Recent Advancements in Natural Plant Colorants Used for Hair Dye Applications: A Review

There is an on-going demand in recent years for safer and "greener" hair coloring agents with the global consumer awareness of the adverse effects of synthetic hair dyes. The belief in sustainability and health benefits has focused the attention of the scientific community towards natural colorants that serve to replace their synthetic toxic counterparts. This review article encompasses the historical applications of a vast array of natural plant hair dyes and summarizes the possible coloration mechanisms (direct dyeing and mordant dyeing). Current information on phytochemicals (quinones, tannins, flavonoids, indigo, curcuminoids and carotenoids) used for hair dyeing are summarized, including their botanical sources, color chemistry and biological/toxicological activities. A particular focus is given on research into new natural hair dye sources along with eco-friendly, robust and cost-effective technologies for their processing and applications, such as the synthetic biology approach for colorant production, encapsulation techniques for stabilization and the development of inorganic nanocarriers. In addition, innovative in vitro approaches for the toxicological assessments of natural hair dye cosmetics are highlighted.

Impact of mono-culture vs. Co-culture of keratinocytes and monocytes on cytokine responses induced by important skin sensitizers

Sensitization to a contact allergen brings with it a lifelong risk to develop allergic contact dermatitis. Inflammation is an important part of the skin sensitizing mechanism, and understanding how different haptens stimulate the immune system, as well as the role played by different cell types present in skin, may be helpful for developing optimized in vitro models for risk assessment of new chemicals or mixtures. The aim of this study was to compare the cytokine profile following exposure of cells representing keratinocytes (HaCaT), monocytes (THP-1) and a co-culture of these cells to three clinically important skin sensitizers: cobalt (II) chloride (CoCl₂), methylisothiazolinone (MI) and p-phenylenediamine (PPD). Secretion of ten pro-inflammatory cytokines was measured using multiplexing. The results showed that the cytokine response differed substantially between the three cell assays. CoCl₂ caused an increase of IL-8 in HaCaT cells, while the induction of also IL-13 and IL-1β was observed in THP-1 cells and co-cultures. MI induced six cytokines in HaCaT cells but only IL-1β in the THP-1 cells and four cytokines in the co-culture. Interestingly, the IL-1β response was massive in the co-culture. PPD caused release of IL-1β in all three models as well as IL-8 in the co-culture. Control experiments with two non-sensitizers and irritants (lactic acid and sodium dodecyl sulfate) showed no effect on IL-8 or IL-1β in the co-culture. Taken together, results from this exploratory analysis show unique cytokine profiles dependent on the type of hapten and cell model. Importantly, all three haptens triggered secretion of IL-1β and IL-8 in a co-culture of HaCaT cells and THP-1 cells, representing the most robust test system.

Application of the adverse outcome pathway framework for investigating skin sensitization potential of nanomaterials using new approach methods

BACKGROUND

Currently, considerable efforts to standardize methods for accurate assessment of properties and safety aspects of nanomaterials are being made. However, immunomodulation effects upon skin exposure to nanomaterial have not been explored.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the immunotoxicity of single-wall carbon nanotubes, titanium dioxide, and fullerene using the current mechanistic understanding of skin sensitization by applying the concept of adverse outcome pathway (AOP).

METHODS

Investigation of the ability of nanomaterials to interact with skin proteins using the micro-direct peptide reactivity assay; the expression of CD86 cell surface marker using the U937 cell activation test (OECD No. 442E/2018); and the effects of nanomaterials on modulating inflammatory response through inflammatory cytokine release by U937 cells.

RESULTS

The nanomaterials easily internalized into keratinocytes cells, interacted with skin proteins, and triggered activation of U937 cells by increasing CD86 expression and modulating inflammatory cytokine production. Consequently, these nanomaterials were classified as skin sensitizers in vitro.

CONCLUSIONS

Our study suggests the potential immunotoxicity of nanomaterials and highlights the importance of studying the immunotoxicity and skin sensitization potential of nanomaterials to anticipate possible human health risks using standardized mechanistic nonanimal methods with high predictive accuracy. Therefore, it contributes toward the applicability of existing OECD (Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development) testing guidelines for accurate assessment of nanomaterial skin sensitization potential.

Safety testing of adult novelties using in vitro methods

Despite widespread and prolonged use of adult novelties, their health safety is not regularly tested or legally regulated. In the EU, adult novelties are subjected to the General Product Safety Directive, placing the burden of proof regarding safe products onto the manufacturers. The aim of our pilot study was to expand knowledge on potential application of in vitro methods for hazard prediction of extracts from final products. We subjected extracts of 20 adult novelties, purchased on the Czech market to toxicological tests including NRU cytotoxicity assay, sensitization tests DPRA and LuSens and the YES/YAS endocrine assay. Four samples produced cytotoxicity. Sensitization potential was recorded by DPRA (three samples) while the LuSens reported ten samples. Regarding endocrine disruption, three samples produced antiestrogen and antiandrogen effects. Six samples exhibited androgenic potential and one sample showed estrogenic potential. Positive results with possible health effects were recorded repeatedly for samples made of ABS, PVC and latex. The study has confirmed promising usefulness of our test methods combination with regard to safety testing of this type of consumer products. The results should be evaluated with care, however, the data bring added-value to the limited knowledge of mixture toxicology and are indicative for further testing.

An integrated transcriptomic- and proteomic-based approach to evaluate the human skin sensitization potential of glyphosate and its commercial agrochemical formulations

We investigated the skin sensitization hazard of glyphosate, the surfactant polyethylated tallow amine (POEA) and two commercial glyphosate-containing formulations using different omics-technologies based on a human dendritic cell (DC)-like cell line. First, the GARD™skin assay, investigating changes in the expression of 200 transcripts upon cell exposure to xenobiotics, was used for skin sensitization prediction. POEA and the formulations were classified as skin sensitizers while glyphosate alone was classified as a non-sensitizer. Interestingly, the mixture of POEA together with glyphosate displayed a similar sensitizing prediction as POEA alone, indicating that glyphosate likely does not increase the sensitizing capacity when associated with POEA. Moreover, mass spectrometry analysis identified differentially regulated protein groups and predicted molecular pathways based on a proteomic approach in response to cell exposures with glyphosate, POEA and the glyphosate-containing formulations. Based on the protein expression data, predicted pathways were linked to immunologically relevant events and regulated proteins further to cholesterol biosynthesis and homeostasis as well as to autophagy, identifying novel aspects of DC responses after exposure to xenobiotics. In summary, we here present an integrative analysis involving advanced technologies to elucidate the molecular mechanisms behind DC activation in the skin sensitization process triggered by the investigated agrochemical materials. SIGNIFICANCE: The use of glyphosate has increased worldwide, and much effort has been made to improve risk assessments and to further elucidate the mechanisms behind any potential human health hazard of this chemical and its agrochemical formulations. In this context, omics-based techniques can provide a multiparametric approach, including several biomarkers, to expand the mechanistic knowledge of xenobiotics-induced toxicity. Based on this, we performed the integration of GARD™skin and proteomic data to elucidate the skin sensitization hazard of POEA, glyphosate and its two commercial mixtures, and to investigate cellular responses more in detail on protein level. The proteomic data indicate the regulation of immune response-related pathways and proteins associated with cholesterol biosynthesis and homeostasis as well as to autophagy, identifying novel aspects of DC responses after exposure to xenobiotics. Therefore, our data show the applicability of a multiparametric integrated approach for the mechanism-based hazard evaluation of xenobiotics, eventually complementing decision making in the holistic risk assessment of chemicals regarding their allergenic potential in humans.

Chemical Compounds Responsible for Skin Allergy to Complex Mixtures: How to Identify Them?

In the cosmetics industry, various natural complex mixtures such as botanical extracts and essential oils are used. In addition, finished consumer products may contain a number of constituents of natural origin but many products are derived from organic synthesis too. Hence, finding skin sensitizers within this myriad of chemicals is an arduous task. Nowadays, methods validated by European dedicated instances to evaluate the allergenicity of chemicals are incapable of predicting the sensitization potential of complex mixtures, although research has progressed a lot in this direction recently. In this context, precisely identifying the culprit(s) responsible for skin sensitization in these mixtures is essential for risk assessment. This review is a short summary of approaches that identify allergens in chemical mixtures such as bioassay-guided chemical fractionation, structure–activity relationship studies, and recent methods allowing identification of reactive intermediates in natural extracts exposed to air oxidation. It is shown that substantial progress has been made, although the identification of sensitizers in complex mixtures continues to be puzzling.