Natural Oils for Skin-Barrier Repair: Ancient Compounds Now Backed by Modern Science

Para rubber seed oil and its fatty acids alleviate photoaging and maintain cell homeostasis

OBJECTIVE

Para rubber seed oil was indicated for skin dullness and hair loss in regard to its cutaneous beneficial fatty acids. Nonetheless, the oil's potency against photoaging remains unexplored. We proposed that para rubber seed oil could alleviate photoaging.

METHODS

Para rubber seed oil was investigated in cocultures of human HaCaT cells and dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Photoaging protectant efficiency was monitored in terms of IL-6 and IL-8 as well as MMP-1 (collagenase) and MMP-9 (gelatinase) in a comparison with its fatty acid components.

RESULTS

Para rubber seed oil standardized in fatty acids was indicated as the promising plant oil for photoaging treatment. Its photoprotection mechanism was demonstrated in the coculture system of keratinocyte and fibroblast cells for the first time. Where the oil and its fatty acid constituents (100 μg/mL) were indicated to be safe and efficiently protect the cocultures against UV damage. The oil significantly (p < 0.001) suppressed UV-induced IL-6, IL-8, MMP-1 and MMP-9 secretions. The revealed photoprotection proficiency was abided by its fatty acids, particularly the unsaturated C18 ones.

CONCLUSION

The oil was indicated on its potential to maintain skin homeostasis and would alleviate senescence ageing in regard to its photoprotection abilities exhibited. Para rubber seed oil is warranted as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent with the profiled safety and efficacy demonstrated in the epidermal coculture system. The findings encourage the development of innovative anti-ageing products containing the oil, which is categorizable as a sustainable specialty material for photoaging treatment.

New Insights into Trace Element Accumulation in Kernels of Two Algerian Populations of Argan (Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels): An Endangered Endemic Tree

Argan is one of the valuable oilseed trees in the Northwest Africa area, with important ecological and socioeconomic benefits; however, information underlying its elemental status remains absent . The current work was performed for the first time to quantify the mineral status of Argania spinosa kernels collected from two different geographic Algerian regions (Mostaganem and Tindouf). Elemental investigation (As, Br, Ca, Ce, Co, Cr, Fe, K, La, Na, Rb, Sb, Sc, Sm, Th, and Zn) was performed using neutron activation analysis (NAA). Two standard reference materials from the National Research Center for certified reference materials (China), namely, CRM-GBW 07605 (GSV-4 tea leaves), and the National Institute of Standards and Technology (USA), namely, NIST (SRM 1573a, tomato leaves), were used to ensure precision and validation of NAA measurements. A computational calculation of data including principal component analysis (PCA) and Pearson correlation coefficient (r) was applied. The extents of essential elements in Mostaganem kernels were found to be in the order of K (7185 μg g-1) > Ca (2079 μg g-1) > Na (205 μg g-1) > Fe (84.33 μg g-1) > Zn (73.41 μg g-1) > Cr (0.66 μg g-1) > Co (0.035 μg g-1), whereas the overall order of these elements in Tindouf kernels was K (7206 μg g-1) > Ca (3725 μg g-1) > Fe (114.69 μg g-1) > Zn (67.37 μg g-1) > Na (56.29 μg g-1) > Cr (0.54 μg g-1) > Co (0.11 μg g-1). PCA results revealed that Tindouf population was highly loaded with Br, Cr, Cu, Mn, Sr, V, and Zn, while Mostaganem population was associated only with Ce and Sm contents. These findings can be useful for making new formulations for cosmetic and culinary usage and contribute to the nutritional database and food safety.

Emu oil alleviates atopic dermatitis-like responses by inhibiting Cdc42 signaling of keratinocyte

Emu oil is the oil extracted from the body fat of the Australian bird emu. Although previous studies have reported that emu oil has anti-inflammatory effects, the effect and mechanism of emu oil on the treatment of atopic dermatitis have not been reported. Here, 2, 4-dinitrofluorobenzene was used to induce atopic dermatitis-like appearance on the back skin of C57BL/6 mice. And then, the effect of emu oil in the atopic dermatitis treatment was evaluated. We found that emu oil reduced the transdermal water loss in the atopic dermatitis model. Additionally, the epidermal thickness treated with emu oil was significantly thinner. The number of mast cells and inflammatory cells were significantly decreased. The thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP), which is secreted by keratinocyte, was decreased significantly after treatment. Moreover, the serum levels of cytokines TSLP, interleukin-4, interleukin-13, and immunoglobulin (Ig) E were decreased after emu oil treatment. Surprisingly, we found that the high level of Cdc42 expression in the atopic dermatitis, which was decreased after emu oil treatment. To detect the role of Cdc42 in atopic dermatitis, we constructed atopic dermatitis model in mice with sustained activation of Cdc42 signaling. Furthermore, we have confirmed that emu oil demonstrates anti-inflammatory effects in atopic dermatitis by inhibiting the expression of Cdc42 signaling in keratinocytes. In conclusion, we discovered a new role of Cdc42 in the development of atopic dermatitis, which mediated the therapeutic effect of emu oil on atopic dermatitis.

Stackable Medical-Grade Skincare for the Cosmetic Medicine Patient: A Long-Term Pilot Assessment

Background

Multiple intrinsic and extrinsic factors influence aging and lead to visible changes in the skin, including dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, surface roughness, uneven pigmentation, and loss of luminosity. Although it is well established that a single combination of topicals can address multiple signs of skin aging, it is common for patients' at-home skin treatment routines to include multiple different topicals with different active ingredients. The layering of active ingredients can cause skin irritation, and lead to noncompliance with a consistent routine. Further, multiple active ingredients may exacerbate irritation from in-office aesthetic treatments.

Objectives

To assess the long-term efficacy, safety, tolerability, and patient adherence to a Stackable Treatment topical routine consisting of 4 complementary topical formulations.

Methods

This study examined a daily topical routine (Stackable Treatment routine) consisting of 4 topical formulas with different active ingredients, and evaluated the routine's safety, tolerability, and efficacy in a composite of in-office treatment patients who applied the routine for a minimum of 1 year.

Results

Of the 14 patients, 0 experienced adverse reactions. Improvements to multiple skin parameters were observed, including improvements to skin hydration, surface texture, pigmentation, vasculature, and the appearance of scars. The majority of patients continue to use the Stackable Treatment routine after the study's conclusion.

Conclusions

The combination of low incidence of irritation, high patient satisfaction, and overall efficacy of the routine indicates the Stackable Treatment routine may be well suited as a foundational skin care regimen that can complement in-office aesthetic treatments.

Level of Evidence 4

Clinical application of hempseed or flaxseed oil-based lyotropic liquid crystals: Evaluation of their impact on skin barrier function

The principal function of skin is to form an effective barrier between the human body and its environment. Impaired barrier function represents a precondition for the development of skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis (AD), which is the most common inflammatory skin disease characterized by skin barrier dysfunction. AD significantly affects patients' quality of life, thus, there is a growing interest in the development of novel delivery systems that would improve therapeutic outcomes. Herein, eight novel lyotropic liquid crystals (LCCs) were investigated for the first time in a double-blind, interventional, before-after, single-group trial with healthy adult subjects and a twice-daily application regimen. LCCs consisted of constituents with skin regenerative properties and exhibited lamellar micro-structure, especially suitable for dermal application. The short- and long-term effects of LCCs on TEWL, SC hydration, erythema index, melanin index, and tolerability were determined and compared with baseline. LCCs with the highest oil content and lecithin/Tween 80 mixture stood out by providing a remarkable 2-fold reduction in TEWL values and showing the most distinctive decrease in skin erythema levels in both the short- and long-term exposure. Therefore, they exhibit great potential for clinical use as novel delivery systems for AD treatment, capable of repairing skin barrier function.

Revitalizing the skin: Exploring the role of barrier repair moisturizers

BACKGROUND

Moisturizers are designed to maintain skin health and treat dermatological conditions associated with impaired skin barrier function. However, differences in their composition account for the differences in their effect.

AIMS

This narrative review aims to discuss the role of barrier repair moisturizers, highlight the role of different components in a moisturizer and their role in impaired skin conditions (e.g., dry, itchy, inflamed, sensitive skin, atopic eczema), and thereby empower dermatologists and pediatricians in selecting the right moisturizer.

METHODS

PubMed, Embase, and Scopus electronic databases were searched from January 2000 to June 2023 for publications on skin barrier repair and use of barrier repair moisturizers for the treatment of dry, itchy, inflamed, sensitive skin, or atopic eczema. Studies conducted in humans, published in English for which full texts were freely available were included.

RESULTS

The structure and composition of lipid lamellae within the stratum corneum play an important role in maintaining an effective skin barrier and protecting the body from various external assaults. Endocannabinoid mediators play an active role in maintaining skin barrier function. Moisturizers containing physiological lipids and functional ingredients (e.g., endocannabinoids such as palmitoylethanolamide [PEA]) and based on the principles of biomimic technology are demonstrated to be beneficial for the management of conditions associated with a disrupted skin barrier.

CONCLUSIONS

Moisturizer based on the innovative biomimic formulation has good cosmetic efficacy and is generally well tolerated, and the addition of PEA might represent a new generation of compounds that may be beneficial for long-term management of impaired skin conditions.

Examining the benefits of extended patch test series in children: a comprehensive analysis

INTRODUCTION

The growing presence of allergens in materials and scarce data on allergic contact dermatitis in children has increased our need to refine its diagnosis in this population. We aimed to analyze children's specific responsivity to highly reactive subcomponents of Fragrance mix I, Fragrance mix II, and Textile dye mix from the European baseline series.

METHODS

We retrospectively analyzed patch test records of children aged 2 to 18 who underwent patch testing with the European baseline series between 2014 and 2022 in Israel.

RESULTS

A total of 367 children were included in the study. In all, 160 children had positive results; 43 patients reacted to one of the mixes, and 20 performed further testing. Eleven of them completed the extended series at the exact same times as the regular European series, which benefited children. Farnesol was the most reactive compound (30.8%).

CONCLUSIONS

Performing the extended European series provides a more accurate and time-efficient allergic contact dermatitis diagnosis. Farnesol reactivity appears prominent in children and may justify tighter product regulations.

The Association of Oleic Acid and Dexamethasone Acetate into Nanocapsules Enables a Reduction in the Effective Corticosteroid Dose in a UVB Radiation-Induced Sunburn Model in Mice

Dexamethasone has a high anti-inflammatory efficacy in treating skin inflammation. However, its use is related to the rebound effect, rosacea, purple, and increased blood glucose levels. Nanotechnology approaches have emerged as strategies for drug delivery due to their advantages in improving therapeutic effects. To reduce dexamethasone-related adverse effects and improve the anti-inflammatory efficacy of treatments, we developed nanocarriers containing this corticosteroid and oleic acid. Nanocapsules and nanoemulsion presented dexamethasone content close to the theoretical value and controlled dexamethasone release in an in vitro assay. Gellan gum-based hydrogels were successfully prepared to employ the nanostructured systems. A permeation study employing porcine skin showed that hydrogels containing non-nanoencapsulated dexamethasone (0.025%) plus oleic acid (3%) or oleic acid (3%) plus dexamethasone (0.025%)-loaded nanocapsules provided a higher amount of dexamethasone in the epidermis compared to non-nanoencapsulated dexamethasone (0.5%). Hydrogels containing oleic acid plus dexamethasone-loaded nanocapsules effectively inhibited mice ear edema (with inhibitions of 89.26 ± 3.77% and 85.11 ± 2.88%, respectively) and inflammatory cell infiltration (with inhibitions of 49.58 ± 4.29% and 27.60 ± 11.70%, respectively). Importantly, the dexamethasone dose employed in hydrogels containing the nanocapsules that effectively inhibited ear edema and cell infiltration was 20-fold lower (0.025%) than that of non-nanoencapsulated dexamethasone (0.5%). Additionally, no adverse effects were observed in preliminary toxicity tests. Our study suggests that nanostructured hydrogel containing a reduced effective dose of dexamethasone could be a promising therapeutic alternative to treat inflammatory disorders with reduced or absent adverse effects. Additionally, testing our formulation in a clinical study on patients with skin inflammatory diseases would be very important to validate our study.

Essential Oil of Matricaria chamomilla Alleviate Psoriatic-Like Skin Inflammation by Inhibiting PI3K/Akt/mTOR and p38MAPK Signaling Pathway

Background

The traditional Matricaria chamomilla L. has been used to treat dermatitis for thousands of years. Due to emerging trends in alternative medicine, patients prefer natural remedies to relieve their symptoms. Therefore, finding safe and effective plant medicines for topical applications on the skin is an important treatment strategy for dermatologists. German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla L.) from the Compositae family is a famous medicinal plant, often known as the "star of medicinal species."However, the function of Matricaria chamomilla essential oil on skin inflammation has not been thoroughly examined in earlier research.

Methods

GC-MS analyzed the components of MCEO, and this study explored the anti-inflammation effects of MCEO on psoriasis with network pharmacological pathway prediction. Following this, we used clinical samples of psoriasis patients to confirm the secretory characteristic of relative inflammatory markers. The therapeutic effect of MCEO on skin inflammation was detected by examination of human keratinocytes HaCaT. At the same time, we prepared imiquimod-induced psoriatic-like skin inflammation in mice to investigate thoroughly the potential inhibition functions of MCEO on psoriatic skin injury and inflammation.

Results

MCEO significantly reduced interleukin-22/tumor necrosis factor α/lipopolysaccharide-stimulated elevation of HaCaT cell inflammation, which was correlated with downregulating PI3K/Akt/mTOR and p38MAPK pathways activation mediated by MCEO in HaCaT cells treated with IL-22/TNF-α/LPS. Skin inflammation was evaluated based on the PASI score, HE staining, and relative inflammatory cytokine levels. The results showed that MCEO could significantly contribute to inflammatory skin disease treatment.

Conclusion

MCEO inhibited inflammation in HaCaT keratinocytes induced by IL-22/TNF-α/LPS, the potential mechanisms associated with inhibiting excessive activation and crosstalk between PI3K/Akt/mTOR and p38MAPK pathways. MCEO ameliorated skin injury in IMQ-induced psoriatic-like skin inflammation of mice by downregulating the levels of inflammatory cytokines but not IL-17A. Thus, anti-inflammatory plant drugs with different targets with combined applications were a potential therapeutic strategy in psoriasis.

Characterization of gelatin-based wound dressing biomaterials containing increasing coconut oil concentrations

This study determined the influence and ideal ratios of various coconut oil (CO) amounts in gelatin (G) based-films as wound dressings since there are limited comparative studies to evaluate the sole effect of increasing CO on protein-based biomaterials. Homogenous films at G:CO ratio of 4:0,4:2,4:3,4:4 (w:w) corresponding to CO-0, CO-2, CO-3, CO-4, respectively, were obtained using solution casting. SEM showed CO caused rougher surfaces decreasing mechanical strength. However, no pores were observed in CO-4 due to bigger clusters of oil improving stretchability compared to CO-3; and durability since aging of CO-4 was >10% lower than CO-0 in aqueous media. FTIR showed triglycerides' band only in CO films with increasing amplitude. Moreover, amide-I of CO-2 was involved in more hydrogen bonding, therefore, CO-2 had the highest melt-like transition temperatures (Tmax) at ∼163 °C while others' were at ∼133 °C; and had more ideal mechanical properties among CO films. XTT showed that increased CO improved 3T3 cell viability as CO-0 significantly decreased viability at 10,50,75,100 μg/mL (p < 0.05), whereas CO-2 and CO-3 within 5-75 μg/mL and CO-4 within 5-100 μg/mL range increased viability ≥100% suggesting proliferation. All CO samples at 25 μg/mL stimulated 3T3 cell migration in Scratch Assay indicating wound healing. CO amounts mainly improved thermal and healing properties of gelatin-based biomaterial. CO-2 was more thermally stable and CO-4 had better influence on cell viability and wound healing than CO-0. Therefore, increased CO ratios, specifically 4:2 and 4:4, G:CO (w:w), in gelatin-based films can be ideal candidates for wound dressing materials.

Essential Oils Infused Poly-ε-Caprolactone/Gelatin Electrospun Nanofibrous Mats: Biocompatibility and Antibacterial Study

Infections caused by antibiotic-resistant pathogens result in a delayed wound-healing process. As an approach to prevent infections, alternatives in the form of natural antimicrobial products have become public interest. Essential oils derived from plants are used as antimicrobials owing to their broad-spectrum activity against pathogenic organisms. In this study, essential oil from seeds of watermelon, jackfruit, and papaya was incorporated into poly-ε-caprolactone/gelatin nanofibers using an electrospinning technique. The synthesized nanofibers were smooth, continuous, and bead-free. The nanofibers were found to be mechanically competent as confirmed by the universal tensile tester. The antibacterial activity of the various essential oil-loaded nanofibrous mats was determined by disc diffusion assay. Furthermore, they were found to be non-toxic and biocompatible by MTT and CMFDA assays on fibroblast cells. The obtained results have demonstrated that essential oil-loaded nanofiber mats are promising alternatives to conventional antibacterial wound dressings.

Capsicum annuum Oleoresin Nanoemulgel - Design Characterization and In vitro Investigation of Anticancer and Antimicrobial Activities

BACKGROUND

The use of naturally occurring bioactive materials is getting great attention owing to their safety and environmental properties. Oily compounds, known as oleoresins, are expected to provide an important source for the natural products industry aiming to develop novel treatments for skin conditions. In this work, Capsicum annuum oleoresin nanoemulgel formulations have been prepared and investigated for their antibacterial and anticancer properties.

METHODOLOGY

Several C. annuum oleoresin nanoemulgel formulations were prepared by incorporating a Carbopol 940 gel in a self-nanoemulsifying nanoemulsion consisting of C. annuum, tween 80, and span 80. The systems were characterized for particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential, and rheology. The in vitro antimicrobial and cytotoxic activities of the optimum formulation were evaluated.

RESULTS

The selected formulation is composed of 40% tween, 10% span 80, and 40% C. annuum oleoresin. This formulation produced a stable nanoemulsion with a narrow PDI value of 0.179 ± 0.08 and a droplet size of 104.0 ± 2.6 nm. Results of the in vitro antimicrobial studies indicated high potency of the systems against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) (zone of inhibition of 29 ± 1.9 mm), E. coli (33 ± 0.9 mm), K. pneumonia (30 ± 1.4 mm), and C. albicans (21 ± 1.5 mm), as compared to the reference antibiotic, ampicillin (18 ± 1.4 mm against K. pneumonia), and antifungal agent, fluconazole (12 ± 0.1 mm against C. albicans). Furthermore, cytotoxicity results, expressed as IC50 values, revealed that the oleoresin and its nanoemulgel had the best effects against the HepG2 cell line (IC50 value of 79.43 μg/mL for the nanoemulgel) and MCF7 (IC50 value of 57.54 μg/mL), and the most potent effect was found against 3T3 (IC50 value of 45.7 μg/m- L). On the other side, the system did not substantially exhibit activity against By-61 and Hela.

CONCLUSION

C. annuum oleoresin and its nanoemulgel can be considered valuable sources for the discovery of new antibacterial, antifungal, and anticancer compounds in the pharmaceutical industry, especially due to their potent activity against various cancer cell lines as well as bacterial and fungal strains.

Fatty Acid Profiles and Biological Activities of the Vegetable Oils of Argania spinosa, Pinus halepensis and Pistacia atlantica Grown in Tunisia: A Preliminary Study

Several foods are used in both the nutraceutical and health sectors; vegetable oils, for example, can prevent the onset of numerous diseases. The properties of these oils are related to their chemical composition and primarily to the presence of fatty acids. The present work aimed to determine the chemical profiles of Argania spinosa, Pinus halepensis, and Pistacia altantica oils, used in traditional Tunisian foods, and to evaluate some biological properties. We evaluated their antioxidant, anti-enzymatic, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties. Linoleic acid was the main component of the three oils. P. atlantica oil showed more significant inhibitory activity against the enzymes studied than A. spinosa and P. halepensis. All three oils showed similar antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity. Furthermore, A. spinosa and P. halepensis oils showed antibiofilm activity against P. aeruginosa, with 30-40% inhibition. These results focus on the possible use of these oils in the nutraceutical and healthcare sectors.

The Protective Role of Oleuropein Aglycone against Pesticide-Induced Toxicity in a Human Keratinocytes Cell Model

The extensive use of agricultural pesticides to improve crop quality and yield significantly increased the risk to the public of exposure to small but repeated doses of pesticides over time through various routes, including skin, by increasing the risk of disease outbreaks. Although much work was conducted to reduce the use of pesticides in agriculture, little attention was paid to prevention, which could reduce the toxicity of pesticide exposure by reducing its impact on human health. Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), a major component of the Mediterranean diet, exerts numerous health-promoting properties, many of which are attributed to oleuropein aglycone (OleA), the deglycosylated form of oleuropein, which is the main polyphenolic component of EVOO. In this work, three pesticides with different physicochemical and biological properties, namely oxadiazon (OXA), imidacloprid (IMID), and glyphosate (GLYPHO), were compared in terms of metabolic activity, mitochondrial function and epigenetic modulation in an in vitro cellular model of human HaCaT keratinocytes to mimic the pathway of dermal exposure. The potential protective effect of OleA against pesticide-induced cellular toxicity was then evaluated in a cell pre-treatment condition. This study showed that sub-lethal doses of OXA and IMID reduced the metabolic activity and mitochondrial functionality of HaCaT cells by inducing oxidative stress and altering intracellular calcium flux and caused epigenetic modification by reducing histone acetylation H3 and H4. GLYPHO, on the other hand, showed no evidence of cellular toxicity at the doses tested. Pretreatment of cells with OleA was able to protect cells from the damaging effects of the pesticides OXA and IMID by maintaining metabolic activity and mitochondrial function at a controlled level and preventing acetylation reduction, particularly of histone H3. In conclusion, the bioactive properties of OleA reported here could be of great pharmaceutical and health interest, as they could be further studied to design new formulations for the prevention of toxicity from exposure to pesticide use.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts' ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC50 value of 36.75 μg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC50 value of 42.784 μg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii's potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties.

Skin Pigmentation Types, Causes and Treatment-A Review

Human skin pigmentation and melanin synthesis are incredibly variable, and are impacted by genetics, UV exposure, and some drugs. Patients' physical appearance, psychological health, and social functioning are all impacted by a sizable number of skin conditions that cause pigmentary abnormalities. Hyperpigmentation, where pigment appears to overflow, and hypopigmentation, where pigment is reduced, are the two major classifications of skin pigmentation. Albinism, melasma, vitiligo, Addison's disease, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can be brought on by eczema, acne vulgaris, and drug interactions, are the most common skin pigmentation disorders in clinical practice. Anti-inflammatory medications, antioxidants, and medications that inhibit tyrosinase, which prevents the production of melanin, are all possible treatments for pigmentation problems. Skin pigmentation can be treated orally and topically with medications, herbal remedies, and cosmetic products, but a doctor should always be consulted before beginning any new medicine or treatment plan. This review article explores the numerous types of pigmentation problems, their causes, and treatments, as well as the 25 plants, 4 marine species, and 17 topical and oral medications now on the market that have been clinically tested to treat skin diseases.

The Effect of Cosmetic Treatment and Gel Laser Therapy on the Improvement of Comedogenic Skin Type

Comedogenic skin care receives little attention compared to the care or treatment of more serious acne manifestations. Traditional therapies may have limited success with potential side effects. Cosmetic care supported by the effect of a biostimulating laser may offer a desirable alternative. The aim of the study was to evaluate the biological effectiveness of combined cosmetic treatment with lasotherapy on comedogenic skin type using noninvasive bioengineering methods. Twelve volunteers with comedogenic skin type underwent a 28-week application of Lasocare Basic 645^® cosmetic gel containing Lactoperoxidase and Lactoferrin in combination with laser therapy (Lasocare^® method). The effect of treatment on skin condition was monitored using noninvasive diagnostic methods. The parameters were the amount of sebum, the pore count, the ultraviolet-induced red fluorescence assessment of comedonic lesions (percentage of the area and quantification of orange-red spots), hydration, transepidermal water loss, and pH. A statistically significant decrease in sebum production was observed on the skin of the treated volunteers, as well as a decrease in porphyrins, indicating the presence of Cutibacterium acnes populating comedones and causing enlarged pores. The balance of epidermal water in the skin was regulated adjusting the acidity of the skin coat in individual zones, which decreased the presence of Cutibacterium acnes. Cosmetic treatment in combination with the Lasocare^® method successfully improved the condition of comedogenic skin. In addition to transient erythema, there were no other adverse effects. The chosen procedure appears to be a suitable and safe alternative to traditional treatment procedures known from dermatological practice.

Keeping Healthy in Your Skin-Plants and Fungi Used by Indigenous Himalayan Communities to Treat Dermatological Ailments

Dermatological ailments are a major health problem, especially when related to human immune deficiency syndrome and acquired immune deficiency. The goal of this study was to identify the medicinal plants used by the indigenous peoples of the Northwestern Himalayas to treat dermatological diseases. Several field trips were conducted in the spring and summer seasons of 2020-2021 to collect the plants of dermatological value and information about their use through open-ended semi-structured interviews (n = 53) and group discussions (n = 33). The current investigation found 64 ethnomedicinal plants belonging to 34 families commonly used to treat a variety of dermatological ailments. The main growth form was herbs (80%), followed by trees (8%) and ferns (6%). It was found that leaves (51%) were the most commonly used plant part, followed by roots and the whole plant. Wound healing was the most dominant application, with 18 plant species used, followed by skin burns cured by 11 plant species and skin boils by eight plant species. Out of the total (18%) of medicinal plants with cosmetic uses, i.e., roots of Jurinea dolomiaea, Rheum webbianum, and Rheum spiciforme were crushed into powder and mixed with turmeric, and the paste is applied topically for glowing skin. Among the various preparation methods, paste (38%) was the most common way of preparation, followed by poultice (29%) and infusion (9%). Between ethnic groups, the maximum homogeneity was between Gujjar and Bakarwal ethnic groups (23 species, 36%), followed by Gujjars and Kashmiri (14 species, 22%). Bakarwals and Gujjar people live in the same geographical location, and they graze their animals in pastures, practice extensive transhumance pastoralism, and pass through different ecological landscapes, thus having sufficient experiences with certain plants and retaining more knowledge. The species identified with the highest utilization based on the number of citations and use value included Ficus carica, Cichorium intybus, Euphorbia wallichii, Pinus wallichiana, Plantago major, Jurinea dolomiaea, and Artemisia absinthium. The findings of this study demonstrate that people who reside in the Northwestern Himalayas region still rely on medicinal plants.

Pentaclethra macroloba: A Review of the Biological, Pharmacological, Phytochemical, Cosmetic, Nutritional and Biofuel Potential of this Amazonian Plant

Pracaxi (Penthaclethra macroloba (Willd.) Kuntze) is an Amazonian plant, traditionally used by the native population to treat health disorders such as inflammation, erysipelas, wound healing, muscle pain, ear pain, diarrhea, snake and insect bites as well as for cancer treatment. Other common uses include using the oil for frying, skin and hair beautification, and as an alternative source of energy. This review is focused on highlighting its taxonomy, occurrence and botanical origins, popular uses, pharmacology and biological activities, cytotoxicity, biofuel activity and phytochemistry in order to explore future therapeutic use and other applications. Pracaxi contains triterpene saponins, sterols, tannins, oleanolic acid, unsaturated fatty acids and long-chain fatty acids, with a high behenic acid value, which may serve for incorporation into drug delivery systems as well for the development of new drugs. These components are correlated with its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, healing, anti-hemolytic, anti-hemorrhagic, antiophidic, and larvicidal activities against Aedes aegypti and Helicorverpa zea, which ratify the popular/traditional uses. The species is nitrogen fixing; it is easy to propagate in floodplains and the terra firma, and it can be used for the reforestation of degraded areas. Additionally, the oil extracted from the seeds can leverage the bioeconomy of the region based on sustainable exploration.

Occlusion and hydration of scars: moisturizers versus silicone gels

BACKGROUND

The mainstay of non-invasive scar management, consists of pressure therapy with customized pressure garments often combined with inlays, hydration by means of silicones and/or moisturizers as well as UV protection. It is generally accepted that scar dehydration resulting from impaired barrier function of the stratum corneum and expressed by raised trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) values, can lead to increased fibroblast activity and thereby hypertrophic scar formation. However, we have reached no consensus on exactly what optimal scar hydration is nor on barrier function repair: by means of silicone sheets, liquid silicone gels or moisturizers. Occlusive silicone sheets almost completely prevent TEWL and have been shown to be effective. Nevertheless, many important disadvantages due to excessive occlusion such as difficulties in applying the sheets exceeding 10-12 h, pruritus, irritation, and maceration of the skin are limiting factors for its use. To avoid these complications and to facilitate the application, liquid silicone gels were developed. Despite a reduced occlusion, various studies have shown that the effects are comparable to these of the silicone sheets. However, major limiting factors for general use are the long drying time, the shiny aspect after application, and the high cost especially when used for larger scars. Based on excellent clinical results after using three specific moisturizers for scar treatment in our patients, we wanted to investigate whether these moisturizers induce comparable occlusion and hydration compared to both each other and the widely recognized liquid silicone gels. We wanted to provide a more scientific basis for the kind of moisturizers that can be used as a full-fledged and cost-effective alternative to silicone gel.

METHODS

A total of 36 healthy volunteers participated in this study. Increased TEWL was created by inducing superficial abrasions by rigorous (20x) skin stripping with Corneofix® adhesive tape in squares of 4 cm². Three moisturizers and a fluid silicone gel were tested: DermaCress, Alhydran, Lipikar and BAP Scar Care silicone gel respectively. TEWL reducing capacities and both absolute (AAH) and cumulative (CAAH) absolute added hydration were assessed using a Tewameter® TM300 and a Corneometer® CM825 at different time points for up to 4 h after application.

RESULTS

We found an immediate TEWL increase in all the zones that underwent superficial abrasions by stripping. Controls remained stable over time, relative to the ambient condition. The mean percentage reduction (MPR) in TEWL kept increasing over time with Alhydran and DermaCress, reaching a maximum effect 4 h after application. Silicone gel reached maximal MPR almost immediately after application and only declined thereafter. The silicone gel never reached the minimal MPR of Alhydran or DermaCress. Hydration capacity assessed through CAAH as measured by the Corneometer was significantly less with silicone gel compared to the moisturizers. Compared to silicone gel Lipikar provided similar occlusion and the improvement in hydration was highly significant 4 h after application.

CONCLUSION

Based on the results of both our previous research and this study it is clearly demonstrated that the occlusive and hydrative effect of fluid silicone gel is inferior to the moisturizers used in our center. Lipikar hydrates well but is less suitable for scar treatment due to the lack of occlusion. A well-balanced occlusion and hydration, in this study only provided by Alhydran and DermaCress, suggests that moisturizers can be used as a scar hydration therapy that replaces silicone products, is more cost-effective and has a more patient-friendly application.

[Aspects of sustainability of topical therapy]

BACKGROUND

Topical compounds are an important treatment option in dermatology. Many ingredients and packaging do not yet sufficiently fulfill sustainable criteria.

OBJECTIVES

This article aims to provide a compact overview of sustainability criteria of topical compounds and packaging.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Based on a selective literature search and personal experience, common ingredients and packaging of topical preparations are summarized.

RESULTS

Topical preparations often contain mineral oils, acrylates, silicones and polyethylene glycols (PEG), which show poor biodegradability and may accumulate in the environment. As an alternative to these non-renewable substances, plant-based fats, oils, and waxes can be used. Biopolymers such as plant-based gum, agar-agar, pectin, and biologically produced hyaluronic acid are an alternative to plastic polymers. The environmental footprint of glass as packaging material is overestimated. Currently, plastics and aluminum may be preferable when recycled correctly.

CONCLUSION

The production of topical formulations without using mineral oils, silicones, acrylates, and PEGs is technically challenging. A sustainable packaging material that fulfills all relevant functionalities is not yet available. Packaging should meet high requirements regarding ecological, economic, and social factors. Better performance with respect to new opportunities in recycling and waste management should be incorporated. Overall, the legislative authorities should provide relevant incentives for more sustainable topical compounds and packaging.

Soothing Effect of a Cosmetic Product on Skin Discomforts Induced by a Chemical Irritant (Capsaicin) and UV-Radiation, and after Mosquito Bites and Sunburn in a Real-World Setting

Irritated and itchy skin is a common skin condition. Consumers tend to opt for natural ingredients for irritated skin (e.g., after insect bites or sun exposure). We tested a cosmetic product with 94% of its ingredients being of natural origin, each with its beneficial properties, e.g., nourishing shea butter, cooling menthol, and soothing bisabolol. Skin discomfort was induced either by a chemical irritant (capsaicin) or UV radiation by a solar simulator. In this clinical, prospective, and controlled experimental study, we investigated the soothing effect of the tested product. We observed a soothing effect on the capsaicin-induced itching and stinging sensation with a statistically significant decrease in the discomfort sensations one minute after a single application. The tested product also showed a significant reduction in the UV-induced skin erythema (UVA+B exposure). In a real-world study, these results can be correlated with a decrease of itching and irritation after sunburn or after insect bites.

Cold-Pressed Pomegranate Seed Oil: Study of Punicic Acid Properties by Coupling of GC/FID and FTIR

Over the last decades, we have witnessed an increasing interest in food-related products containing vegetable oils. These oils can be obtained either by extraction or by mechanical pressing of different parts of plants (e.g., seeds, fruit, and drupels). Producers of nutraceuticals have ceaselessly searched for unique and effective natural ingredients. The enormous success of argan oil has been followed by discoveries of other interesting vegetable oils (e.g., pomegranate oil) containing several bioactives. This work describes the pomegranate fruit extract and seed oil as a rich source of conjugated linolenic acid as a metabolite of punicic acid (PA), deriving from the omega-5 family (ω-5). Through the chemical characterization of PA, its nutritional and therapeutic properties are highlighted together with the physiological properties that encourage its use in human nutrition. We analyzed the composition of all fatty acids with beneficial properties occurring in pomegranate seed oil using gas chromatography (GC) with flame-ionization detection (FID) analysis combined with Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). Pomegranate seed oil mainly consists of 9,11,13-octadic-trienoic acid (18:3), corresponding to 73 wt % of the total fatty acids. Nine components were identified by GC in PSO, varying between 0.58 and 73.19 wt %. Using midinfrared (MIR) spectroscopy, we compared the composition of pomegranate seed oil with that of meadowfoam seed oil (MSO), which is also becoming increasingly popular in the food industry due to its high content of long chain fatty acids (C20-22), providing increased oil stability. From the results of FTIR and MIR spectroscopy, we found that punicic acid is unique in PSO (73.19 wt %) but not in MSO.

Adapting Clofazimine for Treatment of Cutaneous Tuberculosis by Using Self-Double-Emulsifying Drug Delivery Systems

Although chemotherapeutic treatment regimens are currently available, and considerable effort has been lavished on the development of new drugs for the treatment of tuberculosis (TB), the disease remains deeply intractable and widespread. This is due not only to the nature of the life cycle and extraordinarily disseminated habitat of the causative pathogen, principally Mycobacterium tuberculosis (Mtb), in humans and the multi-drug resistance of Mtb to current drugs, but especially also to the difficulty of enabling universal treatment of individuals, immunocompromised or otherwise, in widely differing socio-economic environments. For the purpose of globally eliminating TB by 2035, the World Health Organization (WHO) introduced the "End-TB" initiative by employing interventions focusing on high impact, integrated and patient-centered approaches, such as individualized therapy. However, the extraordinary shortfall in stipulated aims, for example in actual treatment and in TB preventative treatments during the period 2018-2022, latterly and greatly exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic, means that even greater pressure is now placed on enhancing our scientific understanding of the disease, repurposing or repositioning old drugs and developing new drugs as well as evolving innovative treatment methods. In the specific context of multidrug resistant Mtb, it is furthermore noted that the incidence of extra-pulmonary TB (EPTB) has significantly increased. This review focusses on the potential of utilizing self-double-emulsifying drug delivery systems (SDEDDSs) as topical drug delivery systems for the dermal route of administration to aid in treatment of cutaneous TB (CTB) and other mycobacterial infections as a prelude to evaluating related systems for more effective treatment of CTB and other mycobacterial infections at large. As a starting point, we consider here the possibility of adapting the highly lipophilic riminophenazine clofazimine, with its potential for treatment of multi-drug resistant TB, for this purpose. Additionally, recently reported synergism achieved by adding clofazimine to first-line TB regimens signifies the need to consider clofazimine. Thus, the biological effects and pharmacology of clofazimine are reviewed. The potential of plant-based oils acting as emulsifiers, skin penetration enhancers as well as these materials behaving as anti-microbial components for transporting the incorporated drug are also discussed.

Statistical FT-IR Spectroscopy for the Characterization of 17 Vegetable Oils

Vegetable oils have been utilized for centuries in the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries, and they contribute beneficially to overall human health, to active skincare, and to effective treatments. Monitoring of the vegetable oils is carried out by the methods described in the European Pharmacopeia, which is time-consuming, has poor repeatability, and involves the use of toxic organic chemicals and expensive laboratory equipment. Many successful studies using IR spectroscopy have been carried out for the detection of geographical origin and adulteration as well as quantification of oxidation parameters. The aim of our research was to explore FT-IR spectroscopy for assessing the quality parameters and fatty acid composition of cranberry, elderberry, borage, blackcurrant, raspberry, black mustard, walnut, sea buckthorn, evening primrose, rosehip, chia, perilla, black cumin, sacha inchi, kiwi, hemp, and linseed oil. Very good models were obtained for the α-linolenic acid and linoleic acid contents, with R2 = 1.00; Rv2 values of 0.98, 0.92, 0.89, and 0.84 were obtained for iodine value prediction, stearic acid content, palmitic acid content, and unsaponifiable matter content, respectively. However, we were not able to obtain good models for all parameters, and the use of the same process for variable selection was found to be not suitable for all cases.

Vegetable Butters and Oils as Therapeutically and Cosmetically Active Ingredients for Dermal Use: A Review of Clinical Studies

While the chemical composition of vegetable butters and oils has been studied in detail, there is limited knowledge about their mechanisms of action after application on the skin. To understand their dermal effects better, 27 clinical studies evaluating 17 vegetable oils (almond, argan, avocado, borage, coconut, evening primrose, kukui, marula, mustard, neem, olive, rapeseed, sacha inchi, safflower, shea butter, soybean and sunflower oils) were reviewed in this research. The reviewed studies focused on non-affected skin, infant skin, psoriasis, xerosis, UVB-induced erythema, atopic dermatitis, molluscum contagiosum, tungiasis, scars, striae and striae gravidarum. We conclude that in inflammation-affected skin, vegetable oils with a high content of oleic acid, together with the lack of or a low linoleic acid content, may cause additional structural damage of the stratum corneum, while oils high in linoleic acid and saturated fatty acids may express positive effects. Non-affected skin, in contrast, may not react negatively to oils high in oleic acid. However, the frequency and duration of an oil's use must be considered an important factor that may accelerate or enhance the negative effects on the skin's structural integrity.

Production and Characterization of a Coconut Oil Incorporated Gelatin-Based Film and Its Potential Biomedical Application

The influence of coconut oil (CO) on a gelatin-based film was investigated when used as a potential wound dressing material. There is limited study on CO in protein-based wound dressing materials. Therefore, in this study a self-supporting, continuous and homogenous CO incorporated gelatin-based film was formulated and obtained by solution casting method. The influence of CO on physicochemical and thermal properties of gelatin-based film was also determined. Moreover, the effect CO in gelatin films on cell viability and cell migration was analysed with a preliminary cell culture study. Homogenous dispersion of 10% (w/w) CO was obtained in films when 3% (v/w) Tween 80, a surfactant, was incorporated to 20% (w/w) plasticized gelatin film forming solution. Effect of CO on gelatin-based film was observed via phase separation by SEM analysis. Water uptake of gelatin film with no CO, GE film; and 10% (w/w) CO incorporated GE film, GE-CO, were 320% and 210%, respectively, after 3 hours in water. FTIR analysis showed triglyceride component of CO and increased hydrogen bonding between NH groups of gelatin in GE-CO films. DSC results suggested a more ordered structure of GE-CO film due to an increase in melt-like transition temperature and melting enthalpy of GE-CO film. CO content also increased cell viability, assessed by XTT Assay since cell viability was approximately 100% when L929 cell culture was incubated with GE-CO of 5-100 μg/mL. Moreover, GE-CO samples within 5-25 μg/mL concentration range, increased proliferation of L929 cells since cell viability was significantly higher than the 100% viable cell culture control (P < 0.05) which is also an indication of efficient healing. However, GE decreased viability of L929 cells significantly at 100-10 μg/mL concentration range (P < 0.05) and were toxic at concentrations of 100, 75 and 50 μg/mL which decreased ∿50% of the viability of the cells. Scratch Assay to assess in vitro wound healing showed cell migration towards scratch after 24 h as an indication of wound healing only in GE-CO samples. This study showed that, CO could efficiently be added to gelatin-based films for preparation of a primary wound dressing biomaterial which is also demonstrated to have a promising wound healing effect for minor wounds.

Stretchable skin hydrating PVB patches with controlled pores' size and shape for deliberate evening primrose oil spreading, transport and release

With the increasing number of skin problems such as atopic dermatitis and the number of affected people, scientists are looking for alternative treatments to standard ointment or cream applications. Electrospun membranes are known for their high porosity and surface to volume area, which leads to a great loading capacity and their applications as skin patches. Polymer fibers are widely used for biomedical applications such as drug delivery systems or regenerative medicine. Importantly, fibrous meshes are used as oil reservoirs due to their excellent absorption properties. In our study, nano- and microfibers of poly (vinyl butyral-co-vinyl alcohol-co-vinyl acetate) (PVB) were electrospun. The biocompatibility of PVB fibers was confirmed with the keratinocytes culture studies, including cells' proliferation and replication tests. To verify the usability and stretchability of electrospun membranes, they were tested in two forms as-spun and elongated after uniaxially stretched. We examine oil transport through the patches for as-spun fibers and compare it with the numerical simulation of oil flow in the 3D reconstruction of nano- and microfiber networks. Evening primrose oil spreading and water vapor transmission rate (WVTR) tests were performed too. Finally, for skin hydration tests, manufactured materials loaded with evening primrose oil were applied to the forearm of volunteers for 6 h, showing increased skin moisture after using patches. This study clearly demonstrates that pore size and shape, together with fiber diameter, influence oil transport in the electrospun patches allowing to understand the key driving process of electrospun PVB patches for skin hydration applications. The oil release improves skin moisture and can be designed regarding the needs, by manufacturing different fibers' sizes and arrangements. The fibrous based patches loaded with oils are easy to handle and could remain on the altered skin for a long time and deliver the oil, therefore they are an ideal material for overnight bandages for skin treatment.

Ethnopharmacology for Skin Diseases and Cosmetics during the COVID-19 Pandemic in Lithuania

The documentation of ethnopharmaceutical knowledge has always been important for the preservation of countries’ cultural, social, and economic identity. The COVID-19 pandemic with the collapse of healthcare, which has left the individual health to self-care, has also forced us to look back at ethnopharmacology from a practical point of view. This is the first study in Lithuania, dedicated entirely to ethnopharmaceuticals used for skin diseases and cosmetics, and the first study to analyse ethnopharmacology as a Lithuanian phenomenon during the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. The main purpose of this study was to collect and evaluate ethnopharmaceutical knowledge regarding skin diseases and cosmetics in Šiauliai District, Lithuania during the COVID-19 pandemic from July 2020 to October 2021. This study surveyed 50 respondents; the survey was conducted using the deep interview method. The respondents mentioned 67 species of medicinal plants from 37 different families used for skin diseases (64.18%), cosmetics (13.44%) and cosmeceuticals (22.38%). Of the 67 plant species, 43 (64%) were not included in the European Medicines Agency monographs and only 14 species (21%) of all included species were used with European Medicines Agency approved medical indications for skin diseases. In terms of public health, the safety of “self-treatment” and recovery rituals for skin diseases are no less important than ethnopharmacological knowledge and its application, this being especially relevant during the COVID-19 pandemic.

p-Menthadienols-rich essential oil from Cymbopogon martini ameliorates skin inflammation

Cymbopogon martini variety sofia, commonly known as ginger-grass, is an important aromatic crop used by the perfumery, medicinal and cosmetic industries worldwide. This study explores the chemical and possible pharmacological profile of hydro-distilled essential oil of C. martini variety sofia against skin inflammation. The essential oil extracted by the hydrodistillation process was analyzed by gas chromatography (GC), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (NMR) to identify its constituents, and was coded as CMA-01 for further in vitro and in vivo pharmacological study related to skin inflammation. The chemical fingerprint revealed that CMA-01 oil has (E)-p-mentha-2,8-dien-1-ol (21.0%), (E)-p-mentha-1(7),8-dien-2-ol (18.1%), (Z)-p-mentha-1(7),8-dien-2-ol (17.4%), (Z)-p-mentha-2,8-dien-1-ol (9.0%), limonene (7.7%), and (E)-carveol (5.7%) as major components. The pre-treatment of CMA-01 showed significant inhibition of pro-inflammatory markers in activated HaCat cells without cytotoxic effect. The in vivo study revealed the ameliorative impact of CMA-01 against skin inflammation induced by TPA in mouse ears as evidenced by a reduction of ear edema, pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-6, TNF-α), oxidative stress markers (malondialdehyde and nitric-oxide) and histological changes in ear tissues without any skin irritation response on rabbit skin. These findings suggest the suitability of CMA-01 as a valuable therapeutic candidate for the treatment of skin inflammation.

Cannabis-Based Products for the Treatment of Skin Inflammatory Diseases: A Timely Review

The use of natural products in dermatology is increasingly being pursued due to sustainability and ecological issues, and as a possible way to improve the therapeutic outcome of chronic skin diseases, relieving the burden for both patients and healthcare systems. The legalization of cannabis by a growing number of countries has opened the way for researching the use of cannabinoids in therapeutic topical formulations. Cannabinoids are a diverse class of pharmacologically active compounds produced by Cannabis sativa (phytocannabinoids) and similar molecules (endocannabinoids, synthetic cannabinoids). Humans possess an endocannabinoid system involved in the regulation of several physiological processes, which includes naturally-produced endocannabinoids, and proteins involved in their transport, synthesis and degradation. The modulation of the endocannabinoid system is a promising therapeutic target for multiple diseases, including vascular, mental and neurodegenerative disorders. However, due to the complex nature of this system and its crosstalk with other biological systems, the development of novel target drugs is an ongoing challenging task. The discovery of a skin endocannabinoid system and its role in maintaining skin homeostasis, alongside the anti-inflammatory actions of cannabinoids, has raised interest in their use for the treatment of skin inflammatory diseases, which is the focus of this review. Oral treatments are only effective at high doses, having considerable adverse effects; thus, research into plant-based or synthetic cannabinoids that can be incorporated into high-quality, safe topical products for the treatment of inflammatory skin conditions is timely. Previous studies revealed that such products are usually well tolerated and showed promising results for example in the treatment of atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and contact dermatitis. However, further controlled human clinical trials are needed to fully unravel the potential of these compounds, and the possible side effects associated with their topical use.

Effects of sub-acute co-exposure to WIFI (2.45 GHz) and Pistacia lentiscus oil treatment on wound healing by primary intention in male rabbits

Background

The bioeffects of WIFI on cutaneous wound healing remains unexplored. In addition, several medicinal plant products including lentisk oil have been shown to interfere with wound healing process. Since the use of this oil is increasing, the co‐exposure (WIFI‐Lentisk oil) assessment is of paramount importance.

Objectives

We aimed in the present study to investigate the effects of WIFI exposure as well as the application of Pistacia lentiscus oil on sutured wounds (SW).

Methods

New Zealand male rabbits (n = 24) were used and randomly divided into four groups of six animals each: a control group (SW) and three experimental groups (i) a first group exposed to WIFI (2.45 GHz, 6 h/day) during 16 days (SWW); (ii) a second group exposed to WIFI (2.45 GHz, 6 h/day) during 16 days and treated with lentisk oil (SWWL) and (iii) a third group not exposed to WIFI but treated with lentisk oil (SWL). The wound healing was evaluated by monitoring clinical parameters (temperature, food intake, relative weight variation, and macroscopic aspect) and histology.

Results

The mean food intake was higher in the SWWL group compared to the three other groups (p < 0.001) and higher in the SWL group compared to the SW group (p = 0.014). The exposition to WIFI (SWW group) or lentisk oil application (SWL group) can promote the collagen deposition and ameliorate the general aspect of wounds. By contrast, the co‐exposure to WIFI and lentisk oil (SWWL) results in antagonist effects and extends the inflammatory phase of wound healing.

Conclusions

Wounds treated topically with Pistacia lentiscus oil should not be exposed to WIFI.

Skincare application of medicinal plant polysaccharides - A review

Polysaccharides are macromolecules with important inherent properties and potential biotechnological applications. These complex carbohydrates exist throughout nature, especially in plants, from which they can be obtained with high yields. Different extraction and purification methods may affect the structure of polysaccharides and, due to the close relationship between structure and function, modify their biological activities. One of the possible applications of these polysaccharides is acting on the skin, which is the largest organ in the human body and can be aged by intrinsic and extrinsic processes. Skincare has been gaining worldwide attention not only to prevent diseases but also to promote rejuvenation in aesthetic treatments. In this review, we discussed the polysaccharides obtained from plants and their innovative potential for skin applications, for example as wound-healing, antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, antitumoral, and anti-aging compounds.

An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications

Renewed consumer and industry interest in natural ingredients has led to a large growth of natural cosmetics. This has put pressure on formulation skills and product claims when it comes to using natural compounds. Taking a strategic and comprehensive approach in viewing natural ingredients, including natural oils, as 'active' ingredients rather than just providing for so-called 'natural' claims, aids both innovation and development. Given the ever-increasing consumer demand for natural ingredients, and more importantly the demand for effective natural ingredients including plant oils, it is important for the cosmetic industry to re-evaluate them in this context. The objectives of this review are to provide an update of three popular cosmetic plant oils - Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose, and Jojoba - in terms of their cosmetic applications as 'active' ingredients. This review highlights the activity of these oils, in the management of dry skin, ageing skin, juvenile skin, atopic dermatitis, scalp conditions, and their wider potential. Attention is given to formulation considerations where the content of these oils impacts product oxidation, skin penetration and stratum corneum homeostasis. Benefits of these oils have been well documented both pre-clinically and clinically. Historically, they have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years for their management and treatment of various skin and other ailments. Given the discrepancies in some clinical data presented for a variety of dermatoses, the importance of the choice of oil and how to formulate with them within the context of the epidermal barrier function, skin penetration, and toxicity, cannot be underestimated. Care should be taken in terms of the quality and stability of theses oils, as well as ensuring best formulation type, if the reported activities of these oils are to be achieved with consistency. Despite discrepancies in the literature and questionable study designs, it is clear, that Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba oils, do have skin care benefits for both adult and juvenile applications. They are effective ingredients for skin care preparations to strengthen stratum corneum integrity, recovery, and lipid ratio. Nevertheless, further experimental data are required concerning the impact on stratum corneum physiology and structure.

The Role of Complementary and Alternative Medicine in Facial Plastic Surgery

Complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) has become increasingly popular among facial plastic surgery patients. Over the last few decades, there has been a surge in the use of CAM. Despite the increasing prevalence of CAM, patients may feel uncomfortable discussing these therapies with their physicians, and physicians feel under-equipped to engage in meaningful discussions regarding these nontraditional therapies. This article reviews recent literature on the use of CAM for skin treatment in an attempt to provide additional resource. To date, the evidence to support statistically significant symptom improvement with use of non-traditional therapies remains limited. While preliminary data supports essential oil therapy in some cases, the results of the studies investigating other CAM therapies (traditional Chinese medicine, Ayurveda, and homeopathy) have been mixed and inconclusive.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

Tilia sp. Seed Oil—Composition, Antioxidant Activity and Potential Use

Research on new, untapped seed oil sources is receiving increased attention. In this study, 18 different seed samples of Tilia cordata and Tilia platyphyllos from various locations in Slovenia were collected and oil was extracted. The compositions of triglyceride fatty acids and unsaponifiable compounds were determined using GC-MS, while antioxidant activity was evaluated using the DPPH method. The oil content in the seeds varied significantly, from 9.1% to 21.7%. Linoleic acid (50–60%) was found to be the predominant fatty acid, followed by oleic acid (18–22%) and palmitic acid (8–9%). Characteristic cyclopropene fatty acids (sterculic, dihydrosterculic and malvalic acids) were present in the average range of 4–8.4%. Antioxidant activity ranged from 8.9% to 65.5%, and was higher, on average, for T. platyphyllos. Higher antioxidant activity was closely correlated with higher γ-tocopherol contents. Statistically significant correlations were confirmed between antioxidant activity and γ-tocopherol, between Δ-tocopherol and phytol, between stigmasterol and β-sitosterol and between squalene and malvalic acid. Tilia oil may be of great interest for cosmetic and dermal preparations. It is, however, not considered a good source of dietary fatty acids due to the undesired, significant content of omega-6 fatty acids.

Characterizing the Mechanism of Action of Essential Oils on Skin Homeostasis—Data from Sonographic Imaging, Epidermal Water Dynamics, and Skin Biomechanics

Essential oils (EOs) have been recognized as materials of interest for dermatological applications, although some doubts remain regarding their safety and efficacy. We studied the action mechanisms of EOs from lavender and sage in human skin. Extracted EOs were incorporated (at 5% and 10%) in almond oil as a vehicle. Eleven healthy volunteers were selected and the prepared oils were tested on both forearms. All procedures respected the principles of good clinical practice. Effects were followed through high resolution sonography (HRS), epidermal water dynamics, and biomechanics. All variables were measured before and 30 min after application. Nonparametric statistical comparisons were applied (p < 0.05). HRS revealed a more echogenic epidermis, with a significant echogenicity decrease in the dermis (higher water retention) for all formulations. Significant TEWL decrease and an increase in superficial and deep epidermal hydration were also observed. These results indicate that EOs penetrate only into the most superficial layers of the skin, which is important for their safety profile. Furthermore, this “filmogenic” mechanism improving the epidermal water balance seems to connect directly with the observed biomechanical enhancement. These results confirm the clinical relevance of these compounds, in particular to restore the epidermal water content and prevent xerosis and other related disorders in sensitive (atopic, elderly) patients.

Extraction and Characterization of the Polar Lipid Fraction of Blackberry and Passion Fruit Seeds Oils Using Supercritical Fluid Extraction

The study of the phytochemical composition of seed oils is of upmost importance for the food and cosmetic industries, mainly considering their associated biological properties. Extraction of seed oils using supercritical fluids (SFE) is an ecological and green alternative to conventional extraction processes since it is able to provide with potent bioactive extracts, avoiding degradation and transformation of the compounds present originally in the raw material. The objective of the present work was the extraction of pure fractions of polar lipids and their chemical characterization using chromatographic techniques such as GC-MS and LC-DAD-MS/MS of blackberry (Rubus glaucus) and passion fruit (Passiflora edulis) seed oils extracted by supercritical carbon dioxide. Oleamides derived from oleic acid were identified as the main compounds in both samples; in particular, 9-octadecenamide was the major identified oleamide. Besides, the extract obtained from passion fruit showed to be a source of linoleic acid, while the SFE extract from blackberry presented important concentrations of vanillin. The chemical composition of these seed oils can be of high interest for their further use in cosmetics and food industry.

Preliminary evaluation of two bathing methods for the management of Malassezia overgrowth in dogs with atopic dermatitis

BACKGROUND

Antifungal shampoos are widely used for canine Malassezia dermatitis. Few studies have evaluated effective bathing methods for atopic dogs with Malassezia overgrowth.

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate the efficacy of an emollient bathing product (AFLOAT VET) and 2% miconazole/2% chlorhexidine shampoo (2% MIC/CHX) in atopic dogs, and to evaluate the influence on skin barrier function of both products in healthy dogs.

ANIMALS

Sixteen atopic dogs with secondary Malassezia overgrowth and 11 healthy dogs.

METHODS AND MATERIALS

This study was a randomized, single-blinded trial. The dogs were randomly treated with either emollient bathing or 2% MIC/CHX, twice weekly for four weeks. Clinical assessment used the Canine Atopic Dermatitis Extent and Severity Index, 4^th iteration (CADESI-04), pruritus Visual Analog Scale (pVAS), and cytological evaluation of yeast numbers at Day (D)0, D14 and D28. Skin barrier function was determined by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after a single bathing procedure with each product in the healthy dogs.

RESULTS

The pVAS scores and yeast counts were significantly reduced on D28 compared with D0 in both groups (P < 0.05). CADESI-04 was significantly decreased on D28 in the emollient bathing group (P = 0.003). There were no significant differences in each endpoint score between the groups. In healthy dogs, TEWL was significantly increased after bathing in both groups (P < 0.01).

CONCLUSION

An emollient bathing product can be effective for Malassezia overgrowth in dogs with atopic dermatitis. Bathing with shampoo products might affect skin barrier function even when using an emollient product.

Effects of ten vegetable oils on heterocyclic amine profiles in roasted beef patties using UPLC-MS/MS combined with principal component analysis

Soybean oil (SBO), rapeseed oil (RSO), peanut oil (PO), corn oil (CO), olive oil (OO), sunflower oil (SFO), rice germ oil (RGO), walnut oil (WO), torreya seed oil (TSO), and grapeseed oil (GSO) were used to investigate the formation of heterocyclic amines (HAs) in roasted beef patties. Seven HAs, including 2-amino-3,8-dimethylimidazo[4,5-f]quinoxaline (MeIQx), 2-amino-3,4-dimethyl-3H-imidazo[4,5-f]quinolone (MeIQ), 2-amino-3-methyl-3H-imidazo[4,5-f]quinoxaline (IQx), 2-amino-3,4,8-trimethylimidazo[4,5-f]quinoxaline (4,8-DiMeIQx), 2-amino-1-methyl-6-phenylimidazo[4,5-b]pyridine (PhIP), 1-methyl-9H-pyrido[3,4-b]indole (harman), and 9H-pyrido[3,4-b]indole (norharman) were detected in control patties and patties with vegetable oils. GSO, SFO, and WO greatly reduced the content of PhIP and MeIQ. 1.25%TSO and 3.75% RGO showed higher inhibition effects on the more strongly mutagenic compounds (PhIP, MeIQ, IQx, 4,8-DiMeIQx, MeIQx). SBO, PO, and RSO promoted imidazoquin(ox)aline (MeIQ, MeIQx, 4,8-DiMeIQx, and IQx) and β-carboline (harman and norharman); 1.25% SBO had the most significant promoting effect on total HA. This could be useful for the reduction of HA by selecting oils during cooking.

Isosorbide Di-(Linoleate/Oleate) Stimulates Prodifferentiation Gene Expression to Restore the Epidermal Barrier and Improve Skin Hydration

The breakdown of the epidermal barrier and consequent loss of skin hydration is a feature of skin aging and eczematous dermatitis. Few treatments, however, resolve these underlying processes to provide full symptomatic relief. In this study, we evaluated isosorbide di-(linoleate/oleate) (IDL), which was generated by esterifying isosorbide with sunflower fatty acids. Topical effects of IDL in skin were compared with those of ethyl linoleate/oleate, which has previously been shown to improve skin barrier function. Both IDL and ethyl linoleate/oleate downregulated inflammatory gene expression, but IDL more effectively upregulated the expression of genes associated with keratinocyte differentiation (e.g., KRT1, GRHL2, SPRR4). Consistent with this, IDL increased the abundance of epidermal barrier proteins (FLG and involucrin) and prevented cytokine-mediated stratum corneum degradation. IDL also downregulated the expression of unhealthy skin signature genes linked to the loss of epidermal homeostasis and uniquely repressed an IFN-inducible coexpression module activated in multiple skin diseases, including psoriasis. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial enrolling females with dry skin, 2% IDL lotion applied over 2 weeks significantly improved skin hydration and decreased transepidermal water loss (NCT04253704). These results demonstrate mechanisms by which IDL improves skin hydration and epidermal barrier function, supporting IDL as an effective intervention for the treatment of xerotic pruritic skin.