Identification of HSP70-inducing activity in Arnica montana extract and purification and characterization of HSP70-inducers

Changing human hair fibre colour and shape from the follicle

INTRODUCTION

Natural hair curvature and colour are genetically determined human traits, that we intentionally change by applying thermal and chemical treatments to the fibre. Presently, those cosmetic methodologies act externally and their recurrent use is quite detrimental to hair fibre quality and even to our health.

OBJECTIVES

This work represents a disruptive concept to modify natural hair colour and curvature. We aim to model the fibre phenotype as it is actively produced in the follicle through the topical delivery of specific bioactive molecules to the scalp.

METHODS

Transcriptome differences between curly and straight hairs were identified by microarray. In scalp samples, the most variable transcripts were mapped by in situ hybridization. Then, by using appropriate cellular models, we screened a chemical library of 1200 generic drugs, searching for molecules that could lead to changes in either fibre colour or curvature. A pilot-scale, single-centre, investigator-initiated, prospective, blind, bilateral (split-scalp) placebo-controlled clinical study with the intervention of cosmetics was conducted to obtain a proof of concept (RNEC n.92938).

RESULTS

We found 85 genes transcribed significantly different between curly and straight hair, not previously associated with this human trait. Next, we mapped some of the most variable genes to the inner root sheath of follicles, reinforcing the role of this cell layer in fibre shape moulding. From the drug library screening, we selected 3 and 4 hits as modulators of melanin synthesis and gene transcription, respectively, to be further tested in 33 volunteers. The intentional specific hair change occurred: 8 of 14 volunteers exhibited colour changes, and 16 of 19 volunteers presented curvature modifications, by the end of the study.

CONCLUSION

The promising results obtained are the first step towards future cosmetics, complementary or alternative to current methodologies, taking hair styling to a new level: changing hair from the inside out.

Evaluating Potentials of Species Rich Taxonomic Groups in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Clustering and Dispersion of Skin Efficacy of Asteraceae and Ranunculales Plants on the Species Phylogenetic Tree

BACKGROUND

The medicinal properties of plants can be predicted by virtue of phylogenetic methods, which nevertheless have not been utilized to explore the regularity of skin-related bioactivities of ethnomedicinal plants. We aim to investigate the distribution of skin efficacy of Asteraceae and Ranunculales plants on the species-level Tree of Life.

METHODS

The clinical efficacy data of 551 ethnomedicinal species belonging to Ranunculales, as well as 579 ethnomedicinal species of Asteraceae, were systematically collected and collated; these therapeutic data fell into 15 categories, including skin disease/cosmeceutical. The large phylogenetic tree of all China angiosperm species was used to detect the phylogenetic signals of ethnomedicinal plants by calculating the D statistic, phylogenetic diversity (PD), net relatedness index (NRI), and nearest taxon index (NTI). Of all Chinese ethnomedicinal plants of Ranunculales and Asteraceae, 339 (61.5% of all ethnomedicinal species) and 382 (66.0% of all) are used for skin problems. In Ranunculales, a clustered structure was suggested by the NRI value for skin uses. In Asteraceae, the skin utility was not clustered; Artemisia, Aster, Cremanthodium, Ligularia, and Saussurea are the most used Asteraceae genera for skin issues.

RESULTS

The clustering structure was identified in Artemisia, and the skin efficacy in other genera was of overdispersion (NRI < 0). NTI values and D statistics largely agree with NRI. When compared with PD values of different therapeutic categories, the PD value of the skin category was relatively high in Cremanthodium, Ranunculales, Asteraceae, and Artemisia, suggesting the enormous efficacy space in the new taxa of these taxonomic groups.

CONCLUSION

By resolving the distribution of therapeutic effects of Ranunculales/Asteraceae taxa, the importance of phylogenetic methods in mining botanical resources with skin utilities is validated.

Arnica Montana L. Supercritical Extraction Optimization for Antibiotic and Anticancer Activity

Arnica montana L. flower heads are known for their antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anticancer activity. The aim of this work was to optimize the process of supercritical CO₂ extraction, to achieve high extraction yield and high content of biologically active components, and to confirm the antimicrobial and anticancer activity of the extract. The influence of pressure and temperature on the total phenolic content, antioxidant activity, and proanthocyanidin content was evaluated. The pressure and temperature were found to be interdependent. A temperature of 60°C and a pressure of 30 MPa resulted in a high extraction yield, antioxidant activity and phenolic content. The content of proanthocyanidins was highest at a pressure between 18 and 24 MPa. The extracts inhibited three different microorganisms successfully; Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli and Candida albicans, at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 5.16 mg/ml and showed anticancer activity decrease up to 85% at a concentration of 0.5 mg/ml.

Attenuation Effect of Radiofrequency Irradiation on UV-B-Induced Skin Pigmentation by Decreasing Melanin Synthesis and through Upregulation of Heat Shock Protein 70

Excess melanin deposition in the skin causes cosmetic problems. HSP70 upregulation decreases microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) expression, which eventually decreases tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation upregulates p53, which increases the melanocortin receptor (MC1R) and MITF. Furthermore, HSP70 decreases p53 and radiofrequency irradiation (RF) increases HSP70. We evaluated whether RF increased HSP70 and decreased p53, consequently decreasing the MITF/tyrosinase pathway and melanogenesis in UV-B radiated animal skin. Various RF combinations with 50, 100, and 150 ms and 5, 10, and 15 W were performed on the UV-B radiated mouse skin every 2 d for 28 d. When RF was performed with 100 ms/10 W, melanin deposition, evaluated by Fontana–Masson staining, decreased without skin crust formation in the UV-B radiated skin. Thus, we evaluated the effect of RF on decreasing melanogenesis in the HEMn and UV-B radiated skin at a setting of 100 ms/10 W. HSP70 expression was decreased in the UV-B radiated skin but was increased by RF. The expression of p53, MC1R, and MITF increased in the UV-B radiated skin but was decreased by RF. The expression of p53, MC1R, and MITF increased in the α-MSH treated HEMn but was decreased by RF. The decreasing effects of RF on p53, MC1R, CREB and MITF were higher than those of HSP70-overexpressed HEMn. The decreasing effect of RF on p53, MC1R, CREB, and MITF disappeared in the HSP70-silenced HEMn. MC1R, CREB, and MITF were not significantly decreased by the p53 inhibitor in α-MSH treated HEMn. RF induced a greater decrease in MC1R, CREB, and MITF than the p53 inhibitor. Therefore, RF may have decreased melanin synthesis by increasing HSP70 and decreasing p53, thus decreasing MC1R/CREB/MITF and tyrosinase activity.

Applications of Sesquiterpene Lactones: A Review of Some Potential Success Cases

Sesquiterpene lactones, a vast range of terpenoids isolated from Asteraceae species, exhibit a broad spectrum of biological effects and several of them are already commercially available, such as artemisinin. Here the most recent and impactful results of in vivo, preclinical and clinical studies involving a selection of ten sesquiterpene lactones (alantolactone, arglabin, costunolide, cynaropicrin, helenalin, inuviscolide, lactucin, parthenolide, thapsigargin and tomentosin) are presented and discussed, along with some of their derivatives. In the authors’ opinion, these compounds have been neglected compared to others, although they could be of great use in developing important new pharmaceutical products. The selected sesquiterpenes show promising anticancer and anti-inflammatory effects, acting on various targets. Moreover, they exhibit antifungal, anxiolytic, analgesic, and antitrypanosomal activities. Several studies discussed here clearly show the potential that some of them have in combination therapy, as sensitizing agents to facilitate and enhance the action of drugs in clinical use. The derivatives show greater pharmacological value since they have better pharmacokinetics, stability, potency, and/or selectivity. All these natural terpenoids and their derivatives exhibit properties that invite further research by the scientific community.

Advances in the Tyrosinase Inhibitors from Plant Source

Tyrosinase is a multifunctional copper-containing oxidase which catalyses the oxidation of tyrosine to produce melanin. The alteration in melanin biosynthesis occurs in many diseases. The pigment has a protecting role against skin photo-carcinogenesis, but anomalous melanin pigmentation is an aesthetic problem in human beings. Moreover, the formation of neuromelanin in human brain could contribute to the neurodegeneration associated with Parkinson's disease. Finally, tyrosinase is also responsible for undesired browning in fruits and vegetables. These topics encouraged the search for new inhibitors of this enzyme for pharmaceutical, cosmetic and foods industries. This review is to report recent trends in the discovery of tyrosinase inhibitors from plant sources, to provide a rationale for the continued study of natural tyrosinase inhibitors, and to recognise the potential therapeutic rewards associated with the identification of these agents.

Modulation of Diacylglycerol-Induced Melanogenesis in Human Melanoma and Primary Melanocytes: Role of Stress Chaperone Mortalin

Skin color/pigmentation is regulated through melanogenesis process in specialized melanin-producing cells, melanocytes, involving multiple signaling pathways. It is highly influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors such as oxidative, ultraviolet radiations and other environmental stress conditions. Besides determining the color, it governs response and tolerance of skin to a variety of environmental stresses and pathological conditions including photodamage, hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer. Depigmenting reagents have been deemed useful not only for cosmetics but also for pigmentation-related pathologies. In the present study, we attempted modulation of 1-oleoyl-2-acetyl-glycerol- (OAG-) induced melanogenesis in human melanoma and primary melanocytes. In both cell types, OAG-induced melanogenesis was associated with increase in enhanced expression of melanin, tyrosinase, as well as stress chaperones (mortalin and HSP60) and Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). Treatment with TXC (trans-4-(Aminomethyl) cyclohexanecarboxylic acid hexadecyl ester hydrochloride) and 5/40 natural compounds resulted in their reduction. The data proposed an important role of mortalin and oxidative stress in skin pigmentation and the use of TXC and natural extracts for modulation of pigmentation pathways in normal and pathological conditions.

Transcriptomic analysis of human dermal fibroblast cells reveals potential mechanisms underlying the protective effects of visible red light against damage from ultraviolet B light

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is a major cause of skin photodamage, including the damage associated with photodermatoses, aging, and cancer. Although many studies have shown that red light has photoprotective effects on skin, the mechanisms underlying these effects are still poorly understood.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to identify the photoprotective effects of visible red light against UVB-induced skin damage in normal human dermal fibroblast cells using a transcriptomic approach.

METHODS

Next-generation sequencing-based transcriptomic analyses were used to profile transcriptomic alterations and identify genes that are differentially expressed by visible red light and by UVB exposure. To understand the biological networks among identified genes, a literature-based biological pathway analysis was performed. Quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction assays were used for mRNA-level validation of selected key genes.

RESULTS

We observed that visible red light contributes to skin cell protection against UVB by modulating gene expression that enhances the adaptive response to redox and inflammatory balancing and by upregulating genes involved in DNA excision repair processes. We also identified that several key genes in the red light-induced biological network were differentially regulated.

CONCLUSIONS

Visible red light enhanced the UVB-protective effects in normal human skin cells via the transcriptomic modulation of genes involved in cell-protective processes. Our findings from this next-generation sequencing analysis may lead to a better understanding of the cytoprotective effects of visible red light and provide direction for further molecular or mechanistic studies.

Arnica montana L. – a plant of healing: review

Objectives

Arnica montana is a widely used therapeutic plant used traditionally to treat various ailments. The objective of this study was to evaluate the botany, phytochemistry and ethnopharmacology along with special emphasis given on pharmacological activity of plant A. montana.

Key findings

The plant extracts have been reported to possess antibacterial, antitumor, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antifungal and immunomodulatory activity. A wide range of chemical compounds including sesquiterpene lactones and their short-chain carbonic acid esters, flavonoids, carotenoids, essential oils, diterpenes, arnidiol, pyrrolizidine alkaloids, coumarins, phenolic acids, lignans and oligosaccharides, etc., are found in different parts of the plant.

Summary

It has been scrutinized that extensive research has been carried out to explore the therapeutic potential of flowers of the plant. Therefore, investigations should be carried out to explore the therapeutic potential of other parts of the plant for better therapeutic utilization.

Wnt/β-catenin signaling inhibitor ICG-001 enhances pigmentation of cultured melanoma cells

BACKGROUND

Wnt/β-catenin signaling is important in development and differentiation of melanocytes.

OBJECTIVE

The object of this study was to evaluate the effects of several Wnt/β-catenin signaling inhibitors on pigmentation using melanoma cells.

METHODS

Melanoma cells were treated with Wnt/β-catenin signaling inhibitors, and then melanin content and tyrosinase activity were checked.

RESULTS

Although some inhibitors showed slight inhibition of pigmentation, we failed to observe potential inhibitory effect of those chemicals on pigmentation of HM3KO melanoma cells. Rather, one of powerful Wnt/β-catenin signaling inhibitors, ICG-001, increased the pigmentation of HM3KO melanoma cells. Pigmentation-enhancing effect of ICG-001 was reproducible in other melanoma cell line MNT-1. Consistent with these results. ICG-001 increased the expression of pigmentation-related genes, such as MITF, tyrosinase and TRP1. When ICG-001 was treated, the phosphorylation of CREB was significantly increased. In addition, ICG-001 treatment led to quick increase of intracellular cAMP level, suggesting that ICG-001 activated PKA signaling. The blockage of PKA signaling with pharmaceutical inhibitor H89 inhibited the ICG-001-induced pigmentation significantly.

CONCLUSIONS

These results suggest that PKA signaling is pivotal in pigmentation process itself, while the importance of Wnt/β-catenin signaling should be emphasized in the context of development and differentiation.

Stress chaperone mortalin regulates human melanogenesis

In order to identify the cellular factors involved in human melanogenesis, we carried out shRNA-mediated loss-of-function screening in conjunction with induction of melanogenesis by 1-oleoyl-2-acetyl-glycerol (OAG) in human melanoma cells using biochemical and visual assays. Gene targets of the shRNAs (that caused loss of OAG-induced melanogenesis) and their pathways, as determined by bioinformatics, revealed involvement of proteins that regulate cell stress response, mitochondrial functions, proliferation, and apoptosis. We demonstrate, for the first time, that the mitochondrial stress chaperone mortalin is crucial for melanogenesis. Upregulation of mortalin was closely associated with melanogenesis in in vitro cell-based assays and clinical samples of keloids with hyperpigmentation. Furthermore, its knockdown resulted in compromised melanogenesis. The data proposed mortalin as an important protein that may be targeted to manipulate pigmentation for cosmetic and related disease therapeutics.