Vesicles: Potential nano carriers for the delivery of skin cosmetics

Research-based findings on scope of liposome-based cosmeceuticals: an updated review

Background

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active components that have drug-like benefits. Cosmeceuticals are currently rapidly growing segments encompassing the personal care industry and numerous topical cosmetics-based therapies for treating different skin conditions. The barrier nature of skin causes limitations to topical treatment. The effectiveness of this cosmeceutical product has been enhanced a few folds by using nanotechnological modifications.

Main body

PubMed electronic searches for the literature were performed using combinations of the following terms: “cosmeceutical,” “liposome-based cosmeceuticals,” “acne and liposome,” “photo-aging and liposome,” “hyperpigmentation and liposome,” “wrinkles and liposome,” “fungal infections and liposome,” and “hair damage and liposome” from the earliest publication date available to January 5, 2022. Among the various nanotechnological approaches, liposomes offer numerous advantages such as topical cosmeceutical products, starting from improved moisturization, biodegradability, biocompatibility, enhanced permeation and retention, improved bioavailability of the active ingredients, increased esthetic appeal of cosmeceutical products, slow and extended dermal release. This review outlines various liposome-based cosmeceutical products that has been investigated to treat skin disorders such as photoaging, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, hair damage and fungal infections.

Conclusion

Liposome-based cosmeceuticals provide a better opportunity to deliver therapeutic moiety for various skin conditions and offer potential promise for future clinical applications.

Graphical Abstract

Technologies for Solubility, Dissolution and Permeation Enhancement of Natural Compounds

The current review is based on the advancements in the field of natural therapeutic agents which could be utilized for a variety of biomedical applications and against various diseases and ailments. In addition, several obstacles have to be circumvented to achieve the desired therapeutic effectiveness, among which limited dissolution and/or solubility and permeability are included. To counteract these issues, several advancements in the field of natural therapeutic substances needed to be addressed. Therefore, in this review, the possible techniques for the dissolution/solubility and permeability improvements have been addressed which could enhance the dissolution and permeability up to several times. In addition, the conventional and modern isolation and purification techniques have been emphasized to achieve the isolation and purification of single or multiple therapeutic constituents with convenience and smarter approaches. Moreover, a brief overview of advanced natural compounds with multiple therapeutic effectiveness have also been anticipated. In brief, enough advancements have been carried out to achieve safe, effective and economic use of natural medicinal agents with improved stability, handling and storage.

Nanosystems in Cosmetic Products: A Brief Overview of Functional, Market, Regulatory and Safety Concerns

Nanosystems exhibit various innovative physico-chemical properties as well as a range of cosmetic functions, including increased skin retention for loaded compounds. The worldwide nano-market has therefore been consistently extensive in recent decades. This review summarizes the most important properties of nanosystems that are employed in cosmetics, including composition, functions and interactions with skin, with particular attention being paid to marketed products. Moreover, the worldwide regulatory landscape of nanomaterials used as cosmetic ingredients is considered, and the main safety concerns are indicated. In general, advanced physico-chemical characterization is preliminarily needed to assess the safety of nanomaterials for human health and the environment. However, there is currently a shortfall in global legislation as a universally accepted and unambiguous definition of a nanomaterial is still lacking. Therefore, each country follows its own regulations. Anyhow, the main safety concerns arise from the European context, which is the most restrictive. Accordingly, the poor dermal permeation of nanomaterials generally limits their potential toxic effects, which should be mainly ascribed to unwanted or accidental exposure routes.

Current Advances of Nanocarrier Technology-Based Active Cosmetic Ingredients for Beauty Applications

Nanocarrier technology has been effectively applied to the development of drug delivery systems to overcome the limitations of traditional preparation. Its application has been extended to various pharmaceutical fields from injection preparation to oral preparation and external preparation, and now it has appeared in the field of cosmetics for beauty applications. The widespread influence of nanocarrier in the cosmetics industry is due to the fact that nanocarrier can effectively promote the percutaneous penetration and significantly increase skin retention of active components in functional cosmetics. Meanwhile, nanocarrier can effectively improve the water dispersion of insoluble active cosmetic ingredients, enhance the stability of efficacy components and achieve the codelivery of diverse cosmetics active ingredients. In this review, we summarized the current progress of nanocarrier technology in the functional cosmetics, including the types and the routes of dermal/transdermal drug delivery nanocarriers used in the functional cosmetics, the mechanism of nanocarriers promoting the percutaneous penetration of active cosmetic ingredients, the application and efficacy evaluation of different active cosmetic ingredients in nanocarriers and discussing the potential risks to human. This will provide a useful reference for the further development of nanocarriers in the field of functional cosmetics.

Extracellular Vesicles as Potential Theranostic Platforms for Skin Diseases and Aging

Extracellular vesicles (EVs), naturally secreted by cells, act as mediators for communication between cells. They are transported to the recipient cells along with cargoes such as nucleic acids, proteins, and lipids that reflect the changes occurring within the parent cells. Thus, EVs have been recognized as potential theranostic agents for diagnosis, treatment, and prognosis. In particular, the evidence accumulated to date suggests an important role of EVs in the initiation and progression of skin aging and various skin diseases, including psoriasis, systemic lupus erythematosus, vitiligo, and chronic wounds. This review highlights recent research that investigates the role of EVs and their potential as biomarkers and therapeutic agents for skin diseases and aging.

Nanoencapsulation of Pomegranate Extract to Increase Stability and Potential Dermatological Protection

Pomegranate extract (PG-E) has been reported to exert a protective effect on the skin due to its antioxidant activity. Ingredients rich in phenolic compounds are unstable in extract solutions, and, therefore, the use of a suitable nanosystem to encapsulate this type of extract could be necessary in different biotechnological applications. Thus, we investigated the capacity of Brassica oleracea L. (cauliflower) inflorescence vesicles (CI-vesicles) to encapsulate PG-E and determined the stability and the antioxidant capacity of the system over time. In addition, the protective effect against UV radiation and heavy metals in HaCaT cells was also tested. The CI-vesicles had an entrapment efficiency of around 50%, and accelerated stability tests did not show significant changes in the parameters tested. The results for the HaCaT cells showed the non-cytotoxicity of the CI-vesicles containing PG-E and their protection against heavy metals (lead acetate and mercuric chloride) and UV-B radiation through a reduction of oxidative stress. The reduction of the percentage of deleted mtDNA (mtDNA4977, "common deletion") in UV-treated HaCaT cells due to the presence of CI-vesicles containing PG-E indicated the mechanism of protection. Therefore, the effects of CI-vesicles loaded with PG-E against oxidative stress support their utilization as natural cosmeceuticals to protect skin health against external damage from environmental pollution and UV radiation.

Oral Bioavailability Improvement of Tailored Rosuvastatin Loaded Niosomal Nanocarriers to Manage Ischemic Heart Disease: Optimization, Ex Vivo and In Vivo Studies

Rosuvastatin is an efficient antihyperlipidemic agent; however, being a BCS class II molecule, it shows poor oral bioavailability of < 20%. The present study focused on the improvement of oral bioavailability of rosuvastatin using tailored niosomes. The niosomes were prepared by film hydration method and sonication using cholesterol and Span 40. The Box-Behnken design (BBD) was applied to optimize the size (98 nm) and the entrapment efficacy (77%) of the niosomes by selecting cholesterol at 122 mg, Span 40 at 0.52%, and hydration time at 29.88 min. The transmission electron microscopy image showed spherical shape niosomes with smooth surface without aggregation. The ex vivo intestinal permeability studies showed significant improvement in the rosuvastatin permeation (95.5% after 2 h) using niosomes in comparison to the rosuvastatin suspension (40.1% after 2 h). The in vivo pharmacokinetic parameters in the rat model confirmed the improvement in the oral bioavailability with optimized rosuvastatin loaded niosomes (relative bioavailability = 2.01) in comparison to the rosuvastatin suspension, due to high surface area of niosomes and its lymphatic uptake via transcellular route. In conclusion, the optimized rosuvastatin loaded niosomes offers a promising approach to improve the oral bioavailability of rosuvastatin.

Vitamin D3 Loaded Niosomes and Transfersomes Produced by Ethanol Injection Method: Identification of the Critical Preparation Step for Size Control

Vesicular nanocarriers have an important role in drug delivery and dietary supplements. Size control and optimization of encapsulation efficiency (EE) should be optimized for those applications. In this work, we report on the identification of the crucial step (injection, evaporation, or sonication) innanovesicles (transfersomes and niosomes) preparation by theethanol injection method (EI). The identification of each production step on the final vesicle size was analyzed in order to optimize further scale-up process. Results indicated that the final size of transfersomeswas clearly influenced by the sonication step while the final size of niosomes was mainly governed by the injection step. Measurements of final surface tension of the different vesicular systems prepared indicate a linear positive tendency with the vesicle size formed. This relation could help to better understand the process and design a vesicular size prediction model for EI. Vitamin D3 (VitD3) was encapsulated in the systems formulated with encapsulation efficiencies larger than 90%. Interaction between the encapsulated compound and the membrane layer components is crucial for vesicle stability. This work has an impact on the scaling-up production of vesicles for further food science applications.

Spreading and Imbibition of Vesicle Dispersion Droplets on Porous Substrates

Vesicles have recently found widespread use in applications such as conditioning of textiles, paper and hair, as well as transdermal drug delivery. The mode of treatment in several such cases involves the application of droplets of aqueous dispersions of vesicles onto dry porous substrates like paper and textiles. One of the factors which affects the performance of such treatments is the rate at which the droplets spread and imbibe on the porous substrate. Depending upon the specific purpose of the treatment either a fast or slow droplet spreading kinetics could be desired. Therefore, it is important to have a good understanding of the droplet spreading process and the factors which influence it. In this work, an experimental investigation of the simultaneous spreading and imbibition of vesicle dispersion droplets on cellulose filter papers is carried out. Two different types of vesicles which are composed of similar lipid molecules but exhibit contrasting lipid bilayer phase behavior are used. Two different grades of filter papers with comparable porosities but different thicknesses are used as porous substrate. It is found that the droplet spreading behavior is of the “complete wetting” type on the thicker porous substrate, whereas it is of the “partial wetting” type on the thinner substrate. Furthermore, it is observed that the spreading of droplets containing vesicles with liquid-crystalline phase bilayers occurs faster than that of vesicles with solid-gel phase bilayers. The secondary radial penetration which commences after the initial droplet spreading is complete is also investigated and discussed.

Essential Oils and Isolated Terpenes in Nanosystems Designed for Topical Administration: A Review

Essential oils are natural products with a complex composition. Terpenes are the most common class of chemical compounds present in essential oils. Terpenes and the essential oils containing them are widely used and investigated by their pharmacological properties and permeation-enhancing ability. However, many terpenes and essential oils are sensitive to environmental conditions, undergoing volatilization and chemical degradation. In order to overcome the chemical instability of some isolated terpenes and essential oils, the encapsulation of these compounds in nanostructured systems (polymeric, lipidic, or molecular complexes) has been employed. In addition, nanoencapsulation can be of interest for pharmaceutical applications due to its capacity to improve the bioavailability and allow the controlled release of drugs. Topical drug administration is a convenient and non-invasive administration route for both local and systemic drug delivery. The present review focuses on describing the current status of research concerning nanostructured delivery systems containing isolated terpenes and/or essential oils designed for topical administration and on discussing the use of terpenes and essential oils either for their biological activities or as permeation enhancers in pharmaceutic formulations.

Formation of lipid vesicles in situ utilizing the thiol-Michael reaction

Synthetic unilamellar liposomes, functionalized to enable novel characteristics and behavior, are of great utility to fields such as drug delivery and artificial cell membranes. However, the generation of these liposomes is frequently highly labor-intensive and time consuming whereas in situ liposome formation presents a potential solution to this problem. A novel method for in situ lipid formation is developed here through the covalent addition of a thiol-functionalized lysolipid to an acrylate-functionalized tail via the thiol-Michael addition reaction with potential for inclusion of additional functionality via the tail. Dilute, stoichiometric mixtures of a thiol lysolipid and an acrylate tail reacted in an aqueous media at ambient conditions for 48 hours reached nearly 90% conversion, forming the desired thioether-containing phospholipid product. These lipids assemble into a high density of liposomes with sizes ranging from 20 nm to several microns in diameter and include various structures ranging from spheres to tubular vesicles with structure and lamellarity dependent upon the catalyst concentration used. To demonstrate lipid functionalization, an acrylate tail possessing a terminal alkyne was coupled into the lipid structure. These functionalized liposomes enable photo-induced polymerization of the terminal alkyne upon irradiation.

Production of dynamic lipid bilayers using the reversible thiol–thioester exchange reaction

Coupling of phospholipid precursors using the reversible thiol–thioester exchange reaction enables downstream remodeling and functionalization.