Monounsaturated fatty acids reduce the barrier of stratum corneum lipid membranes by enhancing the formation of a hexagonal lateral packing

Lipid Biomimetic Models as Simple Yet Complex Tools to Predict Skin Permeation and Drug-Membrane Biophysical Interactions

The barrier function of the skin is primarily determined by its outermost layer, the Stratum Corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix composed mainly of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in equimolar proportions and is organised in a complex lamellar structure with different periodicities and lateral packings. This matrix provides a diffusion pathway across the SC for bioactive compounds that are administered to the skin. In this regard, and as the skin administration route has grown in popularity, there has been an increase in the use of lipid mixtures that closely resemble the SC lipid matrix, either for a deeper biophysical understanding or for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This review focuses on a systematic analysis of the main outcomes of using lipid mixtures as SC lipid matrix models for pharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. Thus, a methodical evaluation of the main outcomes based on the SC structure is performed, as well as the main recent developments in finding suitable new in vitro tools for permeation testing based on lipid models.

Skin biomarkers predict the development of food allergy in early life

BACKGROUND

Food allergy (FA) often occurs in early childhood with and without atopic dermatitis (AD). FA can be severe and even fatal. For primary prevention, it is important to find early biomarkers to predict the future onset of FA before any clinical manifestations.

OBJECTIVE

Our aim was to find early predictors of future onset of FA in the stratum corneum (SC).

METHODS

Skin tape strips were collected from the forearm of newborns (n = 129) at age 2 months, before any signs of clinical FA or AD. Children were clinically monitored until they reached age 2 years to confirm the presence or absence of FA and AD. Skin tape strips were subjected to lipidomic analyses by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry and cytokine determination by Meso Scale Discovery U-Plex assay.

RESULTS

Overall, 9 of 129 infants (7.0%) developed FA alone and 9 of 129 infants (7.0%) developed FA concomitantly with AD. In the stratum corneum of children with future FA and concomitant AD and FA, absolute amounts of unsaturated (N24:1)(C18-sphingosine)ceramide and (N26:1)(C18-sphingosine)ceramide and their relative percentages within the molecular group were increased compared with the amounts and percentages in healthy children, with P values ranging from less than .01 to less than .05 according to ANOVA. The children with future AD had normal levels of these molecules. IL-33 level was upregulated in those infants with future FA but not in those with future AD, whereas thymic stromal lymphopoietin was upregulated in those with future AD but not in those with future FA. Logistic regression analysis revealed strong FA predicting power for the combination of dysregulated lipids and cytokines, with an odds ratio reaching 101.4 (95% CI = 5.4-1910.6).

CONCLUSION

Noninvasive skin tape strip analysis at age 2 months can identify infants at risk of FA in the future.

Lesional skin of seborrheic dermatitis patients is characterized by skin barrier dysfunction and correlating alterations in the stratum corneum ceramide composition

Seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease characterized by erythematous papulosquamous lesions in sebum rich areas such as the face and scalp. Its pathogenesis appears multifactorial with a disbalanced immune system, Malassezia driven microbial involvement and skin barrier perturbations. Microbial involvement has been well described in SD, but skin barrier involvement remains to be properly elucidated. To determine whether barrier impairment is a critical factor of inflammation in SD alongside microbial dysbiosis, a cross-sectional study was performed in 37 patients with mild-to-moderate facial SD. Their lesional and non-lesional skin was comprehensively and non-invasively assessed with standardized 2D-photography, optical coherence tomography (OCT), microbial profiling including Malassezia species identification, functional skin barrier assessments and ceramide profiling. The presence of inflammation was established through significant increases in erythema, epidermal thickness, vascularization and superficial roughness in lesional skin compared to non-lesional skin. Lesional skin showed a perturbed skin barrier with an underlying skewed ceramide subclass composition, impaired chain elongation and increased chain unsaturation. Changes in ceramide composition correlated with barrier impairment indicating interdependency of the functional barrier and ceramide composition. Lesional skin showed significantly increased Staphylococcus and decreased Cutibacterium abundances but similar Malassezia abundances and mycobial composition compared to non-lesional skin. Principal component analysis highlighted barrier properties as main discriminating features. To conclude, SD is associated with skin barrier dysfunction and changes in the ceramide composition. No significant differences in the abundance of Malassezia were observed. Restoring the cutaneous barrier might be a valid therapeutic approach in the treatment of facial SD.

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Atopic Dermatitis: Molecular Alterations between Lesional and Non-Lesional Skin Determined Noninvasively by In Vivo Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

Atopic dermatitis (AD)/atopic eczema is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease affecting nearly 14% of the adult population. An important pathogenetic pillar in AD is the disrupted skin barrier function (SBF). The atopic stratum corneum (SC) has been examined using several methods, including Raman microspectroscopy, yet so far, there is no depth-dependent analysis over the entire SC thickness. Therefore, we recruited 21 AD patients (9 female, 12 male) and compared the lesional (LAS) with non-lesional atopic skin (nLAS) in vivo with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Our results demonstrated decreased total intercellular lipid and carotenoid concentrations, as well as a shift towards decreased orthorhombic lateral lipid organisation in LAS. Further, we observed a lower concentration of natural moisturising factor (NMF) and a trend towards increased strongly bound and decreased weakly bound water in LAS. Finally, LAS showed an altered secondary and tertiary keratin structure, demonstrating a more folded keratin state than nLAS. The obtained results are discussed in comparison with healthy skin and yield detailed insights into the atopic SC structure. LAS clearly shows molecular alterations at certain SC depths compared with nLAS which imply a reduced SBF. A thorough understanding of these alterations provides useful information on the aetiology of AD and for the development/control of targeted topical therapies.

Treatment with the Topical Antimicrobial Peptide Omiganan in Mild-to-Moderate Facial Seborrheic Dermatitis versus Ketoconazole and Placebo: Results of a Randomized Controlled Proof-of-Concept Trial

Facial seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is an inflammatory skin disease characterized by erythematous and scaly lesions on the skin with high sebaceous gland activity. The yeast Malassezia is regarded as a key pathogenic driver in this disease, but increased Staphylococcus abundances and barrier dysfunction are implicated as well. Here, we evaluated the antimicrobial peptide omiganan as a treatment for SD since it has shown both antifungal and antibacterial activity. A randomized, patient- and evaluator-blinded trial was performed comparing the four-week, twice daily topical administration of omiganan 1.75%, the comparator ketoconazole 2.00%, and placebo in patients with mild-to-moderate facial SD. Safety was monitored, and efficacy was determined by clinical scoring complemented with imaging. Microbial profiling was performed, and barrier integrity was assessed by trans-epidermal water loss and ceramide lipidomics. Omiganan was safe and well tolerated but did not result in a significant clinical improvement of SD, nor did it affect other biomarkers, compared to the placebo. Ketoconazole significantly reduced the disease severity compared to the placebo, with reduced Malassezia abundances, increased microbial diversity, restored skin barrier function, and decreased short-chain ceramide Cer[NSc34]. No significant decreases in Staphylococcus abundances were observed compared to the placebo. Omiganan is well tolerated but not efficacious in the treatment of facial SD. Previously established antimicrobial and antifungal properties of omiganan could not be demonstrated. Our multimodal characterization of the response to ketoconazole has reaffirmed previous insights into its mechanism of action.

Fatty Acids Profile and the Relevance of Membranes as the Target of Nutrition-Based Strategies in Atopic Dermatitis: A Narrative Review

Recently, the prevalence of atopic dermatitis has increased drastically, especially in urban populations. This multifactorial skin disease is caused by complex interactions between various factors including genetics, environment, lifestyle, and diet. In eczema, apart from using an elimination diet, the adequate content of fatty acids from foods (saturated, monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated fatty acids) plays an important role as an immunomodulatory agent. Different aspects regarding atopic dermatitis include connections between lipid metabolism in atopic dermatitis, with the importance of the MUFA levels, as well as of the omega-6/omega-3 balance that affects the formation of long-chain (C20 eicosanoic and C22 docosaenoic) fatty acids and bioactive lipids from them (such as prostaglandins). Impair/repair of the functioning of epidermal barrier is influenced by these fatty acid levels. The purpose of this review is to drive attention to membrane fatty acid composition and its involvement as the target of fatty acid supplementation. The membrane-targeted strategy indicates the future direction for dermatological research regarding the use of nutritional synergies, in particular using red blood cell fatty acid profiles as a tool for checking the effects of supplementations to reach the target and influence the inflammatory/anti-inflammatory balance of lipid mediators. This knowledge gives the opportunity to develop personalized strategies to create a healthy balance by nutrition with an anti-inflammatory outcome in skin disorders.

Comparative analysis of intercellular lipid organization and composition between psoriatic and healthy stratum corneum

The lipid composition and organization of the stratum corneum (SC) in patients with psoriasis and healthy subjects were compared using X-ray diffraction, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), and ultraperformance liquid chromatography, combined with time-of-flight mass spectrometry(UPLC-TOFMS). In healthy SC (HSC), SC lipids formed two lamellar phases (long and short periodicity phases). Hexagonal and orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing were observed in the lateral lipid organization at 30°C via X-ray diffraction. In HSC, the lamellar phases and the hydrocarbon-chain packing organizations changed with elevated temperatures and finally disappeared. In these behaviors, the high-temperature hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing organization, which appeared above the orthorhombic hydrocarbon-chain packing organization, transformed to the liquid phase at about 90°C in HSC and at about 65°C in psoriatic SC (PSC). Therefore, PSC undergoes a structural transformation at a lower temperature than HSC. Disorder of the hydrocarbon-chain packing of SC lipids was also observed in PSC via FT-IR. In UPLC-TOFMS, free fatty acid (FFA) and ceramide (CER) compositions differed between patients with PSC and HSC. Specifically, the levels of ultra-long chain fatty acids containing CER and phytosphingosine-containing CER were decreased, while those of sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine-containing CER and unsaturated FFA were increased in PSC patients. Furthermore, FFA and CER carbon chain lengths decreased in patients with PSC. These results suggest that the alteration of SC lipid composition and the reduction of carbon chain lengths in PSC lowered the structural transformation temperature, thereby reducing barrier function.

Alterations of Epidermal Lipid Profiles and Skin Microbiome in Children With Atopic Dermatitis

PURPOSE

We aimed to investigate epidermal lipid profiles and their association with skin microbiome compositions in children with atopic dermatitis (AD).

METHODS

Specimens were obtained by skin tape stripping from 27 children with AD and 18 healthy subjects matched for age and sex. Proteins and lipids of stratum corneum samples from nonlesional and lesional skin of AD patients and normal subjects were quantified by liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry. Skin microbiome profiles were analyzed using bacterial 16S rRNA sequencing.

RESULTS

Ceramides with nonhydroxy fatty acids (FAs) and C18 sphingosine as their sphingoid base (C18-NS-CERs) N-acylated with C16, C18 and C22 FAs, sphingomyelin (SM) N-acylated with C18 FAs, and lysophosphatidylcholine (LPC) with C16 FAs were increased in AD lesional skin compared to those in AD nonlesional skin and that of control subjects (all P < 0.01). SMs N-acylated with C16 FAs were increased in AD lesional skin compared to control subjects (P < 0.05). The ratio of NS-CERs with long-chain fatty acids (LCFAs) to short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) (C24-32:C14-22), the ratio of LPC with LCFAs to SCFAs (C24-30:C16-22) as well as the ratio of total esterified omega-hydroxy ceramides to total NS-CERs were negatively correlated with transepidermal water loss (rho coefficients = -0.738, -0.528, and -0.489, respectively; all P < 0.001). The proportions of Firmicutes and Staphylococcus were positively correlated to SCFAs including NS ceramides (C14-22), SMs (C17-18), and LPCs (C16), while the proportions of Actinobacteria, Proteobacteria, Bacteroidetes, Corynebacterium, Enhydrobacteria, and Micrococcus were negatively correlated to these SCFAs.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results suggest that pediatric AD skin shows aberrant lipid profiles, and these alterations are associated with skin microbial dysbiosis and cutaneous barrier dysfunction.

The effect of PPAR isoform (de)activation on the lipid composition in full-thickness skin models

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are 3D-cultured human skin models that mimic many aspects of native human skin (NHS). Although HSEs resemble NHS very closely, the barrier located in the stratum corneum (SC) is impaired. This is caused by an altered lipid composition in the SC of HSEs compared with NHS. One of the most pronounced changes in this lipid composition is a high level of monounsaturation. One key enzyme in this change is stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD1), which catalyses the monounsaturation of lipids. In order to normalize the lipid composition, we aimed to target a group of nuclear receptors that are important regulators in the lipid synthesis. This group of receptors are known as the peroxisome proliferating activating receptors (PPARs). By (de)activating each isoform (PPAR-α, PPAR-δ and PPAR-γ), the PPAR isoforms may have normalizing effects on the lipid composition. In addition, another PPAR-α agonist Wy14643 was included as this supplement demonstrated normalizing effects in the lipid composition in a more recent study. After PPAR (ant)agonists supplementation, the mRNA of downstream targets, lipid synthesis genes and lipid composition were investigated. The PPAR downstream targets were activated, indicating that the supplements reached the keratinocytes to trigger their effect. However, minimal impact was observed on the lipid composition after PPAR isoform (de) activation. Only the highest concentration Wy14643 resulted in strong, but negative effects on CER composition. Although the novel tested modifications did not result in an improvement, more insight is gained on the nuclear receptors PPARs and their effects on the lipid barrier in full-thickness skin models.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Atopic Dermatitis: The Fate of the Fat

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic and relapsing inflammatory skin disease in which dry and itchy skin may develop into skin lesions. AD has a strong genetic component, as children from parents with AD have a two-fold increased chance of developing the disease. Genetic risk loci and epigenetic modifications reported in AD mainly locate to genes involved in the immune response and epidermal barrier function. However, AD pathogenesis cannot be fully explained by (epi)genetic factors since environmental triggers such as stress, pollution, microbiota, climate, and allergens also play a crucial role. Alterations of the epidermal barrier in AD, observed at all stages of the disease and which precede the development of overt skin inflammation, manifest as: dry skin; epidermal ultrastructural abnormalities, notably anomalies of the lamellar body cargo system; and abnormal epidermal lipid composition, including shorter fatty acid moieties in several lipid classes, such as ceramides and free fatty acids. Thus, a compelling question is whether AD is primarily a lipid disorder evolving into a chronic inflammatory disease due to genetic susceptibility loci in immunogenic genes. In this review, we focus on lipid abnormalities observed in the epidermis and blood of AD patients and evaluate their primary role in eliciting an inflammatory response.

Increased Levels of Short-Chain Ceramides Modify the Lipid Organization and Reduce the Lipid Barrier of Skin Model Membranes

The skin barrier function is attributed to the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular lipid matrix, which is composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids, and cholesterol. These lipids are organized in two lamellar phases: the short and long periodicity phases (SPP and LPP), respectively. The LPP is considered important for the skin barrier function. High levels of short-chain CERs are observed in various inflammatory skin diseases and have been correlated with barrier dysfunction. In this research, we investigated how the increase in the fraction of the short-chain CER with a nonhydroxy C16 acyl chain linked to a C18 sphingosine base CER NS(C16) at the expense of the physiological chain length CER NS with a C24 acyl chain (CER NS(C24)) impacts the microstructure and barrier function of a lipid model that mimicked certain characteristics of the SC lipid organization. The permeability and lipid organization of the model membranes were compared with that of a control model without CER NS(C16). The permeability increased significantly when ≥50% of CER NS(C24) was substituted with CER NS(C16). Employing biophysical techniques, we showed that the lipid packing density reduced with an increasing proportion of CER NS(C16). Substitution of 75% of CER NS(C24) by CER NS(C16) resulted in the formation of phase-separated lipid domains and alteration of the LPP structure. Using deuterium-labeled lipids enabled simultaneous characterization of the C24 and C16 acyl chains in the lipid models, providing insight into the mechanisms underlying the reduced skin barrier function in diseased skin.

Effects of ozone on stratum corneum lipid integrity and assembly

The stratum corneum (SC) acts as the main barrier of the skin against exogenous substances (e.g. air pollutants) and against the loss of endogenous substances such as water. The SC consists of keratin-rich dead cells surrounded by crystalline lamellar lipid regions. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs), and cholesterol (CHOL). Tropospheric ozone (O₃) is a potent oxidant compound that reacts instantly with biological molecules such as lipids and proteins. Although it has been reported that O₃ induces biological responses at the cellular level, to the best of our knowledge, there is no information related to the damages O₃ can cause at the level of the SC extracellular lipid matrix. The aim of our work was to investigate which SC lipid subclasses are prone to oxidation when exposed to O₃ and how the changes in chemical structures affect the lipid organization in a stratum corneum substitute (SCS) membrane. Ultimately the barrier properties of the SCS were examined. Our studies reveal that O₃ induces chemical modifications of the unsaturated bonds in CERs and CHOL. The appearance of carbonyl groups at the headgroup level and the removal of the linoleate moiety of omega acylceramides (CER EOS) impact the lamellar organization of the lipid assembly and to a lesser extent the lateral packing of the lipids. Unexpectedly, the modifications improved the barrier function of the SCS.

Human skin equivalents: Impaired barrier function in relation to the lipid and protein properties of the stratum corneum

To advance drug development representative reliable skin models are indispensable. Animal skin as test model for human skin delivery is restricted as their properties greatly differ from human skin. In vitro 3D-human skin equivalents (HSEs) are valuable tools as they recapitulate important aspects of the human skin. However, HSEs still lack the full barrier functionality as observed in native human skin, resulting in suboptimal screening outcome. In this review we provide an overview of established in-house and commercially available HSEs and discuss in more detail to what extent their skin barrier biology is mimicked in vitro focusing on the lipid properties and cornified envelope. Further, we will illustrate how underlying factors, such as culture medium improvements and environmental factors affect the barrier lipids. Lastly, potential improvements in skin barrier function will be proposed aiming at a new generation of HSEs that may replace animal skin delivery studies fully.

Multitargeted Approach for the Optimization of Morphogenesis and Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

In vitro skin tissue engineering is challenging due to the manifold differences between the in vivo and in vitro conditions. Yet, three-dimensional (3D) human skin equivalents (HSEs) are able to mimic native human skin in many fundamental aspects. However, the epidermal lipid barrier formation, which is essential for the functionality of the skin barrier, remains compromised. Recently, HSEs with an improved lipid barrier formation were generated by (i) incorporating chitosan in the dermal collagen matrix, (ii) reducing the external oxygen level to 3%, and (iii) inhibiting the liver X receptor (LXR). In this study, we aimed to determine the synergic effects in full-thickness models (FTMs) with combinations of these factors as single-, double-, and triple-targeted optimization approaches. The collagen–chitosan FTM supplemented with the LXR inhibitor showed improved epidermal morphogenesis, an enhanced lipid composition, and a better lipid organization. Importantly, barrier functionality was improved in the corresponding approach. In conclusion, our leading optimization approach substantially improved the epidermal morphogenesis, barrier formation, and functionality in the FTM, which therefore better resembled native human skin.

Improved organotypic skin model with reduced quantity of monounsaturated ceramides by inhibiting stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1

Full thickness models (FTM) are 3D in vitro skin cultures that resemble the native human skin (NHS) to a great extent. However, the barrier function of these skin models is reduced. The skin barrier is located in the stratum corneum (SC) and consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. In this matrix, deviations in the composition of the FTMs lipid matrix may contribute to the impaired skin barrier when compared to NHS. One of the most abundant changes in lipid composition is an increase in monounsaturated lipids for which stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD-1) is responsible. To improve the SC lipid composition, we reduced SCD-1 activity during the generation of the FTMs. These FTMs were subsequently assessed on all major aspects, including epidermal homeostasis, lipid composition, lipid organization, and barrier functionality. We demonstrate that SCD-1 inhibition was successful and resulted in FTMs that better mimic the lipid composition of FTMs to NHS by a significant reduction in monounsaturated lipids. In conclusion, this study demonstrates an effective approach to normalize SC monounsaturated lipid concentration and may be a valuable tool in further optimizing the FTMs in future studies.

Phase Separation in Lipid Lamellae Result from Ceramide Conformations and Lateral Packing Structure

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum protect the living body from invasion by allergens and pathogens, and also suppresses water evaporation within the body. It is important to understand how differences in the microstructure of intercellular lipids arise. This microstructure is affected by lipid composition. Studies using intercellular lipid models have reported the formation of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities. However, the details of the packing structure characteristics of the two phases observed in these intercellular lipid models are unclear. Our previous report revealed that different short periodicity phases coexist in the N-(α-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER[ADS]), cholesterol (CHOL), and palmitic acid (PA) complex model. In this study, the characteristics of the packing structure of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities, which were observed in the intercellular lipid model (CER[ADS]/CHOL/PA) that we used previously, were adjusted for models with different lipid compositions. The characteristics of the packed and lamellar structures have been determined by temperature-scanning small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray diffraction measurements simultaneously. These differences in lamellar structure were thought to be caused by differences in ceramides (CER) conformation between the hairpin and the V-shape type. The lamellar structure of the V-shaped CER conformation has a low orthorhombic ratio. The above results suggest that an increase in the ratio of CER with the V-shaped structure causes the lamellar structure to have low orthorhombic ratio, thereby contributing to a decrease in the bilayer's barrier function.

High concentration of the ester-linked ω-hydroxy ceramide increases the permeability in skin lipid model membranes

The ester-linked ω-hydroxy acyl chain linked to a sphingosine base referred to as CER EOS is essential for the skin barrier lipid organization. While the majority of the skin lipids form a dense, crystalline structure, associated with low permeability, the unsaturated moiety of CER EOS, (either the linoleate or the oleate chain) exists in a liquid phase at the skin's physiological temperature. Thus, the relationship between CER EOS and barrier function is not entirely comprehended. We studied the permeability and lipid organization in skin lipid models, gradually increasing in CER EOS concentration, mixed with non-hydroxy sphingosine-based ceramide (CER NS) in an equimolar ratio of CERs, cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs) mimicking the ratio in the native skin. A significant increase in the orthorhombic-hexagonal phase transition temperature was recorded when CER EOS concentration was raised to 70 mol% of the total CER content and higher, rendering a higher fraction of lipids in the orthorhombic phase at the expense of the hexagonal phase at physiological temperature. The model's permeability did not differ when CER EOS concentration ranged between 10 and 30% but increased significantly at 70% and higher. Using CER EOS with a perdeuterated oleate chain, it was shown that the fraction of lipids in a liquid phase increased with CER EOS concentration, while the neighboring CERs and FFAs remained in a crystalline state. The increased fraction of the liquid phase therefore, had a stronger effect on permeability than the increased fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic phase.

Arrangement of Ceramides in the Skin: Sphingosine Chains Localize at a Single Position in Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

Understanding the structure of the stratum corneum (SC) is essential to understand the skin barrier process. The long periodicity phase (LPP) is a unique trilayer lamellar structure located in the SC. Adjustments in the composition of the lipid matrix, as in many skin abnormalities, can have severe effects on the lipid organization and barrier function. Although the location of individual lipid subclasses has been identified, the lipid conformation at these locations remains uncertain. Contrast variation experiments via small-angle neutron diffraction were used to investigate the conformation of ceramide (CER) N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (NS) within both simplistic and porcine mimicking LPP models. To identify the lipid conformation of the twin chain CER NS, the chains were individually deuterated, and their scattering length profiles were calculated to identify their locations in the LPP unit cell. In the repeating trilayer unit of the LPP, the acyl chain of CER NS was located in the central and outer layers, while the sphingosine chain was located exclusively in the middle of the outer layers. Thus, for the CER NS with the acyl chain in the central layer, this demonstrates an extended conformation. Electron density distribution profiles identified that the lipid structure remains consistent regardless of the lipid's lateral packing phase, this may be partially due to the anchoring of the extended CER NS. The presented results provide a more detailed insight on the internal arrangement of the LPP lipids and how they are expected to be arranged in healthy skin.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Molecular Dynamics Simulation of Small Molecules Interacting with Biological Membranes

Cell membranes protect and compartmentalise cells and their organelles. The semi-permeable nature of these membranes controls the exchange of solutes across their structure. Characterising the interaction of small molecules with biological membranes is critical to understanding of physiological processes, drug action and permeation, and many biotechnological applications. This review provides an overview of how molecular simulations are used to study the interaction of small molecules with biological membranes, with a particular focus on the interactions of water, organic compounds, drugs and short peptides with models of plasma cell membrane and stratum corneum lipid bilayers. This review will not delve on other types of membranes which might have different composition and arrangement, such as thylakoid or mitochondrial membranes. The application of unbiased molecular dynamics simulations and enhanced sampling methods such as umbrella sampling, metadynamics and replica exchange are described using key examples. This review demonstrates how state-of-the-art molecular simulations have been used successfully to describe the mechanism of binding and permeation of small molecules with biological membranes, as well as associated changes to the structure and dynamics of these membranes. The review concludes with an outlook on future directions in this field.

Development and evaluation of a film-forming system hybridized with econazole-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers for enhanced antifungal activity against dermatophytes

Treatment of skin infection by dermatophytes is still limited, and the application of conventional topical formulations (ointments, creams, etc.) cause patient discomfort due to repeated administration and low efficacy. This study describes the film-forming system (FFS) hybridized with econazole (ECO)-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) for enhanced antifungal activity against dermatophytes. We assumed that the application of NLC could effectively increase the skin permeability of ECO, thereby suppressing the growth of dermatophytes in stratum corneum as well as in epidermis. Meanwhile, ECO-NLC hybrid FFS (ECO-NLC@FFS) could increase the adhesion of ECO-NLC to the skin and prolong the antifungal activity of ECO. First, we optimized ECO-NLC, which shows nanosized particle (199 nm), high encapsulation efficiency (92.5%), and biocompatibility. ECO-NLC@FFS formed a transparent, homogeneous, and hard-to-remove film after topical application. In vitro skin permeation and deposition studies demonstrated that ECO-NLC@FFS showed 1.5-fold higher skin permeation and 3-fold higher ECO deposition in the epidermis layer than a commercial product, which resulted from the nanosized particle and its occlusion effect. And, ex vivo and in vivo antifungal activity studies confirmed that ECO-NLC@FFS improved the skin adhesion of ECO-NLC, thereby allowing ECO to be continuously exposed to the infection sited and reducing the number of applications with a single dose. These results showed that this hybrid system could be a potential for effectively improving the efficacy of antifungal agents and the patient compliance in the treatment of dermatophytes. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: Treatment of skin infection by dermatophytes is difficult due to the inconvenience and low efficacy of conventional topical formulations. Here, we demonstrated the potential of a film-forming system (FFS) hybridized with nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC). First, we confirmed that the enhanced skin permeability of drug was improved by NLC. In addition, the hybridization of NLC with FFS improved the skin adhesion of NLC, allowing the drug to exhibit a sustained release profile and prolong antifungal activity. Given the maximized antifungal activity, this hybrid system can be used as a potential pharmaceutical technique to improve patient convenience and achieve complete treatment of skin infection.

Hyperalphalipoproteinemic scavenger receptor BI knockout mice exhibit a disrupted epidermal lipid barrier

Scavenger receptor class B type I (SR-BI) mediates the selective uptake of cholesteryl esters (CE) from high-density lipoproteins (HDL). An impaired SR-BI function leads to hyperalphalipoproteinemia with elevated levels of cholesterol transported in the HDL fraction. Accumulation of cholesterol in apolipoprotein B (apoB)-containing lipoproteins has been shown to alter skin lipid composition and barrier function in mice. To investigate whether these hypercholesterolemic effects on the skin also occur in hyperalphalipoproteinemia, we compared skins of wild-type and SR-BI knockout (SR-BI^-/-) mice. SR-BI deficiency did not affect the epidermal cholesterol content and induced only minor changes in the ceramide subclasses. The epidermal free fatty acid (FFA) pool was, however, enriched in short and unsaturated chains. Plasma CE levels strongly correlated with epidermal FFA C18:1 content. The increase in epidermal FFA coincided with downregulation of cholesterol and FFA synthesis genes, suggesting a compensatory response to increased flux of plasma cholesterol and FFAs into the skin. Importantly, the SR-BI^-/- epidermal lipid barrier showed increased permeability to ethyl-paraminobenzoic acid, indicating an impairment of the barrier function. In conclusion, increased HDL-cholesterol levels in SR-BI^-/- mice can alter the epidermal lipid composition and lipid barrier function similarly as observed in hypercholesterolemia due to elevated levels of apoB-containing lipoproteins.

Contribution of Palmitic Acid to Epidermal Morphogenesis and Lipid Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

The outermost barrier layer of the skin is the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. Biosynthesis of barrier lipids occurs de novo in the epidermis or is performed with externally derived lipids. Hence, in vitro developed human skin equivalents (HSEs) are developed with culture medium that is supplemented with free fatty acids (FFAs). Nevertheless, the lipid barrier formation in HSEs remains altered compared to native human skin (NHS). The aim of this study is to decipher the role of medium supplemented saturated FFA palmitic acid (PA) on morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, HSEs were developed with 100% (25 μM), 10%, or 1% PA. In HSEs supplemented with reduced PA level, the early differentiation was delayed and epidermal activation was increased. Nevertheless, a similar SC lipid composition in all HSEs was detected. Additionally, the lipid organization was comparable for lamellar and lateral organization, irrespective of PA concentration. As compared to NHS, the level of monounsaturated lipids was increased and the FFA to ceramide ratio was drastically reduced in HSEs. This study describes the crucial role of PA in epidermal morphogenesis and elucidates the role of PA in lipid barrier formation of HSEs.

Barrier Capability of Skin Lipid Models: Effect of Ceramides and Free Fatty Acid Composition

The skin is an effective barrier that prevents the influx of harmful substances from the environment and the efflux of body fluid. This barrier function is ascribed to the intercellular lipids present in the outermost layer of the skin referred to as the stratum corneum (SC). These lipids are composed mainly of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs). Alterations in the SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment occur in several skin diseases including atopic dermatitis (AD). As the etiology of AD is multifactorial, establishing the relationship between the changes in SC lipid composition and barrier function impairment in the patients remains a challenge. Here, we employed model membrane systems to investigate the contribution of various anomalies in the SC CER and FFA composition observed in AD patients' skin to the barrier dysfunction. Using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate permeation and transepidermal water loss values as markers for barrier function, we determined that the alterations in SC lipid composition contribute to the impaired barrier function in AD patients. By the use of biophysical techniques, we established that the largest reduction in barrier capability was observed in the model with an increased fraction of short-chain FFAs, evident by the decrease in chain packing density. Modulations in the CER subclass composition impacted the lamellar organization while having a smaller effect on the barrier function. These findings provide evidence that AD therapies normalizing the FFA composition are at least as important as normalizing CER composition.

The effects of LXR agonist T0901317 and LXR antagonist GSK2033 on morphogenesis and lipid properties in full thickness skin models

Full thickness models (FTMs) are 3D-cultured human skin models that mimic many aspects of native human skin (NHS). However, their stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition differs from NHS causing a reduced skin barrier. The most pronounced differences in lipid composition are a reduction in lipid chain length and increased monounsaturated lipids. The liver-X-receptor (LXR) activates the monounsaturated lipid synthesis via stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD-1). Therefore, the aim was to improve the SC lipid synthesis of FTMs by LXR deactivation. This was achieved by supplementing culture medium with LXR antagonist GSK2033. LXR agonist T0901317 was added for comparison. Subsequently, epidermal morphogenesis, lipid composition, lipid organization and the barrier functionality of these FTMs were assessed. We demonstrate that LXR deactivation resulted in a lipid composition with increased overall chain lengths and reduced levels of monounsaturation, whereas LXR activation increased the amount of monounsaturated lipids and led to a reduction in the overall chain length. However, these changes did not affect the barrier functionality. In conclusion, LXR deactivation led to the development of FTMs with improved lipid properties, which mimic the lipid composition of NHS more closely. These novel findings may contribute to design interventions to normalize SC lipid composition of atopic dermatitis patients.

Unravelling effects of relative humidity on lipid barrier formation in human skin equivalents

Relative humidity (RH) levels vary continuously in vivo, although during in vitro generation of three-dimensional human skin equivalents (HSEs) these remain high (90-95%) to prevent evaporation of the cell-culture medium. However, skin functionality is directly influenced by environmental RH. As the barrier formation in HSEs is different, there is a need to better understand the role of cell-culture conditions during the generation of HSEs. In this study, we aim to investigate the effects of RH on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Therefore, two types of HSEs were developed at 90% or at 60% RH. Assessments were performed to determine epidermal morphogenesis by immunohistochemical analyses, ceramide composition by lipidomic analysis, and lipid organization by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and small-angle X-ray diffraction. We show that reduction of RH mainly affected the uppermost viable epidermal layers in the HSEs, including an enlargement of the granular cells and induction of epidermal cell activation. Neither the composition nor the organization of the lipids in the intercorneocyte space were substantially altered at reduced RH. In addition, lipid processing from glucosylceramides to ceramides was not affected by reduced RH in HSEs as shown by enzyme expression, enzyme activity, and substrate-to-product ratio. Our results demonstrate that RH directly influences epidermal morphogenesis, albeit the in vitro lipid barrier formation is comparable at 90% and 60% RH.

Human skin equivalents cultured under hypoxia display enhanced epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are three-dimensional cell models mimicking characteristics of native human skin (NHS) in many aspects. However, a limitation of HSEs is the altered in vitro morphogenesis and barrier formation. Differences between in vitro and in vivo skin could have been induced by suboptimal cell culture conditions, of which the level of oxygen in vitro (20%) is much higher than in vivo (0.5-8%). Our aim is to study how external oxygen levels affect epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs. In the present study, fibroblast and keratinocyte monocultures, and HSEs were generated under 20% (normoxia) and 3% (hypoxia) oxygen level. In all cultures under hypoxia, expression of hypoxia-inducible factor target genes was increased. Characterization of HSEs generated under hypoxia using immunohistochemical analyses of morphogenesis biomarkers revealed a reduction in epidermal thickness, reduced proliferation, similar early differentiation, and an attenuated terminal differentiation program compared to normoxia, better mimicking NHS. The stratum corneum ceramide composition was studied with liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. Under hypoxia, HSEs exhibited a ceramide composition that more closely resembles that of NHS. Consequently, the lipid organization was improved. In conclusion, epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs reconstructed under hypoxia better mimics that of NHS.

Characterization of human skin equivalents developed at body's core and surface temperatures

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are in vitro developed three‐dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) to a high extent. However, the epidermal lipid biosynthesis, barrier lipid composition, and organization are altered, leading to an elevated diffusion rate of therapeutic molecules. The altered lipid barrier formation in HSEs may be induced by standardized culture conditions, including a culture temperature of 37°C, which is dissimilar to skin surface temperature. Therefore, we aim to determine the influence of culture temperature during the generation of full thickness models (FTMs) on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation. For this purpose, FTMs were developed at conventional core temperature (37°C) or lower temperatures (35°C and 33°C) and evaluated over a time period of 4 weeks. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition was analysed using advanced liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analysis. Our results show that SC layers accumulated at a similar rate irrespective of culture temperature. At reduced culture temperature, an increased epidermal thickness, a disorganization of the lower epidermal cell layers, a delayed early differentiation, and an enlargement of granular cells were detected. Interestingly, melanogenesis was reduced at lower temperature. The ceramide subclass profile, chain length distribution, and level of unsaturated ceramides were similar in FTMs generated at 37°C and 35°C but changed when generated at 33°C, reducing the resemblance to NHS. Herein, we report that culture temperature affects epidermal morphogenesis substantially and to a lesser extent the lipid barrier formation, highlighting the importance of optimized external parameters during reconstruction of skin.

Shedding light on the effects of 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D3 on epidermal lipid barrier formation in three-dimensional human skin equivalents

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are three dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) in many aspects. Despite the manifold similarities to NHS, a restriction in its applications is the altered in vitro lipid barrier formation, which compromises the barrier functionality. This could be induced by suboptimal cell culturing conditions, which amongst others is the diminished activation of the vitamin D receptor (VDR) signalling pathway. The active metabolite of this signalling pathway is 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D₃ (1,25(OH)₂D₃). An interacting role in the formation of the skin barrier has been ascribed to this pathway, although it remains unresolved to which extent this pathway contributes to the (mal-)formation of the epidermal barrier in HSEs. Our aim is to study whether cell culture medium enriched with 1,25(OH)₂D₃ affects epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Addition of 20 nM 1,25(OH)₂D₃ resulted in activation of the VDR signalling pathway by inducing transcription of VDR target genes (CYP24A and LL37) in keratinocyte monocultures and in HSEs. Characterization of HSEs supplemented with 1,25(OH)₂D₃ using immunohistochemical analyses revealed a high similarity in epidermal morphogenesis and in expression of lipid processing enzymes. The barrier formation was assessed using state-of-the art techniques analysing lipid composition and organization. Addition of 1,25(OH)₂D₃ did not alter the composition of ceramides. Additionally, the lateral and lamellar organization of the lipids was similar, irrespective of supplementation. In conclusion, epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs generated in presence or absence of 1,25(OH)₂D₃ leads to a similar morphogenesis and comparable barrier formation in vitro.

Epidermal Lipids: Key Mediators of Atopic Dermatitis Pathogenesis

The skin barrier keeps the 'inside in' and the 'outside out', forming a protective blanket against external insults. Epidermal lipids, such as ceramides, fatty acids (FAs), triglycerides, and cholesterol, are integral components driving the formation and maintenance of the epidermal permeability barrier (EPB). A breach in this lipid barrier sets the platform for the subsequent onset and progression of atopic dermatitis (AD). Such lipids are also important in the normal functioning of organisms, both plants and animals, and in diseases, including cancer. Given the doubling of the number of cases of AD in recent years and the chronic nature of this disorder, here we shed light on the multifaceted role of diverse types of lipid in mediating AD pathogenesis.

New insight into phase behavior and permeability of skin lipid models based on sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides

The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which consist mainly of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol, is fundamental to the skin barrier function. These lipids assemble into two lamellar phases, known as the long and short periodicity phases (LPP and SPP respectively). The LPP is unique in the SC and is considered important for the skin barrier function. Alterations in CER composition, as well as impaired skin barrier function, are commonly observed in diseased skin, yet the understanding of this relationship remains insufficient. In this study, we have investigated the influence of non-hydroxy and α-hydroxy sphingosine-based CERs and their phytosphingosine counterparts on the permeability and lipid organization of model membranes, which were adjusted in composition to enhance formation of the LPP. The permeability was compared by diffusion studies using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate as a model drug, and the lipid organization was characterized by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. Both the sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based CER models formed the LPP, while the latter exhibited a longer LPP repeat distance. The ethyl-p-aminobenzoate flux across the sphingosine-based CER models was higher when compared to the phytosphingosine counterparts, contrary to the fact that the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based CER model had the lowest chain packing density. The unanticipated low permeability of the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based model is probably associated with a stronger headgroup hydrogen bonding network. Our findings indicate that the increased level of sphingosine-based CERs at the expense of phytosphingosine-based CERs, as observed in the diseased skin, may contribute to the barrier function impairment.

Hypercholesterolemia in young adult APOE-/- mice alters epidermal lipid composition and impairs barrier function

Long-term exposure to hypercholesterolemia induces the development of skin xanthoma's characterized by the accumulation of lipid-laden foam cells in humans and in mice. Early skin changes in response to hypercholesterolemia are however unknown. In this study, we investigated the skin lipid composition and associated barrier function in young adult low-density lipoprotein receptor knockout (LDLR^-/-) and apolipoprotein E knockout (APOE^-/-) mice, two commonly used hypercholesterolemic mouse models characterized by the accumulation of apolipoprotein B containing lipoproteins. No differences were observed on cholesterol content in the epidermis in LDLR^-/- mice nor in the more extremely hypercholesterolemic APOE^-/- mice. Interestingly, the free fatty acid profile in the APOE^-/- epidermis shifted towards shorter and unsaturated chains. Genes involved in the synthesis of cholesterol and fatty acids were downregulated in APOE^-/- skin suggesting a compensation for the higher influx of plasma lipids, most probably as cholesteryl esters. Importantly, in vivo transepidermal water loss and permeability studies with murine lipid model membranes revealed that the lipid composition of the APOE^-/- skin resulted in a reduced skin barrier function. In conclusion, severe hypercholesterolemia associated with increased apolipoprotein B containing lipoproteins affects the epidermal lipid composition and its protective barrier.

Quantification of Lipid Phase Order of In Vivo Human Skin Using Attenuated Total Reflection Fourier Transform Infrared (ATR FT-IR) Spectroscopy and Multivariate Curve Resolution Analysis

A new analysis methodology utilizing multivariate curve resolution (MCR) has been successfully combined with Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) measurement of in vivo human skin to resolve lipid phase constituents in the spectra relative to high and low chain ordering. A clinical study was performed to measure lipid order through different depths of stratum corneum of human subjects. Fourier transform IR spectra were collected through the top 10 layers of the skin on four sites on the left and right forearm of 12 individuals. Depth profiling was achieved by tape stripping to remove layers of skin with 10 successive tapes from each site. In vivo ATR FT-IR spectra were collected after removing each tape. Three isolated spectral regions were analyzed, centered around 2850 cm^-1, 1460-1480 cm^-1, and 730 cm^-1, corresponding to stretching, scissoring, and rocking -CH₂ vibrational modes, respectively. Both traditional lipid conformation analysis and MCR analysis were performed on the same spectral data. The lipid order ratio, expressed as the fraction of highly ordered orthorhombic (OR) lipids to the total lipids content (orthorhombic + hexagonal [HEX] + liquid crystal [LC]), was assessed as function of depth. Lipid order depth profiles (LODP) show an increase in order with the stratum corneum depth which can be adequately described by an exponential function for the data obtained in this study. The LODP derived from the three vibrational modes show very similar trends, although the absolute order ratios are somewhat different. The variance of the skin LODP across individuals is much greater than between sites within the same individual. The higher arm sites closer to the elbow on the left and right arm show no statistically significant difference and are recommended for use in comparative studies. The scissoring mode shows the highest sensitivity for determination of LODP value.

Preferential arrangement of lipids in the long-periodicity phase of a stratum corneum matrix model

The lipid matrix of the stratum corneum, the outermost skin layer, consists primarily of ceramides, cholesterol, and FFAs. These lipids form a trilayer long-periodicity phase (LPP) that is unique to this barrier. Knowledge about the LPP is essential in understanding the barrier function. Previous studies of LPP lipid models have identified the position of the major lipid classes and suggested that a large fraction of FFAs and the ceramide acyl chain are present in the central region. However, the precise arrangement, such as lipid subclass mixing (isolated or mixed) and ceramide conformation (extended or hairpin), remains unknown. Here, we deuterated FFAs and the ceramide acyl chain to study CD₂ and CH₂ interactions with Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. The ceramide and FFAs of various chain lengths were not in separate domains but had mixed together. The larger number of CD₂-CD₂ lipid chain interactions in the LPP than in a symmetrical bilayer structure implied that the ceramide had primarily adopted an extended conformation. Shorter FFAs were present in the central region of the LPP. This model explores the biophysical properties of the stratum corneum's LPP to improve the understanding of the barrier function of this layer.

Interactions of dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine with ceramide-based mixtures

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), acts as the natural physical barrier. The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a crystalline lipid matrix consisting of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Although phospholipids are frequently present in topical formulations, no detailed information is reported on the interactions between phospholipids and SC lipids. The aim of this study was to examine the interactions between a model phospholipid, dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC) and synthetic ceramide-based mixtures (referred to as SC lipids). (Perdeuterated) DPPC was mixed with SC lipids and the lipid organization and mixing properties were examined. The studies revealed that DPPC participates in the same lattice as SC lipids thereby enhancing a hexagonal packing. Even at a high DPPC level, no phase separated pure DPPC was observed. When a DPPC containing formulation is applied to the skin surface it must partition into the SC lipid matrix prior to any mixing with the SC lipids. To mimic this, DPPC was applied on top of a SC lipid membrane. DPPC applied in a liquid crystalline state was able to mix with the SC lipids and participated in the same lattice as the SC lipids. However, when DPPC was applied in a rippled gel-state very limited partitioning of DPPC into the SC lipid matrix occurred. Thus, when applied to the skin, liquid crystalline DPPC will have very different interactions with SC lipids than DPPC in a (rippled-)gel phase.

Psoriasis-Associated Late Cornified Envelope (LCE) Proteins Have Antibacterial Activity

Terminally differentiating epidermal keratinocytes express a large number of structural and antimicrobial proteins that are involved in the physical barrier function of the stratum corneum and provide innate cutaneous host defense. Late cornified envelope (LCE) genes, located in the epidermal differentiation complex on chromosome 1, encode a family of 18 proteins of unknown function, whose expression is largely restricted to epidermis. Deletion of two members, LCE3B and LCE3C (LCE3B/C-del), is a widely-replicated psoriasis risk factor that interacts with the major psoriasis-psoriasis risk gene HLA-C*06. Here we performed quantitative trait locus analysis, utilizing RNA-seq data from human skin and found that LCE3B/C-del was associated with a markedly increased expression of LCE3A, a gene directly adjacent to LCE3B/C-del. We confirmed these findings in a 3-dimensional skin model using primary keratinocytes from LCE3B/C-del genotyped donors. Functional analysis revealed that LCE3 proteins, and LCE3A in particular, have defensin-like antimicrobial activity against a variety of bacterial taxa at low micromolar concentrations. No genotype-dependent effect was observed for the inside-out or outside-in physical skin barrier function. Our findings identify an unknown biological function for LCE3 proteins and suggest a role in epidermal host defense and LCE3B/C-del-mediated psoriasis risk.

Altered expression of epidermal lipid bio-synthesis enzymes in atopic dermatitis skin is accompanied by changes in stratum corneum lipid composition

BACKGROUND

The barrier dysfunction in atopic dermatitis (AD) skin correlates with stratum corneum (SC) lipid abnormalities including reduction of global lipid content, shorter ceramide (CER) as well as free fatty acid (FFA) chain length and altered CER subclass levels. However, the underlying cause of these changes in lipid composition has not been fully investigated.

AIM

We investigated whether the expression of CER and FFA biosynthesis enzymes are altered in AD skin compared with control skin and determine whether changes in enzyme expression can be related with changes in lipid composition.

METHODS

In AD patients and controls the expression of enzymes involved in the biosynthesis of FFAs and CERs was analyzed in relation to the SC lipid composition. These enzymes include stearoyl CoA desaturase (SCD), elongase 1 (ELOVL1) and ELOVL6 involved in FFA synthesis and β-glucocerebrosidase (GBA), acid-sphingomyelinase (aSmase), ceramide synthase 3 (CerS3) involved in CER synthesis. In TH2 treated human skin equivalents (AD HSEs) mimicking lesional AD skin, the mRNA expression of these enzymes was investigated.

RESULTS

The results reveal an altered expression of SCD and ELOVL1 in AD lesional skin. This was accompanied by functional changes displayed by increased unsaturated FFAs (SCD) and reduced FFA C22-C28 (ELOVL1) in AD lesional skin. The expression of GBA, aSmase and CerS3 were also altered in lesional skin. The CER composition in AD lesional skin showed corresponding changes such as increased CER AS and NS (aSmase) and decreased esterified ω-hydroxy CERs (CerS3). In support of the results from AD skin, the AD HSEs showed reduced mRNA ELOVL1, GBA and a Smase levels.

CONCLUSION

This study shows that alterations in the expression of key enzymes involved in SC lipid synthesis contribute to changes in the lipid composition in AD skin and inflammation may influence expression of these enzymes.

In vivo confocal Raman microscopic determination of depth profiles of the stratum corneum lipid organization influenced by application of various oils

BACKGROUND

The intercellular lipids (ICL) of stratum corneum (SC) play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier function. The lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in SC is not homogenous, but rather depth-dependent.

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to analyze the influence of the topically applied mineral-derived (paraffin and petrolatum) and plant-derived (almond oil and jojoba oil) oils on the depth-dependent ICL profile ordering of the SC in vivo.

METHOD

Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM), a unique tool to analyze the depth profile of the ICL structure non-invasively, is employed to investigate the interaction between oils and human SC in vivo.

RESULTS

The results show that the response of SC to oils' permeation varies in the depths. All oils remain in the upper layers of the SC (0-20% of SC thickness) and show predominated differences of ICL ordering from intact skin. In these depths, skin treated with plant-derived oils shows more disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL than intact skin (p<0.05). In the intermediate layers of SC (30-50% of SC thickness), the oils do not influence the lateral packing order of SC ICL (p>0.1), except plant-derived oils at the depth 30% of SC thickness. In the deeper layers of the SC (60-100% of SC thickness), no difference between ICL lateral packing order of the oil-treated and intact skin can be observed, except that at the depths of 70-90% of the SC thickness, where slight changes with more disorder states are measured for plant-derived oil treated skin (p<0.1), which could be explained by the penetration of free fatty acid fractions in the deep-located SC areas.

CONCLUSION

Both oil types remain in the superficial layers of the SC (0-20% of the SC thickness). Skin treated with mineral- and plant-derived oils shows significantly higher disordered lateral and lamellar packing order of ICL in these layers of the SC compared to intact skin. Plant-derived oils significantly changed the ICL ordering in the depths of 30% and 70-90% of the SC thickness, which is likely due to the penetration of free fatty acids in the deeper layers of the SC.

Production of Rare Phyto-Ceramides from Abundant Food Plant Residues

Ceramides (Cers) are major components of the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, and play a crucial role in permeability barrier functions. Alterations in Cer composition causing skin diseases are compensated with semisynthetic skin-identical Cers. Plants constitute new resources for Cer production as they contain glucosylceramides (GluCers) as major components. GluCers were purified from industrial waste plant materials, apple pomace (Malus domestica), wheat germs (Triticum sp.), and coffee grounds (Coffea sp.), with GluCer contents of 28.9 mg, 33.7 mg, and 4.4 mg per 100 g of plant material. Forty-five species of GluCers (1-45) were identified with different sphingoid bases, saturated or monounsaturated α-hydroxy fatty acids (C15-28), and β-glucose as polar headgroup. Three main GluCers were hydrolyzed by a recombinant human glucocerebrosidase to produce phyto-Cers (46-48). These studies showed that rare and expensive phyto-Cers can be obtained from industrial food plant residues.

Effect of monoglycerides and fatty acids on a ceramide bilayer

Monoglycerides and unsaturated fatty acids, naturally present in trace amounts in the stratum corneum (top layer of skin) lipid matrix, are commonly used in pharmaceutical, cosmetic and health care formulations. However, a detailed molecular understanding of how the oil additives get incorporated into the skin lipids from topical application and, once incorporated, how they affect the properties and integrity of the lipid matrix remains unexplored. Using ceramide 2 bilayers as skin lipid surrogates, we use a series of molecular dynamics simulations with six different natural oil ingredients at multiple concentrations to investigate the effect of the oils on the properties and stability of the bilayers. The six oils: monoolein, monostearin, monoelaidin, oleic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid - all having the same length of the alkyl chain, C18, but a varying degree of saturation, allow us to systematically address the effect of unsaturation in the additives. Our results show that at low oil concentration (∼5%) the mixed bilayers containing any of the oils and ceramide 2 (CER2) become more rigid than pure CER2 bilayers due to more efficient lipid packing. Better packing also results in the formation of larger numbers of hydrogen bonds between the lipids, which occurs at the expense of the hydrogen bonds between lipids and water. The mixed bilayers with saturated or trans-unsaturated oils remain stable over the whole range of oil concentration. In contrast, the presence of the oils with at least one cis-double bond leads to bilayer instability and complete loss of bilayer structure at the oil content of about 50-65%. Two cis-double bonds in the lipid tail induce bilayer disruption at even lower concentration (∼30%). The mixed bilayers remain in the gel phase (without melting to a fluid phase) until the phase transition to a non-bilayer phase occurs. We also demonstrate that the stability of the bilayer strongly correlates with the order parameter of the lipid tails.

Free fatty acids chain length distribution affects the permeability of skin lipid model membranes

The lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC) plays an important role in the barrier function of the skin. The main lipid classes in this lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The aim of this study was to determine whether a variation in CER subclass composition and chain length distribution of FFAs affect the permeability of this matrix. To examine this, we make use of lipid model membranes, referred to as stratum corneum substitute (SCS). We prepared SCS containing i) single CER subclass with either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs and CHOL, or ii) a mixture of various CER subclasses with either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs and CHOL. In vitro permeation studies were performed using ethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid (E-PABA) as a model drug. The flux of E-PABA across the SCS containing the mixture of FFAs was higher than that across the SCS containing a single FA with a chain length of 24 C atoms (FA C24), while the E-PABA flux was not effected by the CER composition. To select the underlying factors for the changes in permeability, the SCSs were examined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and Small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS). All lipid models demonstrated a similar phase behavior. However, when focusing on the conformational ordering of the individual FFA chains, the shorter chain FFA (with a chain length of 16, 18 or 20 C atoms forming only 11m/m% of the total FFA level) had a higher conformational disordering, while the conformational ordering of the chains of the CER and FA C24 and FA C22 hardly did not change irrespective of the composition of the SCS. In conclusion, the conformational mobility of the short chain FFAs present only at low levels in the model SC lipid membranes has a great impact on the permeability of E-PABA.

Modulation of stratum corneum lipid composition and organization of human skin equivalents by specific medium supplements

Our in-house human skin equivalents contain all stratum corneum (SC) barrier lipid classes, but have a reduced level of free fatty acids (FAs), of which a part is mono-unsaturated. These differences lead to an altered SC lipid organization and thereby a reduced barrier function compared to human skin. In this study, we aimed to improve the SC FA composition and, consequently, the SC lipid organization of the Leiden epidermal model (LEM) by specific medium supplements. The standard FA mixture (consisting of palmitic, linoleic and arachidonic acids) supplemented to the medium was modified, by replacing protonated palmitic acid with deuterated palmitic acid or by the addition of deuterated arachidic acid to the mixture, to determine whether FAs are taken up from the medium and are incorporated into SC of LEM. Furthermore, supplementation of the total FA mixture or that of palmitic acid alone was increased four times to examine whether this improves the SC FA composition and lipid organization of LEM. The results demonstrate that the deuterated FAs are taken up into LEMs and are subsequently elongated and incorporated in their SC. However, a fourfold increase in palmitic acid supplementation does not change the SC FA composition or lipid organization of LEM. Increasing the concentration of the total FA mixture in the medium resulted in a decreased level of very long chain FAs and an increased level of mono-unsaturated FAs, which lead to deteriorated SC lipid properties. These results indicate that SC lipid properties can be modulated by specific medium supplements.