Skin phototoxicity of cosmetic formulations containing photounstable and photostable UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate

In Silico Phototoxicity Prediction of Drugs and Chemicals by using Derek Nexus and QSAR Toolbox

Phototoxicity testing is crucial for evaluating the potential harmful effects of pharmaceuticals and chemicals on human skin when exposed to sunlight. Traditional in vivo models involving mice, rats, guinea pigs, as well as in vitro assays such as the 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake phototoxicity assay and methods based on the use of reconstructed human epidermis, have been established for phototoxicity testing. While these approaches are extremely valuable, they are costly in terms of both time and resources. Consequently, in silico approaches based on the use of predictive software tools can offer more rapid and cost-effective phototoxicity screening solutions. With this goal in mind, the current study evaluated two in silico tools - Derek Nexus 6.1.0/Derek Knowledge Base 2020 1.0 (Lhasa Limited, UK) and the QSAR Toolbox (v 4.5) developed by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) - for their capacity to predict the phototoxicity of several substances from diverse classes. Derek Nexus and the QSAR Toolbox were both found to be very useful for predicting the phototoxicity of drugs and other chemicals. Derek Nexus predicted phototoxicity of the compounds, with a sensitivity of 63%, specificity of 93%, Positive Predictive Values of 90% and Negative Predictive Value of 69%, overall accuracy of 77% and balanced accuracy of 78%. The QSAR Toolbox achieved sensitivity of 73%, specificity of 85%, Positive Predictive Value of 85% and Negative Predictive Value of 74%, overall accuracy of 79% and balanced accuracy of 79%. The results show that Derek Nexus and the QSAR Toolbox can be usefully incorporated in the workflow of phototoxicity testing for pharmaceuticals and chemicals.

KoCVAM-led development of phototoxicity alternative test method using reconstructed human epidermis model (KeraSkin™)

Phototoxicity is an acute toxic reaction induced by topical skin exposure to photoreactive chemicals followed by exposure to environmental light and thus chemicals that absorb UV are recommended to be evaluated for phototoxic potential. There are currently three internationally harmonized alternative test methods for phototoxicity. One of them is the in vitro Phototoxicity: RhE Phototoxicity test method (OECD TG498). Korean center for the Validation of Alternative Methods (KoCVAM) developed an in vitro phototoxicity test method using a KeraSkin™ reconstructed human epidermis model (KeraSkin™ Phototoxicity Assay) as a 'me-too' test method of OECD TG498. For the development and optimization of KeraSkin™ Phototoxicity Assay, the following test chemicals were used: 6 proficiency chemicals in OECD TG498 (3 phototoxic and 3 non-phototoxic), 6 reference chemicals in OECD Performance Standard No. 356 (excluding the proficiency test chemicals, 3 phototoxic and 3 non-phototoxic) and 13 additional chemicals (7 phototoxic and 6 non-phototoxic). Based on the test results generated from the test chemicals above, the overall predictive capacity of KeraSkin™ Phototoxicity Assay was calculated. In particular, the assay exhibited 100 % accuracy, 100 % sensitivity, and 100 % specificity. Therefore, it fulfills the requirements to be included as a 'me-too' test method in OECD TG498.

In vitro safety evaluation of (6-methoxy-9-oxo-9H-xanthen-2-yl)methyl (E)-3-(2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)acrylate (K-116) - the novel potential UV filter designed by means of a double chromophore strategy

The use of topical photoprotection is necessary to reduce adverse effects caused by excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Despite the high standards set for UV filters, many of them may contribute to the occurrence of adverse effects. The newly synthesised compound K-116, the (E)-cinnamoyl xanthone derivative, could be an alternative. We conducted extended in vitro safety evaluation of compound K-116. The research included assessment of irritation potential on skin tissue, evaluation of penetration through the epidermis, and assessment of phototoxicity, and mutagenicity. Additionally, the eco-safety of compound K-116 was evaluated, including an examination of its degradation pathway in the Cunninghamella echinulata model, as well as in silico simulation of the toxicity of both the parent compound and its degradation products. The research showed that compound K-116 tested in future application conditions is deprived of skin irritant potential additionally it does not penetrate through the epidermis. Results showed that K-116 concentrate is not phototoxic and not mutagenic. The eco-safety studies showed that it undergoes biodegradation in 27% in Cunninghamella echinulata model. The parent compound and formed metabolite are less toxic than reference UV filters (octinoxate and octocrylene).

BSA Adsorption on Titanium Dioxide Nanoparticle Surfaces for Controlling Their Cellular Uptake in Skin Cells

Nanoparticles (NPs) are continuously being developed for many applications including imaging, biomedicine, and everyday products. It is difficult to avoid contact with NPs such as titanium dioxide (TiO2) NPs, which are widely used in sunscreens. However, the safety of TiO2 NPs for skin contact and inhalation remains controversial. If NPs cannot penetrate the skin, they will be unable to circulate in the bloodstream, accumulate in the body, or cause side effects, ensuring their safety. Therefore, this study aimed to modify TiO2 NP surfaces to inhibit their uptake in skin cells. Inspired by protein corona studies, bovine serum albumin (BSA) was chosen to functionalize TiO2 NP surfaces via physical adsorption. The maximum BSA adsorption occurred at pH 5.0. The physicochemical properties (size, ζ-potential, morphology, ultraviolet (UV) absorption efficiency, and sun protection factor (SPF)) of TiO2-BSA NPs were comparable to those of TiO2 NPs, indicating that these properties did not affect cellular uptake. In the safety evaluation, TiO2 NPs and TiO2-BSA NPs exhibited high biocompatibility with skin cells and no phototoxicity after UVA and UVB irradiation. In the efficacy evaluation, both NPs possessed the same photoprotection abilities, reducing membrane damage and DNA breakage after UVA irradiation. Compared with TiO2 NPs, TiO2-BSA NPs showed substantially reduced skin penetration in Franz diffusion cells (91%) and human immortalized keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells (89%). A qualitative cellular uptake study using transmission electron microscopy and confocal laser scanning microscopy confirmed that TiO2 NPs were more abundant than TiO2-BSA NPs inside the HaCaT cells. These findings indicate that TiO2 surface functionalization with BSA inhibits cellular uptake in skin cells while maintaining safety and UV protection efficacy, which might be extended to other NP-based sunscreens.

Eukaryotic Initiation Factor 4E (eIF4E) as a Target of Anti-Psoriatic Treatment

Eukaryotic initiation factor 4E (eIF4E) has been known to play a critical role in the regulation of gene expression and essential cellular processes, such as proliferation, apoptosis and differentiation. In this study, we explored its role in the pathophysiology of psoriasis. The inhibition of eIF4E by small interfering RNA or briciclib, an eIF4E small molecule inhibitor, downregulated the expression of eIF4E itself and its two complex partners eIF4A and G, as well as other eIFs (eg, eIF1A, eIF2α, eIF3A, eIF3B, eIF5, and eIF6). This inhibition also abolished psoriatic inflammation in both the imiquimod and TGFß mouse model, as well as in a human 3 dimensional-psoriasis tissue model. Downregulation of eIF4E and the other eIFs by application of briciclib (particularly when given topically) was linked to the normalization of cellular proliferation, epidermal hyperplasia, levels of proinflammatory cytokines (eg, TNFα, IL-1b, IL-17, and IL-22), and keratinocyte differentiation markers (eg, KRT16 and FLG). These results demonstrate translational imbalance and underline the crucial role played by eIF4E and other eIFs in the pathophysiology of psoriasis. This work opens up avenues for the development of novel topical antipsoriatic treatment strategies by targeting eIF4E.

Evaluation of the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of an avobenzone derivative

Solar radiation can cause damage to the skin, and the use of sunscreens is one of the main protective measures. However, photounstable ultraviolet (UV) filters can generate photoproducts and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Adding antioxidants, such as resveratrol, to enhance the action of UV filters in sunscreens is an interesting strategy for reducing the damage caused by UV radiation exposure. However, new compounds must have their stability, safety and efficacy guaranteed. Avobenzone, a commonly used UV filter, stands out as a promising candidate for structural modification to enhance its stability. Its molecular hybridization with other UV filters and antioxidants can lead to safer and more effective compounds. In this study, the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of a derivative of avobenzone, hybridized with resveratrol's molecule, was evaluated using in vitro models of cells in monolayer and reconstructed human skin (RHS). Phototoxic potential was assessed using fibroblasts, while the antioxidant activity was measured using the DCFH2-DA probe in HaCaT keratinocytes and in-house RHS. The derivative exhibited UV absorption and demonstrated photostability. It did not exhibit any phototoxic nor photoreactivity potential. Additionally, it was able to photo stabilize a combination of photounstable UV filters, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate, and to reduce their phototoxic potential. In terms of antioxidant activity, the derivative successfully protected against UVA-induced ROS production in the HaCaT keratinocytes model, showing statistical equivalence to the antioxidant control, quercetin (10 μg/mL). Furthermore, experiments conducted in the RHS model demonstrated a significant reduction of 30.7% in ROS generation compared to the irradiated control. This study demonstrated that structural modifications of avobenzone can lead to the development of a broad spectrum (absorbing UVB and UVA II radiation, as well as a portion of the UVA I radiation), non-phototoxic, non-photoreactive and photostable derivative for sunscreen and anti-aging formulations. This derivative enhances protection against oxidative stress induced by UV radiation and improves the effectiveness of sun protection. In addition to the monolayer model, the use of a standardized in-house RHS model was highly relevant for evaluating the effects of UV radiation and skin aging. This model closely mimics human physiological conditions and enables the testing of new compounds and the investigation of protective mechanisms against skin damage.

The Study on Timolol and Its Potential Phototoxicity Using Chemical, In Silico and In Vitro Methods

Timolol (TIM) is a non-selective ß-adrenergic receptor antagonist used orally for the treatment of hypertension and heart attacks, and topically for treating glaucoma; lately, it has also been used in some specific dermatological problems. In the present study, its photodegradation and potential risk of phototoxicity were examined using chemical, in silico and in vitro methods. The UV/VIS irradiated solutions of TIM at pH 1-13 were subjected to LC-UV and UPLC-HRMS/MS analyses showing pseudo first-order kinetics of degradation and several degradation products. The structures of these photodegradants were elucidated by fragmentation path analysis based on high resolution (HR) fragmentation mass spectra, and then used for toxicity evaluation using OSIRIS Property Explorer and Toxtree. Potential risk of phototoxicity was also studied using chemical tests for detecting ROS under UV/VIS irradiation and in vitro tests on BALB/c 3T3 mouse fibroblasts (MTT, NRU and Live/Dead tests). TIM was shown to be potentially phototoxic because of its UV/VIS absorptive properties and generation ROS during irradiation. As was observed in the MTT and NRU tests, the co-treatment of fibroblasts with TIM and UV/VIS light inhibited cell viability, especially when concentrations of the drug were higher than 50 µg/mL.

Assessment of the photoprotective potential and structural characterization of secondary metabolites of Antarctic fungus Arthrinium sp

Interest in Antarctic fungi has grown due to their resilience in harsh environments, suggesting the presence of valuable compounds from its organisms, such as those presenting photoprotective potential, since this environment suffers the most dangerous UV exposure in the world. Therefore, this research aimed to assess the photoprotective potential of compounds from sustainable marine sources, specifically seaweed-derived fungi from Antarctic continent. These studies led to discovery of photoprotective and antioxidant properties of metabolites from Arthrinium sp., an endophytic fungus from Antarctic brown algae Phaeurus antarcticus. From crude extract, fractions A-I were obtained and compounds 1-6 isolated from E and F fractions, namely 3-Hydroxybenzyl alcohol (1), (-)-orthosporin (2), norlichexanthone (3), anomalin B (4), anomalin A (5), and agonodepside B (6). Compounds 1, 2, and 6 were not previously reported in Arthrinium. Fraction F demonstrated excellent absorbance in both UVA and UVB regions, while compound 6 exhibited lower UVB absorbance, possibly due to synergistic effects. Fraction F and compound 6 displayed photostability and were non-phototoxic to HaCaT cells. They also exhibited antioxidant activity by reducing intracellular ROS production induced by UVA in keratinocyte monolayers and reconstructed human skin models (resulting in 34.6% and 30.2% fluorescence reduction) and did not show irritation potential in HET-CAM assay. Thus, both are promising candidates for use in sunscreens. It is noted that Fraction F does not require further purification, making it advantageous, although clinical studies are necessary to confirm its potential applicability for sunscreen formulations.

The frontline of alternatives to animal testing: novel in vitro skin model application in drug development and evaluation

The FDA Modernization Act 2.0 has brought nonclinical drug evaluation into a new era. In vitro models are widely used and play an important role in modern drug development and evaluation, including early candidate drug screening and preclinical drug efficacy and toxicity assessment. Driven by regulatory steering and facilitated by well-defined physiology, novel in vitro skin models are emerging rapidly, becoming the most advanced area in alternative testing research. The revolutionary technologies bring us many in vitro skin models, either laboratory-developed or commercially available, which were all built to emulate the structure of the natural skin to recapitulate the skin's physiological function and particular skin pathology. During the model development, how to achieve balance among complexity, accessibility, capability, and cost-effectiveness remains the core challenge for researchers. This review attempts to introduce the existing in vitro skin models, align them on different dimensions, such as structural complexity, functional maturity, and screening throughput, and provide an update on their current application in various scenarios within the scope of chemical testing and drug development, including testing in genotoxicity, phototoxicity, skin sensitization, corrosion/irritation. Overall, the review will summarize a general strategy for in vitro skin model to enhance future model invention, application, and translation in drug development and evaluation.

Xanthophyll-Rich Extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum Bohlin as New Photoprotective Cosmeceutical Agent: Safety and Efficacy Assessment on In Vitro Reconstructed Human Epidermis Model

The nutritional and health properties of algae make them perfect functional ingredients for nutraceutical and cosmeceutical applications. In this study, the Phaeodactylum tricornutum Bohlin (Phaeodactylaceae), a pleiomorphic diatom commonly found in marine ecosystems, was investigated. The in vitro culture conditions used favoured the fusiform morphotype, characterized by a high accumulation of neutral lipids, as detected by fluorescence microscopy after BODIPY staining. These data were confirmed by HPLC-DAD-APCI-MS/MS analyses carried out on the ethanolic extract (PTE), which showed a high content of xanthophylls (98.99%), and in particular of fucoxanthin (Fx, 6.67 g/100 g PTE). The antioxidant activity (ORAC, FRAP, TEAC and β-carotene bleaching) and photostability of PTE and Fx against UVA and UVB rays were firstly evaluated by in vitro cell-free assays. After this, phototoxicity and photoprotective studies were carried out on in vitro reconstructed human epidermidis models. Results demonstrated that PTE (0.1% Fx) and 0.1% Fx, both photostable, significantly (p < 0.05) reduce oxidative and inflammatory stress markers (ROS, NO and IL-1α), as well as cytotoxicity and sunburn cells induced by UVA and UVB doses simulating the solar radiation, with an excellent safety profile. However, PTE proved to be more effective than Fx, suggesting its effective and safe use in broad-spectrum sunscreens.

A comprehensive analysis of the chemical composition of Fraxinus mandshurica roots based on HPLC-DAD-MS, GC-MS and UPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS

Fraxinus mandshurica is widely distributed around the world, which has significant economic value and pharmacological effects. However, its roots are often overlooked during processing and use. In this study, the preliminary identification of chemical components in F. mandshurica roots was carried out using ultra-performance liquid chromatography coupled with electrospray quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS), and a total of 37 characteristic components were identified, including 13 secoiridoids, 7 lignans, 6 coumarins, 4 flavonoids, 4 phenylethanols, 1 terpenoid and 2 other compounds. Meanwhile, to evaluate the 6 lignans content of F. mandshurica roots, the identification, quantitation analysis and methodological validation were performed by high-performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS), which showed that the concentration range of standard compounds was 0.5-1000 μg/mL. The standard curve correlation coefficients (R²) were all greater than 0.9991, indicating that the linearity of the fitted curves was good. The highest lignan content in F. mandshurica roots was olivil (461.11 μg/g) and the lowest in buddlenol E (11.14 μg/g), and the total lignan content was 764.63 μg/g. The relative standard deviations (RSD, %) of both intra-day and inter-day precision were less than 1.95%. The RSD (%) of the reproducibility and stability experiments was less than 2.91%. The spiked recoveries of the samples were in the range of 98.29-102.62%, and the RSD (%) was in the range of 0.43-1.73, indicating that the method has high accuracy. In addition, a total of 20 volatile components in F. mandshurica roots were identified and quantified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometer (GC-MS) in this study, which laid a solid foundation for the comprehensive development and utilization of F. mandshurica resources.

Enrichment of Cellulose Acetate Nanofibrous Scaffolds with Retinyl Palmitate and Clove Essential Oil for Wound Healing Applications

The use of biocompatible materials and fabrication methods is of particular importance in the development of wound dressings. Cellulose acetate (CA) has excellent properties for wound dressing applications, but it is insufficient for the wound healing process due to its lack of bioactive and antibacterial properties. In this study, CA was electrospun with retinyl palmitate (RP) and clove essential oil (CLV) to fabricate a novel antibacterial and antioxidant biomaterial. The effects of RP and CLV incorporation on the surface morphology, fiber diameter, antioxidant activity, antibacterial activity, cell viability, and release behavior of the fabricated CA mats were investigated. In light of these studies, it was determined that the nanofiber mat, fabricated with a 15% w/v CA polymer concentration, a 1% w/w RP ratio, and a 5% w/w CLV ratio, was biocompatible with L929 fibroblast cells with antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Overall, results showed that this nanofiber offers promise for use as a wound dressing.

A proposed NAM-based tiered phototoxicity testing and human risk assessment framework for agrochemicals

Phototoxicity testing is required by European regulations for agrochemicals with UV/visible molar extinction/absorption coefficient (MEC) higher than 10 L x mol^-1 x cm^-1 in the 290-700 nm wavelength range. Furthermore, regulations identify a need of considering human exposure in case of positive results. While in vitro OECD test guidelines are available for hazard characterisation, there is no guidance on how to utilise positive results in human exposure risk assessments. Our goal was to take a first step towards developing a NAM based tiered testing approach and a framework for non-dietary acute human dermal risk assessment for phototoxicity to agrochemicals. The proposed framework can be divided into a few steps: 1) use the OECD updated MEC values of 1000 L x mol^-1 x cm^-1 as trigger for phototoxicity testing; 2) establish a reference concentration (RfC) from in vitro phototoxicity studies using BMC approach, 3) estimate potential exposure to skin, target organ for phototoxicity, using EFSA exposure models, product specific labels and skin penetration values, and 4) phototoxicity risk assessment; 5) refinement to RfC and/or exposure estimates can be considered. Finally, case studies of a nematicide and an herbicide active substance are provided to illustrate the proposed framework.

Salicin and Hederacoside C-Based Extracts and UV-Absorbers Co-Loaded into Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers with Promoted Skin Antiaging and Hydrating Efficacy

Conventional and herbal active principles can be combined in a beneficial harmony using their best features and compensating for the certain weaknesses of each. The study will answer the question, “how can willow bark extract (Wbe) or ivy leaf extract (Ile) influence the photoprotective, skin permeation and hydration properties of Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers (BLN) loaded with UV-filters and selected herbals?”. BLN-Wbe/Ile-UV-filters were characterized for particle size, zeta potential, thermal behavior, entrapment efficiency and drug loading. The formulated BLN-hydrogels (HG) were subjected to in vitro release and permeation experiments. The in vitro determination of sun protection factors, as well as comparative in vitro photostability tests, rheology behavior and in vivo hydration status have been also considered for hydrogels containing BLN-Ile/Wbe-UV-filters. Photoprotection of BLN-HG against UVA rays was more pronounced as compared with the UVB (UVA-PF reached values of 30, while the maximum SPF value was 13). The in vitro irradiation study demonstrated the photostability of BLN-HG under UV exposure. A noteworthy cosmetic efficacy was detected by in vivo skin test (hydration effect reached 97% for the BLN-Wbe-UV-filters prepared with pomegranate oil). The research novelty, represented by the first-time co-optation of the active herbal extracts (Wbe and Ile) together with two synthetic filters in the same nanostructured delivery system, will provide appropriate scientific support for the cosmetic industry to design novel marketed formulations with improved quality and health benefices.

Safety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties: In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies.

METHODS

The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use.

RESULTS

The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported.

CONCLUSIONS

All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.

Use of alternative test methods in a tiered testing approach to address photoirritation potential of fragrance materials

The safety assessment of fragrance materials for photoirritation utilized by The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials has recently been modified and is described in detail. Materials demonstrating significant absorbance in the ultraviolet and visible light (UV/VIS) range (290-700 nm) may present a concern for photoirritation and require further investigation. If there are no photoirritation data or data are insufficient, then data on read-across materials are considered before a tiered approach for testing begins. The hazard-based 3T3-Neutral Red Uptake (NRU) Phototoxicity Test (OECD TG 432) is used as a first-tier assay; if it predicts photoirritation, it is followed by the reconstructed human epidermis (RhE) phototoxicity assay (OECD TG 498). The RhE phototoxicity assay is used to determine a No Observed Effect Level (NOEL) for photoirritation that is used in a confirmatory human photoirritation test. Data are presented on 108 fragrance materials exhibiting significant UV/VIS absorbance and evaluated in the 3T3-NRU Phototoxicity Assay. Twenty-one materials were predicted to be phototoxic; twenty were evaluated in the RhE Phototoxicity Assay to establish a NOEL. Fourteen materials were then evaluated in a confirmatory human phototoxicity test. The tiered testing approach presented represents a scientifically pragmatic method to minimize the likelihood of photoirritation from fragrance materials.

In Vitro Evaluation of the Photoprotective Potential of Quinolinic Alkaloids Isolated from the Antarctic Marine Fungus Penicillium echinulatum for Topical Use

Marine-derived fungi proved to be a rich source of biologically active compounds. The genus Penicillium has been extensively studied regarding their secondary metabolites and biological applications. However, the photoprotective effects of these metabolites remain underexplored. Herein, the photoprotective potential of Penicillium echinulatum, an Antarctic alga-associated fungus, was assessed by UV absorption, photostability study, and protection from UVA-induced ROS generation assay on human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and reconstructed human skin (RHS). The photosafety was evaluated by the photoreactivity (OECD TG 495) and phototoxicity assays, performed by 3T3 neutral red uptake (3T3 NRU PT, OECD TG 432) and by the RHS model. Through a bio-guided purification approach, four known alkaloids, (-)-cyclopenin (1), dehydrocyclopeptine (2), viridicatin (3), and viridicatol (4), were isolated. Compounds 3 and 4 presented absorption in UVB and UVA-II regions and were considered photostable after UVA irradiation. Despite compounds 3 and 4 showed phototoxic potential in 3T3 NRU PT, no phototoxicity was observed in the RHS model (reduction of cell viability < 30%), which indicates their very low acute photoirritation and high photosafety potential in humans. Viridicatin was considered weakly photoreactive, while viridicatol showed no photoreactivity; both compounds inhibited UVA-induced ROS generation in HaCaT cells, although viridicatol was not able to protect the RHS model against UVA-induced ROS production. Thus, the results highlighted the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of metabolites produced by P. echinulatum which can be considered a new class of molecules for photoprotection, since their photosafety and non-cytotoxicity were predicted using recommended in vitro methods for topical use.

Effects of UV-filter Photostabilizers in the Photostability and Phototoxicity of Vitamin A Palmitate Combined with Avobenzone and Octyl Methoxycinnamate

A challenge for cosmetic and dermatologic products is to develop new high-performance and safer anti-aging products based on new compounds to enhance the stability of retinyl palmitate combined with broad-spectrum UV-filters. Consequently, the aim of this work was to evaluate the effects of three often used avobenzone photostabilizers-ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (EHMCR), tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate (TTMHP) and tris-biphenyl triazine (TBPT)-on the photostability and phototoxicity of the combination of avobenzone (AVO), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and retinyl palmitate (RP). The photostability studies were performed by the exposure of formulations to UVA radiation. The phototoxicity was evaluated by the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxic assay (OECD TG 432). The addition of EHMCR, TBPT, and TTMHP in the formulations, with/or without RP, improved the photostability of AVO and RP, but EHMCR was the most effective in stabilizing RP. In the phototoxicity assay, the combinations AVO-OMC containing or not RP showed phototoxic potential. EHMCR and TTMHP reduced the phototoxicity of the combination AVO-OMC, whereas EHMCR also decreased the phototoxicity of the combination containing RP. Therefore, EHMCR might be used to the photostabilization of formulations of AVO-OMC with/or not RP, while TTMHP can be added to this photounstable UV-filter combination.

Fucoxanthin for Topical Administration, a Phototoxic vs. Photoprotective Potential in a Tiered Strategy Assessed by In Vitro Methods

Fucoxanthin possesses a well-described antioxidant activity that might be useful for human skin photoprotection. However, there is a lack of scientific information regarding its properties when applied onto human skin. Thus, the objective of the present study was to assess the photoprotective and phototoxicity potential of fucoxanthin based on its ultraviolet (UVB 280-320 nm; UVA 320-400 nm) and visible (VIS 400-700 nm) absorption, photostability, phototoxicity in 3T3 mouse fibroblast culture vs. full-thickness reconstructed human skin (RHS), and its ability to inhibit reactive oxygen species formation that is induced by UVA on HaCaT keratinocytes. Later, we evaluated the antioxidant properties of the sunscreen formulation plus 0.5% fucoxanthin onto RHS to confirm its bioavailability and antioxidant potential through the skin layers. The compound was isolated from the alga Desmarestia anceps. Fucoxanthin, despite presenting chemical photo-instability (dose 6 J/cm2: 35% UVA and 21% VIS absorbance reduction), showed acceptable photodegradation (dose 27.5 J/cm2: 5.8% UVB and 12.5% UVA absorbance reduction) when it was added to a sunscreen at 0.5% (w/v). In addition, it increased by 72% of the total sunscreen UV absorption spectra, presenting UV-booster properties. Fucoxanthin presented phototoxic potential in 3T3 fibroblasts (mean photo effect 0.917), but it was non-phototoxic in the RHS model due to barrier function that was provided by the stratum corneum. In addition, it showed a significant inhibition of ROS formation at 0.01% (p < 0.001), in HaCat, and in a sunscreen at 0.5% (w/v) (p < 0.001), in RHS. In conclusion, in vitro results showed fucoxanthin protective potential to the skin that might contribute to improving the photoprotective potential of sunscreens in vivo.

Skin Irritation Testing beyond Tissue Viability: Fucoxanthin Effects on Inflammation, Homeostasis, and Metabolism

UV light catalyzes the ozone formation from air pollutants, like nitrogen oxides. Since ozone reacts with cutaneous sebum lipids to peroxides and, thus, promotes inflammation, tumorigenesis, and aging, even broad-spectrum sunscreens cannot properly protect skin. Meanwhile, xanthophylls, like fucoxanthin, proved their antioxidant and cytoprotective functions, but the safety of their topical application in human cell-based models remains unknown. Aiming for a more detailed insight into the cutaneous fucoxanthin toxicity, we assessed the tissue viability according to OECD test guideline no. 439 as well as changes in inflammation (IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8), homeostasis (EGFR, HSPB1) and metabolism (NAT1). First, we proved the suitability of our 24-well-based reconstructed human skin for irritation testing. Next, we dissolved 0.5% fucoxanthin either in alkyl benzoate or in ethanol and applied both solutions onto the tissue surface. None of the solutions decreased RHS viability below 50%. In contrast, fucoxanthin ameliorated the detrimental effects of ethanol and reduced the gene expression of pro-inflammatory interleukins 6 and 8, while increasing NAT1 gene expression. In conclusion, we developed an organ-on-a-chip compatible RHS, being suitable for skin irritation testing beyond tissue viability assessment. Fucoxanthin proved to be non-irritant in RHS and already showed first skin protective effects following topical application.

Photostability of Topical Agents Applied to the Skin: A Review

Topical treatment modalities have multiple advantages starting with the convenient application and non-invasive treatment and ending with the reduction of the risk of the systemic side effects. Active pharmaceutical substances must reach the desired concentration at the target site in order to produce a particular therapeutic effect. In contrast to other dosage forms topical agents applied to the skin may also be susceptible to photodegradation after application. That is why the knowledge of the susceptibility of these topical drugs to UV irradiation, which may contribute to their degradation or changes in chemical structure, is very important. Active pharmaceutical substances used in dermatology may differ both in chemical structure and photostability. Furthermore, various factors-such as light intensity and wavelength, pH, temperature, concentration-can influence the photodegradation process, which is reflected in particular in kinetics of photodegradation of active pharmaceutical substances as well as both the quantitative and qualitative composition of by-products. The aim of this study was to conduct a systematic review of the photostability of dermatological drugs, as well as of other substances commonly applied topically. The photostability of glucocorticosteroids, retinoids, and antifungal drugs as well as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs applied topically and selected UV-filters have been discussed. Furthermore, the impact of photoinstability on the effectiveness of pharmacotherapy and some photostabilization strategies have been also included.

Spirulina, Palmaria Palmata, Cichorium Intybus, and Medicago Sativa extracts in cosmetic formulations: an integrated approach of in vitro toxicity and in vivo acceptability studies

Background/Aims: The selection of suitable raw materials in the cosmetic research and development is a key point, not only in order to obtain the expected results but also to avoid undesirable side effects. This study evaluated the in vitro toxicity potential of four different plant extracts and their in vivo acceptability studies. Methods: Spirulina, Palmaria palmata, Cichorium intybus and Medicago sativa extracts were analysed alone or in combination and added in cosmetic formulations. The in vitro toxicity evaluation, Hen's Egg Chorioallantoic Membrane Test (HET-CAM) and 3T3 NRU phototoxicity test were performed to evaluate in vitro potential ocular irritation and photo safety, respectively. Twenty subjects were enrolled in the acceptability studies, who were evaluated for the absence of harmful effects of the formulation by visual assessment and by transepidermal water loss, a biophysical technique, for 30 days. Results: HET-CAM assay showed that the studied extracts added to a gel-cream formulation had no irritant potential. In addition, the combination of Palmaria palmata, alfalfa and chicory extracts did not show phototoxic potential in vitro. Acceptability studies showed that the formulation containing the four extracts combined did not provoke any transepidermal water loss (TEWL) alteration, sensory irritation or erythema in the forearms for the period of analysis. Conclusion: The studied active ingredients, alone or in combination, present no cytotoxicity potential and when added to a gel-cream formulation had no irritant potential in vitro. These results predicting no harmful effects were confirmed in the acceptability tests, which showed no alteration on skin barrier function and no report of irritation perception of sign of erythema, suggesting the potential of these extracts for the development of safe cosmetic products.

Using ordered mesoporous silica SBA-15 to limit cutaneous penetration and transdermal permeation of organic UV filters

Avobenzone (AVO), oxybenzone (OXY), and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), are widely used UV filters. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of incorporation in mesoporous silica (SBA-15) on their cutaneous deposition and permeation. Stick formulations containing "free" and "incorporated" UV filters (SF1 and SF2, respectively) were prepared and characterized with respect to their physicochemical, thermal, and functional properties. Cutaneous delivery experiments using porcine skin with quantification by UHPLC-MS/MS, demonstrated that skin deposition of AVO and OXY after application of SF2 for 6 and 12 h was significantly lower than that from SF1 at each time-point (Student t-test, p < 0.05): e.g. OXY permeation across the skin was 30-, 12- and 1.5-fold lower after 6, 12 and 24 h, respectively, following application of SF2. Cutaneous biodistribution profiles of AVO and OXY to 800 µm evidenced a significant decrease in the amounts in the viable epidermis and dermis. In contrast, deposition of the more lipophilic OMC was not significantly different (p ˃ 0.05). In vitro photoprotective efficacy results demonstrated that adsorption/entrapment of UV filters enhanced the sun protection factor by 94%. In conclusion, SBA-15, an innovative mesoporous material, increased photoprotection by UV filters while reducing their cutaneous penetration and transdermal permeation.

Implementation of an in vitro methodology for phototoxicity evaluation in a human keratinocyte cell line

To assess photoxicity, several in vitro methods using different cellular models have been developed for preclinical testing. Over prediction of the in vivo photosafety hazard has been however appointed. Herein, we describe the implementation and validation of an in vitro methodology for phototoxicity evaluation based on the 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test using the HaCaT human keratinocyte cell line, and UVA/UVB radiation. Known positive (5-methoxypsoralen, chlorpromazine, and quinine) and negative (acetyl salicylic acid, hexachlorophene, and sodium lauryl sulphate) controls were tested together with a set of chemical currently used in cosmetic/pharmaceutical formulations. Apart from the advantage of using a cell line of human origin, these cells were generally more resistant to the cytotoxic effects of the test substances relative to the 3T3 mouse fibroblasts when exposed to an UVA irradiation dose of 1.7 mW/cm². Therefore, this HaCaT NRU assay provides a more realistic experimental model that overcomes the over/high sensitivity frequently noted with the 3T3 NRU assay and that is more consistent with the human in vivo situation. Using a more representative method can prevent time-consuming and expensive in vivo testing in both animal models and humans that can significantly delay the clinical development of new chemicals.

UVA and UVB formulation phototoxicity in a three-dimensional human skin model: Photodegradation effect

In vitro three-dimensional human skin models are an innovative alternative to evaluate cytotoxicity and phototoxicity in the cosmetic industry. The aim of this study was to use a skin model to evaluate the potential toxicity of sunscreen formulations with or without exposure to UV radiation. In addition, the toxicity of these formulations was evaluated after exposure to photodegradation. The results showed toxicity with all formulations/conditions tested, including the control formulation, compared to PBS. Cell viability of photodegraded formulations - prior to the phototoxicity radiation process - was higher, indicating that some formulation components were degraded into products with reduced toxicity. The results also indicated that avobenzone was more unstable/toxic than octyl p-methoxycinnamate under the same test conditions. The sunscreens and their formulations were shown to be toxic to skin model cells to some extent, even when not exposed to UV irradiation; however the biological role of this toxicity is unclear. This result shows the importance of testing sunscreen formulations in real in-use conditions. Finally, since we used an in vitro assay based on a human cell model, this non-invasive technique represents a suitable alternative to animal models for phototoxicity tests in general and could have application in screening new sunscreen products.

Phosphodiesterase 4B plays a role in benzophenone-3-induced phototoxicity in normal human keratinocytes

Benzophenone-3 (BP-3), which is extensively used in organic sunscreen, has phototoxic potential in human skin. Phosphodiesterase 4B (PDE4B) has a well-established role in inflammatory responses in immune cells. Currently, it is unknown if PDE4B is associated with BP-3-induced phototoxicity in normal human keratinocytes (NHKs). We found that BP-3 significantly increased PDE4B expression in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated NHKs. Notably, BP-8, a sunscreen agent that shares the 2-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl methanone moiety with BP-3, also upregulated PDE4B expression in NHKs. Upon UVB irradiation, BP-3 upregulated the expression of pro-inflammatory factors, such as prostaglandin endoperoxide synthase 2, tumor necrosis factor α, interleukin 8, and S100A7, and downregulated the level of cornified envelope associated proteins, which are important in the development of the epidermal permeability barrier. The additive effects of UVB-activated BP-3 on the expression of both pro-inflammatory mediators and cornified envelope associated proteins were antagonized by treatment with the PDE4 inhibitor rolipram. The BP-3 and UVB co-stimulation-induced PDE4B upregulation and its association with the upregulation of pro-inflammatory mediators and the downregulation of epidermal differentiation markers were confirmed in a reconstituted three dimensional human epidermis model. Therefore, PDE4B has a role in the mechanism of BP-3-induced phototoxicity.

Photoprotective potential of metabolites isolated from algae-associated fungi Annulohypoxylon stygium

Natural products, or secondary metabolites, obtained from fungal species associated with marine algae have been widely used in sunscreens due to their antioxidant activity and protective potential against solar radiation. The endophytic fungus isolated from Bostrychia radicans algae collected in the Rio Escuro mangrove, São Paulo State, Brazil, Annulohypoxylon stygium (Xylariaceae family) was studied to evaluate the photoprotective potential of its metabolites. The Annulohypoxylon genus can produce secondary metabolites with interesting cytotoxic, antibacterial and antioxidant properties and was never isolated before from a marine alga or had its metabolites studied for UV protection. The fungal culture (code As) extracted with dichloromethane: methanol (2:1) yielded 9 fractions (Asa to Asi) which were submitted to different chromatographic methodologies to obtain pure compounds, and to spectroscopic methodologies to elucidate their structures. Also, a screening was conducted to evaluate the qualitative production of the metabolites, besides the absorption in the UVA/UVB range, their photostability and phototoxicity potential using the 3T3 NRU phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). This study led to the isolation of a novel compound, 3-benzylidene-2-methylhexahydropyrrolo [1,2-α] pyrazine-1,4-dione (1), from fractions Ase3 and Asf3; Ase1 was identified as 1-(1,3-Benzodioxol-5-yl)-1,2-propanediol (2), two metabolites were isolated as diastereomers (1S,2R)-1-phenyl-1,2-propanediol (3) from Asd2 and (1R,2R)-1-phenyl-1,2-propanediol (4) from Asd3, and Ase1 and 1,3-benzodioxole-5-methanol (5) from Asc1. The results obtained showed a great potential source of new molecules to be used as UVB filters in sunscreens, since substances 1-2 presented UVB absorption, had no phototoxic potential and were considered photostable. In conclusion, these compounds can be considered as a potential new class of molecules for photoprotection, since their photosafety and non-cytotoxicity were predicted using in vitro methods for topical use. Meanwhile, further efficacy assays shall be conducted for the establishment of their Sun Protection Factor (SPF). Also, this work provided new information concerning the metabolic profile of A. stygium, since it was possible to obtain two enantiomer compounds (3) and (4). One of them belonged to the same skeleton, but with a methylenedioxy moiety, showing the richest enzymatic pattern for this microorganism.

Photolysis and cellular toxicities of the organic ultraviolet filter chemical octyl methoxycinnamate and its photoproducts

Organic ultraviolet filter chemicals (UVFCs) are the active ingredients used in many sunscreens to protect the skin from UV light; these chemicals have been detected in numerous aquatic environments leading to concerns about how they might affect aquatic organisms and humans. One commonly used organic UVFC is octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), better known by its commercial name, octinoxate. Upon exposure to UV light, OMC degrades rapidly, forming numerous photoproducts, some of which have been previously identified. In this study, we isolated and completely characterized the major products of OMC photolysis, including the two major stable OMC cyclodimers. One of these cyclodimers is a δ-truxinate, resulting from a head-to-head dimerization of two OMC molecules, and the other cyclodimer is an α-truxillate, resulting from a head-to-tail dimerization of two OMC molecules. Additionally, the cellular toxicities of the individual photoproducts were determined; it was found that the parent UVFC, OMC, 4-methoxybenzaldehyde, and two cyclodimers are significantly toxic to cells. The photoproduct 2-ethylhexanol is not cytotoxic, demonstrating that different components of OMC photolysate contribute differently to its cellular toxicity. This study thus provides an enhanced understanding of OMC photolysis and gives toxicity data that can be used to better evaluate OMC as a sunscreen agent.

Naringenin improves the sunscreen performance of vegetable nanocarriers

Naringenin enhances the UV protection, photostability and cell viability of lipid based vegetable nanocarriers.

Pressurized liquid extraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for confirming the photo-induced generation of dioxin-like derivatives and other cosmetic preservative photoproducts on artificial skin

The stability and photochemical transformations of cosmetic preservatives in topical applications exposed to UV-light is a serious but poorly understood problem. In this study, a high throughput extraction and selective method based on pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) coupled to gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was validated and applied to investigate the photochemical transformation of the antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), as well as the antimicrobials triclosan (TCS) and phenyl benzoate (PhBz) in an artificial skin model. Two sets of photodegradation experiments were performed: (i) UV-Irradiation (8W, 254nm) of artificial skin directly spiked with the target preservatives, and (ii) UV-irradiation of artificial skin after the application of a cosmetic cream fortified with the target compounds. After irradiation, PLE was used to isolate the target preservatives and their transformation products. The follow-up of the photodegradation kinetics of the parent preservatives, the identification of the arising by-products, and the monitorization of their kinetic profiles was performed by GC-MS. The photochemical transformation of triclosan into 2,8-dichloro-dibenzo-p-dioxin (2,8-DCDD) and other dioxin-like photoproducts has been confirmed in this work. Furthermore, seven BHT photoproducts, and three benzophenones as PhBz by-products, have been also identified. These findings reveal the first evidences of cosmetic ingredients phototransformation into unwanted photoproducts on an artificial skin model.

In vitro photoprotection and antioxidant capacity of Sphagnum meridense extracts, a novel source of natural sunscreen from the mountains of Colombia

Excessive ultraviolet radiation can cause skin cancer and related health problems in humans. Traditionally, organic and inorganic sunscreens have been used to minimize these effects. Besides, some phenolic compounds present in plants play an important role as photoprotectors. Sphagnum meridense (L), found in Colombia, is continuously exposed to sunlight on high mountain ecosystems. In this work, we evaluated the potential of S. meridense extracts to be applied as UVA-UVB filter in cosmetic formulations and its antioxidant capacity. The mixture acetone-37% hydrochloric acid (1%, v/v) showed the best polyphenol content and UVA-UVB absorption coefficient. These extracts also exhibited promissory UVAPF values, UVA/UVB ratio, critical wavelength (λc) and antioxidant capacity in vitro, comparable to that of conventional sunscreens.

Electronic and spectroscopic properties of avobenzone derivatives attached to ditungsten quadruple bonds

From the reactions between W2(T(i)PB)4, where T(i)PB is 2,4,6-triisopropylbenzoate, and 2 equiv of acid, 4-formylbenzoic acid, HBzald, 4-(3-oxo-3-phenylpropanoyl)benzoic acid, HAvo, or 4-(2,2-difluoro-6-phenyl-2H-1λ(3),3,2λ(4)-dioxaborinin-4-yl)benzoic acid, HAvoBF2, three new compounds W2(T(i)PB)2(Bzald)2, I, W2(T(i)PB)2(Avo)2, II, and W2(T(i)PB)2(AvoBF2)2, III, have been prepared. As solid compounds I and II are blue while compound III is green. Characterization of these compounds has been carried out by means of (1)H NMR, MALDI-TOF MS, steady-state absorption and emission spectroscopies, and femtosecond and nanosecond transient absorption and time-resolved infrared spectroscopies. Compounds I and II have strong metal to ligand charge transfer, MLCT, transitions in the visible region of their spectra while compound III exhibits MLCT absorption in the near-infrared (λmax = 1017 nm). All three have S1 states that have corresponding lifetimes of ∼3-30 ps and are (1)MLCT in character. The triplet states are (3)MLCT with lifetimes in the range 3-10 ns. Density functional theory and time-dependent density functional theory were employed to perform electronic structure calculations in order to aid in the interpretation of these data. The spectroscopic properties of I and II are similar while the planarity of the ligand in III greatly lowers the energy of the MLCT state. The W2 unit enables direct observation of intersystem crossing from the (1)MLCT state to (3)MLCT state via the use of ultrafast spectroscopy.

Skin absorption and human exposure estimation of three widely discussed UV filters in sunscreens--In vitro study mimicking real-life consumer habits

Due to health concerns about safety, three UV-filters (Benzophenone-3, BP3, 10%; Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, EHMC, 10%; Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, BMDBM; 5%) were examined in vitro for absorption on full-thickness pig-ear skin, mimicking human in-use conditions. Kinetic profiles confirmed the rapid permeation of BP3; after the first hour of skin (frozen-stored) exposure to 2 mg/cm(2) (W/O sunscreen; recommended but unrealistic amount), about 0.5% of the applied dose passed into the receptor fluid. The absorption rate of filters was higher from W/O than from O/W emulsions. The fresh/frozen-stored skin permeability coefficient (0.83-0.54) for each UV filter was taken into account. Systemic Exposure Dosage of BP3, EHMC, BMDBM for humans as a consequence of (i) whole-body and (ii) face treatment with 0.5 mg/cm(2) of W/O sunscreen for 6-h skin exposure followed by washing and subsequent 18-h permeation (a realistic scenario) were estimated to be (i) 4744, 1032 and 1036 μg/kg-bw/day, and (ii) 153, 33 and 34 μg/kg-bw/day, respectively. From Margin of Safety for BP3, EHMC and BMDBM (i) 42, 485 and 192 as well as (ii) 1307; 15,151 and 5882, respectively, only the value of 42 (<100) for BP3 indicated a possible health risk. Escalation of a phobia towards all organic UV filters is undesirable.