A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation

Anticancer potential of hydroxycinnamic acids: mechanisms, bioavailability, and therapeutic applications

Hydroxycinnamic acids (HCAs) are plant compounds with anticancer potential due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, apoptosis-inducing, and proliferation-inhibiting effects. This review aims to consolidate and analyze current knowledge on the anticancer effects of HCAs, exploring their mechanisms of action, bioavailability challenges, and potential therapeutic applications. A comprehensive literature search on PubMed/MedLine, Scopus, Web of Science, and Google Scholar focused on the anticancer properties, mechanisms, bioavailability, and safety profiles of HCAs. Studies have shown that HCAs, such as caffeic acid, ferulic acid, and sinapic acid, inhibit the growth of cancer cells in vitro and in vivo and sensitize cancer cells to chemotherapy and radiation therapy. These effects are mediated by mechanisms including the inhibition of cell survival pathways, modulation of gene expression, and induction of oxidative stress and DNA damage. Additionally, several studies have demonstrated that HCAs exhibit selective toxicity, with a higher propensity to induce cell death in cancerous cells compared to normal cells. However, the toxicity profile of HCAs can vary depending on the specific compound, dosage, and experimental conditions. The anticancer properties of HCAs suggest potential applications in cancer prevention and treatment. However, it is essential to distinguish between their use as dietary supplements and therapeutic agents, as the dosage and formulation suitable for dietary supplements may be insufficient for therapeutic purposes. The regulatory and practical implications of using HCAs in these different contexts require careful consideration. Further research is needed to determine appropriate dosages, formulations, long-term effects, and regulatory frameworks for HCAs as both dietary supplements and therapeutic agents.

The Impact of Carboxytherapy and Treatments Combining Carboxytherapy and Selected Chemical Peels on Vascular and Pigmentary Components of the Dark Circles

Objective

Particular attention is given to the enhancement of melanin-related pigmentation (dark circles, photoaging) and vascular circles, which are commonly located in the tear trough. The objective of the study is to provide an objective evaluation of the impact of carboxytherapy and the treatment regimen combining carboxytherapy with lactobionic acid (20%, pH 2.1) or ferulic acid (14%, pH 4.0-5.0) and ascorbic acid (12%) on skin defects in the eye area.

Materials and Methods

A group of 39 Caucasian people were subjected to a series of five carboxytherapy treatments (right eye area) and five treatments combining carboxytherapy with a selected chemical peel for the skin around the eyes (left eye area). The efficacy of therapy was assessed based on parameters (MI and EI) measured with the Mexameter probe. Measurements were made in the tear trough and the middle of the lower eyelid.

Results

We demonstrated that a series of carboxytherapy (right side) significantly statistically influenced the EI parameter (in different measurement points: P <0.0001, P = 0.015, P = 0.002), which reflects the intensity of vascular circles under the eyes. Improvement of this parameter by 7.2 units was also shown in the tear trough in 82.1% of participants after the application of carboxytherapy combined with acids (left side) on the valley of tears for this parameter (EI). Lactobionic acid and carboxytherapy were associated with a statistically significant improvement (P = 0.011) in the tear trough. In this study, a reduction in the combined pigmentation (MI plus EI) for both the right and left sides (p = 0.001 and p = 0.015, respectively) was observed.

Conclusion

The study provides objective evidence for the effectiveness of sole carboxytherapy and carboxytherapy combined with acids in the reduction of dark circles, in particular vascular circles in the tear trough. Lactobionic acid, ferulic acid, and ascorbic acid can be used as safe supplements to enhance carboxytherapy.

Understanding Active Photoprotection: DNA-Repair Enzymes and Antioxidants

The detrimental effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on human skin are well-documented, encompassing DNA damage, oxidative stress, and an increased risk of carcinogenesis. Conventional photoprotective measures predominantly rely on filters, which scatter or absorb UV radiation, yet fail to address the cellular damage incurred post-exposure. To fill this gap, antioxidant molecules and DNA-repair enzymes have been extensively researched, offering a paradigm shift towards active photoprotection capable of both preventing and reversing UV-induced damage. In the current review, we focused on "active photoprotection", assessing the state-of-the-art, latest advancements and scientific data from clinical trials and in vivo models concerning the use of DNA-repair enzymes and naturally occurring antioxidant molecules.

Antioxidants in Photoaging: From Molecular Insights to Clinical Applications

Photoaging (PA) is considered a silent disease affecting millions of people globally and is defined as skin damage due to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) from the sun. Physiologically, the skin is in a state of renewal and synthesis of components of the extracellular matrix (ECM). However, exposure to UVR affects the production of the ECM, and the functioning and response of skin cells to UVR begins to change, thus expressing clinical and phenotypic characteristics of PA. The primary mechanisms involved in PA are direct damage to the DNA of skin cells, increases in oxidative stress, the activation of cell signaling pathways responsible for the loss of skin integrity, and cytotoxicity. The medical and scientific community has been researching new therapeutic tools that counteract PA, considering that the damage caused by UVR exceeds the antioxidant defense mechanisms of the skin. Thus, in recent years, certain nutraceuticals and phytochemicals have been found to exhibit potential antioxidant and photoprotective effects. Therefore, the main objective of this review is to elucidate the molecular bases of PA and the latest pharmaceutical industry findings on antioxidant treatment against the progression of PA.

Evidence-Based Utility of Adjunct Antioxidant Supplementation for the Prevention and Treatment of Dermatologic Diseases: A Comprehensive Systematic Review

Skin conditions are a significant cause of fatal and nonfatal disease burdens globally, ranging from mild irritations to debilitating diseases. Oxidative stress, which is an imbalance between reactive oxygen species and the cells' ability to repair damage, is implicated in various skin diseases. Antioxidants have been studied for their potential benefits in dermatologic health, but the evidence is limited and conflicting. Herein, we conducted a systematic review of controlled trials, meta-analyses, and Cochrane review articles to evaluate the current evidence on the utility of antioxidant supplementation for adjunct prevention and treatment of skin disease and to provide a comprehensive assessment of their role in promoting dermatologic health. The Cochrane Library, PubMed, EMBASE, and Epistemonikos databases were queried. Eligibility criteria included (1) primary focus on nanoparticle utility for skin cancer; (2) includes measurable outcomes data with robust comparators; (3) includes a number of human subjects or cell-line types, where applicable; (4) English language; and (5) archived as full-text journal articles. A total of 55 articles met the eligibility criteria for the present review. Qualitative analysis revealed that topical and oral antioxidant supplementation has demonstrated preliminary efficacy in reducing sunburns, depigmentation, and photoaging. Dietary exogenous antioxidants (namely vitamins A, C, and E) have shown chemopreventive effects against skin cancer. Antioxidant supplementation has also shown efficacy in treating non-cancer dermatoses, including rosacea, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and acne vulgaris. While further studies are needed to validate these findings on a larger scale, antioxidant supplementation holds promise for improving skin health and preventing skin diseases.

Effects of Plant-Derived Dietary Supplements on Skin Health: A Review

Dietary supplements have become increasingly popular to improve facial appearance and optimize skin health. With countless supplements available online and in stores, there are unlimited options for patients to choose from. Federal law does not require the Food and Drug Administration to assess each product's efficacy before its appearance on the market. Therefore, evidence-based medicine is vital for dermatologists to provide adequate recommendations regarding the safety and efficacy of various dietary supplements. The goal of this review is to evaluate plant-derived, antioxidant oral supplements and their effects on wrinkle appearance, skin hydration, skin elasticity, and photoprotection.

Phytochemicals in Cancer Treatment and Cancer Prevention-Review on Epidemiological Data and Clinical Trials

Phytochemicals are a non-nutritive substances that are present in plants and contribute significantly to their flavor and color. These biologically active compounds are classified into five major groups, namely phenolics, carotenoids, organosulfur compounds, nitrogen-containing compounds, and alkaloids, and are known for their potential health benefits in the prevention of various diseases, including cancer. The purpose of this review article is to explore the potential therapeutic benefits of the dietary phytochemicals, such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, phytosterols, carotenoids, and stilbenes, in cancer treatment and prevention based on the epidemiological studies and clinical trials. Although the majority of epidemiological studies report a significant advantage of the heightened phytochemical consumption and increased serum levels of these compounds, linking increased exposure with a lower cancer risk across most cancer types, these effects could not be replicated in the most available clinical trials. In fact, many of these trials were withdrawn early due to a lack of evidence and/or risk of harm. Despite the strong anticancer effect of phytochemicals, as well as their proven efficacy in multiple epidemiological studies, there is still a great need for human studies and clinical trials, with great caution regarding the safety measures. This review article provides an overview of the epidemiological and clinical evidence supporting the potential chemopreventive and anticancer properties of phytochemicals, with a focus on the need for further research in this area.

Interventions for preventing keratinocytic cancer in patients with a history of a previous keratinocytic carcinoma: A systematic review

Keratinocyte cancer (KC) is the most common cancer worldwide. It is important to analyze the actual interventions that are available for the prevention of patients with a previous history of a KC. We aim to review the existent literature to assess the efficacy and safety of interventions to prevent KC in patients with a history of previous KC. We searched clinical trials in which the main outcome was the prevention of KC in patients with a previous history of KC using the strategy published in the International Prospective Register of Systematic Reviews (PROSPERO registry), CRD42016045981. We analyzed 18 clinical trials from which eight reported a benefit with their respective intervention but had methodological flaws and a variable risk of bias. Two clinical trials (regarding celecoxib and oral supplementation with nicotinamide) seemed to have the most beneficial results reducing the incidence of KC in treated groups. However, all of the studies are highly heterogeneous, which does not allow a meta-analysis to be performed. New studies with greater epidemiological value should be conducted.

A Subjective and Objective Assessment of Combined Methods of Applying Chemical Peels and Microneedling in Antiaging Treatments

Combined methods of applying chemical peels and antioxidants could be an option for skin rejuvenation with no down-time. The penetration of active substances can be enhanced by microneedle mesotherapy. The study was conducted on a group of 20 female volunteers, aged 40-65 years. All volunteers received a series of eight treatments performed every seven days. The whole face was first treated with azelaic acid; following this, the right side received a 40% solution of vitamin C and the left side 10% vitamin C with microneedling. Hydration and skin elasticity were markedly improved, with better results observed on the microneedling side. Melanin and erythema index decreased. No significant side effects were seen. The combination of active ingredients and delivery techniques have great potential to enhance the effectiveness of cosmetic preparations, probably by multidirectional ways of action. In our study, we demonstrated that both 20% azelaic acid + 40% vitamin C treatment and 20% azelaic acid + 10% vitamin C + microneedle mesotherapy efficiently improved the assessed parameters of aging skin. However, the use of microneedling mesotherapy as a means of direct delivery of active compound to the dermis enhanced the effectiveness of the studied preparation.

Photoprotection in skin of color

As populations in many parts of the world are projected to become more racially diverse over the coming decades, we must better understand the unique characteristics of the skin of populations with skin of color (SOC). This review aims to highlight important physiologic and clinical considerations of photoprotection in SOC. Ultraviolet radiation and visible light affect dark and light skin differently. SOC populations have historically not been informed on photoprotection to the same degree as their light skinned counterparts. This has exacerbated dermatologic conditions in which SOC populations are disproportionately affected, such as hyperpigmentary disorders. Patients should be encouraged to utilize multiple methods of photoprotection, ranging from avoidance of sunlight during peak intensity hours, seeking shade, wearing sun-protective clothing and wide-brimmed hat, and applying sunscreen. Ideal sunscreens for SOC populations include those with UVA-PF/SPF ratios ≥ 2/3 and tinted sunscreens to protect against VL. Although there have been increased efforts recently, more research into photoprotection for SOC and targeted public education are required to disseminate photoprotection resources that are patient-centered and evidence-based.

Beneficial effects of oral supplementation with ferulic acid, a plant phenolic compound, on the human skin barrier in healthy men

Ferulic acid (FA) is a phytochemical compound with various physiologic functions. To clarify the effect of FA intake on skin barrier function (SBF), we conducted a placebo-controlled double-blind pilot trial. Sixteen healthy subjects were divided into 2 groups (n = 8) and ingested capsules containing either FA (200 mg) or placebo daily for 2 weeks. Two measures of SBF, transepidermal water loss and stratum corneum hydration, were assessed before and 2 weeks after the start of the study. Autonomic nervous activity, which is suggested to be related to SBF, was also measured. Compared with the values obtained before the start of the study, FA intake significantly reduced transepidermal water loss (from 6.1 ± 1.1 to 4.8 ± 1.0 g/m²/h, p = 0.005) and increased stratum corneum hydration (from 30.1 ± 7.6 to 32.3 ± 8.1 a.u., p = 0.027) after 2 weeks. In addition, the amount change in sympathetic nervous activity was significantly reduced after ingesting the FA capsules compared with the placebo capsules (-0.7 ± 1.6 vs. 1.1 ± 1.4, p = 0.035). These findings suggest that FA supplementation decreases sympathetic nervous activity and strengthens SBF in healthy men.

Ultraviolet Light Protection: Is It Really Enough?

Our current understanding of the pathogenesis of skin aging includes the role of ultraviolet light, visible light, infrared, pollution, cigarette smoke and other environmental exposures. The mechanism of action common to these exposures is the disruption of the cellular redox balance by the directly or indirectly increased formation of reactive oxygen species that overwhelm the intrinsic antioxidant defense system, resulting in an oxidative stress condition. Altered redox homeostasis triggers downstream pathways that contribute to tissue oxinflammation (cross-talk between inflammation and altered redox status) and accelerate skin aging. In addition, both ultraviolet light and pollution increase intracellular free iron that catalyzes reactive oxygen species generation via the Fenton reaction. This disruption of iron homeostasis within the cell further promotes oxidative stress and contributes to extrinsic skin aging. More recent studies have demonstrated that iron chelators can be used topically and can enhance the benefits of topically applied antioxidants. Thus, an updated, more comprehensive approach to environmental or atmospheric aging protection should include sun protective measures, broad spectrum sunscreens, antioxidants, chelating agents, and DNA repair enzymes.

Ferulic acid - a novel topical agent in reducing signs of photoaging

INTRODUCTION

Continuous production of reactive oxygen species, induced by UV radiation, is one of the main mechanisms contributing to skin photoaging. Therefore, the use of novel superior antioxidants, which ferulic acid belongs to, is an innovative treatment option. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of 14% ferulic acid peel on skin hydration, topography, the level of melanin, and the severity of erythema, in people with skin photoaging symptoms.

METHODS

20 women aged 45 to 60, received 8 treatments of chemical peeling in 1-week intervals. Efficacy was measured using The Multi Probe Adapter (MPA) Systems (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany). The measurements were taken before, 8, and 12 weeks after the first treatment. Additionally, the photo documentation was made with Fotomedicus (Elfo) and VISIA® Complexion Analysis System (Canfield Scientific, Inc.). Results The objective evaluation showed statistically significant improvement in all measured skin parameters (P<0,05). The best results of skin hydration and melanin level were observed right after the end of the series (P<0,001). The best improvement in erythema reduction was noted a month after the last treatment (P<0,0001). At the control, untreated point none of the probes showed statistically significant changes.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, a series of treatments with 14% ferulic acid peel has a significant bleaching, erythema-reducing, and moisturizing activity. The results achieved by apparatus, are reflected by photo documentation. The effects achieved during a series persist over time.

Recent Updates on Nanocosmeceutical Skin Care and Anti-Aging Products

Nanotechnology is an innovative area of science that deals with things smaller than 100 nanometers. The influence of nanotechnology in the cosmetic industry is overwhelming since it can enhance the properties attained by the particles at the nano level which includes color, solubility, etc, and also promotes the bioavailability of API. A plethora of nanomaterials can be employed in cosmetics including organic and inorganic nanoparticles. Unlike orthodox carriers, they facilitate easy penetration of the product into the skin and thereby increasing the stability and allowing a controlled drug release so that they can permeate deeper into the skin and start revitalizing it. Nanomaterials rejuvenate the skin by forming an occlusive barrier to inhibit the loss of water from the skin's surface and thereby moisturize the skin. Nano-cosmeceuticals are used to provide better protection against UV radiation, facilitate deeper skin penetration, and give long-lasting effects. Although they still have some safety concerns, hence detailed characterization or risk assessments are required to fulfill the standard safety requirements. In this review, an attempt is made to make a brief overview of various nanocosmeceutical skincare and anti-aging products.

NRF2 and Key Transcriptional Targets in Melanoma Redox Manipulation

Melanocytes are dendritic, pigment-producing cells located in the skin and are responsible for its protection against the deleterious effects of solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR), which include DNA damage and elevated reactive oxygen species (ROS). They do so by synthesizing photoprotective melanin pigments and distributing them to adjacent skin cells (e.g., keratinocytes). However, melanocytes encounter a large burden of oxidative stress during this process, due to both exogenous and endogenous sources. Therefore, melanocytes employ numerous antioxidant defenses to protect themselves; these are largely regulated by the master stress response transcription factor, nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2). Key effector transcriptional targets of NRF2 include the components of the glutathione and thioredoxin antioxidant systems. Despite these defenses, melanocyte DNA often is subject to mutations that result in the dysregulation of the proliferative mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathway and the cell cycle. Following tumor initiation, endogenous antioxidant systems are co-opted, a consequence of elevated oxidative stress caused by metabolic reprogramming, to establish an altered redox homeostasis. This altered redox homeostasis contributes to tumor progression and metastasis, while also complicating the application of exogenous antioxidant treatments. Further understanding of melanocyte redox homeostasis, in the presence or absence of disease, would contribute to the development of novel therapies to aid in the prevention and treatment of melanomas and other skin diseases.

Efficacy of sunscreen with photolyase or regular sunscreen associated with topical antioxidants in treating advanced photodamage and cutaneous field cancerization: a randomized clinical trial

BACKGROUND

Several treatments are available for skin with advanced photodamage, which is characterized by the presence of actinic keratoses (AK).

OBJECTIVES

Evaluate the efficacy of using sunscreen with photolyase compared to regular sunscreen, as well as to compare the combination of a topical formulation of antioxidants versus placebo in the treatment of advanced photodamage.

METHODS

This was a randomized, double-blind, factorial clinical trial. Participants with AKs on their forearms were randomized to apply regular sunscreen (SC) or sunscreen with photolyase (SC+P) on both forearms during the day. One of the forearms in each group was randomized again to receive topical antioxidants (AOx), and the other forearm received a placebo cream (both for night application). The four groups were SC/AOx, SC/placebo, SC+P/AOx, and SC+P/placebo. The duration of treatment was 8 weeks. Primary outcomes were total AK clearance, decrease in Forearm Photoaging Scale (FPS), and AK severity scores. Secondary outcomes were reduction in AK count, partial clearance rate, and safety.

RESULTS

Forty participants (80 forearms) were included. All groups showed significant improvement in outcomes at week eight. There were no significant differences between SC and SC+P for either outcome. AOx led to a significant reduction in AK count (22%; p < 0.05). Partial clearance was obtained in 18 (47.4%) forearms treated with AOx and in 9 (23.7%) treated with placebo (p < 0.05). All groups reduced the FPS score, without significant differences among them.

CONCLUSIONS

There is no difference in the treatment of advanced photodamage skin when comparing the use of sunscreen with photolyase and regular sunscreen, and topical antioxidants were more efficient in reducing AK count than placebo.

STUDY LIMITATIONS

Short interval of follow-up and absence of re-evaluation in the absence of treatment were limitations of the present study.

Two superior antioxidants: Ferulic acid and ascorbic acid in reducing signs of photoaging-A split-face comparative study

The assessment of the signs of photoaging in mexametric (melanin and erythema index), corneometric (hydration level), and cutometric (elasticity) examination after the treatment with ascorbic acid and ferulic acid. This study was conducted in a group of 20 women aged 39-61 (mean age 54), with Fitzpatrick skin types II and III. The study included a series of eight treatments performed once a week. Two layers of peeling, based on 14% ferulic acid (left half of the face) and 12% l-ascorbic acid serum (right half of the face) were applied. To determine skin parameters: moisture, elasticity, melanin level, and erythema intensity, the Multi Probe Adapter Systems (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) were used. Additionally, before and after the series of treatments, photographs were taken with the standardized photographic system Fotomedicus (Elfo®). The results of mexametric measurement for melanin level and erythema intensity were statistically significant (p < 0.0001) for both acids. Slightly greater lightening of the skin was demonstrated for ascorbic acid. The results of corneometric measurement of hydration level for ferulic acid and ascorbic acid were both statistically significant (p < 0.0001). First beneficial changes in improved elasticity could be observed as early as after 8 weeks but the increase in flexibility grew with time (after 12 weeks). These changes affected both acids and all measurement points. The changes in parameters were highly statistically significant (p < 0.0001). Based on the conducted research, it is not possible to state which of the tested acids is more effective in reducing the symptoms of photoaging. Both acids (ascorbic and ferulic), which have a high antioxidant potential, affect the measurable parameters of the skin: pigmentation (melanin index), erythema (erythema index), skin hydration, and elasticity.

Deferoxamine Treatment Improves Antioxidant Cosmeceutical Formulation Protection against Cutaneous Diesel Engine Exhaust Exposure

Skin is one of the main targets of the outdoor stressors. Considering that pollution levels are rising progressively, it is not surprising that several cutaneous conditions have been associated with its exposure. Among the pollutants, diesel engine exhaust (DEE) represents one of the most toxic, as it is composed of a mixture of many different noxious chemicals generated during the compression cycle, for ignition rather than an electrical spark as in gasoline engines. The toxic chemicals of most concern in DEE, besides the oxides of nitrogen, sulfur dioxide and various hydrocarbons, are metals that can induce oxidative stress and inflammation. The present study aimed to evaluate the effects of topical application, singularly or in combination, of the iron-chelator deferoxamine and a commercially available formulation, CE Ferulic, in up to 4-day DEE-exposed skin. DEE induced a significant increase in the oxidative marker 4-hydroxy-nonenal (4HNE) and matrix-metallopeptidase-9 (MMP-9), the loss of cutaneous-barrier-associated proteins (filaggrin and involucrin) and a decrease in collagen-1, while the formulations prevented the cutaneous damage in an additive manner. In conclusion, this study suggests that iron plays a key role in DEE-induced skin damage and its chelation could be an adjuvant strategy to reinforce antioxidant topical formulations.

Sunscreens and Photoaging: A Review of Current Literature

Sunscreens have been on the market for many decades as a means of protection against ultraviolet-induced erythema. Over the years, evidence has also shown their efficacy in the prevention of photoaging, dyspigmentation, DNA damage, and photocarcinogenesis. In the USA, most broad-spectrum sunscreens provide protection against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation and short-wavelength ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation. Evidence suggests that visible light and infrared light may play a role in photoaging and should be considered when choosing a sunscreen. Currently, there is a paucity of US FDA-approved filters that provide protection against long UVA (> 370 nm) and none against visible light. Additionally, various sunscreen additives such as antioxidants and photolyases have also been reported to protect against and possibly reverse signs of photoaging. This literature review evaluates the utility of sunscreen in protecting against photoaging and further explores the requirements for an ideal sunscreen.

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside: An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin

OBJECTIVE

Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations.

METHODS

Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions.

CONCLUSION

A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5.

Ferulic Acid Activity in Topical Formulations: Technological and Scientific Prospecting

INTRODUCTION

Ferulic acid is a phenolic compound widely distributed in monocotyledons, with several applications, especially in pharmaceutical and dermo-cosmetic industries. It has proven antioxidant and anti- inflammatory activities, among others, which are mainly ascribed to its molecular structure. The main factor that can lead to serious skin damages like inflammation, dryness, wrinkles, and cancer is the exposure to UV radiation that is responsible for an increased level of radical oxygen species.

OBJECTIVE

This review aims to evaluate the application of ferulic acid in topical formulations and the technologies used to enhance its bioavailability and stability, as well as to get a clearer picture of its effects by in vivo and in vitro studies.

METHODS

It covers technological publications in the WIPO, EPO, INPI, and USPTO databases and scientific publications in the PubMed, Web of Sciences, and Science Direct databases, exploring the trend and application of this compound by country and year of publication.

RESULTS

Both the scientific and technological analyses showed the importance and tendency in the association of the Ferulic Acid and other vitamins and actives. The synergic effect certainly provides a better result, performance, and stability of the compounds, which cleared the great spectrum and applicability of the Ferulic Acid in topical formulations.

CONCLUSION

The present literature survey revealed that ferulic acid exerts an important activity in several formulations for topical application and improved the stability and bioavailability when combined with new technologies and methods, showing an open path to target the treatment of skin disorders.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

'Colouring' wipes phenomenon: a peculiar skin pigmentation induced by ascorbic acid observed during lockdown

During the SARS‐CoV‐2 (COVID‐19) pandemic, an unusual outbreak of yellow–brown pigmentation on the skin of children was reported. Because of the restrictions on movement promulgated during the lockdown, most consultancies were performed using teledermatology. Data concerning personal care products and application of topical substances were collected, which revealed use of the same brand of wipes for all patients. A liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry analysis was performed to compare the components of the wipes before and after the observation of the pigmentation, in order to detect the responsible substance. This analysis revealed a level about 10‐fold higher than normal of ascorbic acid and its oxidation products (dehydroascorbic acid and L‐threonic acid) in the wipes associated with the pigmentation. These ‘colouring wipes’ represent a peculiar but harmless phenomenon that highlights the importance of careful questioning about personal care products used by patients.

Role of Vitamins in Skin Health: a Systematic Review

PURPOSE OF REVIEW

Skin is the main defense organ of the human body against external insults (ultraviolet radiations, infections by pathogenic microorganisms, and mechanical and chemical stress). The integrity and functions of the skin barrier are supported by an adequate supply of micronutrients, such as several vitamins. The purpose of this review was to analyze all vitamin-related skin problems.

RECENT FINDINGS

The World Health Organization has estimated that more than 2 billion people worldwide experience deficiencies in the intake of essential vitamins and minerals; the percentage of adults all over the world using daily vitamin supplements, for treatment or prevention of chronic disease, has increased very rapidly in recent years. In this review, 65 studies have been selected in order to examine the role of the main vitamins and their derivatives involved in maintaining the well-being of the skin and their use as prophylactic and therapeutic agents in the management of skin disorders.

Electrospun Gelatin Fiber Mats Mixed With C.carandas Extract and its Enhanced Stability and Bioactivity

Crude C. carandas fruits ethanol extract (CCE) constituents important bioactive compounds such as phenolics, flavonoids, and vitamin C. Its biological activities include anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, etc. The present work was carried out to study the optimal conditions for fabricating electrospun gelatin fiber mats (GFM) loaded with CCE (CCE-GFM) and to evaluate the release capacity and stability of these bioactive compounds loaded into GFM. The optimal conditions for electrospinning GFM were the electrospinning 30% (w/v) gelatin solution prepared in 25% (v/v) ethanol solution containing 30% (v/v) acetic acid, under the fixed electrostatic field strength of 20 kV and at a distance between noodle tip and ground of 15 cm. The feed rate of an electrospinning solution was 1.5 mL/h. The electrospun gelatin fibers were smooth and continuous under the optimized electrospinning conditions, with an average diameter of 235.69 ± 10.45 nm. Additionally, at the loading of 15% (w/w) CCE in GFM, CCE-GFM exhibited the highest DPPH radical scavenging activity with 88.22 ± 2.62% and the highest tyrosinase inhibitory activity with 38.17 ± 1.86%. Compared with free CCE, CCE-GFM was more thermally stable upon the heating and cooling cycle testing. CCE-GFM had the percent reductions in total contents of phenolics, flavonoids and vitamin C togethering with the percent reductions of DPPH scavenging and anti-tyrosinase activities slower than pure CCE had. Furthermore, the drug release efficiency from CCE-GFM of 15% (w/w) CCE loading that was tested using modified Franz diffusion cell in an acetate buffer solution of pH 5.5 was 30%. CCE-GFM has shown the potential to utilize a facial mask sheet containing CCE valuable in high antioxidant activity for cosmetic applications.

Nature-based botanical facial oil oxidative stress protection

INTRODUCTION

UV-induced oxidative skin stress leads to cutaneous photoaging. The objective of these 2 studies was to evaluate a nature-based botanical facial oil for the ability to decrease UV-induced oxidative skin stress.

METHODS

22 females were enrolled in the UVA study, and 10 females were enrolled in the UVB study. Skin chemiluminescence induced by UVA exposure was measured at baseline and after 2 weeks of daily topical application of the nature-based facial oil was evaluated in study 1. In study 2, UVB-induced erythema was measured after 8 weeks of twice-daily topical application of the nature-based facial oil to a photoprotected site followed by skin biopsy to evaluate sunburn cell formation. In both studies, the treatment response was compared to the response on untreated skin.

RESULTS

The nature-based facial oil significantly reduced skin chemiluminescence following UVA exposure, demonstrating antioxidant activity. The nature-based facial oil also significantly reduced erythema formation following UVB exposure and resulted in reduced sunburn cell formation in 66.67% of subjects.

CONCLUSION

Topical nature-based facial oil can reduce UV-induced oxidative cutaneous damage.

A serum containing vitamins C & E and a matrix-repair tripeptide reduces facial signs of aging as evidenced by Primos® analysis and frequently repeated auto-perception

Background

Allegations on the benefits of incorporating vitamin C, vitamin E, and combinations thereof in topical skincare formulations are mostly based on in vitro and ex vivo experiments and/or limited protocols of specific stress conditions (pollution, UV exposure, laser irradiation,…).

Objective

To evaluate the instrumentally measurable effects and quantitative consumer perceptions of a protective and reparative serum on a panel of volunteers under normal nonstressed conditions of use, employing FOITS technology and innovative self‐assessment methods.

Method

In an open‐label study women of ≥40 years with visible signs of photoaging applied a serum comprising l‐ascorbic acid USP (15% w/v), tocopheryl acetate USP, and 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38 to the face once daily for 56 days. Skin roughness and isotropy changes were evaluated on days 0, 28, and 56, visual instrumental evaluation of skin‐tone parameters was assessed on days 0 and 56. Subjects completed self‐assessment questionnaires every third day of the trial period for radiance, homogeneity, and wrinkle appearance.

Results

Skin‐roughness parameters decreased significantly by 8%‐9% (P < .05) and subjects experienced a significant increase in skin isotropy (P < .05). Photographic analysis revealed significant improvements in skin tone, with a 9% decrease in redness and 8% increase in homogeneity (P < .0001 for both), in excellent agreement with subjects' perception of significant improvements of radiance, complexion, and wrinkles.

Conclusion

The study confirms statistically significant correlation between objectively measured and quantitative subjectively perceived benefits of the bespoke serum containing antioxidants and a matrix‐restoring peptide.

[Topical treatment of pigmentation disorders with cosmetic and pharmaceutical agents]

BACKGROUND

Esthetically unattractive hyperpigmentation can occur post-inflammatory or as a result of genetic or hormonal influences, UV exposure or medication. Important parameters for the quality of topical treatments are evidence-based in vivo and in vitro efficacy as well as scientifically verified wanted and unwanted effects.

OBJECTIVES

This paper will present cosmetic and pharmaceutical topical ingredients against hyperpigmentation that have been proven in scientific studies.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A search of PubMed database was performed in October 2020 using the various ingredient names, "melasma" and "hyperpigmentation." Two reviewers independently screened titles, leading to the selection of 30 papers.

RESULTS

Hydroquinone, a tyrosinase inhibitor, has been used for over 40 years to treat hyperpigmentation. It is the most commonly studied agent for lightening pigment. Despite the limited evidence-based research on novel treatment approaches, several ingredients did show efficacy as depigmenting agents, including tyrosinase inhibitors, substances that increase cell turnover, and plant derivatives.

CONCLUSIONS

Hydroquinone is still the gold standard for the treatment of hyperpigmentation, along with the triple therapy of hydrochinon, tretinoin, and steroids in different modifications. In summary, hyperpigmentation is best treated using a combination therapy of different approaches that includes consequent UV protection.

Beetroot, a Remarkable Vegetable: Its Nitrate and Phytochemical Contents Can be Adjusted in Novel Formulations to Benefit Health and Support Cardiovascular Disease Therapies

The cardioprotective effects of dietary nitrate from beetroot in healthy and hypertensive individuals are undeniable and irrefutable. Nitrate and nitrate-derived nitrite are precursors for nitric oxide synthesis exhibiting an effect on cardiomyocytes and myocardial ischemia/reperfusion, improving endothelial function, reducing arterial stiffness and stimulating smooth muscle relaxation, decreasing systolic and diastolic blood pressures. Beetroot phytochemicals like betanin, saponins, polyphenols, and organic acids can resist simulated gastrointestinal digestion, raising the hypothesis that the cardioprotective effects of beetroots result from the combination of nitrate/nitrite and bioactive compounds that limit the generation of reactive oxygen species and modulate gene expression. Nitrate and phytochemical concentrations can be adjusted in beet formulations to fulfill requirements for acute or long-term supplementations, enhancing patient adherence to beet intervention. Based on in vitro, in vivo, and clinical trials, beet nitrate and its bioactive phytochemicals are promising as a novel supportive therapy to ameliorate cardiovascular diseases.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Antioxidant Packaging Films Based on Ethylene Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer (EVOH) and Caffeic Acid

The main objective of this research activity was to design and realize active films with tunable food functional properties. In detail, caffeic acid (CA), a polyphenol with high antioxidant effect, was used as active ingredient in poly (vinyl alcohol-co-ethylene) (EVOH) films at 5 wt.% and 15 wt.% and successfully realized by means of the solvent casting process. Optical, morphological, thermal and mechanical studies were considered to define the effect of the presence of the CA component on the structural properties of the matrix. In addition, moisture content and antioxidant activity were evaluated, to have clear information on the CA effect in terms of functional characteristics of realized food packaging systems. Results from tensile tests showed increased values for strength and deformation at break in EVOH_CA based films. Results from colorimetric and transparency analysis underlined that the presence of caffeic acid in EVOH copolymer induces some alterations, whereas the addition of the active ingredient determined a positive radical scavenging activity of the formulations, confirming the possibility of practically using these polymeric systems in the food packaging sector.

Emerging techniques assisting nixtamalization products and by-products processing: an overview

The production of worldwide nixtamalized products has increased in Latin American countries over the last years. For a better maize handling and exploitation of its nutritional elements, maize is subjected to a nixtamalization pretreatment protocol, which produces meaningful chemical, nutritional and quality changes in maize and its derived products, but large amounts of its primary by-product, well-known as 'nejayote', are also produced. Importantly, nejayote is usually discarded into the urbanized sewage with minimal treatment. Today, according to the recent research reports, new emerging techniques and protocols have been implemented to improve the nixtamalization products and by-products processing. New valorization approaches and biotechnological developments (including biotransformations) toward the reuse of nejayote have been developed according to its considerable content of biomolecules. Therefore, the goal of this paper is to provide a comprehensive review of the main development works at assisting nixtamalization products and by-products processing. Herein, particular attention is paid to experimental insights dealing with the valorization of nejayote.

Stabilization of ferulic acid in topical gel formulation via nanoencapsulation and pH optimization

Ferulic acid is a potent anti-oxidant with scientifically proven skin care efficacies. However, instability of this active in the skin care products restricted its wide application in beauty and skin care industries. This study aimed to stabilize ferulic acid in topical hydrogel formulation via nanoencapsulation technique. Ferulic acid loaded nanocapsules were prepared via high pressure homogenization method and physicochemically characterized. Mean particle size of ferulic acid loaded nanocapsules was < 300 nm. TEM and SEM images exhibited spherical particles with smooth surface. DSC and XRD results indicated that ferulic acid was completely dissolved in the lipid matrix of the nanocapsules and remained in amorphous form. Two types of hydrogel formulations containing ferulic acid loaded nanocapsules were prepared: Gel A with pH higher and Gel B with pH lower than pKa of ferulic acid. Cross-polarized microscopic image of the gel formulations did not show presence of any un-encapsulated and un-dissolved crystal. Gel B showed slower and controlled release of ferulic acid than Gel A. Ferulic acid permeation through skin mimic from the gel formulation demonstrated controlled permeation. Color stability of the gel and chemical stability of ferulic acid were very good in Gel B, while poor in Gel A (although significantly better than the gel with un-encapsulated ferulic acid). The result clearly indicates that together with nanoencapsulation, low pH (less than pKa of ferulic acid) of the hydrogel was crucial for both product appearance and chemical stability of ferulic acid. In fact, it has been proved that skin care product with low pH is good for skin as it can maintain skin homeostasis and microbiome. Furthermore, the permeation result suggests that ferulic acid may penetrate into deep skin layers and at the same time avoid systemic circulation. Overall, this low pH hydrogel formulation containing nanoencapsulated ferulic acid demonstrates great promise for commercialization.

Additive effect of combined pollutants to UV induced skin OxInflammation damage. Evaluating the protective topical application of a cosmeceutical mixture formulation

Since the skin is one of the targets of the harmful effects of environmental insults, several studies have investigated the effects of outdoor stressors on cutaneous tissue. Ozone (O3), particulate matter (PM), and ultraviolet radiation (UV) have all been shown to induce skin damage through disruption of tissue redox homeostasis, resulting in the so called "OxInflammation" condition. However, few studies have explored whether these stressors can act synergistically in cutaneous tissues. In the present work, we evaluated whether O3, PM, and UV, which are the most common environmental skin insults, act synergistically in inducing skin damage, and whether this effect could be prevented through topical application of a cosmeceutical formulation mixture (CF Mix) containing 15% vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid), 1% vitamin E (α-tocopherol), and 0.5% ferulic acid. Human skin explants obtained from three different subjects were sequentially exposed to 200 mJ UV light, 0.25 ppm O3 for 2 h, and 30 min of diesel engine exhaust (DEE), alone or in combination for 4 days (time point D1 and D4). We observed a clear additive effect of O3 and DEE in combination with UV in increasing levels of several oxidative (4HNE, HO-1) and inflammatory (COX2, NF-κB) markers and loss of barrier-associated proteins, such as filaggrin and involucrin. Furthermore, daily topical pre-treatment with the CF Mix prevented upregulation of the inflammatory and oxidative markers and the loss of both involucrin and filaggrin. In conclusion, this study is the first to investigate the combined effects of three of the most harmful outdoor stressors on human skin and suggests that daily topical application may prevent pollution-induced skin damage.

Topical application of a commercially available formulation of vitamin C stabilized by vitamin E and ferulic acid reduces tissue viability and protein synthesis in ex vivo human normal skin

BACKGROUND

Aqueous formulations of vitamin C stabilized by vitamin E and ferulic acid at low pH effectively protect skin against reactive oxygen species-induced damage. However, the effects of these formulations on human skin have not clearly been described. The aim of this study was to investigate whether topical application of two commercially available formulations of vitamin C alter human skin using an ex vivo model.

METHODS

Human skin explants were topically treated on alternate days with commercially available formulation 1 (15% vitamin C) at 100% (without dilution), 50%, or 10% diluted in saline or formulation 2 (20% vitamin C) at 100% (without dilution), 50%, or 10% diluted in saline. Only saline was applied to control skin explants.

RESULTS

Topical formulation 1 at 100%, 50%, or 10%, but not formulation 2 at 100%, 50%, or 10%, reduced the viability of ex vivo human skin compared to the control after 7, 10, and 13 days. In addition, compared to the control, ex vivo human skin treated with formulation 1 at 50%, but not formulation 2 at 50%, also decreased mRNA levels of actin and ribosomal protein L10 and gene expression of extracellular matrix components after 10 days. Furthermore, after 10 days, topical application of formulation 1 at 50%, but not formulation 2 at 50%, decreased the protein expression of proliferating cellular nuclear antigen, lysyl oxidase, β-actin, and glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate dehydrogenase compared to the control.

CONCLUSIONS

Topical formulation 1, but not formulation 2, may reduce the viability of and protein synthesis in ex vivo human skin. Those effects might be due to action of vehicle of formulation 1 on ex vivo human skin.

Phenylpropanoids and its derivatives: biological activities and its role in food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries

Phenylpropanoids and their derivatives are plant secondary metabolites widely present in fruits, vegetables, cereal grains, beverages, spices and herbs. They are known to have multifaceted effects which include antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antidiabetic, anticancer activities and as well as exhibits renoprotective, neuroprotective, cardioprotective and hepatoprotective effects. Owing to their antioxidant, antimicrobial and photoprotective properties, these compounds have wide application in the food (preservation, packaging films and edible coating), pharmaceutical, cosmetic and other industries such as textile (colorant), biofuel (antioxidant additive) and sensors (sensing biologically relevant molecules). Phenylpropanoids are present in commercially available dietary supplements and skin care products. In this review, we have presented the current knowledge on the biosynthesis, occurrence, biological activities of phenylpropanoids and their derivatives, along with the mechanism of action and their potential applications in various industries.

In vitro methods to determine the antioxidant activity of caffeic acid

Caffeic acid (CA) is a plant metabolite acting as a carcinogenic inhibitor, and exhibits a high antioxidant effect and some antimicrobial activity. Besides, this compound can be useful in the prevention of heart diseases and atherosclerosis, among others. The present study aims to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of CA in order to increase the frequency of its use and reliability in the prevention of damage caused by free radicals and other reactive species. The tests performed were as follows: Radical anion superoxide capture; crocin bleaching assay; capturing ability of hypochlorous acid; H₂O₂ capture; capturing capacity of the ABTS^•+/DPPH^•; and SOD-like activity. The values of the CA antioxidant activity were very close to the values of standards in all tests. Besides, CA presented an antioxidant activity greater than that of ascorbic acid and trolox, and its advantages include higher stability than ascorbic acid and extraction from natural sources, as opposed to trolox.

Neuroendocrine Aspects of Skin Aging

Skin aging is accompanied by a gradual loss of function, physiological integrity and the ability to cope with internal and external stressors. This is secondary to a combination of complex biological processes influenced by constitutive and environmental factors or by local and systemic pathologies. Skin aging and its phenotypic presentation are dependent on constitutive (genetic) and systemic factors. It can be accelerated by environmental stressors, such as ultraviolet radiation, pollutants and microbial insults. The skin’s functions and its abilities to cope with external stressors are regulated by the cutaneous neuroendocrine systems encompassing the regulated and coordinated production of neuropeptides, neurohormones, neurotransmitters and hormones, including steroids and secosteroids. These will induce/stimulate downstream signaling through activation of corresponding receptors. These pathways and corresponding coordinated responses to the stressors decay with age or undergo pathological malfunctions. This affects the overall skin phenotype and epidermal, dermal, hypodermal and adnexal functions. We propose that skin aging can be attenuated or its phenotypic presentation reversed by the topical use of selected factors with local neurohormonal activities targeting specific receptors or enzymes. Some of our favorite factors include melatonin and its metabolites, noncalcemic secosteroids and lumisterol derivatives, because of their low toxicity and their desirable local phenotypic effects.

Skin protective effects of an antipollution, antioxidant serum containing Deschampsia antartica extract, ferulic acid and vitamin C: a controlled single-blind, prospective trial in women living in urbanized, high air pollution area

Introduction: Air pollution causes skin damage and favors skin aging processes such as dark spots and wrinkles, through oxidative stress. Pollutant substances accelerate skin aging through a specific activation of intracellular receptors called AhR (aryl-hydrocarbon receptors). Deschampsia antartica aqueous extract (DAE) has shown to counteract the pollutant-induced AhR activation. Ferulic acid (FA) and vitamin C (VC) are potent antioxidant substances. A serum containing DAE/FA/VC has been recently developed. So far, no clinical data are available regarding the protective actions of this serum against the detrimental effects of air pollution on the skin. Objective: We conducted a prospective, single-blind, 28-day study to assess efficacy and protective effects against air pollution skin damage of a new serum containing Deschampsia antartica extract. Materials and methods: Twenty, photo type I-III, women (mean age 42 years) with at least three dark spots on the face, living in a homogenous urbanized, high pollution area (Rome) were evaluated. The objectives of the study were to evaluate the effects of treatment on skin barrier function, assessed by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement (Tewameter), the effect on dark spots, evaluated by means of colorimetry (Colorimeter CL 400), and the effect on squalene peroxide (SQOOH)/squalene (SQ) skin ratio assessed with face swabs. Results: The trial was conducted between November 20 and December 19, 2018. In comparison with baseline, the product induced a significant improvement of skin hydration (-19% of TEWL), a significant improvement of dark spots (+7%) and a significant improvement of SQOOH/SQ ratio (-16%). The product was evaluated very well by >90% of the treated subjects regarding cosmetic acceptability. Discussion: A serum containing DAE/FA/VC has shown to improve skin barrier function, to reduce dark spots and to counteract the skin oxidative stress in women living in high pollution urban area.

Ferulic acid altered IL-17A/IL-17RA interaction and protected against imiquimod-induced psoriasis-like skin injury in mice

Ferulic acid (FA), a phenolic phytochemical, is commonly found in grains, vegetables, and fruits. Interleukin-17A (IL-17A) and IL-17 receptor A (IL-17RA) interaction is one of important therapeutic targets for psoriasis. Here we analyzed the FA effects on IL-17A/IL-17RA interaction and psoriasis-like skin injury induced by imiquimod (IMQ). IL-17A-blocking assay and docking analysis showed that FA interacted with Trp-67, Gln-94, and Glu-95 residues of IL-17A via hydrogen bonds and consequently abolished the binding of IL-17RA to IL-17A. Mice were topically given with IMQ and orally given with various amounts of FA for 14 consecutive days. FA attenuated IMQ-induced psoriasis-like skin lesions in a dose-dependent manner, and the epidermal thickness of mice treated with 100 mg/kg FA was reduced by 53.48 ± 4.44% in comparison with sham. Global analysis of differentially expressed genes showed that IMQ and FA significantly affected immune response, metabolism, and mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling pathways. Immunohistochemical staining showed that FA inhibited the infiltration and the cytokine secretion of Th17 cell, dendritic cell, and granulocyte subsets in psoriatic skin tissues. In conclusion, we newly identified that oral administration of FA protected against IMQ-induced psoriatic skin injury in mice. Moreover, its protection was associated with the interference of IL-17A/IL-17RA interaction.

Aesthetic aspects of skin aging, prevention, and local treatment

Skin aging is a complex biologic process influenced by a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Aging skin shows wrinkles, uneven tone, loss of elasticity, and thinning. Skin health is considered one of the principal factors representing overall well-being and the perception of health in humans; therefore, anti-aging strategies to combat aging signs and dysfunction have been developed over the last decades. Understanding the mechanism behind skin aging is required for elucidation of the mechanism of action and, hence, the potential benefits of the claimed anti-aging products. In this review, preventive measurements, cosmetologic strategies, and photoprotection (systemic antioxidants, ultraviolet and filters), as well as the mechanisms of action and the effectiveness of topical pharmaceutical agents, such as antioxidants (vitamins, polyphenols, and flavonoids) and cell regulators (retinols, peptides, hormones, and botanicals), are presented.

Design and Characterization of a New Quercus Suber-Based Pickering Emulsion for Topical Application

Quercus Suber Bark from Quercus suber L. is a natural, renewable and biodegradable biomaterial with multifunctional proprieties. In this study, we used it as solid particles to stabilize a Pickering emulsion. The main goal was to produce an optimized topical formulation using biocompatible organic particles as stabilizers of the emulsion instead of the common surfactants, whilst benefiting from Quercus suber L. proprieties. In this work, a Quality by Design (QbD) approach was successfully applied to the production of this emulsion. A screening design was conducted, identifying the critical variables of the formula and process, affecting the critical quality attributes of the emulsion (droplet size distribution). The optimization of the production was made through the establishment of the design space. The stability was also investigated during 30 days, demonstrating that Quercus Suber Bark-stabilized emulsions are stable since the droplet size distribution lowers. In vitro studies were performed to assess antioxidant and antiaging efficacy, which revealed that the formulation had indeed antioxidant proprieties. A physicochemical characterization demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning fluid, ideal for topical administration. The in vivo compatibility study confirmed that the final formulation is not skin irritant, being safe for human use. A sensorial analysis was also performed, using a simple sensory questionnaire, revealing very positive results. Thus, the use of Quercus Suber Bark particles as a multifunctional solid ingredient contributed to achieve a stable, effective and innovative Pickering emulsion with a meaningful synergistic protection against oxidative stress.

Chemoprevention agents for melanoma: A path forward into phase 3 clinical trials

Recent progress in the treatment of advanced melanoma has led to unprecedented improvements in overall survival and, as these new melanoma treatments have been developed and deployed in the clinic, much has been learned about the natural history of the disease. Now is the time to apply that knowledge toward the design and clinical evaluation of new chemoprevention agents. Melanoma chemoprevention has the potential to reduce dramatically both the morbidity and the high costs associated with treating patients who have metastatic disease. In this work, scientific and clinical melanoma experts from the national Melanoma Prevention Working Group, composed of National Cancer Trials Network investigators, discuss research aimed at discovering and developing (or repurposing) drugs and natural products for the prevention of melanoma and propose an updated pipeline for translating the most promising agents into the clinic. The mechanism of action, preclinical data, epidemiological evidence, and results from available clinical trials are discussed for each class of compounds. Selected keratinocyte carcinoma chemoprevention studies also are considered, and a rationale for their inclusion is presented. These data are summarized in a table that lists the type and level of evidence available for each class of agents. Also included in the discussion is an assessment of additional research necessary and the likelihood that a given compound may be a suitable candidate for a phase 3 clinical trial within the next 5 years.

The role of symmetric functionalisation on photoisomerisation of a UV commercial chemical filter

Photoisomerisation has been shown to be an efficient excited-state relaxation mechanism for a variety of nature-based and artificial-based molecular systems.