Development of novel alternative hair dyes to hazardous para-phenylenediamine

Fabrication of innovative multifunctional dye using MXene nanosheets

The increasing demand for natural and safer alternatives to traditional hair dyes has led to the investigation of nanomaterials as potential candidates for hair coloring applications. MXene nanosheets have emerged as a promising alternative in this context due to their unique optical and electronic properties. In this study, we aimed to evaluate the potential of Ti3C2Tx (Tx = -O, -OH, -F, etc.) MXene nanosheets as a hair dye. MXene nanosheet-based dyes have been demonstrated to exhibit not only coloring capabilities but also additional properties such as antistatic properties, heat dissipation, and electromagnetic wave shielding. Additionally, surface modification of MXene using collagen reduces the surface roughness of hair and upregulates keratinocyte markers KRT5 and KRT14, demonstrating the potential for tuning its physicochemical and biological properties. This conceptual advancement highlights the potential of MXene nanosheets to go beyond simple cosmetic improvements and provide improved comfort and safety by preventing the presence of hazardous ingredients and solvents while providing versatility.

A Dual-Signal Sensing for the Visual and Luminescent Detection of p-Phenylenediamine Based on Cerium-Nitrogen-Co-Doped Carbon Dots

Herein, a visual and luminescent dual-mode (colorimetric and fluorometric) method for the detection of P-phenylenediamine (PPD) in hair dye was successfully established based on cerium-nitrogen co-doped carbon dots (Ce, N-CDs) that displayed remarkable luminescence and peroxidase activity. Ce, N-CDs catalyzed H2O2 to produce superoxide anion, which then oxidized the colorless 3,3,5,5-tetramethylbenzidine (TMB) into blue oxidized TMB (oxTMB), capable of quenching the fluorescence through fluorescence resonance energy transfer (FRET) between Ce, N-CDs and oxTMB. The reducing properties of PPD could reduce oxTMB back to TMB, leading to a decrease in the absorption intensity of oxTMB and a fluorescence recovery of Ce, N-CDs. As a result, the quantitative detection of PPD could be achieved by measuring the absorption values of oxTMB and the fluorescence signal of Ce, N-CDs. The detection limits for PPD were calculated as 0.36 µM and 0.10 µM for colorimetry and fluorimetry, respectively. Furthermore, smartphone application (ColorPicker) capable of measuring the RGB value of the color was utilized in the detection system, facilitating on-site quantitative detection. This approach effectively shortens the detection time and simplifies the operation, offering a powerful and convenient tool for real-time monitoring of PPD.

Quantification of p-Phenylenediamine in Hair Dyes and Health Risk Implications in the UAE: Describing Discordances Between Regulations and Real-Life Practices

Background

p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) has been used over the past five decades as a primary precursor in the production of oxidative hair dyes. Numerous health dangers are associated with the short- and long-term use of PPD, raising concerns about its safety. For instance, mounting data suggests that PPD is linked to dermatitis and allergy cases.

Objective

To quantify the PPD content in hair dyes by measuring the PPD concentration after mixing the ingredients of commercial hair dyes.

Methods

A total of 290 permanent hair dyes were tested. RP-HPLC-DAD analysis was performed to determine and quantify the PPD content.

Results

The estimated mean of the PPD limit was 0.89 (95% CI [0.81-0.96]). Of the 290 tested hair dyes, 7.2% (n = 21) exceeded the recommended PPD concentration after mixing. Significantly more hair dyes manufactured in India and China had a PPD content exceeding 2% after mixing compared to dyes from other regions (P = 0.001). Moreover, hair dyes manufactured in India and the UAE were more likely to have incomplete descriptions of the conditions of use and warnings on the label (P = 0.002).

Conclusion

The effectiveness of the current regulations relevant to these products should be reevaluated. Moreover, through the use of good manufacturing procedures (GMPs), research, and the reporting of adverse reactions, hair dyes should be subjected to better control and monitoring in terms of their safety and quality.

Metal Cation-Doped ns-Cucurbit[10]uril: Adsorption of Para-Phenylenediamine

The separation of phenylenediamine (PDA) isomers is crucial in the field of chemical manufacturing. Herein, we presented a strategy for the separation of PDA isomers (para-phenylenediamine, p-PDA; meta-phenylenediamine, m-PDA; ortho-phenylenediamine, o-PDA) using four supramolecular framework materials of ns-cucurbit[10]uril (ns-Q[10]), (1) ns-Q[10](Cd), (2) ns-Q[10](Mn), (3) ns-Q[10](Cu), (4) ns-Q[10](Pb). Our findings indicated that these supramolecular framework materials of ns-Q[10] showed remarkable selectivity for para-phenylenediamine (p-PDA) in p-PDA, m-PDA, and o-PDA mixtures, respectively. The variations in selectivity observed in these four single-crystal structures arose from variations in the thermodynamic stabilities and binding modes of the host-guest complexes. Importantly, the supramolecular framework based on ns-Q[10] exhibited selective accommodation of p-PDA over its isomers. This study highlighted the practical application of ns-Q[10] in effectively separating PDA isomers and demonstrated the potential utility of ns-Q[10] in isolating other organic molecules.

Cysteamine hydrochloride affects ocular development and triggers associated inflammation in zebrafish

The increasing use of cosmetics has raised widespread concerns regarding their ingredients. Cysteamine hydrochloride (CSH) is a newly identified allergenic component in cosmetics, and therefore its potential toxicity needs further elucidation. Here, we investigated the in vivo toxicity of CSH during ocular development utilizing a zebrafish model. CSH exposure was linked to smaller eyes, increased vasculature of the fundus and decreased vessel diameter in zebrafish larvae. Moreover, CSH exposure accelerated the process of vascular sprouting and enhanced the proliferation of ocular vascular endothelial cells. Diminished behavior in response to visual stimuli and ocular structural damage in zebrafish larvae after CSH treatment were confirmed by analysis of the photo-visual motor response and pathological examination, respectively. Through transcriptional assays, transgenic fluorescence photography and molecular docking analysis, we determined that CSH inhibited Notch receptor transcription, leading to an aberrant proliferation of ocular vascular endothelial cells mediated by Vegf signaling activation. This process disrupted ocular homeostasis, and induced an inflammatory response with neutrophil accumulation, in addition to the generation of high levels of reactive oxygen species, which in turn promoted the occurrence of apoptotic cells in the eye and ultimately impaired ocular structure and visual function during zebrafish development.

Dermatological adverse effects of hair dye use: A narrative review

Hair dyeing is a popular practice dating back to ancient Egyptian times. Initially, hair dye use was restricted to concealing grey and white hairs of the elderly population. However, in recent times, its use is common among the younger generation as a fashion statement. Hair dye contact dermatitis is a common dermatological condition encountered by dermatologists. It is a delayed type of hypersensitivity reaction that commonly affects the scalp and the vicinity of hair line and neck. Para-phenylenediamine (PPD), a synthetic aromatic amine is the most common allergen specifically implicated in hair dye contact dermatitis. Para-phenylenediamine was announced as the allergen of the year in 2006 by the American Contact Dermatitis Society. Contact allergy to para-phenylenediamine can occur in 0.1-2.3% of the general population. Epicutaneous patch testing is the gold standard test for the diagnosis of hair dye contact dermatitis. However, para-phenylenediamine carries a risk of cross-sensitivity and co-sensitization to other allergens. Apart from contact dermatitis, hair dye use is also associated with various other cutaneous adverse effects such as pigmentary changes, hair loss, skin malignancies and autoimmune disorders. Due to the various adverse effects associated with hair dye use, it is prudent to look for safer alternatives to allergenic hair dyes. In this article, we review the epidemiology, cutaneous and systemic adverse effects associated with hair dye use, patch testing, preventive strategies to minimize the risk of hair dye contact dermatitis, and treatment aspects.

Mechanisms of impairment in hair and scalp induced by hair dyeing and perming and potential interventions

With the rapid growth of beauty and personal care industries, many hair-relevant products, hair dyes and hair perms in particular, are increasingly prevalent in both women and men, regardless of being young or old as they frequently change hair color or shape to enhance youthfulness and beauty and to follow fashion trends. Hair dyes and perms alter hair color and/or shape by mechanically changing the physical structure and chemical substances of the hair shaft. However, treatment of hair with chemical formulations has been potentially ascribed to adverse outcomes in the hair shaft including structure damage, chemical constituent disorder, and impaired physical properties, although hair cosmetics procedures are intrinsically safe. Nevertheless, the mechanisms of impairment in the hair shaft and scalp induced by hair dyeing and perming remain elusive. Additionally, adverse reactions activated by exposure to specific chemical ingredients including skin irritation, allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), and even cancer risk have been reported clinically, but existing evidence is not consistent enough in the case of human studies. Herein, the review aims to give an overview of hair cosmetics, especially concerning the basic knowledge about various hair dyes and perms, the consequences for hair shafts and the scalp resulting from the application of hair cosmetics mentioned above, mechanisms of hazardous outcomes, and potential desirable interventions to alleviate the impairment.

Polyphenols Coordinated with Cu (II) in an Aqueous System Build Ion-Channel Coatings on Hair Surfaces

Recently, developments in the field of cosmetics have led to a renewed interest in hair dyeing. However, damage to the hair during the dyeing process has increased hesitation in attempting hair dyeing. As a result, hair dyes with minimal side effects have been in constant demand, and are being developed. In this study, natural-extract polyphenols, pyrogallol, and gallic acid are coordinated by CuCl₂ in a NaCl aqueous solution to form an oligomer, which creates an ion-channel coating on the hair surface to protect it. This work attempts to develop fast, simple, and damage-free hair-dye ingredients based on pyrogallol and gallic acid. The morphology and elements of polyphenols coated on hair are characterized. The results reveal that the hair is dyed with the polyphenol-based dye reagent successfully. Moreover, the thickness of the dyed hair continuously rises ten times after dyeing. The tensile strength of the dyed hair is also measured, showing an upward and downward trend. These results reflect the fact that pyrogallol and gallic acid are considered to be the essential and functional polyphenols, and can build ion blocks on hair, which can create new multifunctional coating materials.

Dermal exposure and hair dye: Assessing potential bladder cancer risk from permanent hair dye

Hair dye products include a range of chemicals, depending on the type and color. A common primary intermediate compound used to achieve the permanent effect of hair dye is para-phenylenediamine (PPD). 4-aminobiphenyl (4-ABP) has reportedly been found as a trace contaminant (presumably from the para-phenylenediamine [PPD] ingredient) in consumer permanent hair dye. While several regulatory agencies have designated 4-ABP as a human bladder carcinogen based on evidence in humans and experimental animals, only the Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment (OEHHA) have established a cancer risk value for 4-ABP of 0.03 μg/day based on liver tumors developed in mice. A hypothetical dermal risk assessment was performed to estimate the bladder cancer risk associated with exposure to 4-ABP from personal use of permanent hair dye potentially containing incidental 4-ABP. Previously published laboratory analyses characterizing 4-ABP concentrations in consumer hair dyes indicate the concentrations can range from below the limit of detection to 8120 ppb. Precautionary estimates of human scalp surface area, maximum skin adherence, hair dye retention factor, and percent dermal absorption were used to estimate the daily systemic exposure doses (SEDs) from dermal application of hair dye. The estimated SEDs ranged from 0.05 to 3000 pg/day. A margin of safety (MOS) was calculated as the ratio of the NSRL to the SED and ranged from 10 to 570,000. The results of this study suggest that there is no indication of increased risk of bladder cancer in humans from exposure to 4-ABP in consumer hair dye, especially as it is extremely unlikely that a consumer would use permanent hair dye on a daily basis (as this assessment models).

Superoxide anion radical induced phototoxicity of 2,4,5,6-Tetraminopyrimidine sulfate via mitochondrial-mediated apoptosis in human skin keratinocytes at ambient UVR exposure

2,4,5,6-Tetraaminopyrimidine sulfate (TAPS) is worldwide the most commonly used developer in hair dyes. As skin is the major organ, which is directly exposed to these permanent hair dyes, a comprehensive dermal safety assessment is needed. Hereto, we studied the photosensitization potential and mechanism involved in dermal phototoxicity of TAPS exposed to the dark and UVA/UVB/Sunlight by using different in-chemico and mammalian (HaCaT) cells, as test systems. Our experimental outcomes illustrate that TAPS get photodegraded (LC-MS/MS) and specifically generated superoxide anion radical (O₂^•-) under UVA and UVB via type-I photodynamic reaction. The phototoxic potential of TAPS is measured through MTT, NRU, and LDH assays that depicted a significant reduction in cell viability at the concentration of 25 μg/ml and higher. Different cellular stainings (PI uptake, AO/EB, JC-1, NR uptake) suggested the role of mitochondrial-mediated apoptosis. Further, the transcriptomics study revealed upregulation of Apaf-1, Bax, Caspase 3, Caspase 9, Cytochrome c and downregulation of Bcl-2 and Catalase by TAPS treated cells that strengthen our findings. Thus, the above findings suggest that chronic application of TAPS may be hazardous for human skin and promote various skin diseases.

Study of P-Phenylenediamine (PPD) Concentrations after Hair Dye Mixing: A Call for Safety Reassessment

Para-phenylenediamine (PPD) is a chemical that is widely used in hair dyes. Multiple safety and regulatory agencies have categorized PPD as a potent sensitizer. In addition, PPD has carcinogenicity and genotoxicity attributes and, consequently, it is regulated at a maximal concentration of 2.0%. The aim of this study was to test whether the limit for PPD is surplus, and hence whether the consumer may be exposed to unnecessarily PPD levels. Experimentally, the analysis of PPD was performed using HPLC, where method validation and an inter-laboratory comparison test (ILC) were conducted to evaluate method performance. Thirty-three commercial products were analyzed, and five products were chosen to study the unconsumed PPD. Successfully, the implemented method confirmed its suitability and validity for the determination of PPD. For ILC results, PPD levels were 0.97 ± 0.04% and 0.92 ± 0.02%, quantified by our laboratory and an accredited laboratory, respectively. For all products, the initial concentration (T0) of PPD was lower than the regulatory limit. After 45 min, the content of PPD significantly reduced compared to T0. One product showed unconsumed PPD to be as high as 96% following the recommended dyeing time. In conclusion, the existence of high levels of unreacted PPD increases the likelihood of allergic events and elevates the risk of PPD-related chemicals. Collaborative efforts between industries, regulatory bodies, and health-related decision makers are deemed necessary to establish safe concentrations for PPD.

Investigations on detoxification mechanisms of novel para-phenylenediamine analogues through N-acetyltransferase 1 (NAT-1)

Para-phenylenediamine (PPD) is one of the most used chemicals in oxidative hair dyes. However, its use has been associated with adverse effects on health, including contact dermatitis and other systemic toxicities. Novel PPD derivatives have been proposed as a safer replacement for PPD. This can be achieved if these molecules minimally permeate the skin and/or are easily metabolised by enzymes in the skin (e.g., N-acetyltransferase-1 (NAT-1)) into innocuous compounds before gaining systemic entry. This study investigated the detoxification pathway mediated by NAT-1 enzymes on 6 synthesized PPD analogues (namely, P1-P6) with different chemical properties, to study the role of functional groups on detoxification mechanisms in HaCaT skin cells. These compounds were carefully designed with different chemical properties (whereby the ortho position of PPD was substituted by nucleophile and electrophile groups to promote N-acetylation reactions, metabolism and clearance). Compounds P2-P4 N-acetylated at 54-49 nmol/mg/min, which is 1.6 times higher than N-acetylation of PPD, upregulated NAT-1 activity from 8-7% at 50 μM to 22-11% at 100 μM and showed 4 times higher rate of elimination (k equal to 0.141 ± 0.016-0.124 ± 0.01 h^-1) and 3 times faster rate of clearance (0.172 ± 0.007-0.158 ± 0.005 h^-1mgprotein^-1) than PPD (0.0316 ± 0.0019 h^-1, 0.0576 ± 0.003 h^-1mg protein^-1, respectively). The data suggest that nucleophile substituted compounds detoxify at a faster rate than PPD. Our metabolic and detoxification mechanistic studies revealed significantly higher rates of N-acetylation, NAT-1 activity and higher detoxification of P2-P4 in keratinocytes, suggesting the importance of nucleophilic groups at the ortho position in PPD to reduce toxicity of aniline-based dyes on human skin cells.

Revealing the binding properties between resorcinol and DNA

Resorcinol (1,3-dihydroxybenzene) is a common coupling agent in permanent hair dyes, and has arrested people's attention for its potential hazard to human health. However, the action mechanism of resorcinol and human DNA has not been elucidated. In this research, the binding properties between resorcinol and calf thymus DNA (ct-DNA) were studied for the first time through various spectral and molecular docking techniques. Spectral studies showed that the initial fluorescence quenching of resorcinol against DNA was a static one. The result of ΔH < 0 and ΔS > 0 was produced from thermodynamic experimental data, therefore it could be concluded that electrostatic force was the major driving force, while binding constant K_b was 1.56 × 10⁴  M^-1 at 298 K. The electrostatic binding network between resorcinol and ct-DNA was established explicitly through competitive substitution analysis and other spectral approaches. The results of FT-IR absorption spectra indicated that resorcinol had bound to the DNA phosphate skeleton. Molecular docking clearly revealed that binding occurred between hydroxyl groups of resorcinol and phosphorus oxygen bonds (P-O) of the DNA skeleton. These findings may deepen our understanding of the action mechanism between resorcinol and ct-DNA and provide some useful data on the effect of resorcinol on human diseases.

Freezing Weakens the Barrier Function of Reconstructed Human Epidermis as Evidenced by Raman Spectroscopy and Percutaneous Permeation

The development and characterization of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) is an active area of R&D. RHE can replace animal tissues in pharmaceutical, toxicological and cosmetic sciences, yielding scientific and ethical advantages. RHEs remain costly, however, due to consumables and time required for their culture and a short shelf-life. Storing, i.e., freezing RHE could help reduce costs but to date, little is known on the effects of freezing on the barrier function of RHE. We studied such effects using commercial EpiSkin™ RHE stored at -20, -80 and -150 °C for 1 and 10 weeks. We acquired intrinsic Raman spectra in the stratum corneum (SC) of the RHEs as well as spectra obtained following topical application of resorcinol in an aqueous solution. In parallel, we quantified the effects of freezing on the permeation kinetics of resorcinol from time-dependent permeation experiments. Principal component analyses discriminated the intrinsic SC spectra and the spectra of resorcinol-containing RHEs, in each case on the basis of the freezing conditions. Permeation of resorcinol through the frozen RHE increased 3- to 6-fold compared to fresh RHE, with the strongest effect obtained from freezing at -20 °C for 10 weeks. Due to the extensive optimization and standardization of EpiSkin™ RHE, the effects observed in our work may be expected to be more pronounced with other RHEs.