Self-preserving cosmetics

Evernia prunastri lichen as a source of bioactive glucans with potential for topical applications

Microwave hydrothermal treatment was selected to extract valuable fractions with bioactive and gelling properties from Evernia prunastri lichen with potential for topical applications. The impact of the extraction processing conditions on the soluble extracts, mucilage fraction and residual solid phase was analyzed within a lichen global valorization approach. A particular stress was made on the thermo-rheological and structural characteristics of the extracted glucan and galactomannan polymers, the corresponding gelled matrices, and their cosmetic feasibility. Results revealed that the proposed microwave-assisted treatment showed a relevant influence on the phytochemical features of the aqueous soluble extracts, accounting the major protein content at 120 °C and the enhanced antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase properties at 140 °C. Extracts at 200 °C showed the highest anti-inflammatory (COX-1 and COX-2 inhibition) efficacies. The biopolymer analyses indicated that those recovered after lichen hydrothermal treatment at 160 °C featured a good extraction performance, the highest molecular weight, apparent viscosity, and antiproliferative potential. The thermo-rheological properties of the corresponding matrices formulated at 10 % and 60 or 80 °C exhibited the strongest and most thermo-reversible characteristics, as well as antifreezing feasibility. Another advantage of the selected fractions was the absence of skin irritation according to the in vitro skin irritation assay.

The influence of Leucidal - eco-preservative from radish - on model lipid membranes and selected pathogenic bacteria

In this work the effect of Leucidal - a natural preservative from radish dedicated to be used in cosmetics - on bacteria cells and model bacteria membranes was investigated. To get insight into the mechanism of action of this formulation the lipid Langmuir monolayers imitating Escherichia coli (E. coli) and Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) membranes were prepared. Then, the influence of Leucidal on model systems was investigated by means of the surface pressure/area measurements, penetration studies and Brewster Angle Microscopy (BAM) visualization. Similar experiments were done also for one component monolayers formed from the model membrane lipids. The in vitro tests were done on five different bacteria species (E. coli, Enterococcus faecalis, S. aureus, Salmonella enterica, Pseudomonas aeruginosa). Leucidal was found to decrease packing of the monolayers, however, it was excluded from the films at higher concentrations. Model membrane experiments evidenced also a stronger affinity of the components of this eco-preservative to E. coli vs S. aureus membrane. Among one component films, those formed from phosphatidylglycerols and cardiolipins were more sensitive to the presence of Leucidal. However, in vitro tests evidenced that Leucidal exerts stronger inhibitory effect against S. aureus bacteria as compared to E. coli strain. These findings were discussed from the point of view of the role of Leucidal components and the lipid membrane properties in the membrane - based mechanism of action of this preservative. The results allow one to suggest that the membrane may not be the main site of action of Leucidal on bacteria. Moreover, since high concentration of the tested preparation exerted antibacterial activity in relation to all tested bacteria, a low selectivity of Leucidal can be postulated, which may be problematic from the point of view of its effect on the skin microbiome.

Polyphenols: Natural Preservatives with Promising Applications in Food, Cosmetics and Pharma Industries; Problems and Toxicity Associated with Synthetic Preservatives; Impact of Misleading Advertisements; Recent Trends in Preservation and Legislation

The global market of food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical products requires continuous tracking of harmful ingredients and microbial contamination for the sake of the safety of both products and consumers as these products greatly dominate the consumer's health, directly or indirectly. The existence, survival, and growth of microorganisms in the product may lead to physicochemical degradation or spoilage and may infect the consumer at another end. It has become a challenge for industries to produce a product that is safe, self-stable, and has high nutritional value, as many factors such as physical, chemical, enzymatic, or microbial activities are responsible for causing spoilage to the product within the due course of time. Thus, preservatives are added to retain the virtue of the product to ensure its safety for the consumer. Nowadays, the use of synthetic/artificial preservatives has become common and has not been widely accepted by consumers as they are aware of the fact that exposure to preservatives can lead to adverse effects on health, which is a major area of concern for researchers. Naturally occurring phenolic compounds appear to be extensively used as bio-preservatives to prolong the shelf life of the finished product. Based on the convincing shreds of evidence reported in the literature, it is suggested that phenolic compounds and their derivatives have massive potential to be investigated for the development of new moieties and are proven to be promising drug molecules. The objective of this article is to provide an overview of the significant role of phenolic compounds and their derivatives in the preservation of perishable products from microbial attack due to their exclusive antioxidant and free radical scavenging properties and the problems associated with the use of synthetic preservatives in pharmaceutical products. This article also analyzes the recent trends in preservation along with technical norms that regulate the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical products in the developing countries.

The Influence of Antioxidant Plant Extracts on the Oxidation of O/W Emulsions

The demand for natural cosmetics has steadily increased in recent years. However, challenges occur especially in quality preservation regarding oxidative spoilage of natural cosmetic products, as the use of synthetic preservatives and antioxidants is limited. Therefore, it is important to find nature-based ingredients to ensure shelf life in natural cosmetic formulations. As a result, potential is seen in the use of plant-based antioxidant extracts. The aim of this work was to determine the suitability of the method combination by measuring the antioxidant activity, oxygen concentration, and volatile oxidation products via gas chromatography (hexanal) for the characterization of the influence of some plant extracts on the oxidative stability of natural cosmetic emulsions. Plant extracts of Riesling (Vitis vinifera) pomace, apple (Malus domestica) pomace, coffee (Coffea arabica) grounds, cocoa (Theobroma cacao) husk, and coffee (Coffea arabica) powder extract were incorporated in stable O/W emulsion formulations, while an emulsion without extract functioned as blank. Afterwards, the emulsions were subjected to 3-month accelerated storage tests with and without light exposure. Their oxygen uptake was investigated, and headspace gas chromatography measurements were performed to detect the fatty acid oxidation products formed during oxidative processes in the samples. The results showed that all emulsion samples under light exposure had a higher oxygen uptake and an increase in the characteristic fatty acid oxidation products compared with those stored under light exclusion. However, differences in oxygen uptake under light exposure were observed depending on the plant extract. Therefore, for O/W emulsions, the daily oxygen consumption rate correlated exponentially with the antioxidant activity, and the hexanal concentration correlated linearly with the daily oxygen consumption rate.

Applications of Essential Oils and Plant Extracts in Different Industries

Essential oils (EOs) and plant extracts are sources of beneficial chemical compounds that have potential applications in medicine, food, cosmetics, and the agriculture industry. Plant medicines were the only option for preventing and treating mankind's diseases for centuries. Therefore, plant products are fundamental sources for producing natural drugs. The extraction of the EOs is the first important step in preparing these compounds. Modern extraction methods are effective in the efficient development of these compounds. Moreover, the compounds extracted from plants have natural antimicrobial activity against many spoilage and disease-causing bacteria. Also, the use of plant compounds in cosmetics and hygiene products, in addition to their high marketability, has been helpful for many beauty problems. On the other hand, the agricultural industry has recently shifted more from conventional production systems to authenticated organic production systems, as consumers prefer products without any pesticide and herbicide residues, and certified organic products command higher prices. EOs and plant extracts can be utilized as ingredients in plant antipathogens, biopesticides, and bioherbicides for the agricultural sector. Considering the need and the importance of using EOs and plant extracts in pharmaceutical and other industries, this review paper outlines the different aspects of the applications of these compounds in various sectors.

A Review of Moisturizers; History, Preparation, Characterization and Applications

Moisturizers are one of the most widely used preparations in cosmetics and have been extensively used to soften the skin for consumers. Moisturizers work effectively in combating dry skin which may cause pain, tightness, itch, stinging, and/or tingling. The aim of this review is to evaluate published studies on the history, ingredients, preparation processes, characteristics, uses, and applications of moisturizers. Moisturizers bridge the gap between medicine and consumer goods by being used to make the skin more beautiful and healthy. In the future, in moisturizer therapy, the capacity to adapt specific agents to specific dermatological demands will be crucial. Cosmetically, moisturizers make the skin smooth by the mechanism of increasing the water content in the stratum corneum, hence exerting its most vital action, which is moisturizing action and maintaining a normal skin pH.

Skin Barrier Enhancing Alternative Preservation Strategy of O/W Emulsions by Water Activity Reduction with Natural Multifunctional Ingredients

Water activity (aw) as an important parameter for self-preservation can help to control microbial growth in cosmetic formulations. However, high amounts of water-binding substances are required to lower the aw enough to affect microbial growth. Since consequences for the skin barrier have been poorly studied so far, we investigated the effect of aw-lowering agents on both the antimicrobial properties of o/w emulsions and skin physiological parameters. A combination of selected natural humectants (Sodium lactate, Propanediol, Erythritol, Betaine and Sodium PCA) with a total concentration of 28 wt% in an o/w emulsion was able to reduce its aw from 0.980 ± 0.003 to 0.865 ± 0.005. The challenge test results of the aw-lowered emulsion showed a convincing microbial count reduction in potentially pathogenic microorganisms. The addition of as little as 0.5% of the antimicrobial multifunctionals Glyceryl Caprylate and Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract further enhanced the antimicrobial effect, resulting in adequate antimicrobial protection. Moreover, twice-daily application of the aw-lowered emulsion for a period of four weeks led to a skin barrier-enhancing effect: TEWL significantly decreased, and SC hydration significantly increased. Thus, we present an opportunity to replace conventional preservatives with a natural alternative preservation strategy that has been shown to offer benefits for the skin.

Overcoming Skin Damage from Pollution via Novel Skincare Strategies

Urban pollution is one of the main problems encountered worldwide with major impact on public health as well as the environment. Health impact of urban pollution is not limited to respiratory conditions but also encompasses major skin problems including irritation, skin ageing, and skin cancer. Toxic gases and particulate matter are the main pollutants and exhibit extensive local variability. The aforementioned pollutants are small particles that attach to the skin or penetrate into it, enhancing free radicals' production inside the inner skin layers. This urges the need to propose cosmetic products that help prevent and/or minimise pollutants' effects on the skin whether irritation, ageing and cancer. Furthermore, intrinsic and extrinsic factors contributed to skin irritation and ageing. Intrinsic factors are within skin factors and include genetic and physiological characteristics of individuals. Moreover, extrinsic factors comprise environmental factors such as humidity, temperature, and smoke. Subsequently active ingredients with antipollutant properties addressed the intrinsic and extrinsic factors by four mechanisms being: free radical neutralisation, film-forming ability, skin barrier enhancement and fortification. Such ingredients include vitamin A derivatives, vitamin C derivatives, carbohydrates, and plant-based products. Yet, very limited studies have evaluated the effectiveness of the aforementioned active ingredients against irritation or ageing and this should be considered in future work.

Skin Barrier Function in Infants: Update and Outlook

A good understanding of infant skin should provide a rationale for optimum management of the health of this integument. In this review, we discuss the skin barrier function of infants, particularly with reference to the use of diapers and baby wipes. The skin barrier of newborns continues to develop with age. Two years after birth, the barrier properties of infant skin closely resemble those of adult skin. However, several risk factors may contribute to impaired skin barrier and altered skin permeability in infants. Problems may arise from the use of diapers and baby wipes. The skin covered by a diaper is effectively an occluded environment, and thus is vulnerable to over-hydration. To date there has been no published information regarding dermal absorption of ingredients contained in baby wipes. Similarly, dermal absorption of topical ingredients in infants with underlying skin conditions has not been widely explored. Clearly, there are serious ethical concerns related to conducting skin permeation studies on infant skin. However, the increasing availability of non-invasive methods for in vivo studies is encouraging and offers new directions for studying this important patient group.

Green, rapid and simultaneous determination of 'alternative preservatives' in cosmetic formulations by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry

Some hydroxylated compounds commonly used in cosmetic formulations including short chain glycols, benzylic alcohols, and organic acids show antimicrobial activity, although they are not considered as preservatives according to the existing European legislation. These 'alternative preservatives' are not exempt of potential side-effects for cosmetics users. The aim of this work is to develop a simple and affordable analytical method useful for the simultaneous and green determination of fourteen compounds used as 'alternative preservatives' in cosmetic samples with different matrices. The proposed method allows a rapid sample preparation by simple dissolution or dispersion of the sample in ethanol using ultrasound-assisted leaching of the analytes from the cosmetic matrix. Gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS) is used for the analysis of the samples. Working conditions for the instrumental measure and the quantification of analytes were studied. The method was found to have high sensitivity and good precision (relative standard deviation below 13%) as well as low limits of detection (i.e., 0.01·10^-3-2.14·10^-3% w/w) and quantification (i.e., 0.04·10^-3-7.14·10^-3% w/w). The method was successfully applied to five commercial cosmetic samples of different composition. Recovery values near 100% were obtained. Each sample was found to contain at least three of the analytes of the study and their concentrations were determined with low standard deviations. The analytical features of the proposed method and the obtained results agree with the principles of Green Analytical Chemistry and make it a useful tool for controlling these alternative preservatives in the cosmetic industry in order to guarantee quality and safety of the products.

In vitro study to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of various multifunctional cosmetic ingredients and chlorphenesin on bacterial species at risk in the cosmetic industry

AIMS

We evaluated the activity of the preservative chlorphenesin and of four antimicrobial cosmetic multifunctional ingredients against various strains of gram-negative and gram-positive human opportunistic pathogens.

METHODS AND RESULTS

Growth kinetics, modelling growth parameters and statistical analyses enabled comparing bacterial behaviour in the presence and in the absence of the compound. Whatever compound tested (i.e. chlorphenesin, phenylpropanol, hexanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, hydroxyacetophenone) and strain origin (i.e. clinical versus industrial), the growth of 42 strains belonging to Acinetobacter spp., Burkholderia cepacia complex and Stenotrophomonas maltophilia, was totally inhibited. On the opposite all of the P. aeruginosa strains (n = 13) as well as 4 and 6 out of 10 strains of Pluralibacter gergoviae grew in the presence of chlorphenesin and ethylhexylglycerin, respectively. Some P. gergoviae and Staphylococcus hominis strains withstand hydroxyacetophenone. Within a species, the different strains show variable latency phase, growth rate (r) and carrying capacity (K). They can be similar, lower or higher than those measured in control conditions.

CONCLUSIONS

Data showed differences in the antimicrobial activity of compounds. Upon exposure, strains differed in their behaviour between and within species. Whatever species and strains, compound sensitivity could not be related to antibiotic resistance.

SIGNIFICANCE AND IMPACT OF THE STUDY

Most multifunctional ingredients showed significant antimicrobial properties against the wide panel of species and strains evaluated. This will help adjusting preservation strategies in the cosmetic industry.

Controversy around parabens: Alternative strategies for preservative use in cosmetics and personal care products

Parabens usage as preservatives in cosmetics and personal care products have been debated among scientists and consumers. Parabens are easy to production, effective and cheap, but its safety status remains controversial. Other popular cosmetics preservatives are formaldehyde, triclosan, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and sodium benzoate. Although their high antimicrobial effectiveness, they also exhibit some adverse health effects. Lately, scientists have shown that natural substances such as essential oils and plant extracts present antimicrobial potential. However, their use in cosmetic is a challenge. The present review article is a comprehensive summary of the available methods to prevent microbial contamination of cosmetics and personal care products, which can allow reducing the use of parabens in these products.

Development of Hinoline® as a natural preservative for cosmetic product using bioinspiration and Greenpharma Database

AIMS

The cosmetic industry needs new preservatives that are effective, natural, safe, cost effective, sustainable and compliant with regulatory standards. This necessity has posed challenges requiring obligations, bioinformatics and bioinspiration as driving forces.

METHODS AND RESULTS

Twenty natural extracts were selected from the Greenpharma Database with parameter filters corresponding to development constraints and antimicrobial properties. We confirmed using minimum inhibition concentration (MIC) assays that eight of the extracts have good bactericidal properties and that one has a high antifungal activity. The latter was purified hinokitiol, a bioproduct from Aomori Hiba wood. This substance provides high resistance against putrefaction; for instance, old Japanese temples were made of Aomori Hiba wood. The combination of hinokitiol with levulinic acid, another bioproduct, demonstrated complementary antimicrobial activities and synergistic effects in MIC studies and measurements according to Kull synergy index. Further, the mixture Hinoline® was tested at 2% in challenge tests and fulfilled criteria A of different standards. It also exerted complementary preservative effects with potassium sorbate and beneficial effects in unbalanced skin microbiota.

CONCLUSION

Hinoline, a new effective preservative from renewable bioresources, was developed.

SIGNIFICANCE AND IMPACT OF THE STUDY

This study accelerates the development of a preservative solution for cosmetics selected from Greenpharma Database, through bioinspiration and the identification of cost-effective investments and resources.

In Vitro and Clinical Safety Assessment of the Multiple W/O/W Emulsion Based on the Active Ingredients from Rosmarinus officinalis L., Avena sativa L. and Linum usitatissimum L

The multiple W/O/W emulsion supplemented with the extracts of Rosmarinus officinalis L., Avena sativa L. and Linum usitatissimum L. was prepared in the study, its active compounds were determined by HPLC and its safety was evaluated in vitro by the means of reconstituted human skin model EpiDerm™ for the assessment of its irritation, phototoxicity and early skin inflammation effects and by the 48 h human skin patch test for its skin irritation and allergenic potential. The microbiological challenge test of W/O/W emulsion was performed to ensure its preservation efficiency. The results showed that the W/O/W emulsion loaded with self-preserving plant-based bio-actives had no irritant potential, was not phototoxic and did not provoke skin inflammation or sensitization and thus could be used as a safe base for cosmetic products. Furthermore, our results demonstrate that the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients of natural or organic origin could be easily performed using reconstructed human skin model EpiDerm™ similar to the well-defined chemicals used in the cosmetics industry.

Integrated approaches to testing and assessment as a tool for the hazard assessment and risk characterization of cosmetic preservatives

The safety assessment of cosmetic products is based on the safety of the ingredients, which requires information on chemical structures, toxicological profiles, and exposure data. Approximately 6% of the population is sensitized to cosmetic ingredients, especially preservatives and fragrances. In this context, the aim of this study was to perform a hazard assessment and risk characterization of benzalkonium chloride (BAC), benzyl alcohol (BA), caprylyl glycol (CG), ethylhexylglycerin (EG), chlorphenesin (CP), dehydroacetic acid (DHA), sodium dehydroacetate (SDH), iodopropynyl butylcarbamate (IPBC), methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (MCI/MIT), methylisothiazolinone (MIT), phenoxyethanol (PE), potassium sorbate (PS), and sodium benzoate (SB). Considering the integrated approaches to testing and assessment (IATA) and weight of evidence (WoE) as a decision tree, based on published safety reports. The hazard assessment was composed of a toxicological matrix correlating the toxicity level, defined as low (L), moderate (M), or high (H) and local or systemic exposure, considering the endpoints of skin sensitization, skin irritation, eye irritation, phototoxicity, acute oral toxicity, carcinogenicity, mutagenicity/genotoxicity, and endocrine activity. In a risk assessment approach, most preservatives had a margin of safety (MoS) above 100, except for DHA, SDH, and EG, considering the worst-case scenario (100% dermal absorption). However, isolated data do not set up a safety assessment. It is necessary to carry out a rational risk characterization considering hazard and exposure assessment to estimate the level of risk of an adverse health outcome, based on the concentration in a product, frequency of use, type of product, route of exposure, body surface location, and target population.

Zinc(II) Complexes of Amino Acids as New Active Ingredients for Anti-Acne Dermatological Preparations

Zinc compounds have a number of beneficial properties for the skin, including antimicrobial, sebostatic and demulcent activities. The aim of the study was to develop new anti-acne preparations containing zinc–amino acid complexes as active ingredients. Firstly, the cytotoxicity of the zinc complexes was evaluated against human skin fibroblasts (1BR.3.N cell line) and human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines, and their antimicrobial activity was determined against Cutibacterium acnes. Then, zinc complexes of glycine and histidine were selected to create original gel formulations. The stability (by measuring pH, density and viscosity), microbiological purity (referring to PN-EN ISO standards) and efficacy of the preservative system (according to Ph. Eur. 10 methodology) for the preparations were evaluated. Skin tolerance was determined in a group of 25 healthy volunteers by the patch test. The preparations containing zinc(II) complexes with glycine and histidine as active substances can be topically used in the treatment of acne skin due to their high antibacterial activity against C. acnes and low cytotoxicity for the skin cells. Dermatological recipes have been appropriately composed; no irritation or allergy was observed, and the preparations showed high microbiological purity and physicochemical stability.

The application of pharmaceutical quality by design concepts to evaluate the antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of a preservative system including desferrioxamine

BACKGROUND

The purpose of the present study was to investigate the antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of a conventional preservative system containing desferrioxamine mesylate (DFO) and optimize the composition of the system through mathematical models.

METHODS

Different combinations of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), sodium metabisulfite (SM), DFO and methylparaben (MP) were prepared using factorial design of experiments. The systems were added to ascorbic acid (AA) solution and the AA content over time, at room temperature and at 40 °C was determined by volumetric assay. The systems were also evaluated for antioxidant activity by a fluorescence-based assay. Antimicrobial activity was assessed by microdilution technique and photometric detection against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans and Aspergillus brasiliensis. A multi-criteria decision approach was adopted to optimize all responses by desirability functions.

RESULTS

DFO did not extend the stability of AA over time, but displayed a better ability than EDTA to block the pro-oxidant activity of iron. DFO had a positive interaction with MP in microbial growth inhibition. The mathematical models showed adequate capacity to predict the responses. Statistical optimization aiming to meet the quality specifications of the ascorbic acid solution indicated that the presence of DFO in the composition allows to decrease the concentrations of EDTA, SM and MP.

CONCLUSION

DFO was much more effective than EDTA in preventing iron-catalyzed oxidation. In addition, DFO improved the inhibitory response of most microorganisms tested. The Quality by Design concepts aided in predicting an optimized preservative system with reduced levels of conventional antioxidants and preservatives, suggesting DFO as a candidate for multifunctional excipient.

Renewable Polysaccharides Micro/Nanostructures for Food and Cosmetic Applications

The worldwide diffusion of nanotechnologies into products nowadays has completely revolutionized human life, providing novel comfort and benefits. Their inclusion in food and cosmetic has a heavy impact over the market, allowing the development of higher value products with enhanced properties. Natural origin polymers and in particular polysaccharides represent a versatile platform of materials for the development of micro/nanostructured additives for food and cosmetic products due to their chemical versatility, biocompatibility, and abundance. Here, we review the current applications of polysaccharides-based micro/nanostructures, taking into consideration the precursors' production, isolation, and extraction methods and highlighting the advantages, possible drawbacks, and market diffusion.

Rosmarinus officinalis L. (Rosemary): An Ancient Plant with Uses in Personal Healthcare and Cosmetics

This work is a bibliographical review of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) that focuses on the application of derivatives of this plant for cosmetic products, an application which has been recognized and valued since Ancient Egyptian times. Rosemary is a plant of Mediterranean origin that has been distributed throughout different areas of the world. It has many medicinal properties, and its extracts have been used (mainly orally) in folk medicine. It belongs to the Labiatae family, which contains several genera—such as Salvia, Lavandula, and Thymus—that are commonly used in cosmetics, due to their high prevalence of antioxidant molecules. Rosemary is a perennial shrub that grows in the wild or is cultivated. It has glandular hairs that emit fragrant volatile essential oils (mainly monoterpenes) in response to drought conditions in the Mediterranean climate. It also contains diterpenes such as carnosic acid and other polyphenolic molecules. Herein, the botanical and ecological characteristics of the plant are discussed, as well as the main bioactive compounds found in its volatile essential oil and in leaf extracts. Afterward, we review the applications of rosemary in cosmetics, considering its preservative power, the kinds of products in which it is used, and its toxicological safety, as well as its current uses or future applications in topical preparations, according to recent and ongoing studies.

Bioactive (Co)oligoesters as Potential Delivery Systems of p-Anisic Acid for Cosmetic Purposes

This article reports the studies on bioactive (co)oligoesters towards their use as controlled delivery systems of p-anisic acid. The objects of the study were oligo[3-hydroxy-3-(4-methoxybenzoyloxymethyl)propionate], (p-AA-CH₂-HP)_n oligoester, and oligo[(3-hydroxy-3-(4-methoxybenzoyloxymethyl)propionate)-co-(3-hydroxybutyrate)] [(p-AA-CH₂-HP)_x-co-(HB)_y (co)oligoesters containing p-anisic acid moiety (p-AA, as the bioactive end and side groups) connected to the polymer backbone through the susceptible to hydrolysis ester bonds. A thorough insight into the hydrolysis process of the bioactive (co)oligoesters studied has allowed us to determine the release profile of p-AA as well as to identify polymer carrier degradation products. The p-AA release profiles determined on the basis of high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) measurements showed that the release of the bioactive compound from the developed (co)oligoester systems was regular and no burst effect occurred. Biological studies demonstrated that studied (homo)- and (co)oligoesters were well tolerated by HaCaT cells because none of them showed notable cytotoxicity. They promoted keratinocyte growth at moderate concentrations. Bioactive (co)oligoesters containing p-anisic acid moiety had somewhat decreased cell proliferation at the highest concentration (100 µg/mL). The important practical inference of the current study is that the (co)oligoesters developed have a relatively large load of the biologically active substance (p-AA) per polymer macromolecule, which unlocks their potential application in the cosmetic industry.

The Strategic Role of the Corporate Social Responsibility and Circular Economy in the Cosmetic Industry

In the literature, circular economy (CE) and corporate social responsibility (CSR) are increasingly interconnected concepts. Turon at al. (2016) consider CE the guidelines of conduct for designing and developing good CSR strategies. In particular, the corporate management philosophy needs to be translated into mandatory CSR reports that better frames circular economy objectives by identifying and communicating actions to achieve sustainable development goals. The purpose of this paper is to explore a number of CSR reports in order to understand if cosmetic multinationals’ (MNC) nonfinancial reporting is focused on the concept of circular economy and if CSR reports ensure an adequate level of disclosure to circular strategies. Moreover, the paper highlights the advantages that arise by converging the concepts of CSR and CE. The originality of this paper lies on providing evidence on “how” MNC are implementing a circular model. This paper contributes to our understanding on the relation between CSR and CE; it assesses the state of the art of circular strategies in MNC and proposes a consolidation of the concept of CE in terms of sustainable strategic and managerial practices communicated to the market by CSR reports. Moreover, it brings MNC to a better understanding of the ways to communicate their new circular business model. The analysis reveals a good level of attention by MNC to circularity in drafting their CSR reports that in many cases are able to describe objectives and actions that embrace multiple dimensions.

Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations

A global tendency for products considered environmentally sustainable, and ecologically obtained led the industry related to personal care formulations to fund the research and the development of personal care/cosmetics containing ingredients from natural resources. Furthermore, consumers are aware of environmental and sustainability issueans, thus not harming the environment represents a key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. In this study we review some examples of active ingredients or raw materials used in cosmetics/personal care/biomedical products that are coming from either through biotechnological systems, or as byproducts of several industries. A skin formulation containing biosynthetic actives, prepared by us and the study regarding its dermocosmetic properties are also described. The need for the standardization processes, the safety assessment tools, the improvement of the exploitation methods of these renewable sources in order the production to be ecologically and economically better are also discussed.

Dynamic mechanical analysis of novel cosmeceutical facial creams containing nano-encapsulated natural plant and fruit extracts

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic industry following the recent trends in the relative market has turned its interest in the formation of cosmeceutical products containing natural bioactive ingredients. Natural extracts may reveal undesirable sensory characteristics due to their composition. Encapsulation and nanotechnology are the most promising methods to overcome these drawbacks, opening up new perspectives for the future of cosmeceutical industry.

AIMS

The purpose of this study was the use of nano-encapsulated plant and fruit extracts to formulate cosmeceutical facial creams with acceptable rheological characteristics.

METHODS

Electrohydrodynamic process was used to encapsulate pomegranate and tea tree oil extracts and incorporate them in facial cosmetic creams. All the formulations including those without additives, were stored at three different temperatures. Subsequently, rheological oscillatory tests (frequency sweep tests) were performed using the dynamic mechanical analysis method in order to evaluate alterations in storage modulus (G'), loss modulus (G''), and complex viscosity (η*).

RESULTS

Dynamic mechanical analysis, showed that all formulations are suitable for application in cosmetic industry, while changes due to storage period or the storage temperature were negligible.

CONCLUSION

The addition of the selected extracts' nanofibers to formulate cosmeceutical facial creams, developed products with acceptable rheological characteristics that could be decisive for the cosmetics industry.

Polyphenols as natural antioxidants in cosmetics applications

BACKGROUND

Currently, there is a great interest in cosmetics prepared on natural resources bases and this may restrict the use of synthetic substances. Plants play a relevant role as a source of biologically active natural products with cosmetic and dermatological importance. According to this context, polyphenolic extracts are highlighted because they have proven antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, antimicrobial, and supporting activity in solar photoprotection.

AIMS

The purpose this study were reviewed at reporting the antioxidant activity of phenolic compounds, mainly applied to dermatological therapy, and highlighting the action mechanisms and structure-activity relationship.

METHODOLOGY

In September 2017, we performed a literature search in PubMed and Scielo for scientific researches, antioxidant studies, and systemic reviews. The search terms we used were "PHYTOCOSMETICS" AND "ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY" OR "PHENOLIC COMPOUNDS" (from 2000). As inclusion criteria were used relevant original articles, scientific research in the area of interest, and crucial reference articles. Exclusion criteria were: duplicate publications, non-relevant articles and not published in English.

RESULTS

The potential cosmetic application of phenolic compounds as natural antioxidants has been attributed to the chemical structure of these compounds, which to interfere in different phases of the oxidation mechanism.

CONCLUSION

The use of phenolic extracts emerges as a viable alternative for cosmetic application, ensuring a commitment to sustainability. However, it is of crucial importance to evaluate the toxicity risks of raw materials and finished products.

Saponins and microbial biosurfactants: Potential raw materials for the formulation of cosmetics

The cosmetic industry is currently one of the fasting growing sections of the economy in many countries. The recent tendency toward the use of cosmetics of a natural origin has driven the industry to seek alternatives to synthetic components in the formulation of products. Biosurfactants are natural compounds that have considerable potential for application in the formulation of safe, effective cosmetics as a replacement for commonly used chemical tensioactive agents. The present review provides essential information on the physicochemical and biological properties of saponins and microbial biosurfactants employed in cosmetic products, with a focus on the use of these natural compounds in shampoos, addressing the current state of research and patents involving biosurfactants for this purpose. The challenges and prospects of this cosmetic application are also discussed. © 2018 American Institute of Chemical Engineers Biotechnol. Prog., 34:1482-1493, 2018.

Cosmetics Preservation: A Review on Present Strategies

Cosmetics, like any product containing water and organic/inorganic compounds, require preservation against microbial contamination to guarantee consumer’s safety and to increase their shelf-life. The microbiological safety has as main goal of consumer protection against potentially pathogenic microorganisms, together with the product’s preservation resulting from biological and physicochemical deterioration. This is ensured by chemical, physical, or physicochemical strategies. The most common strategy is based on the application of antimicrobial agents, either by using synthetic or natural compounds, or even multifunctional ingredients. Current validation of a preservation system follow the application of good manufacturing practices (GMPs), the control of the raw material, and the verification of the preservative effect by suitable methodologies, including the challenge test. Among the preservatives described in the positive lists of regulations, there are parabens, isothiasolinone, organic acids, formaldehyde releasers, triclosan, and chlorhexidine. These chemical agents have different mechanisms of antimicrobial action, depending on their chemical structure and functional group’s reactivity. Preservatives act on several cell targets; however, they might present toxic effects to the consumer. Indeed, their use at high concentrations is more effective from the preservation viewpoint being, however, toxic for the consumer, whereas at low concentrations microbial resistance can develop.

Effect of two cosmetic compounds on the growth, biofilm formation activity, and surface properties of acneic strains of Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus

Increasing popularity of preservative-free cosmetics necessitates in-depth research, specifically as bacteria can react to local factors by important metabolic changes. In this respect, investigating the effect of cosmetic preparations on pathogenic strains of commensal species such as acneic forms of Cutibacterium acnes (former Propionibacterium acnes) and bacteria behaving both as commensals and opportunistic pathogens such as Staphylococcus aureus is of major interest. In this study, we studied the effect of commonly used cosmetics, Uriage^™ thermal water (UTW) and a rhamnose-rich polysaccharide (PS291^® ) on RT4 and RT5 acneic strains of C. acnes and a cutaneous strain of S. aureus. UTW affected the growth kinetic of acneic C. acnes essentially by increasing its generation time and reducing its biomass, whereas only the S. aureus final biomass was decreased. PS291 had more marginal effects. Both compounds showed a marked antibiofilm activity on C. acnes and S. aureus. For S. aureus that appeared essentially due to inhibition of initial adhesion. Cosmetics did not modify the metabolic activity of bacteria. Both C. acnes and S. aureus showed marked hydrophobic surface properties. UTW and PS291 had limited effect on C. acnes but increased the hydrophobic character of S. aureus. This work underlines the effect of cosmetics on cutaneous bacteria and the potential limitations of preservative-free products.

Preservative efficacy of selected antimicrobials of natural origin in a cosmetic emulsion

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the efficacy of 13 antimicrobial substances (11 substances of natural origin and two conventional preservatives as controls) at two concentrations in an o/w cosmetic emulsion.

METHODS

Cosmetic formulations were analysed for total aerobic bacterial count and total combined yeast count according to the European Pharmacopoeia 8.0. Challenge tests were performed according to the ISO 11930 standard.

RESULTS

The total aerobic bacterial count, the total combined yeast count and the total aerobic mesophilic microorganisms were below the acceptable limit for all cosmetic formulations. Challenge test criterion A was fulfilled by all antimicrobials of natural origin, except levulinic acid in the challenge test with Candida albicans, Lactobacillus ferment in the challenge test with C. albicans and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and grapefruit seed extract in the challenge test with C. albicans. Phenoxyethanol and the combination of methylparaben and propylparaben were inefficient at the minimum studied concentrations.

CONCLUSION

The results offer important comparative data on the level of preservative efficacy within the group of antimicrobials of natural origin and in reference to some typical, widely used conventional preservatives. Further research must be encouraged regarding cosmetic over-preservation. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Antimicrobial Ingredients as Preservative Booster and Components of Self-Preserving Cosmetic Products

This review reports cosmetic ingredients with antimicrobial activity including synthetic and natural (plant and microbial) origin as alternative for preservatives used in cosmetics as well described mechanism of their action.

Microbial Stability of Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Products

This review gives a brief overview about microbial contamination in pharmaceutical products. We discuss the distribution and potential sources of microorganisms in different areas, ranging from manufacturing sites, pharmacy stores, hospitals, to the post-market phase. We also discuss the factors that affect microbial contamination in popular dosage forms (e.g., tablets, sterile products, cosmetics). When these products are contaminated, the microorganisms can cause changes. The effects range from mild changes (e.g., discoloration, texture alteration) to severe effects (e.g., changes in activities, toxicity). The most common method for countering microbial contamination is the use of preservatives. We review some frequently used preservatives, and we describe the mechanisms by which microorganisms develop resistance to these preservatives. Finally, because preservatives are inherently toxic, we review the efforts of researchers to utilize water activity and other non-preservative approaches to combat microbial contamination.

New test method for the evaluation of the preservation efficacy of soaps at very alkaline pH made by saponification

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to develop a test method to evaluate the preservation efficacy for a specific product, a very high-alkaline liquid soap (pH around 10) made by a saponification process. Several manufacturers have experienced contamination issues with these high-pH soaps despite passing a classic preservative efficacy challenge test or even a multi-inoculation challenge test.

METHODS

Bacteria were isolated from contaminated soaps and were identified using 16S rRNA gene sequencing. High-alkaline-pH unpreserved soaps were tested using the Thor Personal Care internal multichallenge test method (TM206) with classical microorganisms and then with the bacterial strains isolated from various contaminated soaps (TM768). Preservatives were added to these soaps and assessed for their efficacy using the newly developed test.

RESULTS

Four different species of bacteria (Nesterenkonia lacusekhoensis, Dermacoccus sp., Halomonas sp. and Roseomonas sp.) were identified by sequencing among the contaminants of the various soaps tested. Among these, only one bacterial species, Nesterenkonia lacusekhoensis, appeared to be responsible for the specific contamination of these high-alkaline soaps. Thus, one specific wild-type strain of Nesterenkonia lacusekhoensis, named as strain 768, was used in a new multi-inoculation test (TM768). Unlike the single inoculation challenge test, the multi-inoculation test using the Nesterenkonia strain 768 was able to predict the sensitivity of a product towards this bacterium. Among the 27 different preservatives tested, 10 were able to protect the formula against contamination with this bacterium.

CONCLUSION

This study enabled the development of a test method to evaluate the efficacy of preservation using a specific bacterium, Nesterenkonia lacusekhoensis, responsible for the contamination of very alkaline soaps made by saponification and identify an appropriate preservative system.

Self-preserving personal care products

OBJECTIVE

As questions on the safety of some popular preservatives are on the rise, there is a growing interest in developing 'self-preserving' personal care products. Use of multifunctional ingredients/actives with antimicrobial properties has been explored as replacements for conventional preservatives. This study explores the use of combinations of multifunctional actives (MFA) and other cosmetic ingredients in various personal care formulations, to deliver microbiologically safe self-preserving products. Products studied in this study include face wash, gel-based leave-on skin care product and face mask.

METHODS

Minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of several cosmetic ingredients was determined to identify multifunctional actives with antimicrobial activity. Personal care formulations made with multifunctional actives and other cosmetic ingredients were studied for preservative efficacy by challenging the product with six multiple cycles of microbial challenge.

RESULTS

Formulations with combinations of multifunctional actives with antioxidant (AO) and chelators (CHL) were found to work synergistically and were highly efficacious in controlling multiple microbial challenges as observed in the preservative efficacy test (PET) studies. The effective combinations were able to withstand up to six multiple microbial challenges without product degradation. The preservative efficacy profile was similar to control formula containing preservatives.

CONCLUSION

Self-preserving personal care/cosmetic products can be developed which are as efficacious as preserved products by a prudent selection of multifunctional actives, antioxidants and chelators as a part of the formulation.

Antimicrobial films containing microparticles for the enhancement of long-term sustained release

Coated packagings with thin films containing antimicrobial agents are an alternative technology to ensure the protection of products against microbial contaminations. Indeed, they allow lowering the antimicrobial concentration in the bulk of the product while meeting the safety requirements and the growing consumer demand for low preservative concentrations. Microencapsulation is a suitable way for controlling active agent release and providing a long-term activity. This work aims at combining both technical solutions with coatings containing antimicrobial microparticles for the achievement of long-term sustained release. Polyethylene surfaces were functionalized with microparticles of poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) loaded with phenylethyl alcohol (PEA) as antimicrobial agent by the dip coating process using a polyurethane binder. The release of PEA into water from coated polyethylene surfaces and from PMMA microparticles was investigated to assess the sustained release and its mechanisms. Films with various thicknesses of 400-1000 µm containing antimicrobial microparticles demonstrated unusual long-term release longer than 3 months. The diffusion of the antimicrobial agent through PMMA was the rate limiting step of the sustained release. PEA release increased as the contact area of the protruding microparticles with the external medium increased and the thickness of the film decreased. Such antimicrobial agents encapsulated inside thin coatings are promising with regards to antimicrobial preservation of products along their full shelf-life.

Synergistic antimicrobial efficacy of mesoporous ZnO loaded with 4-(α-L-rhamnosyloxy)-benzyl isothiocyanate isolated from the Moringa oleifera seed

The antimicrobial activities of isolated compounds from seed extracts of Moringa oleifera and synergistic antimicrobial efficacy through hybridized complex of organic-inorganic composite materials were studied. The two main components of the Moringa oleifera seed were isolated and determined to be niazimicin and 4-(α-L-rhamnosyloxy)-benzyl isothiocyanate (RBI). The antimicrobial activity of the separated compounds of the Moringa oleifera seed were tested in vitro against 3 bacterial species and 2 fungal species by the paper disc diffusion assay and broth dilution methods. Both compounds showed antimicrobial activity against tested species and RBI was more effective than niazimicin. The MIC of RBI on S. aureus, E. coli, P. aeruginosa, C. albicans, and A. niger was 0.005%, 0.1%, 0.5%, 0.5%, and 0.5%, respectively, while the MIC of niazimicin on S. aureus was 0.1%. Next, we investigated the combined antimicrobial action of mesoporous ZnO and RBI by incorporating the compound within the pore of mesoporous ZnO. The MIC of mesoporous ZnO with RBI on S. aureus, E. coli, P. aeruginosa, C. albicans, and A. niger was 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.5%, 0.1%, and 0.1%, respectively. A synergistic effect of RBI with mesoporous ZnO was shown. From these results, the mesoporous ZnO could act as a reservoir for RBI and mesoporous ZnO with RBI could be used for cosmetic preservatives.

Preliminary safety assessment of C-8 xylitol monoester and xylitol phosphate esters

OBJECTIVES

Most of the cosmetic compounds with preservative properties available in the market pose some risks concerning safety, such as the possibility of causing sensitization. Due to the fact that there are few options, the proper development of new molecules with this purpose is needed. Xylitol is a natural sugar, and the antimicrobial properties of xylitol-derived compounds have already been described in the literature. C-8 xylitol monoester and xylitol phosphate esters may be useful for the development of skincare products. As an initial screen for safety of chemicals, the combination of in silico methods and in vitro testing can aid in prioritizing resources in toxicological investigations while reducing the ethical and monetary costs that are related to animal and human testing. This study was designed to evaluate the safety of C-8 xylitol monoester and xylitol phosphate esters regarding carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, skin and eye irritation/corrosion and sensitization through alternative methods.

METHODS

For the initial safety assessment, quantitative structure-activity relationship methodology was used. The prediction of the parameters carcinogenicity/mutagenicity, skin and eye irritation/corrosion and sensitization was generated from the chemical structure. The analysis also comprised physical-chemical properties, Cramer rules, threshold of toxicological concern and Michael reaction. In silico results of candidate molecules were compared to 19 compounds with preservative properties that are available in the market. Additionally, in vitro tests (Ames test for mutagenicity, cytotoxicity and phototoxicity tests and hen's egg test--chorioallantoic membrane for irritation) were performed to complement the evaluation.

RESULTS

In silico evaluation of both molecules presented no structural alerts related to eye and skin irritation, corrosion and sensitization, but some alerts for micronucleus and carcinogenicity were detected. However, by comparison, C-8 xylitol monoester, xylitol phosphate esters showed similar or better results than the compounds available in the market. Concerning experimental data, phototoxicity and mutagenicity results were negative. As expected for compounds with preservative activity, xylitol-derived substances presented positive result in cytotoxicity test. In hen's egg test, both molecules were irritants.

CONCLUSION

Our results suggested that xylitol-derived compounds appear to be suitable candidates for preservative systems in cosmetics.

Biosurfactants in cosmetics and biopharmaceuticals

Biosurfactants are surface-active biomolecules that are produced by various micro-organisms. They show unique properties i.e. lower toxicity, higher biodegradability and environmental compatibility compared to their chemical counterparts. Glycolipids and lipopeptides have prompted application in biotechnology and cosmetics due to their multi-functional profile i.e. detergency, emulsifying, foaming and skin hydrating properties. Additionally, some of them can be served as antimicrobials. In this study the current status of research and development on rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, mannosyloerythritol lipids, trehalipids, xylolipids and lipopeptides particularly their commercial application in cosmetics and biopharmaceuticals, is described.

A new protocol for evaluating the efficacy of some dispensing systems of a packaging in the microbial protection of water-based preservative-free cosmetic products

OBJECTIVE

A new protocol is described for assessing the efficacy of the dispenser of some packaging systems (PSs) of preservative-free cosmetic products in protecting both their contained formula and their delivered doses.

METHODS

Practically, aiming at mimicking contacts with a non-sterile skin or fingers, the dispensing system is put into contact with a pre-contaminated fabric by a standardized colonization of P. aeruginosa.

RESULTS

When applied to three different types of packaging, results show clear differences in both criteria between these conditioning articles, that is variable efficacies in protecting the contained product and the delivered doses, knowing that the first aspect is of paramount importance.

CONCLUSION

The proposed protocol is proved being able to discriminate between different PSs and provides information on strong and weak features of certain types dispensing technologies prone to efficiently decrease either the dose contamination or to prevent contamination in reaching the contained product. Therefore, the proposed protocol can contribute to an objective selection of a PS for protecting a cosmetic care product with a low content of preservative or preservative free.

Optimization of cosmetic preservation: water activity reduction

OBJECTIVE

Preservation of cosmetics is a prerequisite for industrialization, and among the proposed solutions, self-preserved cosmetics are of great interest. One key influencing parameter in self-preservation is water activity; its reduction can help to fight against microbial growth in cosmetic products. This work presents a study on the influence of humectants on water activity and its consequence on the preservation of cosmetic formulations.

METHODS

First, water-humectants mixtures were considered. The influence of glycol and glycerin content, glycol chemical structure, glycerin purity and formulation process on the water activity of the binary mixture was studied. Molecular modelling was performed for a better understanding of the impact of glycol chemistry. Then, the results were applied to five different cosmetic formulations to get optimized products. Challenge test on five strains was carried out in that sense.

RESULTS

We showed that the higher the humectants concentration, the lower the water activity. Glycol chemical structure also influenced water activity: propan-1,2-diol was more efficient than propan-1,3-diol, certainly because of a better stabilization in water of propan-1,2-diol as shown by DFT calculation. A drop by drop introduction of glycol in water favoured aw reduction. The best water activity loss was 6.6% and was reached on the cream formulation whose preservation was improved as evidenced by challenge test.

CONCLUSION

Fabrication process as well as humectants concentration were shown to influence water activity. The hydroxyl group positions as well as the presence of an alkyl group on the glycol carbon chain impacted water binding as suggested by DFT calculation. Reducing aw improved the preservation of a cosmetic cream, inhibiting or slowing down the growth of bacteria and fungi.

Microbial quality survey of sunscreen products in Iranian market

Background:

Microbial contamination of cosmetic products is very crucial because of their daily use and direct contact with the skin. These products are at high risk for microbial contamination from various sources such as environment, consumer's hands, body sweat and during the time of manufacturing. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the microbial quality of sunscreens products, manufactured in or imported to or formulated in local pharmacies in Iran.

Materials and Methods:

The microbial quality were determined in three different levels; the intact product (at the time of purchase) and after three and after six months of opening it. Total Aerobic Viable Count (TAVC) and the presence of coliforms, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, molds, and yeasts were studied.

Results:

At the time of purchase, 40, 73.3 and 43.3 percentage of Iranian made, imported and pharmacy formulated sunscreens were contaminated with at least one of the objectionable microorganisms, respectively. After three months of opening it, 36.6, 70 and 46.6 percentage of Iranian made, imported and pharmacy formulated sunscreens were contaminated with at least one of the objectionable microorganisms, respectively. The percentages of contaminated samples were 36.6, 70 and 50 after six months of opening for Iranian made, imported and pharmacy formulated sunscreens, respectively.

Conclusion:

Microbial contamination of these sunscreens products is a potential health risk for consumers. It seems that it is necessary to inspect and monitor the products during the manufacturing and shelf life period. It is highly recommended to control and regulate cosmetic products by health organizations to ensure the quality and safety of this kind of products.

Poly(anhydride-esters) comprised exclusively of naturally occurring antimicrobials and EDTA: antioxidant and antibacterial activities

Carvacrol, thymol, and eugenol are naturally occurring phenolic compounds known to possess antimicrobial activity against a range of bacteria, as well as antioxidant activity. Biodegradable poly(anhydride-esters) composed of an ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) backbone and antimicrobial pendant groups (i.e., carvacrol, thymol, or eugenol) were synthesized via solution polymerization. The resulting polymers were characterized to confirm their chemical composition and understand their thermal properties and molecular weight. In vitro release studies demonstrated that polymer hydrolytic degradation was complete after 16 days, resulting in the release of free antimicrobials and EDTA. Antioxidant and antibacterial assays determined that polymer release media exhibited bioactivity similar to that of free compound, demonstrating that polymer incorporation and subsequent release had no effect on activity. These polymers completely degrade into components that are biologically relevant and have the capability to promote preservation of consumer products in the food and personal care industries via antimicrobial and antioxidant pathways.

Industrial application of green chromatography - II. Separation and analysis of preservatives in skincare products using subcritical water chromatography

Several high-temperature liquid chromatography (HTLC) and subcritical water chromatography (SBWC) methods have been successfully developed in this study for separation and analysis of preservatives contained in Olay skincare creams. Efficient separation and quantitative analysis of preservatives have been achieved on four commercially available ZirChrom and Waters XBridge columns at temperatures ranging from 100 to 200°C. The quantification results obtained by both HTLC and SBWC methods developed for preservatives analysis are accurate and reproducible. A large number of replicate HTLC and SBWC runs also indicate no significant system building-up or interference for skincare cream analysis. Compared with traditional HPLC separation carried out at ambient temperature, the HTLC methods can save up to 90% methanol required in the HPLC mobile phase. However, the SBWC methods developed in this project completely eliminated the use of toxic organic solvents required in the HPLC mobile phase, thus saving a significant amount of money and making the environment greener. Although both homemade and commercial systems can accomplish SBWC separations, the SBWC methods using the commercial system for preservative analysis are recommended for industrial applications because they can be directly applied in industrial plant settings.

Essential oils and herbal extracts as antimicrobial agents in cosmetic emulsion

The cosmetic industry adapts to the needs of consumers seeking to limit the use of preservatives and develop of preservative-free or self-preserving cosmetics, where preservatives are replaced by raw materials of plant origin. The aim of study was a comparison of the antimicrobial activity of extracts (Matricaria chamomilla, Aloe vera, Calendula officinalis) and essential oils (Lavandulla officinallis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Cinnamomum zeylanicum) with methylparaben. Extracts (2.5 %), essential oils (2.5 %) and methylparaben (0.4 %) were tested against Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 27853, Escherichia coli ATCC 25922, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 29213, Candida albicans ATCC 14053. Essentials oils showed higher inhibitory activity against tested microorganism strain than extracts and methylparaben. Depending on tested microorganism strain, all tested extracts and essential oils show antimicrobial activity 0.8-1.7 and 1-3.5 times stronger than methylparaben, respectively. This shows that tested extracts and essential oils could replace use of methylparaben, at the same time giving a guarantee of microbiological purity of the cosmetic under its use and storage.