Sunscreens - what's important to know

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

Inorganic nanoparticles in dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic products: Properties, formulation development, toxicity, and regulatory issues

The use of nanotechnology strategies is a current hot topic, and research in this field has been growing significantly in the cosmetics industry. Inorganic nanoparticles stand out in this context for their distinctive physicochemical properties, leading in particular to an increased refractive index and absorption capacity giving them a broad potential for cutaneous applications and making them of special interest in research for dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This performance is responsible for its heavy inclusion in the manufacture of skin health products such as sunscreens, lotions, beauty creams, skin ointments, makeup, and others. In particular, their suitable bandgap energy characteristics allow them to be used as photocatalytic semiconductors. They provide excellent UV absorption, commonly known as UV filters, and are responsible for their wide worldwide use in sunscreen formulations without the undesirable white residue after consumer application. In addition, cosmetics based on inorganic nanoparticles have several additional characteristics relevant to formulation development, such as being less expensive compared to other nanomaterials, having greater stability, and ensuring less irritation, itching, and propensity for skin allergies. This review will address in detail the main inorganic nanoparticles used in dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic products, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide, silver, gold, copper, and aluminum nanoparticles, nanocrystals, and quantum dots, reporting their physicochemical characteristics, but also their additional intrinsic properties that contribute to their use in this type of formulations. Safety issues regarding inorganic nanoparticles, based on toxicity studies, both to humans and the environment, as well as regulatory affairs associated with their use in dermopharmaceuticals and cosmetics, will be addressed.

Biomineralization: A new tool for developing eco-sustainable Ti-doped hydroxyapatite-based hybrid UV filters

It is well known that the prolonged exposure to UV radiation from sunlight can compromise human health and is particularly damaging to the skin, leading to sunburn, photo-aging and skin cancer. Sunscreen formulations containing UV-filters present a barrier against solar UV and help to mitigate the harmful effects however, concern about their safety for both human and environmental health is still a much-debated topic. EC regulations classify UV-filters depending on their chemical nature, particle size, and mechanism of action. Furthermore, it regulates their use in cosmetic products with specific limitations in terms of concentration (organic UV filters) and particle size and surface modification to reduce their photo-activity (mineral UV filters). The regulations have prompted researchers to identify new materials that show promise for use in sunscreens. In this work, biomimetic hybrid materials composed of titanium-doped hydroxyapatite (TiHA) grown on two different organic templates, derived from animal (gelatin - from pig skin) and vegetable (alginate - from algae) sources. These novel materials were developed and characterized to obtain sustainable UV-filters as a safer alternative for both human and ecosystem health. This 'biomineralization' process yielded TiHA nanoparticles that demonstrated high UV reflectance, low photoactivity, good biocompatibility and an aggregate morphology which prevents dermal penetration. The materials are safe for topical application and for the marine environment; moreover, they can protect organic sunscreen components from photodegradation and yield long-lasting protection.

Nanogel Containing Gamma-Oryzanol-Loaded Nanostructured Lipid Carriers and TiO2/MBBT: A Synergistic Nanotechnological Approach of Potent Natural Antioxidants and Nanosized UV Filters for Skin Protection

The human skin is a recurring target of external aggressions, such as UV radiation, leading to exacerbation of the aging process and the occurrence of skin diseases, such as cancer. Hence, preventive measures should be taken to protect it against these aggressions, consequently decreasing the chance of disease development. In the present study, a topical xanthan gum nanogel containing gamma-oryzanol-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and nanosized UV filters TiO₂ and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) was developed to assess their synergistic potential in having multifunctional skin beneficial properties. The developed NLCs contained the natural-based solid lipids shea butter and beeswax, liquid lipid carrot seed oil, and the potent antioxidant gamma-oryzanol, with an optimum particle size for topical application (<150 nm), good homogeneity (PDI = 0.216), high zeta potential (-34.9 mV), suitable pH value (6), good physical stability, high encapsulation efficiency (90%), and controlled release. The final formulation, a nanogel containing the developed NLCs and the nano UV filters, showed high long-term storage stability and high photoprotection ability (SPF = 34) and resulted in no skin irritation or sensitization (rat model). Hence, the developed formulation showed good skin protection and compatibility, demonstrating promise as a new platform for the future generation of natural-based cosmeceuticals.

Screening for New Cosmeceuticals from Brown Algae Fucus vesiculosus with Antioxidant and Photo-Protecting Properties

Phlorotannins play a role in biological functions to protect the cells against UV and oxidative damage in brown algae. We hypothesized that these compounds can function as photo-protectors and antioxidants in skin care formulations. Two types of extracts (water (FV-WE) and 67% v/v ethanol (FV-EE)) from Fucus vesiculosus were obtained with a phlorotannin content between 7-14% in dry extract. Exposure to sun light during growth was included as a factor on the phlorotannin content but did not influence the phlorotannin content. However, green colored F. vesiculosus had lower total phenolic content (TPC) (FV-WE = 6.9 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 7.8 g GAE 100 g-1 dw) compared to those with a yellow/brownish color (FV-WE = 10.4-13.7 g GAE 100 g-1 dw, FV-EE = 11.2-14.0 g GAE 100 g-1 dw). UVA and UVB photo protective capabilities of the extracts through different biological effective protection factors (BEPFs) were evaluated using in vitro methods; the Mansur method for sun protection factor (SPF) and calculation of effective solar absorption radiation (%ESAR) to determine SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) of the extract and in seaweed enriched lotion. The SPF was negligible, when evaluating FV-WE in lotion (10 and 20% w/w). Moreover, %ESAR of the FV-WE showed SPF and some UVA-PF, but not enough to give sufficient SPF in lotions (10% w/w). It was concluded that the concentration of UV protecting compounds in the extracts was too low to and that further fractionation and purification of phlorotannins is needed to increase the SPF.

Environmental Fate and Toxicity of Sunscreen-Derived Inorganic Ultraviolet Filters in Aquatic Environments: A Review

An increasing number of inorganic ultraviolet filters (UVFs), such as nanosized zinc oxide (nZnO) and titanium dioxide (nTiO2), are formulated in sunscreens because of their broad UV spectrum sunlight protection and because they limit skin damage. However, sunscreen-derived inorganic UVFs are considered to be emerging contaminants; in particular, nZnO and nTiO2 UVFs have been shown to undergo absorption and bioaccumulation, release metal ions, and generate reactive oxygen species, which cause negative effects on aquatic organisms. We comprehensively reviewed the current study status of the environmental sources, occurrences, behaviors, and impacts of sunscreen-derived inorganic UVFs in aquatic environments. We find that the associated primary nanoparticle characteristics and coating materials significantly affect the environmental behavior and fate of inorganic UVFs. The consequential ecotoxicological risks and underlying mechanisms are discussed at the individual and trophic transfer levels. Due to their persistence and bioaccumulation, more attention and efforts should be redirected to investigating the sources, fate, and trophic transfer of inorganic UVFs in ecosystems.

Analysis of factors influencing skin reactions to sunscreens, skin whitening products, and deodorants: Results from a large-scale patch test dataset in China

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic products are widely used in daily life and can cause skin reactions. However, to date, few studies have investigated the prevalence and associated factors of skin reactions to different types of cosmetic products using patch test results.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the frequency and associated factors of skin reactions to sunscreens, skin whitening products, and deodorants using patch test results in China.

METHODS

This cross-sectional analysis used data collected during 2004-2017 at the Shanghai Skin Disease Hospital, China. Skin reactions were measured using patch tests following internationally standardized protocols.

RESULTS

In total, 151 280 patch tests comprising 16 477 cosmetic products conducted in 4029 healthy volunteers were analyzed. The frequencies of skin reactions to different cosmetic products were 1.07%, 1.28%, and 4.41% for sunscreens, skin whitening products, and deodorants, respectively. With increasing age, a higher frequency of reactions to sunscreens in women (p < 0.001) and a lower frequency of reactions to skin whitening products in men (p < 0.05) were observed. In addition, men were more likely to develop skin reactions to deodorants compared to women (p < 0.05). Skin reactions were more frequent in winter (p < 0.05), which was true for different types of cosmetic products.

CONCLUSIONS

The frequency of patch testing for different cosmetic products was 1.07-4.41%. The effects of age, sex, and season vary among the different types of cosmetic products. We hope that these findings can offer guidance for a healthy skincare concept.

Calcium-Based Biomineralization: A Smart Approach for the Design of Novel Multifunctional Hybrid Materials

Biomineralization consists of a complex cascade of phenomena generating hybrid nano-structured materials based on organic (e.g., polymer) and inorganic (e.g., hydroxyapatite) components. Biomineralization is a biomimetic process useful to produce highly biomimetic and biocompatible materials resembling natural hard tissues such as bones and teeth. In detail, biomimetic materials, composed of hydroxyapatite nanoparticles (HA) nucleated on an organic matrix, show extremely versatile chemical compositions and physical properties, which can be controlled to address specific challenges. Indeed, different parameters, including (i) the partial substitution of mimetic doping ions within the HA lattice, (ii) the use of different organic matrices, and (iii) the choice of cross-linking processes, can be finely tuned. In the present review, we mainly focused on calcium biomineralization. Besides regenerative medicine, these multifunctional materials have been largely exploited for other applications including 3D printable materials and in vitro three-dimensional (3D) models for cancer studies and for drug testing. Additionally, biomineralized multifunctional nano-particles can be involved in applications ranging from nanomedicine as fully bioresorbable drug delivery systems to the development of innovative and eco-sustainable UV physical filters for skin protection from solar radiations.

Titanium and Iron Oxide Nanoparticles for Cancer Therapy: Surface Chemistry and Biological Implications

Currently, cancer is among the most challenging diseases due to its ability to continuously evolve into a more complex muldimentional system, in addition to its high capability to spread to other organs and tissues. In this context, the relevance of nanobiomaterials (NBMs) for the development of new more effective and less harmful treatments is increasing. NBMs provide the possibility of combining several functionalities on a single system, expectedly in a synergic way, to better perform the treatment and cure. However, the control of properties such as colloidal stability, circulation time, pharmacokinetics, and biodistribution, assuring the concentration in specific target tissues and organs, while keeping all desired properties, tends to be dependent on subtle changes in surface chemistry. Hence, the behavior of such materials in different media/environments is of uttermost relevance and concern since it can compromise their efficiency and safety on application. Given the bright perspectives, many efforts have been focused on the development of nanomaterials fulfilling the requirements for real application. These include robust and reproducible preparation methods to avoid aggregation while preserving the interaction properties. The possible impact of nanomaterials in different forms of diagnosis and therapy has been demonstrated in the past few years, given the perspectives on how revolutionary they can be in medicine and health. Considering the high biocompatibility and suitability, this review is focused on titanium dioxide– and iron oxide–based nanoagents highlighting the current trends and main advancements in the research for cancer therapies. The effects of phenomena, such as aggregation and agglomeration, the formation of the corona layer, and how they can compromise relevant properties of nanomaterials and their potential applicability, are also addressed. In short, this review summarizes the current understanding and perspectives on such smart nanobiomaterials for diagnostics, treatment, and theranostics of diseases.

[Pediatric exposure to endocrine disruptors and carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic substances by pharmaceutical forms intended for the cutaneous route: Regulatory provisions in France, in Europe, and state of the art of scientific knowledge]

OBJECTIVES

The objective is to conduct a review of pediatric exposure to substances whose endocrine disrupting (ED), carcinogenic, mutagenic, or reprotoxic (CMR) character has been confirmed or remains controversial, through their use in pharmaceutical forms intended for the cutaneous route, as well as regulatory measures diligent at the national and European levels.

METHODS

A bibliographical search was carried out on the databases PubMed, Web of Science, Cochrane Library, supplemented by a search for recommendations from French and European authorities. References were selected following an assessment of their relevance to our topic.

RESULTS

Seventy-one references were selected. Pediatric exposure to endocrine disruptors and CMR substances remains through products formulated for their use, but also through indirect exposure to products commonly used by adults. Exposure arises both from the choice of excipients (parabens, phenoxyethanol), packaging materials (bisphenols, phthalates) and the qualitative or quantitative nature of the active ingredients (iodine, boron, pyrethroids, organic sunscreens).

CONCLUSION

The health professional must be able to develop a critical mind on such substances in order to inform and promote therapeutic adherence, guaranteeing the safety of the child's care.

Formulation of Pickering emulsions for the development of surfactant-free sunscreen creams

OBJECTIVE

Pickering emulsions are increasingly used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields, especially for topical applications, since these systems require solid particles as emulsifiers instead of surfactants which are known to cause skin irritation. The solid inorganic nanoparticles (TiO₂ and ZnO) used as UV filters in sunscreen formulations may also stabilize emulsion droplets, so that the utility of surfactants may be questioned. Surfactant-free sunscreen emulsions solely stabilized by such nanoparticles (NPs) have been studied.

METHODS

The ability of these NPs to stabilize o/w emulsions containing a 'model' oil phase, the C₁₂ -C₁₅ alkylbenzoate, has been assessed. ZnO and hydrophilic silica-coated TiO₂ NPs widely used in sunscreen products were used together with their mixtures. The emulsification efficiency, the control of droplet size and the stability of o/w Pickering emulsions solely stabilized by NPs were investigated. A ZnO/TiO₂ NPs mixture characterized by a theoretical SPF of 45 was finally used as unique emulsifiers to develop a surfactant-free sunscreen emulsion.

RESULTS

Stable Pickering emulsions containing 10 up to 60 wt% of C₁₂ -C₁₅ alkyl benzoate were formulated with 2 wt% ZnO in the aqueous phase. The droplet size was controlled by the solid NPs content with respect to oil and the emulsification process. Hydrophilic TiO₂ NPs did not allow the stabilization of emulsions. The substitution of TiO₂ for ZnO up to 60-70 wt% in a 20/80 o/w emulsion was successfully performed. Finally, a ZnO/TiO₂ NP mixture was tested as unique emulsifier system for the formulation of a sunscreen cream. Despite a lower viscosity, the obtained Pickering emulsion was stable and exhibited a photoprotective effect similar to the corresponding surfactant-based sunscreen cream with an in vitro SPF of about 45.

CONCLUSION

Surfactant-free Pickering emulsions can be stabilized by the UV-filter nanoparticles for the manufacture of sunscreen products.

Nanoparticles from the Cosmetics and Medical Industries in Legal and Environmental Aspects

This paper presents the application and role of nanomaterials, with particular emphasis on the cosmetics and medical industries. Methods of obtaining materials at the nanoscale and their characteristic structure, which determines their attractiveness and risk, especially in recent years, have been described. The subject of the work was to indicate the hazards and risks that are associated with the properties of nanomaterials; dimension, and high chemical and physical activity, thus making ways to capture and monitor them difficult. Legal and environmental aspects were taken into account, and the involvement of the European Commission in this subject and the activities carried out in a few European countries as well as in Japan, the USA and Canada were analyzed.

Sunscreens and their usefulness: have we made any progress in the last two decades?

Sunscreens have now been around for decades to mitigate the Sun's damaging ultraviolet (UV) radiation which, although essential for the existence of life, is a recognized prime carcinogen. Accordingly, have suncreams achieved their intended purposes towards protection against sunburns, skin photo-ageing and the like? Most importantly, however, have they provided the expected protection against skin cancers that current sunscreen products claim to do? In the last two decades, there have been tens, if not hundreds of studies on sunscreens with respect to skin protection against UVB (280‒320 nm)-traditionally sunscreens with rather low sun protection factors (SPF) were intended to protect against this type of radiation-and UVA (320‒400 nm) radiation; a distinction between SPF and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF) is made. Many of the studies of the last two decades have focused on protection against the more skin-penetrating UVA radiation. This non-exhaustive article reviews some of the important facets of what is currently known about sunscreens with regard (i) to the physical UV filters titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO) and the mostly photo-unstable chemical UVB/UVA filters (e.g., octinoxate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO), among others), (ii) to novel chemical sunscreen agents, (iii) to means that minimize the breakdown of chemical filters and improve their stability when exposed to UV sunlight, (iv) to SPF factors, and (v) to a short discussion on non-melanoma skin cancers and melanoma. Importantly, throughout the article we allude to the safety aspects of sunscreens and at the end ask the question: do active ingredients in sunscreen products pose a risk to human health, and what else can be done to enhance protection? Significant loss of skin protection from two well-known commercial suncreams when exposed to simulated UV sunlight. Cream I: titanium dioxide, ethylhexyl triazone, avobenzone, and octinoxate; Cream II: octyl salicylate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.

Simple, green, ultrasound-assisted preparation of novel core-shell microcapsules from octyl methoxycinnamate and oligomeric proanthocyanidins for UV-stable sunscreen

Without sunscreens, UV rays in sunlight cause skin damage, ranging from dark spots and premature aging to skin cancer. Present sunscreens, however, are readily photodegraded, producing highly reactive radicals that can damage cells. To address this problem, we have now used ultrasound to prepare core-shell microcapsules, which offer improved protection against UV light and improved UV stability. The composite microcapsules have oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs), which are amphiphilic plant-derived secondary metabolites, as the shell and octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), which is a UVB absorber, as the core. The polyphenolic flavonoid structure of OPCs improves the UV stability of OMC and thus avoids the skin damage caused by OMC photodegradation products. In the microcapsules, π-π stacking interactions between OPCs and OMC molecules enhance the ability of OMC to absorb UV radiation and extend the absorption range from the UVB region (280-320 nm) to include the UVA and UVC regions (200-400 nm). The composite microcapsules were shown to be stable on storage and to be non-irritant to human skin. The ultrasound-assisted preparation of OMC/OPCs composite microcapsules is simple, efficient and green and provides a feasible strategy for the development of novel, more effective, sunscreens.

Flavonoid-Enriched Plant-Extract-Loaded Emulsion: A Novel Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Formulation with Antioxidant Properties

The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid-enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5 °C), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 ± 0.39 μg/mL and 30.39 ± 0.39 μg/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo-plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 ± 1.92 μg/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 ± 8.70 μg/mL). The developed flavonoid-enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non-irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application.

Anti-aging and Sunscreens: Paradigm Shift in Cosmetics

Skin, being one of the vital organs and a protective barrier needs to be pampered and taken care of from early childhood. It is the most visible and the widest exposed organ and by far reflects the general health condition and the aging process in humans. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors contribute to this complex biological process of skin aging. In recent times, skin health and its beauty is perceived as an indicator of one’s health which has resulted in an increasing demand for anti-aging products. Exposure to UV radiation is considered to be one of the factors responsible for aging termed as photoaging. In this review, we have discussed the various factors which may accelerate the process of skin aging. Various approaches and strategies to delay the process of skin aging have been emphasized upon. The patents filed in the area of anti-aging and sunscreen products have also been reviewed to gain an insight into the new formulations which have been developed as an anti-aging product. There has been a tremendous rise in the cosmetic and cosmeceuticals market with products having a dual activity of anti-aging and sun protection. Research is constantly on the rise to ensure the safety of these products. Alternatives to the current topical application of sunscreen are being considered to overcome the drawback of reapplication of the sunscreen often which can be a boon to the cosmeceutical market.

Artificial turf: chemical flux and development of silicone wristband partitioning coefficients

This work provides the first quantitative measure of in situ flux of semi-volatile contaminants on artificial turf fields. Passive samplers were used to identify gas-phase PAHs and OPAHs not previously reported associated with artificial turf. Utilizing a broad and targeted screen, we assess both artificial turf and from crumb rubber for 1,529 chemicals, including several with known health effects including benzo[c]fluorene. We also report the presence of 25 chemicals that have not yet been reported in artificial turf literature, including some with known effects on human health. This is the first report of bioavailable gas-phase PAH and OPAH concentrations on an outdoor field, to date gas-phase concentrations have only been reported from indoor facilities. Turf air and air were highly correlated at all three sites, and particularly at the recently-installed indoor site. Finally, thermal extraction and silicone passive samplers are highly suitable for larger-scale sampling campaigns that aim for less solvent and sample processing. We demonstrate for the first time that silicone passive samplers can be used to quantify volatile and semi-volatile organic chemicals from artificial turf. Co-deploying silicone passive samplers and conventional low density polyethylene, we develop partitioning coefficients that can be used for silicone passive air sampling environmental assessment.

Spherical Composite Powder by Coupling Polymethyl Methacrylate and Boron Nitride via Spray Drying for Cosmetic Application

In the present study, spherical composite powder was successfully prepared via spray drying process using polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and hexagonal boron nitride (h-BN) powders. The pristine and as-prepared composite powders were examined using scanning electron microscopy, a particle size analyzer, oil absorption, and specific surface area analyses. These powders were then mixed with linseed oil to prepare samples for UV-Visible-Near Infrared spectroscopy investigation to determine their light absorption ability. Blank and powder-added blemish balm creams were examined using a sun protection factor tester and a thermal conductivity tester. In addition, transmittances of these creams were also evaluated. The experimental results show that spray-dried spherical composite powder exhibited good oil absorption ability. The blemish balm cream with 10 wt.% spray-dried composite powder not only exhibited superior sunscreen protection ability, but also good thermal conductivity.

Methodology for sample preparation and size measurement of commercial ZnO nanoparticles

This study discusses the strategies on sample preparation to acquire images with sufficient quality for size characterization by scanning electron microscope (SEM) using two commercial ZnO nanoparticles of different surface properties as a demonstration. The central idea is that micrometer sized aggregates of ZnO in powdered forms need to firstly be broken down to nanosized particles through an appropriate process to generate nanoparticle dispersion before being deposited on a flat surface for SEM observation. Analytical tools such as contact angle, dynamic light scattering and zeta potential have been utilized to optimize the procedure for sample preparation and to check the quality of the results. Meanwhile, measurements of zeta potential values on flat surfaces also provide critical information and save lots of time and efforts in selection of suitable substrate for particles of different properties to be attracted and kept on the surface without further aggregation. This simple, low-cost methodology can be generally applied on size characterization of commercial ZnO nanoparticles with limited information from vendors.

Neurotoxic effect of active ingredients in sunscreen products, a contemporary review

Sunscreen application is the main strategy used to prevent the maladies inflicted by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Despite the continuously increasing frequency of sunscreen use worldwide, the prevalence of certain sun exposure-related pathologies, mainly malignant melanoma, is also on the rise. In the past century, a variety of protective agents against UV exposure have been developed. Physical filters scatter and reflect UV rays and chemical filters absorb those rays. Alongside the evidence for increasing levels of these agents in the environment, which leads to indirect exposure of wildlife and humans, recent studies suggest a toxicological nature for some of these agents. Reviews on the role of these agents in developmental and endocrine impairments (both pathology and related mechanisms) are based on both animal and human studies, yet information regarding the potential neurotoxicity of these agents is scant. In this review, data regarding the neurotoxicity of several organic filters: octyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone-3 and −4, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor and octocrylene, and two allowed inorganic filters: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, is presented and discussed. Taken together, this review advocates revisiting the current safety and regulation of specific sunscreens and investing in alternative UV protection technologies.

Determination of bifonazole and identification of its photocatalytic degradation products using UPLC-MS/MS

The main goal of the presented work was to investigate the effect of ZnO or/and TiO₂ on the stability of bifonazole in solutions under UVA irradiation. To this end, a simple and reproducible UPLC method for the determination of bifonazole in the presence of its photocatalytic degradation products was developed. Linearity was studied in the range of 0.0046-0.15 mg mL^-1 with a determination coefficient of 0.9996. Bifonazole underwent a photocatalytic degradation process under the experimental conditions used. Comparative studies showed that combination of TiO₂ /ZnO (1:1 w/w) was a more effective catalyst than TiO₂ or ZnO with a degradation rate of up to 67.57% after 24 h of irradiation. Further, kinetic analyses indicated that the photocatalytic degradation of bifonazole in the mixture of TiO₂ /ZnO can be described by a pseudo-first order reaction. Statistical comparison clearly indicated that the presence of TiO₂ /ZnO also affected the stability of bifonazole from a cream preparation after 15 h of UVA exposure (p < 0.05). Ten photodegradation products of bifonazole were identified for the first time and their plausible fragmentation pathways, derived from MS/MS data, were proposed. The main pathway in the photocatalytic transformation of bifonazole in the presence of ZnO or/and TiO₂ involves hydroxylation of the methanetriyl group and/or adjacent phenyl rings and cleavage of the imidazole moiety.

Safer-by-design hybrid nanostructures: an alternative to conventional titanium dioxide UV filters in skin care products

Experimental synthesis of TiO₂nanoparticlesviasafer-by-design approach to minimize their exposure risks.

Chemical characterization of sunscreens composition and its related potential adverse health effects

Although the sun is very beneficial and essential for life, exposing ourselves too much to sunlight might lead to detrimental health effects such as skin cancer. Eight percent of the total different electromagnetic radiation that regularly irradiates the earth is classified as ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The ozone layer absorbs the most energetic UV rays; consequently, UV-A and UV-B reach the earth surface. UV-A rays heavily contribute to both premature skin aging and skin cancer, while UV-B rays cause sunburn. Hence, the use of sunscreen is strongly encouraged by many healthcare practitioners in order to minimize or possibly eradicate the harmful effects of UV rays on our skin, keeping in mind, that about 90% of all skin cancers are associated with exposure to the sun's harmful radiation. Unfortunately, inaccurate information is currently roaming the media and the Internet regarding the safety, toxicity, and acute side effects of the active ingredients currently used in sunscreens, therefore discouraging people from using sunscreens. In this review article, it is concluded based on the scientific published literature that the sunscreen ingredients are safe and there are no related potential hazardous health risks associated with their use. In addition, at present, sunscreens are very useful in preventing sunburn and probably skin cancer and photoaging and their regular use can have a positive and a significant impact on public health as means or instruments implemented to reduce exposure to UV radiation.

Plant-based active photoprotectants for sunscreens

Excessive exposure to the sun's radiation is the major exogenous mediator of skin damage, which accelerates skin ageing and increases the risk of developing skin cancer. Compounds with photoprotectant activity are extremely useful for decreasing the effect of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin; however, numerous sun filters, especially organic sunscreens, are allergenic. Therefore, the development of formulations containing plant extracts, which may be potentially safer, is extensively being explored. Plant-based cosmetics are commonly used to avoid skin ageing because they contain antioxidant agents that minimize free radical activity, and numerous studies have investigated the skin-protectant effects of related plant species. In addition to their antioxidant properties, plant-based cosmetics protect the skin against solar radiation because they contain polyphenols such as flavonoids and carotenoids. Therefore, this study aims to present a review of plant species commonly used in sunscreens to protect the skin against damage due to sunlight exposure.

Improvement of the facial evenness of leave-on skincare products by a modified application method in Chinese women

OBJECTIVE

To understand the habits of Chinese women applying leave-on skincare products (LOSCP) and to improve female facial evenness of anti-ageing cosmetics through modifying facial skincare smear ways.

METHODS

A questionnaire on the method of applying LOSCP was distributed to 60 women with habit of using LOSCP. Their facial images before and after applying LOSCP were taken, and their positioning and grey value were used to analyse the effects of different applying methods on the uniformity of facial LOSCP.

RESULTS

LOSCP including anti-ageing cosmetics have been widely used among Chinese women for a long time. However, some women do not concern how to properly apply LOSCP. In our survey, the main focal points of the face are forehead, malar region, cheek, mouth corners and chin when they looking into the mirror, and mouth corners and inner canthus are often overlooked when applying cosmetic products. The image analysis found that after applying the LOSCP, the greyscale of the forehead, glabella, malar region, upper lip region and jaw changed significantly whereas that of canthus, mouth corners and lateral cheek region was not significantly different. Applying an improved smear method (11-point method)could significantly increase the grey values of various facial areas.

CONCLUSION

The way of Chinese women applying LOSCP may result in facial unevenness of skin products. By improving facial skincare smear method, one can make the products even in all facial areas, thereby ensuring the efficacy of anti-ageing cosmetics. Thus, further improvement and education regarding skincare is required.

Sun exposure, sunbeds and sunscreens and melanoma. What are the controversies?

The association between various measures of sun exposure and melanoma risk is quite complex to dissect as many case-control studies of melanoma included different subtypes of melanomas which are likely to be biologically different, so interpretation of the data is difficult. Screening bias in countries with high levels of sun exposure is also an issue. Now that progress is being made in the genetic subclassification of melanoma tumours, it is apparent that melanomas have different somatic changes according to body sites/histological subtypes and that UV exposure may be relevant for some but not all types of melanomas. Melanoma behaviour also points to non-sun-related risk factors, and complex gene-environment interactions are likely. As UV exposure is the only environmental factor ever linked to melanoma, it is still prudent to avoid excessive sun exposure and sunburn especially in poor tanners. However, the impact of strict sun avoidance, which should not be recommended, may take years to be apparent as vitamin D deficiency is a now a common health issue in Caucasian populations, with a significant impact on health in general.

Cutaneous porphyrias part II: treatment strategies

The porphyrias are diverse in pathophysiology, clinical presentation, severity, and prognosis, presenting a diagnostic and therapeutic challenge. Although not easily curable, the dermatological manifestations of these diseases, photosensitivity and associated cutaneous pathology, can be effectively prevented and managed. Sun avoidance is essential, and patient education regarding the irreversibility of photocutaneous damage is a necessary corollary. Beyond preventative measures, the care of fragile, vulnerable skin, and pain management, each of the porphyrias has a limited number of unique additional therapeutic options. Many of the treatments have been published only in small case series or anecdotal reports and do not have well-understood nor proven mechanisms of action. This article presents a comprehensive review of available therapeutic options and long-term management recommendations for the cutaneous porphyrias.

Inorganic UV filters

Nowadays, concern over skin cancer has been growing more and more, especially in tropical countries where the incidence of UVA/B radiation is higher. The correct use of sunscreen is the most efficient way to prevent the development of this disease. The ingredients of sunscreen can be organic and/or inorganic sun filters. Inorganic filters present some advantages over organic filters, such as photostability, non-irritability and broad spectrum protection. Nevertheless, inorganic filters have a whitening effect in sunscreen formulations owing to the high refractive index, decreasing their esthetic appeal. Many techniques have been developed to overcome this problem and among them, the use of nanotechnology stands out. The estimated amount of nanomaterial in use must increase from 2000 tons in 2004 to a projected 58000 tons in 2020. In this context, this article aims to analyze critically both the different features of the production of inorganic filters (synthesis routes proposed in recent years) and the permeability, the safety and other characteristics of the new generation of inorganic filters.