Natural options for the management of hyperpigmentation

TIPred: a novel stacked ensemble approach for the accelerated discovery of tyrosinase inhibitory peptides

BACKGROUND

Tyrosinase is an enzyme involved in melanin production in the skin. Several hyperpigmentation disorders involve the overproduction of melanin and instability of tyrosinase activity resulting in darker, discolored patches on the skin. Therefore, discovering tyrosinase inhibitory peptides (TIPs) is of great significance for basic research and clinical treatments. However, the identification of TIPs using experimental methods is generally cost-ineffective and time-consuming.

RESULTS

Herein, a stacked ensemble learning approach, called TIPred, is proposed for the accurate and quick identification of TIPs by using sequence information. TIPred explored a comprehensive set of various baseline models derived from well-known machine learning (ML) algorithms and heterogeneous feature encoding schemes from multiple perspectives, such as chemical structure properties, physicochemical properties, and composition information. Subsequently, 130 baseline models were trained and optimized to create new probabilistic features. Finally, the feature selection approach was utilized to determine the optimal feature vector for developing TIPred. Both tenfold cross-validation and independent test methods were employed to assess the predictive capability of TIPred by using the stacking strategy. Experimental results showed that TIPred significantly outperformed the state-of-the-art method in terms of the independent test, with an accuracy of 0.923, MCC of 0.757 and an AUC of 0.977.

CONCLUSIONS

The proposed TIPred approach could be a valuable tool for rapidly discovering novel TIPs and effectively identifying potential TIP candidates for follow-up experimental validation. Moreover, an online webserver of TIPred is publicly available at http://pmlabstack.pythonanywhere.com/TIPred .

Anti-Melanogenic and Antioxidant Activity of Bifidobacterium longum Strain ZJ1 Extracts, Isolated from a Chinese Centenarian

Melanin produced by melanocytes protects our skin against ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced cell damage and oxidative stress. Melanin overproduction by hyperactivated melanocytes is the direct cause of skin hyperpigmentary disorders, such as freckles and melasma. Exploring natural whitening agents without the concern of toxicity has been highly desired. In this study, we focused on a Bifidobacterium longum strain, ZJ1, isolated from a Chinese centenarian, and we evaluated the anti-melanogenic activity of the distinctive extracts of ZJ1. Our results demonstrated that whole lysate (WL) and bacterial lysate (BL) of ZJ1 ferments efficiently reduce α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin production in B16-F10 cells as well as the melanin content in zebrafish embryos. BL and WL downregulate melanogenesis-related gene expression and indirectly inhibit intracellular tyrosinase activity. Furthermore, they both showed antioxidant activity in a menadione-induced zebrafish embryo model. Our results suggest that ZJ1 fermentation lysates have application potential as therapeutic reagents for hyperpigmentary disorders and whitening agents for cosmetics.

Preparation of niacinamide imprinted starch-based biomaterials for treating of hyperpigmentation

The aim of this study was to prepare niacinamide (NA) imprinted biomaterials for treating hyperpigmentation using mungbean starch (MS), PVA, and plasticizers (glycerol (GL) and citric acid (CA)). Biomaterials and NA were characterized by FE-SEM, FT-IR, and ¹H NMR. To evaluate the applicability of the NA imprinted biomaterials for a transdermal drug delivery system (TDDS), NA release experiment was conducted in different pH and temperature conditions. Results of NA release properties indicated that NA was released about 99 % rapidly in the initial 10 min. NA release in low pH and high temperature was also higher than that in high pH and low temperature. The determination of experimental conditions and the analysis of NA release results were achieved using response surface methodology (RSM). Results of NA release using artificial skin indicated that NA release from NA imprinted biomaterials was increased at a relatively steady rate for 90 min. To verify for treating hyperpigmentation of the prepared biomaterials, tyrosinase inhibitory and antioxidant inhibitory were performed. Results indicated that NA imprinted biomaterials with the addition of CA exhibited 55.8 % of tyrosinase inhibitory and 73.0 % of antioxidant inhibitory. In addition, their ability to inhibit melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells was evaluated.

Formulation and Physicochemical Evaluation of a 3% Cream Using Crude 70% Ethanolic Extract of Morus alba L. Leaves for Skin Hyperpigmentation

Background: Treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders is a challenge because of the side effects of current topical treatments. Thus, research for potent alternatives, especially of herbal origin, with comparable potency and less side effects is ongoing. Mours alba L. is a perennial plant with multiple established pharmacological effects, including antimelanogenesis effect. This effect has been demonstrated from different parts of the plant, including twigs, root barks, and leaves by measuring tyrosinase inhibition, melanin content, and melanin index, and it has been attributed to phenolic compounds such as oxyresveratrol and moracin M, to name a few. However, no study has considered formulating the total phenolic compounds from the leaves of this plant so far. Objectives: The aim of this study was to extract phenolic compounds of leaves with repeated maceration using 70% ethanol, formulate the crude extract, inspect its physicochemical stability under accelerated conditions, and assay for microbial growth and active phenolic compounds. Methods: Total phenolic compounds were extracted using 70% ethanol with repeated maceration, and then they were concentrated. The extract was then assayed for total phenolic content using Folin-Ciocalteu’s reagent. A 3% cream of this extract was manufactured, and its physicochemical parameters, microbial growth, preservative effectiveness, and total phenolic content were examined. Results: The prepared 3% cream was completely stable and homogeneous during the accelerated conditions and passed the physicochemical, total phenolic content, and microbial tests. Conclusions: The manufactured cream is a promising formulation for in vivo use as a skin lightening agent.

Spectrophotometric Assays for Sensing Tyrosinase Activity and Their Applications

Tyrosinase (TYR, E.C. 1.14.18.1), a critical enzyme participating in melanogenesis, catalyzes the first two steps in melanin biosynthesis including the ortho-hydroxylation of L-tyrosine and the oxidation of L-DOPA. Previous pharmacological investigations have revealed that an abnormal level of TYR is tightly associated with various dermatoses, including albinism, age spots, and malignant melanoma. TYR inhibitors can partially block the formation of pigment, which are always used for improving skin tone and treating dermatoses. The practical and reliable assays for monitoring TYR activity levels are very useful for both disease diagnosis and drug discovery. This review comprehensively summarizes structural and enzymatic characteristics, catalytic mechanism and substrate preference of TYR, as well as the recent advances in biochemical assays for sensing TYR activity and their biomedical applications. The design strategies of various TYR substrates, alongside with several lists of all reported biochemical assays for sensing TYR including analytical conditions and kinetic parameters, are presented for the first time. Additionally, the biomedical applications and future perspectives of these optical assays are also highlighted. The information and knowledge presented in this review offer a group of practical and reliable assays and imaging tools for sensing TYR activities in complex biological systems, which strongly facilitates high-throughput screening TYR inhibitors and further investigations on the relevance of TYR to human diseases.

Achillea Species as Sources of Active Phytochemicals for Dermatological and Cosmetic Applications

Achillea spp. is well known for its broad range of applications and long history of use in traditional medicine around the world. Health benefits of Achillea extracts result from the multitude of secondary metabolites identified in the plants from this genus that include flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenes, guaianolides, phytosterols, fatty acids, and organic acids. The properties of several Achillea extracts meet also the expectations of a vividly developing cosmetic market. An increasing number of studies on the dermatological properties of Achillea spp. are observed in the recent years, with Achillea millefolium L. being the most studied and used representative of the genus. There is strong scientific evidence showing that also other yarrow species might be rich sources of effective cosmetic ingredients, with skin calming and rejuvenating properties, wound healing activity, and anti-inflammatory potential. Several Achillea extracts and isolated compounds were also shown to display significant tyrosinase inhibitory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties and thus are interesting candidates for active ingredients of medications and cosmetic products protecting the skin from the harmful impact of environmental stressors. The aim of this review is to collect the current information on the composition and cosmeceutical significance of different Achillea species.

Phoenix dactylifera L. Seed Extract Exhibits Antioxidant Effects and Attenuates Melanogenesis in B16F10 Murine Melanoma Cells by Downregulating PKA Signaling

Background: The mode of action of Phoenix dactylifera seed extract in skin care has never been explored. Methods: P. dactylifera L. seeds were extracted by ultrasonic extraction. The antioxidant characteristics of the extract were determined by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-di-(3-ethylbenzthiazoline sulfonic acid) (ABTS⁺) assays and scavenging methods. The total phenolic content, reducing capacity, iron (II) ion-chelation, and intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS)-scavenging capacities were also investigated. The effects of P. dactylifera L. seed extract on melanogenesis were evaluated spectrophotometrically by a mushroom tyrosinase activity assay, determination of intracellular tyrosinase activity, and melanin content. The expression levels of melanogenesis-related proteins were analyzed by Western blotting. Results: The results revealed that the P. dactylifera L. seed extract exerted apparent antioxidant capacity and significantly decreased intracellular ROS content at concentrations of 0.245 and 0.49 (mg/mL). Furthermore, the extract decreased the expression of melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP1), and tyrosinase-related protein-2 (TRP2), and inhibited melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. Conclusions: Our results revealed that P. dactylifera L. seed extract attenuated melanogenesis in B16F10 cells by downregulating protein kinase A (PKA) signaling pathways. Hence, the extract could be used as a type of skin-whitening agent in skin care products.

Tyrosinase and Melanogenesis Inhibition by Indigenous African Plants: A Review

The indiscriminate use of non-regulated skin lighteners among African populations has raised health concerns due to the negative effects associated with skin lightener toxicity. For this reason, there is a growing interest in the cosmetic development of plants and their metabolites as alternatives to available chemical-derived skin lightening formulations. Approximately 90% of Africa’s population depends on traditional medicine, and the continent’s biodiversity holds plant material with various biological activities, thus attracting considerable research interest. This study aimed to review existing evidence and document indigenous African plant species capable of inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase and melanogenesis for potential incorporation into skin lightening products. Literature search on melanin biosynthesis, skin lightening, and tyrosinase inhibitors resulted in the identification of 35 plant species were distributed among 31 genera and 21 families across 15 African countries and 9 South African provinces. All plants identified in this study showed competent tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibitory capabilities. These results indicate that African plants have the potential to serve as alternatives to current chemically-derived skin lighteners.

Traditional Asian Herbs in Skin Whitening: The Current Development and Limitations

In Asia, the market for whitening cosmetics is expanding rapidly, more and more people prefer to use natural products. Driven by natural product demand and technical advances, herbal research is also developing fast. Lots of studies reported that Asian herbal reagents can reduce melanogenesis, these findings provide evidence for the whitening application of Asian herbs. However, the current development status and challenges of herbal research need attention too. By reviewing these studies, different problems in studying herbal formulas, extracts, and active ingredients were presented. One of the most influential troubles is that the components of herbs are too complex to obtain reliable results. Thus, an understanding of the overall quality of herbal research is necessary. Further, 90 most cited Asian herbal studies on whitening were collected, which were conducted between 2017 and 2020, then statistical analysis was carried out. This work provided a comprehensive understanding of Asian herbal research in skin whitening, including the overall status and quality, as well as the focuses and limitations of these studies. By proactively confronting and analyzing these issues, it is suggested that the focus of herbal medicine research needs to shift from quantity to quality, and the new stage of development should emphasize transformation from research findings to whitening products.

Depigmenting potential of lichen extracts evaluated by in vitro and in vivo tests

Melanin is the main pigment of human skin, playing the primary role of protection from ultraviolet radiation. Alteration of the melanin production may lead to hyperpigmentation diseases, with both aesthetic and health consequences. Thus, suppressors of melanogenesis are considered useful tools for medical and cosmetic treatments. A great interest is focused on natural sources, aimed at finding safe and quantitatively available depigmenting substances. Lichens are thought to be possible sources of this kind of compounds, as the occurrence of many phenolic molecules suggests possible effects on phenolase enzymes involved in melanin synthesis, like tyrosinase. In this work, we used four lichen species, Cetraria islandica Ach., Flavoparmelia caperata Hale, Letharia vulpina (L.) Hue, and Parmotrema perlatum (Hudson) M. Choisy, to obtain extracts in solvents of increasing polarity, viz. chloroform, chloroform-methanol, methanol, and water. Cell-free, tyrosinase inhibition experiments showed highest inhibition for L. vulpina methanol extract, followed by C. islandica chloroform-methanol one. Comparable results for depigmenting activities were observed by means of in vitro and in vivo systems, such as MeWo melanoma cells and zebrafish larvae. Our study provides first evidence of depigmenting effects of lichen extracts, from tyrosinase inhibition to cell and in vivo models, suggesting that L. vulpina and C. islandica extracts deserve to be further studied for developing skin-whitening products.

Biotechnology Applied to Cosmetics and Aesthetic Medicines

Biotechnology uses microorganisms and/or enzymes to obtain specific products through fermentative processes and/or genetic engineering techniques. Examples of these products are active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, kojic acid, resveratrol, and some enzymes, which are used in skin anti-aging products. In addition, certain growth factors, algae, stem cells, and peptides have been included in cosmetics and aesthetic medicines. Thus, biotechnology, cosmetics and aesthetic medicines are now closely linked, through the production of high-quality active ingredients, which are more effective and safer. This work describes the most used active ingredients that are produced from biotechnological processes. Although there are a vast number of active ingredients, the number of biotechnological active ingredients reported in the literature is not significantly high.

Characterization of Cistus × incanus L. and Cistus ladanifer L. Extracts as Potential Multifunctional Antioxidant Ingredients for Skin Protecting Cosmetics

Skin is constantly exposed to harmful environmental factors, causing photo-oxidative stress in cells and leading to the development of health and aesthetic problems. Multifunctional ingredients of everyday skincare products, possessing antioxidant, UV-protecting, anti-hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer-preventing properties are in high demand. Due to the high content of polyphenolic compounds Cistus × incanus L. and Cistus ladanifer L. are potentially interesting sources of cosmetic ingredients with multiple skin protecting functions. In this study eight extracts from dried C. incanus and C. ladanifer-aerial parts were prepared using 60% (v/v) or 100% (v/v) methanol, on a magnetic stirrer or in Soxhlet apparatus, and compared for their content of phytochemicals and properties important for the skin protection. Extracts from C. incanus prepared in 60% (v/v) methanol contained the highest amount of polyphenolic compounds (331.82-347.27 mg GAE/g DW) and showed the most significant antioxidant activity (IC₅₀ = 3.81-4.05 µg/mL). C. incanus extracts were also effective tyrosinase inhibitors (30-70% inhibition at 100 µg/mL). Statistical correlation analysis revealed that epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), and myricitrin may be responsible for the antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential of C. incanus extracts. All analyzed extracts were cytotoxic for human melanoma cells A375 (IC₅₀ = 57.80-199.01 µg/mL), with C. incanus extract prepared in 100% (v/v) methanol using Soxhlet extraction being the most effective. The extracts did not significantly impair the growth of noncancerous human keratinocytes HaCaT. C. incanus and C. ladanifer extracts possess also natural sun protecting activity (SPF 3.42-3.77 at 100 µg/mL), enhancing their anti-hyperpigmentation and anti-melanoma potential.

Amine derivatives of furocoumarin induce melanogenesis by activating Akt/GSK-3β/β-catenin signal pathway

Background

Melanogenesis, or the biosynthesis of melanin, plays a critical role in the pigmentation of skin, hair, and eyes. Reduced melanogenesis may lead to depigmentation conditions such as vitiligo. Psoralen, a furocoumarin derivative, is closely associated with melanogenesis, and its derivative 8-methoxypsoralen is used in psoralen and ultraviolet A therapy for pigmentation disorders. In a previous study, we synthesized a new series of amine derivatives of furocoumarin, of which 5-(morpholinomethyl)-3-phenyl-7H-furo[3,2-g]chromen-7-one (encoded as D206008) showed a remarkable melanogenic effect in B16 murine cells.

Methods

In this study, we examined the effects of D206008 on the melanogenesis-related pathways in B16 cells. D206008 increased melanin production and tyrosinase (TYR) activity, as well as the mRNA and protein expression levels of the melanogenic enzymes TYR, TRP-1 and TRP-2, and the melanogenesis-related transcription factor microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) in a dose-dependent (0–100 µM) and time-dependent (0–48 hours) manner.

Results

Mechanistically, D206008 inhibited β-catenin degradation by enhancing the phosphorylation of Akt and glycogen synthase kinase-3β (GSK-3β), which increased the accumulation of β-catenin in the cytoplasm. Nuclear translocation of β-catenin also increased in response to D206008 treatment.

Conclusion

Taken together, these data indicate that D206008 promotes melanin synthesis by stimulating the nuclear translocation of β-catenin, which activates MITF transcription and eventually melanogenesis.

Efficacy of Various Preservatives on Extending Shelf Life of Vacuum-Packaged Raw Pork during 4°C Storage

Uncontrolled bacterial growth and metabolic activities are responsible for the short shelf life of raw pork. Culture-independent analysis by 16S ribosome cDNA could reveal viable bacteria in raw pork. This study investigated microbial growth and volatile organic compounds of raw pork supplemented with various preservatives. Vacuum-packaged raw pork was stored at 4°C, after soaking in solutions of potassium sorbate, ε-poly-l-lysine, kojic acid (KA), or sodium diacetate, individually. Spoilage of raw pork was monitored by determining pH and total volatile basic nitrogen, whereas bacterial growth was determined by culture-dependent and culture-independent analyses. Data indicated that all the preservatives were able to inhibit bacterial growth and extend the shelf life of pork. High-throughput sequencing of 16S ribosome cDNA indicated that Pseudomonas was inhibited under vacuum conditions, whereas facultative anaerobes ( Acinetobacter, Photobacterium, Brochothrix, and Myroides) were the most active genera in the spoiled pork. Photobacterium was further inhibited by each preservative. The inhibition of Acinetobacter, Photobacterium, and Myroides could be responsible for the extended shelf life of vacuum-packaged pork; they were effectively inhibited by KA, which also induced the longest shelf life. Moreover, 19 types of volatile organic compounds were detected. 3-Methylbutanol, 3-methylbutanol acetate, 2-butanone, toluene, benzeneacetaldehyde, dimethyl trisulfide, and acetoin were associated with spoilage. Furthermore, KA is a potential preservative in raw pork; because no phenol was detectable within 35 days, excessive intake of phenol induced by preservatives was avoided.

Natural options for management of melasma, a review

A blemish free, even-toned skin is universally associated with healthy skin. This reasoning makes people desire to have a flawless skin. Melanin is a naturally occurring pigment in humans. This pigment is responsible for skin, hair, and eye color, therefore determines our race and phenotypic appearance. On darker skin types, it is common that melanin production processes malfunctions. These malfunctions often lead to overproduction and secretion of melanin. As a result, unwanted pigmentary problems such melasma occur. Due to unknown etiology and its recurrence in nature, melasma is challenging to treat. The current available melasma treatment options often produce undesired side effects and suboptimum results. First-line topical treatments usually involve hydroquinone or topical steroids. Apart from the irritant reactions, this treatment mode is not suitable for all skin types. Skin care specialists are in search of an effective long-term cosmetics and cosmeceuticals to address hypermelanosis problems. Understanding of naturally occurring depigmenting agents provides an opportunity for more effective ways to manage melasma in all skin types. This review considers the benefits of naturally occurring ingredients which could help address skin pigmentation problems and broaden the choice for skin-lightening treatments.

Protocatechuic Acid from Pear Inhibits Melanogenesis in Melanoma Cells

Despite the critical role of melanin in the protection of skin against UV radiation, excess production of melanin can lead to hyperpigmentation and skin cancer. Pear fruits are often used in traditional medicine for the treatment of melasma; therefore, we investigated the effects of pear extract (PE) and its component, protocatechuic acid (PCA), on melanogenesis in mouse melanoma cells. We found that PE and PCA significantly suppressed melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity through a decrease in the expression of melanogenic enzymes and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (Mitf) in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-stimulated mouse melanoma cells. Moreover, PCA decreased cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) levels and cAMP-responsive element-binding protein phosphorylation, which downregulated Mitf promoter activation and subsequently mediated the inhibition of melanogenesis. These results suggested that pear may be an effective skin lightening agent that targets either a tyrosinase activity or a melanogenic pathway.

Daily Use of a Facial Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Over One-Year Significantly Improves Clinical Evaluation of Photoaging

BACKGROUND

Sunscreens are known to protect from sun damage; however, their effects on the reversal of photodamage have been minimally investigated.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of the prospective study was to evaluate the efficacy of a facial sun protection factor (SPF) 30 formulation for the improvement of photodamage during a 1-year use.

METHODS

Thirty-two subjects applied a broad spectrum photostable sunscreen (SPF 30) for 52 weeks to the entire face. Assessments were conducted through dermatologist evaluations and subjects' self-assessment at baseline and then at Weeks 12, 24, 36, and 52.

RESULTS

Clinical evaluations showed that all photoaging parameters improved significantly from baseline as early as Week 12 and the amelioration continued until Week 52. Skin texture, clarity, and mottled and discrete pigmentation were the most improved parameters by the end of the study (40% to 52% improvement from baseline), with 100% of subjects showing improvement in skin clarity and texture.

CONCLUSION

The daily use of a facial broad-spectrum photostable sunscreen may visibly reverse the signs of existing photodamage, in addition to preventing additional sun damage.

Biodegradable Kojic Acid-Based Polymers: Controlled Delivery of Bioactives for Melanogenesis Inhibition

Kojic acid (KA) is a naturally occurring fungal metabolite that is utilized as a skin-lightener and antibrowning agent owing to its potent tyrosinase inhibition activity. While efficacious, KA's inclination to undergo pH-mediated, thermal-, and photodegradation reduces its efficacy, necessitating stabilizing vehicles. To minimize degradation, poly(carbonate-esters) and polyesters comprised of KA and natural diacids were prepared via solution polymerization methods. In vitro hydrolytic degradation analyses revealed KA release was drastically influenced by polymer backbone composition (e.g., poly(carbonate-ester) vs polyester), linker molecule (aliphatic vs heteroatom-containing), and release conditions (physiological vs skin). Tyrosinase inhibition assays demonstrated that aliphatic KA dienols, the major degradation product under skin conditions, were more potent then KA itself. All dienols were found to be less toxic than KA at all tested concentrations. Additionally, the most lipophilic dienols were statistically more effective than KA at inhibiting melanin biosynthesis in cells. These KA-based polymer systems deliver KA analogues with improved efficacy and cytocompatible profiles, making them ideal candidates for sustained topical treatments in both medical and personal care products.

Pharmacological Activities and Phytochemical Constituents

Glycyrrhiza glabra is one of the most popular medicinal plants and it has been used in traditional herbal remedy since ancient times (Blumenthal et al. in Herbal medicine: expanded commission E monographs. Integrative Medicine Communications, Newton, 2000; Parvaiz et al. in Global J Pharmocol 8(1):8–13, 2014; Altay et al. in J Plant Res 129(6):1021–1032, 2016). Many experimental, pharmacological and clinical studies show that liquorice has antimicrobial, antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, antihepatotoxic, antioxidant, antiulcer, anti-hemorrhoid antihyperglycemic, antidiuretic, antinephritic, anticarcinogenic, antimutagenic, anticytotoxic, anti-inflammatory, and blood stopper activity.

Trihydroxybenzoic acid glucoside as a global skin color modulator and photo-protectant

Background

3,4,5-Trihydroxybenzoic acid glucoside (THBG), a molecule produced by an original biocatalysis-based technology, was assessed in this study with respect to its skin photoprotective capacity and its skin color control property on Asian-type skin at a clinical level and on skin explant culture models.

Methods

The double-blinded clinical study was done in comparison to a vehicle by the determination of objective color parameters thanks to recognized quantitative and qualitative analysis tools, including Chroma-Meter, VISIA-CR™, and SIAscope™. Determination of L* (brightness), a* and b* (green–red and blue–yellow chromaticity coordinates), individual typology angle, and C* (chroma) and h* (hue angle) parameters using a Chroma-Meter demonstrated that THBG is able to modify skin color while quantification of ultraviolet (UV) spots by VISIA-CR™ confirmed its photoprotective effect. The mechanism of action of THBG molecule was determined using explant skin culture model coupled to histological analysis (epidermis melanin content staining).

Results

We have demonstrated that THBG was able to modulate significantly several critical parameters involved in skin color control such as L* (brightness), a* (redness), individual typology angle (pigmentation), and hue angle (yellowness in this study), whereas no modification occurs on b* and C* parameters. We have demonstrated using histological staining that THBG decrease epidermis melanin content under unirradiated and irradiated condition. We also confirmed that THBG molecule is not a sunscreen agent.

Conclusion

This study demonstrated that THBG controls skin tone via the inhibition of melanin synthesis as well as the modulation of skin brightness, yellowness, and redness.

Inhibitory effect of GB-2a (I3-naringenin-II8-eriodictyol) on melanogenesis

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGY RELEVANCE

GB-2a is a I3-naringenin-II8-eriodictyol compound isolated from Garcinia gardneriana (Planchon & Triana) Zappi, a plant used in folk medicine for the treatment of skin disorders.

AIM OF STUDY

In the search for new depigmenting agents, this study was carried out to investigate the in vitro effects of GB-2a isolated from G. gardneriana (Planchon & Triana) Zappi in B16F10 melanoma cells.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The effects of GB-2a were evaluated through determination of melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells in comparison with the reference drug kojic acid (500µM). In parallel, the GB-2a effect was assessed in a cell viability assay. Mushroom tyrosinase activity assays were conducted to verify the effect of this enzyme. In order to ascertain the nature of enzyme inhibition on tyrosinase, kinetics analysis of the GB-2a was performed with L-tyrosine and L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) substrates.

RESULTS

The results showed that GB-2a biflavonoid significantly inhibited the melanin content, without reducing cell viability. GB-2a also showed a strong antityrosinase activity in the mushroom tyrosinase assay. GB-2a inhibited the tyrosinase activity, exerting a mixed inhibition. For the L-tyrosine substrate the inhibition was in non-competitive mode and for L-DOPA it was in uncompetitive mode.

CONCLUSION

GB-2a biflavonoid promoted inhibition on tyrosinase activity and reduced melanin biosynthesis in B16F10 cells, which suggests great potential for medical and cosmetic uses as a depigmenting agent.

Augmenting the antifungal activity of an oxidizing agent with kojic Acid: control of penicillium strains infecting crops

Oxidative treatment is one of the strategies for preventing Penicillium contamination in crops/foods. The antifungal efficacy of hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂; oxidant) was investigated in Penicillium strains by using kojic acid (KA) as a chemosensitizing agent, which can enhance the susceptibility of pathogens to antifungal agents. Co-application of KA with H₂O₂ (chemosensitization) resulted in the enhancement of antifungal activity of either compound, when compared to the independent application of each agent alone. Of note, heat enhanced the activity of H₂O₂ to a greater extent during chemosensitization, whereby the minimum inhibitory or minimum fungicidal concentrations of H₂O₂ was decreased up to 4 or 13 fold, respectively, at 35–45 °C (heat), when compared to that at 28 °C (normal growth temperature). However, heat didn’t increase the antifungal activity of KA, indicating specificity exists between heat and types of antifungals applied. The effect of chemosensitization was also strain-specific, where P. expansum (both parental and fludioxonil-resistant mutants) or P. italicum 983 exhibited relatively higher susceptibility to the chemosensitization, comparing to other Penicillium strains tested. Collectively, chemosensitization can serve as a potent antifungal strategy to lower effective dosages of toxic antifungal substances, such as H₂O₂. This can lead to coincidental lowering of environmental and health risks.

The melanogenesis-inhibitory effect and the percutaneous formulation of ginsenoside Rb1

Ginsenoside Rb1 (Rb1) is the most predominant ginsenoside isolated from the roots of ginseng (Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer). This compound is active in various human biological pathways that are involved in human collagen synthesis and inhibition of cell apoptosis. In this study, the skin-whitening effects of Rb1 were investigated in B16 melanoma cells. Our results showed that Rb1 inhibited melanogenesis in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16 cells in a dose-dependent manner, which collectively indicated that Rb1 may have skin-whitening effects and may be formulated into skin-whitening products for skin care. Accordingly, a ginsenoside collagen transdermal patch was developed as a vehicle to topically deliver Rb1 into pig skin. The percutaneous permeation, retention within skin, and release in vitro of Rb1 from seven transdermal patch formulas were studied. It was determined that the best formula for ginsenoside collagen transdermal patch is made of protein collagen hydrolysate powder (PCHP) 2.0% (w/w), methyl cellulose (MC) 0.5% (w/w), polyethyleneglycol 6000 (PEG6000) 0.5% (w/w), ginsenoside 0.036% (w/w), azone 0.4% (v/w), menthol 0.20% (w/w), and water.

Bioactivity and potential health benefits of licorice

Licorice is an herbal plant named for its unique sweet flavor. It is widely used in the food and tobacco industries as a sweetener. Licorice is also used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) and complementary medicine. Because the use of licorice has long been a part of TCM, the details of its therapeutic applications have been thoroughly established. In modern science, licorice is of interest because of its broad range of applications. Extracts of and compounds isolated from licorice have been well studied and biologically characterized. In this review, we discuss the nutraceutical and functional activities of licorice as well as those of the extracts of and the isolated compounds from licorice, including agents with anti-inflammatory activity, cell-protective abilities, and chemopreventive effects. The side effects of licorice are also enumerated. A comparison of the activities of licorice described by modern science and TCM is also presented, revealing the correspondence of certain characteristics.

Inhibitory effects of salidroside and paeonol on tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in mouse B16F10 melanoma cells and ultraviolet B-induced pigmentation in guinea pig skin

Salidroside, the major active component of Rhodiola rosea, a herb with antioxidant, free radical scavenging and tyrosinase inhibitory effects, has been recently reported in protecting the kerationcytes from the UV radiation, suggesting the potential of this component in depigmentation. Paeonol is isolated from Moutan Cortex Radicis with anti-inflammation/microbial activities, was reported to induce the down-regulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and subsequently tyrosinase. To testify the potential of these compounds as melanin formation inhibitors for hyperpigmentation therapy, the influence of salidroside and paeonol on pigmentation was investigated. With arbutin as a positive control, salidroside and paeonol were evaluated for their inhibitory effect on the cell viability, tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells, as well as their effects in UVB-induced hyperpigmentation in brown guinea pig skins. It was demonstrated that the significant inhibition of salidroside (33.0%) and paeonol (22.2-30.9%) on the tyrosinase activity is slightly lower than that of arbutin (18.4-44.7%). However, salidroside exhibited the dose-dependent inhibition (30.6-42.0%) in melanin synthesis at a low concentration of 100 μM, paeonol and arbutin expressed inhibition rates of 27.4-37.2% and 25.8-45.6% within 500-1000 μM. The in vivo topical application of these compounds was demonstrated to obviously decrease the hyperpigmentation on UVB stimulated guinea pig skin. This study provided the original evidence for the salidroside and paeonol as therapeutic agents for pigmentation disorder and skin lightening, with further clinical investigation of these compounds in the field of depigmentation was suggested.

The effects of Sophora angustifolia and other natural plant extracts on melanogenesis and melanin transfer in human skin cells

Skin pigmentation is a multistep process of melanin synthesis by melanocytes, its transfer to recipient keratinocytes and its degradation. As dyspigmentation is a prominent marker of skin ageing, novel effective agents that modulate pigmentation safely are being sought for both clinical and cosmetic use. Here, a number of plant extracts were examined for their effect on melanogenesis (by melanin assay and Western blotting) and melanin transfer (by confocal immunomicroscopy of gp100-positive melanin granules in cocultures and by SEM analysis of filopodia), in human melanocytes and in cocultures with phototype-matched normal adult epidermal keratinocytes. Mulberry, Kiwi and Sophora extracts were assessed against isobutylmethylxanthine, hydroquinone, vitamin C and niacinamide. Compared with unstimulated control, all extracts significantly reduced melanogenesis in human melanoma cells and normal adult epidermal melanocytes. These extracts also reduced melanin transfer and reduced filopodia expression on melanocytes, similar to hydroquinone and niacinamide, indicating their effectiveness as multimode pigmentation actives.

In vitro and in vivo studies disclosed the depigmenting effects of gallic acid: a novel skin lightening agent for hyperpigmentary skin diseases

Gallic acid (GA) is a phenolic compound, which has been reported to suppress melanogenesis in melanoma cells. However, the molecular mechanism underlying this inhibitory effect was poorly understood. In this article, we revealed that GA down-regulated melanogenic regulatory genes including tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), and dopachrome tatamerase (Dct) expression at transcriptional and translational level. In addition, GA effectively suppressed the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) expression by down-regulating the cAMP-mediated PKA/CREB signaling cascades. To delineate the inhibition of MITF by GA, the activation of extracellular signal-regulated protein kinase (ERK) and AKT was investigated. GA caused significant increase of ERK and AKT phosphorylation, while ERK (PD98059) or AKT (LY294002) inhibitor prevents their phosphorylation and increased melanin biosynthesis. In addition, pre-treatment of MITF-siRNA significantly reduced melanin production from 100 to 40%, and even decreased into 10% by combination treatment with GA. Furthermore, UVB-induced hyperpigmentation in the mice skin was significantly rescued by topical application of GA for 4 weeks. Immunohistochemical analyses also confirmed that GA significantly inhibited melanin production followed by the down-regulation of MITF, tyrosinase and their regulatory proteins. In addition, when compared with control zebrafish, GA caused a remarkable inhibition on the endogenous pigmentation in the zebrafish. Results presented in this study strongly suggest that GA is an effective de-pigmenting or skin lightening cosmetics for topical application.

Synergism of antifungal activity between mitochondrial respiration inhibitors and kojic acid

Co-application of certain types of compounds to conventional antimicrobial drugs can enhance the efficacy of the drugs through a process termed chemosensitization. We show that kojic acid (KA), a natural pyrone, is a potent chemosensitizing agent of complex III inhibitors disrupting the mitochondrial respiratory chain in fungi. Addition of KA greatly lowered the minimum inhibitory concentrations of complex III inhibitors tested against certain filamentous fungi. Efficacy of KA synergism in decreasing order was pyraclostrobin > kresoxim-methyl > antimycin A. KA was also found to be a chemosensitizer of cells to hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), tested as a mimic of reactive oxygen species involved in host defense during infection, against several human fungal pathogens and Penicillium strains infecting crops. In comparison, KA-mediated chemosensitization to complex III inhibitors/H₂O₂ was undetectable in other types of fungi, including Aspergillus flavus, A. parasiticus, and P. griseofulvum, among others. Of note, KA was found to function as an antioxidant, but not as an antifungal chemosensitizer in yeasts. In summary, KA could serve as an antifungal chemosensitizer to complex III inhibitors or H₂O₂ against selected human pathogens or Penicillium species. KA-mediated chemosensitization to H₂O₂ seemed specific for filamentous fungi. Thus, results indicate strain- and/or drug-specificity exist during KA chemosensitization.

Enhancement of commercial antifungal agents by Kojic Acid

Natural compounds that pose no significant medical or environmental side effects are potential sources of antifungal agents, either in their nascent form or as structural backbones for more effective derivatives. Kojic acid (KA) is one such compound. It is a natural by-product of fungal fermentation commonly employed by food and cosmetic industries. We show that KA greatly lowers minimum inhibitory (MIC) or fungicidal (MFC) concentrations of commercial medicinal and agricultural antifungal agents, amphotericin B (AMB) and strobilurin, respectively, against pathogenic yeasts and filamentous fungi. Assays using two mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) mutants, i.e., sakAΔ, mpkCΔ, of Aspergillus fumigatus, an agent for human invasive aspergillosis, with hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) or AMB indicate such chemosensitizing activity of KA is most conceivably through disruption of fungal antioxidation systems. KA could be developed as a chemosensitizer to enhance efficacy of certain conventional antifungal drugs or fungicides.

Natural Melanogenesis Inhibitors Acting Through the Down-Regulation of Tyrosinase Activity

Melanogenesis is a biosynthetic pathway for the formation of the pigment melanin in human skin. A key enzyme, tyrosinase, catalyzes the first and only rate-limiting steps in melanogenesis, and the down-regulation of enzyme activity is the most reported method for the inhibition of melanogenesis. Because of the cosmetically important issue of hyperpigmentation, there is a big demand for melanogenesis inhibitors. This encourages researchers to seek potent melanogenesis inhibitors for cosmetic uses. This article reviews melanogenesis inhibitors that have been recently discovered from natural sources. The reaction mechanisms of the inhibitors on tyrosinase activity are also discussed.

New horizons in treating disorders of hyperpigmentation in skin of color

Pigmentary abnormalities are among the most common reasons why patients with skin of color visit a dermatologist. Hydroquinone has been a cornerstone for the treatment of hyperpigmentation; however, concerns regarding adverse effects have prompted a search for alternative agents. Some promising topical treatments include soy, licorice, rucinol, mulberry, niacinamide, ellagic acid, resveratrol, and dioic acid. Oral agents, primarily used for the prevention of postprocedural hyperpigmentation, include procyanidins, tranexamic acid, and Polypodium leucotomos. Advances in Q-switched lasers, intense pulse light, fractional photothermolysis, and the advent of tretinoin peeling add to the clinician's armamentarium for treating hyperpigmentation.

Wound healing by topical application of antioxidant iron chelators: kojic acid and deferiprone

Kojic acid and deferiprone are iron chelators used for skin lightening and iron-overload treatment, respectively. As iron chelation and free radical scavenging are principal factors for wound healing, it was hypothesised that the local application of these compounds might accelerate wound healing in rats. Ointments of 3%, 6% and 9% of deferiprone and kojic acid were prepared and topical treatment was performed on in vivo wound models for 12 days twice in day for test and control groups. Topical treatment with 3%, 6% and 9% showed significant improvement in wound healing after 4 days (P < 0·001). Topical application of 3% and 6% deferiprone enhanced wound healing after 8 days (P < 0·026 and P < 0·001, respectively). Accelerated wound healing was seen using 3% and 6% deferiprone after 12 days (P = 0·003 and P < 0·001, respectively). DPPH scavenging assay was also performed to compare the antioxidant potencies of kojic acid and deferiprone. Deferiprone had more free radical scavenging power than kojic acid. Generally, deferiprone topical treatment, accelerated wound healing more than kojic acid because of its higher antioxidant and iron chelation abilities.