The human skin barrier is organized as stacked bilayers of fully extended ceramides with cholesterol molecules associated with the ceramide sphingoid moiety

Mechanisms of the Drug Penetration Enhancer Propylene Glycol Interacting with Skin Lipid Membranes

Very few drugs have the necessary physicochemical properties to cross the skin's main permeability barrier, the stratum corneum (SC), in sufficient amounts. Propylene glycol (PG) is a chemical penetration enhancer that could be included in topical formulations in order to overcome the barrier properties of the skin and facilitate the transport of drugs across it. Experiments have demonstrated that PG increases the mobility and disorder of SC lipids and may extract cholesterol from the SC, but little is known about the molecular mechanisms of drug permeation enhancement by PG. In this work, we have performed molecular dynamics (MD) simulations to investigate the molecular-level effects of PG on the structure and properties of model SC lipid bilayers. The model bilayers were simulated in the presence of PG concentrations over the range of 0-100% w/w PG, using both an all-atom and a united atom force field. PG was found to localize in the hydrophilic headgroup regions at the bilayer interface, to occupy the lipid-water hydrogen-bonding sites, and to slightly increase lipid tail disorder in a concentration-dependent manner. We showed with MD simulation that PG enhances the permeation of small molecules such as water by interacting with the bilayer interface; the results of our study may be used to guide the design of formulations for transdermal drug delivery with enhanced skin permeation, as well as topical formulations and cosmetic products.

The Necessity to Investigate In Vivo Fate of Nanoparticle-Loaded Dissolving Microneedles

Transdermal drug delivery systems are rapidly gaining prominence and have found widespread application in the treatment of numerous diseases. However, they encounter the challenge of a low transdermal absorption rate. Microneedles can overcome the stratum corneum barrier to enhance the transdermal absorption rate. Among various types of microneedles, nanoparticle-loaded dissolving microneedles (DMNs) present a unique combination of advantages, leveraging the strengths of DMNs (high payload, good mechanical properties, and easy fabrication) and nanocarriers (satisfactory solubilization capacity and a controlled release profile). Consequently, they hold considerable clinical application potential in the precision medicine era. Despite this promise, no nanoparticle-loaded DMN products have been approved thus far. The lack of understanding regarding their in vivo fate represents a critical bottleneck impeding the clinical translation of relevant products. This review aims to elucidate the current research status of the in vivo fate of nanoparticle-loaded DMNs and elaborate the necessity to investigate the in vivo fate of nanoparticle-loaded DMNs from diverse aspects. Furthermore, it offers insights into potential entry points for research into the in vivo fate of nanoparticle-loaded DMNs, aiming to foster further advancements in this field.

Lipid Monolayer on Cell Surface Protein Templates Functional Extracellular Lipid Assembly

When the ancestors of men moved from aquatic habitats to the drylands, their evolutionary strategy to restrict water loss is to seal the skin surface with lipids. It is unknown how these rigid ceramide-dominated lipids with densely packed chains squeeze through narrow extracellular spaces and how they assemble into their complex multilamellar architecture. Here it is shown that the human corneocyte lipid envelope, a monolayer of ultralong covalently bound lipids on the cell surface protein, templates the functional barrier assembly by partly fluidizing and rearranging the free extracellular lipids in its vicinity during the sculpting of a functional skin lipid barrier. The lipid envelope also maintains the fluidity of the extracellular lipids during mechanical stress. This local lipid fluidization does not compromise the permeability barrier. The results provide new testable hypotheses about epidermal homeostasis and the pathophysiology underlying diseases with impaired lipid binding to corneocytes, such as congenital ichthyosis. In a broader sense, this lipoprotein-mediated fluidization of rigid (sphingo)lipid patches may also be relevant to lipid rafts and cellular signaling events and inspire new functional materials.

Permeability of Dermatological Solutes through the Short Periodicity Phase of Human Stratum Corneum Lipid Bilayers

Determining the permeability of drug-like solutes through the densely packed and heterogeneous stratum corneum lipid layer presents a significant challenge. In this study, we employed umbrella sampling with a periodic weighing function applied to the center of mass of the lipid bilayers. Precise umbrella sampling was conducted with an interframe distance of 0.5 Å, spanning from the bilayer center to the water phase, and each frame was simulated for at least 20 ns. Autocorrelation functions, potential of mean force (PMF), and diffusivity profiles were analyzed for six solutes (testosterone, benzene, caffeine, ethanol, mannitol, and histidine). The results revealed that autocorrelations were dependent solely on the medium, whether water or lipid phase. Diffusivity and PMF profiles along the reaction coordinate were influenced by the hydrophilicity of the solute rather than its size. For hydrophobic solutes, the PMF curves exhibited a minimum at the bilayer center, while for hydrophilic solutes, the PMFs peaked at the bilayer center and lipid tails (where the lipid tails are not interacting with the cholesterol). Diffusivity curves were low at the bilayer center and water phase, with peaks observed at the headgroup or the boundary between fatty acid and cholesterol (1 nm from the bilayer center). The quantitative findings presented in this work hold significance for pharmacists and drug designers.

The heterogeneity and complexity of skin surface lipids in human skin health and disease

The outermost epidermal layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is not simply a barrier that safeguards skin integrity from external insults and invaders, it is also a delicately integrated interface composed of firm, essentially dead corneocytes and a distinctive lipid matrix. Together, the stratum corneum lipid matrix and sebum lipids derived from sebaceous glands give rise to a remarkably complex but quite unique blend of skin surface lipids that demonstrates tremendous heterogeneity and provides the skin with its indispensable protective coating. The stratum corneum lipid matrix is composed primarily of three major lipid classes: ceramides, non-esterified fatty acids and cholesterol, whereas sebum is a waxy mixture predominantly composed of acylglycerols, wax esters, non-esterified fatty acids, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol esters. The balance of these skin surface lipids in terms of their relative abundance, composition, molecular organisation and dynamics, and their intricate interactions play a crucial role in the maintenance of healthy skin. For that reason, even minuscule alterations in skin surface lipid properties or overall lipid profile have been implicated in the aetiology of many common skin diseases including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, xerosis, ichthyosis and acne. Novel lipid-based interventions aimed at correcting the skin surface lipid abnormalities have the potential to repair skin barrier integrity and the symptoms associated with such skin diseases, even though the exact mechanisms of lipid restoration remain elusive.

Molecular Organization of the Skin Barrier

Cryo-electron microscopy of vitreous sections allows for investigation directly in situ of the molecular architecture of skin. Recently, this technique has contributed to the elucidation of the molecular organization of the skin's permeability barrier and its stepwise formation process. The aim of this review is to provide an overview of the procedure for cryo-electron microscopy of vitreous sections, its analysis using atomic detail molecular dynamics modelling and electron microscopy simulation, and its application in the investigation of the barrier structure and formation process of the skin.

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Effect of Lumenato a Tomato derived oral supplement on improving skin barrier strength

INTRODUCTION

Improvement of skin barrier strength could lead to healthy and youthful appearance. "Beauty inside-out" approach using nutraceuticals such as tomato derived carotenoids to support skin barrier strength could be of benefit to the ageing population.

METHOD

A panel of 60 female subjects were provided with the Lumenato capsules (containing carotenoids) or placebo capsules as nutritional supplements for 3 months. Skin health and barrier function were observed using evaporimeter which measures trans epidermal water loss (TEWL). Barrier strength was determined by study of the number of strippings required to disrupt skin barrier and barrier repair was observed in terms of TEWL a few hours after barrier disruption. Cutometer was used to observe skin firmness and elasticity. Measurements were obtained before treatment and after 4 and 12 weeks of use.

RESULTS

Results indicated a statistically significant improvement (p < 0.05) in skin barrier strength; a higher number of strippings were required to disrupt skin barrier after 12 weeks of supplement use. There was also a significant improvement in skin firmness and elasticity as observed with a cutometer.

CONCLUSION

Based on the confines and conditions of this study, oral supplementation with Lumenato resulted in significant improvement in skin barrier as well as skin firmness and elasticity.

Understanding Drug Skin Permeation Enhancers Using Molecular Dynamics Simulations

Our skin constitutes an effective permeability barrier that protects the body from exogenous substances but concomitantly severely limits the number of pharmaceutical drugs that can be delivered transdermally. In topical formulation design, chemical permeation enhancers (PEs) are used to increase drug skin permeability. In vitro skin permeability experiments can measure net effects of PEs on transdermal drug transport, but they cannot explain the molecular mechanisms of interactions between drugs, permeation enhancers, and skin structure, which limits the possibility to rationally design better new drug formulations. Here we investigate the effect of the PEs water, lauric acid, geraniol, stearic acid, thymol, ethanol, oleic acid, and eucalyptol on the transdermal transport of metronidazole, caffeine, and naproxen. We use atomistic molecular dynamics (MD) simulations in combination with developed molecular models to calculate the free energy difference between 11 PE-containing formulations and the skin's barrier structure. We then utilize the results to calculate the final concentration of PEs in skin. We obtain an RMSE of 0.58 log units for calculated partition coefficients from water into the barrier structure. We then use the modified PE-containing barrier structure to calculate the PEs' permeability enhancement ratios (ERs) on transdermal metronidazole, caffeine, and naproxen transport and compare with the results obtained from in vitro experiments. We show that MD simulations are able to reproduce rankings based on ERs. However, strict quantitative correlation with experimental data needs further refinement, which is complicated by significant deviations between different measurements. Finally, we propose a model for how to use calculations of the potential of mean force of drugs across the skin's barrier structure in a topical formulation design.

The Intriguing Molecular Dynamics of Cer[EOS] in Rigid Skin Barrier Lipid Layers Requires Improvement of the Model

Omega-O-acyl ceramides such as 32-linoleoyloxydotriacontanoyl sphingosine (Cer[EOS]) are essential components of the lipid skin barrier, which protects our body from excessive water loss and the penetration of unwanted substances. These ceramides drive the lipid assembly to epidermal-specific long periodicity phase (LPP), structurally much different than conventional lipid bilayers. Here, we synthesized Cer[EOS] with selectively deuterated segments of the ultralong N-acyl chain or deuterated or ¹³C-labeled linoleic acid and studied their molecular behavior in a skin lipid model. Solid-state ²H NMR data revealed surprising molecular dynamics for the ultralong N-acyl chain of Cer[EOS] with increased isotropic motion towards the isotropic ester-bound linoleate. The sphingosine moiety of Cer[EOS] is also highly mobile at skin temperature, in stark contrast to the other LPP components, N-lignoceroyl sphingosine acyl, lignoceric acid and cholesterol, which are predominantly rigid. The dynamics of the linoleic chain is quantitatively described by distributions of correlation times and using dynamic detector analysis. These NMR results along with neutron diffraction data suggest an LPP structure with alternating fluid (sphingosine chain-rich), rigid (acyl chain-rich), isotropic (linoleate-rich), rigid (acyl-chain rich), and fluid layers (sphingosine chain-rich). Such an arrangement of the skin barrier lipids with rigid layers separated with two different dynamic "fillings" i) agrees well with ultrastructural data, ii) satisfies the need for simultaneous rigidity (to ensure low permeability) and fluidity (to ensure elasticity, accommodate enzymes or antimicrobial peptides), and iii) offers a straightforward way to remodel the lamellar body lipids into the final lipid barrier.

Membrane permeability based on mesh analysis

The main function of a membrane is to control the exchange of matter between the surrounding regions. As such, accurate modeling of membranes is important to properly describe their properties. In many cases in both biological systems and technical applications, the membranes are composite structures where transport properties may vary between the different sub-regions of the membrane. In this work we develop a method based on Mesh analysis that is asymptotically exact and can describe diffusion in composite membrane structures. We do this by first reformulating a generalized Fick's law to include the effects from activity coefficient, diffusion coefficient, and solubility using a single condensed parameter. We then use the derived theory and Mesh analysis to, in essence, retrieve a finite element method approach. The calculated examples are based on a membrane structure that reassembles that of the brick and mortar structure of stratum corneum, the upper layer of our skin. Resulting concentration profiles from this procedure are then compared to experimental results for the distribution of different probes within intact stratum corneum, showing good agreement. Based on the derived approach we further investigate the impact from a gradient in the fluidity of the stratum corneum mortar lipids across the membrane, and find that it is substantial. We also show that anisotropic organisation of the lipid mortar can have large impact on the effective permeability compared to isotropic mortar lipids. Finally, we examine the effects of corneocyte swelling, and their lateral arrangement in the membrane on the overall membrane permeability.

Biomimetic Stratum Corneum Liposome Models: Lamellar Organization and Permeability Studies

The stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin, plays a crucial role as a barrier protecting the underlying cells from external stress. The SC comprises three key components: ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol, along with small fractions of cholesterol sulfate and cholesterol ester. In order to gain a deeper understanding about the interdependence of the two major components, CER and FFA, on the organizational, structural, and functional properties of the SC layer, a library of SC lipid liposome (SCLL) models was developed by mixing CER (phytosphingosine or sphingosine), FFA (oleic acid, palmitic acid, or stearic acid), cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Self-assembly of the SC lipids into lamellar phases was first confirmed by small-angle X-ray scattering. Short periodicity and long periodicity phases were identified for SCLLs containing phytosphingosines and sphingosine CERs, respectively. Furthermore, unsaturation in the CER acyl and FFA chains reduced the lipid conformational ordering and packing density of the liposomal bilayer, which were measured by differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The introduction of unsaturation in the CER and/or FFA chains also impacted the lamellar integrity and permeability. This extensive library of SCLL models exhibiting physiologically relevant lamellar phases with defined structural and functional properties may potentially be used as a model system for screening pharmaceuticals or cosmetic agents.

Polymorphism, Nanostructures, and Barrier Properties of Ceramide-Based Lipid Films

Ceramides belong to sphingolipids, an important group of cellular and extracellular lipids. Their physiological functions range from cell signaling to participation in the formation of barriers against water evaporation. In the skin, they are essential for the permeability barrier, together with free fatty acids and cholesterol. We examined the periodical structure and permeability of lipid films composed of ceramides (Cer; namely, N-lignoceroyl 6-hydroxysphingosine, CerNH24, and N-lignoceroyl sphingosine, CerNS24), lignoceric acid (LIG; 24:0), and cholesterol (Chol). X-ray diffraction experiments showed that the CerNH24-based samples form either a short lamellar phase (SLP, d ∼ 5.4 nm) or a medium lamellar phase (MLP, d = 10.63-10.78 nm) depending on the annealing conditions. The proposed molecular arrangement of the MLP based on extended Cer molecules also agreed with the relative neutron scattering length density profiles obtained from the neutron diffraction data. The presence of MLP increased the lipid film permeability to the lipophilic model permeant (indomethacin) relative to the CerNS24-based control samples and the samples that had the same lipid composition but formed an SLP. Thus, the arrangement of lipids in various nanostructures is responsive to external conditions during sample preparation. This polymorphic behavior directly affects the barrier properties, which could also be (patho)physiologically relevant.

3D Molecular Imaging of Stratum Corneum by Mass Spectrometry Suggests Distinct Distribution of Cholesteryl Esters Compared to Other Skin Lipids

The crucial barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) depend critically on the design and integrity of its layered molecular structure. However, analysis methods capable of spatially resolved molecular characterization of the SC are scarce and fraught with severe limitations, e.g., regarding molecular specificity or spatial resolution. Here, we used 3D time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry to characterize the spatial distribution of skin lipids in corneocyte multilayer squams obtained by tape stripping. Depth profiles of specific skin lipids display an oscillatory behavior that is consistent with successive monitoring of individual lipid and corneocyte layers of the SC structure. Whereas the most common skin lipids, i.e., ceramides, C24:0 and C26:0 fatty acids and cholesteryl sulfate, are similarly organized, a distinct 3D distribution was observed for cholesteryl oleate, suggesting a different localization of cholesteryl esters compared to the lipid matrix separating the corneocyte layers. The possibility to monitor the composition and spatial distribution of endogenous lipids as well as active drug and cosmetic substances in individual lipid and corneocyte layers has the potential to provide important contributions to the basic understanding of barrier function and penetration in the SC.

Treating allergies via skin - Recent advances in cutaneous allergen immunotherapy

Subcutaneous allergen immunotherapy has been practiced clinically for decades to treat airborne allergies. Recently, the cutaneous route, which exploits the immunocompetence of the skin has received attention, which is evident from attempts to use it to treat peanut allergy. Delivery of allergens into the skin is inherently impeded by the barrier imposed by stratum corneum, the top layer of the skin. While the stratum corneum barrier must be overcome for efficient allergen delivery, excessive disruption of this layer can predispose to development of allergic inflammation. Thus, the most desirable allergen delivery approach must provide a balance between the level of skin disruption and the amount of allergen delivered. Such an approach should aim to achieve high allergen delivery efficiency across various skin types independent of age and ethnicity, and optimize variables such as safety profile, allergen dosage, treatment frequency, application time and patient compliance. The ability to precisely quantify the amount of allergen being delivered into the skin is crucial since it can allow for allergen dose optimization and can promote consistency and reproducibility in treatment response. In this work we review prominent cutaneous delivery approaches, and offer a perspective on further improvisation in cutaneous allergen-specific immunotherapy.

Skin permeability prediction with MD simulation sampling spatial and alchemical reaction coordinates

A molecular-level understanding of skin permeation may rationalize and streamline product development, and improve quality and control, of transdermal and topical drug delivery systems. It may also facilitate toxicity and safety assessment of cosmetics and skin care products. Here, we present new molecular dynamics simulation approaches that make it possible to efficiently sample the free energy and local diffusion coefficient across the skin's barrier structure to predict skin permeability and the effects of chemical penetration enhancers. In particular, we introduce a new approach to use two-dimensional reaction coordinates in the accelerated weight histogram method, where we combine sampling along spatial coordinates with an alchemical perturbation virtual coordinate. We present predicted properties for 20 permeants, and demonstrate how our approach improves correlation with ex vivo/in vitro skin permeation data. For the compounds included in this study, the obtained log KPexp-calc mean square difference was 0.9 cm2 h-2.

The ROC skin model: a robust skin equivalent for permeation and live cell imaging studies

Rat Epidermal Keratinocyte (REK) Organotypic Culture (ROC) is an epidermis model that is robust and inexpensive to develop and maintain, and it has in previous studies been shown to have permeability characteristics close to those of human skin. Here, we characterize the model further by structural comparison to native human and rat skin and by investigating functional characteristics of lipid packing, polarity, and permeability coefficients. We show that the ROC model has structural similarities to native human skin and observe human skin-like permeability coefficients for testosterone and mannitol. We develop a transwell device that allows live cell microscopy of the tissue at the air-liquid interface and establish transgenic cell lines expressing different fluorescently tagged proteins. This enables showing the migration of keratinocytes during the first days after seeding, finding that keratinocytes have a higher mean migration rate in the earlier days of development. Collectively, our results show that the ROC model is an inexpensive and robust epidermis model that works reproducibly across laboratories.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Multiscale Simulation of Ternary Stratum Corneum Lipid Mixtures: Effects of Cholesterol Composition

Molecular dynamics simulations of mixtures of the ceramide nonhydroxy-sphingosine (NS), cholesterol, and a free fatty acid are performed to gain molecular-level understanding of the structure of the lipids found in the stratum corneum layer of skin. A new coarse-grained force field for cholesterol was developed using the multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion (MS-IBI) method. The coarse-grained cholesterol force field is compatible with previously developed coarse-grained force fields for ceramide NS, free fatty acids, and water and validated against atomistic simulations of these lipids using the CHARMM force field. Self-assembly simulations of multilayer structures using these coarse-grained force fields are performed, revealing that a large fraction of the ceramides adopt extended conformations, which cannot occur in the single bilayer in water structures typically studied using molecular simulation. Cholesterol fluidizes the membrane by promoting packing defects, and an increase in cholesterol content is found to reduce the bilayer thickness due to an increase in interdigitation of the C₂₄ lipid tails, consistent with experimental observations. Using a reverse-mapping procedure, a self-assembled coarse-grained multilayer system is used to construct an equivalent structure with atomistic resolution. Simulations of this atomistic structure are found to closely agree with experimentally derived neutron scattering length density profiles. Significant interlayer hydrogen bonding is observed in the inner layers of the atomistic multilayer structure that are not found in the outer layers in contact with water or in equivalent bilayer structures. This work highlights the importance of simulating multilayer structures, as compared to the more commonly studied bilayer systems, to enable more appropriate comparisons with multilayer experimental membranes. These results also provide validation of the efficacy of the MS-IBI derived coarse-grained force fields and the framework for multiscale simulation.

ω-O-Acylceramides but not ω-hydroxy ceramides are required for healthy lamellar phase architecture of skin barrier lipids

Epidermal omega-O-acylceramides (ω-O-acylCers) are essential components of a competent skin barrier. These unusual sphingolipids with ultralong N-acyl chains contain linoleic acid esterified to the terminal hydroxyl of the N-acyl, the formation of which requires the transacylase activity of patatin-like phospholipase domain containing 1 (PNPLA1). In ichthyosis with dysfunctional PNPLA1, ω-O-acylCer levels are significantly decreased, and ω-hydroxylated Cers (ω-OHCers) accumulate. Here we explore the role of the linoleate moiety in ω-O-acylCers in the assembly of the skin lipid barrier. Ultrastructural studies of skin samples from neonatal Pnpla1^+/+ and Pnpla1^-/- mice showed that the linoleate moiety in ω-O-acylCers is essential for lamellar pairing in lamellar bodies, as well as for stratum corneum lipid assembly into the long periodicity lamellar phase (LPP). To further study the molecular details of ω-O-acylCer deficiency on skin barrier lipid assembly, we built in vitro lipid models composed of major stratum corneum lipid subclasses containing either ω-O-acylCer (healthy skin model), ω-OHCer (Pnpla1^-/- model), or combination of the two. X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy, and permeability studies indicated that ω-OHCers could not substitute for ω-O-acylCers, although in favorable conditions, they form a medium lamellar phase with a 10.8 nm-repeat distance and permeability barrier properties similar to LPP. In the absence of ω-O-acylCers, skin lipids were prone to separation into two phases with diminished barrier properties. The models combining ω-OHCers with ω-O-acylCers indicated that accumulation of ω-OHCers does not prevent ω-O-acylCer-driven lamellar stacking. These data suggest that ω-O-acylCer supplementation may be a viable therapeutic option in patients with PNPLA1 deficiency.

AKVANO®: A Novel Lipid Formulation System for Topical Drug Delivery-In Vitro Studies

A novel formulation technology called AKVANO® has been developed with the aim to provide a tuneable and versatile drug delivery system for topical administration. The vehicle is based on a water-free lipid formulation where selected lipids, mainly phospholipids rich in phosphatidylcholine, are dissolved in a volatile solvent, such as ethanol. With the aim of describing the basic properties of the system, the following physicochemical methods were used: viscometry, dynamic light scattering, NMR diffusometry, and atomic force microscopy. AKVANO formulations are non-viscous, with virtually no or very minute aggregates formed, and when applied to the skin, e.g., by spraying, a thin film consisting of lipid bilayer structures is formed. Standardized in vitro microbiological and irritation tests show that AKVANO formulations meet criteria for antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral activities and, at the same time, are being investigated as a non-irritant to the skin and eye. The ethanol content in AKVANO facilitates incorporation of many active pharmaceutical ingredients (>80 successfully tested) and the phospholipids seem to act as a solubilizer in the formulation. In vitro skin permeation experiments using Strat-M® membranes have shown that AKVANO formulations can be designed to alter the penetration of active ingredients by changing the lipid composition.

Cholesterol Sulfate Fluidizes the Sterol Fraction of the Stratum Corneum Lipid Phase and Increases its Permeability

Desulfation of cholesterol sulfate (CholS) to cholesterol (Chol) is an important event in epidermal homeostasis and necessary for stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. The CholS/Chol ratio decreases during SC maturation but remains high in pathological conditions, such as X-linked ichthyosis, characterized by dry and scaly skin. The aim of this study was to characterize the influence of the CholS/Chol molar ratio on the structure, dynamics, and permeability of SC lipid model mixtures. We synthesized deuterated CholS and investigated lipid models with specifically deuterated components using ²H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25°C to 80°C. Although the rigid acyl chains in ceramides and fatty acids remained essentially rigid upon variation of the CholS/Chol ratio, both sterols were increasingly fluidized in lipid models containing higher CholS concentrations. We also show the X-ray repeat distance of the lipid lamellar phase (105 Å) and the orthorhombic chain packing of the ceramide’s acyl chains and long free fatty acids did not change upon the variation of the CholS content. However, the Chol phase separation visible in models with high Chol concentration disappeared at the 50:50 CholS/Chol ratio. This increased fluidity resulted in higher permeabilities to model markers of these SC models. These results reveal that a high CholS/Chol ratio fluidizes the sterol fraction and increases the permeability of the SC lipid phase while maintaining the lamellar lipid arrangement with an asymmetric sterol distribution.

What can we learn about amphiphile-membrane interaction from model lipid membranes?

Surface-active amphiphiles find applications in a wide range of areas of industry such as agrochemicals, personal care, and pharmaceuticals. In many of these applications, interaction with cell membranes is a key factor for achieving their purpose. How do amphiphiles interact with lipid membranes? What are their bases for membrane specificity? Which biophysical properties of membranes are susceptible to modulation by amphiphilic membrane-effectors? What aspects of this interaction are important for performing their function? In our work on membrane biophysics over the years, questions like these have arisen and we now share some of our findings and discuss them in this review. This topic was approached focusing on the membrane properties and their alterations rather than on the amphiphile structure requirements for their interaction. Here, we do not aim to provide a comprehensive list of the modes of action of amphiphiles of biological interest but to help in understanding them.

Cerosomes as skin repairing agent: Mode of action studies with a model stratum corneum layer at liquid/air and liquid/solid interfaces

The stratum corneum (SC) is the largest physical barrier of the human body. It protects against physical, chemical and biological damages, and avoids evaporation of water from the deepest skin layers. For its correct functioning, the homeostasis of the SC lipid matrix is fundamental. An alteration of the lipid matrix composition and in particular of its ceramide (CER) fraction can lead to the development of pathologies such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Different studies showed that the direct replenishment of SC lipids on damaged skin had positive effects on the recovery of its barrier properties. In this work, cerosomes, i.e. liposomes composed of SC lipids, have been successfully prepared in order to investigate the mechanism of interaction with a model SC lipid matrix. The cerosomes contain CER[NP], D-CER[AP], stearic acid and cholesterol. In addition, hydrogenated soybean phospholipids have been added to one of the formulations leading to an increased stability at neutral pH. For the mode of action studies, monolayer models at the air-water interface and on solid support have been deployed. The results indicated that a strong interaction occurred between SC monolayers and the cerosomes. Since both systems were negatively charged, the driving force for the interaction must be based on the ability of CERs head groups to establish intermolecular hydrogen bonding networks that energetically prevailed against the electrostatic repulsion. This work proved for the first time the mode of action by which cerosomes exploit their function as skin barrier repairing agents on the SC.

Evaluation of Constrained and Restrained Molecular Dynamics Simulation Methods for Predicting Skin Lipid Permeability

Recently, molecular dynamics (MD) simulations have been utilized to investigate the barrier properties of human skin stratum corneum (SC) lipid bilayers. Different MD methods and force fields have been utilized, with predicted permeabilities varying by few orders of magnitude. In this work, we compare constrained MD simulations with restrained MD simulations to obtain the potential of the mean force and the diffusion coefficient profile for the case of a water molecule permeating across an SC lipid bilayer. Corresponding permeabilities of the simulated lipid bilayer are calculated via the inhomogeneous solubility diffusion model. Results show that both methods perform similarly, but restrained MD simulations have proven to be the more robust approach for predicting the potential of the mean force profile. Critical to both methods are the sampling of the whole trans-bilayer axis and the following symmetrization process. Re-analysis of the previously reported free energy profiles showed that some of the discrepancies in the reported permeability values is due to misquotation of units, while some are due to the inaccurately obtained potential of the mean force. By using the existing microscopic geometrical models via the intercellular lipid pathway, the permeation through the whole SC is predicted from the MD simulation results, and the predicted barrier properties have been compared to experimental data from the literature with good agreement.

Cracking the Skin Barrier: Liquid-Liquid Phase Separation Shines under the Skin

Central to forming and sustaining the skin’s barrier, epidermal keratinocytes (KCs) fluxing to the skin surface undergo a rapid and enigmatic transformation into flat, enucleated squames. At the crux of this transformation are intracellular keratohyalin granules (KGs) that suddenly disappear as terminally differentiating KCs transition to the cornified skin surface. Defects in KGs have long been linked to skin barrier disorders. Through the biophysical lens of liquid-liquid phase separation (LLPS), these enigmatic KGs recently emerged as liquid-like membraneless organelles whose assembly and subsequent pH-triggered disassembly drive squame formation. To stimulate future efforts toward cracking the complex process of skin barrier formation, in this review, we integrate the key concepts and foundational work spanning the fields of LLPS and epidermal biology. We review the current progress in the skin and discuss implications in the broader context of membraneless organelles across stratifying epithelia. The discovery of environmentally sensitive LLPS dynamics in the skin points to new avenues for dissecting the skin barrier and for addressing skin barrier disorders. We argue that skin and its appendages offer outstanding models to uncover LLPS-driven mechanisms in tissue biology.

Assessment of serum concentrations of matrix metalloproteinase 1, matrix metalloproteinase 2 and tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases 1 in atopic dermatitis in correlation with disease severity and epidermal barrier parameters

Introduction

Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) are a group of proteolytic enzymes, conditioning the integrity of skin cells, however, their role in the inflammatory process of atopic dermatitis (AD) and the direct effect on the epidermal barrier parameters remain unexplained.

Aim

To assess MMP-1, MMP-2, tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMP)-1 concentrations in blood serum in the context of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum hydration in AD. Moreover, serum levels of MMPs and TIMP-1 were analysed in relation to the Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI).

Material and methods

Forty-three AD patients and 22 control group subjects have been investigated. Serum concentrations of MMP-1, MMP-2, and TIMP-1 have been evaluated with ELISA. TEWL and stratum corneum hydration have been assessed with a TM300 Tewameter and a CM825 Corneometer. Skin lesions in patients with AD have been evaluated with the Eczema Area and Severity Index.

Results

MMP-1 and MMP-2 serum concentrations were significantly higher in the AD group. The results of TIMP-1 serum concentration were similar for both groups. The correlation between the serum concentration and the EASI was demonstrated only for MMP-2 for patients with severe and moderate AD. Patients with AD and TIMP-1 serum concentration greater than MMP-1 presented lower TEWL and higher epidermal hydration.

Conclusions

The results of this study warrant further investigation. The predominance of TIMP-1 over MMP-1 in blood serum can potentially limit TEWL and maintain the proper water content of the epidermis. Future work is necessary to establish how reliable the role of MMP-2 concentration is as an indicator of the severity of AD.

Topical drug delivery: History, percutaneous absorption, and product development

Topical products, widely used to manage skin conditions, have evolved from simple potions to sophisticated delivery systems. Their development has been facilitated by advances in percutaneous absorption and product design based on an increasingly mechanistic understanding of drug-product-skin interactions, associated experiments, and a quality-by-design framework. Topical drug delivery involves drug transport from a product on the skin to a local target site and then clearance by diffusion, metabolism, and the dermal circulation to the rest of the body and deeper tissues. Insights have been provided by Quantitative Structure Permeability Relationships (QSPR), molecular dynamics simulations, and dermal Physiologically Based PharmacoKinetics (PBPK). Currently, generic product equivalents of reference-listed products dominate the topical delivery market. There is an increasing regulatory interest in understanding topical product delivery behavior under 'in use' conditions and predicting in vivo response for population variations in skin barrier function and response using in silico and in vitro findings.

The Pathogenic and Therapeutic Implications of Ceramide Abnormalities in Atopic Dermatitis

Ceramides play an essential role in forming a permeability barrier in the skin. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common chronic skin disease associated with skin barrier dysfunction and immunological abnormalities. In patients with AD, the amount and composition of ceramides in the stratum corneum are altered. This suggests that ceramide abnormalities are involved in the pathogenesis of AD. The mechanism underlying lipid abnormalities in AD has not yet been fully elucidated, but the involvement of Th2 and Th1 cytokines is implicated. Ceramide-dominant emollients have beneficial effects on skin barrier function; thus, they have been approved as an adjunctive barrier repair agent for AD. This review summarizes the current understanding of the mechanisms of ceramide abnormalities in AD. Furthermore, the potential therapeutic approaches for correcting ceramide abnormalities in AD are discussed.

Molecular perspective of efficiency and safety problems of chemical enhancers: bottlenecks and recent advances

Chemical penetration enhancer (CPE) is a preferred approach to improve drug permeability through the skin, due to its unique advantages of simple use and high compatibility. However, CPEs efficiency and safety problems frequently arise, which greatly restrains the further application in transdermal drug delivery systems (TDDS). To get access to the root of problems, the efficiency and safety of CPEs are reviewed especially from molecular perspectives, which include (1) the possible factors of CPEs low efficiency; (2) the possible contribution of CPEs in the evolution of safety problems such as skin irritation and allergic reaction; (3) the interactive relationship between CPEs efficiency and safety, as well as the bottlenecks of achieving their balance. More importantly, based on these, recent advances are summarized in improving efficiency or safety of CPEs, which offers a guidance of rationally selecting CPEs in future research.

The Skin's Barrier: A Cryo-EM Based Overview of its Architecture and Stepwise Formation

A major role of the skin is to serve as a barrier toward the environment. The skin's permeability barrier consists of a lipid structure positioned in the stratum corneum. Recent progress in high-resolution cryo-electron microscopy (cryo-EM) has allowed for elucidation of the architecture of the skin's barrier and its stepwise formation process representing the final stage of epidermal differentiation. In this review, we present an overview of the skin's barrier structure and its formation process, as evidenced by cryo-EM.

Improved Skin Permeability after Topical Treatment with Serine Protease: Probing the Penetration of Rapamycin by Scanning Transmission X-ray Microscopy

Drug penetration in human skin ex vivo following a modification of skin barrier permeability is systematically investigated by scanning transmission X-ray microscopy. Element-selective excitation is used in the O 1s regime for probing quantitatively the penetration of topically applied rapamycin in different formulations with a spatial resolution reaching <75 nm. The data were analyzed by a comparison of two methods: (i) two-photon energies employing the Beer-Lambert law and (ii) a singular value decomposition approach making use of the full spectral information in each pixel of the X-ray micrographs. The latter approach yields local drug concentrations more reliably and sensitively probed than the former. The present results from both approaches indicate that rapamycin is not observed within the stratum corneum of nontreated skin ex vivo, providing evidence for the observation that this high-molecular-weight drug inefficiently penetrates intact skin. However, rapamycin is observed to penetrate more efficiently the stratum corneum when modifications of the skin barrier are induced by the topical pretreatment with the serine protease trypsin for variable time periods ranging from 2 to 16 h. After the longest exposure time to serine protease, the drug is even found in the viable epidermis. High-resolution micrographs indicate that the lipophilic drug preferably associates with corneocytes, while signals found in the intercellular lipid compartment were less pronounced. This result is discussed in comparison to previous work obtained from low-molecular-weight lipophilic drugs as well as polymer nanocarriers, which were found to penetrate the intact stratum corneum exclusively via the lipid layers between the corneocytes. Also, the role of the tight junction barrier in the stratum granulosum is briefly discussed with respect to modifications of the skin barrier induced by enhanced serine protease activity, a phenomenon of clinical relevance in a range of inflammatory skin disorders.

Surface science of cosmetic substrates, cleansing actives and formulations

The development of shampoo and cleansing formulations in cosmetics is at a crossroads due to consumer demands for better performing, more natural products and also the strong commitment of cosmetic companies to improve the sustainability of cosmetic products. In order to go beyond traditional formulations, it is of great importance to clearly establish the science behind cleansing technologies and appreciate the specificity of cleansing biological surfaces such as hair and skin. In this review, we present recent advances in our knowledge of the physicochemical properties of the hair surface from both an experimental and a theoretical point of view. We discuss the opportunities and challenges that newer, sustainable formulations bring compared to petroleum-based ingredients. The inevitable evolution towards more bio-based, eco-friendly ingredients and sustainable formulations requires a complete rethink of many well-known physicochemical principles. The pivotal role of digital sciences and modelling in the understanding and conception of new ingredients and formulations is discussed. We describe recent numerical approaches that take into account the specificities of the hair surface in terms of structuration, different methods that study the adsorption of formulation ingredients and finally the success of new data-driven approaches. We conclude with practical examples on current formulation efforts incorporating bio-surfactants, controlling foaming and searching for new rheological properties.

Multi parametric biophysical assessment of treatment effects on xerotic skin

Background

Topical moisturizing products are widely used to alleviate the problems associated with xerotic skin. Their use affects many properties of the stratum corneum (SC) in a complex and interrelated manner. The range of measurement techniques available to the researcher has increased in recent years. However, few studies have looked for correlations between the different techniques for assessing how aspects of xerotic skin change over time as a result of topical moisturizer usage.

Objectives

A 3‐week in vivo study using an oil‐in‐water based moisturizing product and an untreated site was conducted to determine the clinical significance of and any correlations between a range of different approaches for the measurement of skin lipid content and also skin hydration and visual grading of dry skin.

Methods

A range of traditional and more recently developed skin measurement techniques have been used to examine a variety of SC properties in normal and xerotic skin during topical moisturizer usage.

Results

In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and analysis of SC lipids from tape strips both showed an increase in SC lipid level and organization after 3 weeks of moisturizer usage on xerotic skin. Hydration, measured both optically and electrically, also increased and skin barrier function improved, with strong correlations between the different measures of dryness being observed.

Conclusions

Strong correlations were observed between the skin measurements for lipid assessment and skin hydration with regard to the assessment of xerotic skin, providing valuable new information for future in vivo clinical research into dry and atopic skin.

Keywords

biophysical assessment, skin barrier, skin hydration, topical moisturizers, Xerosis

Acidic pH Is Required for the Multilamellar Assembly of Skin Barrier Lipids In Vitro

Lipid membrane remodeling belongs to the most fundamental processes in the body. The skin barrier lipids, which are ceramide dominant and highly rigid, must attain an unusual multilamellar nanostructure with long periodicity to restrict water loss and prevent the entry of potentially harmful environmental factors. Our data suggest that the skin acid mantle, apart from regulating enzyme activities and keeping away pathogens, may also be a prerequisite for the multilamellar assembly of the skin barrier lipids. Atomic force microscopy on monolayers composed of synthetic or human stratum corneum lipids showed multilayer formation (approximately 10-nm step height) in an acidic but not in a neutral environment. X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and permeability studies showed markedly altered lipid nanostructure and increased water loss at neutral pH compared with that at acidic pH. These findings are consistent with the data on the altered organization of skin lipids and increased transepidermal water loss under conditions such as inadequate skin acidification, for example, in neonates, the elderly, and patients with atopic dermatitis.

Dermal Drivers of Injury-Induced Inflammation: Contribution of Adipocytes and Fibroblasts

Irregular inflammatory responses are a major contributor to tissue dysfunction and inefficient repair. Skin has proven to be a powerful model to study mechanisms that regulate inflammation. In particular, skin wound healing is dependent on a rapid, robust immune response and subsequent dampening of inflammatory signaling. While injury-induced inflammation has historically been attributed to keratinocytes and immune cells, a vast body of evidence supports the ability of non-immune cells to coordinate inflammation in numerous tissues and diseases. In this review, we concentrate on the active participation of tissue-resident adipocytes and fibroblasts in pro-inflammatory signaling after injury, and how altered cellular communication from these cells can contribute to irregular inflammation associated with aberrant wound healing. Furthering our understanding of how tissue-resident mesenchymal cells contribute to inflammation will likely reveal new targets that can be manipulated to regulate inflammation and repair.

Skin Disease Models In Vitro and Inflammatory Mechanisms: Predictability for Drug Development

Investigative skin biology, analysis of human skin diseases, and numerous clinical and pharmaceutical applications rely on skin models characterized by reproducibility and predictability. Traditionally, such models include animal models, mainly rodents, and cellular models. While animal models are highly useful in many studies, they are being replaced by human cellular models in more and more approaches amid recent technological development due to ethical considerations. The culture of keratinocytes and fibroblasts has been used in cell biology for many years. However, only the development of co-culture and three-dimensional epidermis and full-skin models have fundamentally contributed to our understanding of cell-cell interaction and cell signalling in the skin, keratinocyte adhesion and differentiation, and mechanisms of skin barrier function. The modelling of skin diseases has highlighted properties of the skin important for its integrity and cutaneous development. Examples of monogenic as well as complex diseases including atopic dermatitis and psoriasis have demonstrated the role of skin models to identify pathomechanisms and drug targets. Recent investigations have indicated that 3D skin models are well suitable for drug testing and preclinical studies of topical therapies. The analysis of skin diseases has recognized the importance of inflammatory mechanisms and immune responses and thus other cell types such as dendritic cells and T cells in the skin. Current developments include the production of more complete skin models comprising a range of different cell types. Organ models and even multi-organ systems are being developed for the analysis of higher levels of cellular interaction and drug responses and are among the most recent innovations in skin modelling. They promise improved robustness and flexibility and aim at a body-on-a-chip solution for comprehensive pharmaceutical in vitro studies.

Hydrochannel-Containing Hydrophobic Polymers by Inverse Emulsion Polymerization for Moisture-Driven Actuators

Two physical properties in polymers, hydrophobic and water-absorptive, are known to be incompatible. However, human skin in nature has a hydrophobic surface and yet absorbs water throughout hydrophilic amino acid sequences in filaggrin, one of the abundant proteins in our outermost skin layer. Although present in nature, a hydrophilic path network in a hydrophobic polymer is difficult to synthesize because of poor wettability and immiscibility between the two types of materials. Herein, we introduce a novel method for the creation of a hydrophobic absorptive polymer (HPHG), which overcomes the inherent incompatibility by increasing hydrophobicity of reaction sites in hydrophilic monomers. The methacrylate structure in hydrophilic monomers successfully contributes to stabilize reverse emulsions, which consist of polyethyleneglycol (PEG) methacrylate and polyethyleneglycol (PEG) dimethacrylate, in a hydrophobic matrix of polymethylhydrosiloxane and divinylpolydimethylsiloxane (PDMS material sources). The HPHG film (with a 11 weight percent water content) shows water repellency having over 100° contact angle with a water droplet and yet is capable of absorbing water by 19.1 weight percent while maintaining decent hydrophobicity on the surface (78° water contact angle). We have successfully demonstrated a moisture-driven actuator by constructing a bilayer of HPHG and PDMS (or a textile), which is delamination-free and transforms into a curvature geometry by a preferential expansion of the HPHG layer. HPHG is applicable for soft robotics and smart actuators where a hydrophobic artificial skin is needed to protect the surface against hydrophilic invasions of undesirable substances such as metal ions, bacteria, or viruses but absorptive for desirable evaporation and mobility by water migration in the polymer matrix.

Addressing Differentiation in Live Human Keratinocytes by Assessment of Membrane Packing Order

Differentiation of keratinocytes is critical for epidermal stratification and formation of a protective stratum corneum. It involves a series of complex processes leading through gradual changes in characteristics and functions of keratinocytes up to their programmed cell death via cornification. The stratum corneum is a relatively impermeable barrier, comprised of dead cell remnants (corneocytes) embedded in lipid matrix. Corneocyte membranes are comprised of specialized lipids linked to late differentiation proteins, contributing to the formation of a stiff and mechanically strengthened layer. To date, the assessment of the progression of keratinocyte differentiation is only possible through determination of specific differentiation markers, e.g., by using proteomics-based approaches. Unfortunately, this requires fixation or cell lysis, and currently there is no robust methodology available to study keratinocyte differentiation in living cells in real-time. Here, we explore new live-cell based approaches for screening differentiation advancement in keratinocytes, in a "calcium switch" model. We employ a polarity-sensitive dye, Laurdan, and Laurdan general polarization function (GP) as a reporter of the degree of membrane lateral packing order or condensation, as an adequate marker of differentiation. We show that the assay is straightforward and can be conducted either on a single cell level using confocal spectral imaging or on the ensemble level using a fluorescence plate reader. Such systematic quantification may become useful for understanding mechanisms of keratinocyte differentiation, such as the role of membrane in homogeneities in stiffness, and for future therapeutic development.

Skin hydration dynamics investigated by electrical impedance techniques in vivo and in vitro

Skin is easily accessible for transdermal drug delivery and also attractive for biomarker sampling. These applications are strongly influenced by hydration where elevated hydration generally leads to increased skin permeability. Thus, favorable transdermal delivery and extraction conditions can be easily obtained by exploiting elevated skin hydration. Here, we provide a detailed in vivo and in vitro investigation of the skin hydration dynamics using three techniques based on electrical impedance spectroscopy. Good correlation between in vivo and in vitro results is demonstrated, which implies that simple but realistic in vitro models can be used for further studies related to skin hydration (e.g., cosmetic testing). Importantly, the results show that hydration proceeds in two stages. Firstly, hydration between 5 and 10 min results in a drastic skin impedance change, which is interpreted as filling of superficial voids in skin with conducting electrolyte solution. Secondly, a subtle impedance change is observed over time, which is interpreted as leveling of the water gradient across skin leading to structural relaxation/changes of the macromolecular skin barrier components. With respect to transdermal drug delivery and extraction of biomarkers; 1 h of hydration is suggested to result in beneficial and stable conditions in terms of high skin permeability and extraction efficiency.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Development and application of coarse-grained MARTINI model of skin lipid ceramide [AP]

Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin, contains large variety of lipids, endowing them with the amphiphilic properties, needed to fulfil their key role in skin's barrier function. The individual role of lipid types in the barrier function is difficult to understand due to the immense heterogeneity and complexity of the lipid's organization within the SC. The lipid organization is being explored using both computational (molecular dynamics simulations) and experimental (neutron diffraction) techniques. Even though atomistic simulations provide unprecedented atomic level details, the major limitation is time and length scale that can be achieved with decent computational facility. Alternatively, coarse-grain (CG) models are currently being used to capture physics at bigger time and length scale without losing essential underlined structural information. In this study, a CG model of α-hydroxy phytosphingosines (CER[AP]) is developed based on philosophy of MARTINI force field. At first, the model is validated with various atomistic simulations and available experimental data. Later on, the model's compatibility with other major skin lipids, cholesterol, and free fatty acid (palmitic acid) is checked by simulating a mixture of lipid multilayer in presence and absence of water. The developed model of CER[AP] is able to predict key structural properties within the acceptable error limits. The phenomena of ceramide conformation transformation, cholesterol flip-flop, and specificity of lipid arrangement within the multilayered systems is observed during the simulation. This signifies the importance of model in capturing higher order structural transformations.

Molecular Dynamics Simulation of Small Molecules Interacting with Biological Membranes

Cell membranes protect and compartmentalise cells and their organelles. The semi-permeable nature of these membranes controls the exchange of solutes across their structure. Characterising the interaction of small molecules with biological membranes is critical to understanding of physiological processes, drug action and permeation, and many biotechnological applications. This review provides an overview of how molecular simulations are used to study the interaction of small molecules with biological membranes, with a particular focus on the interactions of water, organic compounds, drugs and short peptides with models of plasma cell membrane and stratum corneum lipid bilayers. This review will not delve on other types of membranes which might have different composition and arrangement, such as thylakoid or mitochondrial membranes. The application of unbiased molecular dynamics simulations and enhanced sampling methods such as umbrella sampling, metadynamics and replica exchange are described using key examples. This review demonstrates how state-of-the-art molecular simulations have been used successfully to describe the mechanism of binding and permeation of small molecules with biological membranes, as well as associated changes to the structure and dynamics of these membranes. The review concludes with an outlook on future directions in this field.

Microbeam X-ray diffraction study of lipid structure in stratum corneum of human skin

Human skin, not previously frozen, was studied by small-angle X-ray diffraction. The samples were folded so that a 6μm X-ray beam passed through the top layer of skin, stratum corneum. Diffraction patterns recorded with this method consisted of peaks at about q = 0.5, 1.0 and 1.4 nm-1 in the direction perpendicular to the skin surface more clearly than in previous studies. These peaks are interpreted to arise from lipids between corneocytes. A simple unit of a linear electron density profile with three minima was used to account for the observed intensity profiles. Combinations of calculated diffraction from models with one, two and three units accounted for the major part of the observed diffraction pattern, showing the diversity in the structure of the intercellular lipids.

Coexistence of Lipid Phases Stabilizes Interstitial Water in the Outer Layer of Mammalian Skin

The lipid matrix in the outer layer of mammalian skin, the stratum corneum, has been previously investigated by multiple biophysical techniques aimed at identifying hydrophilic and lipophilic pathways of permeation. Although consensus is developing over the microscopic structure of the lipid matrix, no molecular-resolution model describes the permeability of all chemical species simultaneously. Using molecular dynamics simulations of a model mixture of skin lipids, the self-assembly of the lipid matrix lamellae has been studied. At higher humidity, the resulting lamellar phase is maintained by partitioning excess water into isolated droplets of controlled size and spatial distribution. The droplets may fuse together to form intralamellar water channels, thereby providing a pathway for the permeation of hydrophilic species. These results reconcile competing data on the outer skin's structure and broaden the scope of molecular-based methods to improve the safety of topical products and to advance transdermal drug delivery.

Rosacea Is Characterized by a Profoundly Diminished Skin Barrier

Rosacea is a common chronic inflammation of sebaceous gland-rich facial skin characterized by severe skin dryness, elevated pH, transepidermal water loss, and decreased hydration levels. Until now, there has been no thorough molecular analysis of permeability barrier alterations in the skin of patients with rosacea. Thus, we aimed to investigate the barrier alterations in papulopustular rosacea samples compared with healthy sebaceous gland-rich skin, using RNA sequencing analysis (n = 8). Pathway analyses by Cytoscape ClueGO revealed 15 significantly enriched pathways related to skin barrier formation. RT-PCR and immunohistochemistry were used to validate the pathway analyses. The results showed significant alterations in barrier components in papulopustular rosacea samples compared with sebaceous gland-rich skin, including the cornified envelope and intercellular lipid lamellae formation, desmosome and tight junction organizations, barrier alarmins, and antimicrobial peptides. Moreover, the barrier damage in papulopustular rosacea was unexpectedly similar to atopic dermatitis; this similarity was confirmed by immunofluorescent staining. In summary, besides the well-known dysregulation of immunological, vascular, and neurological functions, we demonstrated prominent permeability barrier alterations in papulopustular rosacea at the molecular level, which highlight the importance of barrier repair therapies for rosacea.

l-Ascorbic acid alkyl esters action on stratum corneum model membranes: An insight into the mechanism for enhanced skin permeation

L-ascorbic acid alkyl esters (ASCn) are lipophilic forms of vitamin C, which act as skin permeation enhancers. We investigated the physical changes induced by incorporating ASCn into stratum corneum (SC) lipid membranes and correlated this with the mechanism proposed in the literature for skin permeation enhancement phenomena. We used lipid monolayers to explore the 2D structure and elasticity of the lipid-enhancer systems. As a comparison, the classic permeation enhancer, oleic acid (OA) and the non-enhancer analogue stearic acid (SA) were analysed. The incorporation of ASCn or OA into SC membranes resulted in more liquid-like films, with a dose-dependent lowering of the compressibility modulus. Brewster angle microscopy (BAM) evidenced partial miscibility of the enhancer with SC lipid components, stabilising the liquid-expanded phase. At the nanoscale, AFM showed that SC lipids form heterogeneous membranes, which underwent structural alterations after incorporating ASCn and fatty acids, such as SA and OA. The lower, cholesterol-enriched phase appears to concentrate the enhancers, whilst the higher ceramide-enriched phase concentrated the non-enhancer SA. Our results and previously reported pieces of evidence indicate a strong pattern in which the rheological properties of SC lipid films are determinant for skin permeation phenomena.