Adverse Reactions to Sunscreen Agents: Epidemiology, Responsible Irritants and Allergens, Clinical Characteristics, and Management

Photopatch testing: Clinical characteristics, test results, and final diagnoses from the North American Contact Dermatitis Group, 2009-2020

BACKGROUND

Photoallergic contact dermatitis (PACD) is a delayed hypersensitivity reaction to allergens only in the presence of ultraviolet radiation in sunlight. Photopatch testing (PhotoPT) is necessary to confirm the diagnosis of PACD. There are few published studies of PhotoPT in North America.

OBJECTIVE

To summarise the results of patients photopatch tested by members of the North American Contact Dermatitis Group (NACDG), 2009-2020.

METHODS

Retrospective analysis of patient characteristics and PhotoPT results to 32 allergens on the NACDG Photopatch Test Series.

RESULTS

Most of the 454 tested patients were female (70.3%), 21-60 years old (66.7%) and White (66.7%). There were a total of 119 positive photopatch tests. Sunscreen agents comprised 88.2% of those, with benzophenones responsible for over half of them. Final diagnoses included PACD in 17.2%, allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) in 44.5%, polymorphous light eruption (PMLE) in 18.9% and chronic actinic dermatitis (CAD) in 9.0% of patients.

CONCLUSIONS

In 454 patients with suspected photosensitivity referred for photopatch testing in North America, approximately one-fifth had PACD. Sunscreen agents, especially benzophenones, were the most common photoallergens. Other common diagnoses included ACD, PMLE and CAD. Photopatch testing is an important tool for differentiating these conditions.

Allergic contact dermatitis to lip care cosmetic products - a systematic review

Aim: Lip care cosmetics products are any external preparation used by people to prevent drying, chapping, dullness, and beautification of lips. This study aimed to review the literature on allergic reactions induced by different types of lip care cosmetic products. Methods: A literature search was performed in PubMed from inception to June 2022. The study included articles published in English and available in full text. References of illegible articles were searched. Studies describing any patient who developed allergic contact dermatitis after the application of lip care cosmetic products were included. Results: A total of 47 reports consisting of 58 individuals experienced allergic reactions to lip care products. Several lip care cosmetics products, such as lipsticks, lip balms, lip salve, lip gloss, lip liner, and lip plumper, were found to be associated with allergic reactions. The most common ingredients that caused the allergic contact dermatitis were castor oil, benzophenone-3, gallate, wax, and colophony. Conclusions: Lip care cosmetics products contain several components that have been associated with allergic reactions. Awareness needs to be created among the general public and dermatologists regarding the presence of possible allergens in lip care cosmetic products.

Patch Testing With Benzophenone-3 and -4: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group Experience, 2013-2020

Background: Benzophenone (BZP)-3 and BZP-4 are ultraviolet (UV) absorbers used in sunscreens and personal care products (PCPs) and may cause allergic contact dermatitis. Objective: To characterize positive patch test reactions to BZP-3 (10% in petrolatum [pet]) and BZP-4 (2% pet) in a screening allergen series. Methods: Retrospective analysis of patients tested to BZP-3 and BZP-4 was conducted by the North American Contact Dermatitis Group from 2013 to 2020. Results: Of 19,618 patients patch tested to BZP-3 and BZP-4, 103 (0.5%) and 323 (1.6%) had positive reactions, respectively: 413 (2.1%) reacted to at least 1 BZP (BZP-positive patient). As compared with BZP-negative patients, BZP-positive patients were significantly more likely to have a history of hay fever (39.3% vs 33.4%, P = 0.0134), history of atopic dermatitis (39.8% vs 30.7%, P = 0.0001), and facial involvement (37.4% vs 32.2%, P = 0.0272). Most reactions were currently clinically relevant (BZP-3: 90.4%; BZP-4: 65.8%). Common identified sources included PCPs and sunscreens. Coreactivity between BZP-3 and BZP-4 was low: 13.5% (14/104) of BZP-3-positive patients were allergic to BZP-4 and 4.3% (14/322) of BZP-4-positive patients were allergic to BZP-3. Conclusions: Eight-year prevalence of BZP positivity was 2.1%. Reactions were frequently clinically relevant and linked to PCPs and sunscreens.

Ultraviolet filters in the United States and European Union: A review of safety and implications for the future of US sunscreens

BACKGROUND

Availability of new UV filters in the United States lags behind the European Union (EU), partly due to differing approval processes.

OBJECTIVE

To review available human safety data of all US- and EU-approved UV filters.

METHODS

Data from Food and Drug Administration and EU regulatory guidelines, federal governmental documentation, databases, reviews, and opinions for approval and ongoing safety evaluation were analyzed.

RESULTS

Currently, there are 17 US UV filters and 29 EU UV filters (18 EU-approved only filters). Almost all US filters possessed sensitization data (94%, 16/17) with the majority (76%, 13/17) showing minimal skin sensitization. The minority of EU-approved only filters (33%, 6/18) possessed sensitization data, all showing no sensitization. Some filters possessed dermal absorption data (US: 76%, 13/17; EU: 44%, 8/18). Oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, homosalate, and octocrylene, approved in the US and EU, were shown to have plasma levels exceeding the Food and Drug Administration exposure threshold.

LIMITATIONS

Proprietary manufacturer human data were unavailable.

CONCLUSIONS

Many new UV filters are available in the EU, but not yet in the United States. Rigorous US and EU guidelines ensure that UV filters provide adequate photoprotection assuming consumers follow American Academy of Dermatology SPF (sun protection factor) and broad-spectrum recommendations. Human data are limited, but known human risks of sunscreen appear minimal.

Review on photoprotection: a clinician’s guide to the ingredients, characteristics, adverse effects, and disease-specific benefits of chemical and physical sunscreen compounds

Photoprotection is a critical health prevention strategy to reduce the deleterious effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and visible light (VL). Methods of photoprotection are reviewed in this paper, with an emphasis on sunscreen. The most appropriate sunscreen formulation for personal use depends on several factors. Active sunscreen ingredients vary in their protective effect over the UVR and VL spectrum. There are dermatologic diseases that cause photosensitivity or that are aggravated by a particular action spectrum. In these situations, sunscreen suggestions can address the specific concern. Sunscreen does not represent a single entity. Appropriate personalized sunscreen selection is critical to improve compliance and clinical outcomes. Health care providers can facilitate informed product selection with awareness of evolving sunscreen formulations and counseling patients on appropriate use. This review aims to summarize different forms of photoprotection, discuss absorption of sunscreen ingredients, possible adverse effects, and disease-specific preferences for chemical, physical or oral agents that may decrease UVR and VL harmful effects.

Chitosan-coated mesoporous silica particles as a plastic-free platform for photochemical suppression and stabilization of organic ultraviolet filters

Photochemical instability and reactivity of organic ultraviolet (UV) filters not only degrade the performance of sunscreen formulations but also generate toxic photodegradation products and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Although the encapsulation of organic UV filters into synthetic polymer particles has been widely investigated, synthetic plastics were recently banned for personal care and cosmetic products due to marine and coastal pollution issues. Here we present a plastic-free, photochemically stable and inactive UV filter platform based on chitosan-coated mesoporous silica microparticles, denoted 'mSOCPs', incorporating octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) as a sunscreen agent. Sunlight induced the degradation of ∼80% free OMC in artificial sweat in 1 h at room temperature, while only 20% of OMC degraded for 3 h when encapsulated within mSOCPs. Moreover, mSOCPs efficiently suppressed the photochemical generation of ROS by about 99% through the combined effects of the mesoporous silica structure and chitosan coating. Accordingly, mSOCPs substantially increased the cell viability of fibroblasts exposed to UV irradiation. This work demonstrates that the biopolymer coatings of mesoporous inorganic particles can be a promising approach to the plastic-free encapsulation of organic UV filters for suppressing their photochemical reactivity and degradation.

Alpinia officinarum Rhizome ameliorates the UVB induced photoaging through attenuating the phosphorylation of AKT and ERK

Background

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure is one of the major external factors in skin aging, and repetitive UVB exposure induces extracellular matrix (ECM) damage as well as metabolic disease. Alpinia officinarum Rhizome (AOR) is a medicinal plant that has been traditionally used for treating rheumatism and whooping cough. However, the antiphotoaging effects of AOR remain unclear. We investigated the protective effects of water extracts of AOR (WEAOR) in terms of UVB-mediated ECM damage, wrinkle formation, inflammatory responses, and intracellular signaling on hairless mice and NIH-3T3 skin fibroblast cells.

Methods

WEAOR was administered to UVB-irradiated hairless mice. Wrinkle formation was assessed using the replica assay, epidermal changes through H&E staining, and collagen contents in mice skin through Masson’s trichrome staining. The expression of procollagen type-1 (COL1A1), metalloproteinase-1a (MMP-1a), and inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, IL-8, and MCP-3) in hairless mice skin and NIH-3T3 cells was investigated through qRT-PCR. The effects of WEAOR or signaling inhibitors on UVB-induced expression of intracellular mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) were estimated by Western blotting and qRT-PCR, respectively.

Results

Topical WEAOR significantly attenuated the UVB-induced wrinkle formation and epidermal thickening in the skin of hairless mice. WEAOR treatment also attenuated the UVB-induced expression of MMP-1a and COL1A1 and recovered the reduction of collagen content in mouse skin. These effects were confirmed in NIH-3T3 skin fibroblast cells. WEAOR treatment restored the UVB-induced COL1A1 and MMP-1a gene expression and attenuated the UVB-induced expression of IL-6, IL-8, and MCP-3 in NIH-3T3 cells. Notably, WEAOR attenuated UVB-induced phosphorylation of AKT and ERK, but not that of p38 and JNK in NIH-3T3 cells. In addition, the administration of AKT and ERK inhibitors restored the UVB-induced expression of MMP-1a and COL1A1 to an equal extent as WEAOR in NIH-3T3 cells.

Conclusions

The antiphotoaging properties of WEAOR were first evaluated in this study. Our results suggest that WEAOR may be a potential antiphotoaging agent that ameliorates UVB-induced photoaging processes via the AKT and ERK signaling pathways.

Contact allergens for the allergist

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this article is to provide an overview and describe typically encountered skin contact allergens implicated in allergic contact dermatitis (ACD).

DATA SOURCES

Published literature obtained through textbooks, online PubMed, and Google Scholar database searches, author photography, and adapted figures were used.

STUDY SELECTIONS

Studies on the evaluation of ACD and specific skin contact allergens were selected, with a focus on original research articles and clinical reviews.

RESULTS

Major classifications of common contact allergens include the following: (1) fragrances, (2) preservatives, (3) excipients, (4) rubber chemicals, (5) textile dyes, (6) topical medications, and (6) metals and other biomedical device components. The dermatitis distribution can aid in identifying the suspected contact allergen culprit. Certain contact allergens have features that are important to consider in the patch testing (PT) interpretation; these include possible irritant reactions, false-negative reactions or missed detection, and delayed reactions. Fragrances, preservatives, and excipients are culprits in personal products and facial or neck dermatitis. Patch testing with fragrances, preservatives, and patient-supplied products requires careful interpretation. Hand or foot dermatitis may be attributed to rubber chemicals or textile dyes. The management of topical corticosteroid contact allergy is guided on the basis of structural group classifications. Metal sensitization has been associated with dermatitis or biomedical device complications.

CONCLUSION

Each skin contact allergen has unique characteristics with regard to the dermatitis clinical presentation and potential PT nuances. These features are critical to recognize in the evaluation of ACD and PT interpretation and clinical relevance, leading to an accurate diagnosis.

Patch testing with glucosides: The North American Contact Dermatitis Group experience, 2009-2018

BACKGROUND

Alkyl glucosides are nonionic surfactants that are increasingly used in personal care products.

OBJECTIVE

To characterize positive patch test reactions to decyl glucoside (5% petrolatum, tested 2009-2018) and lauryl glucoside (3% petrolatum, tested 2017-2018).

METHODS

Retrospective analysis of patients tested by the North American Contact Dermatitis Group.

RESULTS

Of 24,097 patients patch tested to decyl and/or lauryl glucoside, 470 (2.0%) had positive reactions. Compared with glucoside-negative patients, glucoside-positive patients had higher odds of occupational skin disease (13.4% vs 10.1%; P = .0207), history of hay fever (38.5% vs 31.6%; P = .0014), atopic dermatitis (39.0% vs 28.6%; P < .0001), and/or asthma (21.8% vs 16.5%; P = .0023). Most glucoside reactions (83.9%) were currently relevant. The most common source was personal care products (63.0%), especially hair products (16.5%) and skin cleansers (15.2%). Of 4933 patients tested to decyl and lauryl glucoside, 134 (2.7%) were positive to 1 or both; 43.4% (43 of 99) of decyl-positive patients were also positive to lauryl glucoside and 55.1% (43/78) of lauryl glucoside patients were also positive to decyl glucoside.

LIMITATIONS

The cohort predominantly reflects a referral population, and follow-up after testing was not captured.

CONCLUSION

Glucoside positivity occurred in 2.0% of the tested patients. Reactions were often clinically relevant and linked to personal care products. Cross-reactivity was >40%.

HPLC-DAD phenolics screening and in vitro investigation of haemostatic, antidiabetic, antioxidant and photoprotective properties of Centaurea tougourensis Boiss. & Reut

Introduction

Traditional medicine has an important place in human history and this since antiquity. Indeed, during Egyptian and Chinese civilization era, many detailed manuscripts, describing the therapeutic effect of plants, were found which suggest that folk medicine is the basis of the actual medicine.

Objective

To investigate the phytochemical and pharmacological properties of the n-butanol (n-BuOH) and ethyl acetate (EA) extracts of the aerial part of Centaurea tougourensis.

Methods

The phytochemical evaluation was done based on HPLC-DAD approach. The antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH and cupric ion reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC), while the hemostatic effect was performed using plasma recalcification time (PRT) method. The antidiabetic capacity was investigated by alpha-amylase inhibition assay and the photoprotective test was evaluated by the measurement of sun protection factor (SPF).

Results

13 phenolic compounds were identified in both extracts of C. tougourensis. These extracts showed antioxidant, haemostatic, antidiabetic and photoprotective properties with a dose-dependent manner. Amounts of n-BuOH activities were found higher, with a respective IC50 value of 0.72±0.07 μg/ml in DPPH assay, an A0.50 value lower than 3.125 μg/ml in CUPRAC assay besides a shortening rate percentage of coagulation (86.71%) in haemostatic assay, a moderate inhibition effect on alpha amylase activity with an IC50 value of (711.5±0.03 μg/ml) and a maximum sun protection factor of (56.035). These results were mostly found highly significant (p<0.001) when compared to respective standards.

Conclusion

This study demonstrated some pharmacological effects of C. tougourensis which suggests that our plant could be a good candidate to treat some illnesses related to oxidative stress, bleeding or skin cancer.

Towards a paradigm shift in environmental health decision-making: a case study of oxybenzone

BACKGROUND

Technological advancements make lives safer and more convenient. Unfortunately, many of these advances come with costs to susceptible individuals and public health, the environment, and other species and ecosystems. Synthetic chemicals in consumer products represent a quintessential example of the complexity of both the benefits and burdens of modern living. How we navigate this complexity is a matter of a society's values and corresponding principles.

OBJECTIVES

We aimed to develop a series of ethical principles to guide decision-making within the landscape of environmental health, and then apply these principles to a specific environmental chemical, oxybenzone. Oxybenzone is a widely used ultraviolet (UV) filter added to personal care products and other consumer goods to prevent UV damage, but potentially poses harm to humans, wildlife, and ecosystems. It provides an excellent example of a chemical that is widely used for the alleged purpose of protecting human health and product safety, but with costs to human health and the environment that are often ignored by stakeholders.

DISCUSSION

We propose six ethical principles to guide environmental health decision-making: principles of sustainability, beneficence, non-maleficence, justice, community, and precautionary substitution. We apply these principles to the case of oxybenzone to demonstrate the complex but imperative decision-making required if we are to address the limits of the biosphere's regenerative rates. We conclude that both ethical and practical considerations should be included in decisions about the commercial, pervasive application of synthetic compounds and that the current flawed practice of cost-benefit analysis be recognized for what it is: a technocratic approach to support corporate interests.

Alaskan Bog Blueberry (Vaccinium uliginosum) Extract as an Innovative Topical Approach to Prevent UV-Induced Skin Damage

Our body is continuously exposed to various exogenous aggressors, and, in particular, the skin represents the main target for outdoor stressors, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV exposure is well-known to be associated with the development/worsening of extrinsic photoaging and a multitude of skin conditions. Considering the role of photoprotection in skin health, the research of natural photoprotective molecules becomes of great importance. Therefore, in this work we wanted to evaluate the beneficial protective effects of ripe berries of Vaccinium uliginosum (Alaska bog blueberry (BB)) extract (100 μg/mL) for preventing the cutaneous oxidative, inflammatory, and structural damage induced by exposure to 200 mJ of UVA/UVB radiation. We observed that the topical application of BB extract on human ex vivo skin explants averted the UV-induced cutaneous OxInflammatory phenomenon by quenching the increase in the oxidative and inflammatory marker levels, such as 4-hydroxynonenal (4HNE), heme-oxygenase-1 (HO-1), cyclooxygenase-2 (COX2), and aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR); as well as by counteracting the loss of structural proteins (filaggrin and involucrin) induced by UV radiation. Our data propose the use of a topical application of Alaska bog blueberry extract as a natural and valuable approach to ensure photoprotection against UV-induced skin damage and premature aging.

Cliona varians-Derived Actinomycetes as Bioresources of Photoprotection-Related Bioactive End-Products

Sunscreen and sunblock are crucial skincare products to prevent photoaging and photocarcinogenesis through the addition of chemical filters to absorb or block ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, several sunscreen and sunblock ingredients, mostly UV filters, have been associated with human and environmental safety concerns. Therefore, the exploration and discovery of promising novel sources of efficient and safer compounds with photoprotection-related activities are currently required. Marine invertebrates, particularly their associated microbiota, are promising providers of specialized metabolites with valuable biotechnological applications. Nevertheless, despite Actinobacteria members being a well-known source of bioactive metabolites, their photoprotective potential has been poorly explored so far. Hence, a set of methanolic extracts obtained from Cliona varians-derived actinomycetes was screened regarding their antioxidant and UV-absorbing capacities (i.e., photoprotection-related activities). The active extract-producing strains were identified and classified within genera Streptomyces, Micrococcus, Gordonia, and Promicromonospora. This is the first report of the isolation of these microorganisms from C. varians (an ecologically important Caribbean coral reef-boring sponge). The in vitro cytotoxicity on dermal fibroblasts of oxybenzone and the selected active extracts revealed that oxybenzone exerted a cytotoxic effect, whereas no cytotoxic effect of test extracts was observed. Accordingly, the most active (SPFi > 5, radical scavenging > 50%) and nontoxic (cell viability > 75%) extracts were obtained from Streptomyces strains. Finally, LC-MS-based characterization suggested a broad chemical space within the test strains and agreed with the reported streptomycetes' chemodiversity. The respective metabolite profiling exposed a strain-specific metabolite occurrence, leading to the recognition of potential hits. These findings suggest that marine Streptomyces produce photoprotectants ought to be further explored in skincare applications.

Ultraviolet filter, fragrance and preservative allergens in New Zealand sunscreens

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

Allergic contact dermatitis, photoallergic contact dermatitis and irritant reactions to sunscreens are common reasons for dermatology consultation. Patch testing for contact allergy relies on up-to-date knowledge of allergen exposures. The aim of this study was to investigate contact allergens and photoallergens in sunscreens commercially sold on the shelves of supermarkets and pharmacies in New Zealand.

METHODS

A comprehensive market data review of suppliers' websites was performed from March to August 2019 to obtain a list of the commonly sold sunscreens in our region. Ingredients were collated and analysed according to International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) names. Ultraviolet (UV) filters, preservatives and fragrances were included for analysis. Place of sale and cost of sunscreens were also recorded.

RESULTS

Ninety-five sunscreens were analysed: 36% sold in supermarkets, 43% in pharmacies and the remainder available in both. The most frequent UV filters were butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (contained in 70% of products) followed by octocrylene (63%) and homosalate (50%). The common photoallergen benzophenone 3 was found in 19% of products. Phenoxyethanol was the most common preservative (68%) followed by disodium EDTA (30%) and propylparaben (26%). Two sunscreens contained methylisothiazolinone. Sixty-one per cent contained at least one fragrance, the most frequent being limonene (17%) and linalool (13%). There was an average of 1.1 New Zealand baseline series allergens per product (range 0 to 6, standard deviation 1.27).

CONCLUSION

Common allergens including those with high sensitising potential were frequently found in New Zealand sunscreen. Knowledge of ingredients used by manufacturers is useful in dermatological assessment of skin contact reactions.

Xeroderma Pigmentosum: General Aspects and Management

Xeroderma Pigmentosum (XP) is a rare genetic syndrome with a defective DNA nucleotide excision repair. It is characterized by (i) an extreme sensitivity to ultraviolet (UV)-induced damages in the skin and eyes; (ii) high risk to develop multiple skin tumours; and (iii) neurologic alterations in the most severe form. To date, the management of XP patients consists of (i) early diagnosis; (ii) a long-life protection from ultraviolet radiation, including avoidance of unnecessary UV exposure, wearing UV blocking clothing, and use of topical sunscreens; and (iii) surgical resections of skin cancers. No curative treatment is available at present. Thus, in the last decade, in order to prevent or delay the progression of the clinical signs of XP, numerous strategies have been proposed and tested, in some cases, with adverse effects. The present review provides an overview of the molecular mechanisms featuring the development of XP and highlights both advantages and disadvantages of the clinical approaches developed throughout the years. The intention of the authors is to sensitize scientists to the crucial aspects of the pathology that could be differently targeted. In this context, the exploration of the process underlining the conception of liposomal nanocarriers is reported to focus the attention on the potentialities of liposomal technology to optimize the administration of chemoprotective agents in XP patients.

Interventions to Increase Sunscreen Use in Adults: A Review of the Literature

Skin cancers are the most common malignancy in Australia. Regular sunscreen use can reduce the incidence of cutaneous squamous cell carcinomas and actinic keratoses and has been associated with reducing the incidence of basal cell carcinomas and melanomas. However, sunscreen effectiveness is limited by the failure of the population to use it routinely. Interventions that promote the daily application of sunscreen may reduce the morbidity, mortality, and economic burden associated with skin malignancies. We reviewed the literature that examines the effectiveness of interventions to increase routine sunscreen use and found that no one strategy has been shown to be clearly effective in adults and that relatively few studies have aimed to increase routine use in groups at extreme skin cancer risk. Future research should consider how interventions can be best designed and how sunscreen use is measured so that cost-effective, feasible strategies that result in improved sunscreen use in adults can be established.

Fragrance, Sunscreens, Botanicals, and Potential Allergens in Bestseller 'Fairness' Creams in the Indian Market: A Consumer Exposure Study

Background

The skin lightening industry has seen exponential growth in India. Consumers often present to the dermatologist with adverse cutaneous reactions to these 'fairness' (skin lightening) creams. The composition of these creams has not received sufficient attention.

Objective

To identify fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals and potential allergens in the bestseller 'fairness' creams available in the Indian market.

Methods

Twenty fairness (or whitening or lightening) creams were selected based on the 'bestseller' creams of one of the largest electronic commerce websites in India, and availability in local stores and unlabelled brands were excluded. Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals and potential allergens were identified from the ingredient labels.

Results

Twenty bestseller fairness creams were included. The number of the listed ingredients in the fairness creams ranged from 6 to 49 (mean = 32.2). The most frequently listed ingredients included water, fragrance or parfum, glycerin, tocopherol/tocopherylacetate and titanium dioxide. Hydroquinone, monobenzyl hydroquinone, corticosteroids, tretinoin and mercury were not listed in any of the creams. Unspecified fragrance was listed in 19 (95%) creams and linalool (8,40%) was the most frequent specified fragrance. Titanium dioxide (14, 70 %) was the most common inorganic sunscreen and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (12 creams or 60% of creams) was the most common organic sunscreen. Twenty-seven botanicals were identified. Eight ingredients were potential allergens according to the Indian Cosmetic and Fragrance Series. The cost of the creams ranged from 95 to 1,095 in Indian rupees (mean 300.5).

Conclusions

Consumers are exposed to a vast range of compounds in the quest for a lighter skin tone. Several potential allergens, particularly fragrance allergens, are present in addition to the eight allergens that were identified with the Indian Cosmetic and Fragrance Series. Increased awareness of the composition of skin lightening creams available in the market and strict regulation of these creams is needed.

In Vitro Evaluation of the Photoprotective Potential of Quinolinic Alkaloids Isolated from the Antarctic Marine Fungus Penicillium echinulatum for Topical Use

Marine-derived fungi proved to be a rich source of biologically active compounds. The genus Penicillium has been extensively studied regarding their secondary metabolites and biological applications. However, the photoprotective effects of these metabolites remain underexplored. Herein, the photoprotective potential of Penicillium echinulatum, an Antarctic alga-associated fungus, was assessed by UV absorption, photostability study, and protection from UVA-induced ROS generation assay on human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and reconstructed human skin (RHS). The photosafety was evaluated by the photoreactivity (OECD TG 495) and phototoxicity assays, performed by 3T3 neutral red uptake (3T3 NRU PT, OECD TG 432) and by the RHS model. Through a bio-guided purification approach, four known alkaloids, (-)-cyclopenin (1), dehydrocyclopeptine (2), viridicatin (3), and viridicatol (4), were isolated. Compounds 3 and 4 presented absorption in UVB and UVA-II regions and were considered photostable after UVA irradiation. Despite compounds 3 and 4 showed phototoxic potential in 3T3 NRU PT, no phototoxicity was observed in the RHS model (reduction of cell viability < 30%), which indicates their very low acute photoirritation and high photosafety potential in humans. Viridicatin was considered weakly photoreactive, while viridicatol showed no photoreactivity; both compounds inhibited UVA-induced ROS generation in HaCaT cells, although viridicatol was not able to protect the RHS model against UVA-induced ROS production. Thus, the results highlighted the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of metabolites produced by P. echinulatum which can be considered a new class of molecules for photoprotection, since their photosafety and non-cytotoxicity were predicted using recommended in vitro methods for topical use.

The Role of Photoprotection in Optimizing the Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease with an estimated prevalence of 10-15% in children and 2-10% in adults. Clinically, there is notable phenotypic variability driven by a complex interaction between genetics, immune function, and the environment. Impairment of the skin barrier plays a significant role in the pathogenesis of AD. The apparent beneficial effect of sunlight in patients with atopic eczema is questioned due to its capacity to disrupt the skin barrier and generate free radicals that can damage proteins, lipids, and DNA. The sum of the external factors that an individual is exposed to throughout their lifetime is termed the exposome. Environmental factors such as sun exposure, temperature, and humidity contribute to both AD flares and regional prevalence variation. Literature on photoprotection in atopic dermatitis is very scarce. The use of adequate sunscreens in atopic dermatitis can ensure the level of photoprotection required to prevent skin photoaging and skin cancer and to mitigate skin barrier dysfunction, decrease inflammation, and neutralize facial redness. Herein we discuss and review the role of UV radiation and the exposome in the etiology of AD, as well as the role of adequate photoprotection.

Ultraviolet filters in sunscreens and cosmetic products-A market survey

BACKGROUND

As several reports have raised a variety of environmental, health, and safety issues related to ultraviolet (UV) filters, it is crucial to understand the trends in the exposure of the population to UV filters.

OBJECTIVE

To determine the frequency of UV filter usage in sunscreens and other cosmetic products in Thai market.

METHODS

We surveyed the UV filter labelling on sunscreens and cosmetic products sold in the Thai market. In all, 312 sunscreens and 1350 other cosmetic products were investigated.

RESULTS

Titanium dioxide was the most frequently used UV filter in both sunscreens (66.7%) and other cosmetic products (68.4%). Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate was the most common organic UVB filter, whereas butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane was the most common organic UVA filter. In sunscreens aimed at children, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine was the most commonly used UV filter. The most frequent co-occurrence of UV filters was titanium dioxide and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

CONCLUSIONS

Titanium dioxide was the most commonly used UV filter, which differs from the findings of previous surveys. Knowing the availability and frequency of each UV filter provides valuable information about consumer exposure levels, facilitates refinements of the allergen series in patch testing, and enhances the monitoring of adverse effects of UV filters.

Sunscreens: UV filters to protect us: Part 2-Increasing awareness of UV filters and their potential toxicities to us and our environment

BACKGROUND

Sunscreens are topical preparations containing one or more compounds that filter, block, reflect, scatter, or absorb ultraviolet (UV) light. Part 2 of this review focuses on the environmental, ecological effects and human toxicities that have been attributed to UV filters.

METHODS

Literature review using NIH databases (eg, PubMed and Medline), FDA and EPA databases, Google Scholar, the Federal Register, and the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR).

LIMITATIONS

This was a retrospective literature review that involved many different types of studies across a variety of species. Comparison between reports is limited by variations in methodology and criteria for toxicity.

CONCLUSIONS

In vivo and in vitro studies on the environmental and biological effects of UV filters show a wide array of unanticipated adverse effects on the environment and exposed organisms. Coral bleaching receives considerable attention from the lay press, but the scientific literature identifies potential toxicities of endocrine, neurologic, neoplastic and developmental pathways. These effects harm a vast array of aquatic and marine biota, while almost no data supports human toxicity at currently used quantities (with the exception of contact allergy). Much of these data are from experimental studies or field observations; more controlled environmental studies and long-term human use data are limited. Several jurisdictions have prohibited specific UV filters, but this does not adequately address the dichotomy of the benefits of photoprotection vs lack of eco-friendly, safe, and FDA-approved alternatives.

Melaleuca leucadendron (L.) L. flower extract exhibits antioxidant and photoprotective activities in human keratinocytes exposed to ultraviolet B radiation

Recently, there has been a demand for the replacement of chemical sunscreens with natural compounds that could prevent or restore UV-induced skin damage. Here, we investigated the photoprotective influence of the Melaleuca leucadendron ethanolic flower extract (EEMec) on factors involved in cellular and molecular UVB-induced oxidative stress in human skin keratinocytes (HaCaT). The phytochemical constituents, antioxidant potential by DPPH assay, content of total phenolic and flavonoid compounds in EEMec were evaluated. HaCaT cells were treated with EEMec followed by irradiation with UVB. CAT activity; GSH and ROS levels; and SOD1, GPx, CAT and COX-2 expression assays were employed to verify the oxidative stress, as well as EEMec effect on transmembrane transport, and pro-inflammatory and pro-apoptotic protein expression. EEMec reverted the viability loss of HaCaT cells after irradiation with UVB, exhibited significant antioxidant capacity and free radical scavenging activity in vitro, inhibited COX-2 expression and ensure protection of DNA-damage. EEMec shown a great photoprotective property to prevent keratinocytes damage induced by UV radiation and, thus a candidate potential to application as an adjuvant in sunscreen formulations as a strategy to reduce risk of sunburn and prevent skin diseases associated with UV-induced inflammation and cancer.

Radioprotectors.org: an open database of known and predicted radioprotectors

The search for radioprotectors is an ambitious goal with many practical applications. Particularly, the improvement of human radioresistance for space is an important task, which comes into view with the recent successes in the space industry. Currently, all radioprotective drugs can be divided into two large groups differing in their effectiveness depending on the type of exposure. The first of these is radioprotectors, highly effective for pulsed, and some types of relatively short exposure to irradiation. The second group consists of long-acting radioprotectors. These drugs are effective for prolonged and fractionated irradiation. They also protect against impulse exposure to ionizing radiation, but to a lesser extent than short-acting radioprotectors. Creating a database on radioprotectors is a necessity dictated by the modern development of science and technology. We have created an open database, Radioprotectors.org, containing an up-to-date list of substances with proven radioprotective properties. All radioprotectors are annotated with relevant chemical and biological information, including transcriptomic data, and can be filtered according to their properties. Additionally, the performed transcriptomics analysis has revealed specific transcriptomic profiles of radioprotectors, which should facilitate the search for potent radioprotectors.

Ultraviolet filters in sunscreen products labeled for use in children and for sensitive skin

BACKGROUND

The active ingredients in sunscreen products are ultraviolet (UV) filters, many of which are known potential allergens. The use of sunscreen in younger children and individuals with sensitive skin requires special attention, since absorption and allergen sensitization are of concern.

OBJECTIVE

This study aims to evaluate the ultraviolet filters in sunscreen products labeled specifically for "kids" or as "sensitive/hypoallergenic" and compare these to general sunscreen products.

METHODS

From December 2017 to March 2018, the ingredient labels on commercially available sunscreen products in Bangkok, Thailand, were analyzed.

RESULTS

Two hundred and forty-six sunscreen products were examined. Of these, twenty products (8.1%) were marketed for "kids." Forty-one products (16.6%) were labeled as "sensitive" or "hypoallergenic." Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) and benzophenone-3 (BP3) were less prevalent in products for children [(P = .004) and (P = .029), respectively]. Eighty-five percent of sunscreen products labeled for kids contained at least one chemical UV filter. There was no significant difference between BP3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM), and octocrylene (OCR) in products labeled for sensitive skin compared to products with no specific labels. Moreover, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) was more commonly found in products for sensitive skin than in nonsensitive products (P = .001).

CONCLUSIONS

Common allergenic UV filters were found in sunscreens labeled as sensitive and for children. Regulations for displaying these specific labels should be established for improved benefits and safety to allergy-prone skin.

Phycocosmetics and Other Marine Cosmetics, Specific Cosmetics Formulated Using Marine Resources

Marine resources exist in vast numbers and show enormous diversity. As a result, there are likely many possible applications for marine molecules of interest in the cosmetic industry, whether as excipients or additives, but especially as active substances. It is possible to obtain extracts from active substances; for example, quite a few algae species can be used in moisturizing or anti-ageing products. In the field of topical photoprotection, mycosporine-like amino acids and gadusol are important lines of enquiry that should not be overlooked. In the field of additives, the demonstration that certain seaweed (algae) extracts have antimicrobial properties suggests that they could provide alternatives to currently authorized preservatives. These promising leads must be explored, but it should be kept in mind that it is a long process to bring ingredients to market that are both effective and safe to use.

Insights into the photoprotection mechanism of the UV filter homosalate

Homosalate has been found to exhibit favourable photophysics for inclusion in sunscreens, using a combination of spectroscopic and computational approaches.

Anti-aging and Sunscreens: Paradigm Shift in Cosmetics

Skin, being one of the vital organs and a protective barrier needs to be pampered and taken care of from early childhood. It is the most visible and the widest exposed organ and by far reflects the general health condition and the aging process in humans. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors contribute to this complex biological process of skin aging. In recent times, skin health and its beauty is perceived as an indicator of one’s health which has resulted in an increasing demand for anti-aging products. Exposure to UV radiation is considered to be one of the factors responsible for aging termed as photoaging. In this review, we have discussed the various factors which may accelerate the process of skin aging. Various approaches and strategies to delay the process of skin aging have been emphasized upon. The patents filed in the area of anti-aging and sunscreen products have also been reviewed to gain an insight into the new formulations which have been developed as an anti-aging product. There has been a tremendous rise in the cosmetic and cosmeceuticals market with products having a dual activity of anti-aging and sun protection. Research is constantly on the rise to ensure the safety of these products. Alternatives to the current topical application of sunscreen are being considered to overcome the drawback of reapplication of the sunscreen often which can be a boon to the cosmeceutical market.

Beyond sun protection factor: An approach to environmental protection with novel mineral coatings in a vehicle containing a blend of skincare ingredients

Background

Premature skin aging results from exposure to a range of environmental factors, primarily ultraviolet radiation, but also high‐energy visible light in the blue spectrum, infrared radiation, and environmental pollution. These extrinsic factors result in the generation of reactive oxygen species which promote photoaging and DNA damage resulting in skin cancers.

Aims

To formulate skincare products utilizing a new coating applied to zinc oxide and titanium dioxide particles and complimentary skincare ingredients to provide broad protection against a range of environmental insults.

Methods

A cross‐polymer, multifunctional coating of silicate, polyalkylsilsesquioxane, and polydimethylsiloxane moieties increases the photostability and decreases the reactivity of mineral sunscreen agents when interacting with energy sources. These products are also formulated with antioxidants to minimize free radical propagation. Additionally, this coating improves the esthetic feel of mineral sunscreens, while the appearance is enhanced by formulating products with a blend of iron oxides.

Results

A series of in vitro and ex vivo studies demonstrated the ability of mineral‐based products formulated with the new multifunctional coating to provide protection against ultraviolet radiation, high‐energy visible light, infrared radiation, and environmental pollution.

Conclusion

Newly formulated mineral‐based skincare products provide environmental protection, are ecologically safe, and can replace chemical‐based sunscreen ingredients.

Potential allergenicity of commonly sold high SPF broad spectrum sunscreens in the United States; from the perspective of patients with autoimmune skin disease

Background

Lack of established criteria for sunscreen product recommendations and potentially allergenic ingredients in sunscreens pose an issue for physicians and patients with autoimmune skin conditions.

Objective

We reviewed popular sunscreens for effectiveness and potential allergenicity for recommendation and use in the autoimmune skin condition population.

Methods

In this cohort study, we selected sunscreens from the bestseller lists of Amazon, Target, and CVS. Of those, sunscreens with sun protection factor of 50 to 99 and 100 that met our effectiveness criteria (52 sunscreens) were analyzed for allergenic ingredients. An allergen list was developed from the North American Contact Dermatitis Group core data and stratified into low-prevalence and high-prevalence allergens.

Results

The allergenicity of popular sunscreens that met our effectiveness criteria are organized in a table by number of tiered potential allergens. Although no sunscreen was allergen-free, several products contained a minimal number of low-prevalence allergens. The most common low-prevalence allergens were chemical sunscreen ingredients avobenzone, octocrylene, and oxybenzone, and the most common high-prevalence allergen was fragrance. A limitation is that not all U.S. sunscreens were analyzed.

Conclusion

With the wide range of sunscreens available, physicians and patients should be aware of the effectiveness and potential allergenicity of sunscreens and make recommendations and consumption choices accordingly.

Biodegradable bioadhesive nanoparticle incorporation of broad-spectrum organic sunscreen agents

Conventional emulsion-based sunscreen formulations are limited by postapplication epicutaneous penetration that increases the risk of allergic dermatitis, cellular damage, and filter photodegradation upon ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure. Encapsulation of the UVB filter padimate O within bioadhesive biodegradable nanoparticles (BNPs) composed of poly(d,l-lactic acid)-hyperbranched polyglycerol was previously shown to enhance UVR protection while preventing skin absorption. Herein, we assess the capacity of BNP co-incorporation of avobenzone and octocrylene to provide broad-spectrum UVR protection. The ratio of UV filters within nanoparticles (NPs) was optimized for filter-filter stabilization upon UV irradiation and maximum drug loading. In vitro water-resistance test showed significant particle retention at 85% over 3 hr. In a pilot clinical study, protection against UVR-induced erythema of BNPs was found to be comparable to the FDA standard P2. Thus, sunscreen formulations utilizing BNP incorporation of a combination of organic filters may offer key safety and performance advantages.

Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti-ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin-conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.