Skin hydration: interplay between molecular dynamics, structure and water uptake in the stratum corneum

Spatial distribution of active compounds in stratum corneum-partitioning between corneocytes and lipid matrix

The interaction of active substances with molecular structures in stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the efficacy and safety of cosmetic formulations and topical drugs. However, the molecular architecture of SC is highly complex and methods to unambiguously localize exogenous molecules within SC are lacking. Consequently, little is known about the distribution of actives within SC, and proposed penetration mechanisms through SC are typically limited to simple diffusion via a tortuous (lipid only) or transverse (across corneocytes and lipid matrix) pathway. In this work, 3D mass spectrometry imaging is used to determine the spatial distributions of four active substances at subcellular resolution in SC, including partitioning between the corneocytes and the intercellular lipid matrix. The results indicate that caffeine, 2-methyl resorcinol and oxybenzone are homogeneously distributed in the corneocytes but largely absent in the lipid matrix, despite considerable differences in lipophilicity. In contrast, the distribution- of jasmonic acid derivative is more inhomogeneous and indicates considerable localization to both the lipid phase and the corneocytes.

Investigation of keratolytic impact of synthetic bolalipids on skin penetration of a model hydrophilic permeant

Synthetic single-chain bolalipids (SSCBs) are novel excipients in drug delivery, with potential as stabilizers or solubilizers. However, their impact on skin barrier function has not been comprehensively studied. Therefore, two SSCBs (PC-C24-PC and PC-C32-PC) were studied in aqueous systems for their impact on penetration of a model permeant into porcine skin. Concentrations of 0.05 - 5 % w/w were tested; PC-C24-PC formulations were low-viscosity liquids while PC-C32-PC formed viscous dispersions to gels at room temperature. Formulations were compared for their ability to enhance sodium fluorescein penetration (SF, 0.1 % w/w) into skin via tape stripping. Using NIR-densitometry, the effect of SSCB formulations on corneocyte cohesion was evaluated. Data were compared with phospholipid mixture Lipoid S-75, sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), and polyethylene glycol 12-hydroxystearate (PEG-HS), and distilled water as negative control. Contrary to the hypothesis, both SSCBs failed to increase SF penetration into the stratum corneum, but rather showed a significant decrease in penetration depth compared to water. Both SSCBs exhibited a keratolytic effect at 5 % w/w, leading to substantial removal of proteins from the skin surface. Consequently, SSCBs may not enhance penetration of hydrophilic drugs into skin, but could be used as keratolytic agents.

Polyglycerol-Functionalized β-Cyclodextrins as Crosslinkers in Thermoresponsive Nanogels for the Enhanced Dermal Penetration of Hydrophobic Drugs

Thermoresponsive nanogels (tNGs) are promising candidates for dermal drug delivery. However, poor incorporation of hydrophobic drugs into hydrophilic tNGs limits the therapeutic efficiency. To address this challenge, β-cyclodextrins (β-CD) are functionalized by hyperbranched polyglycerol serving as crosslinkers (hPG-βCD) to fabricate βCD-tNGs. This novel construct exhibits augmented encapsulation of hydrophobic drugs, shows the appropriate thermal response to dermal administration, and enhances the dermal penetration of payloads. The structural influences on the encapsulation capacity of βCD-tNGs for hydrophobic drugs are analyzed, while concurrently retaining their efficacy as skin penetration enhancers. Various synthetic parameters are considered, encompassing the acrylation degree and molecular weight of hPG-βCD, as well as the monomer composition of βCD-tNGs. The outcome reveals that βCD-tNGs substantially enhance the aqueous solubility of Nile Red elevating to 120 µg mL-1 and augmenting its dermal penetration up to 3.33 µg cm-2. Notably, the acrylation degree of hPG-βCD plays a significant role in dermal drug penetration, primarily attributed to the impact on the rigidity and hydrophilicity of βCD-tNGs. Taken together, the introduction of the functionalized β-CD as the crosslinker in tNGs presents a novel avenue to enhance the efficacy of hydrophobic drugs in dermatological applications, thereby offering promising opportunities for boosted therapeutic outcomes.

Unraveling UVB effects: Catalase activity and molecular alterations in the stratum corneum

AIM

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation can compromise the functionality of the skin barrier through various mechanisms. We hypothesize that UVB induce photochemical alterations in the components of the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum (SC), and modulate its antioxidative defense mechanisms. Catalase is a well-known antioxidative enzyme found in the SC where it acts to scavenge reactive oxygen species. However, a detailed characterization of acute UVB exposure on the activity of native catalase in the SC is lacking. Moreover, the effects of UVB irradiation on the molecular dynamics and organization of the SC keratin and lipid components remain unclear. Thus, the aim of this work is to characterize consequences of UVB exposure on the structural and antioxidative properties of catalase, as well as on the molecular and global properties of the SC matrix surrounding the enzyme.

EXPERIMENTS

The effect of UVB irradiation on the catalase function is investigated by chronoamperometry with a skin covered oxygen electrode, which probes the activity of native catalase in the SC matrix. Circular dichroism is used to explore changes of the catalase secondary structure, and gel electrophoresis is used to detect fragmentation of the enzyme following the UVB exposure. UVB induced alterations of the SC molecular dynamics and structural features of the SC barrier, as well as its water sorption behavior, are investigated by a complementary set of techniques, including natural abundance 13C polarization transfer solid-state NMR, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, and dynamic vapor sorption microbalance.

FINDINGS

The findings show that UVB exposure impairs the antioxidative function of catalase by deactivating both native catalase in the SC matrix and lyophilized catalase. However, UVB radiation does not alter the secondary structure of the catalase nor induce any observable enzyme fragmentation, which otherwise could explain deactivation of its function. NMR measurements on SC samples show a subtle increase in the molecular mobility of the terminal segments of the SC lipids, accompanied by a decrease in the mobility of lipid chain trans-gauche conformers after high doses of UVB exposure. At the same time, the NMR data suggest increased rigidity of the polypeptide backbone of the keratin filaments, while the molecular mobility of amino acid residues in random coil domains of keratin remain unaffected by UVB irradiation. The FTIR data show a consistent decrease in absorbance associated with lipid bond vibrations, relative to the main protein bands. Collectively, the NMR and FTIR data suggest a small modification in the composition of fluid and solid phases of the SC lipid and protein components after UVB exposure, unrelated to the hydration capacity of the SC tissue. To conclude, UVB deactivation of catalase is anticipated to elevate oxidative stress of the SC, which, when coupled with subtle changes in the molecular characteristics of the SC, may compromise the overall skin health and elevate the likelihood of developing skin disorders.

Topical drug delivery strategies for enhancing drug effectiveness by skin barriers, drug delivery systems and individualized dosing

Topical drug delivery is widely used in various diseases because of the advantages of not passing through the gastrointestinal tract, avoiding gastrointestinal irritation and hepatic first-pass effect, and reaching the lesion directly to reduce unnecessary adverse reactions. The skin helps the organism to defend itself against a huge majority of external aggressions and is one of the most important lines of defense of the body. However, the skin's strong barrier ability is also a huge obstacle to the effectiveness of topical medications. Allowing the bioactive, composition in a drug to pass through the stratum corneum barrier as needed to reach the target site is the most essential need for the bioactive, composition to exert its therapeutic effect. The state of the skin barrier, the choice of delivery system for the bioactive, composition, and individualized disease detection and dosing planning influence the effectiveness of topical medications. Nowadays, enhancing transdermal absorption of topically applied drugs is the hottest research area. However, enhancing transdermal absorption of drugs is not the first choice to improve the effectiveness of all drugs. Excessive transdermal absorption enhances topical drug accumulation at non-target sites and the occurrence of adverse reactions. This paper introduces topical drug delivery strategies to improve drug effectiveness from three perspectives: skin barrier, drug delivery system and individualized drug delivery, describes the current status and shortcomings of topical drug research, and provides new directions and ideas for topical drug research.

Skin-protective biological activities of bio-fermented Aframomum angustifolium extract by a consortium of microorganisms

Background: Aframomum sp. is a genus of plants in the Zingiberaceae family. It includes several species, some of which are used in cosmetics for their various properties, making them useful in skincare products, particularly for anti-aging, moisturizing, and brightening the skin. However, to date, there is no experimental evidence on its natural extracts obtained or modified using microorganisms (bio-fermentation) as an anti-aging agent. Objective: The present study aimed to evaluate the antiaging effect of a Bio-fermented Aframomum angustifolium (BAA) extract on 3D bioprinted skin equivalent. Methods: The consortium of microorganisms contained Komagataeibacter, Gluconobacter, Acetobacter, Saccharomyces, Torulaspora, Brettanomyces, Hanseniaspora, Leuconostoc, Lactobacillus, Schizosaccharomyces. It was developed on a media containing water, sugar, and infused black tea leaves. The seeds of Aframomum angustifolium previously grounded were mixed with the culture medium, and the ferments in growth; this fermentation step lasted 10 days. Then, the medium was collected and filtered (0.22 µm) to obtain the BAA extract. To enhance our comprehension of the impact of BAA extract on skin aging, we developed skin equivalents using bio-printing methods with the presence or absence of keratinocyte stem cells (KSC). These skin equivalents were derived from keratinocytes obtained from both a middle-aged donor, with and without KSC. Moreover, we examined the effects of treating the KSC-depleted skin equivalents with Bio-fermented Aframomum angustifolium (BAA) extract for 5 days. Skin equivalents containing KSC-depleted keratinocytes exhibited histological characteristics typical of aged skin and were compared to skin equivalents derived from young donors. Results: The BAA extract contained specific organic acids such as lactic, gluconic, succinic acid and polyphenols. KSC-depleted skin equivalents that were treated with BAA extract exhibited higher specular reflection, indicating better hydration of the stratum corneum, higher mitotic activity in the epidermis basal layer, improved dermal-epidermal connectivity, and increased rigidity of the dermal-epidermal junction compared to non-treated KSC-depleted equivalents. BAA extract treatments also resulted in changes at the dermis level, with an increase in total collagen and a decrease in global laxity, suggesting that this extract could help maintain youthful-looking skin. Conclusion: In summary, our findings indicated that BAA extract treatments have pleiotropic beneficial effects on skin equivalents and that the bio-fermentation provides new biological activities to this plant.

Polysaccharide hydrogel platforms as suitable carriers of liposomes and extracellular vesicles for dermal applications

Lipid-based nanocarriers have been extensively investigated for their application in drug delivery. Particularly, liposomes are now clinically established for treating various diseases such as fungal infections. In contrast, extracellular vesicles (EVs) - small cell-derived nanoparticles involved in cellular communication - have just recently sparked interest as drug carriers but their development is still at the preclinical level. To drive this development further, the methods and technologies exploited in the context of liposome research should be applied in the domain of EVs to facilitate and accelerate their clinical translation. One of the crucial steps for EV-based therapeutics is designing them as proper dosage forms for specific applications. This review offers a comprehensive overview of state-of-the-art polysaccharide-based hydrogel platforms designed for artificial and natural vesicles with application in drug delivery to the skin. We discuss their various physicochemical and biological properties and try to create a sound basis for the optimization of EV-embedded hydrogels as versatile therapeutic avenues.

Skin and Artificial Skin Models in Electrical Sensing Applications

Skin electrical properties play a significant role in recording biopotentials by using electrophysiological sensors. To test and evaluate sensor systems, it is commonly accepted to employ artificial skin models due to complications associated with testing on living tissues. The first goal of this Review is to provide a systematic understanding of the relation between skin structure and skin electrochemical behavior at an appropriate depth for electrophysiological sensing applications through a focus on skin structure, electrochemical properties of skin, and theoretical models (equivalent circuits) representing skin electrochemical behavior. The second goal is to review artificial skin models mimicking the electrochemical properties of skin and to give suggestions for future studies on relevant skin models based on a comparison between the behavior of skin and that of artificial skin models. The Review aims to help the reader to analyze the relation between the structure, elements of the equivalent circuits, and the resulting impedance data for both skin and artificial skin models.

Protective effects of red orange (Citrus sinensis [L.] Osbeck [Rutaceae]) extract against UVA-B radiation-induced photoaging in Skh:HR-2 mice

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

The skin is the outermost organ of the human body and plays a protective role against external environmental damages, such as sunlight and pollution, which affect anti-oxidant defenses and skin inflammation, resulting in erythema or skin reddening, immunosuppression, and epidermal DNA damage.

MATERIALS/METHODS

The present study aimed to investigate the potential protective effects of red orange complex H extract (ROC) against ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin photoaging in Skh:HR-2 mice. ROC was orally administered at doses of 20, 40, and 80 mg/kg/day for 13 weeks, along with UV irradiation of the mice for 10 weeks.

RESULTS

ROC improved UV-induced skin barrier parameters, including erythema, melanin production, transepidermal water loss, elasticity, and wrinkle formation. Notably, ROC inhibited the mRNA expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines (interleukin 6 and tumor necrosis factor α) and melanogenesis. In addition, ROC recovered the UV-induced decrease in the hyaluronic acid and collagen levels by enhancing genes expression. Furthermore, ROC significantly downregulated the protein and mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinases responsible for collagen degradation. These protective effects of ROC against photoaging are associated with the suppression of UV-induced phosphorylation of c-Jun NH2-terminal kinase and activator protein 1 activation.

CONCLUSIONS

Altogether, our findings suggest that the oral administration of ROC exerts potential protective activities against photoaging in UV-irradiated hairless mice.

Highlighting the hygroscopic capacities of apiogalacturonans

To meet the needs of dehydrated skin, molecules with a high hygroscopic potential are necessary to hydrate it effectively and durably. In this context, we were interested in pectins, and more precisely in apiogalacturonans (AGA), a singular one that is currently only found in a few species of aquatic plants. As key structures in water regulation of these aquatic plants and thanks to their molecular composition and conformations, we hypothesized that they could have beneficial role for skin hydration. Spirodela polyrhiza is a duckweed known to be naturally rich in AGA. The aim of this study was to investigate the hygroscopic potential of AGA. Firstly, AGA models were built based on structural information obtained from previous experimental studies. Molecular dynamics (MD) simulations were performed, and the hygroscopic potential was predicted in silico by analyzing the frequency of interaction of water molecules with each AGA residue. Quantification of interactions identified the presence of 23 water molecules on average in contact with each residue of AGA. Secondly, the hygroscopic properties were investigated directly in vivo. Indeed, the water capture in the skin was measured in vivo by Raman microspectroscopy thanks to the deuterated water (D₂0) tracking. Investigations revealed that AGA significantly capture and retain more water in the epidermis and deeper than a placebo control. Not only do these original natural molecules interact with water molecules, but they capture and retain them efficiently in the skin.

The Science of Skin: Measuring Damage and Assessing Risk

Significance: Healthy skin provides a barrier to contaminants. Breaches in skin integrity are often encountered in the patient health care journey, owing to intrinsic health issues or to various procedures and medical devices used. The time has come to move clinical practice beyond mere awareness of medical adhesive-related skin injury and toward improved care and outcomes. Recent Advances: Methods developed in research settings allow quantitative assessments of skin damage based on the measurement of baseline skin properties. These properties become altered by stress and over time. Assessment methods typically used by the cosmetic industry to compare product performance could offer new possibilities to improve clinical practice by providing better information on the status of patient skin. This review summarizes available skin assessment methods as well as specific patient risks for skin damage. Critical Issues: Patients in health care settings may be at risk for skin damage owing to predisposing medical conditions, health status, medications taken, and procedures or devices used in their treatment. Skin injuries come as an additional burden to these medical circumstances and could be prevented. Technology should be leveraged to improve care, help maintain patient skin health, and better characterize functional wound closure. Future Directions: Skin testing methods developed to evaluate cosmetic products or assess damage caused by occupational exposure can provide detailed, quantitative information on the integrity of skin. Such methods have the potential to guide prevention and treatment efforts to improve the care of patients suffering from skin integrity issues while in the health care system.

Beauty from within: Improvement of skin health and appearance with Lycomato a tomato-derived oral supplement

BACKROUND

Healthy and a youthful appearance is a common desire of the aging population. "Beauty from within" involves using nutrition and nutraceuticals to support skin function for reducing and reversing signs of aging such as wrinkles, pigmentary changes, skin laxity, and dullness. Carotenoids possess strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities and are effective in improving skin barrier and could thereby stimulate "beauty from within" by providing endogenous support to reduce the expressions of aging.

AIM

This study was designed to determine whether 3-month supplementation with Lycomato would improve skin condition.

METHOD

A panel of 50 female subjects used Lycomato capsules as nutritional supplements for 3 months. Skin status was observed via questionnaires for the assessment of skin condition and expert visual grading of facial markers such as wrinkles, tonality, roughness, laxity, and pore size. Skin barrier was assessed using transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Measurements were obtained before treatment and after 4 and 12 weeks of use.

RESULTS

Results indicated a statistically significant improvement (p < 0.05) in skin barrier as measured by TEWL after 12 weeks of consuming the supplement. There was also a significant improvement in skin tonality, lines and wrinkles, pore size, and skin firmness as observed by expert evaluation as well as subject self-assessment.

CONCLUSION

Based on the confines and conditions of this study, oral supplementation with Lycomato resulted in significant improvement in skin barrier. Visual appearance of lines and wrinkles, skin tonality, pores, smoothness, and firmness were considerably improved, and these improvements were found to be substantially discernible by the subjects.

Solubility of Foreign Molecules in Stratum Corneum Brick and Mortar Structure

The barrier function of the skin is mainly assured by its outermost layer, stratum corneum (SC). One key aspect in predicting dermal drug delivery and in safety assessment of skin exposure to chemicals is the need to determine the amount of chemical that is taken up into the SC. We here present a strategy that allows for direct measures of the amount of various solid chemicals that can be dissolved in the SC in any environmental relative humidity (RH). A main advantage of the presented method is that it distinguishes between molecules that are dissolved within the SC and molecules that are not dissolved but might be present at, for example, the skin surface. In addition, the method allows for studies of uptake of hydrophobic chemicals without the need to use organic solvents. The strategy relies on the differences in the molecular properties of the added molecules in the dissolved and the excess states, employing detection methods that act as a dynamic filter to spot only one of the fractions, either the dissolved molecules or the excess solid molecules. By measuring the solubility in SC and delipidized SC at the same RHs, the same method can be used to estimate the distribution of the added chemical between the extracellular lipids and corneocytes at different hydration conditions. The solubility in porcine SC is shown to vary with hydration, which has implications for the molecular uptake and transport across the skin. The findings highlight the importance of assessing the chemical uptake at hydration conditions relevant to the specific applications. The methodology presented in this study can also be generalized to study the solubility and partitioning of chemicals in other heterogeneous materials with complex composition and structure.

Mesoscopic Monitoring of Human Skin Explants Viscoelastic Properties

The investigation of the mechanical properties of skin is of great interest for monitoring physiological and pathological changes in the cutaneous barrier function for dermatological and cosmetic issues. Skin constitutes a complex tissue because of its multi-layered organisation. From a rheological point of view, it can be considered to be a soft tissue with viscoelastic properties. In order to characterise ex vivo mechanical properties of skin on the mesoscopic scale, a biosensor including a thickness shear mode transducer (TSM) in contact with a skin explant was used. A specific experimental set-up was developed to monitor continuously and in real-time human skin explants, including the dermis and the epidermis. These were kept alive for up to 8 days. Skin viscoelastic evolutions can be quantified with a multi-frequency impedance measurement (from 5 MHz to 45 MHz) combined with a dedicated fractional calculus model. Two relevant parameters for the non-destructive mesoscopic characterisation of skin explants were extracted: the structural parameter αapp and the apparent viscosity ηapp. In this study, the validity of the biosensor, including repeatability and viability, was controlled. A typical signature of the viscoelastic evolutions of the different cutaneous layers was identified. Finally, monitoring was carried out on stripped explants mimicking a weakened barrier function.

Molecular Structure and Dynamics in Wet Gecko β-Keratin

Molecular dynamics simulations are performed to investigate the molecular picture of water sorption in gecko keratin and the influence of relative humidity (RH) on the local structure and dynamics in water-swollen keratin. At low RHs, water sorption occurs through hydrogen bonding of water with the hydrophilic groups of keratin. At high RHs (>80%), additional water molecules connect to the first "layer" of amide-connected water molecules (multimolecular sorption) through hydrogen bonds, giving rise to a sigmoidal shape of the sorption isotherm. This causes the formation of large chain-like clusters surrounding the hydrophilic groups of keratin, which upon a further increase of the RH form a percolating water network. An examination of the dynamics of water molecules sorbed in keratin demonstrates that there are two states, bound and free, for water. The dynamics of water in these states depends on the RH. At low RHs, large-scale translational motions of tightly bound water molecules to keratin are needed to remake the entire hydration shell of the keratin. At high RHs (>80%), the water molecules more quickly exchange between the two states. The center-of-mass mean-square displacement of water molecules indicates a hopping motion of water molecules in the keratin solvation shell. The hopping mechanism is more pronounced at RHs < 80%. At higher RHs, water translation through water clusters (water network) dominates. We have observed two regimes for the dependence of dynamical properties on the RH: a regime of gradual increase of the dynamics over 10% < RH < 80% and a regime of drastic dynamic acceleration at RH > 80%. The latter regime begins exactly where the water uptake and the volume swelling also increase much more and where a drastic change in the elastic properties of gecko keratin has been observed. A nearly linear relation between the relaxation times for all dynamical processes and the water content of gecko keratin is observed.

Rosa gallica and its active compound, cyanidin-3,5-O-diglucoside, improve skin hydration via the GLK signaling pathway

Rosa gallica has been previously reported to display anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative, and anti-skin wrinkle activities. However, the effect of Rosa gallica on skin hydration and its active components are largely unknown. Herein, we aimed to investigate the skin hydration effect of rose petal extract (RPE) in humans and elucidate the underlying molecular mechanism. A double-blinded clinical study was performed to investigate the effect of RPE on skin hydration. Stratum corneum moisture analysis demonstrated that RPE treatment significantly improved hydration levels in human skin. Furthermore, HAS2 and hyaluronic acid levels were notably increased by RPE in keratinocytes and 3D human skin equivalent model. By comparing the modulatory effect on HAS2 expression, cyanidin-3,5-O-diglucoside (CDG) was identified as the most potent compound in RPE likely responsible for skin hydration. The kinase activity of GLK, an upstream regulator of MAPK signaling, was increased by CDG in a dose-dependent manner. Importantly, silencing GLK reversed CDG-mediated HAS2 upregulation, further supporting the involvement of GLK in the CDG-mediated effects. Binding of CDG to GLK was confirmed by pull-down assay and computer modeling. These findings suggest that RPE and its active component CDG increases skin hydration by upregulating HAS2 expression through modulating the GLK-MAP2K-MAPK signaling pathway.

Thermodynamic and kinetic analysis of human epidermal penetration of phenolic compounds: I. Stratum corneum solubility and partitioning

Warming of the skin is now an accepted means of promoting skin permeation. Accordingly, the usually quite onerous thermodynamic studies on solute transport through the skin have practical applications. Phenolic compounds permeate through the skin by partitioning into and diffusing through the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular lipids, with their size being the main determinant of their maximal solute flux through skin. This paper sought to characterise the enthalpic and entropic changes associated with the solubility and equilibrium partitioning into the human SC of a series of phenols similar in size but with differing log P from aqueous vehicles. The solubilities of 9 phenolic compounds, covering a range of polarities, were determined in water and SC following 72 h at 4, 24, 32 and 37 °C which allowed the estimation of the SC-water partition coefficients. Van't Hoff plots were then used to estimate the enthalpies and entropies for the SC solubility, water solubility and SC partitioning of phenols. In addition, partition coefficients of 3 of the 9 phenols from mineral oil into hydrated and dehydrated SC were measured at the same temperatures. Van't Hoff plots were then used to estimate the enthalpies and entropies for the SC solubility, water solubility and SC partitioning of phenols from the oil. The SC solubility for the polar phenols increased more with temperature than the non-polar phenols, with the SC-water partition coefficients increasing with temperature for the polar phenols but decreasing with temperature for the non-polar phenols. Thermodynamic analyses suggest that, while enthalpy and entropy effects are involved in the SC partitioning of the non-polar solutes, the SC partitioning of the polar phenols were almost entirely entropy driven. The resultant thermodynamic parameters are consistent with the polar phenols being mainly associated with the SC polar head groups whereas the nonpolar phenols were more likely to be located in the interior interface SC lipid region adjacent to the polar head groups. Further, hydrating the SC led to an increase in the enthalpy of partitioning for both the polar and non-polar phenols studied. The estimated entropy of the partitioning for solutes from dehydrated SC suggests this is not only a hydrophobic effect in water but that the partitioning arises from the nature of phenolic compound - SC intercellular lipid interactions and SC intercellular lipid entropy. This partitioning process is dominated more by the extent of interaction between the SC and solute than the hydrophobic effect in water and is likely to be even greater above the SC lipid phase transition at around 36 °C for hydrated epidermal membranes.

Treating allergies via skin - Recent advances in cutaneous allergen immunotherapy

Subcutaneous allergen immunotherapy has been practiced clinically for decades to treat airborne allergies. Recently, the cutaneous route, which exploits the immunocompetence of the skin has received attention, which is evident from attempts to use it to treat peanut allergy. Delivery of allergens into the skin is inherently impeded by the barrier imposed by stratum corneum, the top layer of the skin. While the stratum corneum barrier must be overcome for efficient allergen delivery, excessive disruption of this layer can predispose to development of allergic inflammation. Thus, the most desirable allergen delivery approach must provide a balance between the level of skin disruption and the amount of allergen delivered. Such an approach should aim to achieve high allergen delivery efficiency across various skin types independent of age and ethnicity, and optimize variables such as safety profile, allergen dosage, treatment frequency, application time and patient compliance. The ability to precisely quantify the amount of allergen being delivered into the skin is crucial since it can allow for allergen dose optimization and can promote consistency and reproducibility in treatment response. In this work we review prominent cutaneous delivery approaches, and offer a perspective on further improvisation in cutaneous allergen-specific immunotherapy.

Water uptake by gecko β-keratin and the influence of relative humidity on its mechanical and volumetric properties

Grand canonical ensemble molecular dynamics simulations are done to calculate the water content of gecko β-keratin as a function of relative humidity (RH). For comparison, we experimentally measured the water uptake of scales of the skin of cobra Naja nigricollis. The calculated sigmoidal sorption isotherm is in good agreement with experiment. To examine the softening effect of water on gecko keratin, we have calculated the mechanical properties of dry and wet keratin samples, and we have established relations between the mechanical properties and the RH. We found that a higher RH causes a decrease in the Young's modulus, the yield stress, the yield strain, the stress at failure and an increase in the strain at failure of the gecko keratin. At low RHs (less than 80%), the change in the mechanical properties is small, with most of the changes occurring at higher RHs. The changes in the macroscopic properties of the keratin are explained by the action of sorbed water on the molecular scale. It causes keratin to swell, thereby increasing the distances between amino acids. This has a weakening effect on amino acid interactions and softens the keratin material. The effect is more pronounced at higher RHs.

Structural and Functional Analysis of Excised Skins and Human Reconstructed Epidermis with Confocal Raman Spectroscopy and in Microfluidic Diffusion Chambers

Several ex vivo and in vitro skin models are available in the toolbox of dermatological and cosmetic research. Some of them are widely used in drug penetration testing. The excised skins show higher variability, while the in vitro skins provide more reproducible data. The aim of the current study was to compare the chemical composition of different skin models (excised rat skin, excised human skin and human-reconstructed epidermis) by measurement of ceramides, cholesterol, lactate, urea, protein and water at different depths of the tissues. The second goal was to compile a testing system, which includes a skin-on-a-chip diffusion setup and a confocal Raman spectroscopy for testing drug diffusion across the skin barrier and accumulation in the tissue models. A hydrophilic drug caffeine and the P-glycoprotein substrate quinidine were used in the study as topical cream formulations. The results indicate that although the transdermal diffusion of quinidine is lower, the skin accumulation was comparable for the two drugs. The various skin models showed different chemical compositions. The human skin was abundant in ceramides and cholesterol, while the reconstructed skin contained less water and more urea and protein. Based on these results, it can be concluded that skin-on-a-chip and confocal Raman microspectroscopy are suitable for testing drug penetration and distribution at different skin layers within an exposition window. Furthermore, obese human skin should be treated with caution for skin absorption testing due to its unbalanced composition.

Biodegradable core-multishell nanocarrier: Topical tacrolimus delivery for treatment of dermatitis

Two challenges in topical drug delivery to the skin include solubilizing hydrophobic drugs in water-based formulations and increasing drug penetration into the skin. Polymeric core-multishell nanocarrier (CMS), particularly the novel biodegradable CMS (bCMS = hPG-PCL_1.1K-mPEG_2k-CMS) have shown both advantages on excised skin ex vivo. Here, we investigated topical delivery of tacrolimus (TAC; > 500 g/mol) by bCMS in a hydrogel on an oxazolone-induced model of dermatitis in vivo. As expected, bCMS successfully delivered TAC into the skin. However, in vivo they did not increase, but decrease TAC penetration through the stratum corneum compared to ointment. Differences in the resulting mean concentrations were mostly non-significant in the skin (epidermis: 35.7 ± 20.9 ng/cm² for bCMS vs. 92.6 ± 62.7 ng/cm² for ointment; dermis: 76.8 ± 26.8 ng/cm²vs 118.2 ± 50.4 ng/cm²), but highly significant in blood (plasma: 1.1 ± 0.4 ng/ml vs 11.3 ± 9.3 ng/ml; erythrocytes: 0.5 ± 0.2 ng/ml vs 3.4 ± 2.4 ng/ml) and liver (0.01 ± 0.01 ng/mg vs 0.03 ± 0.01 ng/mg). bCMS were detected in the stratum corneum but not in viable skin or beyond. The therapeutic efficacy of TAC delivered by bCMS was equivalent to that of standard TAC ointment. Our results suggest that bCMS may be a promising carrier for the topical delivery of TAC. The quantitative difference to previous results should be interpreted in light of structural differences between murine and human skin, but highlights the need as well as potential methods to develop more a complex ex vivo analysis on human skin to ensure quantitative predictive value.

Mechanisms and Implications of Bacterial Invasion across the Human Skin Barrier

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with a deficiency of skin lipids, increased populations of Staphylococcus aureus in the microbiome, and structural defects in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of human skin. However, the pathogenesis of AD is ambiguous, as it is unclear whether observed changes are the result of AD or contribute to the pathogenesis of the disease. Previous studies have shown that S. aureus is capable of permeating across isolated human SC tissue when lipids are depleted to levels consistent with AD conditions. In this study, we expand upon this discovery to determine the mechanisms and implications of bacterial penetration into the SC barrier. Specifically, we establish if bacteria are permeating intercellularly or employing a combination of both inter- and intracellular travel. The mechanical implications of bacterial invasion, lipid depletion, and media immersion are also evaluated using a newly developed, physiologically relevant, temperature-controlled drip chamber. Results reveal for the first time that S. aureus can be internalized by corneocytes, indicating transcellular movement through the tissue during permeation, consistent with previous theoretical models. S. aureus also degrades the mechanical integrity of human SC, particularly when the tissue is partially depleted of lipids. These observed mechanical changes are likely the cause of broken or ruptured tissue seen as exudative lesions in AD flares. This work further highlights the necessity of lipids in skin microbial barrier function.

IMPORTANCE Millions of people suffer from the chronic inflammatory skin disease atopic dermatitis (AD), whose symptoms are associated with a deficiency of skin lipids that exhibit antimicrobial functions and increased populations of the opportunistic pathogen Staphylococcus aureus. However, the pathogenesis of AD is ambiguous, and it remains unclear if these observed changes are merely the result of AD or contribute to the pathogenesis of the disease. In this article, we demonstrate the necessity of skin lipids in preventing S. aureus from penetrating the outermost barrier of human skin, thereby causing a degradation in tissue integrity. This bacterial permeation into the viable epidermis could act as an inflammatory trigger of the disease. When coupled with delipidated AD tissue conditions, bacterial permeation can also explain increased tissue fragility, potentially causing lesion formation in AD patients that results in further enhancing bacterial permeability across the stratum corneum and the development of chronic conditions.

Potential Mechanisms of the Sparing of Atopic Dermatitis in the Diaper Region: A Scoping Review

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic, inflammatory skin condition commonly affecting infants with notable sparing of the diaper region. Though sources anecdotally attribute this sparing to the physical barrier formed by the diaper and the subsequent retention of moisture, urine, sweat and feces, no studies have formally investigated the factors contributing to this sparing phenomenon. We performed a scoping literature review to investigate the factors involved in sparing of AD in the diaper region, namely humidity, scratching, urine, sweat, feces, and microbiome composition. A total of 130 papers met the inclusion criteria, and extracted data were analyzed in an iterative manner. Increased local humidity facilitates protective changes at the cellular level and offsets transepidermal water loss. Exposure to urea from both sweat and urine may contribute to improved moisturization of the skin through its natural humectant properties and ability to modulate gene expression. Introduction of flora in feces contributes to the generation of protective immune responses and outcompetes growth of pathogens such as Staphylococcus aureus. Finally, diapers physically prevent scratching, which directly interrupts the itch-scratch cycle classically implicated in AD. Our study reviews factors that may contribute to the sparing of AD in the diaper region in infants. A limitation to our findings is that the studies reviewed here explore the impacts of these factors on AD broadly, and not explicitly in the diaper region. Additional studies investigating this may further our understanding of AD pathogenesis and contribute to the development of effective therapeutics.

The effects of glycols on molecular mobility, structure, and permeability in stratum corneum

The skin provides an attractive alternative to the conventional drug administration routes. Still, it comes with challenges as the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), provides an efficient barrier against permeation of most compounds. One way to overcome the skin barrier is to apply chemical permeation enhancers, which can modify the SC structure. In this paper, we investigated the molecular effect of three different types of glycols in SC: dipropylene glycol (diPG), propylene glycol (PG), and butylene glycol (BG). The aim is to understand how these molecules influence the molecular mobility and structure of the SC components, and to relate the molecular effects to the efficiency of these molecules as permeation enhancers. We used complementary experimental techniques, including natural abundance ¹³C NMR spectroscopy and wide-angle X-ray diffraction to characterize the molecular consequences of these compounds at different doses in SC at 97% RH humidity and 32 °C. In addition, we study the permeation enhancing effects of the same glycols in comparable conditions using Raman spectroscopy. Based on the results from NMR, we conclude that all three glycols cause increased mobility in SC lipids, and that the addition of glycols has an effect on the keratin filaments in similar manner as Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). The highest mobility of both lipids and amino acids can be reached with BG, which is followed by PG. It is also shown that one reaches an apparent saturation level for all three chemicals in SC, after which increased addition of the compound does not lead to further increase in the mobility of SC lipids or protein components. The examination with Raman mapping show that BG and PG give a significant permeation enhancement as compared to SC without any added glycol at corresponding conditions. Finally, we observe a non-monotonic response in permeation enhancement with respect to the concentration of glycols, where the highest concentration does not give the highest permeation. This is explained by the dehydration effects at highest glycol concentrations. In summary, we find a good correlation between the molecular effects of glycols on the SC lipid and protein mobility, and macroscopic permeation enhances of the same molecules.

Simultaneous Physico-Mechanical and In Vivo Assessment towards Factual Skin Performance Profile of Topical Polymeric Film-Forming Systems

Topical film-forming systems (FFS) change drastically after solvent displacement, therefore indicating their skin metamorphosis/transformation as a property of special regulatory and research interest. This paper deals with the lack of suitable characterization techniques, suggesting a set of methods able to provide a comprehensive notion of FFS skin performance. After screening the physico-chemical, mechanical and sensory properties of FFS and resulting films, an elaborate three-phase in vivo study was performed, covering skin irritation, friction and substantivity. Upon removal of 24-hour occlusion, no significant change in erythema index was observed, while the film-former type (cellulose ether, acrylate and/or vinyl polymer) affected transepidermal water loss (TEWL); hydrophobic methacrylate copolymer-based samples decreased TEWL by 40–50%, suggesting a semi-occlusive effect. Although both the tribological parameters related to the friction coefficient and the friction curve’s plateau provided valuable data, their analysis indicated the importance of the moment the plateau is reached as the onset of the secondary formulation, while the tertiary state is still best described by the completion of the film’s drying time. The final part of the in vivo study proved the high in-use substantivity of all samples but confirmed the optimal 4:1 ratio of hydrophobic cationic and hydrophilic polymers, as indicated during early physico-mechanical screening.

Toward closed-loop drug delivery: Integrating wearable technologies with transdermal drug delivery systems

The recent advancement and prevalence of wearable technologies and their ability to make digital measurements of vital signs and wellness parameters have triggered a new paradigm in the management of diseases. Drug delivery as a function of stimuli or response from wearable, closed-loop systems can offer real-time on-demand or preprogrammed drug delivery capability and offer total management of disease states. Here we review the key opportunities in this space for development of closed-loop systems, given the advent of digital wearable technologies. Particular considerations and focus are given to closed-loop systems combined with transdermal drug delivery technologies.

Hyaluronic acid/tannic acid hydrogel sunscreen with excellent anti-UV, antioxidant, and cooling effects

Excessive exposure to UV radiation is one of the major factors that causes skin aging, erythema, burns, and skin cancer. Recently, the usage of sunscreens for skin protection has increased because the amount of UV radiation reaching the Earth's surface has increased owing to the destruction of the ozone layer that blocks UV radiation. Hydrogels with a three-dimensional network structure exhibit physical and chemical properties that are similar to those of the extracellular matrix in the human body, a high water content, flexibility, and biocompatibility. Therefore, they are applied in a wide range of fields, such as in cosmetics, medicines, and pharmaceuticals. However, conventional hydrogel-based sunscreens have drawbacks such as complicated process conditions, high cost, and low biocompatibility. In this study, a novel hydrogel-type sunscreen with excellent UV protection and cooling effects was prepared by a very simple process using two natural materials, hyaluronic acid (HA) and tannic acid (TA). The HA/TA hydrogels exhibited broad-spectrum UV protection in the UVA and UVB regions (280-360 nm). In addition, they showed excellent adhesion to the skin surface, antioxidative activity, cooling effect, and high moisture content, demonstrating great application potential as a hydrogel-type sunscreen.

Does skin permeation kinetics influence efficacy of topical dermal drug delivery system?: Assessment, prediction, utilization, and integration of chitosan biomacromolecule for augmenting topical dermal drug delivery in skin

Skin permeation is an integral part of penetration of topical therapeutics. Zero order in addition to Higuchi permeation kinetic is usually preferred in topical drug delivery cargo. Penetration of therapeutic entities through epidermal barrier is a major challenge for scientific fraternity. Furthermore, penetration of therapeutic entities determines the transportation and ultimately therapeutic efficacy of topical dermal dosage forms. Apart from experimentation models, mathematical equations, in silico docking, molecular dynamics (MDs), and artificial neural network (Neural) techniques are being used to assess free energies and prediction of electrostatic attractions in order to predict the permeation phenomena of therapeutic entities. Therefore, in the present review, we have summarized the significance of kinetic equations, in silico docking, MDs, and ANN in assessing and predicting the penetration behavior of topical therapeutics through dermal dosage form. In addition, the role of chitosan biomacromolecule in modulating permeation of topical therapeutics in skin has also been illustrated using computational techniques.

Mechanical properties of whole-body soft human tissues: a review

The mechanical properties of soft tissues play a key role in studying human injuries and their mitigation strategies. While such properties are indispensable for computational modelling of biological systems, they serve as important references in loading and failure experiments, and also for the development of tissue simulants. To date, experimental studies have measured the mechanical properties of peripheral tissues (e.g. skin)in-vivoand limited internal tissuesex-vivoin cadavers (e.g. brain and the heart). The lack of knowledge on a majority of human tissues inhibit their study for applications ranging from surgical planning, ballistic testing, implantable medical device development, and the assessment of traumatic injuries. The purpose of this work is to overcome such challenges through an extensive review of the literature reporting the mechanical properties of whole-body soft tissues from head to toe. Specifically, the available linear mechanical properties of all human tissues were compiled. Non-linear biomechanical models were also introduced, and the soft human tissues characterized using such models were summarized. The literature gaps identified from this work will help future biomechanical studies on soft human tissue characterization and the development of accurate medical models for the study and mitigation of injuries.

A Biomimetic Combination of Actives Enhances Skin Hydration and Barrier Function via Modulation of Gene Expression: Results of Two Double-Blind, Vehicle-Controlled Clinical Studies

INTRODUCTION

Xerosis cutis is characterized by a decreased stratum corneum (SC) hydration and an impaired skin barrier function. Urea, the most prevalent natural moisturizing factor (NMF), is currently considered the gold standard. Its efficacy can further be increased by combining urea with other NMF and skin barrier lipids (SBLs).

OBJECTIVE

We set out to evaluate physiological effects of a novel functional moisturizer containing 10% urea, additional NMF components, and a combination of SBLs on skin hydration and skin barrier integrity on a cellular and phenotypic level in female volunteers suffering from xerosis.

METHODS

Two double-blind, vehicle-controlled clinical studies were conducted. In the first study, 44 female subjects having very dry body skin applied the moisturizer or its vehicle twice daily to their volar forearms. Twenty-four hours after a single product application as well as 24 h after 2 weeks of treatment, SC hydration was measured by corneometry. Skin barrier function was assessed by transepidermal water loss 24 h and 48 h after 2 weeks of regular use. Twenty-four hours after 2 weeks of application, skin tape stripping was performed, and urea content was determined in the 3rd strip by means of high-performance liquid chromatography/tandem mass spectrometry. In the second study, 22 women with self-reported very dry skin applied the moisturizer or vehicle twice daily to their volar forearms for 2 weeks. Then, suction blister samples were obtained for gene expression analysis using RT-PCR.

RESULTS

Application of the actives led to significantly improved skin hydration and barrier function at all points in time. Compared to the vehicle, application of the moisturizer for 2 weeks resulted in a significant increase in SC urea content. Relative gene expression data revealed significant upregulation of genes associated with skin barrier function, hydration, differentiation, and lipid metabolism compared to the vehicle-treated area.

CONCLUSIONS

Overall, our data demonstrate that the functional moisturizer provides an adequate bioavailability of urea and a beneficial biophysical impact on xerotic skin. Topical treatment with a combination of urea and additional NMF as well as SBL can modify mRNA expression of important epidermal genes stimulating cellular processes and functions. The well-tolerated novel functional moisturizer stimulates molecular mechanisms involved in skin hydration and barrier function and is a profoundly effective treatment option for xerosis cutis.

Development, Characterization, and Clinical Investigation of a New Topical Emulsion System Containing a Castanea sativa Spiny Burs Active Extract

The study focused on the development and characterization of an O/W emulsion for skincare containing Castanea sativa spiny burs extract (CSE) as functional agent. The emulsion was stable and had suitable physicochemical and technological properties for dermal application and CSE showed no cytotoxicity in spontaneously immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) at active concentrations. A single-blind, placebo-controlled, monocentric study was designed to evaluate the skin tolerability and the skin performance of the CSE-loaded emulsion on healthy human volunteers. An improvement was observed in skin biomechanical properties such as hydration, skin elasticity and a reduction in the periorbital wrinkles in 30 days without altering the skin barrier function, sebum, pH, and erythema values. A significant skin moisturizing effect was detected while the skin barrier function was preserved. The selected natural ingredient combined with the designed formulation and the optimized preparation method has led to a final product that satisfies the physico-chemical and technological requirements underlying the safety of use and the formulative stability over time. With no negative skin reactions and highly significant effects on skin elasticity, wrinkles, and moisturization, the CSE-based emulsion achieved very satisfying outcomes representing a promising functional formulation for skin care.

Transdermal Delivery of Macromolecules Using Nano Lipid Carriers

Skin being the largest external organ, offers an appealing procedure for transdermal drug delivery, so the drug needs to reach above the outermost layer of the skin, i.e., stratum corneum. Small molecular drug entities obeying the Lipinski rule, i.e., drugs having a molecular weight less than 500 Da, high lipophilicity, and optimum polarity, are favored enough to be used on the skin as therapeutics. Skin's barrier properties prevent the transport of macromolecules at pre-determined therapeutic rates. Notable advancements in macromolecules' transdermal delivery have occurred in recent years. Scientists have opted for liposomes, the use of electroporation, low-frequency ultrasound techniques, etc. Some of these have shown better delivery of macromolecules at clinically beneficial rates. These physical technologies involve complex mechanisms, which may irreversibly incur skin damage. Majorly, two types of lipid-based formulations, including Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLNs) and Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLCs), are widely investigated as transdermal delivery systems. In this review, the concepts, mechanisms, and applications of nanostructured lipid carriers used to transport macromolecules via transdermal routes are thoroughly reviewed and presented along with their clinical perspective.

Effect of soak and smear on [14C]-hydrocortisone in vitro human skin percutaneous penetration

INTRODUCTION

'Soak and smear' method, water soaking to induce skin hydration followed by topical corticoids application suggests effectiveness in clinical dermatological practice. We investigate one possible mechanism of soaking times effect on drug partitioning and diffusion rates in skin and its proposed efficacy.

METHODS

Utilizing an in vitro flow-through diffusion system to evaluate efficacy of the 'soak and smear' method following 0.5, 8, and 20 min water soaking and [¹⁴C]-hydrocortisone topical application on human skin to probe the possibility of percutaneous penetration enhancement.

RESULTS

In water-soak groups, more [¹⁴C]-hydrocortisone was absorbed and retained in stratum corneum and epidermis, whereas, in the control (no soak) more was in the deep skin-dermis and receptor fluid. These differences between water-soak groups and the control are statistically significant (p < .05).

CONCLUSION

Effect of 'soak and smear' on skin absorption and penetration depends on interaction of individual drug's physicochemical property, stratum corneum hydration, and stratum corneum-epidermoid barrier status. Water soaking (≤ 20 min) induced skin hydration increases [¹⁴C]-hydrocortisone absorption and retention into the upper skin layer but not deep layers. This could support the proposed hypothesis of clinical dermatological treatment of hydrocortisone to local skin inflammations should the epidermis be found to be a key target for atopic dermatitis therapy.

How to control interactions of cellulose-based biomaterials with skin: the role of acidity in the contact area

Being able to control the interactions of biomaterials with living tissues and skin is highly desirable for many biomedical applications. This is particularly the case for cellulose-based materials which provide one of the most versatile platforms for tissue engineering due to their strength, biocompatibility and abundance. Achieving such control, however, requires detailed molecular-level knowledge of the dominant interaction mechanisms. Here, we employed both biased and unbiased atomic-scale molecular dynamics simulations to explore how cellulose crystals interact with model stratum corneum bilayers, ternary mixtures of ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. Our findings show that acidity in the contact area directly affects binding between cellulose and the stratum corneum bilayer: Protonation of free fatty acids in the bilayer promotes attractive cellulose-bilayer interactions. We identified two major factors that control the cellulose-skin interactions: (i) the electrostatic repulsion between a cellulose crystal and the charged (anionic due to deprotonated fatty acids) surface of a stratum corneum bilayer and (ii) the cellulose-stratum corneum hydrogen bonding. When less than half of the fatty acids in the bilayer are protonated, the first factor dominates and there is no binding to skin. At a larger degree of fatty acid protonation the cellulose-stratum corneum hydrogen bonding prevails yielding a tight binding. Remarkably, we found that ceramide molecules are the key component in hydrogen bonding with cellulose. Overall, our findings highlight the critical role of fatty acid protonation in biomaterial-stratum corneum interactions and can be used for optimizing the surface properties of cellulose-based materials aimed at biomedical applications such as wound dressings.

Extraction of natural moisturizing factor from the stratum corneum and its implication on skin molecular mobility

The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a mixture of small water-soluble compounds present in the upper layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC). Soaking of SC in water leads to extraction of the NMF molecules, which may influence the SC molecular properties and lead to brittle and dry skin. In this study, we investigate how the molecular dynamics in SC lipid and protein components are affected by the removal of the NMF compounds. We then explore whether the changes in SC components caused by NMF removal can be reversed by a subsequent addition of one single NMF component: urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) or potassium lactate. Samples of intact SC were investigated using NMR, X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy and sorption microbalance. It is shown that the removal of NMF leads to reduced molecular mobility in keratin filaments and SC lipids compared to untreated SC. When the complex NMF mixture is replaced by one single NMF component, the molecular mobility in both keratin filaments and lipids is regained. From this we propose a general relation between the molecular mobility in SC and the amount of polar solutes which does not appear specific to the precise chemical identify of the NMF compounds.

Characterization of a New Full-Thickness In Vitro Skin Model

Since 30 years, bioengineering allowed to reconstruct human tissues using normal human cells. Skin is one of the first organ to be reconstructed thanks to the development of specific cell culture media and supports favoring the culture of human skin cells, such as fibroblasts, keratinocytes, or melanocytes. Skin models have evolved from epidermis to complex models including a dermis. The purpose of the present study was to design a reconstructed full-thickness (FT) skin suitable to perform in vitro testing of both molecules and plant extracts. First, we reconstructed epidermis with normal human keratinocytes displaying the expected multilayered morphology and expressing specific epidermal proteins (e-cadherin, claudin-1, p63, Ki67, Keratin 10, filaggrin, and loricrin). Then, a dermal equivalent was developed using a collagen matrix allowing the growth of fibroblasts. The functionality of the dermis was demonstrated by the measurement of skin parameters such as rigidity or elasticity with Ballistometer^® and other parameters such as the contraction over time and the expression of dermal proteins. The combination of these two compartments (dermis and epidermis) allowed to reconstruct an FT model. This study model allowed to study the communication between compartments and with the establishment of a dermoepidermal junction showing the expression of specific proteins (collagen XVII, laminin, and collagen IV). Impact statement The objective of our research project was to design a three-dimensional human full-thickness (FT) skin suitable to perform in vitro testing of molecules and plant ingredients. The combination of these two reconstructed compartments (dermis and epidermis) allowed to reconstruct an FT model. This study model allowed to study the communication between compartments and with the establishment of a dermoepidermal junction showing the expression of specific proteins (collagen XVII, laminin, and collagen IV). This in vitro model can be use by cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries to study the effect of chemical or natural compounds on the skin.

Spectroscopy of excised skin patches exposed to THz and far-IR radiation

Applications of far infrared (Far-IR) and terahertz (THz) radiation in areas such as healthcare and security are fast-growing. As a consequence, humans and the environment are becoming more exposed to mm-wave and Far-IR radiation than previously. We examined typical skin-care and sunscreen ingredients and propitiatory products with transmission FTIR, ATR-FTIR and THz-time domain spectroscopy (THz-TDS) methods using fresh and dehydrated toad and fresh human skin samples for their absorption properties in these frequency ranges. The skin hydration compounds glycerol and sorbitol have comparable absorption characteristics to physiological bulk water. Products containing these and similar hydrating compounds have significant Far-IR absorption characteristics. The sunscreen ingredients ZnO (20 micron), TiO2 (mesh 325), and graphene platelet demonstrate a generally poor Far-IR absorbance, with TiO2 displaying some frequency-specific absorption in the 3-6 THz and 12 THz regions. The Far-IR absorbance of proprietary sunscreens was, however, shown not to be significant. The absorption properties of melanin, collagen, bound water, and other constituents are significant in dehydrated skin samples but are not of the same order of importance as the hydrating agents examined.

Skin hydration as a tool to control the distribution and molecular effects of intermediate polarity compounds in intact stratum corneum

The barrier function of the skin is mainly assured by its outermost layer, stratum corneum (SC), which consists of dead keratin-filled cells embedded in a lipid matrix. The skin is daily exposed to an environment with changing conditions in terms of hydration and different chemicals. Here we investigate how a molecule that has reasonable solubility in both hydrophobic and hydrophilic environments can be directed to certain regions in SC by changing the skin hydration. We use 1,2,3-trimethoxy propane (TMP) as a model substance and solid-state NMR on natural abundance ¹³C to obtain atomically resolved information on the molecular dynamics of TMP as well as SC lipid and protein components at varying hydration conditions. Upon dehydration, TMP redistributes from the hydrophilic corneocytes to the hydrophobic SC lipid regions. In this way, TMP can act to prevent the fluid-solid lipid transition in drying conditions and be present in the corneocytes in more humid conditions. Hydration can thereby be used as a switch to control the location and action of TMP or similar compounds in complex materials like SC. The general principles described here can also have impact on other applications including lipid-based formulations in food, drug delivery and cosmetics.

Dietary Collagen Hydrolysates Ameliorate Furrowed and Parched Skin Caused by Photoaging in Hairless Mice

Collagen hydrolysates have been suggested as a favorable antiaging modality in skin photoaged by persistent exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV). The current study evaluated the beneficial effect of collagen hydrolysates (fsCH) extracted from Pangasius hypophthalmus fish skin on wrinkle formation and moisture preservation in dorsal skin of hairless mice challenged with UV-B. Inter-comparative experiments were conducted for anti-photoaging among fsCH, retinoic acid (RA), N-acetyl-D-glucosamine (NAG), and glycine-proline-hydroxyproline (GPH). Treating human HaCaT keratinocytes with 100−200 μg/mL fsCH reciprocally ameliorated the expression of aquaporin 3 (AQP3) and CD44 deranged by UV-B. The UV-B-induced deep furrows and skin thickening were improved in parched dorsal skin of mice supplemented with 206–412 mg/kg fsCH as well as RA and GPH. The UV-B irradiation enhanced collagen fiber loss in the dorsal dermis, which was attenuated by fsCH through enhancing procollagen conversion to collagen. The matrix metalloproteinase expression by UV-B in dorsal skin was diminished by fsCH, similar to RA and GPH, via blockade of collagen degradation. Supplementing fsCH to UV-B-irradiated mice decreased transepidermal water loss in dorsal skin with reduced AQP3 level and restored keratinocyte expression of filaggrin. The expression of hyaluronic acid synthase 2 and hyaluronidase 1 by UV-B was remarkably ameliorated with increased production of hyaluronic acid by treating fsCH to photoaged mice. Taken together, fsCH attenuated photoaging typical of deep wrinkles, epidermal thickening, and skin water loss, like NAG, RA, or GPH, through inhibiting collagen destruction and epidermal barrier impairment.

A combined experimental and computational approach to evaluate microclimate control at the support surface interface

Temperature and humidity conditions at the interface between a support surface and the skin, termed microclimate, has been implicated in the development of pressure ulcers. Support surface technologies have been developed to control microclimate conditions, although only a few standard test methods exist to evaluate their performance. This study describes a combined experimental-computational approach to analyzing microclimate control systems. The study used a modified physical model protocol to evaluate two specific support surface systems involving a spacer fabric cover with i) no air flow and ii) an active fan. The physical model deposited moisture at a controlled rate for 25 min, and the microclimate conditions under the model and the surrounding area were monitored for 24 h. Using the experimental data as boundary conditions, a finite element model was developed using mass transport principles, which was calibrated using experimental results. Model inputs included mass density and mass diffusivity, resulting in an estimated absolute humidity change over time. The physical model tests revealed distinct differences between the support surfaces with and without active airflow, with the former having little effect on local humidity levels (RH>75% for 24hr). By contrast, there was a spatial and temporal change in microclimate with the active fan, with sensors positioned towards the source of airflow reaching ambient conditions within 24hr. The computational model was refined to produce comparable results with respect to both the spatial distribution of microclimate and the change in values over time. The combined experimental and computation approach was able to distinguish distinct difference in microclimate change between two support surface designs. The approach could enable the efficient evaluation of different mattress design principles to aid decision making for personalized support surface solutions, for the prevention of pressure ulcers.

Micropore Closure Rates following Microneedle Application at Various Anatomical Sites in Healthy Human Subjects

INTRODUCTION

The continuous availability of open micropores is crucial for a successful microneedle (MN) drug delivery strategy. However, micropore lifetime depends on intrinsic skin functional and anatomical characteristics, which vary significantly at different anatomical sites.

OBJECTIVE

This pilot study explored if differences exist in micropore closure timeframes at 3 anatomical sites - upper arm, volar forearm, and abdomen.

METHODS

Healthy subjects (n = 35) self-identifying as Asian (n = 9), Bi-/multiracial (n = 2), Black (n = 9), Latino (n = 6), and White (n = 9) completed the study. The upper arm, volar forearm, and abdomen were treated with MNs; skin impedance and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were measured at baseline and post-MN to confirm micropore formation. Impedance was measured for 3 days to evaluate micropore lifetime. Measurements of L*, which quantifies the skin lightness/darkness, were made using a tristimulus colorimeter. Micropore lifetime was determined by comparing baseline and post-MN impedance measurements, and micropore closure half-life was predicted using mathematical modeling.

RESULTS

Post-MN increase in TEWL and decrease in impedance were significant (p < 0.05), confirming successful micropore formation at all anatomical sites. When data were analyzed according to subject self-identified racial/ethnic groups, the mean micropore closure time at the abdomen (63.09 ± 13.13 h) was longer than the upper arm (60.34 ± 14.69 h) and volar forearm (58.29 ± 16.76 h). The predicted micropore closure half-life at anatomical sites was the abdomen (25.86 ± 14.96 h) ≈ upper arm (23.69 ± 13.67 h) > volar forearm (20.2 ± 11.99 h). Differences were not statistically significant between groups. Objective categorization by L* showed that the darker skin may be associated with longer micropore closure time at the abdomen site.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results suggest that anatomical site of application may not be a source of significant variability in micropore closure time. These findings may help reduce the number of physiological parameters that need to be explicitly considered when developing drug products to support MN-assisted drug delivery strategies.

Probing Skin Barrier Recovery on Molecular Level Following Acute Wounds: An In Vivo/Ex Vivo Study on Pigs

Proper skin barrier function is paramount for our survival, and, suffering injury, there is an acute need to restore the lost barrier and prevent development of a chronic wound. We hypothesize that rapid wound closure is more important than immediate perfection of the barrier, whereas specific treatment may facilitate perfection. The aim of the current project was therefore to evaluate the quality of restored tissue down to the molecular level. We used Göttingen minipigs with a multi-technique approach correlating wound healing progression in vivo over three weeks, monitored by classical methods (e.g., histology, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), pH) and subsequent physicochemical characterization of barrier recovery (i.e., small and wide-angle X-ray diffraction (SWAXD), polarization transfer solid-state NMR (PTssNMR), dynamic vapor sorption (DVS), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR)), providing a unique insight into molecular aspects of healing. We conclude that although acute wounds sealed within two weeks as expected, molecular investigation of stratum corneum (SC) revealed a poorly developed keratin organization and deviations in lipid lamellae formation. A higher lipid fluidity was also observed in regenerated tissue. This may have been due to incomplete lipid conversion during barrier recovery as glycosphingolipids, normally not present in SC, were indicated by infrared FTIR spectroscopy. Evidently, a molecular approach to skin barrier recovery could be a valuable tool in future development of products targeting wound healing.

A Clinical Trial to Evaluate the Efficacy of α-Viniferin in Staphylococcus aureus - Specific Decolonization without Depleting the Normal Microbiota of Nares

Staphylococcus aureus is currently a significant multidrug-resistant bacterium, causing severe healthcare-associated and community-acquired infections worldwide. The current antibiotic regimen against this pathogen is becoming ineffective due to resistance, in addition, they disrupt the normal microbiota. It highlights the urgent need for a pathogen-specific drug with high antibacterial efficacy against S. aureus. α-Viniferin, a bioactive phytochemical compound, has been reported to have excellent anti-Staphylococcus efficacy as a topical agent. However, so far, there were no clinical trials that have been conducted to elucidate its efficacy. The present study aimed to investigate the antibacterial efficacy of α-viniferin against S. aureus in a ten-day clinical trial. Based on the results, α-viniferin showed 50% minimum inhibitory concentrations (MIC₅₀ values) of 7.8 μg/ml in culture broth medium. α-Viniferin was administered in the nares three times a day for ten days using a sterile cotton swab stick. Nasal swab specimens were collected before (0 days) and after finishing the trial (10^th day), and then analyzed. In the culture and RT-PCR-based analysis, S. ureus was reduced significantly: 0.01. In addition, 16S ribosomal RNA-based amplicon sequencing analysis showed that S. aureus reduced from 51.03% to 23.99% at the genus level. RNA-seq analysis was also done to gain insights into molecular mechanisms of α-viniferin against S. aureus, which revealed that some gene groups were reduced in 5-fold FC cutoff at two times MIC conditions. The study results demonstrate α-viniferin as a potential S. aureus-specific drug candidate.

Tracing skin aging process: a mini- review of in vitro approaches

Skin is a rather complex, yet useful organ of our body. Besides, skin aging is a complicated process that gains a growing interest as mediates many molecular processes in our body. Thus, an efficient skin model is important to understand skin aging function as well as to develop an effective innovative product for skin aging treatment. In this mini review, we present in vitro methods for assessments of skin aging in an attempt to pinpoint basic molecular mechanisms behind this process achieving both a better understanding of aging function and an effective  evaluation of potential products or ingredients that counteract aging. Specifically, this study presents in vitro assays such as 2D or 3D skin models, to evaluate skin aging-related processes such as skin moisturization, photoaging, wound healing, menopause, and skin microbiome as novel efforts in the designing of efficacy assessments in the development of skincare products.

Label-free histological imaging of tissues using Brillouin light scattering contrast

Brillouin light scattering offers a unique label-free approach to measure biomechanical properties non-invasively. While this technique is used in biomechanical analysis of cells and tissues, its potential for visualizing structural features of tissues based on the biomechanical contrast has not been much exploited. Here, we present high-resolution Brillouin microscopy images of four basic tissue types: muscular, connective, epithelial, and nervous tissues. The Brillouin contrast distinguishes between muscle fiber cells and endomysium in skeletal muscle and reveals chondrocytes along with spatially varying stiffness of the extracellular matrix in articular cartilage. The hydration-sensitive contrast can visualize the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis in the skin epithelium. In brain tissues, the Brillouin images show the mechanical heterogeneity across the cortex and deeper regions. This work demonstrates the versatility of using the Brillouin shift as histological contrast for examining intact tissue substructures via longitudinal modulus without the need for laborious tissue processing steps.