Photostability of sunscreens

Using cephalopod-inspired chemistry to extend long-wavelength ultraviolet and visible light protection of mineral sunscreens

OBJECTIVE

The emergence of new human and environmental-related toxicity data associated with some common UV filters has catalysed growing interest in the inclusion of boosters and stabilizing ingredients in sunscreens. One approach is to incorporate alternative materials inspired by or mimetic of systems in biology, which offer a notable evolutionary advantage of multifunctionality and stability with increased biocompatibility. We describe the use of a natural product, Xanthochrome® (INCI: Ammonium Xanthommatin), in a series of studies designed to not only assess its safety with marine systems but also its formulation compatibility and function in water-in-oil mineral sunscreens. Xanthochrome is the synthetic form of the naturally occurring chromophore xanthommatin (XA) present in cephalopod skin, which doubles as a photostable antioxidant; however, it has never been explored in combination with mineral UV filters in finished formulations.

METHODS

Given the recent controversies associated with the environmental toxicological effects of some chemicals used in sunscreens, the safety of XA with coral cuttings was first validated at concentrations 5× above those used in our formulations. Next, a particle-based delivery of XA was designed and incorporated into a zinc oxide (ZnO)-based water-in-oil sunscreen, where the SPF, critical wavelength, and visible light (VL) blocking potential were measured.

RESULTS

We observed no adverse effects of XA at 100 mg/L when tested with coral cuttings, demonstrating its safety at concentrations exceeding those used in our sunscreens. When formulated with ZnO-based sunscreens, the inclusion of XA increased the total UV absorbance profile by 28% and the total blocking potential of VL by 45%. The formulations also elicited no dermal irritation or sensitization in a human insult repeat patch test (N = 100 subjects).

CONCLUSIONS

XA is differentiated as a photostable, water-soluble compound that is a VL booster proven safe for skin and coral cuttings. To the best of our knowledge, there are no other boosters that can be classified as such, despite a growing body of literature highlighting the need in the industry.

Environmental implications and nanotechnological advances in octocrylene-enriched sunscreen formulations: A comprehensive review

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin aging, cancer, and other detrimental health effects. Sunscreens containing FDA-approved UV filters, like avobenzone, offer protection but suffer from photodegradation and potential phototoxicity. Encapsulation, antioxidants, and photostabilizers are strategies employed to combat these drawbacks. Octocrylene, an organic UV filter, utilizes nanotechnology to enhance sun protection factor (SPF). This review examines recent literature on octocrylene-enriched sunscreens, exploring the interplay between environmental impact, nanotechnological advancements, and clinical trial insights. A critical focus is placed on the environmental consequences of sunscreen use, particularly the potential hazards UV filters pose to marine ecosystems. Research in the Mediterranean Sea suggests bacterial sensitivity to these filters, raising concerns about their integration into the food chain. This review aims to guide researchers in developing effective strategies for photostabilization of UV filters. By combining encapsulation, photostabilizers, and antioxidants, researchers can potentially reduce phototoxic effects and contribute to developing more environmentally friendly sunscreens.

Ultraviolet light blocking optically clear adhesives for foldable displays via highly efficient visible-light curing

In developing an organic light-emitting diode (OLED) panel for a foldable smartphone (specifically, a color filter on encapsulation) aimed at reducing power consumption, the use of a new optically clear adhesive (OCA) that blocks UV light was crucial. However, the incorporation of a UV-blocking agent within the OCA presented a challenge, as it restricted the traditional UV-curing methods commonly used in the manufacturing process. Although a visible-light curing technique for producing UV-blocking OCA was proposed, its slow curing speed posed a barrier to commercialization. Our study introduces a highly efficient photo-initiating system (PIS) for the rapid production of UV-blocking OCAs utilizing visible light. We have carefully selected the photocatalyst (PC) to minimize electron and energy transfer to UV-blocking agents and have chosen co-initiators that allow for faster electron transfer and more rapid PC regeneration compared to previously established amine-based co-initiators. This advancement enabled a tenfold increase in the production speed of UV-blocking OCAs, while maintaining their essential protective, transparent, and flexible properties. When applied to OLED devices, this OCA demonstrated UV protection, suggesting its potential for broader application in the safeguarding of various smart devices.

Changes in Tablet Color Due to Light Irradiation: Photodegradation of the Coating Polymer, Hypromellose, by Titanium Dioxide

The color of the tablets and capsules produced by pharmaceutical companies is important from the perspectives of product branding and counterfeiting. According to some studies, light can change tablet color during storage. In this study, tablets comprising amlodipine besylate (AB), a well-known light-sensitive drug, were coated with commonly used coating materials and exposed to light. Compared to the tablets that were not exposed to light, the color of those exposed to light changed over time. In fact, a faster and more pronounced color change was observed in the tablets exposed to light; however, the amount of AB did not decrease significantly in these tablets. The coating materials and their amounts were varied to clarify the materials involved in the color change. Based on the results, titanium dioxide and hypromellose may be involved in the color change process. As titanium dioxide is a photocatalyst, it may induce or promote chemical changes in hypromellose upon light irradiation. Overall, care should be exercised during selection of the coating polymer because titanium dioxide may promote photodegradation of the coatings while protecting the tablet's active ingredient from light.

Recent developments in tuning the efficacy of different types of sunscreens

Due to recent global warming threats, the changes in the atmosphere have caused significant ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure, primarily emitted by the sun, which creates more awareness of photoprotection. Sunscreen development has been a convenient and crucial approach to photoprotection against ultraviolet radiation. Due to high demand, upgrading the quality of sunscreen products and certifying methods are necessary to guarantee the safety of commercial sunscreen products for use. Sunscreen products should have a satisfactory amount of sun protection factor (SPF), ultraviolet A protection factor, as well as the photostability of the sunscreens for them to be considered effective and safe for use. A rigorous study on the effectiveness of the sunscreen components and their safety standards is essential for the productive use and further improvement of the available sunscreen materials. This article summarizes the effects and issues, protective measures of sunscreen usage, and its components, mainly ultraviolet filters.

Status quo on identified transformation products of organic ultraviolet filters and their persistence

Organic micropollutants of concern-including organic UV filters (UVF)-are getting increasing attention. Personal care products such as sunscreens or cosmetic articles often contain large quantities of UVF. These substances enter the environment either directly (during outdoor activities) or indirectly (via sewages from households). Therefore, the removal or degradation of UVF by natural or technical treatment processes is important to understand. UVF are often incompletely removed and transformed to side products of incomplete mineralization by abiotic and biotic processes. An extensive overview on transformation products (TPs) is essential to systematically identify knowledge gaps and to derive research needs. While there are many reviews on the UVF themselves, the number of reviews which focus on their TPs is limited. Consequently, this review gives an overview on the latest findings regarding TPs of UVF. In this publication, known TPs of UVF, which were formed during abiotic and biotic processes, are reviewed. Target substances were defined and a literature database was reviewed for studies on TPs of the target substances. The first list of studies was shortened stepwise, thus generating a final list of studies which contained only the relevant studies. Since biodegradation is one of the most important pathways for removal of organic compounds from the environment, this review presents an overview on known TPs of organic UVF and their biodegradability, which determines their environmental fate. In this way, all identified TPs of UVF were listed and checked for information on their biodegradability. A total of 2731 records of studies were assessed. Forty-two studies, which assessed 46 processes that lead to the formation of identified TPs, were included in this review. One hundred and seventyseven different TPs resulting from 11 different UVF were identified. Little to no data on the biodegradability was found for TPs. This indicates a severe lack of data on the biodegradability of TPs of organic UVF substances. Since most TPs lack information on biodegradability, further research should provide information on both-identity and biodegradability-of formed TPs to be able to assess their hazardousness for the environment.

Ultrafast excited-state energy dissipation pathway of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) via the nanoparticles

The organic UVA filter is popularized in sunscreen cosmetics due to the advantages of excellent light stability and high molar extinction coefficient. However, the poor water solubility of organic UV filters has been a common problem. Given that nanoparticles (NPs) can significantly improve the water solubility of organic chemicals. Meanwhile, the excited-state relaxation pathways of NPs might differ from their solution. Here, the NPs of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), a popular organic UVA filter, were prepared by an advanced ultrasonic micro-flow reactor. The surfactant (sodium dodecyl sulfate) was selected as an effective stabilizer to prevent the self-aggregation of the NPs for DHHB. Femtosecond transient ultrafast spectroscopy (fs-TA) and theoretical calculations were utilized to trace and explain the excited-state evolution of DHHB in NPs suspension and its solution. The results reveal that the surfactant-stabilized NPs of DHHB reserve a similarly good performance of ultrafast excited-state relaxation. The stability characterization experiments demonstrate that the strategy of surfactant-stabilized NPs for sunscreen chemicals can maintain its stability and enhance the water solubility of DHHB compared with that of the solution phase. Therefore, the surfactant-stabilized NPs of organic UV filters are an effective method to improve water solubility and keep the stability from aggregation and photoexcitation.

Characteristic Photoprotective Molecules from the Sphagnum World: A Solution-Phase Ultrafast Study of Sphagnic Acid

A natural UV-absorbing chromophore extracted from sphagnum mosses, sphagnic acid, is proposed as a new natural support to chemical UV filters for use in cosmetic applications. Sphagnic acid is structurally related to the cinnamate family of molecules, known for their strong UV absorption, efficient non-radiative decay, and antioxidant properties. In this study, transient electronic absorption spectroscopy is used, in conjunction with steady-state techniques, to model the photodynamics following photoexcitation of sphagnic acid in different solvent systems. Sphagnic acid was found in each system to relax with lifetimes of ~200 fs and ~1.5 ps before generating a cis-isomer photoproduct. This study helps to elucidate the photoprotective mechanism of a new potential natural support to sunscreens, from a unique plant source.

Isolation of Mycosporine-like Amino Acids from Red Macroalgae and a Marine Lichen by High-Performance Countercurrent Chromatography: A Strategy to Obtain Biological UV-Filters

Marine organisms have gained considerable biotechnological interest in recent years due to their wide variety of bioactive compounds with potential applications. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are UV-absorbing secondary metabolites with antioxidant and photoprotective capacity, mainly found in organisms living under stress conditions (e.g., cyanobacteria, red algae, or lichens). In this work, five MAAs were isolated from two red macroalgae (Pyropia columbina and Gelidium corneum) and one marine lichen (Lichina pygmaea) by high-performance countercurrent chromatography (HPCCC). The selected biphasic solvent system consisted of ethanol, acetonitrile, saturated ammonium sulphate solution, and water (1:1:0.5:1; v:v:v:v). The HPCCC process for P. columbina and G. corneum consisted of eight separation cycles (1 g and 200 mg of extract per cycle, respectively), whereas three cycles were performed for of L. pygmaea (1.2 g extract per cycle). The separation process resulted in fractions enriched with palythine (2.3 mg), asterina-330 (3.3 mg), shinorine (14.8 mg), porphyra-334 (203.5 mg) and mycosporine-serinol (46.6 mg), which were subsequently desalted by using precipitation with methanol and permeation on a Sephadex G-10 column. Target molecules were identified by HPLC, MS, and NMR.

Exploring Mycosporine-like Amino Acid UV-Absorbing Natural Products for a New Generation of Environmentally Friendly Sunscreens

Human skin needs additional protection from damaging ultraviolet radiation (UVR: 280-400 nm). Harmful UVR exposure leads to DNA damage and the development of skin cancer. Available sunscreens offer chemical protection from detrimental sun radiation to a certain extent. However, many synthetic sunscreens do not provide sufficient UVR protection due to the lack of photostability of their UV-absorbing active ingredients and/or the lack of ability to prevent the formation of free radicals, inevitably leading to skin damage. In addition, synthetic sunscreens may negatively affect human skin, causing irritation, accelerating skin aging and even resulting in allergic reactions. Beyond the potential negative effect on human health, some synthetic sunscreens have been shown to have a harmful impact on the environment. Consequently, identifying photostable, biodegradable, non-toxic, and renewable natural UV filters is imperative to address human health needs and provide a sustainable environmental solution. In nature, marine, freshwater, and terrestrial organisms are protected from harmful UVR through several important photoprotective mechanisms, including the synthesis of UV-absorbing compounds such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). Beyond MAAs, several other promising, natural UV-absorbing products could be considered for the future development of natural sunscreens. This review investigates the damaging impact of UVR on human health and the necessity of using sunscreens for UV protection, specifically UV-absorbing natural products that are more environmentally friendly than synthetic UV filters. Critical challenges and limitations related to using MAAs in sunscreen formulations are also evaluated. Furthermore, we explain how the genetic diversity of MAA biosynthetic pathways may be linked to their bioactivities and assess MAAs' potential for applications in human health.

A Bioinspired Skin UV Filter with Broadband UV Protection, Photostability, and Resistance to Oxidative Damage

In recent years, sunscreens' adverse impacts on the environment and biology have gained wide attention. The improvement of sunscreen safety has become one of the major priorities in skin photoprotection research. It is an effective strategy to develop bionic photoprotective materials by simulating the photoprotective mechanism existing in nature. Inspired by the photoprotective mechanisms of skin and plant leaves, the bionic photoprotective material CS-SA-PDA nanosheet was developed using the free radical grafting method and Michael addition, with natural melanin analogue polydopamine (PDA) nanoparticles and plant sunscreen molecular sinapic acid (SA) as sun protection factors and natural polymer chitosan (CS) as the connecting arm. The results show that CS-SA-PDA can effectively shield UVB and UVA due to the possible synergistic effect between PDA and SA. The introduction of polymer CS significantly improved the photostability of SA and reduced the skin permeability of PDA nanoparticles. The CS-SA-PDA nanosheet can also effectively scavenge photoinduced free radicals. Furthermore, in vivo toxicity and anti-UV evaluations confirm that CS-SA-PDA has no skin irritation and is excellent against skin photodamage, which makes it an ideal skin photoprotective material.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

Degradation of 2-phenylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonic acid by UV/chlorine advanced oxidation technology: Kinetic model, degradation byproducts and reaction pathways

In this study, the degradation kinetic model and pathways of a UV filter, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA) during UV/chlorination were investigated. PBSA hardly degraded under UV irradiation or chlorination alone, but its degradation in UV/chlorination was efficient and followed pseudo-first order kinetics at pH 7. Increasing the chlorine dosage from 12.5 to 200 μM can enhance PBSA degradation, while increasing pH from 5 to 9 caused opposite effect. The second-order rate constants between radicals (∙Cl, ∙ClO, and ∙OH) and PBSA and the contribution of ∙OH during UV/chlorination were determined. ∙Cl and ∙OH were confirmed to be the main contributors to PBSA degradation. The presence of background [Formula: see text] and humic acid can inhibit PBSA degradation, but the presence of Cl^- showed negligible effect. Kinetic model was established, and the prediction correlated well to the experimental results. The mineralization rate in terms of total organic carbon increased with reaction time to 44.9% after 60 min UV/chlorination. The PBSA degradation intermediates in UV/chlorination were identified, and the transformation pathways were proposed accordingly. Furthermore, the formation of chlorinated disinfection by-products (Cl-DBPs) were evaluated in the sequential chlorination for comprehensively evaluation of the efficiency, mechanism, and safety of removing PBSA using UV/chlorination.

A Perspective on Femtosecond Pump-Probe Spectroscopy in the Development of Future Sunscreens

Given the negative impacts of overexposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) on humans, sunscreens have become a widely used product. Certain ingredients within sunscreens are responsible for photoprotection and these are known, collectively herein, as ultraviolet (UV) filters. Generally speaking, organic UV filters work by absorbing the potentially harmful UVR and dissipating this energy as harmless heat. This process happens on picosecond time scales and so femtosecond pump–probe spectroscopy (FPPS) is an ideal technique for tracking this energy conversion in real time. Coupling FPPS with complementary techniques, including steady-state spectroscopy and computational methods, can provide a detailed mechanistic picture of how UV filters provide photoprotection. As such, FPPS is crucial in aiding the future design of UV filters. This Perspective sheds light on the advancements made over the past two years on both approved and nature-inspired UV filters. Moreover, we suggest where FPPS can be further utilized within sunscreen applications for future considerations.

Stability and Removal of Benzophenone-Type UV Filters from Water Matrices by Advanced Oxidation Processes

Benzophenone (BP) type UV filters are common environmental contaminants that are posing a growing health concern due to their increasing presence in water. Different studies have evidenced the presence of benzophenones (BP, BP-1, BP-2, BP-3, BP-4, BP-9, HPB) in several environmental matrices, indicating that conventional technologies of water treatment are not able to remove them. It has also been reported that these compounds could be associated with endocrine-disrupting activities, genotoxicity, and reproductive toxicity. This review focuses on the degradation kinetics and mechanisms of benzophenone-type UV filters and their degradation products (DPs) under UV and solar irradiation and in UV-based advanced oxidation processes (AOPs) such as UV/H₂O₂, UV/persulfate, and the Fenton process. The effects of various operating parameters, such as UV irradiation including initial concentrations of H₂O₂, persulfate, and Fe²⁺, on the degradation of tested benzophenones from aqueous matrices, and conditions that allow higher degradation rates to be achieved are presented. Application of nanoparticles such as TiO₂, PbO/TiO₂, and Sb₂O₃/TiO₂ for the photocatalytic degradation of benzophenone-type UV filters was included in this review.

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.

Substituent and Solvent Effects on the Photoisomerization of Cinnamate Derivatives: An XMS-CASPT2 Study

Cinnamate derivatives show a variety of photo-induced reactions. Among them is trans-cis photoisomerization, which may involve the nonradiative decay (NRD) process. The extended multistate complete active space second-order perturbation (XMS-CASPT2) method was used in this study as a suitable theory for treating multireference electronic nature, which was frequently manifested in the photoisomerization process. The minimum energy paths of the trans-cis photoisomerization process of cinnamate derivatives were determined, and the activation energies were estimated using the resulting intrinsic reaction coordinate (IRC) paths. Natural orbital analysis revealed that the transition state's (TS) electronic structure is zwitterionic-like, elucidating the solvent and substituent effect on the energy barrier of photoisomerization paths. Furthermore, it was found that the charge on the pyramidalized carbon atom at the TS structure was strongly correlated with the activation energy barrier for the cinnamate derivatives. Thus, it seemingly provided a physical picture of the photoisomerization of cinnamates and was a good descriptor potentially applicable to molecular design for controlling the rate constant of the photoisomerization reaction.

Silsesquioxanes in the Cosmetics Industry-Applications and Perspectives

The rising demand for innovative and sophisticated personal care products is a driving factor for manufacturers to obtain new formulations that will fulfill the customers' preferences. In recent years, silsesquioxanes have attracted the attention of the cosmetics industry. These compounds have been proposed to be used in novel cosmetic formulations as emollient, dispersant, and viscosity modifiers. Therefore, this publication aims to review the main important aspects of polyhedral oligosilsesquioxanes as ingredients of personal care formulations, taking into consideration different types of products. The methods of obtaining these compounds were also presented. Additionally, the detailed analysis of patents dedicated to the application of silsesquioxanes in cosmetic formulations was also performed.

Analyzing the Photoprotection Efficiency of Sunscreens Containing Antioxidants under Disinfection Conditions

Sunscreens ensure thorough protection against sunburn. The delivery of UV filters into the stratum corneum and viable epidermis could be reduced by the use of antioxidants (such as β-carotene and trans-resveratrol, alone or combined). The presence/absence of antioxidants (trans-resveratrol and β-carotene) in formulations containing benzophenone-3 (UV-filter) and their efficiency under disinfection and neutral conditions are studied and compared. The trial was conducted on 38 people. The prepared ointments were applied to the participants’ forearms, irradiated and monitored by reflectance colorimetry after 0, 4, 6, and 8 min. Descriptive statistics were used to describe the skin color’s main characteristics and the F-ratio was used to test overall differences. The ointments containing antioxidants and benzophenone-3 were the most efficient, followed by those with benzophenone-3 alone. It was proven that photoprotection with benzophenone-3 is still effective, despite the formation of its chlorinated products. Due to the short time of exposure to disinfecting conditions, it could be assumed that benzophenone-3 was only partially chlorinated. This clinical study demonstrated that formulations containing antioxidants are likely to be more suitable for protecting skin against UVB irradiation than a UV filter alone.

Zinc oxide-induced changes to sunscreen ingredient efficacy and toxicity under UV irradiation

Sunscreen safety and efficacy is generally evaluated based upon the properties of the individual chemicals in a formulation. However, the photostability of sunscreens has been shown to be highly dependent on the mixture of chemicals present. To better understand how sunscreen formulation influences stability, and to establish a foundation for probing the influence of zinc oxide additives, we formulated five different small-molecule based ultraviolet-filter (UV-filter) mixtures with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 15. These mixtures contained active ingredients approved in either the United States or European Union and were designed to represent formulations of actual products on the market. We evaluated the photostability and toxicity of these mixtures in the absence and presence of zinc oxide after UV exposure for two hours. Changes in UV absorbance were minimal for all five small-molecule-based mixtures without zinc oxide. The presence of either micro- or nano-sized zinc oxide caused significant small-molecule photodegradation and the degraded mixtures exhibited higher levels of toxicity in embryonic zebrafish assays. This study suggests that caution must be taken when formulating sunscreens containing both zinc oxide and small-molecule UV-filters to avoid unintended consequences during use.

Biological Investigations of Ru(II) Complexes With Diverse β-diketone Ligands

The β-diketone scaffold is a commonly used synthetic intermediate, and is a functional group found in natural products such as curcuminoids. This core structure can also act as a chelating ligand for a variety of metals. In order to assess the potential of this scaffold for medicinal inorganic chemistry, seven different κ2-O,O'-chelating ligands were used to construct Ru(II) complexes with polypyridyl co-ligands, and their biological activity was evaluated. The complexes demonstrated promising structure-dependent cytotoxicity. Three complexes maintained high activity in a tumor spheroid model, and all complexes demonstrated low in vivo toxicity in a zebrafish model. From this series, the best compound exhibited a ~ 30-fold window between cytotoxicity in a 3-D tumor spheroid model and potential in vivo toxicity. These results suggest that κ2-O,O'-ligands can be incorporated into Ru(II)-polypyridyl complexes to create favorable candidates for future drug development.

Elucidating the Photoluminescence Quenching in Ensulizole: an Artificial Water Soluble Sunscreen

Employing natural or artificial sunscreens is essential to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiations that cause premature aging and develop melanoma and other forms of skin cancer. The 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, commonly known as ensulizole is a water-soluble artificial sunscreen that absorb UV-B (280 nm - 315 nm) radiations and protects the skin against the harmful effects of these radiations. We have measured steady-state photoluminescence (SSPL) spectra and photoluminescence (PL) kinetics of this compound in various conditions. Steady-state absorption indicates a strong absorption feature at 303 nm and a weak one at 316 nm that have been identified as π → π* and n → π* transitions, respectively. The spectra of PL induced by these absorptions indicate that the PL of ensulizole is less Stokes-shifted in polar solvents and more Stokes-shifted in non-polar solvents. The average PL lifetime of ensulizole is longer in non-polar solvents than in polar solvents and it exhibits the shortest PL lifetime in aqueous medium that maximize its transition efficiency in water. This suggests in non-polar solvents intersystem crossing is the dominant mode of relaxation of the excited ππ* state. Furthermore, an increase of pH of ensulizole solution decreases the PL intensity and the lifetime. Stern-Volmer equation is employed to evaluate bimolecular quenching rate constant kq. The evaluation result suggests the diffusional dynamic mode of PL quenching is operative.

Mechanistic Aspects of the Photophysics of UVA Filters Based on Meldrum Derivatives

Skin photoprotection against UVA radiation is crucial, but it is hindered by the sparsity of approved commercial UVA filters. Sinapoyl malate (SM) derivatives are promising candidates for a new class of UVA filters. They have been previously identified as an efficient photoprotective sunscreen in plants due to their fast nonradiative energy dissipation. Combining experimental and computational results, in our previous letter (J. Phys. Chem. Lett. 2021, 12, 337-344) we showed that coumaryl Meldrum (CMe) and sinapoyl Meldrum (SMe) are outstanding candidates for UVA filters in sunscreen formulations. Here, we deliver a comprehensive computational characterization of the excited-state dynamics of these molecules. Using reaction pathways and excited-state dynamics simulations, we could elucidate the photodeactivation mechanism of these molecules. Upon photoexcitation, they follow a two-step logistic decay. First, an ultrafast and efficient relaxation stabilizes the excited state alongside a 90° twisting around the allylic double bond, giving rise to a minimum with a twisted intramolecular excited-state (TICT) character. From this minimum, internal conversion to the ground state occurs after overcoming a 0.2 eV barrier. Minor differences in the nonradiative decay and fluorescence of CMe and SMe are associated with an additional minimum present only in the latter.

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane: Toxicological effects on marine biota and human concerns

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) (CAS number: 5466-77-3) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM) (CAS number: 70356-09-1) are important sunscreens. However, frequent application of large amounts of these compounds may reflect serious environmental impact, once it enters the environment through indirect release via wastewater treatment or immediate release during water activities. In this article, we reviewed the toxicological effects of EHMC and BMDM on aquatic ecosystems and the human consequences. According to the literature, EHMC and BMDM have been detected in water samples and sediments worldwide. Consequently, these compounds are also present in several marine organisms like fish, invertebrates, coral reefs, marine mammals, and other species, due to its bioaccumulation potential. Studies show that these chemicals are capable of damaging the aquatic beings in different ways. Further, bioaccumulation studies have shown that EHMC biomagnifies through trophic levels, which makes human seafood consumption a concern because the higher position in the trophic chain, the more elevate levels of ultraviolet (UV) filters are detected, and it is established that EHMC present adverse effects on the human organism. In contrast, there are no studies on the BMDM bioaccumulation and biomagnification potential. Different strategies can be adopted to avoid the damage caused by sunscreens in the environment and human organism. Two of them include the use of natural photoprotectors, such as polyphenols, in association with UV filters in sunscreens and the development of new and safer UV filters. Overall, this review shows the importance of studying the impacts of sunscreens in nature and developing safer sunscreens and formulations to safeguard marine fauna, ecosystems, and humans.

Zn(ferulate)-LSH Systems as Multifunctional Filters

Excessive UV solar radiation exposure causes human health risks; therefore, the study of multifunctional filters is important to skin UV protective ability and also to other beneficial activities to the human organism, such as reduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) responsible for cellular damages. Potential multifunctional filters were obtained by intercalating of ferulate anions into layered simple metal hydroxides (LSH) through anion exchange and precipitation at constant pH methods. Ultrasound treatment was used in order to investigate the structural changes in LSH-ferulate materials. Structural and spectroscopic analyses show the formation of layered materials composed by a mixture of LSH intercalated with ferulate anions, where carboxylate groups of ferulate species interact with LSH layers. UV-VIS absorption spectra and in vitro SPF measurements indicate that LSH-ferulate systems have UV shielding capacity, mainly UVB protection. The results of reactive species assays show the ability of layered compounds in capture DPPH^•, ABTS^•+, ROO^•, and HOCl/OCl⁻ reactive species. LSH-ferulate materials exhibit antioxidant activity and singular optical properties that enable their use as multifunctional filters.

Effects of UV-filter Photostabilizers in the Photostability and Phototoxicity of Vitamin A Palmitate Combined with Avobenzone and Octyl Methoxycinnamate

A challenge for cosmetic and dermatologic products is to develop new high-performance and safer anti-aging products based on new compounds to enhance the stability of retinyl palmitate combined with broad-spectrum UV-filters. Consequently, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effects of three often used avobenzone photostabilizers-ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (EHMCR), tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate (TTMHP) and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT)-on the photostability and phototoxicity of the combination of avobenzone (AVO), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and retinyl palmitate (RP). The photostability studies were performed by the exposure of formulations to UVA radiation. The phototoxicity was evaluated by the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxic assay (OECD TG 432). The addition of EHMCR, TBPT, and TTMHP in the formulations, with/or without RP, improved the photostability of AVO and RP, but EHMCR was the most effective in stabilizing RP. In the phototoxicity assay, the combinations AVO-OMC containing or not RP showed phototoxic potential. EHMCR and TTMHP reduced the phototoxicity of the combination AVO-OMC, whereas EHMCR also decreased the phototoxicity of the combination containing RP. Therefore, EHMCR might be used to the photostabilization of formulations of AVO-OMC with/or not RP, while TTMHP can be added to this photounstable UV-filter combination.

Simple, green, ultrasound-assisted preparation of novel core-shell microcapsules from octyl methoxycinnamate and oligomeric proanthocyanidins for UV-stable sunscreen

Without sunscreens, UV rays in sunlight cause skin damage, ranging from dark spots and premature aging to skin cancer. Present sunscreens, however, are readily photodegraded, producing highly reactive radicals that can damage cells. To address this problem, we have now used ultrasound to prepare core-shell microcapsules, which offer improved protection against UV light and improved UV stability. The composite microcapsules have oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs), which are amphiphilic plant-derived secondary metabolites, as the shell and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), which is a UVB absorber, as the core. The polyphenolic flavonoid structure of OPCs improves the UV stability of OMC and thus avoids the skin damage caused by OMC photodegradation products. In the microcapsules, π-π stacking interactions between OPCs and OMC molecules enhance the ability of OMC to absorb UV radiation and extend the absorption range from the UVB region (280-320 nm) to include the UVA and UVC regions (200-400 nm). The composite microcapsules were shown to be stable on storage and to be non-irritant to human skin. The ultrasound-assisted preparation of OMC/OPCs composite microcapsules is simple, efficient and green and provides a feasible strategy for the development of novel, more effective, sunscreens.

Photoprotection With Mineral-Based Sunscreens

BACKGROUND

Although chemical sunscreens have traditionally been at the forefront of sun protection, safety concerns and increasing awareness of the environmental impact of personal-care products have led to greater interest in the use of mineral blockers as photoprotective agents.

OBJECTIVE

To examine the safety and efficacy of mineral-based sunscreens to allow patients to make informed choices about ultraviolet (UV) protection.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A review of the literature was performed using the PubMed database.

RESULTS

This article provides an overview of physical blockers and focuses on the efficacy of mineral sunscreens in offering broad-spectrum UV protection and safety concerns, including the controversy surrounding the use of nanoparticles. Practical tips for application are also reviewed.

CONCLUSION

Mineral sunscreens are an attractive, efficacious option for consumers who prefer alternative choices in sun protection.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids from Marine Resource

In the last 10 years, a great number of publications (both regular papers and reviews) have been published on the interesting molecules—mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). Despite significant advances in the research of MAAs, current overviews in the recent publications involving MAA research still need reporting. The aim of this Special Issue is to join, as an interdisciplinary approach, the photochemical and photobiological aspects, with emphasis on new natural resources to obtain both algae and zooplankton MAAs, advances in methodology of extraction and chemical identification of new MAAs. Finally, this Special Issue reviews the bioactivities of MAAs including UVR screen, antioxidant, immunostimulant, growth factor, DNA protection, inhibition of collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase, and anti-photoaging, among others, and their potential use as nutracosmeceutic molecules (i.e., oral and topic photoprotector).

Exploring the Inclusion Complex of a Drug (Umbelliferone) with α-Cyclodextrin Optimized by Molecular Docking and Increasing Bioavailability with Minimizing the Doses in Human Body

In this study, umbelliferone and α-cyclodextrin host molecules have been mixed up through a coprecipitation method to prepare a supramolecular complex to provide physical insights into the formation and stability of the inclusion complex (IC). The prepared hybrid was characterized by ¹H nuclear magnetic resonance (¹H NMR), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, electrospray ionization (ESI) mass spectrometry, DSC, and fluorescence spectroscopic studies. Job's plot provides a stoichiometric ratio of 1:1 and the Benesi-Hildebrand double reciprocal plot gives binding constant values using fluorescence spectroscopic titrations and the ESI mass data support the experimental observations. The results of molecular modeling were systematically analyzed to validate the inclusion complexation. In preliminary computational screening, α-cyclodextrin IC of umbelliferone was found to be quite stable based on the docking score, binding free energies, and dynamic simulations. In addition, the results obtained from ¹H NMR and FTIR spectroscopy studies supported the inclusion complexation phenomenon. The results obtained from computational studies were found to be consistent with the experimental data to ascertain the encapsulation of umbelliferone into α-cyclodextrin.

Computational and experimental characterization of novel ultraviolet filters

Many current ultraviolet filters present potential hazards both to humans and to the natural environment. As such there is a new impetus to develop, through intimate characterisation, ultraviolet filters for use in cosmeceuticals. Here we report a new class of organic molecules which have a strong absorption band across the ultraviolet-A and -B regions of the electromagnetic spectrum and high photostability. We have performed ultrafast transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and steady-state spectroscopies, alongside computational studies to track and manipulate photoprotection mechanisms. Our results present a potentially new generation of ultraviolet filters for use in commercial formulations.

The effect of deuteration on the keto-enol equilibrium and photostability of the sunscreen agent avobenzone

The remarkable properties of deuterium have led to many exciting and favourable results in enhancing material properties, for applications in the physical, medical, and biological sciences. Deuterated isotopologues of avobenzone, a sunscreen active ingredient, were synthesised to examine for any changes to the equilibrium between the diketone and enol isomers, as well as their UV photostability and photoprotective properties. Prior to UV irradiation, deuteration of the diketone methylene/enol moiety (i.e. avobenzone-d2) led to an increase in the % diketone compared to non-deuterated, determined by 1H NMR experiments in CDCl3 and C6D12. This can be rationalised from two angles; mechanistically by a deuterium kinetic isotope effect for the CH vs. CD abstraction step during tautomerisation from the diketone to the enol, and a weaker chelating hydrogen bond for the enol when deuterated allowing increased equilibration to the diketone. Avobenzone-d2 was further examined by solid state 13C NMR. The higher % diketone for avobenzone-d2 was postulated to favour increased photodegradation by a non-reversible pathway. This was investigated by UV irradiation of the avobenzone isotopologues in C6D12, both in real time in situ within the NMR by fibre optic cable as well as ex situ using sunlight. An increase in the relative amount of photoproducts for avobenzone-d2 compared to non-deuterated was observed by 1H NMR upon UV irradiation ex situ. Overall, the study demonstrates that deuteration can be applied to alter complex equilibria, and has potential to be manifested as changes to the properties and behaviour of materials.

Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy

There are several drawbacks with the current commercially available ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreen formulations, namely deleterious human and ecotoxic effects. As a result of the drawbacks, a current research interest is in identifying and designing new UV filters. One approach that has been explored in recent years is to use nature as inspiration, which is the focus of this review. Both plants and microorganisms have adapted to synthesize their own photoprotective molecules to guard their DNA from potentially harmful UV radiation. The relaxation mechanism of a molecule after it has been photoexcited can be unravelled by several techniques, the ones of most interest for this review being ultrafast spectroscopy and computational methods. Within the literature, both techniques have been implemented on plant-, and microbial-inspired UV filters to better understand their photoprotective roles in nature. This review aims to explore these findings for both families of nature-inspired UV filters in the hope of guiding the future design of sunscreens.

Exploring the Potential Use of Hylocereus polyrhizus Peels as a Source of Cosmeceutical Sunscreen Agent for Its Antioxidant and Photoprotective Properties

Currently, consumers' demand for sunscreens derived from natural sources that provide photoprotection from ultraviolet (UV) radiation is pushing the cosmetic industry to develop breakthrough formulations of sun protection products by incorporating plant antioxidants as their active ingredients. In this context, the present study was initiated to evaluate the antioxidant and photoprotective properties of the underutilized Hylocereus polyrhizus peel extract (HPPE) using in vitro spectrophotometric techniques. The phytochemical screenings of HPPE conducted via high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UPLC-QTOF/MS) revealed the presence of phenolic acids and flavonoids as the major secondary metabolites in HPPE. The antioxidant potentials evaluated based on 2, 2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical and total antioxidant capacity assays were in the range of 22.16 ± 0.24%-84.67 ± 0.03% with 50% inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 36.39 ± 0.04 μg/mL and 23.76 ± 0.14%-31.87 ± 0.26% (IC50 = 21.93 ± 0.07 μg/mL), respectively. For the photoprotective evaluation, the results showed that HPPE had significantly high absorbance values (3.1-3.6) at 290-320 nm with an exceptional sun protection factor (SPF) value of 35.02 ± 0.39 at 1.00 mg/mL. HPPE also possessed a broad-spectrum shielding power against both UVA and UVB radiations. Hence, in terms of practical implications, our findings would offer an exciting avenue to develop a photoprotective formulation incorporating the ethanolic extract of Hylocereus polyrhizus peels as a synergistic active ingredient for its excellent UV absorption properties and the strong antioxidant activities.

Synthesis and Characterization of Nanostructured Lipid Nanocarriers for Enhanced Sun Protection Factor of Octyl p-methoxycinnamate

Sunlight is important to health, but higher exposure to radiation causes early aging of the skin and skin damage that can lead to skin cancers. This study aimed at producing a stable octyl p-methoxycinnamate (OMC)-loaded nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) sunscreen, which can help in the photoprotective effect. NLC was produced by emulsification-sonication method and these systems were composed of myristyl myristate (MM), caprylic capric triglyceride (CCT), Tween® 80 (TW), and soybean phosphatidylcholine (SP) and characterized by dynamic light scattering (DLS), zeta potential (ZP) measurement, atomic force microscopy (AFM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and in vitro release studies. Pre-formulation studies were performed changing TW concentrations and no differences were found at concentrations of 1.0 and 2.0%. Two selected formulations were designed and showed an average size of 91.5-131.7, polydispersity index > 0.2, and a negative value of ZP. AFM presented a sphere-like morphology and SEM showed ability to form a thin film. DSC exhibited that the incorporation of OMC promoted reduction of enthalpy due to formation of a more amorphous structure. Drug release shows up to 55.74% and 30.57%, and this difference could be related to the presence of SP in this formulation that promoted a more amorphous structure; the release mechanism study indicated Fickian diffusion and relaxation. Sun protection factor (SPF) evaluation was performed using NLC and presented values around 40, considerably higher than those observed in the literature. The developed formulations provide a beneficial alternative to conventional sunscreen formulations.

A long lasting sunscreen controversy of 4-aminobenzoic acid and 4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde derivatives resolved by ultrafast spectroscopy combined with density functional theoretical study

4-Aminobenzoic acid (PABA) is one of the earliest patented and most commonly used sunscreen components. There is however a long-lasting controversy on its photo-protective efficacy owing to the lack of information on its protolytic equilibrium and photo-dynamics after absorption of ultraviolet radiation in physiologically relevant aqueous solution. The excitation dynamics in water also remains largely unknown for analogs of PABA such as 4-dimethylaminoacetophenone (DMAAP) and 4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde (DMABA) which are recognized as prototypes for photo-induced twisted intramolecular charge transfer (TICT). Herein we report a combined application of femtosecond broadband time-resolved fluorescence and transient absorption coupled with density functional theoretical study for PABA, DMAAP, and DMABA under several solvent conditions with representative properties in terms of the pH, polarity and hydrogen bonding capacity. The results we gained demonstrate that, in a neutral aqueous solution, PABA taking the deprotonated anion form in the ground state undergoes rapid protonation after excitation, producing excited state species in the neutral form that may shift effectively by intersystem crossing (ISC) to the long-lasting triplet state capable of damaging nucleic acids. This provides evidence at the molecular level for the detrimental effect of PABA if used as a sunscreen ingredient. In contrast, our investigation on DMAAP and DMABA unveils an unusual solvent controlled deactivation dynamics rendered by the participation of the carbonyl oxygen associated nOπ* state featuring energy and structure strongly responsive to solvent properties. In particular, these molecules in water exhibit solute-solvent hydrogen bonding at the sites of the carbonyl oxygen and the amino nitrogen which is, respectively, weakened and strengthened after the excitation, leading to state reversal and formation of a nOπ* state with a peculiar non-planar structure. This quenches strongly the excitation, eliminates the TICT, suppresses the ISC and opens up the otherwise inaccessible internal conversion (IC) to account for ∼80% of the entire deactivation. The IC, observed to proceed at a rate of ∼2.5 ps, allows the effective recovery of the ground state, providing substantial protection against ultraviolet irradiation. Moreover, the revelation of highly solvent sensitive fluorescence emission from DMABA and DMAAP implies the potential application of these molecules as the functional element in the design of sensory materials for probing the polarity and hydrogen bonding character of the surrounding environment.

Human metabolism and urinary excretion kinetics of the UV filter Uvinul A plus® after a single oral or dermal dosage

Hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate, better known under its trading name Uvinul A plus® is a UV filter mainly used in sunscreens, but also present in other cosmetic products with a maximum concentration of 10% (w/w) according to the EU directive. In this study we investigated the human metabolism after a single oral and a single dermal dose of Uvinul A plus®, respectively. Samples collected within 72 h of administration were analyzed with a newly developed UHPLC-MS/MS method. Results of the study revealed three major urinary metabolites, namely 2-(4-amino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (AHB), 2-(4-(ethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (EHB) and 2-(4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid (DHB), representing 52% of the administered oral dose. The three major metabolites are further converted into four minor metabolites with an additional hydroxyl group in the aniline moiety. Toxicokinetic parameters (amount excreted, t_max, elimination constant and half-life t_1/2) and conversion factors were determined for the three major metabolites. The conversion factors were used to estimate the mean daily exposure to Uvinul A plus® in spot urine samples from 58 volunteers not intentionally exposed to Uvinul A plus® derived from a pilot study. The three major metabolites were quantifiable in 26% of the samples. In 35% of the samples, at least one major metabolite could be quantified. The daily systemic exposure to Uvinul A plus® was estimated to approximately 8.1-9.3 μg/d by applying the combined conversion factor for all three major metabolites. In conclusion, a very low systemic exposure to DHHB was observed with regard to the no observed adverse effect level (NOAEL) as an established threshold for chronic uptake.

Electronic State and Photophysics of 2-Ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate as UV-B Sunscreen under Jet-Cooled Condition

The title compound, 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (2EH4MC), is known as a typical ingredient of sunscreen cosmetics that effectively converts the absorbed UV-B light to thermal energy. This energy conversion process includes the nonradiative decay (NRD): trans-cis isomerization and finally going back to the original structure with a release of thermal energy. In this study, we performed UV spectroscopy for jet-cooled 2EH4MC to investigate the electronic/geometrical structures as well as the NRD mechanism. Laser-induced-fluorescence (LIF) spectroscopy gave the well-resolved vibronic structure of the S₁-S₀ transition; UV-UV hole-burning (HB) spectroscopy and density functional theory (DFT) calculations revealed the presence of syn and anti isomers, where the methoxy (-OCH₃) groups orient in opposite directions to each other. Picosecond UV-UV pump-probe spectroscopy revealed the NRD process from the excited singlet (S₁ (¹ππ*)) state occurs at a rate constant of ∼10¹⁰-10¹¹ s^-1, attributed to internal conversion (IC) to the ¹nπ* state. Nanosecond UV-deep UV (DUV) pump-probe spectroscopy identified a transient triplet (T₁ (³ππ*)) state, whose energy (from S₀) and lifetime are 18 400 cm^-1 and 20 ns, respectively. These results demonstrate that the photoisomerization of 2EH4MC includes multistep internal conversions and intersystem crossings, described as "S₁ (trans, ¹ππ*) → ¹nπ* → T₁ (³ππ*) → S₀ (cis)".

Biocompatible UV-absorbing polymer nanoparticles prepared by electron irradiation for application in sunscreen

The electron-irradiated polymer nanoparticles exhibit no significant signs of cytotoxicity and phototoxicity while providing excellent UV-shielding performance.

Investigation of different photochemical reactions of avobenzone derivatives by ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy

Avobenzone (AB) is one of the most widely used UVA sunscreens, and it is viewed as a model compound for studying the photoisomerization process. In recent years, Miranda and co-workers studied photophysical and photochemical reactions of several AB derivatives. However, there is still a gap in the data of these compounds in the ultrafast time region. To get a better understanding of the photophysical and photochemical reaction mechanisms, selected AB derivatives of AB-Me, AB-Pr, AB-Br and AB-Cl were studied using ultrafast transient absorption spectroscopy and density functional theory calculations in the present study. It is unravelled that alkylated substituted AB compounds of AB-Me and AB-Pr exhibit an efficient intersystem crossing with the generation of the corresponding triplet state species, which further leads to the Norrish type II reaction for AB-Pr. On the other hand, AB-Br and AB-Cl prefer photochemical reactions via the singlet state surface. Based on the DFT calculations, the spin-orbit coupling constant between the singlet and triplet states, the energy difference between the singlet and triplet states and the natural transition orbital separations of the studied AB compounds were found to be the leading reasons accounting for their corresponding photochemical activities via singlet and triplet states.

Unravelling photoprotection in microbial natural products

Mycosporine-like amino acids have long been known as a natural form of photoprotection for fungi and cyanobacteria. This review will highlight the key time-resolved experimental and theoretical techniques unravelling their photochemistry and photophysics, and directly link this to their use in commercial skin-care products, namely as sunscreen filters. Three case studies have been selected, each having aided advancement in this burgeoning field of research. We discuss these studies in the context of photoprotection and conclude by evaluating the necessary future steps towards translating the photochemistry and photophysics insight of these nature derived sunscreen filters to commercial application.