energia e Geologia (LNEG), Estrada do Paço do Lumiar, 22, 1649-038 Lisbon, Portugal
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Bournez C, Gally JM, Aci-Sèche S, Bernard P, Bonnet P. Virtual screening of natural products to enhance melanogenosis. Mol Inform 2024; 43:e202300335. [PMID: 38864978 DOI: 10.1002/minf.202300335] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/06/2023] [Revised: 04/24/2024] [Accepted: 04/25/2024] [Indexed: 06/13/2024]
Abstract
Natural products have long been an important source of inspiration for medicinal chemistry and drug discovery. In the cosmetic field, they remain the major elements of the composition and serve as marketing asset. Recent research showed the implication of salt-inducible kinases on the melanin production in skin via MITF regulation. Finding new potent modulators on such target could open the way to several cosmetic applications to attenuate visible signs of photoaging and improve the tan without sun. Since virtual screening can be a powerful tool for detecting hit compounds in the early stages of a drug discovery process, we applied this method on salt-inducible kinase 2 to discover potential interesting compounds. Here, we present the different steps from the construction of a database of natural products, to the validation of a docking protocol and the results of the virtual screening. Hits from the screening were tested in vitro to confirm their efficiency and results are discussed.
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Affiliation(s)
- Colin Bournez
- Institut de Chimie Organique et Analytique (ICOA), UMR CNRS-Université d'Orléans 7311, Université d'Orléans BP 6759, 45067, Orléans Cedex 2, France
| | - José-Manuel Gally
- Institut de Chimie Organique et Analytique (ICOA), UMR CNRS-Université d'Orléans 7311, Université d'Orléans BP 6759, 45067, Orléans Cedex 2, France
| | - Samia Aci-Sèche
- Institut de Chimie Organique et Analytique (ICOA), UMR CNRS-Université d'Orléans 7311, Université d'Orléans BP 6759, 45067, Orléans Cedex 2, France
| | | | - Pascal Bonnet
- Institut de Chimie Organique et Analytique (ICOA), UMR CNRS-Université d'Orléans 7311, Université d'Orléans BP 6759, 45067, Orléans Cedex 2, France
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Oginga E, Toeri J, Marete E, Arimi J. Potential Application of Camel Milk as a Therapeutic Ingredient in Bath Soaps and Shampoos. Dermatol Res Pract 2024; 2024:4846339. [PMID: 39219666 PMCID: PMC11364480 DOI: 10.1155/2024/4846339] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/29/2024] [Accepted: 08/06/2024] [Indexed: 09/04/2024] Open
Abstract
The increasing worldwide market for natural-ingredient-based cosmetic toiletries is fuelled by the awareness of the dangers of synthetic cosmetics and benefits of natural-based cosmetics on the skincare and management of skin disorders. Besides naturally formulated cosmetics being biodegradable, they also contain ingredients which are chemically beneficial to human skin. Milk-based cosmetics are very promising since milk is rich in essential components such as lactoferrins, vitamins, and lactic acids, which have shown therapeutic properties against disorders such as skin cancer, acne scars, and dandruff. One of the milk that is very promising in the cosmetics industry is the camel milk. Currently, there is limited information in literature regarding the use of camel milk in cosmetics and their benefits. Camel milk stands out from bovine milk following its unique therapeutic properties and chemical composition, making it a potential ingredient for skincare and haircare products such as bath soaps and shampoos. The aim of this paper is to review the available literature on camel milk composition and evaluate the contribution of camel milk constituents to cosmetics.
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Affiliation(s)
- Elly Oginga
- Department of Physical SciencesMeru University of Science and Technology, Meru, Kenya
- Centre of Excellence in Camel ResearchMeru University of Science and Technology, Meru, Kenya
| | - Julius Toeri
- Department of Physical SciencesMeru University of Science and Technology, Meru, Kenya
| | - Eunice Marete
- Department of Physical SciencesMeru University of Science and Technology, Meru, Kenya
- Centre of Excellence in Camel ResearchMeru University of Science and Technology, Meru, Kenya
| | - Joshua Arimi
- Centre of Excellence in Camel ResearchMeru University of Science and Technology, Meru, Kenya
- Department of Food ScienceMeru University of Science and Technology, Meru, Kenya
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Chng CP, Gupta S, Huang C. Protonation State of a Bioactive Compound Regulates Its Release from Lamellar Gel-Phase Bilayers. J Phys Chem B 2024; 128:7180-7187. [PMID: 38993042 DOI: 10.1021/acs.jpcb.4c02442] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 07/13/2024]
Abstract
Lamellar gel networks (LGNs) in personal care or pharmaceutical lotions and creams provide an opaque cream appearance and a creamy texture to these products. Within the LGNs, the lamellar gel (Lβ) phase composed of regularly spaced bilayers of surfactants and long-chain fatty alcohols is predominately responsible for the unique rheological properties of the LGNs. To extend the shelf life of LGN-containing products, bioactive compounds with antimicrobial properties are often incorporated into the formulation. However, how the protonation state of the bioactive compounds regulates their release from the Lβ-phase bilayers is currently unknown. Using molecular dynamics simulations, we found that the protonated (neutral) form of cinnamic acid, a common antimicrobial food additive, has a retention ratio higher than that of its deprotonated (charged) counterpart in the Lβ-phase bilayer. From free energy calculations, we determined that not only is the protonated molecule more stable in the hydrophobic interior of the bilayer but also the formation of hydrogen-bonded dimers significantly enhances its stability within the bilayer. Thus, the protonation state has a profound impact on bioavailability of the compounds. Our results also highlight the importance of considering possible oligomeric states of molecules when performing calculations to estimate the permeability of molecules within various bilayers.
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Affiliation(s)
- Choon-Peng Chng
- School of Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering, Nanyang Technological University, Singapore 639798, Republic of Singapore
| | - Shikhar Gupta
- P&G Singapore Innovation Center (SgIC), 70 Biopolis Street, Singapore 138547, Republic of Singapore
| | - Changjin Huang
- School of Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering, Nanyang Technological University, Singapore 639798, Republic of Singapore
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Nedjimi B. New Insights into Trace Element Accumulation in Kernels of Two Algerian Populations of Argan (Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels): An Endangered Endemic Tree. Biol Trace Elem Res 2024:10.1007/s12011-024-04310-5. [PMID: 39037502 DOI: 10.1007/s12011-024-04310-5] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Submit a Manuscript] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/28/2024] [Accepted: 07/10/2024] [Indexed: 07/23/2024]
Abstract
Argan is one of the valuable oilseed trees in the Northwest Africa area, with important ecological and socioeconomic benefits; however, information underlying its elemental status remains absent . The current work was performed for the first time to quantify the mineral status of Argania spinosa kernels collected from two different geographic Algerian regions (Mostaganem and Tindouf). Elemental investigation (As, Br, Ca, Ce, Co, Cr, Fe, K, La, Na, Rb, Sb, Sc, Sm, Th, and Zn) was performed using neutron activation analysis (NAA). Two standard reference materials from the National Research Center for certified reference materials (China), namely, CRM-GBW 07605 (GSV-4 tea leaves), and the National Institute of Standards and Technology (USA), namely, NIST (SRM 1573a, tomato leaves), were used to ensure precision and validation of NAA measurements. A computational calculation of data including principal component analysis (PCA) and Pearson correlation coefficient (r) was applied. The extents of essential elements in Mostaganem kernels were found to be in the order of K (7185 μg g-1) > Ca (2079 μg g-1) > Na (205 μg g-1) > Fe (84.33 μg g-1) > Zn (73.41 μg g-1) > Cr (0.66 μg g-1) > Co (0.035 μg g-1), whereas the overall order of these elements in Tindouf kernels was K (7206 μg g-1) > Ca (3725 μg g-1) > Fe (114.69 μg g-1) > Zn (67.37 μg g-1) > Na (56.29 μg g-1) > Cr (0.54 μg g-1) > Co (0.11 μg g-1). PCA results revealed that Tindouf population was highly loaded with Br, Cr, Cu, Mn, Sr, V, and Zn, while Mostaganem population was associated only with Ce and Sm contents. These findings can be useful for making new formulations for cosmetic and culinary usage and contribute to the nutritional database and food safety.
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Affiliation(s)
- Bouzid Nedjimi
- Laboratory of Exploration and Valorization of Steppe Ecosystem, Faculty of Science of Nature and Life, Ziane Achour University of Djelfa, Cité Aîn Chih, P.O. Box 3117, 17000, Djelfa, Algeria.
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Almeman AA. Evaluating the Efficacy and Safety of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids in Dermatological Practice: A Comprehensive Clinical and Legal Review. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol 2024; 17:1661-1685. [PMID: 39050562 PMCID: PMC11268769 DOI: 10.2147/ccid.s453243] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/07/2024] [Accepted: 06/23/2024] [Indexed: 07/27/2024]
Abstract
The global market for alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) is undergoing significant expansion, propelled by increasing demand for skincare products that address aging and environmental damage. This review focuses on the dermatological applications of AHAs, particularly in cosmetic formulations like chemical peels. We have identified that AHAs, such as glycolic and lactic acids, enhance skin rejuvenation by promoting apoptosis in skin cells, boosting collagen and elastin synthesis, and improving skin texture and luminosity. Our comprehensive analysis reveals a nuanced understanding of AHAs' effectiveness across various skin types and conditions, demonstrating their broad utility in treating conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, and photoaging. However, the optimal concentrations for therapeutic efficacy with minimal side effects are yet to be precisely defined, necessitating further research. Regulatory compliance is underscored as essential for the safe application of AHAs in cosmetics, with international guidelines recommending specific concentrations and pH levels to minimize potential skin irritation. In Conclusion, the review highlights the effectiveness of AHAs in cosmetic dermatology, emphasizing the necessity for continued research and rigorous regulatory adherence to maximize their safe and beneficial application worldwide.
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11
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Jalmakhanbetova RI, Mukusheva GK, Abdugalimov AS, Zhumagalieva ZZ, Dehaen W, Anthonissen S, Suleimen YM, Seidakhmetova RB. Synthesis and Investigation of Biological Activity of New Betulonic Acid Derivatives Containing 1,2,3-Triazole Fragments. Molecules 2024; 29:3149. [PMID: 38999106 PMCID: PMC11243376 DOI: 10.3390/molecules29133149] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/05/2024] [Revised: 06/27/2024] [Accepted: 06/28/2024] [Indexed: 07/14/2024] Open
Abstract
The results of this study showed that the compounds synthesized by the authors have significant potential due to their antibacterial and cytotoxic properties. The apparent antibacterial activity demonstrated by the compounds suggests that they are active antimicrobial agents against common microbial pathogens that cause various socially significant infectious diseases. Compound 6 showed pronounced antimicrobial activity against the Gram-positive test strain Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, and compound 7 demonstrated pronounced antimicrobial activity against the Gram-negative test strain Escherichia coli ATCC 25922 (MIC = 6.3 µg/mL). This allowed us to consider these compounds to have great potential.
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Affiliation(s)
- Roza I Jalmakhanbetova
- Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Natural Sciences, L.N. Gumilyov Eurasian National University, Astana 010000, Kazakhstan
| | - Gulim K Mukusheva
- Faculty of Chemistry, Karaganda Buketov University, Karaganda 100024, Kazakhstan
| | - Alisher Sh Abdugalimov
- Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Natural Sciences, L.N. Gumilyov Eurasian National University, Astana 010000, Kazakhstan
| | | | - Wim Dehaen
- Department of Chemistry, KU Leuven, Celestijnenlaan 200F, B-3001 Leuven, Belgium
| | - Stijn Anthonissen
- Department of Chemistry, KU Leuven, Celestijnenlaan 200F, B-3001 Leuven, Belgium
| | - Yerlan M Suleimen
- Department of Chemistry, Chemical Technology and Ecology, Faculty of Technology, K. Kulazhanov Kazakh University of Technology and Business, Astana 010000, Kazakhstan
| | - Roza B Seidakhmetova
- Department of Clinical Pharmacology and Evidence-Based Medicine, Karaganda Medical University, Karaganda 100024, Kazakhstan
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12
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Dini I. "Edible Beauty": The Evolution of Environmentally Friendly Cosmetics and Packaging. Antioxidants (Basel) 2024; 13:742. [PMID: 38929181 PMCID: PMC11200421 DOI: 10.3390/antiox13060742] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/05/2024] [Revised: 06/14/2024] [Accepted: 06/17/2024] [Indexed: 06/28/2024] Open
Abstract
The cosmetics industry plays a significant role in the global economy and consumer lifestyles. Its dynamic and adaptable characteristics make it a key player worldwide. The cosmetics industry generates enormous profits globally, injecting billions of dollars into the world's economy each year. The industry's marketing efforts, product launches, and trends influence consumer behavior and perceptions of beauty, contributing to cultural dialogues and societal norms. This study, conducted with a rigorous bibliometric and systematic literature review, offers a comprehensive overview of recent progress in edible cosmetics. The "skincare you can eat" is an innovative branch of cosmetics that employs food co-products and by-products to create edible skincare and hair products and edible packaging materials to advance human well-being and sustainability while honoring the ecological boundaries of our planet. Nutrients and antioxidants derived from organic waste are used in cosmetics and packaging. Some doubts remain about the capacity of edible packaging to be attractive to consumers and offer a reasonable shelf life for cosmetics, and also about safety. It is desirable for the authorities to guarantee consumer health through carefully regulating labeling requirements and good manufacturing practices for cosmetics and edible packaging.
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Affiliation(s)
- Irene Dini
- Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Napoli, Italy
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13
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Gomez-Molina M, Albaladejo-Marico L, Yepes-Molina L, Nicolas-Espinosa J, Navarro-León E, Garcia-Ibañez P, Carvajal M. Exploring Phenolic Compounds in Crop By-Products for Cosmetic Efficacy. Int J Mol Sci 2024; 25:5884. [PMID: 38892070 PMCID: PMC11172794 DOI: 10.3390/ijms25115884] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/16/2024] [Revised: 05/14/2024] [Accepted: 05/23/2024] [Indexed: 06/21/2024] Open
Abstract
Phenolic compounds represent a group of secondary metabolites that serve essential functions in plants. Beyond their positive impact on plants, these phenolic metabolites, often referred to as polyphenols, possess a range of biological properties that can promote skin health. Scientific research indicates that topically using phenolics derived from plants can be advantageous, but their activity and stability highly depend on storage of the source material and the extraction method. These compounds have the ability to relieve symptoms and hinder the progression of different skin diseases. Because they come from natural sources and have minimal toxicity, phenolic compounds show potential in addressing the causes and effects of skin aging, skin diseases, and various types of skin damage, such as wounds and burns. Hence, this review provides extensive information on the particular crops from which by-product phenolic compounds can be sourced, also emphasizing the need to conduct research according to proper plant material storage practices and the choice of the best extracting method, along with an examination of their specific functions and the mechanisms by which they act to protect skin.
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Affiliation(s)
- Maria Gomez-Molina
- Aquaporins Group, Centro de Edafologia y Biologia Aplicada del Segura (CEBAS-CSIC), Campus Universitario de Espinardo—25, E-30100 Murcia, Spain; (M.G.-M.); (L.A.-M.); (L.Y.-M.); (J.N.-E.); (P.G.-I.)
| | - Lorena Albaladejo-Marico
- Aquaporins Group, Centro de Edafologia y Biologia Aplicada del Segura (CEBAS-CSIC), Campus Universitario de Espinardo—25, E-30100 Murcia, Spain; (M.G.-M.); (L.A.-M.); (L.Y.-M.); (J.N.-E.); (P.G.-I.)
| | - Lucia Yepes-Molina
- Aquaporins Group, Centro de Edafologia y Biologia Aplicada del Segura (CEBAS-CSIC), Campus Universitario de Espinardo—25, E-30100 Murcia, Spain; (M.G.-M.); (L.A.-M.); (L.Y.-M.); (J.N.-E.); (P.G.-I.)
| | - Juan Nicolas-Espinosa
- Aquaporins Group, Centro de Edafologia y Biologia Aplicada del Segura (CEBAS-CSIC), Campus Universitario de Espinardo—25, E-30100 Murcia, Spain; (M.G.-M.); (L.A.-M.); (L.Y.-M.); (J.N.-E.); (P.G.-I.)
| | - Eloy Navarro-León
- Department of Plant Physiology, Faculty of Sciences, University of Granada, E-18071 Granada, Spain;
| | - Paula Garcia-Ibañez
- Aquaporins Group, Centro de Edafologia y Biologia Aplicada del Segura (CEBAS-CSIC), Campus Universitario de Espinardo—25, E-30100 Murcia, Spain; (M.G.-M.); (L.A.-M.); (L.Y.-M.); (J.N.-E.); (P.G.-I.)
| | - Micaela Carvajal
- Aquaporins Group, Centro de Edafologia y Biologia Aplicada del Segura (CEBAS-CSIC), Campus Universitario de Espinardo—25, E-30100 Murcia, Spain; (M.G.-M.); (L.A.-M.); (L.Y.-M.); (J.N.-E.); (P.G.-I.)
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14
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Cho H, Yang J, Kang JY, Kim KE. Inhibitory Effects of Fermented Sprouted Oat Extracts on Oxidative Stress and Melanin Overproduction. Antioxidants (Basel) 2024; 13:544. [PMID: 38790649 PMCID: PMC11117960 DOI: 10.3390/antiox13050544] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/20/2024] [Revised: 04/26/2024] [Accepted: 04/26/2024] [Indexed: 05/26/2024] Open
Abstract
Hyperpigmentation occurs due to irregular secretion of melanin pigment in the skin. This can affect quality of life depending on its severity, so prevention and management are essential. Oats (Avena sativa L.), a grain consumed worldwide, are known to offer improved health benefits upon germination and fermentation. This study is aimed to investigate the protective effects of lactobacilli-fermented sprouted oat extracts on oxidative stress and melanin overproduction in vitro. The anti-melanogenic effect was investigated using melanin content and tyrosinase activity assays in B16F10 cells, as well as a mushroom tyrosinase-based enzyme inhibition assay. The results showed that L. casei-fermented oat extracts were the most effective for reducing melanin formation by reducing the mRNA expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related protein 2. Furthermore, L. casei fermentation was effective in improving the total phenolic, flavonoid, and avenanthramide A contents of sprouted oat extracts. The results also demonstrated the antioxidant effects of L. casei-fermented sprouted oat extracts in promoting DPPH radical-scavenging activity, superoxide dismutase-like activity, and reduction in reactive oxygen species levels. Overall, the findings indicate that fermented sprouted oat extracts are promising candidates for antioxidant and anti-hyperpigmentation treatments.
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Affiliation(s)
- Hyeijin Cho
- Department of Health Industry, Sookmyung Women’s University, Seoul 04310, Republic of Korea; (H.C.); (J.Y.K.)
| | - Jisun Yang
- Department of Cosmetic Sciences, Sookmyung Women’s University, Seoul 04310, Republic of Korea;
| | - Ji Young Kang
- Department of Health Industry, Sookmyung Women’s University, Seoul 04310, Republic of Korea; (H.C.); (J.Y.K.)
| | - Kyung Eun Kim
- Department of Health Industry, Sookmyung Women’s University, Seoul 04310, Republic of Korea; (H.C.); (J.Y.K.)
- Department of Cosmetic Sciences, Sookmyung Women’s University, Seoul 04310, Republic of Korea;
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15
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Shah RR, Vaidya D, Grant-Kels JM. Ethics of educating teenage patients about skin care in the social media era. J Am Acad Dermatol 2024:S0190-9622(24)00656-X. [PMID: 38679236 DOI: 10.1016/j.jaad.2024.04.038] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/21/2024] [Revised: 04/10/2024] [Accepted: 04/19/2024] [Indexed: 05/01/2024]
Affiliation(s)
- Rohan R Shah
- Department of Rutgers New Jersey Medical School, Newark, New Jersey
| | | | - Jane M Grant-Kels
- Department of Dermatology, University of Connecticut School of Medicine, Farmington, Connecticut; Department of Dermatology, University of Florida College of Medicine, Gainesville, Florida.
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16
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Shettar PS, Hiremath MB. GC-MS analysis and anti-oxidant activity of bioactive compounds of Simarouba glauca leaf extracts. Nat Prod Res 2024:1-10. [PMID: 38651517 DOI: 10.1080/14786419.2024.2344737] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/23/2023] [Accepted: 04/15/2024] [Indexed: 04/25/2024]
Abstract
The aim of this study is to analyse the phytochemical composition, anti-oxidant activity, FT-IR and GC-MS analysis of Simarouba glauca leaf extracts. The chloroform extract exhibited highest T.P.C. (139.82 ± 0.06 mg/g GAE) and highest T.F.C. (41.95 ± 0.50 mg/g QE). The GC-MS analysis confirmed the presence of ten compounds in acetone extract and twenty-two compounds in methanol extract. The GC-MS analysis of acetone fraction showed the major peaks such as Glycerine (13.20%), 1,1,1-trichloro-2-methyl-2-propanol (8.92%), Cyclohexanol,2-methyl-5-(1-methylethenyl)- (6.09%), Tetradecane, 2,6,10-trimethyl (7.68%) and Phytol (7.53%). Some of these compounds exhibit anti-oxidant activities. GC-MS analysis of methanol fraction exhibited the presence of following compounds: Undecane (8.52%), 2,3-Trimethylene-4-pyrone (1.79%), cis-Sinapyl alcohol (2.33%) and Umckalin (1.19%). The acetone and methanol fractions exhibited higher percentage of inhibition in DPPH assay. The overall results of this study indicate that the acetone and methanol fractions have been demonstrated to be efficacious against various diseases.
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Affiliation(s)
- Priyadarshini S Shettar
- Department of Biotechnology and Microbiology, Karnatak University, Dharwad, Karnataka, India
| | - Murigendra B Hiremath
- Department of Biotechnology and Microbiology, Karnatak University, Dharwad, Karnataka, India
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17
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Rhenals-Montoya P, Villamil L, Sánchez-Suárez J, Díaz L, Coy-Barrera E. Optimized carotenoid production and antioxidant capacity of Gordonia hongkongensis. Sci Prog 2024; 107:368504241253695. [PMID: 38801654 PMCID: PMC11135077 DOI: 10.1177/00368504241253695] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 05/29/2024]
Abstract
The current emphasis within the cosmetic market on sustainable ingredients has heightened the exploration of new sources for natural, active components. Actinomycetota, recognized for producing pigments with bioactive potential, offer promising functional cosmetic ingredients. This study aimed to optimize pigment and antioxidant metabolite production from the Gordonia hongkongensis strain EUFUS-Z928 by implementing the Plackett-Burman experimental design and response surface methodology. Extracts derived from this strain exhibited no cytotoxic activity against human primary dermal fibroblast (HDFa, ATCC® PCS-201-012™, Primary Dermal Fibroblast; Normal, Human, Adult). Eight variables, including inoculum concentration, carbon and nitrogen source concentration, NaCl concentration, pH, incubation time, temperature, and stirring speed, were analyzed using the Plackett-Burman experimental design. Subsequently, factors significantly influencing pigment and antioxidant metabolite production, such as temperature, inoculum concentration, and agitation speed, were further optimized using response surface methodology and Box-Behnken design. The results demonstrated a substantial increase in absorbance (from 0.091 to 0.32), DPPH radical scavenging capacity (from 27.60% to 84.61%), and ABTS radical scavenging capacity (from 17.39% to 79.77%) compared to responses obtained in the isolation medium. The validation of the mathematical model accuracy exceeded 90% for all cases. Furthermore, liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (LC-MS) facilitated the identification of compounds potentially responsible for enhanced pigment production and antioxidant capacity in extracts derived from G. hongkongensis. Specifically, six carotenoids, red-orange pigments with inherent antioxidant capacity, were identified as the main enhanced compounds. This comprehensive approach effectively optimized the culture conditions and medium of a G. hongkongensis strain, resulting in enhanced carotenoid production and antioxidant capacity. Beyond identifying bioactive compounds and their potential cosmetic applications, this study offers insights into the broader industrial applicability of these extracts. It underscores the potential of G. hongkongensis and hints at the future utilization of other untapped sources of rare actinomycetes within the industry.
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Affiliation(s)
- Paula Rhenals-Montoya
- Master in Process Design and Management, School of Engineering, Universidad de La Sabana, Chia, Colombia
- Bioprospecting Research Group, School of Engineering, Universidad de La Sabana, Chia, Colombia
| | - Luisa Villamil
- Agroindustrial Production Research Group, Doctorate of Biosciences, School of Engineering, Universidad de La Sabana, Chia, Colombia
| | - Jeysson Sánchez-Suárez
- Bioprospecting Research Group, School of Engineering, Universidad de La Sabana, Chia, Colombia
| | - Luis Díaz
- Bioprospecting Research Group, School of Engineering, Universidad de La Sabana, Chia, Colombia
- Agroindustrial Production Research Group, Doctorate of Biosciences, School of Engineering, Universidad de La Sabana, Chia, Colombia
| | - Ericsson Coy-Barrera
- Bioorganic Chemistry Laboratory, Universidad Militar Nueva Granada, Cajicá, Colombia
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18
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Sanjaya SS, Park MH, Karunarathne WAHM, Lee KT, Choi YH, Kang CH, Lee MH, Jung MJ, Ryu HW, Kim GY. Inhibition of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanogenesis and molecular mechanisms by polyphenol-enriched fraction of Tagetes erecta L. flower. PHYTOMEDICINE : INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF PHYTOTHERAPY AND PHYTOPHARMACOLOGY 2024; 126:155442. [PMID: 38394730 DOI: 10.1016/j.phymed.2024.155442] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 09/20/2023] [Revised: 01/30/2024] [Accepted: 02/08/2024] [Indexed: 02/25/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND The pursuit for safe and efficacious skin-whitening agents has prompted a dedicated exploration of plant-derived compounds. Notably, Tagetes erecta L. flowers have been used as a medicinal extract and possessed in vitro mushroom tyrosinase activity. However, whether polyphenol-enriched fraction extracted from T. erecta L. flowers (TE) regulates melanogenesis within cellular and animal models has not yet been investigated. PURPOSE This study aimed to investigate the effect of TE as a prospective inhibitor of melanogenesis. METHODS Through advanced UPLC-QTof/MS analysis, the components of TE were analyzed. Anti-melanogenic effects of TE were evaluated in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells by measuring cell viability assay, extracellular and intracellular melanin biosynthesis, cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) production, and melanogenesis-related gene and protein expression. Zebrafish larvae were employed for in vivo studies, assessing both heart rate and melanogenesis. Furthermore, molecular docking analyses were employed to predict the interaction between TE components and the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R). Direct binding activity of TE components to MC1R was compared with [Nle4, d-Phe7]-MSH (NDP-MSH). RESULTS TE was found to contain significant phenolic compounds such as patulitrin, quercetagetin, kaempferol, patuletin, and isorhamnetin. This study revealed that TE effectively inhibits melanin biosynthesis in both in vitro and in vivo models. This inhibition was attributed to interference of TE with the cAMP-cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB)-microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF)-tyrosinase pathway, which plays a pivotal role in regulating melanogenesis. Importantly, TE exhibited the remarkable ability to curtail α-MSH-induced melanogenesis in zebrafish larvae without impacting heart rates. Molecular docking analyses predicted that the components of TE possibly interact with the melanocortin 1 receptor, suggesting their role as potential inhibitors of melanin biosynthesis. However, through the direct binding activity compared with NDP-MSH, any TE components did not directly bind to MC1R, suggesting that TE inhibits α-MSH-induced melanogenesis by inhibiting the cAMP-mediated intracellular signaling pathway. The assessment of anti-melanogenic activity, conducted both in vitro and in vivo, revealed that patulitrin and patuletin exhibited significant inhibitory effects on melanin formation, highlighting their potency as major contributors. DISCUSSION This investigation demonstrated the considerable potential of TE as a natural remedy endowed with remarkable anti-melanogenic properties. The demonstrated capacity of TE to attenuate melanin production by modulating the cAMP-CREB-MITF-tyrosinase pathway underscores its central role in management of disorders associated with excessive pigmentation. Importantly, the implications of these findings extend to the cosmetics industry, where TE emerges as a prospective and valuable ingredient for the formulation of skin-whitening products. The elucidated interactions between TE components and MC1R not only provide insight into a potential mechanism of action but also elevate the significance of this study. In summary, this study not only contributes to our comprehension of pigmentation-related conditions but also firmly establishes TE as a secure and natural strategy for the regulation of melanin production. The innovative aspects of TE propel it into the forefront of potential interventions, marking a noteworthy advancement in the pursuit of effective and safe solutions for pigmentation disorders.
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Affiliation(s)
| | - Mi Hyeon Park
- Natural Product Research Center, Korea Research Institute of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Cheongju 28116, Republic of Korea
| | | | - Kyoung Tae Lee
- Forest Bioresources Department, Forest Microbiology Division, National Institute of Forest Science, Suwon 16631, Republic of Korea
| | - Yung Hyun Choi
- Department of Biochemistry, College of Korean Medicine, Dong-Eui University, Busan 47227, Republic of Korea
| | - Chang-Hee Kang
- Nakdonggang National Institute of Biological Resources, Sangju 37242, Republic of Korea
| | - Mi-Haw Lee
- Nakdonggang National Institute of Biological Resources, Sangju 37242, Republic of Korea
| | - Min-Jeong Jung
- GENE & BIO, 145 Sindae-ro, Jeju 63134, Republic of Korea
| | - Hyung Won Ryu
- Natural Product Research Center, Korea Research Institute of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Cheongju 28116, Republic of Korea.
| | - Gi-Young Kim
- Department of Marine Life Science, Jeju National University, Jeju 63243, Republic of Korea.
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19
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Lasota M, Lechwar P, Kukula-Koch W, Czop M, Czech K, Gaweł-Bęben K. Pulp or Peel? Comparative Analysis of the Phytochemical Content and Selected Cosmetic-Related Properties of Annona cherimola L., Diospyros kaki Thumb., Cydonia oblonga Mill. and Fortunella margarita Swingle Pulp and Peel Extracts. Molecules 2024; 29:1133. [PMID: 38474645 DOI: 10.3390/molecules29051133] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/10/2024] [Revised: 02/26/2024] [Accepted: 02/29/2024] [Indexed: 03/14/2024] Open
Abstract
Fruit peels might be a valuable source of active ingredients for cosmetics, leading to more sustainable usage of plant by-products. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical content and selected biological properties of hydroglycolic extracts from peels and pulps of Annona cherimola, Diospyros kaki, Cydonia oblonga, and Fortunella margarita as potential cosmetic ingredients. Peel and pulp extracts were compared for their antiradical activity (using DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays), skin-lightening potential (tyrosinase inhibitory assay), sun protection factor (SPF), and cytotoxicity toward human fibroblast, keratinocyte, and melanoma cell lines. The total content of polyphenols and/or flavonoids was significantly higher in peel than in pulp extracts, and the composition of particular active compounds was also markedly different. The HPLC-MS fingerprinting revealed the presence of catechin, epicatechin and rutoside in the peel of D. kaki, whereas kaempferol glucoside and procyanidin A were present only in the pulp. In A. cherimola, catechin, epicatechin and rutoside were identified only in the peel of the fruit, whereas procyanidins were traced only in the pulp extracts. Quercetin and luteolinidin were found to be characteristic compounds of F. margarita peel extract. Naringenin and hesperidin were found only in the pulp of F. margarita. The most significant compositional variety between the peel and pulp extracts was observed for C. oblonga: Peel extracts contained a higher number of active components (e.g., vicenin-2, kaempferol rutinoside, or kaempferol galactoside) than pulp extract. The radical scavenging potential of peel extracts was higher than of the pulp extracts. D. kaki and F. margarita peel and pulp extracts inhibited mushroom and murine tyrosinases at comparable levels. The C. oblonga pulp extract was a more potent mushroom tyrosinase inhibitor than the peel extract. Peel extract of A. cherimola inhibited mushroom tyrosinase but activated the murine enzyme. F. margarita pulp and peel extracts showed the highest in vitro SPF. A. cherimola, D. kaki, and F. margarita extracts were not cytotoxic for fibroblasts and keratinocytes up to a concentration of 2% (v/v) and the peel extracts were cytotoxic for A375 melanoma cells. To summarize, peel extracts from all analyzed fruit showed comparable or better cosmetic-related properties than pulp extracts and might be considered multifunctional active ingredients of skin lightening, anti-aging, and protective cosmetics.
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Affiliation(s)
- Magdalena Lasota
- Department of Cosmetology, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszów, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszów, Poland
| | - Paulina Lechwar
- Department of Cosmetology, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszów, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszów, Poland
| | - Wirginia Kukula-Koch
- Department of Pharmacognosy, Medical University of Lublin, Chodźki 1, 20-093 Lublin, Poland
| | - Marcin Czop
- Department of Clinical Genetics, Medical University of Lublin, Radziwiłłowska 11, 20-080 Lublin, Poland
| | - Karolina Czech
- Department of Cosmetology, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszów, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszów, Poland
| | - Katarzyna Gaweł-Bęben
- Department of Cosmetology, University of Information Technology and Management in Rzeszów, Sucharskiego 2, 35-225 Rzeszów, Poland
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20
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Bhat AM, Haroon R, Naikoo S, Sharma RR, Archoo S, Tasduq SA. (2-Methylbutyryl)shikonin Naturally Occurring Shikonin Derivative Ameliorates the α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis via ERK1/2 and p38 MAP Kinase-Mediated Down-Regulation of the MITF Transcription Factor. Chem Res Toxicol 2024; 37:274-284. [PMID: 38271289 DOI: 10.1021/acs.chemrestox.3c00283] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/27/2024]
Abstract
Cutaneous pigmentation is an important phenotypic trait whose regulation, despite recent advances, has yet to be completely elucidated. Melanogenesis, a physiological process of melanin production, is imperative for organism survival as it provides protection against the environmental insults that majorly involve sunlight-induced skin photodamage. However, immoderate melanin synthesis can cause pigmentation disorders associated with a psychosocial impact. In this study, the hypopigmentation effect of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin, a natural product present in the root extract of Lithospermum erythrorhizon, and the underlying mechanisms responsible for the inhibition of melanin synthesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells and C57BL/6J mice was studied. Non-cytotoxic concentrations of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin significantly repressed cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in both in vitro and in vivo models (C57BL/6J mice). (2-Methylbutyryl)shikonin remarkably abolished the protein expression of MITF, tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and tyrosinase-related protein 2, thereby blocking the production of pigment melanin via modulating the phosphorylation status of MAPK proteins, viz., ERK1/2 and p38. In addition, specific inhibition of ERK1/2 attenuated the inhibitory effects of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin on melanin synthesis, whereas selective inhibition of p38 augmented the inhibitory effect of BSHK on melanin synthesis. Moreover, topical application of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin on C57BL/6J mouse tails remarkably induced tail depigmentation. In conclusion, with these findings, we, for the first time, report the hypopigmentation effect of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin via inhibition of cellular tyrosinase enzyme activity, subsequently ameliorating the melanin production, thereby indicating that (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin is a potential natural therapy for hyperpigmentation disorders.
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Affiliation(s)
- Aalim Maqsood Bhat
- Pharmacology Division, Council of Scientific and Industrial Research-Indian Institute of Integrative Medicine, Jammu, Jammu and Kashmir 180001, India
- Academy of Scientific and Innovative Research (AcSIR), Ghaziabad, Uttar Pradesh 201002, India
| | - Rashid Haroon
- Sher-e-Kashmir Institute of Medical Sciences, Srinagar, Jammu and Kashmir 190011, India
| | - Shahid Naikoo
- Pharmacology Division, Council of Scientific and Industrial Research-Indian Institute of Integrative Medicine, Jammu, Jammu and Kashmir 180001, India
- Academy of Scientific and Innovative Research (AcSIR), Ghaziabad, Uttar Pradesh 201002, India
| | - Raghu Rai Sharma
- Pharmacology Division, Council of Scientific and Industrial Research-Indian Institute of Integrative Medicine, Jammu, Jammu and Kashmir 180001, India
- Academy of Scientific and Innovative Research (AcSIR), Ghaziabad, Uttar Pradesh 201002, India
| | - Sajeeda Archoo
- Pharmacology Division, Council of Scientific and Industrial Research-Indian Institute of Integrative Medicine, Jammu, Jammu and Kashmir 180001, India
- Academy of Scientific and Innovative Research (AcSIR), Ghaziabad, Uttar Pradesh 201002, India
| | - Sheikh A Tasduq
- Pharmacology Division, Council of Scientific and Industrial Research-Indian Institute of Integrative Medicine, Jammu, Jammu and Kashmir 180001, India
- Academy of Scientific and Innovative Research (AcSIR), Ghaziabad, Uttar Pradesh 201002, India
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21
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Di Lorenzo R, Maisto M, Ricci L, Piccolo V, Marzocchi A, Greco G, Tenore GC, Laneri S. Annurca Apple Oleolite as Functional Ingredient for the Formulation of Cosmetics with Skin-Antiaging Activity. Int J Mol Sci 2024; 25:1677. [PMID: 38338954 PMCID: PMC10855134 DOI: 10.3390/ijms25031677] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/13/2023] [Revised: 01/22/2024] [Accepted: 01/24/2024] [Indexed: 02/12/2024] Open
Abstract
The identification of natural remedies for the management of the skin aging process is an increasingly growing issue. In this context, ursolic acid (UA), a ubiquitous molecule, mainly contained in Annurca apple (AA) fruit, has demonstrated valuable cosmetic potential. To this end, in the current study, the AA oleolite (AAO, extract in sunflower oil containing 784.40 ± 7.579 µg/mL of UA) was evaluated to inhibit porcine elastase enzymatic reactions through a validated spectrophotometric method. AAO has shown a valuable capacity to contrast the elastase enzyme with a calculated IC50 of 212.76 mg/mL, in comparison to UA (IC50 of 135.24 μg/mL) pure molecules and quercetin (IC50 of 72.47 μg/mL) which are used as positive controls. In this context and in view of the valuable antioxidant potential of AAO, its topical formulation with 2.5% (w/w) AAO was tested in a placebo-controlled, double-blind, two-arm clinical study on 40 volunteers. Our results indicated that after 28 days of treatment, a significant reduction of the nasolabial fold (-7.2 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) and forehead wrinkles (-5.3 vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001) were registered in combination with a valuable improvement of the viscoelastic skin parameters, where skin pliability/firmness (R0) and gross elasticity (R2) were significantly ameliorated (-13% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R0 and +12% vs. baseline T0, p < 0.001 for R2). Finally, considering the positive correlation between skin elasticity and hydration, the skin moisture was evaluated through the estimation of Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin conductance.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ritamaria Di Lorenzo
- RD Cosmetics, Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Naples, Italy; (R.D.L.); (L.R.); (G.G.); (S.L.)
| | - Maria Maisto
- ChimNutra Labs, Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Naples, Italy; (V.P.); (A.M.); (G.C.T.)
| | - Lucia Ricci
- RD Cosmetics, Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Naples, Italy; (R.D.L.); (L.R.); (G.G.); (S.L.)
| | - Vincenzo Piccolo
- ChimNutra Labs, Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Naples, Italy; (V.P.); (A.M.); (G.C.T.)
| | - Adua Marzocchi
- ChimNutra Labs, Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Naples, Italy; (V.P.); (A.M.); (G.C.T.)
| | - Giovanni Greco
- RD Cosmetics, Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Naples, Italy; (R.D.L.); (L.R.); (G.G.); (S.L.)
| | - Gian Carlo Tenore
- ChimNutra Labs, Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Naples, Italy; (V.P.); (A.M.); (G.C.T.)
| | - Sonia Laneri
- RD Cosmetics, Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Naples, Italy; (R.D.L.); (L.R.); (G.G.); (S.L.)
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22
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Ramata-Stunda A, Boroduskis M, Pastare L, Berga M, Kienkas L, Patetko L, Skudrins G, Reihmane D, Nakurte I. In Vitro Safety and Efficacy Evaluation of a Juniperus communis Callus Culture Extract and Matricaria recutita Processing Waste Extract Combination as a Cosmetic Ingredient. PLANTS (BASEL, SWITZERLAND) 2024; 13:287. [PMID: 38256840 PMCID: PMC10818699 DOI: 10.3390/plants13020287] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/31/2023] [Revised: 01/15/2024] [Accepted: 01/16/2024] [Indexed: 01/24/2024]
Abstract
For skin health promotion and cosmetic applications, combinations of plant cell extracts are extensively utilized. As most natural ingredient suppliers offer crude extracts from individual plants or specific isolated compounds, the potential interactions between them are assessed in the development phase of cosmetic products. The industry seeks extract combinations that have undergone optimization and scrutiny for their bioactivities. This study presents a combination of two sustainably produced botanical ingredients and outlines their chemical composition, in vitro safety, and bioactivity for skin health enhancement. The amalgamation comprises the extract of Matricaria recutita processing waste and the extract from Juniperus communis callus culture. Chemical analysis revealed distinct compounds within the extracts, and their combination led to a broader array of potentially synergistic compounds. In vitro assessments on skin cells demonstrated that the combination possesses robust antioxidant properties and the ability to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation, along with regulating collagen type I and matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) production by dermal fibroblasts. The identified traits of this combination render it an appealing cosmetic component. To the best of our knowledge, this represents the first case when the extracts derived from medicinal plant processing waste and biotechnological plant cell cultivation processes have been combined and evaluated for their bioactivity.
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Affiliation(s)
- Anna Ramata-Stunda
- Alternative Plants, Ltd., 2 Podraga Str., LV-1007 Riga, Latvia; (M.B.); (D.R.)
| | - Martins Boroduskis
- Alternative Plants, Ltd., 2 Podraga Str., LV-1007 Riga, Latvia; (M.B.); (D.R.)
| | - Laura Pastare
- Institute for Environmental Solutions, “Lidlauks”, Priekuli Parish, LV-4126 Cesis, Latvia; (L.P.); (M.B.); (G.S.); (I.N.)
| | - Marta Berga
- Institute for Environmental Solutions, “Lidlauks”, Priekuli Parish, LV-4126 Cesis, Latvia; (L.P.); (M.B.); (G.S.); (I.N.)
| | - Liene Kienkas
- Field and Forest, Ltd., 2 Izstades Str., Priekuli Parish, LV-4126 Cesis, Latvia;
| | - Liene Patetko
- Faculty of Biology, University of Lavia, 1 Jelgavas Str., LV-1004 Riga, Latvia;
| | - Gundars Skudrins
- Institute for Environmental Solutions, “Lidlauks”, Priekuli Parish, LV-4126 Cesis, Latvia; (L.P.); (M.B.); (G.S.); (I.N.)
| | - Dace Reihmane
- Alternative Plants, Ltd., 2 Podraga Str., LV-1007 Riga, Latvia; (M.B.); (D.R.)
| | - Ilva Nakurte
- Institute for Environmental Solutions, “Lidlauks”, Priekuli Parish, LV-4126 Cesis, Latvia; (L.P.); (M.B.); (G.S.); (I.N.)
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23
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Elvebakken HF, Christensen IB, Vedel C, Kjaerulff S. A proof of concept: Clinical anti-aging efficacy and safety of Lactiplantibacillus plantarum LB244R® applied topically in a double-blinded placebo-controlled study. J Cosmet Dermatol 2024. [PMID: 38174442 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.16138] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/02/2023] [Revised: 12/05/2023] [Accepted: 12/08/2023] [Indexed: 01/05/2024]
Abstract
BACKGROUND With the increasing age of the westernized population, there is also increasing economic and aesthetic interest in reducing the signs of skin aging. Additionally, the physical aspect of aging can be displeasing and have detrimental effects psychologically in individuals. Probiotics have shown potential as anti-aging agents, albeit proper studies are needed to confirm their potential. AIMS Proving that Lactiplantibacillus plantarum LB244R® could alleviate aging signs relative to its placebo vehicle. PATIENTS/METHODS In total, 46 subjects were randomly assigned either the ointment with live bacteria, L. plantarum LB244R® or its vehicle ointment, and had to use the assigned ointment twice daily for 56 days. On Day 0, Day 28, and Day 56 subepidermal low echogenic band (SLEB) thickness, dermal density, skin firmness and elasticity, skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH, collagen fiber visualization using confocal microscopy, Crow's feet, spot score, skin smoothness, and complexion radiance were assessed by dermatologists. RESULTS All parameters except TEWL improved relative to their baseline (D0) for the active group. L. plantarum LB244R® improved SLEB thickness, dermal density, skin elasticity, skin hydration, and Crow's feet wrinkle score relative to the placebo vehicle ointment. CONCLUSION The study demonstrates an anti-aging effect of L. plantarum LB244R® for topical skin use in the first double-blinded, vehicle-ointment placebo-controlled clinical study.
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24
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Grădinaru TC, Vlad A, Gilca M. Bitter Phytochemicals as Novel Candidates for Skin Disease Treatment. Curr Issues Mol Biol 2023; 46:299-326. [PMID: 38248322 PMCID: PMC10814078 DOI: 10.3390/cimb46010020] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/27/2023] [Revised: 12/21/2023] [Accepted: 12/26/2023] [Indexed: 01/23/2024] Open
Abstract
Skin diseases represent a global healthcare challenge due to their rising incidence and substantial socio-economic burden. While biological, immunological, and targeted therapies have brought a revolution in improving quality of life and survival rates for certain dermatological conditions, there remains a stringent demand for new remedies. Nature has long served as an inspiration for drug development. Recent studies have identified bitter taste receptors (TAS2Rs) in both skin cell lines and human skin. Additionally, bitter natural compounds have shown promising benefits in addressing skin aging, wound healing, inflammatory skin conditions, and even skin cancer. Thus, TAS2Rs may represent a promising target in all these processes. In this review, we summarize evidence supporting the presence of TAS2Rs in the skin and emphasize their potential as drug targets for addressing skin aging, wound healing, inflammatory skin conditions, and skin carcinogenesis. To our knowledge, this is a pioneering work in connecting information on TAS2Rs expression in skin and skin cells with the impact of bitter phytochemicals on various beneficial effects related to skin disorders.
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Affiliation(s)
- Teodora-Cristiana Grădinaru
- Department of Functional Sciences I/Biochemistry, Faculty of Medicine, Carol Davila University of Medicine and Pharmacy, 050474 Bucharest, Romania; (T.-C.G.); (M.G.)
| | - Adelina Vlad
- Department of Functional Sciences I/Physiology, Faculty of Medicine, Carol Davila University of Medicine and Pharmacy, 050474 Bucharest, Romania
| | - Marilena Gilca
- Department of Functional Sciences I/Biochemistry, Faculty of Medicine, Carol Davila University of Medicine and Pharmacy, 050474 Bucharest, Romania; (T.-C.G.); (M.G.)
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25
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Siridechakorn I, Pimpa J, Choodej S, Ngamrojanavanich N, Pudhom K. Synergistic impact of arbutin and kaempferol-7-O-α-L-rhamnopyranoside from Nephelium lappaceum L. on whitening efficacy and stability of cosmetic formulations. Sci Rep 2023; 13:22004. [PMID: 38086982 PMCID: PMC10716148 DOI: 10.1038/s41598-023-49351-3] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/12/2023] [Accepted: 12/07/2023] [Indexed: 12/18/2023] Open
Abstract
Four flavonoid glycosides, namely quercetin-3-O-rhamnoside (1), kaempferol-3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl (2), kaempferol-7-O-α-L-rhamnopyranoside (3), and kaempferol-3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-7-O-α-L-rhamnopyranoside (4), from Nephelium lappaceum L. seeds were evaluated for their efficacy against melanin inhibition in B16F10 melanoma cells and tyrosinase inhibition. Among them, kaempferol-7-O-α-L-rhamnopyranoside (3) displayed the highest potency in both activities without any significant cytotoxicity. The combination of compound 3 and arbutin in specific proportions demonstrated a synergistic effect (CI < 1) in inhibiting melanin production in B16F10 cells and tyrosinase inhibition. Additionally, a cosmetic formulation containing compound 3 and arbutin as active ingredients exhibited favorable stability under accelerated storage conditions. Quantitative analysis indicated that compound 3 and arbutin levels in the formulation were above 90% after one month of storage. Determination of the formulation's shelf life using the Q10 method, estimating it to be around 5.2 months from the date of manufacture. The synergy between arbutin and kaempferol-7-O-α-L-rhamnopyranoside (3) extracted from N. lappaceum substantially enhances both the whitening effectiveness and the stability of cosmetic formulations.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ittipon Siridechakorn
- Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Science, Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok, 10330, Thailand
| | - Junsuda Pimpa
- Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Science, Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok, 10330, Thailand
| | - Siwattra Choodej
- Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Science, King Mongkut's University of Technology, Thonburi, 10140, Thailand
| | | | - Khanitha Pudhom
- Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Science, Chulalongkorn University, Bangkok, 10330, Thailand.
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26
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Mansoor K, Aburjai T, Al-Mamoori F, Schmidt M. Plants with cosmetic uses. Phytother Res 2023; 37:5755-5768. [PMID: 37770185 DOI: 10.1002/ptr.8019] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/12/2023] [Revised: 08/16/2023] [Accepted: 09/11/2023] [Indexed: 10/03/2023]
Abstract
The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.
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Affiliation(s)
- Kenza Mansoor
- Department of Pharmaceutical Medicinal Chemistry and Pharmacognosy, Faculty of Pharmacy and Medical Sciences, University of Petra, Amman, Jordan
| | - Talal Aburjai
- Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Jordan, Amman, Jordan
| | - Farah Al-Mamoori
- Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, Zarqa University, Zarqa, Jordan
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27
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Papavasileiou P, Koutras S, Koutra E, Ali SS, Kornaros M. A novel rice hull - microalgal biorefinery for the production of natural phenolic compounds comprising of rice hull acid pretreatment and a two-stage Botryococcus braunii cultivation process. BIORESOURCE TECHNOLOGY 2023; 387:129621. [PMID: 37544534 DOI: 10.1016/j.biortech.2023.129621] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/03/2023] [Revised: 07/31/2023] [Accepted: 08/01/2023] [Indexed: 08/08/2023]
Abstract
Recently, the rising demand of the industry for natural phenolic antioxidant compounds has turned to the study of microalgae as potential sources. Yet, more economic substrates for microalgal cultivation are sought to lower production costs. To this end, the present work deals with the utilization of rice hull hydrolysate (RHH) as substrate for microalgae Botryococcus braunii through a novel two-stage cultivation system. Initially, RHH was optimized to maximize the contained nutrients while minimizing its inhibitors content. The optimum point was reached under 121 °C, 60 min, 2% (v/v) H2SO4, 30% (w/v) loading. Next, B. braunii was successfully grown first heterotrophically in RHH (25%, v/v), obtaining high biomass production (6.67 g L-1) and then autotrophically to enhance phenolics accumulation. At the end, a high phenolic content of 7.44 ± 0.60 mg Gallic Acid Equivalents g-1 DW was achieved from the produced biomass, thus highlighting the potential of this novel biotechnological method.
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Affiliation(s)
- Polytimi Papavasileiou
- Laboratory of Biochemical Engineering and Environmental Technologies (LBEET), Department of Chemical Engineering, University of Patras, 26504 Patras, Greece; Institute of Circular Economy and Environment (ICEE), University of Patras' Research and Development Center, 26504 Patras, Greece
| | - Stamatis Koutras
- Laboratory of Biochemical Engineering and Environmental Technologies (LBEET), Department of Chemical Engineering, University of Patras, 26504 Patras, Greece; Institute of Circular Economy and Environment (ICEE), University of Patras' Research and Development Center, 26504 Patras, Greece
| | - Eleni Koutra
- Laboratory of Biochemical Engineering and Environmental Technologies (LBEET), Department of Chemical Engineering, University of Patras, 26504 Patras, Greece; Institute of Circular Economy and Environment (ICEE), University of Patras' Research and Development Center, 26504 Patras, Greece
| | - Sameh S Ali
- Botany Department, Faculty of Science, Tanta University, Tanta 31527, Egypt; Biofuels Institute, School of the Environment and Safety Engineering, Jiangsu University, Zhenjiang 212013, China
| | - Michael Kornaros
- Laboratory of Biochemical Engineering and Environmental Technologies (LBEET), Department of Chemical Engineering, University of Patras, 26504 Patras, Greece; Institute of Circular Economy and Environment (ICEE), University of Patras' Research and Development Center, 26504 Patras, Greece.
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28
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Dione M, Watkins RH, Aimonetti JM, Jourdain R, Ackerley R. Effects of skin moisturization on various aspects of touch showing differences with age and skin site. Sci Rep 2023; 13:17977. [PMID: 37863946 PMCID: PMC10589338 DOI: 10.1038/s41598-023-44895-w] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/21/2023] [Accepted: 10/13/2023] [Indexed: 10/22/2023] Open
Abstract
The human body is encompassed by a thin layer of tissue, the skin, which is heterogenous and highly specialized to protect the body and encode interactions with the external world. There is a fundamental scientific drive to understand its function, coupled with the need to preserve skin as we age, which impacts on our physiological and psychological well-being. In the present study, we aimed to define differences in touch perception between age groups and with skin cream application. We investigated touch on the finger, the forearm and cheek in younger (20-28 years, n = 22) and older (65-75 years, n = 22) females. We measured skin hydration, touch detection, finger spatial discrimination, forearm tactile pleasantness together with electrodermal activity, and perceptual ratings about cream use, skin dryness, and cosmetic habits. Glabrous finger skin became drier and touch performance was impaired with age, but these aspects were preserved in hairy skin. Skin moisturization immediately increased hydration levels, but did not significantly change touch perception. We also found that touch appreciation increased with age. We conclude that reduced finger capacity may impact self-evaluation of the skin and that long-term skin care strategies should focus on hydrating the hand to preserve touch capacities.
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Affiliation(s)
- Mariama Dione
- Aix Marseille Univ, LNC (Laboratoire de Neurosciences Cognitives - UMR 7291), CNRS, Marseille, France
| | - Roger Holmes Watkins
- Aix Marseille Univ, LNC (Laboratoire de Neurosciences Cognitives - UMR 7291), CNRS, Marseille, France
| | - Jean-Marc Aimonetti
- Aix Marseille Univ, LNC (Laboratoire de Neurosciences Cognitives - UMR 7291), CNRS, Marseille, France
| | | | - Rochelle Ackerley
- Aix Marseille Univ, LNC (Laboratoire de Neurosciences Cognitives - UMR 7291), CNRS, Marseille, France.
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29
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Christaki S, Spanidi E, Panagiotidou E, Athanasopoulou S, Kyriakoudi A, Mourtzinos I, Gardikis K. Cyclodextrins for the Delivery of Bioactive Compounds from Natural Sources: Medicinal, Food and Cosmetics Applications. Pharmaceuticals (Basel) 2023; 16:1274. [PMID: 37765082 PMCID: PMC10535610 DOI: 10.3390/ph16091274] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/31/2023] [Revised: 08/30/2023] [Accepted: 09/05/2023] [Indexed: 09/29/2023] Open
Abstract
Cyclodextrins have gained significant and established attention as versatile carriers for the delivery of bioactive compounds derived from natural sources in various applications, including medicine, food and cosmetics. Their toroidal structure and hydrophobic cavity render them ideal candidates for encapsulating and solubilizing hydrophobic and poorly soluble compounds. Most medicinal, food and cosmetic ingredients share the challenges of hydrophobicity and degradation that can be effectively addressed by various cyclodextrin types. Though not new or novel-their first applications appeared in the market in the 1970s-their versatility has inspired numerous developments, either on the academic or industrial level. This review article provides an overview of the ever-growing applications of cyclodextrins in the delivery of bioactive compounds from natural sources and their potential application benefits.
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Affiliation(s)
- Stamatia Christaki
- Laboratory of Food Chemistry and Biochemistry, School of Agriculture, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki (AUTH), 54124 Thessaloniki, Greece; (S.C.); (A.K.); (I.M.)
| | - Eleni Spanidi
- APIVITA SA, Industrial Park, Markopoulo, 19003 Athens, Greece; (E.S.); (E.P.); (S.A.)
| | - Eleni Panagiotidou
- APIVITA SA, Industrial Park, Markopoulo, 19003 Athens, Greece; (E.S.); (E.P.); (S.A.)
| | - Sophia Athanasopoulou
- APIVITA SA, Industrial Park, Markopoulo, 19003 Athens, Greece; (E.S.); (E.P.); (S.A.)
| | - Anastasia Kyriakoudi
- Laboratory of Food Chemistry and Biochemistry, School of Agriculture, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki (AUTH), 54124 Thessaloniki, Greece; (S.C.); (A.K.); (I.M.)
| | - Ioannis Mourtzinos
- Laboratory of Food Chemistry and Biochemistry, School of Agriculture, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki (AUTH), 54124 Thessaloniki, Greece; (S.C.); (A.K.); (I.M.)
| | - Konstantinos Gardikis
- APIVITA SA, Industrial Park, Markopoulo, 19003 Athens, Greece; (E.S.); (E.P.); (S.A.)
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30
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Nicholas-Haizelden K, Murphy B, Hoptroff M, Horsburgh MJ. Bioprospecting the Skin Microbiome: Advances in Therapeutics and Personal Care Products. Microorganisms 2023; 11:1899. [PMID: 37630459 PMCID: PMC10456854 DOI: 10.3390/microorganisms11081899] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 6.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/20/2023] [Revised: 07/20/2023] [Accepted: 07/25/2023] [Indexed: 08/27/2023] Open
Abstract
Bioprospecting is the discovery and exploration of biological diversity found within organisms, genetic elements or produced compounds with prospective commercial or therapeutic applications. The human skin is an ecological niche which harbours a rich and compositional diversity microbiome stemming from the multifactorial interactions between the host and microbiota facilitated by exploitable effector compounds. Advances in the understanding of microbial colonisation mechanisms alongside species and strain interactions have revealed a novel chemical and biological understanding which displays applicative potential. Studies elucidating the organismal interfaces and concomitant understanding of the central processes of skin biology have begun to unravel a potential wealth of molecules which can exploited for their proposed functions. A variety of skin-microbiome-derived compounds display prospective therapeutic applications, ranging from antioncogenic agents relevant in skin cancer therapy to treatment strategies for antimicrobial-resistant bacterial and fungal infections. Considerable opportunities have emerged for the translation to personal care products, such as topical agents to mitigate various skin conditions such as acne and eczema. Adjacent compound developments have focused on cosmetic applications such as reducing skin ageing and its associated changes to skin properties and the microbiome. The skin microbiome contains a wealth of prospective compounds with therapeutic and commercial applications; however, considerable work is required for the translation of in vitro findings to relevant in vivo models to ensure translatability.
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Affiliation(s)
- Keir Nicholas-Haizelden
- Institute of Infection, Veterinary and Ecological Sciences, University of Liverpool, Liverpool L69 3BX, UK;
| | - Barry Murphy
- Unilever Research & Development, Port Sunlight, Wirral CH63 3JW, UK; (B.M.); (M.H.)
| | - Michael Hoptroff
- Unilever Research & Development, Port Sunlight, Wirral CH63 3JW, UK; (B.M.); (M.H.)
| | - Malcolm J. Horsburgh
- Institute of Infection, Veterinary and Ecological Sciences, University of Liverpool, Liverpool L69 3BX, UK;
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31
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Wawoczny A, Gillner D. The Most Potent Natural Pharmaceuticals, Cosmetics, and Food Ingredients Isolated from Plants with Deep Eutectic Solvents. JOURNAL OF AGRICULTURAL AND FOOD CHEMISTRY 2023. [PMID: 37433265 PMCID: PMC10375538 DOI: 10.1021/acs.jafc.3c01656] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 07/13/2023]
Abstract
There is growing interest in reducing the number of synthetic products or additives and replacing them with natural ones. The pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and food industries are especially focused on natural and bioactive chemicals isolated from plants or microorganisms. The main challenge here is to develop efficient and ecological methods for their isolation. According to the strategies and rules of sustainable development and green chemistry, green solvents and environmentally friendly technologies must be used. The application of deep eutectic solvents as efficient and biodegradable solvents seems to be a promising alternative to traditional methods. They are classified as being green and ecological but, most importantly, very efficient extraction media compared to organic solvents. The aim of this review is to present the recent findings on green extraction, as well as the biological activities and the possible applications of natural plant ingredients, namely, phenolics, flavonoids, terpenes, saponins, and some others. This paper thoroughly reviews modern, ecological, and efficient extraction methods with the use of deep eutectic solvents (DESs). The newest findings, as well as the factors influencing the efficiency of extraction, such as water content, and hydrogen bond donor and acceptor types, as well as the extraction systems, are also discussed. New solutions to the major problem of separating DESs from the extract and for solvent recycling are also presented.
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Affiliation(s)
- Agata Wawoczny
- Department of Organic Chemistry, Bioorganic Chemistry and Biotechnology, Faculty of Chemistry, Silesian University of Technology, 44-100 Gliwice, Poland
- Biotechnology Centre, Silesian University of Technology, 44-100 Gliwice, Poland
| | - Danuta Gillner
- Department of Organic Chemistry, Bioorganic Chemistry and Biotechnology, Faculty of Chemistry, Silesian University of Technology, 44-100 Gliwice, Poland
- Biotechnology Centre, Silesian University of Technology, 44-100 Gliwice, Poland
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32
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Wang JH, Hwang SJ, Lee SK, Choi Y, Byun CK, Son CG. Anti-Melanogenic Effects of Fractioned Cynanchum atratum by Regulation of cAMP/MITF Pathway in a UVB-Stimulated Mice Model. Cells 2023; 12:1390. [PMID: 37408224 DOI: 10.3390/cells12101390] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/31/2023] [Revised: 05/10/2023] [Accepted: 05/12/2023] [Indexed: 07/07/2023] Open
Abstract
Based on traditional pharmacological applications and partial in vitro data, Cynanchum atratum (CA) is proposed to act on skin whitening. However, its functional evaluation and underlying mechanisms have yet to be identified. This study aimed to examine the anti-melanogenesis activity of CA fraction B (CAFB) on UVB-induced skin hyperpigmentation. Forty C57BL/6j mice were exposed to UVB (100 mJ/cm2, five times/week) for eight weeks. After irradiation, CAFB was applied to the left ear once a day for 8 weeks (the right ear served as an internal control). The results showed that CAFB significantly reduced melanin production in the ear skin, as indicated by the gray value and Mexameter melanin index. In addition, CAFB treatment notably decreased melanin production in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 melanocytes, along with a significant reduction in tyrosinase activity. Cellular cAMP (cyclic adenosine monophosphate), MITF (microphthalmia-associated transcription factor), and tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP1) were also noticeably downregulated by CAFB. In conclusion, CAFB is a promising ingredient for treating skin disorders caused by the overproduction of melanin and its underlying mechanisms involving the modulation of tyrosinase, mainly mediated by the regulation of the cAMP cascade and MITF pathway.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jing-Hua Wang
- Institute of Bioscience & Integrative Medicine, Daejeon University, 75, Daedeok-daero 176, Seo-gu, Daejeon 35235, Republic of Korea
| | - Seung-Ju Hwang
- Institute of Bioscience & Integrative Medicine, Daejeon University, 75, Daedeok-daero 176, Seo-gu, Daejeon 35235, Republic of Korea
| | - Sam-Keun Lee
- Department of Applied Chemistry, Daejeon University, Daejeon 34520, Republic of Korea
| | - Yujin Choi
- Department of Internal Medicine, College of Korean Medicine, Se-Myung University, Jecheon-si 27136, Republic of Korea
| | - Chang Kyu Byun
- Department of Applied Chemistry, Daejeon University, Daejeon 34520, Republic of Korea
| | - Chang-Gue Son
- Institute of Bioscience & Integrative Medicine, Daejeon University, 75, Daedeok-daero 176, Seo-gu, Daejeon 35235, Republic of Korea
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Zolghadri S, Beygi M, Mohammad TF, Alijanianzadeh M, Pillaiyar T, Garcia-Molina P, Garcia-Canovas F, Luis Munoz-Munoz J, Akbar Saboury A. Targeting Tyrosinase in Hyperpigmentation: Current Status, Limitations and Future Promises. Biochem Pharmacol 2023; 212:115574. [PMID: 37127249 DOI: 10.1016/j.bcp.2023.115574] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/19/2023] [Revised: 04/21/2023] [Accepted: 04/24/2023] [Indexed: 05/03/2023]
Abstract
Hyperpigmentation is a common and distressing dermatologic condition. Since tyrosinase (TYR) plays an essential role in melanogenesis, its inhibition is considered a logical approach along with other therapeutic methods to prevent the accumulation of melanin in the skin. Thus, TYR inhibitors are a tempting target as the medicinal and cosmetic active agents of hyperpigmentation disorder. Among TYR inhibitors, hydroquinone is a traditional lightening agent that is commonly used in clinical practice. However, despite good efficacy, prolonged use of hydroquinone is associated with side effects. To overcome these shortcomings, new approaches in targeting TYR and treating hyperpigmentation are desperately requiredessentialneeded. In line with this purpose, several non-hydroquinone lightening agents have been developed and suggested as hydroquinone alternatives. In addition to traditional approaches, nanomedicine and nanotheranostic platforms have been recently proposed in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. In this review, we discuss the available strategies for the management of hyperpigmentation with a focus on TYR inhibition. In addition, alternative treatment options to hydroquinone are discussed. Finally, we present nano-based strategies to improve the therapeutic effect of drugs prescribed to patients with skin disorders.
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Affiliation(s)
- Samaneh Zolghadri
- Department of Biology, Jahrom Branch, Islamic Azad University, Jahrom, Iran.
| | - Mohammad Beygi
- Department of Agricultural Biotechnology, College of Agriculture, Isfahan University of Technology, Isfahan, Iran
| | | | - Mahdi Alijanianzadeh
- Department of Cell & Molecular Biology, Faculty of Biological Sciences, Kharazmi University, Tehran, Iran
| | - Thanigaimalai Pillaiyar
- Institute of Pharmacy, Pharmaceutical/Medicinal Chemistry and Tuebingen Center for Academic Drug Discovery, Eberhard Karls University Tübingen, Auf der Morgenstelle 8, 72076 Tübingen, Germany
| | - Pablo Garcia-Molina
- GENZ-Group of Research on Enzymology, Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology-A, Regional Campus of International Excellence "Campus Mare Nostrum", University of Murcia, Espinardo, Murcia, Spain
| | - Francisco Garcia-Canovas
- GENZ-Group of Research on Enzymology, Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology-A, Regional Campus of International Excellence "Campus Mare Nostrum", University of Murcia, Espinardo, Murcia, Spain
| | - Jose Luis Munoz-Munoz
- Microbial Enzymology Lab, Department of Applied Sciences, Ellison Building A, University of Northumbria, Newcastle Upon Tyne, UK
| | - Ali Akbar Saboury
- Institute of Biochemistry and Biophysics, University of Tehran, Tehran, Iran.
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Torres A, Rego L, Martins MS, Ferreira MS, Cruz MT, Sousa E, Almeida IF. How to Promote Skin Repair? In-Depth Look at Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Strategies. Pharmaceuticals (Basel) 2023; 16:ph16040573. [PMID: 37111330 PMCID: PMC10144563 DOI: 10.3390/ph16040573] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/06/2023] [Revised: 04/03/2023] [Accepted: 04/08/2023] [Indexed: 04/29/2023] Open
Abstract
Skin repair encompasses epidermal barrier repair and wound healing which involves multiple cellular and molecular stages. Therefore, many skin repair strategies have been proposed. In order to characterize the usage frequency of skin repair ingredients in cosmetics, medicines, and medical devices, commercialized in Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies, a comprehensive analysis of the products' composition was performed. A total of 120 cosmetic products, collected from national pharmacies online platforms, 21 topical medicines, and 46 medical devices, collected from INFARMED database, were included in the study, revealing the top 10 most used skin repair ingredients in these categories. A critical review regarding the effectiveness of the top ingredients was performed and an in-depth analysis focused on the top three skin repair ingredients pursued. Results demonstrated that top three most used cosmetic ingredients were metal salts and oxides (78.3%), vitamin E and its derivatives (54.2%), and Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. extract and actives (35.8%). Regarding medicines, metal salts and oxides were also the most used (47.4%) followed by vitamin B5 and derivatives (23.8%), and vitamin A and derivatives (26.3%). Silicones and derivatives were the most common skin repair ingredients in medical devices (33%), followed by petrolatum and derivatives (22%) and alginate (15%). This work provides an overview of the most used skin repair ingredients, highlighting their different mechanisms of action, aiming to provide an up-to-date tool to support health professionals' decisions.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ana Torres
- UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
- Associate Laboratory i4HB, Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
| | - Liliana Rego
- UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
- Associate Laboratory i4HB, Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
| | - Márcia S Martins
- Laboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
- CIIMAR-Interdisciplinary Centre of Marine and Environmental Research, Avenida General Norton de Matos, S/N, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal
| | - Marta S Ferreira
- UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
- Associate Laboratory i4HB, Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
| | - Maria T Cruz
- Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, 3004-531 Coimbra, Portugal
- Center for Neuroscience and Cell Biology, 3004-504 Coimbra, Portugal
| | - Emília Sousa
- Laboratory of Organic and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
- CIIMAR-Interdisciplinary Centre of Marine and Environmental Research, Avenida General Norton de Matos, S/N, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal
| | - Isabel F Almeida
- UCIBIO-Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
- Associate Laboratory i4HB, Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
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Guo ZJ, Liu Y, Yang JY, Jin MY, Mao PW, Zhou XW. Evaluating the Application Potential of a Recombinant Ganoderma Protein as Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmetics. Molecules 2023; 28:molecules28073272. [PMID: 37050035 PMCID: PMC10096787 DOI: 10.3390/molecules28073272] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/15/2023] [Revised: 04/02/2023] [Accepted: 04/03/2023] [Indexed: 04/09/2023] Open
Abstract
The aim of this study was to evaluate the application potential of a recombinant fungal immunomodulatory protein from Ganoderma lucidum (rFIP-glu). First, a recombinant plasmid pPIC9K::FIP-glu-His was transferred into Pichia pastoris for the production of protein. The protein was then to assess its free radical scavenging abilities and the effect on the viability of both human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) and mouse B16-F10 melanoma cells (B16 cells) in vitro, followed by the effect on the melanin synthesis of B16 cells. The results of SDS-PAGE and western blot showed that rFIP-glu was successfully expressed. Furtherly, a bioactivity assay in vitro indicated that the scavenging rate of 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals reached 84.5% at 6.0 mg/mL (p ≤ 0.0001) of rFIP-glu, showing strong antioxidant activity. Subsequently, a safety evaluation demonstrated that rFIP-glu promoted the proliferation of HaCaT cells, with the cell viability reaching 124.3% at 48 μg/mL (p ≤ 0.01), regarding the cell viability of B16 cells after exposure to rFIP-glu (48 μg/mL) significantly inhibited, to 80.7% (p ≤ 0.01). Besides, rFIP-glu inhibited the melanin synthesis of B16 cells in a dose-dependent manner from 100–1000 μg/mL, and rFIP-glu at 500 μg/mL (p ≤ 0.01) exhibited the highest intracellular melanin amount reduction of 16.8%. Furthermore, a mechanism analysis showed that rFIP-glu inhibited tyrosinase (TYR) activity by up-regulating the expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and down-regulating the gene expression of TYR and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TYRP-1), thus inhibiting melanin synthesis. The data implied that rFIP-glu had significant antioxidant activity and whitening potency. It should be used as raw materials for cosmeceutical applications.
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Affiliation(s)
- Zhi-Jian Guo
- School of Agriculture and Biology, Engineering Research Center of Therapeutic Antibody (Ministry of Education), Shanghai Jiao Tong University, Shanghai 200240, China
| | - Yan Liu
- School of Agriculture and Biology, Engineering Research Center of Therapeutic Antibody (Ministry of Education), Shanghai Jiao Tong University, Shanghai 200240, China
| | - Jia-Yi Yang
- School of Agriculture and Biology, Engineering Research Center of Therapeutic Antibody (Ministry of Education), Shanghai Jiao Tong University, Shanghai 200240, China
| | - Meng-Yuan Jin
- School of Agriculture and Biology, Engineering Research Center of Therapeutic Antibody (Ministry of Education), Shanghai Jiao Tong University, Shanghai 200240, China
| | - Pei-Wen Mao
- School of Agriculture and Biology, Engineering Research Center of Therapeutic Antibody (Ministry of Education), Shanghai Jiao Tong University, Shanghai 200240, China
| | - Xuan-Wei Zhou
- School of Agriculture and Biology, Engineering Research Center of Therapeutic Antibody (Ministry of Education), Shanghai Jiao Tong University, Shanghai 200240, China
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Marine Natural Products as Innovative Cosmetic Ingredients. Mar Drugs 2023; 21:md21030170. [PMID: 36976219 PMCID: PMC10054431 DOI: 10.3390/md21030170] [Citation(s) in RCA: 10] [Impact Index Per Article: 10.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/06/2023] [Revised: 02/23/2023] [Accepted: 03/01/2023] [Indexed: 03/12/2023] Open
Abstract
Over the course of the last 20 years, numerous studies have identified the benefits of an array of marine natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes, as they present unique characteristics not found in terrestrial organisms. Consequently, several marine-based ingredients and bioactive compounds are under development, used or considered for skin care and cosmetics. Despite the multitude of cosmetics based on marine sources, only a small proportion of their full potential has been exploited. Many cosmetic industries have turned their attention to the sea to obtain innovative marine-derived compounds for cosmetics, but further research is needed to determine and elucidate the benefits. This review gathers information on the main biological targets for cosmetic ingredients, different classes of marine natural products of interest for cosmetic applications, and the organisms from which such products can be sourced. Although organisms from different phyla present different and varied bioactivities, the algae phylum seems to be the most promising for cosmetic applications, presenting compounds of many classes. In fact, some of these compounds present higher bioactivities than their commercialized counterparts, demonstrating the potential presented by marine-derived compounds for cosmetic applications (i.e., Mycosporine-like amino acids and terpenoids’ antioxidant activity). This review also summarizes the major challenges and opportunities faced by marine-derived cosmetic ingredients to successfully reach the market. As a future perspective, we consider that fruitful cooperation among academics and cosmetic industries could lead to a more sustainable market through responsible sourcing of ingredients, implementing ecological manufacturing processes, and experimenting with inventive recycling and reuse programs.
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