Ceramides in the skin lipid membranes: length matters

The Sphingosine and Phytosphingosine Ceramide Ratio in Lipid Models Forming the Short Periodicity Phase: An Experimental and Molecular Simulation Study

The lipids located in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), play a crucial role in maintaining the skin barrier function. The primary components of the SC lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs). They form two crystalline lamellar phases: the long periodicity phase (LPP) and the short periodicity phase (SPP). In inflammatory skin conditions like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, there are changes in the SC CER composition, such as an increased concentration of a sphingosine-based CER (CER NS) and a reduced concentration of a phytosphingosine-based CER (CER NP). In the present study, a lipid model was created exclusively forming the SPP, to examine whether alterations in the CER NS:CER NP molar ratio would affect the lipid organization. Experimental data were combined with molecular dynamics simulations of lipid models containing CER NS:CER NP at ratios of 1:2 (mimicking a healthy SC ratio) and 2:1 (observed in inflammatory skin diseases), mixed with CHOL and lignoceric acid as the FFA. The experimental findings show that the acyl chains of CER NS and CER NP and the FFA are in close proximity within the SPP unit cell, indicating that CER NS and CER NP adopt a linear conformation, similarly as observed for the LPP. Both the experiments and simulations indicate that the lamellar organization is the same for the two CER NS:CER NP ratios while the SPP NS:NP 1:2 model had a slightly denser hydrogen bonding network than the SPP NS:NP 2:1 model. The simulations show that this might be attributed to intermolecular hydrogen bonding with the additional hydroxide group on the headgroup of CER NP compared with CER NS.

The Development of Human Ex Vivo Models of Inflammatory Skin Conditions

Traditional research in inflammatory dermatoses has relied on animal models and reconstructed human epidermis to study these conditions. However, these models are limited in replicating the complexity of real human skin and reproducing the intricate pathological changes in skin barrier components and lipid profiles. To address this gap, we developed experimental models that mimic various human inflammatory skin phenotypes. Human ex vivo skins were stimulated with various triggers, creating models for inflammation-induced angiogenesis, irritation response, and chronic T-cell activation. We assessed the alterations in skin morphology, cellular infiltrates, cytokine production, and epidermal lipidomic profiles. In the pro-angiogenesis model, we observed increased mast cell degranulation and elevated levels of angiogenic growth factors. Both the irritant and chronic inflammation models exhibited severe epidermal disruption, along with macrophage infiltration, leukocyte exocytosis, and heightened cytokine levels. Lipidomic analysis revealed minor changes in the pro-angiogenesis model, whereas the chronic inflammation and irritant models exhibited significant decreases in barrier essential ceramide subclasses and a shift toward shorter acyl chain lengths ( Collapse

Key Words

• ex vivo model
• skin barrier
• skin inflammation

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MESH Headings

• Animals
• Humans
• Irritants/pharmacology
• Skin/metabolism
• Epidermis/metabolism
• Skin Diseases/metabolism
• Inflammation/metabolism
• Cytokines/metabolism

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Affiliation(s)

Eddy Hsi Chun Wang L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ 07066, USA
Rebecca Barresi-Thornton L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ 07066, USA
Li-Chi Chen Harvard Medical School, Boston & Beth Israel Lahey Health, Burlington, MA 01805, USA
Maryanne Makredes Senna Harvard Medical School, Boston & Beth Israel Lahey Health, Burlington, MA 01805, USA
I-Chien Liao L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ 07066, USA
Ying Chen L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ 07066, USA
Qian Zheng L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ 07066, USA
Charbel Bouez L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ 07066, USA

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Cytokines and Epidermal Lipid Abnormalities in Atopic Dermatitis: A Systematic Review

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic inflammatory skin disease and presents a major public health problem worldwide. It is characterized by a recurrent and/or chronic course of inflammatory skin lesions with intense pruritus. Its pathophysiologic features include barrier dysfunction, aberrant immune cell infiltration, and alterations in the microbiome that are associated with genetic and environmental factors. There is a complex crosstalk between these components, which is primarily mediated by cytokines. Epidermal barrier dysfunction is the hallmark of AD and is caused by the disruption of proteins and lipids responsible for establishing the skin barrier. To better define the role of cytokines in stratum corneum lipid abnormalities related to AD, we conducted a systematic review of biomedical literature in PubMed from its inception to 5 September 2023. Consistent with the dominant TH2 skewness seen in AD, type 2 cytokines were featured prominently as possessing a central role in epidermal lipid alterations in AD skin. The cytokines associated with TH1 and TH17 were also identified to affect barrier lipids. Considering the broad cytokine dysregulation observed in AD pathophysiology, understanding the role of each of these in lipid abnormalities and barrier dysfunction will help in developing therapeutics to best achieve barrier homeostasis in AD patients.

Skin Barrier Fine Tuning through Low-Temperature Lipid Chain Transition

The lipids in the mammalian stratum corneum (SC) adopt an unusually rigid arrangement to form a vital barrier preventing water loss and harmful environmental impacts. Just above the physiological temperature, a subset of barrier lipids undergoes a phase transition from a very tight orthorhombic to a looser hexagonal arrangement and vice versa. The purpose of this lipid transition in skin physiology is unknown. Permeability experiments on isolated human SC indicated that the transition affects the activation energy for a model compound that prefers lateral movement along lipid layers but not for water or a large polymer that would cross the SC through the pore pathway. The orthorhombic phase content of SC lipids, as determined by infrared spectroscopy, was also modulated by (de)hydration. Spontaneous rearrangement of human SC lipid monolayers into 10 nm higher multilamellar islets at 32-37 °C but not at room temperature was revealed by atomic force microscopy. Our findings add to our knowledge of fundamental skin physiology suggesting a fine temperature- and hydration-controlled switch from fluid lipids (required for lipid barrier assembly) to rigid and tightly packed lipids in the mature SC (necessary for the water and permeability barriers).

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

BACKGROUND

Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol.

RESULTS

Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in β-pleated sheet conformation of keratin.

CONCLUSION

Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

A comparative study of the in vitro permeation of 2-phenoxyethanol in the skin PAMPA model and mammalian skin

For permeation studies that use excised skin, experimental data may show variability associated with the use of biological tissues. As a consequence, achieving reproducible results and data interpretation may be challenging. The skin parallel artificial membrane permeability assay (skin PAMPA) model has been proposed as a high-throughput tool for predicting skin permeation of chemicals. A number of skin cleansing wipe formulations for the diaper area of infants contain 2-phenoxyethanol (PE) as a preservative and cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC) as a surfactant with antimicrobial activity. However, information regarding cutaneous absorption of PE and CPC in the scientific literatures is remarkably limited. The main aim of the present study was to assess the suitability of the skin PAMPA model for prediction of skin permeation of PE. A secondary aim was to investigate the influence of CPC on the dermal absorption of PE. PE (1 % w/w) was prepared in two vehicles, namely propylene glycol (PG) and water-PG (WP). Permeability of PE was investigated in vitro using the skin PAMPA membrane, porcine skin and human skin under finite dose conditions. The highest permeation of PE was observed for the water-PG preparation with 0.2 % w/w of CPC. This finding was consistently observed in the skin PAMPA model and in Franz cell studies using porcine skin and human skin. Permeation of CPC was not detected in the three permeation models. However, permeation of PE increased significantly (p < 0.05) in the presence of CPC compared with formulations without CPC. When comparing the skin PAMPA data and the mammalian skin data for the cumulative amount of PE permeated, the r² values for PAMPA-porcine skin and PAMPA-human skin were 0.84 and 0.89, respectively. The findings in this study demonstrate the capability of the skin PAMPA model to differentiate between various doses and formulations and are encouraging for further applications of this model as a high throughput screening tool in topical formulation development.

Alterations of Epidermal Lipid Profiles and Skin Microbiome in Children With Atopic Dermatitis

PURPOSE

We aimed to investigate epidermal lipid profiles and their association with skin microbiome compositions in children with atopic dermatitis (AD).

METHODS

Specimens were obtained by skin tape stripping from 27 children with AD and 18 healthy subjects matched for age and sex. Proteins and lipids of stratum corneum samples from nonlesional and lesional skin of AD patients and normal subjects were quantified by liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry. Skin microbiome profiles were analyzed using bacterial 16S rRNA sequencing.

RESULTS

Ceramides with nonhydroxy fatty acids (FAs) and C18 sphingosine as their sphingoid base (C18-NS-CERs) N-acylated with C16, C18 and C22 FAs, sphingomyelin (SM) N-acylated with C18 FAs, and lysophosphatidylcholine (LPC) with C16 FAs were increased in AD lesional skin compared to those in AD nonlesional skin and that of control subjects (all P < 0.01). SMs N-acylated with C16 FAs were increased in AD lesional skin compared to control subjects (P < 0.05). The ratio of NS-CERs with long-chain fatty acids (LCFAs) to short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) (C24-32:C14-22), the ratio of LPC with LCFAs to SCFAs (C24-30:C16-22) as well as the ratio of total esterified omega-hydroxy ceramides to total NS-CERs were negatively correlated with transepidermal water loss (rho coefficients = -0.738, -0.528, and -0.489, respectively; all P < 0.001). The proportions of Firmicutes and Staphylococcus were positively correlated to SCFAs including NS ceramides (C14-22), SMs (C17-18), and LPCs (C16), while the proportions of Actinobacteria, Proteobacteria, Bacteroidetes, Corynebacterium, Enhydrobacteria, and Micrococcus were negatively correlated to these SCFAs.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results suggest that pediatric AD skin shows aberrant lipid profiles, and these alterations are associated with skin microbial dysbiosis and cutaneous barrier dysfunction.

Microphase transitions of Langmuir-Blodgett lipid-assembled monolayers with new types of ceramides, ultra-long-chain ceramide and 1-O-acylceramide

HYPOTHESIS

Intercellular lipid lamellae, consisting of ceramide, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, are the primary pathways for substances in the stratum corneum (SC). The microphase transition of lipid-assembled monolayers (LAMs), mimicking an initial layer of the SC, would be affected by new types of ceramides: ceramide with ultra-long chain (CULC) and 1-O-acylceramide (CENP) with three chains in different direction.

EXPERIMENTS

The LAMs were fabricated with varying the mixing ratio of CULC (or CENP) against base ceramide via Langmuir-Blodgett assembly. Surface pressure-area isotherms and elastic modulus-surface pressure plots were obtained to characterize π-dependent microphase transitions. The surface morphology of LAMs was observed by atomic force microscopy.

FINDINGS

The CULCs favored lateral lipid packing, and the CENPs hindered the lateral lipid packing by lying alignment, which was due to their different molecular structures and conformations. The sporadic clusters and empty spaces in the LAMs with CULC were presumably due to the short-range interactions and self-entanglements of ultra-long alkyl chains following the freely jointed chain model, respectively, which was not noticeably observed in the neat LAM films and the LAM films with CENP. The addition of surfactants disrupted the lateral packing of lipids, thus weakening the LAM elasticity. These findings allowed us to understand the role of CULC and CENP in the lipid assemblies and microphase transition behaviors in an initial layer of SC.

Biomimetic Stratum Corneum Liposome Models: Lamellar Organization and Permeability Studies

The stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin, plays a crucial role as a barrier protecting the underlying cells from external stress. The SC comprises three key components: ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol, along with small fractions of cholesterol sulfate and cholesterol ester. In order to gain a deeper understanding about the interdependence of the two major components, CER and FFA, on the organizational, structural, and functional properties of the SC layer, a library of SC lipid liposome (SCLL) models was developed by mixing CER (phytosphingosine or sphingosine), FFA (oleic acid, palmitic acid, or stearic acid), cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Self-assembly of the SC lipids into lamellar phases was first confirmed by small-angle X-ray scattering. Short periodicity and long periodicity phases were identified for SCLLs containing phytosphingosines and sphingosine CERs, respectively. Furthermore, unsaturation in the CER acyl and FFA chains reduced the lipid conformational ordering and packing density of the liposomal bilayer, which were measured by differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The introduction of unsaturation in the CER and/or FFA chains also impacted the lamellar integrity and permeability. This extensive library of SCLL models exhibiting physiologically relevant lamellar phases with defined structural and functional properties may potentially be used as a model system for screening pharmaceuticals or cosmetic agents.

Polymorphism, Nanostructures, and Barrier Properties of Ceramide-Based Lipid Films

Ceramides belong to sphingolipids, an important group of cellular and extracellular lipids. Their physiological functions range from cell signaling to participation in the formation of barriers against water evaporation. In the skin, they are essential for the permeability barrier, together with free fatty acids and cholesterol. We examined the periodical structure and permeability of lipid films composed of ceramides (Cer; namely, N-lignoceroyl 6-hydroxysphingosine, CerNH24, and N-lignoceroyl sphingosine, CerNS24), lignoceric acid (LIG; 24:0), and cholesterol (Chol). X-ray diffraction experiments showed that the CerNH24-based samples form either a short lamellar phase (SLP, d ∼ 5.4 nm) or a medium lamellar phase (MLP, d = 10.63-10.78 nm) depending on the annealing conditions. The proposed molecular arrangement of the MLP based on extended Cer molecules also agreed with the relative neutron scattering length density profiles obtained from the neutron diffraction data. The presence of MLP increased the lipid film permeability to the lipophilic model permeant (indomethacin) relative to the CerNS24-based control samples and the samples that had the same lipid composition but formed an SLP. Thus, the arrangement of lipids in various nanostructures is responsive to external conditions during sample preparation. This polymorphic behavior directly affects the barrier properties, which could also be (patho)physiologically relevant.

Positive Correlation of Triacylglycerols with Increased Chain Length and Unsaturation with ω-O-Acylceramide and Ceramide-NP as Well as Acidic pH in the Skin Surface of Healthy Korean Adults

Triacylglycerols (TG) play an important role in skin homeostasis including the synthesis of ω-O-acylceramides (acylCER) required for skin barrier formation by providing linoleic acid (C18:2n6). However, the overall relationships of TG species with various ceramides (CER) including CER-NP, the most abundant CER, ω-O-acylCER, and another acylCER, 1-O-acylCER in human SC, remain unclear. Therefore, we investigated these relationships and their influence on skin health status in healthy Korean adults. Twelve CER subclasses including two ω-O-acylCER and two 1-O-acylCER were identified with CER-NP consisting of approximately half of the total CER. The ω-O-acylCER species exhibited positive relationships with TG 52:4 and TG 54:2 containing C18:2, while interestingly, 1-O-acylCER containing ester-linked C14:0 and C16:0 demonstrated positive relationships with TG 46-50 including C14:0 and C16:0, respectively. In addition, CER-NP and CER-NH showed positive correlations with TG 52-54 containing C18:2 or C18:3. A lipid pattern with higher levels of CER including CER-NP and ω-O-acylCER with TG 54 and TG with 5-6 double bonds was related to good skin health status, especially with acidic skin pH. Collectively, TG with increased chain length and unsaturation seemed to improve CER content, and profiles such as higher acylCER and CER-NP improved skin health status by fortifying skin barrier structure.

Proline, hydroxyproline, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid derivatives as highly efficient but reversible transdermal permeation enhancers

Overcoming the skin barrier properties efficiently, temporarily, and safely for successful transdermal drug delivery remains a challenge. We synthesized three series of potential skin permeation enhancers derived from natural amino acid derivatives proline, 4-hydroxyproline, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, which is a component of natural moisturizing factor. Permeation studies using in vitro human skin identified dodecyl prolinates with N-acetyl, propionyl, and butyryl chains (Pro2, Pro3, and Pro4, respectively) as potent enhancers for model drugs theophylline and diclofenac. The proline derivatives were generally more active than 4-hydroxyprolines and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid derivatives. Pro2-4 had acceptable in vitro toxicities on 3T3 fibroblast and HaCaT cell lines with IC₅₀ values in tens of µM. Infrared spectroscopy using the human stratum corneum revealed that these enhancers preferentially interacted with the skin barrier lipids and decreased the overall chain order without causing lipid extraction, while their effects on the stratum corneum protein structures were negligible. The impacts of Pro3 and Pro4 on an in vitro transepidermal water loss and skin electrical impedance were fully reversible. Thus, proline derivatives Pro3 and Pro4 have an advantageous combination of high enhancing potency, low cellular toxicity, and reversible action, which is important for their potential in vivo use as the skin barrier would quickly recover after the drug/enhancer administration is terminated.

Topically applied lipid-containing emulsions based on PEGylated emulsifiers: Formulation, characterization, and evaluation of their impact on skin properties ex vivo and in vivo

PEGylated emulsifiers have been largely used in topical formulations for skin research. They have been a continuous study focus in our group as well. According to our previous studies, severe interruptions of the skin barrier were observed with certain types of emulsifiers. To restore the skin barrier function and counteract the effects of emulsifiers, we considered topically delivering lipids into the lipid matrix of the SC. Herein, PEG-20 cetyl ether (C20) -based oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions were developed owing to the stronger interactions of C20 with skin. The lipids containing ceramides (Cers), palmitic acids (PA), and cholesterol with different ratios and combinations were merged into the base emulsion. PEG-40 stearyl ether (S40)-based emulsion was used as a reference as S40 showed negligible impact on SC lipids. The evaluations were conducted ex vivo with confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) regarding the SC lipid, SC thickness, and skin penetration properties. In parallel, the in vivo irritation studies were also implemented including the transepidermal-water-loss (TEWL), skin hydration, and erythema index. The results indicated less SC lipid extraction of topically delivered lipids on ex vivo porcine skin with the addition and ratio of incorporated Cers influencing the extent of formulations counteracting the skin interruption by C20. The ex vivo penetration study showed a similar trend in drug penetration depths. In regards to the in vivo studies, TEWL was demonstrated to be suitable for differentiating the impact on skin barrier properties. The in vivo observations were generally correlated with the ex vivo results. The exact findings in this research can lead us to a better selection of applied lipid components and compositions. Future research will elucidate which type of Cer was predominantly extracted by C20, advancing future formulation development.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Multiscale Simulation of Ternary Stratum Corneum Lipid Mixtures: Effects of Cholesterol Composition

Molecular dynamics simulations of mixtures of the ceramide nonhydroxy-sphingosine (NS), cholesterol, and a free fatty acid are performed to gain molecular-level understanding of the structure of the lipids found in the stratum corneum layer of skin. A new coarse-grained force field for cholesterol was developed using the multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion (MS-IBI) method. The coarse-grained cholesterol force field is compatible with previously developed coarse-grained force fields for ceramide NS, free fatty acids, and water and validated against atomistic simulations of these lipids using the CHARMM force field. Self-assembly simulations of multilayer structures using these coarse-grained force fields are performed, revealing that a large fraction of the ceramides adopt extended conformations, which cannot occur in the single bilayer in water structures typically studied using molecular simulation. Cholesterol fluidizes the membrane by promoting packing defects, and an increase in cholesterol content is found to reduce the bilayer thickness due to an increase in interdigitation of the C₂₄ lipid tails, consistent with experimental observations. Using a reverse-mapping procedure, a self-assembled coarse-grained multilayer system is used to construct an equivalent structure with atomistic resolution. Simulations of this atomistic structure are found to closely agree with experimentally derived neutron scattering length density profiles. Significant interlayer hydrogen bonding is observed in the inner layers of the atomistic multilayer structure that are not found in the outer layers in contact with water or in equivalent bilayer structures. This work highlights the importance of simulating multilayer structures, as compared to the more commonly studied bilayer systems, to enable more appropriate comparisons with multilayer experimental membranes. These results also provide validation of the efficacy of the MS-IBI derived coarse-grained force fields and the framework for multiscale simulation.

ω-O-Acylceramides but not ω-hydroxy ceramides are required for healthy lamellar phase architecture of skin barrier lipids

Epidermal omega-O-acylceramides (ω-O-acylCers) are essential components of a competent skin barrier. These unusual sphingolipids with ultralong N-acyl chains contain linoleic acid esterified to the terminal hydroxyl of the N-acyl, the formation of which requires the transacylase activity of patatin-like phospholipase domain containing 1 (PNPLA1). In ichthyosis with dysfunctional PNPLA1, ω-O-acylCer levels are significantly decreased, and ω-hydroxylated Cers (ω-OHCers) accumulate. Here we explore the role of the linoleate moiety in ω-O-acylCers in the assembly of the skin lipid barrier. Ultrastructural studies of skin samples from neonatal Pnpla1^+/+ and Pnpla1^-/- mice showed that the linoleate moiety in ω-O-acylCers is essential for lamellar pairing in lamellar bodies, as well as for stratum corneum lipid assembly into the long periodicity lamellar phase (LPP). To further study the molecular details of ω-O-acylCer deficiency on skin barrier lipid assembly, we built in vitro lipid models composed of major stratum corneum lipid subclasses containing either ω-O-acylCer (healthy skin model), ω-OHCer (Pnpla1^-/- model), or combination of the two. X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy, and permeability studies indicated that ω-OHCers could not substitute for ω-O-acylCers, although in favorable conditions, they form a medium lamellar phase with a 10.8 nm-repeat distance and permeability barrier properties similar to LPP. In the absence of ω-O-acylCers, skin lipids were prone to separation into two phases with diminished barrier properties. The models combining ω-OHCers with ω-O-acylCers indicated that accumulation of ω-OHCers does not prevent ω-O-acylCer-driven lamellar stacking. These data suggest that ω-O-acylCer supplementation may be a viable therapeutic option in patients with PNPLA1 deficiency.

Ceramide NPs Derived from Natural Oils of Korean Traditional Plants Enhance Skin Barrier Functions and Stimulate Expressions of Genes for Epidermal Homeostasis

BACKGROUND

New ceramide (CER) NPs were prepared by linking fatty acids derived from oils of Korean traditional plants to phytosphingosine(PHS). The oils of Korean traditional plants were extracted from the seeds of Panax ginseng, Camellia sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, Glycine max seoritae and Camellia japonica as sources of diverse fatty acids AIMS: To investigate signaling bioactivities of HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP that was column purified to remove any residual PHS and to evaluate the skin barrier functions of the HP-C. sinensis ceramide NP in human skin.

METHODS

The expressions of genes related with epidermal differentiation was analyzed in vitro by qPCR. Human studies were also performed to determine the skin barrier functions with respect of TEWL and SC cohesion.

RESULTS

The HP-C. sinensis CER NP significantly enhanced the expressions of FLG, CASP14 and INV indicates that the signaling biological activities of oil-derived ceramide NPs could be different depend on the natural oils. The control ceramide, C18-CER NP had no effect on the expression of the three genes. HP-C. sinensis CER NP was selected for the in vivo human studies. Application of 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP cream stimulated significantly faster recovery of a disrupted skin barrier than that of the control C18-CER NP. A significant enhancement of SC cohesion of the skin treated with 0.5% HP-C. sinensis CER NP was also observed.

CONCLUSION

Taken all together, our results clearly demonstrate that HP-C. sinensis CER NP, P. ginseng CER NP and other oil-derived CER NP could be a better choice for developing moisturizers to improve skin barrier function as they more closely mimic the endogenous CER composition of the actual human skin barrier.

What can we learn about amphiphile-membrane interaction from model lipid membranes?

Surface-active amphiphiles find applications in a wide range of areas of industry such as agrochemicals, personal care, and pharmaceuticals. In many of these applications, interaction with cell membranes is a key factor for achieving their purpose. How do amphiphiles interact with lipid membranes? What are their bases for membrane specificity? Which biophysical properties of membranes are susceptible to modulation by amphiphilic membrane-effectors? What aspects of this interaction are important for performing their function? In our work on membrane biophysics over the years, questions like these have arisen and we now share some of our findings and discuss them in this review. This topic was approached focusing on the membrane properties and their alterations rather than on the amphiphile structure requirements for their interaction. Here, we do not aim to provide a comprehensive list of the modes of action of amphiphiles of biological interest but to help in understanding them.

Cerosomes as skin repairing agent: Mode of action studies with a model stratum corneum layer at liquid/air and liquid/solid interfaces

The stratum corneum (SC) is the largest physical barrier of the human body. It protects against physical, chemical and biological damages, and avoids evaporation of water from the deepest skin layers. For its correct functioning, the homeostasis of the SC lipid matrix is fundamental. An alteration of the lipid matrix composition and in particular of its ceramide (CER) fraction can lead to the development of pathologies such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Different studies showed that the direct replenishment of SC lipids on damaged skin had positive effects on the recovery of its barrier properties. In this work, cerosomes, i.e. liposomes composed of SC lipids, have been successfully prepared in order to investigate the mechanism of interaction with a model SC lipid matrix. The cerosomes contain CER[NP], D-CER[AP], stearic acid and cholesterol. In addition, hydrogenated soybean phospholipids have been added to one of the formulations leading to an increased stability at neutral pH. For the mode of action studies, monolayer models at the air-water interface and on solid support have been deployed. The results indicated that a strong interaction occurred between SC monolayers and the cerosomes. Since both systems were negatively charged, the driving force for the interaction must be based on the ability of CERs head groups to establish intermolecular hydrogen bonding networks that energetically prevailed against the electrostatic repulsion. This work proved for the first time the mode of action by which cerosomes exploit their function as skin barrier repairing agents on the SC.

N-Alkylmorpholines: Potent Dermal and Transdermal Skin Permeation Enhancers

Transdermal drug delivery is an attractive non-invasive method offering numerous advantages over the conventional routes of administration. The main obstacle to drug transport is, however, the powerful skin barrier that needs to be modulated, for example, by transdermal permeation enhancers. Unfortunately, there are still only a few enhancers showing optimum properties including low toxicity and reversibility of enhancing effects. For this reason, we investigated a series of new N-alkylmorpholines with various side chains as potential enhancers in an in vitro permeation study, using three model permeants (theophylline, indomethacin, diclofenac). Moreover, electrical impedance, transepidermal water loss, cellular toxicity and infrared spectroscopy measurements were applied to assess the effect of enhancers on skin integrity, reversibility, toxicity and enhancers' mode of action, respectively. Our results showed a bell-shaped relationship between the enhancing activity and the hydrocarbon chain length of the N-alkylmorpholines, with the most efficient derivatives having 10-14 carbons for both transdermal and dermal delivery. These structures were even more potent than the unsaturated oleyl derivative. The best results were obtained for indomethacin, where particularly the C10-14 derivatives showed significantly stronger effects than the traditional enhancer Azone. Further experiments revealed reversibility in the enhancing effect, acceptable toxicity and a mode of action based predominantly on interactions with stratum corneum lipids.

Formation of keto-type ceramides in palmoplantar keratoderma based on biallelic KDSR mutations in patients

Functional skin barrier requires sphingolipid homeostasis. 3-ketodihydrosphingosine reductase or KDSR is a key enzyme of sphingolipid anabolism catalyzing the reduction of 3-ketodihydrosphingosine to sphinganine. Biallelic mutations in the KDSR gene may cause erythrokeratoderma variabilis et progressive-4, later specified as PERIOPTER syndrome, emphasizing a characteristic periorifical and ptychotropic erythrokeratoderma. We report another patient with compound heterozygous mutations in KDSR, born with generalized harlequin ichthyosis, which progressed into palmoplantar keratoderma. To determine whether patient-associated KDSR mutations lead to KDSR substrate accumulation and/or unrecognized sphingolipid downstream products in stratum corneum we analyzed lipids of this and previously published patients with non-identical biallelic mutations in KDSR. In stratum corneum of both patients we identified hitherto unobserved skin ceramides with an unusual keto-type sphingoid base in lesional and non-lesional areas, which accounted for up to 10% of the measured ceramide species. Furthermore, an overall shorter mean chain length of free and bound sphingoid bases was observed-shorter mean chain length of free sphingoid bases was also observed in lesional psoriasis vulgaris SC, but not generally in lesional atopic dermatitis SC. Formation of keto-type ceramides is probably due to a bottle neck in metabolic flux through KDSR and a bypass by ceramide synthases, which highlights the importance of tight intermediate regulation during sphingolipid anabolism and reveals substrate deprivation as potential therapy.

Two- and Three-Dimensional Physical-Chemical Characterization of CER[AP]: A Study of Stereochemistry and Chain Symmetry

The stratum corneum represents the first skin barrier against chemical and physical damage. These unique properties are based on its peculiar lipid composition with ceramides (CERs) as the main protagonists. In this study, the structural and chemical properties of the α-OH phytosphingosine [AP] CER class have been investigated. α-OH CERs are present in the stratum corneum in their d-forms; however, in most model systems the diastereomer mixture with the synthetically produced l-form is used. The d-form is well-known to form a hydrogen bonding network that helps to reduce the permeability of the lipid matrix, while the l-form does not show any hydrogen bonding network formation. In this paper, 2D (monolayers) and 3D (aqueous dispersions) models have been used to thoroughly study the physical-chemical behaviors of CER[AP] diastereomers taking into account how the symmetry of the chain pattern influences the behavior of the molecules. The chains of both diastereomers arrange in an oblique unit cell, but only the d-CER[AP] forms a supramolecular lattice (subgel phase) in both model systems. Interestingly, the chain pattern does not play any role in structure formation since the hydrogen bonding network dictates the packing properties. The 1:1 mixture of the diastereomers phase separates into two domains: one is composed of practically pure d-form and the other one is composed of a mixture of the l-form with a certain amount of d-form molecules.

Increased Levels of Short-Chain Ceramides Modify the Lipid Organization and Reduce the Lipid Barrier of Skin Model Membranes

The skin barrier function is attributed to the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular lipid matrix, which is composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids, and cholesterol. These lipids are organized in two lamellar phases: the short and long periodicity phases (SPP and LPP), respectively. The LPP is considered important for the skin barrier function. High levels of short-chain CERs are observed in various inflammatory skin diseases and have been correlated with barrier dysfunction. In this research, we investigated how the increase in the fraction of the short-chain CER with a nonhydroxy C16 acyl chain linked to a C18 sphingosine base CER NS(C16) at the expense of the physiological chain length CER NS with a C24 acyl chain (CER NS(C24)) impacts the microstructure and barrier function of a lipid model that mimicked certain characteristics of the SC lipid organization. The permeability and lipid organization of the model membranes were compared with that of a control model without CER NS(C16). The permeability increased significantly when ≥50% of CER NS(C24) was substituted with CER NS(C16). Employing biophysical techniques, we showed that the lipid packing density reduced with an increasing proportion of CER NS(C16). Substitution of 75% of CER NS(C24) by CER NS(C16) resulted in the formation of phase-separated lipid domains and alteration of the LPP structure. Using deuterium-labeled lipids enabled simultaneous characterization of the C24 and C16 acyl chains in the lipid models, providing insight into the mechanisms underlying the reduced skin barrier function in diseased skin.

A Lipid Mixture Enriched by Ceramide NP with Fatty Acids of Diverse Chain Lengths Contributes to Restore the Skin Barrier Function Impaired by Topical Corticosteroid

INTRODUCTION

The stratum corneum (SC) is a skin barrier that consists of corneocytes, intercellular lipids, and corneodesmosomes. Ceramides are composed of sphingoid bases linked with various types of fatty acids (FAs), and they are an essential constituent of SC intercellular lipids. Among their subtypes, ceramide NP with a phytosphingosine base is especially important. Most of the previous studies on barrier recovery have focused on a specific ceramide with a single chain FA, not with diverse chain lengths. Skin barrier function is impaired by various factors, including topical corticosteroid.

OBJECTIVE

We evaluated whether a lipid mixture enriched by ceramide NP with FAs of diverse chain lengths (CER [NP]*) can restore the skin barrier function impaired by topical corticosteroid.

METHODS

Twenty-seven healthy adult male volunteers were recruited. Topical corticosteroid was applied on both volar forearms of volunteers. Then, the test cream containing a lipid mixture with CER (NP)* was applied on the left forearm, and a vehicle cream without a lipid mixture was applied on the right forearm of each subject. The functional parameters of the skin barrier were compared before and after the treatment. Epidermal differentiation markers, hyaluronic acid synthase 3 (HAS3), cytokine levels, and the lipid profiles in the SC were analyzed.

RESULTS

The functional parameters of the skin barrier, such as barrier recovery rate, SC integrity, and SC hydration were significantly improved in the test cream-applied site compared to the vehicle cream-applied sites. Filaggrin and HAS3 levels were significantly higher in the sites applied with the test cream. Interleukin (IL)-1α levels were also significantly increased in these sites. IL-2, IL-6, IL-10, and IL-13 levels were significantly decreased in the test cream-applied sites. Lipid analyses showed that C18, C20, and total ceramide NP levels significantly increased in the sites where the test cream was applied. Also, C16, C18, C20, C24, and total ceramide NP levels were significantly elevated in the test cream-applied sites after acute barrier disruption.

CONCLUSION

Our results demonstrate that a lipid mixture enriched by CER (NP)* could recover the barrier function impaired by topical corticosteroid.

Effects of (R)- and (S)-α-Hydroxylation of Acyl Chains in Sphingosine, Dihydrosphingosine, and Phytosphingosine Ceramides on Phase Behavior and Permeability of Skin Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cers) with α-hydroxylated acyl chains comprise about a third of all extractable skin Cers and are required for permeability barrier homeostasis. We have probed here the effects of Cer hydroxylation on their behavior in lipid models comprising the major SC lipids, Cer/free fatty acids (C ₁₆-C ₂₄)/cholesterol, and a minor component, cholesteryl sulfate. Namely, Cers with (R)-α-hydroxy lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer AS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer AdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer AP) were compared to their unnatural (S)-diastereomers and to Cers with non-hydroxylated lignoceroyl chains attached to sphingosine (Cer NS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer NdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer NP). By comparing several biophysical parameters (lamellar organization by X-ray diffraction, chain order, lateral packing, phase transitions, and lipid mixing by infrared spectroscopy using deuterated lipids) and the permeabilities of these models (water loss and two permeability markers), we conclude that there is no general or common consequence of Cer α-hydroxylation. Instead, we found a rich mix of effects, highly dependent on the sphingoid base chain, configuration at the α-carbon, and permeability marker used. We found that the model membranes with unnatural Cer (S)-AS have fewer orthorhombically packed lipid chains than those based on the (R)-diastereomer. In addition, physiological (R)-configuration decreases the permeability of membranes, with Cer (R)-AdS to theophylline, and increases the lipid chain order in model systems with natural Cer (R)-AP. Thus, each Cer subclass makes a distinct contribution to the structural organization and function of the skin lipid barrier.

A novel mineralocorticoid receptor antagonist, 7,3',4'-trihydroxyisoflavone improves skin barrier function impaired by endogenous or exogenous glucocorticoids

Excess glucocorticoids (GCs) with either endogenous or exogenous origins deteriorate skin barrier function. GCs bind to mineralocorticoid and GC receptors (MRs and GRs) in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). Inappropriate MR activation by GCs mediates various GC-induced cutaneous adverse events. We examined whether MR antagonists can ameliorate GC-mediated skin barrier dysfunction in NHEKs, reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), and subjects under psychological stress (PS). In a preliminary clinical investigation, topical MR antagonists improved skin barrier function in topical GC-treated subjects. In NHEKs, cortisol induced nuclear translocation of GR and MR, and GR and MR antagonists inhibited cortisol-induced reductions of keratinocyte differentiation. We identified 7,3',4'-trihydroxyisoflavone (7,3',4'-THIF) as a novel compound that inhibits MR transcriptional activity by screening 30 cosmetic compounds. 7,3',4'-THIF ameliorated the cortisol effect which decreases keratinocyte differentiation in NHEKs and RHE. In a clinical study on PS subjects, 7,3',4'-THIF (0.1%)-containing cream improved skin barrier function, including skin surface pH, barrier recovery rate, and stratum corneum lipids. In conclusion, skin barrier dysfunction owing to excess GC is mediated by MR and GR; thus, it could be prevented by treatment with MR antagonists. Therefore, topical MR antagonists are a promising therapeutic option for skin barrier dysfunction after topical GC treatment or PS.

Acidic pH Is Required for the Multilamellar Assembly of Skin Barrier Lipids In Vitro

Lipid membrane remodeling belongs to the most fundamental processes in the body. The skin barrier lipids, which are ceramide dominant and highly rigid, must attain an unusual multilamellar nanostructure with long periodicity to restrict water loss and prevent the entry of potentially harmful environmental factors. Our data suggest that the skin acid mantle, apart from regulating enzyme activities and keeping away pathogens, may also be a prerequisite for the multilamellar assembly of the skin barrier lipids. Atomic force microscopy on monolayers composed of synthetic or human stratum corneum lipids showed multilayer formation (approximately 10-nm step height) in an acidic but not in a neutral environment. X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and permeability studies showed markedly altered lipid nanostructure and increased water loss at neutral pH compared with that at acidic pH. These findings are consistent with the data on the altered organization of skin lipids and increased transepidermal water loss under conditions such as inadequate skin acidification, for example, in neonates, the elderly, and patients with atopic dermatitis.

Skin lipids in health and disease: A review

Our skin is the interface between us and our environment - a flexible barrier that has evolved for protection, immunity, regulation and sensation. Once regarded as inert, we now know that it is a dynamic environment. Skin lipids are crucial to the structure and function of skin. From deep in the hypodermis, through the ceramide-rich epidermis, to the lipids of the skin surface, there are a vast array of different lipids with important roles to play. This review firstly discusses the lipid composition of human skin and secondly, changes that have been found in skin lipid composition in different skin diseases. Further research into skin lipids facilitated by ever-improving methodologies will no doubt generate new knowledge, paving the way for diagnosis, prevention and treatment of skin disorders and diseases.

Very Long Chain Lipids Favor the Formation of a Homogeneous Phase in Stratum Corneum Model Membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of mammal epidermis, acts as a barrier dictating the rate of absorption of exogenous molecules through the skin, as well as to prevent excessive water loss from the body. The SC consists of protein-rich corneocytes embedded into a complex lipid mixture. The lipid fraction is mainly constituted of an equimolar mixture of ceramides (Cer), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (Chol), forming a solid phase in the intracellular space; this lipid phase is supposed to play a fundamental role in the SC barrier function. An unusual characteristic of this biological membrane is that its lipids generally bear very long acyl chains, with the 24-carbon long ones being the most abundant. In this work, we used Raman microspectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy to study the influence of the acyl chain length on the lipid mixing properties in SC model membranes. Our results revealed that the combination of ceramides and FFA bearing a very long chain is required for the formation of homogeneous lipid mixtures, while lipids with shorter chains (16-carbon and 20-carbon atom long) lead to domains with micrometer dimensions. It is proposed that the biological machinery necessary for acyl chain elongation occurring at the mammalian skin level is required to inhibit lipid phase separation, a critical feature in the proper barrier functioning.

Seasonal variations in the skin parameters of Caucasian women from Central Europe

BACKGROUND

The human skin is greatly affected by external factors such as UV radiation (UVR), ambient temperature (T), and air humidity. These factors oscillate during the year giving rise to the seasonal variations in the skin properties. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of seasons, environmental T, relative and absolute humidity on the skin parameters of Caucasian women, perform a literature review and discuss the possible factors lying behind the found changes.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We measured stratum corneum (SC) hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum level, erythema index, and elasticity parameters R2 and R7 on the forehead and the cheek of Caucasian women from the Czech Republic throughout the year. We also performed a non-systematic literature review focused on the seasonal variations in these skin parameters.

RESULTS

We confirmed a well-documented low SC hydration and sebum production in winter. In spring, we found the lowest TEWL (on the forehead) and the highest SC hydration but also the highest erythema index and the lowest elasticity presumably indicating skin photodamage. For most of the skin parameters, the seasonal variations probably arise due to a complex action of different factors as we extensively discussed.

CONCLUSION

The data about the seasonal variations in the skin parameters are still highly inconsistent and further studies are needed for better understanding of the normal skin changes throughout the year.

The Sphingosine and Acyl Chains of Ceramide [NS] Show Very Different Structure and Dynamics That Challenge Our Understanding of the Skin Barrier

The lipid phase of the uppermost human skin layer is thought to comprise highly rigid lipids in an orthorhombic phase state to protect the body against the environment. By synthesizing sphingosine-d28 deuterated N-lignoceroyl-d-erythro-sphingosine (ceramide [NS]), we compare the structure and dynamics of both chains of that lipid in biologically relevant mixtures using X-ray diffraction, 2 H NMR analysis, and infrared spectroscopy. Our results reveal a substantial fraction of sphingosine chains in a fluid and dynamic phase state at physiological temperature. These findings prompt revision of our current understanding of the skin lipid barrier, where an extended ceramide [NS] conformation is preferred and a possible domain structure is proposed. Mobile lipid chains may be crucial for skin elasticity and the translocation of physiologically important molecules.

Coexistence of Lipid Phases Stabilizes Interstitial Water in the Outer Layer of Mammalian Skin

The lipid matrix in the outer layer of mammalian skin, the stratum corneum, has been previously investigated by multiple biophysical techniques aimed at identifying hydrophilic and lipophilic pathways of permeation. Although consensus is developing over the microscopic structure of the lipid matrix, no molecular-resolution model describes the permeability of all chemical species simultaneously. Using molecular dynamics simulations of a model mixture of skin lipids, the self-assembly of the lipid matrix lamellae has been studied. At higher humidity, the resulting lamellar phase is maintained by partitioning excess water into isolated droplets of controlled size and spatial distribution. The droplets may fuse together to form intralamellar water channels, thereby providing a pathway for the permeation of hydrophilic species. These results reconcile competing data on the outer skin's structure and broaden the scope of molecular-based methods to improve the safety of topical products and to advance transdermal drug delivery.

Behavior of 1-Deoxy-, 3-Deoxy- and N-Methyl-Ceramides in Skin Barrier Lipid Models

Ceramides (Cer) are essential components of the skin permeability barrier. To probe the role of Cer polar head groups involved in the interfacial hydrogen bonding, the N-lignoceroyl sphingosine polar head was modified by removing the hydroxyls in C-1 (1-deoxy-Cer) or C-3 positions (3-deoxy-Cer) and by N-methylation of amide group (N-Me-Cer). Multilamellar skin lipid models were prepared as equimolar mixtures of Cer, lignoceric acid and cholesterol, with 5 wt% cholesteryl sulfate. In the 1-deoxy-Cer-based models, the lipid species were separated into highly ordered domains (as found by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy) resulting in similar water loss but 4–5-fold higher permeability to model substances compared to control with natural Cer. In contrast, 3-deoxy-Cer did not change lipid chain order but promoted the formation of a well-organized structure with a 10.8 nm repeat period. Yet both lipid models comprising deoxy-Cer had similar permeabilities to all markers. N-Methylation of Cer decreased lipid chain order, led to phase separation, and improved cholesterol miscibility in the lipid membranes, resulting in 3-fold increased water loss and 10-fold increased permeability to model compounds compared to control. Thus, the C-1 and C-3 hydroxyls and amide group, which are common to all Cer subclasses, considerably affect lipid miscibility and chain order, formation of periodical nanostructures, and permeability of the skin barrier lipid models.

Permeation enhancers in transdermal drug delivery: benefits and limitations

Introduction: Transdermal drug delivery has several clinical benefits over conventional routes of drug administration. To open the transdermal route for a wider range of drugs, including macromolecules, numerous physical and chemical techniques to overcome the natural low skin permeability have been developed.Areas covered: This review focuses on permeation enhancers (penetration enhancers, percutaneous absorption promoters or accelerants), which are chemicals that increase drug flux through the skin barrier. First, skin components, drug permeation pathways, and drug properties are introduced. Next, we discuss properties of enhancers, their various classifications, structure-activity relationships, mechanisms of action, reversibility and toxicity, biodegradable enhancers, and synergistic enhancer combinations.Expert opinion: Overcoming the remarkable skin barrier properties in an efficient, temporary and safe manner remains a challenge. High permeation-enhancing potency has long been perceived to be associated with toxicity and irritation potential of such compounds, which has limited their further development. In addition, the complexity of enhancer interactions with skin, formulation and drug, along with their vast chemical diversity hampered understanding of their mechanisms of action. The recent development in the field revealed highly potent yet safe enhancers or enhancer combinations, which suggest that enhancer-aided transdermal drug delivery has yet to reach its full potential.

l-Ascorbic acid alkyl esters action on stratum corneum model membranes: An insight into the mechanism for enhanced skin permeation

L-ascorbic acid alkyl esters (ASCn) are lipophilic forms of vitamin C, which act as skin permeation enhancers. We investigated the physical changes induced by incorporating ASCn into stratum corneum (SC) lipid membranes and correlated this with the mechanism proposed in the literature for skin permeation enhancement phenomena. We used lipid monolayers to explore the 2D structure and elasticity of the lipid-enhancer systems. As a comparison, the classic permeation enhancer, oleic acid (OA) and the non-enhancer analogue stearic acid (SA) were analysed. The incorporation of ASCn or OA into SC membranes resulted in more liquid-like films, with a dose-dependent lowering of the compressibility modulus. Brewster angle microscopy (BAM) evidenced partial miscibility of the enhancer with SC lipid components, stabilising the liquid-expanded phase. At the nanoscale, AFM showed that SC lipids form heterogeneous membranes, which underwent structural alterations after incorporating ASCn and fatty acids, such as SA and OA. The lower, cholesterol-enriched phase appears to concentrate the enhancers, whilst the higher ceramide-enriched phase concentrated the non-enhancer SA. Our results and previously reported pieces of evidence indicate a strong pattern in which the rheological properties of SC lipid films are determinant for skin permeation phenomena.

Effects of omega-O-acylceramide structures and concentrations in healthy and diseased skin barrier lipid membrane models

Ceramides (Cers) with ultralong (∼32-carbon) chains and ω-esterified linoleic acid, composing a subclass called omega-O-acylceramides (acylCers), are indispensable components of the skin barrier. Normal barriers typically contain acylCer concentrations of ∼10 mol%; diminished concentrations, along with altered or missing long periodicity lamellar phase (LPP), and increased permeability accompany an array of skin disorders, including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and ichthyoses. We developed model membranes to investigate the effects of the acylCer structure and concentration on skin lipid organization and permeability. The model membrane systems contained six to nine Cer subclasses as well as fatty acids, cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate; acylCer content-namely, acylCers containing sphingosine (Cer EOS), dihydrosphingosine (Cer EOdS), and phytosphingosine (Cer EOP) ranged from zero to 30 mol%. Systems with normal physiologic concentrations of acylCer mixture mimicked the permeability and nanostructure of human skin lipids (with regard to LPP, chain order, and lateral packing). The models also showed that the sphingoid base in acylCer significantly affects the membrane architecture and permeability and that Cer EOP, notably, is a weaker barrier component than Cer EOS and Cer EOdS. Membranes with diminished or missing acylCers displayed some of the hallmarks of diseased skin lipid barriers (i.e., lack of LPP, less ordered lipids, less orthorhombic chain packing, and increased permeability). These results could inform the rational design of new and improved strategies for the barrier-targeted treatment of skin diseases.

Barrier Capability of Skin Lipid Models: Effect of Ceramides and Free Fatty Acid Composition

The skin is an effective barrier that prevents the influx of harmful substances from the environment and the efflux of body fluid. This barrier function is ascribed to the intercellular lipids present in the outermost layer of the skin referred to as the stratum corneum (SC). These lipids are composed mainly of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs). Alterations in the SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment occur in several skin diseases including atopic dermatitis (AD). As the etiology of AD is multifactorial, establishing the relationship between the changes in SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment in the patients remains a challenge. Here, we employed model membrane systems to investigate the contribution of various anomalies in the SC CER and FFA composition observed in AD patients' skin to the barrier dysfunction. Using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate permeation and transepidermal water loss values as markers for barrier function, we determined that the alterations in SC lipid composition contribute to the impaired barrier function in AD patients. By the use of biophysical techniques, we established that the largest reduction in barrier capability was observed in the model with an increased fraction of short-chain FFAs, evident by the decrease in chain packing density. Modulations in the CER subclass composition impacted the lamellar organization while having a smaller effect on the barrier function. These findings provide evidence that AD therapies normalizing the FFA composition are at least as important as normalizing CER composition.

Xenobiotic Receptors and Their Mates in Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common inflammatory skin disease worldwide. It is a chronic, relapsing and pruritic skin disorder which results from epidermal barrier abnormalities and immune dysregulation, both modulated by environmental factors. AD is strongly associated with asthma and allergic rhinitis in the so-called 'atopic march.' Xenobiotic receptors and their mates are ligand-activated transcription factors expressed in the skin where they control cellular detoxification pathways. Moreover, they regulate the expression of genes in pathways involved in AD in epithelial cells and immune cells. Activation or overexpression of xenobiotic receptors in the skin can be deleterious or beneficial, depending on context, ligand and activation duration. Moreover, their impact on skin might be amplified by crosstalk among xenobiotic receptors and their mates. Because they are activated by a broad range of endogenous molecules, drugs and pollutants owing to their promiscuous ligand affinity, they have recently crystalized the attention of researchers, including in dermatology and especially in the AD field. This review examines the putative roles of these receptors in AD by critically evaluating the conditions under which the proteins and their ligands have been studied. This information should provide new insights into AD pathogenesis and ways to develop new therapeutic interventions.

Recent Advances on Topical Application of Ceramides to Restore Barrier Function of Skin

Human skin is the largest organ of the body and is an effective physical barrier keeping it from environmental conditions. This barrier function of the skin is based on stratum corneum, located in the uppermost skin. Stratum corneum has corneocytes surrounded by multilamellar lipid membranes which are composed of cholesterol, free fatty acids and ceramides (CERs). Alterations in ceramide content of the stratum corneum are associated with numerous skin disorders. In recent years, CERs have been incorporated into conventional and novel carrier systems with the purpose of exogenously applying CERs to help the barrier function of the skin. This review provides an overview of the structure, function and importance of CERs to restore the barrier function of the skin following their topical application.

Effect of Ceramide Tail Length on the Structure of Model Stratum Corneum Lipid Bilayers

Lipid bilayers composed of non-hydroxy sphingosine ceramide (CER NS), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs), which are components of the human skin barrier, are studied via molecular dynamics simulations. Since mixtures of these lipids exist in dense gel phases with little molecular mobility at physiological conditions, care must be taken to ensure that the simulations become decorrelated from the initial conditions. Thus, we propose and validate an equilibration protocol based on simulated tempering, in which the simulation takes a random walk through temperature space, allowing the system to break out of metastable configurations and hence become decorrelated from its initial configuration. After validating the equilibration protocol, which we refer to as random-walk molecular dynamics, the effects of the lipid composition and ceramide tail length on bilayer properties are studied. Systems containing pure CER NS, CER NS + CHOL, and CER NS + CHOL + FFA, with the CER NS fatty acid tail length varied within each CER NS-CHOL-FFA composition, are simulated. The bilayer thickness is found to depend on the structure of the center of the bilayer, which arises as a result of the tail-length asymmetry between the lipids studied. The hydrogen bonding between the lipid headgroups and with water is found to change with the overall lipid composition, but is mostly independent of the CER fatty acid tail length. Subtle differences in the lateral packing of the lipid tails are also found as a function of CER tail length. Overall, these results provide insight into the experimentally observed trend of altered barrier properties in skin systems where there are more CERs with shorter tails present.

Probing the interactions among sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides with non- and alpha-hydroxylated acyl chains in skin lipid model membranes

Ceramides (Cers) are significant constituents of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost skin layer responsible for skin barrier properties. Cers are a heterogeneous group of lipids whose mutual interactions are still unclear. To better understand these interactions, we characterized model membranes containing stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and one or more of the following ceramides: N-stearoyl-sphingosine (CerNS), N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerNP) and N-(2-hydroxy)stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerAP). Small angle X-ray scattering and FTIR spectroscopy were used to study lipid arrangement, phase separation and thermotropic behaviour. In the one-Cer systems, the membranes with CerNP showed strong hydrogen bonding and significant phase separation, even after phase transition, while the systems containing CerAP and CerNS had increased lipid miscibility. The multi-Cer systems exhibited different behaviour. In particular, the membrane containing all three Cers was a highly miscible system with narrow one-step phase transition, which, of all the studied samples, occurred at the lowest temperatures. Our results show that even a small variation in Cer structure results in substantially different phase behaviour, which is further affected by the presence of other Cer subclasses. Interestingly, the phase behaviour of the most complex three-Cer system was simpler than that of the others, highlighting the importance of lipid diversity in real SC.

Characterization of human skin equivalents developed at body's core and surface temperatures

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are in vitro developed three‐dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) to a high extent. However, the epidermal lipid biosynthesis, barrier lipid composition, and organization are altered, leading to an elevated diffusion rate of therapeutic molecules. The altered lipid barrier formation in HSEs may be induced by standardized culture conditions, including a culture temperature of 37°C, which is dissimilar to skin surface temperature. Therefore, we aim to determine the influence of culture temperature during the generation of full thickness models (FTMs) on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation. For this purpose, FTMs were developed at conventional core temperature (37°C) or lower temperatures (35°C and 33°C) and evaluated over a time period of 4 weeks. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition was analysed using advanced liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analysis. Our results show that SC layers accumulated at a similar rate irrespective of culture temperature. At reduced culture temperature, an increased epidermal thickness, a disorganization of the lower epidermal cell layers, a delayed early differentiation, and an enlargement of granular cells were detected. Interestingly, melanogenesis was reduced at lower temperature. The ceramide subclass profile, chain length distribution, and level of unsaturated ceramides were similar in FTMs generated at 37°C and 35°C but changed when generated at 33°C, reducing the resemblance to NHS. Herein, we report that culture temperature affects epidermal morphogenesis substantially and to a lesser extent the lipid barrier formation, highlighting the importance of optimized external parameters during reconstruction of skin.

Long and very long lamellar phases in model stratum corneum lipid membranes

Membrane models of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid barrier, either healthy or affected by recessive X-linked ichthyosis, constructed from ceramide [Cer; nonhydroxyacyl sphingosine N-tetracosanoyl-d-erythro-sphingosine (CerNS24) alone or with omega-O-acylceramide N-(32-linoleyloxy)dotriacontanoyl-d-erythro-sphingosine (CerEOS)], FFAs(C16-24), cholesterol (Chol), and sodium cholesteryl sulfate (CholS) were investigated. X-ray diffraction (XRD) revealed a previously unreported polymorphism of the membranes. In the absence of CerEOS, the membranes formed a short lamellar phase (SLP; the repeat distance d = 5.3 nm), a medium lamellar phase (MLP; d = 10.6 nm), or very long lamellar phases (VLLP; d = 15.9 and 21.2 nm). An increased CholS-to-Chol ratio modulated the membrane polymorphism, although the CholS phase separated at ≥ 7 weight% (of total lipids). The presence of CerEOS led to the stable long lamellar phase (LLP) with d = 12.2 nm and prevented VLLP formation. Our XRD results agree well with recently published cryo-electron microscopy data for vitreous skin sections, while also revealing new structures. Thus, lamellar phases with long repeat distances (MLP and VLLP) may be formed in the absence of omega-O-acylceramide, whereas these ultralong Cer species likely stabilize the final SC lipid architecture of LLP by riveting the adjacent lipid layers.

Retention time bracketing for targeted sphingolipidomics by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry

Aim: In complex biological matrixes, many sphingolipids are present with multiple reaction monitoring traces or lack of standard for verification, potentially leading to inaccurate identification and quantitation. Results/methodology: Based on these retention times of available standards, we devised a retention time bracketing approach to identify and predict sphingolipids of the same homologous series. Excellent concordance of predicted and observed retention times (<0.1 min) of sphingolipids were demonstrated. We also showed that many odd- and/or short-chain sphingolipids, commonly used as internal standards, are present in biological matrices including human serum, peritoneal fluid and cells. Conclusion: A retention time table, and a list of appropriate standards are presented, which are expected to be useful resources in targeted sphingolipidomics.