Cosmetic skin lightening use and side effects

In Vitro In Silico Screening Strategy and Mechanism of Novel Tyrosinase Inhibitory Peptides from Nacre of Hyriopsis cumingii

For thousands of years, pearl and nacre powders have been important traditional Chinese medicines known for their skin whitening effects. To prepare the enzymatic hydrolysates of Hyriopsis cumingii nacre powder (NP-HCH), complex enzymatic hydrolysis by pineapple protease and of neutral protease was carried out after the powder was pre-treated with a high-temperature and high-pressure method. The peptides were identified using LC-MS/MS and picked out through molecular docking and molecular dynamics simulations. Subsequently, the tyrosinase inhibitory and antioxidant properties of novel tyrosinase inhibitory peptides were investigated in vitro. In addition, the enzymatic activity of tyrosinase in B16F10 cells as well as melanin content and antioxidant enzyme levels were also examined. The results showed that a tyosinase inhibitory peptide (Tyr-Pro-Asn-Pro-Tyr, YPNPY) with an efficient IC50 value of 0.545 ± 0.028 mM was identified. The in vitro interaction results showed that YPNPY is a reversible competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase, suggesting that it binds to the free enzyme. The B16F10 cell whitening test revealed that YPNPY can reduce the melanin content of B16F10 cells by directly inhibiting the activity of intracellular tyrosinase. Additionally, it indirectly affects melanin production by acting as an antioxidant. These results suggest that YPNPY could be widely used as a tyrosinase inhibitor in whitening foods and drugs.

Cosmetic skin lightening: Contextualizing biomedical and ethical issues

The skin-lightening (SL) industry has a global reach and is projected to continue to grow over the coming decade. Although SL treatments may be safely prescribed for the treatment of some dermatologic conditions, many over-the-counter SL products contain ingredients that can cause harm to the skin and other organ systems. Given a lack of transparent information to patients and the historical colorist foundation that contextualizes a component of the cosmetic SL industry, dermatologists need to navigate biomedical and ethical concerns when explaining SL products to patients. This commentary briefly outlines the medical ethical issues surrounding this topic and describes avenues by which dermatologists may provide informed patient care that best supports beneficence, justice, autonomy, and nonmaleficence.

The dark side of beauty: an in-depth analysis of the health hazards and toxicological impact of synthetic cosmetics and personal care products

Over the past three decades, the popularity of cosmetic and personal care products has skyrocketed, largely driven by social media influence and the propagation of unrealistic beauty standards, especially among younger demographics. These products, promising enhanced appearance and self-esteem, have become integral to contemporary society. However, users of synthetic, chemical-based cosmetics are exposed to significantly higher risks than those opting for natural alternatives. The use of synthetic products has been associated with a variety of chronic diseases, including cancer, respiratory conditions, neurological disorders, and endocrine disruption. This review explores the toxicological impact of beauty and personal care products on human health, highlighting the dangers posed by various chemicals, the rise of natural ingredients, the intricate effects of chemical mixtures, the advent of nanotechnology in cosmetics, and the urgent need for robust regulatory measures to ensure safety. The paper emphasizes the necessity for thorough safety assessments, ethical ingredient sourcing, consumer education, and collaboration between governments, regulatory bodies, manufacturers, and consumers. As we delve into the latest discoveries and emerging trends in beauty product regulation and safety, it is clear that the protection of public health and well-being is a critical concern in this ever-evolving field.

In Silico Identification and Molecular Mechanism of Novel Tyrosinase Inhibitory Peptides Derived from Nacre of Pinctada martensii

Pearl and nacre powders have been valuable traditional Chinese medicines with whitening properties for thousands of years. We utilized a high-temperature and high-pressure method along with compound enzyme digestion to prepare the enzymatic hydrolysates of nacre powder of Pinctada martensii (NP-PMH). The peptides were identified using LC-MS/MS and screened through molecular docking and molecular dynamics simulations. The interactions between peptides and tyrosinase were elucidated through enzyme kinetics, circular dichroism spectropolarimetry, and isothermal titration calorimetry. Additionally, their inhibitory effects on B16F10 cells were explored. The results showed that a tyrosinase-inhibitory peptide (Ala-His-Tyr-Tyr-Asp, AHYYD) was identified, which inhibited tyrosinase with an IC50 value of 2.012 ± 0.088 mM. The results of the in vitro interactions showed that AHYYD exhibited a mixed-type inhibition of tyrosinase and also led to a more compact enzyme structure. The binding reactions of AHYYD with tyrosinase were spontaneous, leading to the formation of a new set of binding sites on the tyrosinase. The B16F10 cell-whitening assay revealed that AHYYD could reduce the melanin content of the cells by directly inhibiting the activity of intracellular tyrosinase. Additionally, it indirectly affects melanin production by acting as an antioxidant. These results suggest that AHYYD could be widely used as a tyrosinase inhibitor in whitening foods and pharmaceuticals.

Nail Discoloration Following the Chronic Use of Skin-Depigmenting Creams

Skin-depigmenting creams are on the rise, driven by societal pressures that equate fair skin with beauty, success, and happiness. This trend has led to many unregulated products being released on the market, causing various adverse effects on users. This case report examines five patients with nail hyperpigmentation following the use of skin-depigmenting creams containing hydroquinone (HQ). The findings from this case report showcase overlooked side effects of these widely used creams. Healthcare providers may be unfamiliar with the rare side effects of depigmenting creams, leading to misdiagnoses and unnecessary evaluations. Moreover, there is a pressing need for healthcare authorities to enhance regulation and for healthcare providers to be more vigilant in diagnosing presentations of nail hyperpigmentation. This case report provides valuable insights into the side effects of HQ-based creams as observed in the Asiatic population.

Laser-mediated Solutions: Breaking Barriers in Transdermal Drug Delivery

Skin diseases pose challenges in treatment due to the skin's complex structure and protective functions. Topical drug delivery has emerged as a preferred method for treating these conditions, offering localized therapy with minimal systemic side effects. However, the skin's barrier properties frequently limit topical treatments' efficacy by preventing drug penetration into deeper skin layers. In recent years, laser-assisted drug delivery (LADD) has gained attention as a promising strategy to overcome these limitations. LADD involves using lasers to create microchannels in the skin, facilitating the deposition of drugs and enhancing their penetration into the target tissue. Several lasers, such as fractional CO2, have been tested to see how well they work at delivering drugs. Despite the promising outcomes demonstrated in preclinical and clinical studies, several challenges persist in implementing LADD, including limited penetration depth, potential tissue damage, and the cost of LADD systems. Furthermore, selecting appropriate laser parameters and drug formulations is crucial to ensuring optimal therapeutic outcomes. Nevertheless, LADD holds significant potential for improving treatment efficacy for various skin conditions, including skin cancers, scars, and dermatological disorders. Future research efforts should focus on optimizing LADD techniques, addressing safety concerns, and exploring novel drug formulations to maximize the therapeutic benefits of this innovative approach. With continued advancements in laser technology and pharmaceutical science, LADD has the potential to revolutionize the field of dermatology and enhance patient care.

The Use of Over-the-Counter (OTC) Skin-Lightening Agents and Their Side Effects Among the Residents of Saudi Arabia: A Cross-Sectional Study

INTRODUCTION

Over-the-counter (OTC) skin-lightening agents are topical products in the form of lotions, creams, oils, soaps, and serums designed to alter skin pigmentation primarily for cosmetic purposes. The growing misuse and overuse of these products has become a serious public health concern due to their potential adverse effects on human health and their quality of life.

METHODS

This study was cross-sectional in nature, adopting a convenience sampling technique utilizing data from a sample of 408 residents of Arar, Northern Saudi Arabia. The participants completed online questionnaires, distributed through social media means like Telegram, WhatsApp, and Facebook ensuring anonymity. Data was analyzed using SPSS Version 27 to obtain important insights.

RESULTS

The sample of the study had a predominance of females 304 (74.5%) while only 104 (25.5%) were males. A substantial proportion of 170 (41.7%) of the participants were aged between 20 and 35 years with more than half (229 (56.2%)) being single and the majority (266 (65.2%)) having university and above level of education. More than half (259 (63.5%)) of them indicated that they had bought skin-lightening products without a doctor's prescription. Twenty-eight (10.8%) of the participants had been diagnosed with a condition that increased skin pigmentation before with a substantial proportion (11 (39.3%)) noting that the product contained hydroquinone cream ingredients. The overall prevalence of OTC skin-lightening agents among the participants of Arar, Northern Saudi Arabia was 63.5% (259/408). The study found a significantly high prevalence of use of OTC skin-lightening agents among participants aged 20-35 years (87 (71.3%)) (p=0.031) as well as those who had a university level of education and above (129 (71.3%)) (p=0.001). The findings show that 39 (40.6%) of the female respondents and eight (30.8%) of the male participants experienced adverse effects associated with irritation and redness.

CONCLUSION

Overall, the study found a considerably high prevalence of the use of OTC skin-lightening agents among the participants of Arar, Northern Saudi Arabia. The use of OTC skin-lightening agents was significantly greater among female participants than male participants. The commonly used products contained hydroquinone cream ingredients, which presented adverse effects and complications associated with irritation, redness, and darkening of the skin. It is imperative to launch targeted public awareness campaigns to educate the community, especially women, about the risks associated with OTC skin-lightening agents, promote safer alternatives, and advocate for stricter regulation and control over the sale and distribution of skin-lightening products containing harmful ingredients.

Design and synthesis of novel dihydropyridine- and benzylideneimine-based tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinase (TYR) inhibitors are very significant as they inhibit enzyme tyrosinase activity, and its inhibition is vital for skin care, anticancer medication, and antibrowning of fruits and vegetables. This work presents a novel and economical route for the preparation of new synthetic tyrosinase inhibitors using amlodipine (4). The novel conjugates 6 (a-o) were designed, synthesized, and characterized by spectroscopic analyses, including Fourier transform infrared and low- and high-resolution mass spectroscopy. The purified compound 4 was refluxed with various aldehydes and ketones 5 (a-o) for 5-8 h in methanol at 60°C-90°C. This research modified the drug in a step-by-step manner to develop therapeutic properties as a tyrosinase inhibitor. The structures of synthesized ligands 6 (a-o) were established based on spectral and analytical data. The synthesized compounds 6 (a-o) were screened against tyrosinase enzyme. Kojic acid was taken as standard. All the prepared compounds 6 (a-o) have good inhibition potential against the enzyme tyrosinase. Compounds 6o, 6b, 6f, and 6k depicted excellent antityrosinase activity. Compound 6k, with an IC50 value of 5.34 ± 0.58 µM, is as potent as the standard kojic acid (IC50 6.04 ± 0.11 µM), standing out among all synthesized compounds 6 (a-o). The in silico studies of the conjugates 6 (a-o) were evaluated via PatchDock. Compound 6k showed a binding affinity score of 8,999 and an atomic contact energy (ACE) value of -219.66 kcal/mol. The structure-activity relationship illustrated that the presence of dihydropyridine nuclei and some activating groups at the ortho and para positions of the benzylideneimine moiety is the main factor for good tyrosinase activity. The compound 6k could be used as a lead compound for drug modification as a tyrosinase inhibitor for skin care, anticancer medication, and antibrowning for fruits and vegetables.

(2-Methylbutyryl)shikonin Naturally Occurring Shikonin Derivative Ameliorates the α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis via ERK1/2 and p38 MAP Kinase-Mediated Down-Regulation of the MITF Transcription Factor

Cutaneous pigmentation is an important phenotypic trait whose regulation, despite recent advances, has yet to be completely elucidated. Melanogenesis, a physiological process of melanin production, is imperative for organism survival as it provides protection against the environmental insults that majorly involve sunlight-induced skin photodamage. However, immoderate melanin synthesis can cause pigmentation disorders associated with a psychosocial impact. In this study, the hypopigmentation effect of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin, a natural product present in the root extract of Lithospermum erythrorhizon, and the underlying mechanisms responsible for the inhibition of melanin synthesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells and C57BL/6J mice was studied. Non-cytotoxic concentrations of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin significantly repressed cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in both in vitro and in vivo models (C57BL/6J mice). (2-Methylbutyryl)shikonin remarkably abolished the protein expression of MITF, tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and tyrosinase-related protein 2, thereby blocking the production of pigment melanin via modulating the phosphorylation status of MAPK proteins, viz., ERK1/2 and p38. In addition, specific inhibition of ERK1/2 attenuated the inhibitory effects of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin on melanin synthesis, whereas selective inhibition of p38 augmented the inhibitory effect of BSHK on melanin synthesis. Moreover, topical application of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin on C57BL/6J mouse tails remarkably induced tail depigmentation. In conclusion, with these findings, we, for the first time, report the hypopigmentation effect of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin via inhibition of cellular tyrosinase enzyme activity, subsequently ameliorating the melanin production, thereby indicating that (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin is a potential natural therapy for hyperpigmentation disorders.

Worldwide internet trends in the public interest related to skin whitening and bleaching creams

Skin whitening is a practice that is used to obtain lighter skin tone and is most prevalent in Africa and Asia. Substances used for this procedure, such as hydroquinone or mercury have a variety of side effects and are banned in several countries. This study examined the popularity of internet searches for terms related to skin whitening and bleaching creams with the use of GoogleTrends (GT). GT was searched globally for the topic "skin whitening" and two terms "hydroquinone cream" and "mercury cream" throughout a 10-year period (01.09.2013-31.08.2023). The popularity of searches increased during the analyzed period. The topic "skin whitening" was most popular in Sudan, Vietnam, and Sri Lanka. The searches were higher for "hydroquinone cream" than "mercury cream" in almost all countries, besides the Philippines and Indonesia. Our study confirms that skin whitening practices are popular, especially among populations with darker skin tone. Despite potentially toxic side effects, creams with hydroquinone and mercury are increasingly searched worldwide. Education about skin whitening and the usage of bleaching substances should be implemented, especially in the regions of Africa and Asia.

Valorization of biomass polyphenols as potential tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinases (TYRs; EC 1.14.18.1) catalyze two sequential oxidative reactions of the melanin biosynthesis pathway and play an important role in mammalian pigmentation and enzymatic browning of fruit and vegetables. Inhibition of TYR activity is therefore an attractive target for new drugs and/or food ingredients. In addition, increasing evidence suggests that TYR regulation could be a novel target for treatments of cancer and Parkinson's disease. Biomasses, notably industrial byproducts and biowaste, are good sustainable sources of phytochemicals that may be valorized into bioactive compounds including TYR inhibitors. This review presents potential applications of biomass-derived polyphenols targeting TYR inhibition. Insights into structure-activity relationships of several polyphenols and their glycosides are highlighted. Finally, some remarks and perspectives on research into new TYR inhibitors from biomass waste are provided.

Effect of body image perception and skin-lightening practices on mental health of Filipino emerging adults: a mixed-methods approach protocol

INTRODUCTION

The rampant distribution of idealised images on the internet may lead the general public to improve their body appearance in a way that is sometimes excessive, compulsive or detrimental to other aspects of their lives. There is a decreasing appreciation of body image among emerging adults and an increasing trend on skin-lightening practices linked with psychological distress. This protocol describes the mixed-method approach to assess the relationships among body image perception, skin-lightening practices and mental well-being of Filipino emerging adults and determine the factors that influence them.

METHODS AND ANALYSIS

An explanatory sequential mixed-method approach will be used. A cross-sectional study design will involve an online self-administered questionnaire of 1258 participants, while a case study design will involve in-depth interviews with 25 participants. Data analysis will use generalised linear models and structural equation modelling with a Bayesian network for the quantitative data. Moreover, the qualitative data will use an inductive approach in thematic analysis. A contiguous narrative approach will integrate the quantitative and qualitative data.

ETHICS AND DISSEMINATION

The University of the Philippines Manila Review Ethics Board has approved this protocol (UPMREB 2022-0407-01). The study results will be disseminated through peer-reviewed articles and conference presentations.

The Skin-Whitening and Antioxidant Effects of Protocatechuic Acid (PCA) Derivatives in Melanoma and Fibroblast Cell Lines

The skin is the most voluminous organ of the human body and is exposed to the outer environment. Such exposed skin suffers from the effects of various intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors. Skin aging is characterized by features such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, and skin pigmentation. Skin pigmentation occurs in skin aging and is caused by hyper-melanogenesis and oxidative stress. Protocatechuic acid (PCA) is a natural secondary metabolite from a plant-based source widely used as a cosmetic ingredient. We chemically designed and synthesized PCA derivatives conjugated with alkyl esters to develop effective chemicals that have skin-whitening and antioxidant effects and enhance the pharmacological activities of PCA. We identified that melanin biosynthesis in B16 melanoma cells treated with alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) is decreased by PCA derivatives. We also found that PCA derivatives effectively have antioxidant effects in HS68 fibroblast cells. In this study, we suggest that our PCA derivatives are potent ingredients for developing cosmetics with skin-whitening and antioxidant effects.

Awareness, Perception, and Utilization of Skin Lightening Agents Among Females of Asmara, Eritrea: A Cross-Sectional Study

Background

The use of skin lightening agents (SLAs) is common among African females with black skin color. Although they usually contain harmful ingredients and can cause complications, their use remains to be a common practice. This study was conducted to assess the awareness, perception, and utilization of SLAs among females residing in Asmara, Eritrea.

Methods

A cross-sectional analytical study using a quantitative approach was conducted in representative samples of all beauty salons available in Asmara from May to July, 2021. The study participants were selected using two-stage stratified cluster sampling and data were collected through a face-to-face interview using a structured questionnaire. Descriptive analysis and logistic regression, at bivariate and multivariate level, were performed.

Results

The study enrolled 721 females and 684 completed the study. The majority of the respondents had the perception that SLAs can make someone light colored (84.4%), look beautiful (67.8%), trendy and fashionable (55.0%), and white skin is more attractive than dark skin (58.8%). About two-thirds (64.2%) reported they had previously used SLAs, mainly influenced by friends (60.5%). Approximately 46% were current users, while 53.6% stopped it mainly due to adverse effects, fear of adverse effects and ineffectiveness. A total of 150 products including natural ingredients were mentioned being used to lighten the skin, and Aneeza, Natural face, and Betamethasone containing brands were among the top used products. The occurrence of at least one adverse effect due to the use of SLAs was 43.7%, while 66.5% were satisfied with the use of SLAs. Additionally, employment status and perception of SLAs were found to be determinants of being a current user.

Conclusion

Utilization of SLAs, including products containing harmful or medicinal ingredients, was prevalent among the females of Asmara city. Thus, coordinated regulatory interventions are recommended to tackle unsafe practices and raise public awareness to promote the safe use of cosmetics.

Skin-Lightening Products: Consumer Preferences and Costs

Disorders of skin hyperpigmentation have an appreciable impact on quality of life, carrying social and cultural importance that influences widespread consumer demand for cosmetic lightening products. We sought to investigate product factors that may influence consumer preference when choosing an over-the-counter cream for skin-lightening purposes. The keyword "lightening cream" was searched in the "Beauty and Personal Care category" of online retailer Amazon.com. The top fifth percentile of products was determined by filtering the search results for a minimum of four out of five stars from customer reviews, and then further filtered by products with over 100 reviews. Number of reviews, rating, price per unit, vehicle, application instructions, ingredients, and review attributes were evaluated. Over 2,900 products were catalogued as "lightening cream" on Amazon.com. There were 40 products rated >4 stars and >100 reviews, constituting the top 1.34% of entries. Tocopheryl was present in 58% of the top 40 products, ascorbic acid in 40%, and niacinamide in 20%. Notably, 22.5% of the top 40 products contained no known skin-lightening ingredient. There was a moderate positive correlation (R2=0.378) between price and consumer rating, with kojic acid being the most expensive per ounce ($24.89) and salicylic acid being the most highly rated (4.54 stars; $15.00/oz). This study provides insight on the factors influencing the choice, preferences, and satisfaction of consumer that sought Amazon for the purchase of lightening products.

Trends in Use of Prescription Skin Lightening Creams

The desire for an even skin tone pervades all cultures and regions of the world. Uniform skin color is considered a sign of beauty and youth. Pigmentation abnormalities can arise idiopathically with genetic predetermination, with injury and environmental exposures, and with advancing age, and can, therefore, be distressing to patients, leading them to seek a variety of treatments with professional assistance. In this short report, we describe the trends in the use of prescription lightening creams, particularly in patients with darker skin types residing in the US. Amongst 404 participants, skin hyperpigmentation had a moderate effect on patients' quality of life, and the most common diagnosis associated with the use of a prescription product was melasma (60.8%). The most common agent prescribed was hydroquinone (62.9%), followed by triple combination cream (31.4%). It is the dermatologist's duty to gauge the effect of the pigmentation disease on patients' life in order to counsel, tailor, and decide on the most appropriate treatment option.