Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin

Overview of Peptides and Their Potential Roles in Skin Health and Beauty

Peptides are molecules that consist of at least two amino acids linked by peptide bonds. The difference between peptides and proteins is primarily based on size and structure. Typically, oligopeptides consist of fewer than about 10-20 amino acids, and polypeptides consist of more than 20 amino acids, whereas proteins usually are made up more than 50 amino acids and often contain multiple peptide subunits as stated in the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry rules. Beyond the nutritional properties, peptides are also structural components of hormones, enzymes, toxins, and antibiotics and play several fundamental physiological roles in the body. Since the introduction of the first commercial peptide drug, insulin, peptide-based drugs have gained increased interest. So far, more than 80 peptide-based drugs have reached the market for a wide range of conditions, such as diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, and urological disorders. Meanwhile, peptides have also gained significant attention in the cosmetic industry because of their potential in boosting skin health. In this review, peptides were comprehensively summarized in the aspects of sources, function, the use of peptides in cosmetics and skin care, and indications for the delivery of cosmetic peptides.

Cosmeceuticals in photoaging: A review

BACKGROUND

Photoaging is a process of the architecture of normal skin damaged by ultraviolet radiation. Topical cosmeceuticals have been used to treat this condition. The authors aimed to understand the mechanism and level of evidence of different commonly used cosmeceuticals used to treat photodamaged skin.

OBJECTIVE

A range of commonly used topical cosmeceuticals (botanicals, peptides, and hydroquinone) has been used in cosmetic medicine for many years to treat photodamaged skin. This review article compares their efficacy and level of evidence.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

This study was a systematic review to evaluate the efficacy of different topical cosmeceuticals. Keywords including "Photoaging," "Azelaic acid," "Soy," "Green Tea," "Chamomile," "Ginkgo," "Tea Tree Oil," "Resveratrol," "Cucumber," "Ginseng," "Centella asiatica," "Licorice Root," "Aloe Vera," "Peptides," "Argireline," "Hydroquinone," were typed on OVID, PUBMED, MEDLINE for relevant studies published on photoaging treatment.

RESULTS

Most of the evidence behind cosmeceuticals is of high-quality ranging from Level I to Level II. In particular, the evidence base behind peptides is the strongest with most studies achieving Level Ib status in the evidence hierarchy.

CONCLUSION

Topical cosmeceuticals like botanicals, peptides and hydroquinone can effectively treat photodamaged skin.

Fermented tea leave extract against oxidative stress and ageing of skin in vitro and in vivo

OBJECTIVE

The objective is to develop a natural and stable anti-oxidative stress and anti-ageing ingredient. In this study, we evaluated the changes in white tea leaves fermented with Eurotium cristatum PLT-PE and Saccharomyces boulardii PLT-HZ and their efficacy against skin oxidative stress.

METHODS

We employed untargeted metabolomics technology to analyse the differential metabolites between tea extract (TE) and fermented tea extract (FTE). In vitro, using H2O2-induced HaCaT cells, we evaluated cell vitality, ROS, and inflammatory factors (TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6). Additionally, we verified the effects on the extracellular matrix and nuclear DNA using fibroblasts or reconstructed skin models. We measured skin hydration, elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio in volunteers after using an emulsion containing 3% FTE for 28 and 56 days.

RESULTS

Targeted metabolomics analysis of white tea leaves yielded more than 20 differential metabolites with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, including amino acids, polypeptides, quercetin, and liquiritin post-fermentation. FTE, compared to TE, can significantly reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) and protect against oxidative stress-induced skin damage in H2O2-induced HaCaT cells. FTE can inhibit H2O2-induced collagen degradation by suppressing the MAPK/c-Jun signalling pathway and can also mitigate the reactive oxygen species damage to nuclear DNA. Clinical studies showed that the volunteers' stratum corneum water content, skin elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio significantly improved from the baseline after 28 and 56 days of FTE use.

CONCLUSION

This study contributes to the growing body of literature supporting the protective effects against skin oxidative stress and ageing from fermented plant extracts. Moreover, our findings might inspire multidisciplinary efforts to investigate new fermentation techniques that could produce even more potent anti-ageing solutions.

Anti-aging activity of Syn-Ake peptide by in silico approaches and in vitro tests

The increase in the aging population worldwide has led scientists to turn to research to prevent the aging process. In this context, synthetic peptides emerge as candidate molecules for developing new anti-aging products. This study aims to investigate the possible interactions of Syn-Ake, a synthetic peptide, with matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and Sirtuin 1 (SIRT1), which are the targets of anti-aging activities with in silico approaches, and to determine the antioxidant activity, and safety profile of the peptide by in vitro methods such as cytotoxicity (MTT) and genotoxicity (Ames) tests. The molecular docking study showed that the docking score energy of MMP receptors was in the order of MMP-13 < MMP-8 < MMP-1. Syn-Ake peptide provided the lowest and the most stable binding to the SIRT1 receptor at -9.32 kcal/mol. Binding interaction and protein-ligand stability of Syn-Ake with MMPs and SIRT1 in a dynamic system were predicted by 50 ns molecular dynamic (MD) simulation studies. The MD results showed that the Syn-Ake peptide remained stable in the active site of MMP-13 and SIRT1 receptors during 50 ns simulations. In addition, the antioxidant activity of Syn-Ake was investigated using diphenyl-2-picril-hydrazine (DPPH) method since it is crucial to remove free radicals that are effective in skin aging. The results revealed the concentration-dependent increased DPPH radical scavenging activity of the peptide. Finally, the safety of the Syn-Ake was investigated, and the safe dose of the peptide was determined. In conclusion, in silico and in vitro analyses show that the Syn-Ake peptide may hold promise in anti-aging formulations with its high efficacy and safety profile.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

Comprehensive evaluation of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-component anti-aging topical eye cream

BACKGROUND

The delicate periorbital region is susceptible to skin dehydration, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity. Thus, targeted and effective anti-aging interventions are necessary for the periorbital area.

AIM

To evaluate the efficacy and safety of a new anti-aging eye cream formulated with the active complex (Yeast/rice fermentation filtrate, N-acetylneuraminic acid, palmityl tripeptide-1, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7).

METHODS

The cell viability and expressions of key extracellular matrix (ECM) components of the active complex were evaluated using a human skin fibroblast model. In the 12-week clinical trial, skin hydration, elasticity, facial photographs, and collagen density following eye cream application were assessed using Corneometer, Cutometer, VISIA, and ultrasound device, respectively. Dermatologists and participants evaluated clinical efficacy and safety at baseline, and after 4, 8, and 12 weeks.

RESULTS

PCR and immunofluorescent analyses revealed that the active complex significantly stimulated fibroblast proliferation (p < 0.05) and markedly promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Clinical findings exhibited a substantial enhancement in skin hydration (28.12%), elasticity (18.81%), and collagen production (54.99%) following 12 weeks of eye cream application. Dermatological evaluations and participants' assessments reported a significant improvement in skin moisture, roughness, elasticity, as well as fine lines and wrinkles by week 8.

CONCLUSION

The new anti-aging eye cream, enriched with the active complex, demonstrates comprehensive rejuvenating effects, effectively addressing aging concerns in the periorbital area, coupled with a high safety profile.

A review of the efficacy of popular eye cream ingredients

Background

Due to the periorbital region's high susceptibility to damage from external factors, along with its tendency to demonstrate early signs of aging, periorbital skin is a common target for antiaging therapy.

Objective

This review aims to evaluate the efficacy of active ingredients commonly found in eye creams, particularly focusing on their impact on periorbital skin concerns.

Methods

A comprehensive review of the literature on active ingredients in eye creams, including retinoids, vitamins C and E, peptides, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, caffeine, and niacinamide, was conducted. Clinical studies assessing the efficacy of these ingredients in addressing periorbital concerns were examined.

Results

Studies demonstrate the potential of these ingredients to improve various aspects of periorbital skin, including hydration, elasticity, collagen synthesis, and reduction of inflammatory mediators. Ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, and caffeine show promise in addressing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, while peptides and hyaluronic acid aid in collagen production and hydration. Niacinamide and ceramides offer benefits in reducing wrinkles and enhancing the skin barrier function.

Limitations

The lack of clinical trials specifically targeting eye cream formulations and periorbital skin is a notable limitation. Furthermore, the variability in study designs, sample sizes, and concentrations of active ingredients across studies complicates direct comparisons.

Conclusion

The reviewed studies highlight the potential of active ingredients in eye creams to address various periorbital concerns. Further research, particularly large-scale clinical trials focusing on eye cream formulations and their efficacy on periorbital skin, is warranted to establish their significance and comparability with other dermatologic products.

Microemulsions and Nanoemulsions for Topical Delivery of Tripeptide-3: From Design of Experiment to Anti-Sebum Efficacy on Facial Skin

The targeted delivery of a hydrophilic Tripeptide-3 to the skin using microemulsions or nanoemulsions for facial oil reduction was the focus of this study. The impact factors affecting oil/water transparent dispersion formation, such as the surfactant system, HLB value, and co-solvent, were identified through the water titration method and pseudoternary phase diagram plots. The interfacial tension between caprylic/capric triglyceride (CCT oil) and water was significantly reduced by the surfactant/co-surfactant combination (Smix) of Cremophore® RH40 and a double-tails co-surfactant, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate, at an HLB of 13 together with a water-to-co-solvent (PG) ratio of 1:1. A two-level full factorial design of experiment (FFD-DoE) emphasized the independent variables of the HLB value, co-solvent, and CCT oil contents affecting the optimal compositions for micro- or nanoemulsion formation. The low-energy spontaneous emulsification of the optimized combination at a low Smix content (10%) yielded the translucent oil-in-water Tripeptide-3 nanoemulsions with an internal droplet size of 25.7 ± 1.20 nm, a narrow polydispersity index of 0.237 ± 0.129, and 70.6 ± 0.58% transmittance. The in vitro skin permeation study revealed a significantly higher skin penetration and retention of the Tripeptide-3 nanoemulsions compared to the high surfactant microemulsions and coarse emulsions. Skin irritation and oil control efficacy were evaluated in healthy volunteers before and after product application for 28 days. The obtained nanoemulsions not only decreased sebum production but also enhanced skin moisture levels. In conclusion, the meticulously designed nanoemulsions, incorporating suitable excipients, show a promising delivery system for hydrophilic peptides to control sebum overproduction in oily facial skin.

Research Progress on Bioactive Factors against Skin Aging

The relentless pursuit of effective strategies against skin aging has led to significant interest in the role of bioactive factors, particularly secondary metabolites from natural sources. The purpose of this study is to meticulously explore and summarize the recent advancements in understanding and utilization of bioactive factors against skin aging, with a focus on their sources, mechanisms of action, and therapeutic potential. Skin, the largest organ of the body, directly interacts with the external environment, making it susceptible to aging influenced by factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and oxidative stress. Among various interventions, bioactive factors, including peptides, amino acids, and secondary metabolites, have shown promising anti-aging effects by modulating the biological pathways associated with skin integrity and youthfulness. This article provides a comprehensive overview of these bioactive compounds, emphasizing collagen peptides, antioxidants, and herbal extracts, and discusses their effectiveness in promoting collagen synthesis, enhancing skin barrier function, and mitigating the visible signs of aging. By presenting a synthesis of the current research, this study aims to highlight the therapeutic potential of these bioactive factors in developing innovative anti-aging skin care solutions, thereby contributing to the broader field of dermatological research and offering new perspectives for future studies. Our findings underscore the importance of the continued exploration of bioactive compounds for their potential to revolutionize anti-aging skin care and improve skin health and aesthetics.

Antioxidant peptides, the guardian of life from oxidative stress

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are produced during oxidative metabolism in aerobic organisms. Under normal conditions, ROS production and elimination are in a relatively balanced state. However, under internal or external environmental stress, such as high glucose levels or UV radiation, ROS production can increase significantly, leading to oxidative stress. Excess ROS production not only damages biomolecules but is also closely associated with the pathogenesis of many diseases, such as skin photoaging, diabetes, and cancer. Antioxidant peptides (AOPs) are naturally occurring or artificially designed peptides that can reduce the levels of ROS and other pro-oxidants, thus showing great potential in the treatment of oxidative stress-related diseases. In this review, we discussed ROS production and its role in inducing oxidative stress-related diseases in humans. Additionally, we discussed the sources, mechanism of action, and evaluation methods of AOPs and provided directions for future studies on AOPs.

The Benefits of a Multimechanistic Antiaging Skin Technology

INTRODUCTION

Facial aging is a multifactorial phenomenon due to poor skin hydration, deficient intercellular communication, collagen/elastin breakdown, and oxidative stress. The objective of this study was to assess the efficacy of a multimechanistic antiaging prototype formulation on the appearance of photoaged facial skin after 24 weeks of twice daily use.

METHODS

Fifty female subjects 35-65 years of age of all Fitzpatrick skin types with mild to moderate facial photoaging concerns (fine lines, wrinkles, sagging skin, tone and texture) were enrolled in this monadic study. Investigator and subject tolerability assessments were performed along with facial noninvasive corneometry hydration and elasticity measurements. The dermatologist investigator assessed fine lines, wrinkles, skin evenness, radiance, plumping, texture/smoothness, sagging/firming/lifting, and global appearance on a 5-point ordinal scale.

RESULTS

Forty-seven of the 50 subjects completed the study with a 19% increase in skin firmness and a 35% increase in skin hydration via bio-instrumentation readings after 24 weeks of study product use. The investigator assessed a 40% improvement in lines, a 23% improvement in wrinkles, a 42% improvement in evenness, a 64% improvement in radiance, a 58% improvement in plumping, a 65% improvement in texture, a 60% improvement in firmness, and a 45% improvement in overall appearance at 24 weeks.

CONCLUSION

The serum combination of humectants, peptides, and antioxidants yielded excellent tolerability with visual and mechanistic skin improvement beginning at 1 week with cumulative continuing improvement through 24 weeks of use in terms of hydration, firmness, texture, radiance, and fine lines.

Role of peptide-cell surface interactions in cosmetic peptide application

Cosmetic peptides have gained popularity in a wide range of skincare products due to their good biocompatibility, effective anti-oxidative properties, and anti-aging effects. However, low binding between peptides and the cell surface limits the efficacy of functional peptides. In this study, we designed two novel targeting peptide motifs to enhance the interaction between cosmetic peptides and the cell surface, thereby improving their performance for skin health. To achieve this, we optimized the well-known peptide tripeptide-1 (GHK) by separately grafting the integrin αvβ3-binding motif RGD and the chondroitin sulfate (CS)-binding motif sOtx2 onto it, forming two chimeric targeting peptides, RGD-GHK and sOtx2-GHK. Comparative analysis showed that both RGD-GHK and sOtx2-GHK exhibited superior anti-oxidative and anti-apoptotic effects compared to the non-targeting peptide, GHK. Furthermore, RGD-GHK demonstrated exceptional anti-aging activity, and its potential for promoting wound healing and repairing the skin barrier was evaluated in vitro using cells and skin models. In vitro permeation and in vivo adsorption testing confirmed that RGD-GHK achieved a high local concentration in the skin layer, initiating peptide effects and facilitating in vivo wound healing, while maintaining excellent biocompatibility. The enhancement of signaling cosmetic peptides can be attributed to the specific interaction between the binding motif and cell surface components. Consequently, this targeting peptide holds promising potential as a novel functional peptide for application in cosmetics.

Antiaging Effects of Topical Defensins

Topical defensins have recently gained attention as agents to improve skin composition. This study aimed to aggregate and synthesize studies in the literature assessing the effects of topical defensins on skin composition in the context of its ability to combat signs of aging.

Inorganic nanoparticles in dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic products: Properties, formulation development, toxicity, and regulatory issues

The use of nanotechnology strategies is a current hot topic, and research in this field has been growing significantly in the cosmetics industry. Inorganic nanoparticles stand out in this context for their distinctive physicochemical properties, leading in particular to an increased refractive index and absorption capacity giving them a broad potential for cutaneous applications and making them of special interest in research for dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This performance is responsible for its heavy inclusion in the manufacture of skin health products such as sunscreens, lotions, beauty creams, skin ointments, makeup, and others. In particular, their suitable bandgap energy characteristics allow them to be used as photocatalytic semiconductors. They provide excellent UV absorption, commonly known as UV filters, and are responsible for their wide worldwide use in sunscreen formulations without the undesirable white residue after consumer application. In addition, cosmetics based on inorganic nanoparticles have several additional characteristics relevant to formulation development, such as being less expensive compared to other nanomaterials, having greater stability, and ensuring less irritation, itching, and propensity for skin allergies. This review will address in detail the main inorganic nanoparticles used in dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic products, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide, silver, gold, copper, and aluminum nanoparticles, nanocrystals, and quantum dots, reporting their physicochemical characteristics, but also their additional intrinsic properties that contribute to their use in this type of formulations. Safety issues regarding inorganic nanoparticles, based on toxicity studies, both to humans and the environment, as well as regulatory affairs associated with their use in dermopharmaceuticals and cosmetics, will be addressed.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

Polydioxanone Bioactive Sutures-Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline): An Intelligent System for Controlled Release in Facial Harmonization

Introduction

We propose a new facial lifting protocol using polydioxanone (PDO) threads embedded in acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline [Arg]). We assume that Arg reinforces the effects of PDO threads, as it is a mimetic of botulinum toxin. Because the PDO suture is hydrolyzable, this assumption is analyzed by instrumental analysis.

Objective

To demonstrate the capacity of the PDO suture as a system for the controlled release of acetyl hexapeptide-8 to apply in deep wrinkles of the upper third.

Materials and Methods

Three segments of 1-cm long 21G PDO threads immersed in 1 mL of Arg. PDO threads were observed under an optical, electron microscope at 24, 48, and 72 h later. They were also weighed before and after being soaked in Arg, and employing ultraviolet (UV)-visible spectroscopy, the release rate of Arg from the PDO suture was measured. Finally, was insert the thread PDO-Arg following a protocol designed especially for deep static wrinkles in the upper third.

Results

The electronic weighing revealed that the PDO thread enjoys capillarity by the peptide, doubling its weight every 24 h. UV spectra revealed that PDO thread is a well-controlled release system for Arg, allowing its sustained release for 1 h. Optical and electronic photomicrographs confirm the swelling of the PDO thread by absorbing Arg by its capillarity, but this hydrophilicity does not lead to its premature physical degradation.

Conclusions

The PDO thread system with Arg is an intelligent bioactive system useful in facial harmonization. It recommend conduct clinical trial to verify his superior lifting effect.

Auricularia auricula Peptides Nutritional Supplementation Delays H2O2-Induced Senescence of HepG2 Cells by Modulation of MAPK/NF-κB Signaling Pathways

Auricularia auricula is a traditional medicinal and edible mushroom with anti-aging effects. Many studies focused on polysaccharides and melanin. However, the anti-aging effects and mechanism of the nutritional supplementation of Auricularia auricula peptides (AAPs) were not elucidated. In this study, AAPs were prepared by enzymolysis of flavor protease and the protective effects on H2O2-induced senescence of HepG2 cells were explored for the first time. The potential mechanism was also investigated. AAPs were mostly composed of low molecular weights with less than 1000 Da accounting for about 79.17%, and contained comprehensive amino acids nutritionally, including seven essential amino acids, aromatic, acidic, and basic amino acids. AAPs nutritional supplementation could significantly decrease the levels of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and malondialdehyde (MDA), and increase the activities of antioxidant enzymes (SOD, CAT, and GSH-Px). In addition, the senescence-associated-β-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) activity was restrained, and the expression levels of senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) (IL-6, IL-8, IL-1β, and CXCL2) were also decreased. Ribonucleic acid sequencing (RNA-Seq) was carried out to screen the differentially expressed genes (DEGs) between different groups. GO and KEGG enrichment analysis showed that the mechanism was related to the MAPK/NF-κB signaling pathways. Quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR) analysis and Western blot were carried out to verify the key genes and proteins in the pathways, respectively. AAPs nutritional supplementation resulted a significant down-regulation in key the genes c-fos and c-jun and up-regulation in DUSP1 of the MAPK signaling pathway, and down-regulation in the key genes CXCL2 and IL-8 of the NF-κB signaling pathway. The results of Western blot demonstrate that AAPs nutritional supplementation could inhibit MAPK/NF-κB pathways by reducing the expression levels of IKK, IκB, P65, and phosphorylation of ERK, thus decreasing the inflammatory reaction and delaying cell senescence. It is the first time that AAPs nutritional supplementation was proved to have protective effects on H2O2-induced oxidative damage in HepG2 cells. These results implicate that dietary AAPs could be used as nutrients to reduce the development or severity of aging.

Current Insights into the Formulation and Delivery of Therapeutic and Cosmeceutical Agents for Aging Skin

“Successful aging” counters the traditional idea of aging as a disease and is increasingly equated with minimizing age signs on the skin, face, and body. From this stems the interest in preventative aesthetic dermatology that might help with the healthy aging of skin, help treat or prevent certain cutaneous disorders, such as skin cancer, and help delay skin aging by combining local and systemic methods of therapy, instrumental devices, and invasive procedures. This review will discuss the main mechanisms of skin aging and the potential mechanisms of action for commercial products already on the market, highlighting the issues related to the permeation of the skin from different classes of compounds, the site of action, and the techniques employed to overcome aging. The purpose is to give an overall perspective on the main challenges in formulation development, especially nanoparticle formulations, which aims to defeat or slow down skin aging, and to highlight new market segments, such as matrikines and matrikine-like peptides. In conclusion, by applying enabling technologies such as those delivery systems outlined here, existing agents can be repurposed or fine-tuned, and traditional but unproven treatments can be optimized for efficacious dosing and safety.

Spent Yeast Waste Streams as a Sustainable Source of Bioactive Peptides for Skin Applications

Spent yeast waste streams are a byproduct obtained from fermentation process and have been shown to be a rich secondary source of bioactive compounds such as phenolic compounds and peptides. The latter are of particular interest for skin care and cosmetics as they have been shown to be safe and hypoallergenic while simultaneously being able to exert various effects upon the epidermis modulating immune response and targeting skin metabolites, such as collagen production. As the potential of spent yeast's peptides has been mainly explored for food-related applications, this work sought to understand if peptide fractions previously extracted from fermentation engineered spent yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) waste streams possess biological potential for skin-related applications. To that end, cytotoxic effects on HaCat and HDFa cells and whether they were capable of exerting a positive effect upon the production of skin metabolites relevant for skin health, such as collagen, hyaluronic acid, fibronectin and elastin, were evaluated. The results showed that the peptide fractions assayed were not cytotoxic up to the highest concentration tested (500 µg/mL) for both cell lines tested. Furthermore, all peptide fractions showed a capacity to modulate the various target metabolites production with an overall positive effect being observed for the four fractions over the six selected targets (pro-collagen IαI, hyaluronic acid, fibronectin, cytokeratin-14, elastin, and aquaporin-9). Concerning the evaluated fractions, the overall best performance (Gpep > 1 kDa) was of an average promotion of 41.25% over the six metabolites and two cell lines assessed at a concentration of 100 µg/mL. These results showed that the peptide fractions assayed in this work have potential for future applications in skin-related products at relatively low concentrations, thus providing an alternative solution for one of the fermentation industry's waste streams and creating a novel and highly valuable bioactive ingredient with encompassing activity to be applied in future skin care formulations.

Peptide-pro complex serum: Investigating effects on aged skin

BACKGROUND

Effective anti-aging treatments are an unmet consumer need.

AIM

Ex vivoand clinical tests have evaluated the efficacy of a topical facial serum containing a proprietary blend of neuropeptides, proteins, amino acids, and marine extracts on aged skin.

METHODS

In the ex vivo study the facial serum was compared to a commercially marketed face serum and to an untreated control on skin explants using microrelief, smoothness, and epidermal thickness endpoints. The 12 weeks monadic clinical study was designed for the test product to be used on the whole face. Subjects functioned as their own control; evaluating change from baseline. Skin was evaluated clinically by a Dermatologist for tolerability and for efficacy. Also part of the product assessment was skin hydration measurements, imaging, and a subject questionnaire.

RESULTS

The facial serum improved skin condition by significant reductions in skin surface area occupied by microfolds and in skin roughness. Additionally, it increased epidermal thickness as compared to the untreated control as well as the commercially marketed face serum. The facial serum provided a statistically increased skin moisturization compared to pretreatment values. Dermatological evaluation of the skin concluded that there were statistically and clinically significant improvements in skin smoothness, wrinkles severity, fine lines visibility and lifting, and tightening effects at crow's feet area, forehead, and upper lip.

CONCLUSION

A facial serum, containing a proprietary blend of neuropeptides, proteins, amino acids, and marine extracts, has been shown to improve the overall quality of aged skin in a series of ex vivo and clinical tests.

Pharmaceutical based cosmetic serums

The growth and demand for cosmeceuticals (cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits) have been enhanced for the last few decades. Lately, the newly invented dosage form, i.e., the pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serum has been developed and widely employed in various non-invasive cosmetic procedures. Many pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums contain natural active components that claim to have a medical or drug-like effect on the skin, hair, and nails, including anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, hydrating, moisturizing, repairing, brightening and lightening skin, anti-hair fall, anti-fungal, and nail growth effect, etc. In comparison with other pharmaceutical-related cosmetic products (creams, gels, foams, and lotions, etc.), pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums produce more rapid and incredible effects on the skin. This chapter provides detailed knowledge about the different marketed pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums and their several types such as facial serums, hair serums, nail serums, under the eye serum, lip serum, hand, and foot serum, respectively. Moreover, some valuable procedures have also been discussed which provide prolong effects with desired results in the minimum duration of time after the few sessions of the serum treatment.

A Practical Peptide Synthesis Workflow Using Amino-Li-Resin

Herein we report a practical approach for peptide synthesis using second-generation fibrous polyacrylamide resin (Li-resin, “Li” is coming from the name of its inventor, Yongfu Li). This resin with the corresponding handle was used for solid phase peptide synthesis (SPPS) using a fluorenylmethoxycarbonyl (Fmoc) approach. We reveal that the most appropriate mixing and filtration strategy when using amino-Li-resin in SPPS is via shaking and gravity filtration, instead of mechanical stirring and suction filtration used with other resins. The strategy was demonstrated with the SPPS of H-Tyr-Ile-Ile-Phe-Leu-NH₂, which contains the difficult sequence Ile-Ile. The peptide was obtained with excellent purity and yield. We are confident that this strategy will be rapidly implemented by other peptide laboratories.

Topical formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in ampoules improves skin aging signs: Results of a large, international, observational study

INTRODUCTION

Peptide-C ampoules (PC) contain peptides, 10% of vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralizing water.

AIMS

To assess the effectiveness and tolerability of PC.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

An observational study conducted in 9 countries in women ≥30 years old with signs of facial skin aging (grade >0 for forehead and/or crow's feet wrinkles and bothered by skin quality). Investigator assessments and subject questionnaires were performed at initial visit and Day 30 after application of PC twice daily for 28 days. Tolerance was assessed throughout the study.

RESULTS

Effectiveness and safety were analyzed in 1382 and 1742 subjects, respectively. Most subjects (mean age 48.5 ± 8.6 years) had skin phototype II or III (91.7%) and dry or combination skin (63.9%). PC was used as a standalone care or prior to a planned procedure (70%), or after a procedure (30%). Between baseline and Day 30, 63% and 64% of all subjects (N = 1360) had an improvement in forehead wrinkles and crow's feet wrinkles, respectively. Skin hydration improved in 67.3% of subjects. According to investigator and subject assessments, skin quality, skin radiance, skin aging signs, wrinkles, complexion, and skin pores significantly improved by Day 30. Similar results were observed for subgroup analyses when PC was used as standalone skin care or after a procedure. Tolerance of PC was rated as good to very good by 97.7% of subjects.

CONCLUSIONS

Peptide-C ampoules is effective in reducing visible signs of skin aging, and well tolerated, when used alone or as an adjunct to anti-aging procedures.

High global antioxidant protection and stimulation of the collagen synthesis of new anti-aging product containing an optimized active mix

OBJECTIVE

To assess the in vitro efficacy on antioxidant potential, protection against global oxidative stress, and effect on collagen neosynthesis of minimalist formula (Peptide-C ampoules product) containing 10% natural vitamin C, rice and lupin bio-peptides, hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (active mix).

METHODS

In-tube quantitative tests ("in-tube screening") assessed global antioxidant properties, anti-lipid peroxidation, anti-protein glycosylation, and metalloproteinase inhibition (anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activity) properties of the formula. Protection against oxidative stress was evaluated on human keratinocyte monolayer cultures, and collagen neosynthesis was quantified on fibroblast monolayer cultures treated with supernatants from product-treated reconstructed human epidermis.

RESULTS

Product (5% concentration) showed high antioxidant ability (blocking 99.0% oxidation), protection against oxidative stress damage (51.8% lipid peroxidation and 37.8% protein glycosylation decreases), and inhibition of hyaluronidase (21.9%), elastase (47.1%), and collagenase (61.8%). The protective effect was validated on human keratinocyte monolayer cultures in the presence of active mix (0.025%). Oxidative stress (ROS) was reduced by 99.0%, while global oxidative stress (RMS) induced by pollution, UVA radiation, and a combination of both factors was reduced by 48.94%, 8.7%, and 96.28%, respectively. The product increased collagen neosynthesis (11.21%) by cellular dialogue in fibroblasts incubated with product/mix-treated-RHE supernatants.

CONCLUSION

The combination of ingredients in the product showed high global antioxidant capacity, as well as a protective effect against oxidative stress induced by UVA, pollution, or both combined factors and an ability to stimulate collagen neosynthesis in in vitro studies, which support the clinical efficacy of this product.

In Vitro and Ex Vivo Mechanistic Understanding and Clinical Evidence of a Novel Anti-Wrinkle Technology in Single-Arm, Monocentric, Open-Label Observational Studies

Skin aging is a biological process leading to visible skin alterations. The mechanism of action, clinical efficacy and tolerance of a novel anti-wrinkle technology were evaluated in two skin care products formulated for different skin types. Two single-arm monocentric, open-label observational clinical studies, which were 56 days long, evaluated a cream-gel (n = 30) and a cream (n = 33) on the face and neck. Morphometric analyses of five types of wrinkles were performed at 0, 7, 28 and 56 days. Structural changes in extracellular matrix (ECM) including collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid (HA) were visualized and quantified by histochemical imaging after daily treatment of skin explants for 6 days. Protein and gene expression related to barrier and hydration were analyzed using ELISA and qRT-PCR, respectively, in a reconstituted human skin model treated daily for 48 h. A decrease in wrinkle dimensions was found in the majority of parameters after 28 days of treatment. Collagen, elastin, HA, procollagen type I, hyaluronan synthases, HAS2 and HAS3 were all stimulated. Based on significant and consistent changes in our investigations, we conclude that the underlying mechanism of action of the novel anti-wrinkle technology could be the remodeling of dermal ECM, and both the test formulations were efficacious and well tolerated.

Spent brewer's yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) as a potential source of bioactive peptides: An overview

Bioactive peptides become popular in several economic sectors over the years as they have demonstrated important biological benefits in digestive, immune, cardiovascular, and nervous human systems. Although many commercial peptides are chemically synthesized, they can also be obtained from natural protein sources such as spent brewer's yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae). The recovery of this fermentation by-product for production of functional ingredients is an important step in the increasingly demand to implement and promote a circular economy-based industry. Bioactive peptides can be found in protein-rich extracts produced from S. cerevisiae, and several studies have described their positive impact of human body. In this line, the present review highlights and discuss the reported biological properties of S. cerevisiae bioactive peptides in terms of antihypertensive, antioxidant and antimicrobial effects, although other bioactivities are also described. Concerning the growing interest in yeast protein-rich products by agri-food and cosmetic sectors, some of the products currently on the market are also pointed out and their potential source is discussed.

Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance

The skin offers various benefits and potential for peptide delivery if its barrier performance can be reduced temporarily and reversibly. Since peptides possess high molecular weight, hydrophilic nature (in most cases), and ionizable groups in the structure, their skin delivery is highly challenging. Apart from this, they are susceptible to the proteolytic enzymes in the skin. Anti-wrinkle peptides, like other peptides, suffer from insufficient skin permeability, while most of them must penetrate deep in the skin to present their efficacy. Although the cellular studies indicate the effectiveness of such peptides, without the ability to permeate the skin sufficiently, this efficacy is useless. Poor skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides has led to ongoing research for finding feasible and noninvasive enhancement methods that would be desirable for consumers of cosmetic products. In this paper, the possibility of skin permeation of anti-wrinkle peptides as well as the chemical, physical, and encapsulation approaches that have been employed to date to increase permeability of these difficult molecules are thoroughly reviewed.

Holistic approach to visualize and quantify collagen organization at macro, micro, and nano‐scale

BACKGROUND

There is scarcity of imaging and image processing techniques for accurate discrimination and quantitation of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM), primarily collagen. The aim of this study was to develop and demonstrate a holistic imaging and image processing approach to visualize and quantify collagen remodeling at the macro-, micro- and nano-scale using histochemical imaging, Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM), and Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM), respectively.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

For proof-of-concept, a commercial anti-aging product known to induce collagen neo-synthesis and re-organization was tested ex vivo on human skin biopsies from two aged females.

RESULTS

Relative to untreated skin, collagen fibers (RCM) and fibrils (AFM) were longer and aligned after treatment. The content of collagen and elastin (histochemical imaging and ELISA) statistically improved after treatment.

CONCLUSION

Based on our findings, we can conclude: (1) AFM, RCM, and histochemical imaging can accurately discriminate collagen from other ECM components in the skin and (2) the image processing methods can enable quantitation and hence capture small improvements in collagen remodeling after treatment (commercial cosmetic product with collagen organizer technology as proof-of-concept). The reported holistic imaging approach has direct clinical implications for scientists and dermatologists to make quick, real-time, and accurate decisions in skin research and diagnostics.

Cutaneous Delivery of Cosmeceutical Peptides Enhanced by Picosecond- and Nanosecond-Domain Nd:YAG Lasers with Quick Recovery of the Skin Barrier Function: Comparison with Microsecond-Domain Ablative Lasers

Picosecond or nanosecond-domain non-ablative lasers generate faster photothermal effects and cause less injury than microsecond lasers. In this study, we investigated the enhancing effect of 1064 nm picosecond- and nanosecond-domain neodymium (Nd):yttrium–aluminum–garnet (YAG) lasers on the cutaneous delivery of cosmeceutical peptides. Microsecond-domain fractional ablative CO2 and fully ablative erbium (Er):YAG lasers were also used for comparison. In the Franz diffusion cell study, pig or mouse skin was treated with a laser before exposure to palmitoyl tripeptide (PT)-1, PT-38, and copper tripeptide (CT)-1 at a concentration of 150 μM. Psoriasiform, atopic dermatitis (AD)-like, and photoaged skins were also developed as permeation barriers. The non-ablative laser elicited the ultrastructural disruption of the stratum corneum and epidermal vacuolation. All laser modalities significantly increased the skin permeation of peptides in vitro. The non-ablative laser chiefly enhanced peptide delivery to the receptor compartment, whereas the ablative laser mainly increased the intracutaneous peptide deposition. The picosecond- and nanosecond-domain Nd:YAG lasers elevated the amount of PT-1 in the receptor up to 40- and 22-fold compared with untreated skin, respectively. Laser treatment promoted peptide delivery in barrier-deficient and inflamed skins, although this enhancement effect was less than that observed in healthy skin. Fluorescence microscopy indicated the capability of the non-ablative laser to deliver peptides to deeper skin strata. The ablative laser confined the peptide distribution in the epidermis. Confocal microscopy showed that peptides penetrated the skin along the microdots created by the fractional Nd:YAG and CO2 lasers. The skin barrier function determined by transepidermal water loss suggested quick recovery when using a nanosecond-domain laser (within 4 h). A longer period was needed for the skin treated with the fully ablative Er:YAG laser (76–84 h). Nanosecond non-ablative laser-facilitated peptide delivery may become an efficient and safe approach for cosmeceutical applications.

Quantitation of Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 in Cosmetics by Hydrophilic Interaction Liquid Chromatography Coupled to Photo Diode Array Detection

Bioactive peptides are gaining more and more popularity in the research and development of cosmetic products with anti-aging effect. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a hydrophilic peptide incorporated in cosmetics to reduce the under-eye wrinkles and the forehead furrows. Hydrophilic interaction liquid chromatography (HILIC) is the separation technique of choice for analyzing peptides. In this work, a rapid HILIC method coupled to photodiode array detection operated at 214 nm was developed, validated and used to determine acetyl-hexapeptide-8 in cosmetics. Chromatography was performed on a Xbridge® HILIC BEH analytical column using as mobile phase a 40 mM ammonium formate water solution (pH 6.5)-acetonitrile mixture 30:70, v/v at flow rate 0.25 mL min−1. The assay was linear over the concentration range 20 to 30 μg mL−1 for the cosmetic formulations and 0.004 to 0.007% (w/w) for the cosmetic cream. The limits of quantitation for acetyl hexapeptide-8 were 1.5 μg mL−1 and 0.002% (w/w) for the assay of cosmetic formulations and cosmetic creams, respectively. The method was applied to the analysis of cosmetic formulations and anti-wrinkle cosmetic creams.

Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is characterized by symptoms of discomfort when exposed to environmental factors. Peptides are used in cosmetics for sensitive skin and stand out as active ingredients for their ability to interact with skin cells by multiple mechanisms, high potency at low dosage and the ability to penetrate the stratum corneum. This study aimed to analyze the composition of 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands regarding usage of peptides, reviewing their synthetic pathways and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy. Peptides were found in 17% of the products analyzed, namely: acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-49, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl oligopeptide. Three out of seven peptides have a neurotransmitter-inhibiting mechanism of action, while another three are signal peptides. Only five peptides present evidence supporting their use in sensitive skin, with only one clinical study including volunteers having this condition. Noteworthy, the available data is mostly found in patents and supplier brochures, and not in randomized placebo-controlled studies. Peptides are useful active ingredients in cosmetics for sensitive skin. Knowing their efficacy and synthetic pathways provides meaningful insight for the development of new and more effective ingredients.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

Overcome the barriers of the skin: exosome therapy

Exosomes are nano-sized cargos with a lipid bilayer structure carrying diverse biomolecules including lipids, proteins, and nucleic acids. These small vesicles are secreted by most types of cells to communicate with each other. Since exosomes circulate through bodily fluids, they can transfer information not only to local cells but also to remote cells. Therefore, exosomes are considered potential biomarkers for various treatments. Recently, studies have shown the efficacy of exosomes in skin defects such as aging, atopic dermatitis, and wounds. Also, exosomes are being studied to be used as ingredients in commercialized skin treatment products. In this review, we discussed the need for exosomes in skin therapy together with the current challenges. Moreover, the functional roles of exosomes in terms of skin treatment and regeneration are overviewed. Finally, we highlighted the major limitations and the future perspective in exosome engineering.

Topical and nutricosmetic products for healthy hair and dermal antiaging using "dual-acting" (2 for 1) plant-based peptides, hormones, and cannabinoids

One of the side effects of oral antiaging retinoids is increased hair shedding. Retinoids promote the expression of TGF-β2 from fibroblasts, which stimulate collagen expression but silences keratinocytes. Since keratinocytes normally influence differentiation of dermal papilla cells at the base of the hair follicle, retinoids feasibly inhibit hair growth via the increased expression of TGF-β2, which inhibits Wnt/β-catenin signaling. Fortunately, the plant kingdom provides an array of alternatives as dual-acting nutricosmetics and topicals that work independently of TGF-β2 to confer dermal antiaging and hair health effects. These alternatives include "plant hormones" such as cytokinins and phytoestrogens. Many cytokinins are agonists of the G-coupled adenosine receptors. Partial agonism of adenosine receptors promotes collagen synthesis independently of TGF-β2 signaling. Adenosine expression is potentially also the mechanism of minoxidil in promotion of scalp hair growth. Because of crosstalk between adenosine and cannabinoid receptors it makes sense to try combinations of specific CB2 agonists and cytokinins (or phytoestrogens). However, dual-acting cosmetics including peptides with high numbers of positively charged amino acids, such as lysine or arginine, offer real potential as they can be processed from multiple botanical candidates, including almond, fenugreek, pea sprouts, soy, and seaweeds. The current review summarizes much of what is known about retinoid alternatives in the plant kingdom and identifies potentially fruitful new areas of research.

Collagen Hydrolysate Prepared from Chicken By-Product as a Functional Polymer in Cosmetic Formulation

Chicken stomachs can be processed into collagen hydrolysate usable in cosmetic products. The aim of the study was to verify the effects of a carbopol gel formulation enriched with 1.0% (w/w) chicken hydrolysate on the properties of the skin in the periorbital area after regular application twice a day for eight weeks in volunteers ageed 50 ± 9 years. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity and skin relief were evaluated. Overall, skin hydration increased by 11.82% and 9.45%, TEWL decreased by 25.70% and 17.80% (always reported for the right and left area). Generally, there was an increase in skin elasticity, a decrease in skin roughness, as the resonance times decreased by 85%. The average reduction of wrinkles was 35.40% on the right and 41.20% on the left. For all results, it can be seen that the longer the cosmetic gel formulation is applied, the better the results. Due to the positive effect on the quality and functionality of the skin, it is possible to apply the cosmetic gel formulation in the periorbital area. The advantage of the product with chicken collagen hydrolysate is also the biocompatibility with the skin and the biodegradability of the formulation.

Sunscreens and Cosmetic Formulations Containing Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Rice Peptides for the Improvement of Skin Photoaging: A Double-blind, Randomized Placebo-controlled Clinical Study

Photoprotective formulations containing substances with antioxidant properties in combination have been used as a strategy for the improvement of photoaged skin conditions. However, there is a lack of studies evaluating the clinical efficacy of these substances in young women with signs of photoaging. Thus, the objective of the present study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of sunscreens and cosmetic formulations containing ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and rice peptides for the improvement of skin photoaging in young women. A double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled clinical efficacy study was conducted on 60 female subjects aged 20-30 years with skin changes related to photoaging and without photoprotective habits. The hydrolipidic layer conditions and structural and morphological characteristics of the skin were evaluated by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The results showed that the daily use of the formulations under study improved the skin conditions by increasing skin hydration and dermis echogenicity. In addition, the application of the active substances reduced skin hyperpigmentation and increased epidermal cell renewal. In summary, the present study showed the importance of daily application of sunscreens and formulations with antioxidant properties for the prevention and attenuation of skin changes related to photoaging in young women.

Effect of ripening time on peptide dynamics and bioactive peptide composition in Tulum cheese

Skin bag Tulum cheeses traditionally produced in the Central Taurus region of Turkey were studied to identify peptide profiles by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry over 180 d of ripening. After mass spectrometry analysis, 203 peptides were identified: 59 from α_S1-casein (CN), 11 from α_S2-CN, 129 from β-CN, and 4 from κ-CN. Numbers of α_S1- and β-CN-derived peptides increased with increasing number of ripening days due to the dependence of newly formed peptides on proteolysis. However, similar increases were not observed for α_S2- and κ-CN-derived peptides. Most identified peptides consisted of β-CN-derived peptides, followed by α_S1-, α_S2-, and κ-CN-derived peptides. Among these, bioactive peptides were found, including antihypertensive, antibacterial, antioxidant, dipeptidyl peptidase-4 inhibitory, metal chelating, skin regenerating, glucagon-like peptide-1 secretion enhancing, opioid, cathepsin B inhibitory, prolyl endopeptidase inhibitory, immunomodulatory, brain function improving, antiamnesic, antihypercholesterolemic, anti-inflammatory, and anticarcinogenic peptides.

Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial ageing: three clinical studies

OBJECTIVE

Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides (rice and lupin), hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralising water, in amber glass ampoules with no preservatives (Peptide-C ampoules).

METHODS

Dansyl chloride fluorescence labelling compared cell turnover for Peptide-C ampoules vs untreated skin in 32 female subjects. Study 2, an open clinical study, evaluated the efficacy on wrinkles of Peptide-C ampoules by investigator clinical scoring based on Dynamical Atlas visual assessment (N = 40) and subject self-assessment questionnaires (N = 47). Study 3, an open clinical study, evaluated wrinkles by instrumental quantification with 3D fringe projection analysis (N = 40) and subject questionnaires (N = 51).

RESULTS

The mean cell turnover was faster for skin treated with Peptide-C ampoules compared to untreated skin (17.1 days vs. 19.2 days; P < 0.0001). In study 2, after 28 days application of Peptide-C ampoules, clinical grading of crow's-feet wrinkles, forehead wrinkles and nasolabial folds decreased by 9%, 11% and 5%, respectively (all P < 0.05 vs baseline). Of 47 subjects, 77%, 64% and 79% indicated their skin seemed smoothed out, fine lines were less visible, and skin complexion was more radiant, respectively. In study 3, the number of wrinkles decreased by 11.5% after 29 days application of Peptide-C ampoules vs baseline (P < 0.05) and 65% of subjects responded the fine lines were less visible.

CONCLUSION

This formulation of a combination of anti-ageing ingredients in ampoules, allowing a minimalist formula, showed significant results on improving facial wrinkles and radiance.

Cosmeceuticals: The Principles and Practice of Skin Rejuvenation by Nonprescription Topical Therapy

Background

Aesthetic practice relies on a harmonious relationship between medicine and commerce. Bridging the gap is a large number of skincare products that make therapeutic claims while avoiding the regulatory framework of pharmaceuticals. In this gray area, clinicians find themselves poorly disposed to counsel patients wisely as the industry is expanding faster than empirical evidence of efficacy and safety can be acquired. To serve our patients and engage with industry, we must understand the theoretical principles and evaluate the clinical evidence in practice.

Objectives

The purpose of this paper is to classify cosmeceuticals by method of action, explain how they work in principle with reference to skin aging, and evaluate the clinical evidence for them.

Methods

A literature and cosmetic clinic website search was conducted to establish a list of the most commonly advertised cosmeceuticals, and a peer-reviewed literature search was then conducted to establish the clinical evidence for them.

Results

A huge number of cosmeceuticals are marketed for skin rejuvenation but almost invariably they fall into 1 of 4 categories. These include the induction of tissue repair mechanisms, inflammatory modulation, scavenging of reactive oxygen species, or a combination of the 3. With the exception of retinol derivatives and hydroxy acids, the clinical evidence is limited, despite promising preclinical evidence for several cosmeceuticals.

Conclusions

Cosmeceuticals reside within a highly competitive ecosystem and are often brought to market based on preclinical, not clinical evidence. Success and failure will largely be governed by the establishment of clinical evidence in retrospect.

A serum containing vitamins C & E and a matrix-repair tripeptide reduces facial signs of aging as evidenced by Primos® analysis and frequently repeated auto-perception

Background

Allegations on the benefits of incorporating vitamin C, vitamin E, and combinations thereof in topical skincare formulations are mostly based on in vitro and ex vivo experiments and/or limited protocols of specific stress conditions (pollution, UV exposure, laser irradiation,…).

Objective

To evaluate the instrumentally measurable effects and quantitative consumer perceptions of a protective and reparative serum on a panel of volunteers under normal nonstressed conditions of use, employing FOITS technology and innovative self‐assessment methods.

Method

In an open‐label study women of ≥40 years with visible signs of photoaging applied a serum comprising l‐ascorbic acid USP (15% w/v), tocopheryl acetate USP, and 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38 to the face once daily for 56 days. Skin roughness and isotropy changes were evaluated on days 0, 28, and 56, visual instrumental evaluation of skin‐tone parameters was assessed on days 0 and 56. Subjects completed self‐assessment questionnaires every third day of the trial period for radiance, homogeneity, and wrinkle appearance.

Results

Skin‐roughness parameters decreased significantly by 8%‐9% (P < .05) and subjects experienced a significant increase in skin isotropy (P < .05). Photographic analysis revealed significant improvements in skin tone, with a 9% decrease in redness and 8% increase in homogeneity (P < .0001 for both), in excellent agreement with subjects' perception of significant improvements of radiance, complexion, and wrinkles.

Conclusion

The study confirms statistically significant correlation between objectively measured and quantitative subjectively perceived benefits of the bespoke serum containing antioxidants and a matrix‐restoring peptide.

Trending Anti-Aging Peptides

The development of synthetic peptides for skin care dates to the 1980s. The cosmetic industry periodically launches new peptides, as they are promising and appealing active ingredients in the growing and innovative cosmetics market. In this study, trends in the use of peptides in anti-aging products were analyzed by comparing the composition of the products marketed in 2011 with products launched or reformulated in 2018. The scientific and marketing evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics was also compiled from products’ labels, suppliers’ technical data forms and online scientific databases. The use of peptides in anti-aging cosmetics increased by 7.2%, while the variety and the number of peptide combinations in products have increased by 88.5%. The most used peptides in antiaging cosmetic formulations are, in descending order, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8. In 2011, the majority of peptides were obtained from synthesis, while in 2018, biotechnology processing was the dominant source. This study provides an overview of the market trends regarding the use of peptides in anti-aging products, providing meaningful data for scientists involved in the development of new peptides to identify opportunities for innovation in this area.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

The anti-ageing effects of a natural peptide discovered by artificial intelligence

OBJECTIVE

As skin ages, impaired extracellular matrix (ECM) protein synthesis and increased action of degradative enzymes manifest as atrophy, wrinkling and laxity. There is mounting evidence for the functional role of exogenous peptides across many areas, including in offsetting the effects of cutaneous ageing. Here, using an artificial intelligence (AI) approach, we identified peptide RTE62G (pep_RTE62G), a naturally occurring, unmodified peptide with ECM stimulatory properties. The AI-predicted anti-ageing properties of pep_RTE62G were then validated through in vitro, ex vivo and proof of concept clinical testing.

METHODS

A deep learning approach was applied to unlock pep_RTE62G from a plant source, Pisum sativum (pea). Cell culture assays of human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and keratinocytes (HaCaTs) were subsequently used to evaluate the in vitro effect of pep_RTE62G. Distinct activities such as cell proliferation and ECM protein production properties were determined by ELISA assays. Cell migration was assessed using a wound healing assay, while ECM protein synthesis and gene expression were analysed, respectively, by immunofluorescence microscopy and PCR. Immunohistochemistry of human skin explants was employed to further investigate the induction of ECM proteins by pep_RTE62G ex vivo. Finally, the clinical effect of pep_RTE626 was evaluated in a proof of concept 28-day pilot study.

RESULTS

In vitro testing confirmed that pep_RTE62G is an effective multi-functional anti-ageing ingredient. In HaCaTs, pep_RTE62G treatment significantly increases both cellular proliferation and migration. Similarly, in HDFs, pep_RTE62G consistently induced the neosynthesis of ECM protein elastin and collagen, effects that are upheld in human skin explants. Lastly, in our proof of concept clinical study, application of pep_RTE626 over 28 days demonstrated anti-wrinkle and collagen stimulatory potential.

CONCLUSION

pep_RTE62G represents a natural, unmodified peptide with AI-predicted and experimentally validated anti-ageing properties. Our results affirm the utility of AI in the discovery of novel, functional topical ingredients.

Biotechnology Applied to Cosmetics and Aesthetic Medicines

Biotechnology uses microorganisms and/or enzymes to obtain specific products through fermentative processes and/or genetic engineering techniques. Examples of these products are active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, kojic acid, resveratrol, and some enzymes, which are used in skin anti-aging products. In addition, certain growth factors, algae, stem cells, and peptides have been included in cosmetics and aesthetic medicines. Thus, biotechnology, cosmetics and aesthetic medicines are now closely linked, through the production of high-quality active ingredients, which are more effective and safer. This work describes the most used active ingredients that are produced from biotechnological processes. Although there are a vast number of active ingredients, the number of biotechnological active ingredients reported in the literature is not significantly high.

Update in minimally invasive periorbital rejuvenation with a focus on platelet-rich plasma: A narrative review

BACKGROUND

The periorbital region is among the first areas to be affected by the process of aging, which is influenced by genetic and constitutional factors. As the region plays an important role in overall facial appearance, rejuvenation of the area has immense cosmetic benefit and various treatment modalities have been used to achieve the same.

AIMS

This article reviews commonly used non-surgical and minimally invasive modalities for periorbital rejuvenation.

METHODS

The literature research considered published journal articles (clinical trials or scientific reviews). Studies were identified by searching electronic databases (MEDLINE and PubMed) and reference lists of respective articles. Only articles available in English were considered for this review.

RESULTS

Autologous platelet rich plasma (PRP) is increasingly used in dermatology for skin and hair conditions. The use of PRP is rapidly growing in popularity as a modality to achieve skin rejuvenation. The mechanism by which PRP leads to skin rejuvenation is by increasing the dermal fibroblast proliferation, expression of matrix metalloproteinase and collagen synthesis.

CONCLUSION

The evidence discussed in this article indicates the increasing importance of minimally invasive modalities in periorbital rejuvenation and a promising role for PRP as solo therapy or in multimodality regimens.

Collagen Hydrolysates for Skin Protection: Oral Administration and Topical Formulation

Antioxidants are molecules that delay or inhibit the oxidation of other molecules. Its use significantly increased in recent years in the diet of people. Natural antioxidants are replacing the use of synthetic antioxidant ingredients due to their safety, nutritional, and therapeutic values. Hydrolyzed collagen (HC) is a popular ingredient considered to be an antioxidant. This low molecular weight protein has been widely utilized due to its excellent biocompatibility, easy biodegradability, and weak antigenicity. It is a safe cosmetic biomaterial with good moisturizing properties on the skin. The antioxidant properties of HC are conditioned to the size of the molecule: the lower the molecular weight of peptides, the greater the ability to donate an electron or hydrogen to stabilize radicals. The antioxidant capacity of HC is mostly due to the presence of hydrophobic amino acids in the peptide. The exact mechanism of peptides acting as antioxidants is not clearly known but some aromatic amino acids and histidine are reported to play an important role in the antioxidant activity. Oral ingestion of HC increases the levels of collagen-derived peptides in the blood torrent and improves the skin properties such as elasticity, skin moisture, and transepidermal water loss. Additionally, daily intakes of HC protect the skin against UV melasma, enhances the fibroblast production and extracellular matrix of the skin. HC has been identified as a safe cosmetic ingredient for topical formulations with good moisturizing properties at the stratum corneum layer of the skin. It reduces the effects of skin aging (dryness, laxity, and wrinkles). The use of HC as a principal ingredient in safe formulations for skin protection was reviewed and compared when it is used by topical and/or oral administration.

D-tyrosine adds an anti-melanogenic effect to cosmetic peptides

D-tyrosine is known to negatively regulate melanin synthesis by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Here, we further reveal that peptides containing terminal D-tyrosine can reduce the melanin contents of human melanocytes. The addition of D-tyrosine to the terminus of the commercial anti-wrinkle peptide, pentapeptide-18 endowed the peptide with the ability to reduce the melanin content and tyrosinase activity in human MNT-1 melanoma cells and primary melanocytes. Consistently, terminal D-tyrosine-containing pentapeptide-18 inhibited the melanogenesis induced by α-MSH treatment or UV irradiation of MNT-1 cells and reduced melanin synthesis in the epidermal basal layer of a 3D human skin model. Furthermore, the addition of D-tyrosine to an anti-aging peptide (GEKG) or an anti-inflammatory peptide (GHK) endowed these short peptides with anti-melanogenic effects without altering their intrinsic effects. Together, these data suggest that the addition of D-tyrosine at the terminus of a short cosmetic peptide adds an anti-melanogenic effect to its intrinsic cosmetic effect. Our work offers a novel means of generating dual-function cosmetic peptides.