Interaction of vitamins C and E as better cosmeceuticals

Unveiling the mechanisms for the development of rosehip-based dermatological products: an updated review

Rosa spp., commonly known as rosehips, are wild plants that have traditionally been employed as herbal remedies for the treatment of a wide range of disorders. Rosehip is a storehouse of vitamins, including A, B complex, C, and E. Among phytonutrients, vitamin C is found in the highest amount. As rosehips contain significant levels of vitamin C, they are perfect candidates for the development of skincare formulations that can be effectively used in the treatment of different skin disorders (i.e., scarring, anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, melasma, and atopic dermatitis). This research focuses on the vitamin C content of several Rosa sp. by their botanical and geographic origins, which according to research studies are in the following order: R. rugosa > R. montana > R. canina > R. dumalis, with lower levels in R. villosa and R. arvensis, respectively. Among rosehip species, R. canina is the most extensively studied species which also displays significant amounts of bioactive compounds, but also antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities (e.g., against Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, S, epidermis, and S. haemolyticus). The investigation also highlights the use of rosehip extracts and oils to minimise the harmful effects of acne, which primarily affects teenagers in terms of their physical appearance (e.g., scarring, hyperpigmentation, imperfections), as well as their moral character (e.g., low self-confidence, bullying). Additionally, for higher vitamin C content from various rosehip species, the traditional (i.e., infusion, maceration, Soxhlet extraction) and contemporary extraction methods (i.e., supercritical fluid extraction, microwave-assisted, ultrasonic-assisted, and enzyme-assisted extractions) are highlighted, finally choosing the best extraction method for increased bioactive compounds, with emphasis on vitamin C content. Consequently, the current research focuses on assessing the potential of rosehip extracts as medicinal agents against various skin conditions, and the use of rosehip concentrations in skincare formulations (such as toner, serum, lotion, and sunscreen). Up-to-date studies have revealed that rosehip extracts are perfect candidates as topical application products in the form of nanoemulsions. Extensive in vivo studies have revealed that rosehip extracts also exhibit specific activities against multiple skin disorders (i.e., wound healing, collagen synthesis, atopic dermatitis, melasma, and anti-aging effects). Overall, with multiple dermatological actions and efficacies, rosehip extracts and oils are promising agents that require a thorough investigation of their functioning processes to enable their safe use in the skincare industry.

Antioxidants with proven efficacy and elastin-conserving vitamin C-A new approach to free radical defense

BACKGROUND

This paper describes the background research and validation related to the formulation of a novel antioxidant product. Two defined outcomes were sought. Firstly, a combined efficacy of antioxidant ingredients in quenching free oxygen radicals. Secondly, the investigation into whether a vitamin C derivative sodium salt was elastin conserving in contrast to current vitamin C/l-ascorbic acid variations that have been reported to negatively affect elastin constitution and regeneration.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A leading l-ascorbic acid antioxidant available on the market was compared with the experimental new product in two studies. In the first experiment, the products were compared to assess their antioxidant properties. The evaluated products TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANT 1 and TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANT 2 were applied to human skin cultures (25-30 mg/cm2 ) for a total of 72 h of treatment and exposed to oxidative stress. The generation of free radicals was semi-quantitatively assessed by measuring the fluorescence intensity of the deacetylation and oxidation of the probe dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFH-DA). In the second experiment, an ex vivo skin model (derived from patients undergoing facelift procedures) was used to assess elastin preservation. Three skin explants were topically subjected to the two formulations daily for 7 days. The skin was then prepared and fixed for immunofluorescent assessment after staining with CD44 and tropoelastin antibodies. Images were then analyzed using ImageJ.

RESULTS

A full description of the different components selected for the new formulation is presented. In the first study, the experimental formulation performed with absolute equivalence to the comparator in its radical quenching capacity; both showed extremely effective antioxidant function. In the second study, the comparator negatively affected the existing elastin with areas of breakdown and diminished staining. In contrast, the new formulation showed good conservation of healthy elastin in all sections demonstrating elastin preservation.

CONCLUSION

A new antioxidant formulation was carefully designed with multiple actives that show an equivalent antioxidant capacity to a leading product on the market. More importantly, the vitamin C component shows direct elastin conservation and improvement as opposed to the comparator, which had negative effects on elastin preservation. This is in keeping with little-known literature reports on vitamin C and its negative effects on elastin and validates the use of a sodium salt derivative, which appears to have protective effects on elastin. These findings support the overall regenerative extracellular matrix changes seen with TriHex® technology in other products.

Dermatological Management of Aged Skin

The subject of the work concerns the dermatological management of patients mainly with aged skin. The purpose of the work was to present the basic techniques and preparations which are performed by dermatologists in the treatment of aged skin. There are dermatological treatments related to the treatment of skin diseases and cosmetic treatments which are mainly related to skin care. In this work, the method of literature research was applied. On the basis of books and journal articles on dermatological and cosmetic procedures for aged skin, an analysis of treatment types was made. Then, the results of this analysis were presented in the paper under discussion. The paper presents information on the skin and its properties. The structure and functions of the skin, aging processes and characteristics of aged skin were discussed. Then, the possibilities of reducing the visible signs of skin aging through the use of invasive and non-invasive dermatological and cosmetological treatments were given, and the most important components of preparations used supportively in combating skin aging processes were discussed.

The Prospects of Algae-Derived Vitamins and Their Precursors for Sustainable Cosmeceuticals

Aquatic algae are a rich source of a wide range of bioproducts intended to compete for a sizable global market share. Thanks to the gradual shift towards the use of natural products, microalgae-derived bioactive compounds offer an ecofriendly and vegan option to the cosmeceutical sector, whose products aim to improve skin health but currently consist of mostly synthetic chemicals. In particular, algae-derived vitamins and their precursors are being explored and widely used in the cosmeceuticals industry as compounds that contain biologically active ingredients with therapeutic benefits. The present review highlights the current strategies for industrial production of an array of vitamins from algae for cosmeceutical applications. When compared to traditional plant sources, algae have been found to accumulate vitamins, such as A, B1, B2, B6, B12, C and E, in high concentrations. The purpose of this review is to provide context for the development of a green and sustainable algae-derived bioeconomy by summarizing and comparing the current market for vitamins and precursors derived from algae, as well as presenting novel strategies and key findings from the most recent research in this area. Emphasis is placed on novel biotechnological interventions that encompass genetic modifications, genetic engineering, and media development to enhance vitamin biosynthesis.

Ultraviolet Light Protection: Is It Really Enough?

Our current understanding of the pathogenesis of skin aging includes the role of ultraviolet light, visible light, infrared, pollution, cigarette smoke and other environmental exposures. The mechanism of action common to these exposures is the disruption of the cellular redox balance by the directly or indirectly increased formation of reactive oxygen species that overwhelm the intrinsic antioxidant defense system, resulting in an oxidative stress condition. Altered redox homeostasis triggers downstream pathways that contribute to tissue oxinflammation (cross-talk between inflammation and altered redox status) and accelerate skin aging. In addition, both ultraviolet light and pollution increase intracellular free iron that catalyzes reactive oxygen species generation via the Fenton reaction. This disruption of iron homeostasis within the cell further promotes oxidative stress and contributes to extrinsic skin aging. More recent studies have demonstrated that iron chelators can be used topically and can enhance the benefits of topically applied antioxidants. Thus, an updated, more comprehensive approach to environmental or atmospheric aging protection should include sun protective measures, broad spectrum sunscreens, antioxidants, chelating agents, and DNA repair enzymes.

Pullulan hydrogel-immobilized bacterial cellulose membranes with dual-release of vitamin C and E for wound dressing applications

Vitamin C&E (VtC&VtE)-loaded bilayer wound dressings were prepared using bacterial cellulose (BC) synthesized by Acetobacter species and pullulan (PUL). VtC-containing PUL hydrogels (100 μg/mL) were immobilized onto BC by crosslinking. BC/PUL-VtC was loaded with VtE (100 μM in ethanol) by immersion for 2 h. No delamination between the layers was observed via SEM. Despite the porous inner PUL side, the outer BC side exhibited nanofibrous morphology serving as barriers to prevent microorganism invasion. Equilibrium water content of BC/PUL was above 85 % due to the hydrogel characteristics of PUL side, suitable to absorb exudate in wound bed. PUL layer lost >90 % of its weight in simulated wound fluid and > 99 % in lysozyme solution within 14 days, mediating co-release of VtC&VtE. Thin BC side possessed adequate strength (⁓22 MPa) and strain (>30 %) to endure against tensile stress generated by bending on wound surface without rupture, whereas thick PUL side was flexible (>70 % strain) to fit into wound bed under compressive stress without causing harm. In vitro studies using L929 fibroblasts elucidated PUL side was anti-adhesive and removable. Synergistic effect of VtC&VtE on antioxidant activity, wound closure, and collagen synthesis was observed. Thus, BC/PUL-VtC/VtE hold promise as cheap and eco-friendly temporary wound dressing.

Open-Label Study to Evaluate the Efficacy of a Topical Anhydrous Formulation with 15% Pure Ascorbic Acid and Ginger as a Potent Antioxidant

Vitamin C is one of the naturally occurring antioxidants capable of reducing or preventing skin photoaging. Achieving a stable formulation with the optimal dose of ascorbic acid to ensure a biologically significant antioxidant effect is a challenge when developing cosmetic formulations. The objective of this study was to develop a stable formula in a non-aqueous media with 15% pure vitamin C supplemented with ginger and to study its efficacy, skin tolerance, and cosmetic assessment in 33 women. Vitamin C stability over time was determined via a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) technique versus an aqueous option. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) determination was quantified to provide antioxidant effect. A 56-day in vivo study was performed to evaluate skin luminosity and hyperpigmentation reduction. Skin acceptability was verified by a dermatologist. The HPLC studies demonstrated a high stability of the anhydrous formula compared to an aqueous option. The in vitro studies showed a reduction in ROS of 93% (p-value < 0.0001). In vivo, luminosity increased by 17% (p-value < 0.0001) and skin tone became 10% more uniform (p-value < 0.007). Moreover, very good skin tolerance was determined as the dermatologist did not determine any clinical signs, and the subjects did not report any feelings of discomfort. We were able to develop an anhydrous formula of pure vitamin C that combines very good stability, consumer acceptance, and skin tolerance with a high level of efficacy.

Focus on the Contribution of Oxidative Stress in Skin Aging

Skin aging is one of the most evident signs of human aging. Modification of the skin during the life span is characterized by fine lines and wrinkling, loss of elasticity and volume, laxity, rough-textured appearance, and pallor. In contrast, photoaged skin is associated with uneven pigmentation (age spot) and is markedly wrinkled. At the cellular and molecular level, it consists of multiple interconnected processes based on biochemical reactions, genetic programs, and occurrence of external stimulation. The principal cellular perturbation in the skin driving senescence is the alteration of oxidative balance. In chronological aging, reactive oxygen species (ROS) are produced mainly through cellular oxidative metabolism during adenosine triphosphate (ATP) generation from glucose and mitochondrial dysfunction, whereas in extrinsic aging, loss of redox equilibrium is caused by environmental factors, such as ultraviolet radiation, pollution, cigarette smoking, and inadequate nutrition. During the aging process, oxidative stress is attributed to both augmented ROS production and reduced levels of enzymatic and non-enzymatic protectors. Apart from the evident appearance of structural change, throughout aging, the skin gradually loses its natural functional characteristics and regenerative potential. With aging, the skin immune system also undergoes functional senescence manifested as a reduced ability to counteract infections and augmented frequency of autoimmune and neoplastic diseases. This review proposes an update on the role of oxidative stress in the appearance of the clinical manifestation of skin aging, as well as of the molecular mechanisms that underline this natural phenomenon sometimes accelerated by external factors.

Antibiotics-Free Compounds for Chronic Wound Healing

The rapid rise in the health burden associated with chronic wounds is of great concern to policymakers, academia, and industry. This could be attributed to the devastating implications of this condition, and specifically, chronic wounds which have been linked to invasive microbial infections affecting patients' quality of life. Unfortunately, antibiotics are not always helpful due to their poor penetration of bacterial biofilms and the emergence of antimicrobial resistance. Hence, there is an urgent need to explore antibiotics-free compounds/formulations with proven or potential antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound healing efficacy. The mechanism of antibiotics-free compounds is thought to include the disruption of the bacteria cell structure, preventing cell division, membrane porins, motility, and the formation of a biofilm. Furthermore, some of these compounds foster tissue regeneration by modulating growth factor expression. In this review article, the focus is placed on a number of non-antibiotic compounds possessing some of the aforementioned pharmacological and physiological activities. Specific interest is given to Aloevera, curcumin, cinnamaldehyde, polyhexanide, retinoids, ascorbate, tocochromanols, and chitosan. These compounds (when alone or in formulation with other biologically active molecules) could be a dependable alternative in the management or prevention of chronic wounds.

Two superior antioxidants: Ferulic acid and ascorbic acid in reducing signs of photoaging-A split-face comparative study

The assessment of the signs of photoaging in mexametric (melanin and erythema index), corneometric (hydration level), and cutometric (elasticity) examination after the treatment with ascorbic acid and ferulic acid. This study was conducted in a group of 20 women aged 39-61 (mean age 54), with Fitzpatrick skin types II and III. The study included a series of eight treatments performed once a week. Two layers of peeling, based on 14% ferulic acid (left half of the face) and 12% l-ascorbic acid serum (right half of the face) were applied. To determine skin parameters: moisture, elasticity, melanin level, and erythema intensity, the Multi Probe Adapter Systems (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) were used. Additionally, before and after the series of treatments, photographs were taken with the standardized photographic system Fotomedicus (Elfo®). The results of mexametric measurement for melanin level and erythema intensity were statistically significant (p < 0.0001) for both acids. Slightly greater lightening of the skin was demonstrated for ascorbic acid. The results of corneometric measurement of hydration level for ferulic acid and ascorbic acid were both statistically significant (p < 0.0001). First beneficial changes in improved elasticity could be observed as early as after 8 weeks but the increase in flexibility grew with time (after 12 weeks). These changes affected both acids and all measurement points. The changes in parameters were highly statistically significant (p < 0.0001). Based on the conducted research, it is not possible to state which of the tested acids is more effective in reducing the symptoms of photoaging. Both acids (ascorbic and ferulic), which have a high antioxidant potential, affect the measurable parameters of the skin: pigmentation (melanin index), erythema (erythema index), skin hydration, and elasticity.

Quality Control of Vitamins A and E and Coenzyme Q10 in Commercial Anti-Ageing Cosmetic Products

Vitamins A and E and coenzyme Q10 are common ingredients in anti-ageing cosmetic products. Within this study, we evaluated the quality of commercial cosmetics with vitamin A (35 products), vitamin E (49 products), and coenzyme Q10 (27 products) by using validated HPLC–UV methods. Vitamin A was determined as retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, β carotene, and hydroxypinacolone retinoate in concentrations ranging from 950 ng/g to 19 mg/g. Total vitamin A contents, expressed with retinol equivalents, ranged from 160 ng/g to 19 mg/g, and were above the maximum concentration recommended by the SCCS in six of the 35 tested cosmetics. The content-related quality control of 10 cosmetics with specified vitamin A content revealed significant deviations (between 0% and 400%) of the label claim. Vitamin E was determined as both tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate in concentrations between 8.5 µg/g and 16 mg/g. Coenzyme Q10 was determined as ubiquinone in 24 tested cosmetics, which labelled it, in concentrations between 4.2 µg/g and 100 µg/g. Labelling irregularities were observed in all three active compound groups, resulting in a significant share (42%) of improperly labelled cosmetic products. The results of this study reveal the need for stricter cosmetics regulation and highlight the importance of their quality control, especially by evaluating the contents of the active compounds, in their efficacy and safety assurance.

Research Progress in Enzymatic Synthesis of Vitamin E Ester Derivatives

Vitamin E is easily oxidized by light, air, oxidizing agents and heat, limiting its application in many ways. Compared to vitamin E, vitamin E ester derivatives exhibit improved stability and a stronger antioxidant capacity, and even gain new biological functions. In recent years, enzymatic synthesis of vitamin E ester derivatives has received increasing attention due to its environmental friendliness, high catalytic efficiency, and inherent selectivity. This paper reviews the related progress of lipase-mediated preparation of vitamin E ester derivatives. The function of different vitamin E ester derivatives, and the main factors influencing the enzymatic acylation process, including enzyme species, acyl donor and acceptor, reaction media and water activity, are summarized in this paper. Finally, the perspective of lipase-catalyzed synthesis of vitamin E ester derivatives is also discussed.

Synergistic Antimicrobial Activity of Supplemented Medical-Grade Honey against Pseudomonas aeruginosa Biofilm Formation and Eradication

Biofilms hinder wound healing. Medical-grade honey (MGH) is a promising therapy because of its broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and the lack of risk for resistance. This study investigated the inhibitory and eradicative activity against multidrug-resistant Pseudomonas aeruginosa biofilms by different established MGH-based wound care formulations. Six different natural wound care products (Medihoney, Revamil, Mebo, Melladerm, L-Mesitran Ointment, and L-Mesitran Soft) were tested in vitro. Most of them contain MGH only, whereas some were supplemented. L-Mesitran Soft demonstrated the most potent antimicrobial activity (6.08-log inhibition and 3.18-log eradication). Other formulations ranged between 0.89-log and 4.80-log inhibition and 0.65-log and 1.66-log eradication. Therefore, the contribution of different ingredients of L-Mesitran Soft was investigated in more detail. The activity of the same batch of raw MGH (1.38-log inhibition and 2.35-log eradication), vitamins C and E (0.95-log inhibition and 0.94-log eradication), and all ingredients except MGH (1.69-log inhibition and 0.75-log eradication) clearly support a synergistic activity of components within the L-Mesitran Soft formulation. Several presented clinical cases illustrate its clinical antimicrobial efficacy against Pseudomonas aeruginosa biofilms. In conclusion, MGH is a potent treatment for Pseudomonas biofilms. L-Mesitran Soft has the strongest antimicrobial activity, which is likely due to the synergistic activity mediated by its supplements.

A serum containing vitamins C & E and a matrix-repair tripeptide reduces facial signs of aging as evidenced by Primos® analysis and frequently repeated auto-perception

Background

Allegations on the benefits of incorporating vitamin C, vitamin E, and combinations thereof in topical skincare formulations are mostly based on in vitro and ex vivo experiments and/or limited protocols of specific stress conditions (pollution, UV exposure, laser irradiation,…).

Objective

To evaluate the instrumentally measurable effects and quantitative consumer perceptions of a protective and reparative serum on a panel of volunteers under normal nonstressed conditions of use, employing FOITS technology and innovative self‐assessment methods.

Method

In an open‐label study women of ≥40 years with visible signs of photoaging applied a serum comprising l‐ascorbic acid USP (15% w/v), tocopheryl acetate USP, and 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38 to the face once daily for 56 days. Skin roughness and isotropy changes were evaluated on days 0, 28, and 56, visual instrumental evaluation of skin‐tone parameters was assessed on days 0 and 56. Subjects completed self‐assessment questionnaires every third day of the trial period for radiance, homogeneity, and wrinkle appearance.

Results

Skin‐roughness parameters decreased significantly by 8%‐9% (P < .05) and subjects experienced a significant increase in skin isotropy (P < .05). Photographic analysis revealed significant improvements in skin tone, with a 9% decrease in redness and 8% increase in homogeneity (P < .0001 for both), in excellent agreement with subjects' perception of significant improvements of radiance, complexion, and wrinkles.

Conclusion

The study confirms statistically significant correlation between objectively measured and quantitative subjectively perceived benefits of the bespoke serum containing antioxidants and a matrix‐restoring peptide.

Reduction of senescence-associated beta-galactosidase activity by vitamin E in human fibroblasts depends on subjects' age and cell passage number

Cell senescence is due to the permanent cell cycle arrest that occurs as a result of the inherent limited replicative capacity toward the Hayflick limit (replicative senescence), or in response to various stressors (stress-induced premature senescence, SIPS). With the acquisition of the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), cells release several molecules (cytokines, proteases, lipids), and express the senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-Gal). Here we tested whether vitamin E affects SA-β-Gal in an in vitro model of cell ageing. Skin fibroblasts from human subjects of different age (1, 13, 29, 59, and 88 years old) were cultured until they reached replicative senescence. At different passages (Passages 2, 9, 13, and 16), these cells were treated with vitamin E for 24 hr. Vitamin E reduced SA-β-Gal in all cells at passage 16, but at earlier passage numbers it reduced SA-β-Gal only in cells isolated from the oldest subjects. Therefore, short time treatment with vitamin E decreases SA-β-Gal in cells both from young and old subjects when reaching replicative senescence; but in cells isolated from older subjects, a decrease in SA-β-Gal by vitamin E occurs also at earlier passage numbers. The possible role of downregulation of CD36 by vitamin E, a scavenger receptor essential for initiation of senescence and SASP, is discussed.

Comparative physicochemical stability and clinical anti-wrinkle efficacy of transdermal emulgel preparations of 5% sodium ascorbyl phosphate and or ascorbic acid on human volunteers

OBJECTIVES

Antioxidant containing cosmeceuticals are commonly prescribed products in treating wrinkles and revitalizing the skin. The aim of this study was the comparative evaluation of physicochemical stability and clinical anti-wrinkle efficacy of transdermal emulgel preparations of sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) and ascorbic acid (AA) on human volunteers.

METHODS

Emulgel preparations containing 5% of (SAP) and or (AA) were prepared. HPLC analysis was performed for stability evaluations. Clinical anti-wrinkle efficacy of the formulations was examined on human healthy volunteers in crow's feet area. Elasticity and digital images were recorded before and after treatment.

RESULTS

Formulations with added antioxidants and kept in the refrigerator exhibited better stability characteristics. Two-sided blind study and placebo-controlled study showed that both actives were effective in wrinkles depth reduction and also elasticity enhancement but statistically significant difference in the efficacy of the products was not observed.

CONCLUSION

Formulations containing (AA) and or (SAP) both improved elasticity and wrinkles of the skin almost by the same extent, and it is necessary to add antioxidant stabilizing agents to both preparations to reach a desired stability.

Skin Health from the Inside Out

The skin is the main interface between the body and the environment, providing a biological barrier against an array of chemical and physical pollutants (e.g., ultraviolet light, ozone, etc.). Exposure of the skin to these outdoor stressors generates reactive oxygen species (ROS), which can overwhelm the skin's endogenous defense systems (e.g., catalase, vitamins C and E, etc.), resulting in premature skin aging due to the induction of DNA damage, mitochondrial damage, lipid peroxidation, activation of inflammatory signaling pathways, and formation of protein adducts. In this review, we discuss how topical application of antioxidants, including vitamins C and E, carotenoids, resveratrol, and pycnogenol, can be combined with dietary supplementation of these antioxidant compounds in addition to probiotics and essential minerals to protect against outdoor stressor-induced skin damage, including the damage associated with aging.

In vitro antimicrobial efficacy of two medical grade honey formulations against common high-risk meticillin-resistant staphylococci and Pseudomonas spp. pathogens

BACKGROUND

Antimicrobial resistance is a problem in human and animal healthcare. Honey may be used for its wound healing properties and antimicrobial effects.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the antimicrobial activity of two commercially available medical grade honeys (MGHs) against Staphylococcus spp. and Pseudomonas spp. isolates.

METHODS AND MATERIALS

Two formulations, MGH1 (40% w/v honey) and MGH2 (80% w/v Manuka honey), were tested in vitro for minimal inhibitory concentrations (MIC) and minimal bactericidal concentrations (MBC) against 11 Staphylococcus and 11 Pseudomonas isolates at low [1.5 × 10⁴  colony forming units (cfu)/well] and high (1.5 × 10⁶  cfu/well) concentrations of inoculum, representing systemic and cutaneous bacterial loads during infection, respectively.

RESULTS

MGH2 showed a lower MIC against staphylococci than MGH1, although this was not statistically significant. MGH1 had stronger bactericidal effects against staphylococci than MGH2, although this effect was statistically significant only at the higher bacterial concentration (P < 0.01). For Pseudomonas spp., MGH1 had significantly higher antimicrobial activity (both MIC and MBC) than MGH2 against all isolates tested and at both bacterial concentrations (P < 0.05).

CONCLUSIONS AND CLINICAL IMPORTANCE

Both MGHs were effective in vitro against common cutaneous pathogens including meticillin-resistant staphylococci and Pseudomonas species. The higher efficacy of the MGH1 formulation against Pseudomonas and its consistent effects against staphylococci, while containing only half of the amount of honey compared to MGH2, invites further investigation of the mechanisms and clinical applications of MGH1.

Ascorbic acid derivative-loaded modified aspasomes: formulation, in vitro, ex vivo and clinical evaluation for melasma treatment

Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic acid) has many favourable effects on the skin such as antioxidant, anti-aging and whitening effects. Its instability and low permeability limit its pharmaceutical use in cosmetic and dermatological products. Instead, Mg ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), an ascorbic acid derivative, has the same effect with higher stability is being used. In this work, a vesicular system, aspasomes, containing MAP was developed and evaluated. Aspasomes are multilayered vesicles formed by amphiphiles molecules, Ascorbyl palmitate (ASP), in combination with cholesterol and charged lipids for drug encapsulation. Here, we investigated the use of lecithin instead of the charged lipid dicetyl phosphate for aspasomes development. Nine formulations were prepared and evaluated for their entrapment efficiency, particle size, polydispersity index (PDI) and zeta potential. Their entrapment efficiency ranged from 33.00 ± 2.27 to 95.18 ± 1.06, while their particle size was from 373.34 ± 60.85 to 464.37 ± 93.46 nm with acceptable PDI (from 0.212 ± 0.068 to 0.351 ± 0.061) and zeta potential (from -37.52 ± 2.42 to -50.36 ± 1.82). Three formulations were selected and evaluated for their drug release, permeation and retention into skin. One formulation was selected to be formulated as aspasomal topical cream and gel. The aspasomal cream was found to have enhanced drug permeation and skin retention over the aspasomal gel as well as the aspasomes formulation. MAP aspasomal cream was evaluated clinically as an effective treatment for melasma against 15% trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and the results recorded that the aspasomal cream showed the greatest degree of improvement regarding the hemi-MASI scores with 35% of patients rating it as excellent treatment. The study showed that MAP aspasomal cream can be considered a novel treatment of melasma which is free of side effects. Its efficacy as a monotherapy is superior to that of chemical peeling using 15% TCA.

A case of exogenous ochronosis associated with hydroxychloroquine

Exogenous ochronosis is characterized by hyperpigmented skin lesions that arise in association with local suppression of homogentisic acid oxidase enzyme. Although it generally develops in association with topical application of chemical agents, it can occasionally develop in association with antimalarial drugs. Here we present the case of a patient with rheumatoid arthritis who developed hyperpigmentation on the face and neck regions during hydroxychloroquine treatment. Hydroxychloroquine is being widely used in rheumatology practice, and cutaneous hyperpigmentation may develop as an adverse effect. In the present case, we emphasize the potential underlying mechanisms through which it may cause cutaneous hyperpigmentation and determine the clinical and histopathological findings of exogenous ochronosis.

Melanoma Chemoprevention: Current Status and Future Prospects

The incidence of skin cancers, both nonmelanoma and melanoma, is increasing in the United States. The ultraviolet radiation, mainly from sun, is considered the major cause for these neoplasms. While nonmelanoma skin cancers are far more numerous, melanoma remains the most challenging. This is because melanoma can become extremely aggressive and its incidence is increasing worldwide due to lack of effective early detection, as well as disease recurrence, following both surgery and chemotherapy. Therefore, in addition to better treatment options, newer means are required to prevent melanomas from developing. Chemoprevention is a reasonable cost-effective approach to prevent carcinogenesis by inhibiting the processes of tumor initiation, promotion and progression. Melanoma is a progressive disease, which makes it very suitable for chemopreventive interventions, by targeting the processes and molecular pathways involved in the progression of melanoma. This review discusses the roles of various chemopreventive agents such as NSAIDs, statins, vitamins and dietary agents in melanoma and highlights current advancements and our perspective on future of melanoma chemoprevention. Although considerable preclinical data suggest that melanoma may be prevented or delayed by a numerous chemopreventive agents, we realize there are insufficient clinical studies evaluating their efficacy and long-term safety for human use.

Exogenous Ochronosis

Exogenous ochronosis (EO) is a cutaneous disorder characterized by blue-black pigmentation resulting as a complication of long-term application of skin-lightening creams containing hydroquinone but may also occur due to topical contact with phenol or resorcinol in dark-skinned individuals. It can also occur following the use of systemic antimalarials such as quinine. EO is clinically and histologically similar to its endogenous counterpart viz., alkaptonuria, which, however, exhibits systemic effects and is an inherited disorder. Dermoscopy and in vivo skin reflectance confocal microscopy are noninvasive in vivo diagnostic tools. It is very difficult to treat EO, a cosmetically disfiguring and troubling disorder with disappointing treatment options.

Phosphatidylcholine liposomes as carriers to improve topical ascorbic acid treatment of skin disorders

Liposomes have been intensively investigated as carriers for different applications in dermatology and cosmetics. Ascorbic acid has potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties preventing photodamage of keratinocytes; however, due to its instability and low skin penetration, an appropriate carrier is mandatory to obtain desirable efficacy. The present work investigates the ability of a specific ascorbate phosphatidylcholine (PC) liposome to overcome the barrier of the stratum corneum and deliver the active agent into the dermis to prevent photodamage. Abdominal skin from ten patients was used. Penetration of PC liposomes was tested ex vivo in whole skin, epidermis, and dermis by means of fluorescein and sodium ascorbate. Histology and Franz diffusion cells were used to monitor the percutaneous absorption. Ultraviolet (UV)-high performance liquid chromatography was used to analyze diffusion of sodium ascorbate through the different skin layers, while spectrofluorimetry and fluorescent microscopy were used for fluorescein monitoring. UVA/UVB irradiation of whole skin was applied to analyze the antioxidant capacity by Trolox assay and anti-inflammatory effects by tumor necrosis factor alpha and interleukin 1 beta enzyme-linked immunoassay. PC liposomal formulation improved skin penetration of fluorescein and ascorbate. Fluorescein PC liposomes showed better diffusion through epidermis than dermis while ascorbate liposomes showed better diffusion through the dermis than the epidermis. Ascorbate PC liposomes showed preventive antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties on whole human skin irradiated with UVA/UVB. In summary, ascorbate PC liposomes penetrate through the epidermis and allow nonstable hydrophilic active ingredients reach epidermis and dermis preventing skin photodamage.

Role of micronutrients in skin health and function

Skin is the first line of defense for protecting our bodies against external perturbations, including ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, mechanical/chemical stress, and bacterial infection. Nutrition is one of many factors required for the maintenance of overall skin health. An impaired nutritional status alters the structural integrity and biological function of skin, resulting in an abnormal skin barrier. In particular, the importance of micronutrients (such as certain vitamins and minerals) for skin health has been highlighted in cell culture, animal, and clinical studies. These micronutrients are employed not only as active compounds in therapeutic agents for treating certain skin diseases, but also as ingredients in cosmetic products. Here, the author describes the barrier function of the skin and the general nutritional requirements for skin health. The goal of this review is to discuss the potential roles and current knowledge of selected micronutrients in skin health and function.

Modified cellulose nanocrystal for vitamin C delivery

Cellulose nanocrystal grafted with chitosan oligosaccharide (CNC-CSOS) was used to encapsulate vitamin C and prepare CNCS/VC complexes using tripolyphosphte via ionic complexation. The stability of vitamin C and the antioxidant activity of the CNCS/VC complexes were elucidated. The formation of the complex was confirmed using DSC and UV-vis spectrophotometry, and TEM was used to study the morphology of the complexes. The encapsulation efficiency of vitamin C at pH 3 and 5 was 71.6% ± 6.8 and 91.0 ± 1.0, respectively. Strong exothermic peaks observed in isothermal titration calorimetric (ITC) studies at pH 5 could be attributed to additional electrostatic interactions between CNC-CSOS and vitamin C at pH 5. The in vitro release of vitamin C from CNCS/VC complexes showed a sustained release of up to 20 days. The vitamin C released from CNCS/VC complex displayed higher stability compared with the control vitamin C solution, and this was also confirmed from the ITC thermograms. CNC-CSOS possessed a higher scavenging activity and faster antioxidant activity compared with its precursors, i.e., oxidized CNC and CSOS and their physical mixtures. Complexing vitamin C into CNC-CSOS particles yielded a dynamic antioxidant agent, where the vitamin C is released over time and displayed sustained antioxidant properties. Therefore, CNCS/VC can potentially be used in cosmeceutical applications as topical formulations.

Anti-aging cosmetics: facts and controversies

The authors review ageing in its extrinsic and intrinsic mechanisms, as well as the therapies available for improving its effects, and present some of the facts and controversies related to anti-aging cosmetics.

Vitamin C in dermatology

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant drug that can be used topically in dermatology to treat and prevent changes associated with photoageing. It can also be used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Because it is unstable and difficult to deliver into the dermis in the optimum dosage, research is being directed to find stable compounds of Vitamin C and newer methods of delivery of Vitamin C into the dermis.

Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

Topically applied antioxidants exert their benefits by offering protection from damaging free radicals and over-the-counter cosmeceuticals incorporating antioxidants are among the most popular anti-aging products available. One potent antioxidant of particular note, vitamin C, has been extensively utilized because it possesses a variety of other cutaneous benefits including photoprotection from UV A & B, neocollagenesis, inhibition of melanogenesis and improvement of a variety of inflammatory skin disorders. However, the instability of this water-soluble vitamin, together with difficulties associated with its topical delivery, has presented issues for the formulation chemist. This article reviews the scientific data and clinical studies that underpin the stability, percutaneous absorption, and cutaneous effects of vitamin C together with its commonly utilized, commercially available derivatives.

A novel approach to structural facial volume replacement

Improved understanding of the anatomy and physiology of the aging face has laid the foundation for adopting an earlier and more comprehensive approach to facial rejuvenation, shifting the focus from individual wrinkle treatment and lift procedures to a holistic paradigm that considers the entire face and its structural framework. This article presents an overview of a comprehensive method to address facial aging. The key components to the reported strategy for improving facial cosmesis include, in addition to augmentation of volume loss, protection with sunscreens and antioxidants; promotion of epidermal cell turnover with techniques such as superficial chemical peels; microlaser peels and microdermabrasion; collagen stimulation and remodeling via light, ultrasound, or radiofrequency (RF)-based methods; and muscle control with botulinum toxin. For the treatment of wrinkles and for the augmentation of pan-facial dermal lipoatrophy, several types of fillers and volumizers including hyaluronic acid (HA), autologous fat, and calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) or injectable poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA) are available. A novel bimodal, trivector technique to restore structural facial volume loss that combines supraperiosteal depot injections of volume-depleted fat pads and dermal/subcutaneous injections for panfacial lipoatrophy with PLLA is presented. The combination of treatments with fillers; toxins; light-, sound-, and RF-based technologies; and surgical procedures may help to forestall the facial aging process and provide more natural results than are possible with any of these techniques alone.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE V

This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266 .

p66Shc aging protein in control of fibroblasts cell fate

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are wieldy accepted as one of the main factors of the aging process. These highly reactive compounds modify nucleic acids, proteins and lipids and affect the functionality of mitochondria in the first case and ultimately of the cell. Any agent or genetic modification that affects ROS production and detoxification can be expected to influence longevity. On the other hand, genetic manipulations leading to increased longevity can be expected to involve cellular changes that affect ROS metabolism. The 66-kDa isoform of the growth factor adaptor Shc (p66Shc) has been recognized as a relevant factor to the oxygen radical theory of aging. The most recent data indicate that p66Shc protein regulates life span in mammals and its phosphorylation on serine 36 is important for the initiation of cell death upon oxidative stress. Moreover, there is strong evidence that apart from aging, p66Shc may be implicated in many oxidative stress-associated pathologies, such as diabetes, mitochondrial and neurodegenerative disorders and tumorigenesis. This article summarizes recent knowledge about the role of p66Shc in aging and senescence and how this protein can influence ROS production and detoxification, focusing on studies performed on skin and skin fibroblasts.

Vitamins and cutaneous wound healing

BACKGROUND

Vitamins have long been thought to modulate the various stages of wound healing through a variety of proposed mechanisms. Our goal was to investigate relevant studies examining the role of different vitamins in wound healing.

METHODS

MEDLINE, Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, and Google Scholar were searched for basic science and clinical studies examining the role of vitamins as adjuncts in wound healing.

RESULTS

Mechanisms of action for each of the vitamins are reviewed. It was suggested by many of the studies that the major vitamins A, C, E, D, K, and B have demonstrated utility as adjuncts in wound care in basic science and clinical trials.

CONCLUSION

There is a vast amount of literature on the effect of vitamins on wound healing at the basic science level. Further understanding and controlled trials will help better understand how to utilize vitamins in wound care.

DECLARATION OF INTEREST

None.

Main approaches for delivering antioxidant vitamins through the skin to prevent skin ageing

INTRODUCTION

One of the major contributions to skin photoageing and diseases is oxidative stress, caused by UV radiation inducing reactive oxygen and nitrogen species. Successful prophylaxis and therapy would necessitate control of the oxidant/antioxidant balance at the affected site, which can be achieved through the external supply of endogenous antioxidants.

AREAS COVERED

This review discusses possible strategies for dermal delivery of the antioxidant vitamins E and C, as oral supplementation has proved insufficient. These antioxidants have low skin bioavailability, owing to their poor solubility, inefficient skin permeability, or instability during storage. These drawbacks can be overcome by various approaches, such as chemical modification of the vitamins and the use of new colloidal drug delivery systems. New knowledge is included about the importance of: enhancing the endogenous skin antioxidant defense through external supply; the balance between various skin antioxidants; factors that can improve the skin bioavailability of antioxidants; and new delivery systems, such as microemulsions, used to deliver vitamins C and E into the skin simultaneously.

EXPERT OPINION

A promising strategy for enhancing skin protection from oxidative stress is to support the endogenous antioxidant system, with antioxidants containing products that are normally present in the skin.

Permeation enhancement of ascorbic acid by self-dissolving micropile array tip through rat skin

Ascorbic acid (AA) loaded self-dissolving micropiles (SDMP) were prepared using chondroitin sulfate as the base for the percutaneous administration of AA. AA solution was added to dense solution of chondroitin solution, glue, and array tip, 1.0 cm(2), containing 100 SDMPs of which length was 500 microm and basal diameter was 300 microm, were prepared. Two kinds of AA array tips containing 1344.2+/-1.7 microg (high content ones) and 638.7+/-4.3 microg (low content ones) were used. In vitro dissolution study showed that more than 90% of AA were released from both SDMP array tips within 5 min. Stability experiment showed that 99.2-99.4% of AA was detected in SDMP array tips when stored at 23 degrees C for 1 week. When in vitro permeation experiments were performed after AA SDMP array was inserted to the isolated rat abdominal skin, extremely high amounts of AA, 1285.3+/-369.0 microg (95.3%) for high content SDMP tip and 405.6+/-84.3 microg (65.8%) for low content SDMP tip, were permeated for 6 h into the receptor compartment due to the break down of the skin barrier function. When AA SDMP array tip was administered to the rat skin under anesthetized condition with the different contact times, 10, 20 and 30 min, the permeated amount of AA was dependent on both the AA content in SDMP array tips and the contact time. When AA SDMP was contact to the skin for 30 min, permeated amounts of AA were 146.8+/-22.9 microg (10.9%) for high content-SDMP tip and 61.2+/-18.2 microg (9.6%) for low content SDMP tip. These results suggest the usefulness of SDMP array tip for the percutaneous absorption of AA.