Natural ingredients in cosmetic products-A suggestion for a screening series for skin allergy

Comparison of patch testing Brazilian (Green) propolis and Chinese (poplar-type) propolis: Clinical epidemiological study using data from the Information Network of Departments of Dermatology (IVDK)

BACKGROUND

Propolis types differ regarding their chemical composition.

OBJECTIVES

To compare patch test results based on Brazilian (Green) propolis with data based on Chinese (poplar-type) propolis, and to evaluate the specifications of raw materials used for the PT preparations.

METHODS

In the Information Network of Departments of Dermatology (IVDK), 1290 consecutive patients were patch tested with Brazilian (Green) propolis (NH400, SmartPractice Europe). Patch test reactivity was compared with results obtained with Chinese (poplar-type) propolis (NA71, SmartPractice Europe) by calculating frequencies and corresponding 95% confidence intervals. Data on the specifications of raw materials used for NH400 and NA71 were obtained from the manufacturer.

RESULTS

Positive reactions to NH400 were found in 303 (23.5%) patients with unclear clinical relevance in most cases. Patients reacting to NH400 were less often sensitised to fragrances and colophony, but more often to nickel sulphate and cobalt chloride than patients reacting to NA71. The NH400 batch used contained high levels of aerobic bacteria, and was not purified by ethanolic extraction.

CONCLUSIONS

Pattern of concomitant reactivity along with raw material properties suggests that the high frequency of positive reactions to NH400 may primarily result from bacterial contamination or impurities in the PT preparation rather than from propolis constituents.

The influence of Leucidal, a natural cosmetic preservative, on fibroblast and keratinocytes. Studies on cells and on model membrane systems

The aim of this work was to investigate the influence of Leucidal® Liquid (abbr. Leucidal), which is recommended as a natural cosmetic ingredient of antimicrobial properties, on model membranes of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. The toxicity tests on cell lines were also performed to allow for a more detailed discussion of the results. As model membrane systems the lipid Langmuir monolayers were applied. During the investigations, the surface pressure/area measurements, penetration studies and Brewster Angle Microscopy (BAM) visualization were performed for one component and mixed lipid monolayers. It was evidenced that at the membrane - corresponding conditions, the components of Leucidal do not penetrate either model keratinocyte and fibroblast membranes or one component films composed of the major lipids of skin cell membranes. Leucidal makes these systems slightly more expanded and less stable, however this is not reflected in the changes in the film morphology. Only the ceramide systems were sensitive to the presence of Leucidal, i.e. the incorporation of Leucidal components manifested well in the decrease of the films' condensation and alterations in their morphology. The tests on cells demonstrated that Leucidal is non toxic for these types of cells at the concentrations suggested by the producer. A thorough comparison of these results with those published for bacteria model membranes enabled us to discuss them in the context of the mechanism of action of Leucidal components. It was concluded that Leucidal components are of low affinity to the skin cellular model membranes of low content of Leucidal-sensitive ceramides and are not toxic for fibroblast and keratinocyte cell lines. Moreover, the lipid composition of the membrane and its molecular organization can be important targets for Leucidal components, decisive from the point of view of the activity and selectivity of the studied composition.

Engineering natural molecule-triggered genetic control systems for tunable gene- and cell-based therapies

The ability to precisely control activities of engineered designer cells provides a novel strategy for modern precision medicine. Dynamically adjustable gene- and cell-based precision therapies are recognized as next generation medicines. However, the translation of these controllable therapeutics into clinical practice is severely hampered by the lack of safe and highly specific genetic switches controlled by triggers that are nontoxic and side-effect free. Recently, natural products derived from plants have been extensively explored as trigger molecules to control genetic switches and synthetic gene networks for multiple applications. These controlled genetic switches could be further introduced into mammalian cells to obtain synthetic designer cells for adjustable and fine tunable cell-based precision therapy. In this review, we introduce various available natural molecules that were engineered to control genetic switches for controllable transgene expression, complex logic computation, and therapeutic drug delivery to achieve precision therapy. We also discuss current challenges and prospects in translating these natural molecule-controlled genetic switches developed for biomedical applications from the laboratory to the clinic.

S2k-Leitlinie Diagnostik, Prävention und Therapie des Handekzems: S2k guideline diagnosis, prevention and therapy of hand eczema

Die S2k‐Leitlinie „Diagnostik, Prävention und Therapie des Handekzems (HE)“ gibt auf der Grundlage eines evidenz‐ und konsensbasierten Ansatzes konkrete Handlungsanweisungen und Empfehlungen für die Diagnostik, Prävention und Therapie des HE. Die Leitlinie wurde auf der Grundlage der deutschen Leitlinie „Management von Handekzemen“ aus dem Jahr 2009 und der aktuellen Leitlinie der European Society of Contact Dermatitis (ESCD) „Guidelines for diagnosis, prevention and treatment of hand eczema“ aus dem Jahr 2022 erstellt. Allgemeines Ziel der Leitlinie ist es, Dermatologen und Allergologen in der Praxis und Klinik eine akzeptierte, evidenzbasierte Entscheidungshilfe für die Auswahl sowie Durchführung einer geeigneten und suffizienten Therapie für Patienten mit Handekzemen zur Verfügung zu stellen. Die Leitlinie basiert auf zwei Cochrane‐Reviews zu therapeutischen und präventiven Interventionen beim HE. Die übrigen Kapitel wurden überwiegend basierend auf nicht systematischen Literaturrecherchen durch die Expertengruppe erarbeitet und konsentiert. Die Expertenkommission bestand aus Mitgliedern von allergologischen und berufsdermatologischen Fachgesellschaften und Arbeitsgruppen, einer Patientenvertretung und Methodikern. Im Rahmen einer Konsensuskonferenz am 15.09.2022 wurden die Vorschläge für die Empfehlungen und Kernaussagen unter Verwendung eines nominalen Gruppenprozesses konsentiert. Der strukturierte Konsensfindungsprozess wurde professionell moderiert. Die vorliegende Leitlinie hat eine Gültigkeit bis zum 22.02.2028.

S2k guideline diagnosis, prevention, and therapy of hand eczema

The consensus-based guideline "Diagnosis, prevention, and treatment of hand eczema (HE)" provides concrete instructions and recommendations for diagnosis, prevention, and therapy of HE based on an evidence- and consensus-based approach. The guideline was created based on the German guideline "Management von Handekzemen" from 2009 and the current guideline of the European Society of Contact Dermatitis (ESCD) "Guidelines for diagnosis, prevention, and treatment of hand eczema" from 2022. The general goal of the guideline is to provide dermatologists and allergologists in practice and clinics with an accepted, evidence-based decision-making tool for selecting and conducting suitable and sufficient therapy for patients with hand eczema. The guideline is based on two Cochrane reviews of therapeutic and preventive interventions for HE. The remaining chapters were mainly developed and consented based on non-systematic literature research by the expert group. The expert group consisted of members of allergological and occupational dermatological professional associations and working groups, a patient representative, and methodologists. The proposals for recommendations and key statements were consented by using a nominal group process during a consensus conference on September 15, 2022. The structured consensus-building process was professionally moderated. This guideline is valid until February 22, 2028.

Biowaxes from Palm Oil as Promising Candidates for Cosmetic Matrices and Pharmaceuticals for Human Use

The production of waxes from vegetable oils, such as palm oil, for use as a base material in products for human applications is an alternative to those derived from petroleum and animals. Seven palm oil-derived waxes, called biowaxes (BW1-BW7) in this work, were obtained by catalytic hydrotreating of refined and bleached African palm oil and refined palm kernel oil. They were characterized by three properties: compositional, physicochemical (melting point, penetration value, and pH), and biological (sterility, cytotoxicity, phototoxicity, antioxidant, and irritant). Their morphologies and chemical structures were studied by SEM, FTIR, UV-Vis, and ¹H NMR. The BWs presented structures and compositions similar to natural biowaxes (beeswax and carnauba). They had a high concentration of waxy esters (17%-36%) with long alkyl chains (C, 19-26) per carbonyl group, which are related to high melting points (<20-47.9 °C) and low penetration values (2.1-3.8 mm). They also proved to be sterile materials with no cytotoxic, phototoxic, antioxidant, or irritant activity. The biowaxes studied could be used in cosmetic and pharmacological products for human use.

User Experience in Cosmetics: Perception Analysis Regarding the Use of an Anti-Aging Moisturizer

One of the most important characteristics of aging skin is dehydration, which is why the use of moisturizing products is very important, especially with increasing age. Thus, the user’s experience when using a product is interesting for the companies to develop specific cosmetics not only considering the physiological needs of each skin, but also according to the preference of a group if there is any. For this, a moisturizer was developed, containing an antioxidant active, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, whose sensory characteristics were evaluated by 33 Brazilian women between 30 and 60 years old. The results showed that the formulation was well accepted by all subjects, regardless of their age group, initial hydration, or the presence of visible signs of skin aging. It is suggested that the presence of the active ingredient in different concentrations caused a different perception of the formula for specific attributes such as the aqueous residue, film formation, and the feelings of oiliness and stickiness to the skin after application. These results suggest that the perception of the sensory characteristics of the product was more related to the nature and proportion of the compounds than to the age of the subjects.

The role of skin inflammation, barrier dysfunction, and oral tolerance in skin sensitization to gluten-derived hydrolysates in a rat model

BACKGROUND

Adverse reactions to wheat-containing skin care products have been linked to food allergy development.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the role of skin barrier dysfunction and inflammation in sensitization to gluten-derived hydrolysates via the skin in Brown Norway rats with and without oral tolerance to wheat.

METHODS

Skin barrier defect was induced by mechanical disruption, and skin inflammation was induced by topical application of SLS or MC903. Unmodified, enzyme hydrolyzed, or acid hydrolyzed gluten products were applied to the skin three times per week for 5 weeks. Subsequently, rats were orally gavaged with unmodified gluten.

RESULTS

Wheat-naïve rats were readily sensitized to gluten hydrolysates via the skin. Skin barrier defect and skin inflammation had little effect on the skin sensitization and hydrolysate-specific IgE levels. Oral administration of unmodified gluten promoted the production of unmodified gluten-specific IgE in rats sensitized via the skin. Sensitization through intact skin, disrupted skin barrier, or inflamed skin was unable to break tolerance to unmodified gluten in rats on a wheat-containing diet.

CONCLUSIONS

Mechanical skin barrier disruption and skin inflammation play a limited role in experimental skin sensitization to gluten-derived hydrolysates.

Global Trends of Cosmeceutical in Nanotechnology: A Review

Nanotechnology suggests different innovative solutions to augment the worth of cosmetic products through the targeted delivery of content that manifests scientific innovation in research and development. Different nanosystems, like liposomes, niosomes, microemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanoform lipid carriers, nanoemulsions, and nanospheres, are employed in cosmetics. These nanosystems exhibit various innovative cosmetic functions, including site-specific targeting, controlled content release, more stability, improved skin penetration and enhanced entrapment efficiency of loaded compounds. Thus, cosmeceuticals are assumed as the highest-progressing fragment of the personal care industries that have progressed drastically over the years. In recent decades, cosmetic science has widened the origin of its application in different fields. Nanosystems in cosmetics are beneficial in treating different conditions like hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, dandruff, photoaging and hair damage. This review highlights the different nanosystems used in cosmetics for the targeted delivery of loaded content and commercially available formulations. Moreover, this review article has delineated different patented nanocosmetic formulation nanosystems and future aspects of nanocarriers in cosmetics.

Occurrence of Allergens in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is characterized by symptoms such as stinging and tingling in response to stimuli that usually do not cause unpleasant sensations. Epidemiological studies show that individuals with sensitive skin are more prone to developing skin allergies, although the link between both conditions is unknown. Aiming to evaluate the presence of allergens in facial-skin products for sensitive skin, a pool of 88 cosmetic products from international brands marketed in pharmacies and parapharmacies was analyzed. A list of allergens identified in product labels was compiled and grouped according to their function. Fragrances were the most common allergens, followed by skin-conditioning agents, surfactants, and preservatives. Fragrances presenting the highest use percentages were linalool, benzyl alcohol, geraniol, and citronellol. Overall, the majority of cosmetic formulations were absent of fragrance allergens, being present only in 7% of products. Other allergens were found in most products (95%). This finding should be interpreted with caution, since many of these compounds are rare sensitizers and studies demonstrating their risk for individuals with sensitive skin are lacking. With this study, useful information for health professionals is provided to support their advice and to help consumers choosing cosmetic products.

Zooceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients Derived from Animals

Many substances derived from animals are used as ingredients in the cosmetic industry and constitute a particular type of product: zooceuticals. The main ingredients used can come from insects, such as snail slime; land animals, such as lanolin; and marine animals, such as marine collagen. Today, they are used less than in the past for hygienic–sanitary, ethical, and ecological reasons. Moreover, some can give rise to irritative or allergic dermatitis. However, they still represent a fraction of the common ingredients in certain types of cosmetic products today.

Facial contact dermatitis caused by cosmetic-relevant allergens

BACKGROUND

Facial allergic contact dermatitis caused by cosmetic products is common. New allergens in cosmetics continuously emerge.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate characteristics of patients with facial dermatitis (FD) between 2010 and 2019 including patch test results from cosmetic-related allergens and a new test series with cosmetic-relevant natural ingredients (CRNIs).

METHODS

This is a retrospective study analysing demographics, clinical characteristics according to MOAHLFA index (male; occupation; atopic dermatitis; hand; leg; face; age ≥ 40 years), and patch test results to 27 cosmetic-relevant allergens in FD patients. A prospective study evaluating a screening test series with CRNIs in consecutive FD patients for 1 year was also conducted. These patients received a questionnaire for collecting extra characteristics (eg, concerning quality of life).

RESULTS

Of 8740 tested patients, 2292 (26.2%) had FD. Of these, 30.6% had cosmetic-induced FD. The most common cosmetic-related allergens were fragrances and preservatives. The most common patch test-positive CRNIs were hydroperoxides of limonene and linalool, and propolis. Potato and peanut were rare, but the most common prick test-positive CRNIs, however, without any relation to the use of cosmetic products. FD affected nearly all patients' quality of life and caused limitations to their daily life.

CONCLUSIONS

Updated management and quick diagnosis of FD is important to avoid negative impact on patients' quality of life.

The emerging role of nanotechnology in skincare

The role of cosmetic products is rapidly evolving in our society, with their use increasingly seen as an essential contribution to personal wellness. This suggests the necessity of a detailed elucidation of the use of nanoparticles (NPs) in cosmetics. The aim of the present work is to offer a critical and comprehensive review discussing the impact of exploiting nanomaterials in advanced cosmetic formulations, emphasizing the beneficial effects of their extensive use in next-generation products despite a persisting prejudice around the application of nanotechnology in cosmetics. The discussion here includes an interpretation of the data underlying generic information reported on the product labels of formulations already available in the marketplace, information that often lacks details identifying specific components of the product, especially when nanomaterials are employed. The emphasis of this review is mainly focused on skincare because it is believed to be the cosmetics market sector in which the impact of nanotechnology is being seen most significantly. To date, nanotechnology has been demonstrated to improve the performance of cosmetics in a number of different ways: 1) increasing both the entrapment efficiency and dermal penetration of the active ingredient, 2) controlling drug release, 3) enhancing physical stability, 4) improving moisturizing power, and 5) providing better UV protection. Specific attention is paid to the effect of nanoparticles contained in semisolid formulations on skin penetration issues. In light of the emerging concerns about nanoparticle toxicity, an entire section has been devoted to listing detailed examples of nanocosmetic products for which safety has been investigated.

Sustainable Processing of Floral Bio-Residues of Saffron (Crocus sativus L.) for Valuable Biorefinery Products

Tepals constitute the most abundant bio-residues of saffron (Crocus sativus L.). As they are a natural source of polyphenols with antioxidant properties, they could be processed to generate valuable biorefinery products for applications in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and food industries, becoming a new source of income while reducing bio-waste. Proper storage of by-products is important in biorefining and dehydration is widely used in the herb sector, especially for highly perishable harvested flowers. This study aimed to deepen the phytochemical composition of dried saffron tepals and to investigate whether this was influenced by the extraction technique. In particular, the conventional maceration was compared with the Ultrasound Assisted Extraction (UAE), using different solvents (water and three methanol concentrations, i.e., 20%, 50%, and 80%). Compared to the spice, the dried saffron tepals showed a lower content of total phenolics (average value 1127.94 ± 32.34 mg GAE 100 g⁻¹ DW) and anthocyanins (up to 413.30 ± 137.16 mg G3G 100 g⁻¹ DW), but a higher antioxidant activity, which was measured through the FRAP, ABTS, and DPPH assays. The HPLC-DAD analysis detected some phenolic compounds (i.e., ferulic acid, isoquercitrin, and quercitrin) not previously found in fresh saffron tepals. Vitamin C, already discovered in the spice, was interestingly detected also in dried tepals. Regarding the extraction technique, in most cases, UAE with safer solvents (i.e., water or low percentage of methanol) showed results of phenolic compounds and vitamin C similar to maceration, allowing an improvement in extractions by halving the time. Thus, this study demonstrated that saffron tepals can be dried maintaining their quality and that green extractions can be adopted to obtain high yields of valuable antioxidant phytochemicals, meeting the requirement for a sustainable biorefining.