Plant polyphenols and human skin: friends or foes

New Insights Concerning Phytophotodermatitis Induced by Phototoxic Plants

The present review explores the underlying mechanisms of phytophotodermatitis, a non-immunologic skin reaction triggered by certain plants followed by exposure to ultraviolet radiation emitted by sunlight. Recent research has advanced our understanding of the pathophysiology of phytophotodermatitis, highlighting the interaction between plant-derived photosensitizing compounds (e.g., furanocoumarins and psoralens) and ultraviolet light leading to skin damage (e.g., erythema, fluid blisters, edema, and hyperpigmentation), identifying these compounds as key contributors to the phototoxic reactions causing phytophotodermatitis. Progress in understanding the molecular pathways involved in the skin's response to these compounds has opened avenues for identifying potential therapeutic targets suitable for the management and prevention of this condition. The review emphasizes the importance of identifying the most common phototoxic plant families (e.g., Apiaceae, Rutaceae, and Moraceae) and plant species (e.g., Heracleum mantegazzianum, Ruta graveolens, Ficus carica, and Pastinaca sativa), as well as the specific phytochemical compounds responsible for inducing phytophototoxicity (e.g., limes containing furocoumarin have been linked to lime-induced photodermatitis), underscoring the significance of recognizing the dangerous plant sources. Moreover, the most used approaches and tests for accurate diagnosis such as patch testing, Wood's lamp examination, or skin biopsy are presented. Additionally, preventive measures such as adequate clothing (e.g., long-sleeved garments and gloves) and treatment strategies based on the current knowledge of phytophotodermatitis including topical and systemic therapies are discussed. Overall, the review consolidates recent findings in the field, covering a diverse array of phototoxic compounds in plants, the mechanisms by which they trigger skin reactions, and the implications for clinical management. By synthesizing these insights, we provide a comprehensive understanding of phytophotodermatitis, providing valuable information for both healthcare professionals and researchers working to address this condition.

An extensive review on phenolic compounds and their potential estrogenic properties on skin physiology

Polyphenolic compounds constitute a diverse group of natural components commonly occurring in various plant species, known for their potential to exert both beneficial and detrimental effects. Additionally, these polyphenols have also been implicated as endocrine-disrupting (ED) chemicals, raising concerns about their widespread use in the cosmetics industry. In this comprehensive review, we focus on the body of literature pertaining to the estrogenic properties of ED chemicals, with a particular emphasis on the interaction of isoflavones with estrogen receptors. Within this review, we aim to elucidate the multifaceted roles and effects of polyphenols on the skin, exploring their potential benefits as well as their capacity to act as ED agents. By delving into this intricate subject matter, we intend to provoke thoughtful consideration, effectively opening a Pandora's box of questions for the reader to ponder. Ultimately, we invite the reader to contemplate whether polyphenols should be regarded as friends or foes in the realm of skincare and endocrine disruption.

A bio-polymeric scaffold incorporated with p-Coumaric acid enhances diabetic wound healing by modulating MMP-9 and TGF-β3 expression

Diabetic wounds lead to severe health complications as the tissue regeneration process fails predominantly due to prolonged inflammation, reactive oxygen species generation, and imbalance in collagen turnover. Modern wound dressings that can aid in wound management thus improving the public healthcare system, is the present need. This study aims to fabricate an effective wound dressing using plant polyphenol to treat chronic wounds as polyphenols possess excellent wound-healing ability. The collagen scaffold enriched with the polyphenol, p-Coumaric acid, was fabricated by freeze-drying method (Col-OxP3-Ca) and examined for its wound-healing ability by in vitro and in vivo analyses. Col-OxP3-Ca scaffold exhibited 85% antioxidant activity, biocompatibility in fibroblast cells, enhanced cell proliferation and migration rate. The diabetic excision wound treated with Col-OxP3-Ca scaffold healed within 21 days and a well-developed epidermis, blood vessels, hair follicle formation, fewer inflammatory cells and collagen deposition was observed in histological analysis. The immunohistochemical results depicted the enhanced expression of TGF-β3 and lessened expression of the MMP-9 in Col-OxP3-Ca scaffold treatment group. p-Coumaric acid shortened the inflammatory stage, enhanced angiogenesis, tissue regeneration and balanced collagen turnover during healing. From this, we can accomplish that the Col-OxP3-Ca wound dressing could be an outstanding alternative to treat chronic wounds.

Current Insights into the Formulation and Delivery of Therapeutic and Cosmeceutical Agents for Aging Skin

“Successful aging” counters the traditional idea of aging as a disease and is increasingly equated with minimizing age signs on the skin, face, and body. From this stems the interest in preventative aesthetic dermatology that might help with the healthy aging of skin, help treat or prevent certain cutaneous disorders, such as skin cancer, and help delay skin aging by combining local and systemic methods of therapy, instrumental devices, and invasive procedures. This review will discuss the main mechanisms of skin aging and the potential mechanisms of action for commercial products already on the market, highlighting the issues related to the permeation of the skin from different classes of compounds, the site of action, and the techniques employed to overcome aging. The purpose is to give an overall perspective on the main challenges in formulation development, especially nanoparticle formulations, which aims to defeat or slow down skin aging, and to highlight new market segments, such as matrikines and matrikine-like peptides. In conclusion, by applying enabling technologies such as those delivery systems outlined here, existing agents can be repurposed or fine-tuned, and traditional but unproven treatments can be optimized for efficacious dosing and safety.

Investigation on wound healing effect of Mediterranean medicinal plants and some related phenolic compounds: A review

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The human skin constitutes a biological barrier against external stress and wounds can reduce the role of its physiological structure. In medical sciences, wounds are considered a major problem that requires urgent intervention. For centuries, medicinal plants have been used in the Mediterranean countries for many purposes and against wounds.

AIM OF THIS REVIEW

Provides an outlook on the Mediterranean medicinal plants used in wound healing. Furthermore, the wound healing effect of polyphenolic compounds and their chemical structures are also summarized. Moreover, we discussed the wound healing process, the structure of the skin, and the current therapies in wound healing.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The search was performed in several databases such as ScienceDirect, PubMed, Google Scholar, Scopus, and Web of Science. The following Keywords were used individually and/or in combination: the Mediterranean, wound healing, medicinal plants, phenolic compounds, composition, flavonoid, tannin.

RESULTS

The wound healing process is distinguished by four phases, which are respectively, hemostasis, inflammation, proliferation, and remodeling. The Mediterranean medicinal plants are widely used in the treatment of wounds. The finding showed that eighty-nine species belonging to forty families were evaluated for their wound-healing effect in this area. The Asteraceae family was the most reported family with 12 species followed by Lamiaceae (11 species). Tunisia, Egypt, Morocco, and Algeria were the countries where these plants are frequently used in wound healing. In addition to medicinal plants, results showed that nineteen phenolic compounds from different classes are used in wound treatment. Tyrosol, hydroxytyrosol, curcumin, luteolin, chrysin, rutin, kaempferol, quercetin, icariin, morin, epigallocatechin gallate, taxifolin, silymarin, hesperidin, naringin, isoliquiritin, puerarin, genistein, and daidzein were the main compounds that showed wound-healing effect.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, medicinal plants and polyphenolic compounds provide therapeutic evidence in wound healing and for the development of new drugs in this field.

Inhibition of Advanced Glycation End Product Formation in Rat Tail Tendons by Polydatin and p-Coumaric acid: an In Vitro Study

Advanced glycation end products (AGEs) formed through non-enzymatic glycosylation between a protein and sugar molecule are highly harmful to the human body. In hyperglycemic patients, AGE formation is more due to high glucose circulating in the blood, causing inter and intra molecular cross-linking of collagen leading to reduction of collagen elasticity. This cross-linked collagen develops resistance to matrix metalloproteinases leading to impaired collagen turnover. The aim of this work is to determine the anti-glycation effects of polydatin and p-coumaric acid in preventing collagen cross-linking by incubating rat tail tendons (RTTs) as collagen source in high glucose concentration (50 mM) for a week. The RTTs were then characterized for tensile strength, cross-linking efficiency, circular dichroism spectrometry, collagen, glucose, and aldehyde contents. Electrophoresis was carried out to evaluate the level of cross-linking in collagen and the results confirmed the ability of the drugs in preventing complex intermolecular cross-link formation induced by non-enzymatic glycosylation. CD data showed alteration in the secondary structure of collagen where AGE formation had occurred. More collagen was extracted by pepsin from RTTs treated with glucose alone (6.88 mg/10 mg tendon) when compared with drug-treated groups (4.25, 2.56 mg/10 mg tendon for polydatin and p-coumaric acid, respectively). Tensile strength (20.66% and 18.95%), cross-linking percentage (32.5% and 29.84%), and glucose content (2.3 and 1.8 mg/100 mg) of drug-treated groups were similar to the positive control (19.07%, 30.13%, and 2.61 mg/100 mg) thus proving the anti-glycation potential of the drugs. Hence, both polydatin and p-coumaric acid could play a pivotal role in preventing AGE formation.

Antioxidant and Pro-Oxidant Capacities as Mechanisms of Photoprotection of Olive Polyphenols on UVA-Damaged Human Keratinocytes

A wide variety of polyphenols are reported to have considerable antioxidant and skin photoprotective effects, although the mechanisms of action are not fully known. Environmentally friendly and inexpensive sources of natural bioactive compounds, such as olive mill wastewater (OMWW), the by-product of olive-oil processing, can be considered an economic source of bioactive polyphenols, with a range of biological activities, useful as chemotherapeutic or cosmeceutical agents. Green strategies, such as the process based on membrane technologies, allow to recover active polyphenols from this complex matrix. This study aims to evaluate the antioxidant, pro-oxidant, and photoprotective effects, including the underlying action mechanism(s), of the ultra-filtered (UF) OMWW fractions, in order to substantiate their use as natural cosmeceutical ingredient. Six chemically characterized UF-OMWW fractions, from Italian and Greek olive cultivar processing, were investigated for their antioxidant activities, measured by Trolox Equivalent Antioxidant Capacity (TEAC), LDL oxidation inhibition, and ROS-quenching ability in UVA-irradiated HEKa (Human Epidermal Keratinocytes adult) cultures. The photoprotective properties of UF-OMWW were assayed as a pro-oxidant-mediated pro-apoptotic effect on the UVA-damaged HEKa cells, which can be potentially involved in the carcinogenesis process. All the UF-OMWW fractions exerted an effective antioxidant activity in vitro and in cells when administered together with UV-radiation on HEKa. A pro-oxidative and pro-apoptotic effect on the UVA-damaged HEKa cells were observed, suggesting some protective actions of polyphenol fraction on keratinocyte cell cultures.

Pterostilbene in Cancer Therapy

Natural polyphenols are organic chemicals which contain phenol units in their structures and possess antitumor properties. However, a key problem is their short half-life and low bioavailability under in vivo conditions. Pterostilbene (3,5-dimethoxy-4′-hydroxystilbene; PT) is a phytoalexin originally isolated from the heartwood of red sandalwood. As recently reported by our group, PT was shown to be effective in the treatment of melanoma. Counterintuitively, PT is not effective (cytotoxic) against melanoma in vitro, and only under in vivo conditions does PT display its anticancer activity. This study elucidated that PT can be effective against melanoma through the inhibition of adrenocorticotropic hormone production in the brain of a mouse, which weakens the Nrf2-dependent antioxidant defenses of melanoma and also pancreatic cancers. This results in both the inhibition of tumor growth and sensitization of the tumor to oxidative stress. Moreover, PT can promote cancer cell death via a mechanism involving lysosomal membrane permeabilization. Different grades of susceptibility were observed among the different cancer cells depending on their lysosomal heat shock protein 70 content, a known stabilizer of lysosomal membranes. In addition, the safety of PT administered i.v. has been evaluated in mice. PT was found to be pharmacologically safe because it showed no organ-specific or systemic toxicity (including tissue histopathologic examination and regular hematology and clinical chemistry data) even when administered i.v. at a high dose (30 mg/kg per day × 23 days). Moreover, new pharmacological advances are being developed to increase its bioavailability and, thereby, its bioefficacy. Therefore, although applications of PT in cancer therapy are just beginning to be explored, it represents a potential (and effective) adjuvant/sensitizing therapy which may improve the results of various oncotherapies. The aim of this review is to present and discuss the results that in our opinion best support the usefulness of PT in cancer therapy, making special emphasis on the in vivo evidence.

Current developments in the nanomediated delivery of photoprotective phytochemicals

Natural products have been used to protect the skin from harmful UV radiation for decades. Due to the ecotoxicological implications of synthetic sunscreen exposure in aquatic ecosystems, there is a greater need to explore alternative sources of UV filters. Recent research has focused on discovering novel UV absorbing photoprotective molecules from nature. In response to the excessive damage caused by UVB rays, plants induce the production of high concentrations of phytoprotective secondary metabolites and anti-oxidative enzymes. Despite promising UV absorbing and photoprotective properties, plant secondary metabolites have been underutilized in topical delivery due to low solubility and high instability. Numerous phytochemicals have been effectively nanosized, incorporated in formulations, and studied for their sustained effects in photoprotection. The present review outlines recent developments in nanosizing and delivering photoprotective crude plant extract and phytochemicals from a phytochemical perspective. We searched for articles using keywords: "UV damage," "skin photoprotection," "photodamage," and "nano delivery" in varied combinations. We identified and reviewed literature from 43 original research articles exploring nanosized phytochemicals and crude plant extracts with photoprotective activity. Nanosized phytochemicals retained higher amounts of bioactive compounds in the skin and acted as depots for their sustained release. Novel approaches in nanosizing considerably improved the photostability, efficacy, and water resistance of plant secondary metabolites. We further discuss the need for broad-spectrum sunscreen products, potential challenges, and future growth in this area.

Polyphenol-Conjugated Bimetallic Au@AgNPs for Improved Wound Healing

Background

Polyphenols possess antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties and have been used in the treatment of skin wounds and burns. We previously showed that tannic acid-modified AgNPs sized >26 nm promote wound healing, while tannic acid-modified AgNPs sized 13 nm can elicit strong local inflammatory response. In this study, we tested bimetallic Au@AgNPs sized 30 nm modified with selected flavonoid and non-flavonoid compounds for wound healing applications.

Methods

Bimetallic Au@AgNPs were obtained by growing an Ag layer on AuNPs and further modified with selected polyphenols. After toxicity tests and in vitro scratch assay in HaCaT cells, modified lymph node assay as well as the mouse splint wound model were further used to access the wound healing potential of selected non-toxic modifications.

Results

Tannic acid, gallic acid, polydatin, resveratrol, catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate and procyanidin B2 used to modify Au@AgNPs exhibited good toxicological profiles in HaCaT cells. Au@AgNPs modified with 15 μM tannic acid, 200 μM resveratrol, 200 μM epicatechin gallate, 1000 μM gallic acid and 200 μM procyanidin B2 induced wound healing in vivo and did not lead to the local irritation or inflammation. Tannic acid-modified Au@AgNPs induced epithelial-to-mesenchymal transition (EMT) - like re-epithelialization, while other polyphenol modifications of Au@AgNPs acted through proliferation and wound closure.

Conclusion

Bimetallic Au@AgNPs can be used as a basis for modification with selected polyphenols for topical uses. In addition, we have demonstrated that particular polyphenols used to modify bimetallic nanoparticles may show different effects upon different stages of wound healing.

Diet and Skin Aging-From the Perspective of Food Nutrition

We regularly face primary challenges in deciding what to eat to maintain young and healthy skin, defining a healthy diet and the role of diet in aging. The topic that currently attracts maximum attention is ways to maintain healthy skin and delay skin aging. Skin is the primary barrier that protects the body from external aggressions. Skin aging is a complex biological process, categorized as chronological aging and photo-aging, and is affected by internal factors and external factors. With the rapid breakthrough of medicine in prolonging human life and the rapid deterioration of environmental conditions, it has become urgent to find safe and effective methods to treat skin aging. For diet, as the main way for the body to obtain energy and nutrients, people have gradually realized its importance to the skin. Therefore, in this review, we discuss the skin structure, aging manifestations, and possible mechanisms, summarize the research progress, challenges, possible directions of diet management, and effects of foodborne antioxidants on skin aging from the perspective of food and nutrition.

For the love of color: Plant colors and the dermatologist

Humans have been anointing their skin with natural colorants since antiquity. Before the advent of modern cosmetics, tattoos and hair dyes, the spectacular colors in plants served as a palette for humanity's fascination with color. Skin, hair, nails, teeth and clothing have been altered with botanical colorants for centuries. Understanding the relevance of botanical colorants is an important part of cultural competency. Substitution or adulteration of plant colorants with synthetic colorants has played a role in varied dermatoses (eg. black henna, kumkum, and Holi dermatoses). Safety concerns over synthetic colorants have led to a resurgence of natural colorants. However, some plant colorants have produced adverse reactions. Plant colorants have also played an integral role in medicine. Ingested plant colorants are an indispensable part of our diet, playing crucial roles in the maintenance of health and prevention of disease. Excessive intake of some pigments can alter skin color (carotenoderma, lycopenemia, and the golden tan of canthaxanthin). We have relied on the colors of hematoxylin and alizarin red, derived from the logwood tree and madder roots, respectively, to study and diagnose disease in pathology. We briefly review the uses, cultural relevance, and adverse effects of the common botanical colorants on the skin, hair, and mucosa. We also describe their relevance in our diet, and in the diagnosis and description of dermatological diseases.

Wound Healing Potential of Chlorogenic Acid and Myricetin-3-O-β-Rhamnoside Isolated from Parrotia persica

Wound healing is a complex physiological process that is controlled by a well-orchestrated cascade of interdependent biochemical and cellular events, which has spurred the development of therapeutics that simultaneously target these active cellular constituents. We assessed the potential of Parrotia persica (Hamamelidaceae) in wound repair by analyzing the regenerative effects of its two main phenolic compounds, myricetin-3-O-β-rhamnoside and chlorogenic acid. To accomplish this, we performed phytochemical profiling and characterized the chemical structure of pure compounds isolated from P. persica, followed by an analysis of the biological effects of myricetin-3-O-β-rhamnoside and chlorogenic acid on three cell types, including keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and endothelial cells. Myricetin-3-O-β-rhamnoside and chlorogenic acid exhibited complementary pro-healing properties. The percentage of keratinocyte wound closure as measured by a scratch assay was four fold faster in the presence of 10 µg/mL chlorogenic acid, as compared to the negative control. On the other hand, myricetin-3-O-β-rhamnoside at 10 µg/mL was more effective in promoting fibroblast migration, demonstrating a two-fold higher rate of closure compared to the negative control group. Both compounds enhanced the capillary-like tube formation of endothelial cells in an in vitro angiogenesis assay. Our results altogether delineate the potential to synergistically accelerate the fibroblastic and remodelling phases of wound repair by administering appropriate amounts of myricetin-3-O-β-rhamnoside and chlorogenic acid.

Meristem Plant Cells as a Sustainable Source of Redox Actives for Skin Rejuvenation

Recently, aggressive advertisement claimed a “magic role” for plant stem cells in human skin rejuvenation. This review aims to shed light on the scientific background suggesting feasibility of using plant cells as a basis of anti-age cosmetics. When meristem cell cultures obtained from medicinal plants are exposed to appropriate elicitors/stressors (ultraviolet, ultrasound ultraviolet (UV), ultrasonic waves, microbial/insect metabolites, heavy metals, organic toxins, nutrient deprivation, etc.), a protective/adaptive response initiates the biosynthesis of secondary metabolites. Highly bioavailable and biocompatible to human cells, low-molecular weight plant secondary metabolites share structural/functional similarities with human non-protein regulatory hormones, neurotransmitters, pigments, polyamines, amino-/fatty acids. Their redox-regulated biosynthesis triggers in turn plant cell antioxidant and detoxification molecular mechanisms resembling human cell pathways. Easily isolated in relatively large quantities from contaminant-free cell cultures, plant metabolites target skin ageing mechanisms, above all redox imbalance. Perfect modulators of cutaneous oxidative state via direct/indirect antioxidant action, free radical scavenging, UV protection, and transition-metal chelation, they are ideal candidates to restore photochemical/redox/immune/metabolic barriers, gradually deteriorating in the ageing skin. The industrial production of plant meristem cell metabolites is toxicologically and ecologically sustainable for fully “biological” anti-age cosmetics.

Gallic Acid Promotes Wound Healing in Normal and Hyperglucidic Conditions

Skin is the outermost layer of the human body that is constantly exposed to environmental stressors, such as UV radiation and toxic chemicals, and is susceptible to mechanical wounding and injury. The ability of the skin to repair injuries is paramount for survival and it is disrupted in a spectrum of disorders leading to skin pathologies. Diabetic patients often suffer from chronic, impaired wound healing, which facilitate bacterial infections and necessitate amputation. Here, we studied the effects of gallic acid (GA, 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzoic acid; a plant-derived polyphenolic compound) on would healing in normal and hyperglucidic conditions, to mimic diabetes, in human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Our study reveals that GA is a potential antioxidant that directly upregulates the expression of antioxidant genes. In addition, GA accelerated cell migration of keratinocytes and fibroblasts in both normal and hyperglucidic conditions. Further, GA treatment activated factors known to be hallmarks of wound healing, such as focal adhesion kinases (FAK), c-Jun N-terminal kinases (JNK), and extracellular signal-regulated kinases (Erk), underpinning the beneficial role of GA in wound repair. Therefore, our results demonstrate that GA might be a viable wound healing agent and a potential intervention to treat wounds resulting from metabolic complications.

Metabolic and redox barriers in the skin exposed to drugs and xenobiotics

INTRODUCTION

Growing exposure of human skin to environmental and occupational hazards, to numerous skin care/beauty products, and to topical drugs led to a biomedical concern regarding sustainability of cutaneous chemical defence that is essential for protection against intoxication. Since skin is the largest extra-hepatic drug/xenobiotic metabolising organ where redox-dependent metabolic pathways prevail, in this review, publications on metabolic processes leading to redox imbalance (oxidative stress) and its autocrine/endocrine impact to cutaneous drug/xenobiotic metabolism were scrutinised.

AREAS COVERED

Chemical and photo-chemical skin barriers contain metabolic and redox compartments: their protective and homeostatic functions. The review will examine the striking similarity of adaptive responses to exogenous chemical/photo-chemical stressors and endogenous toxins in cutaneous metabolic and redox system; the role(s) of xenobiotics/drugs and phase II enzymes in the endogenous antioxidant defence and maintenance of redox balance; redox regulation of interactions between metabolic and inflammatory responses in skin cells; skin diseases sharing metabolic and redox problems (contact dermatitis, lupus erythematosus, and vitiligo)

EXPERT OPINION

Due to exceptional the redox dependence of cutaneous metabolic pathways and interaction of redox active metabolites/exogenous antioxidants with drug/xenobiotic metabolism, metabolic tests of topical xenobiotics/drugs should be combined with appropriate redox analyses and performed on 3D human skin models.

Interactions between CYP3A4 and Dietary Polyphenols

The human cytochrome P450 enzymes (P450s) catalyze oxidative reactions of a broad spectrum of substrates and play a critical role in the metabolism of xenobiotics, such as drugs and dietary compounds. CYP3A4 is known to be the main enzyme involved in the metabolism of drugs and most other xenobiotics. Dietary compounds, of which polyphenolics are the most studied, have been shown to interact with CYP3A4 and alter its expression and activity. Traditionally, the liver was considered the prime site of CYP3A-mediated first-pass metabolic extraction, but in vitro and in vivo studies now suggest that the small intestine can be of equal or even greater importance for the metabolism of polyphenolics and drugs. Recent studies have pointed to the role of gut microbiota in the metabolic fate of polyphenolics in human, suggesting their involvement in the complex interactions between dietary polyphenols and CYP3A4. Last but not least, all the above suggests that coadministration of drugs and foods that are rich in polyphenols is expected to stimulate undesirable clinical consequences. This review focuses on interactions between dietary polyphenols and CYP3A4 as they relate to structural considerations, food-drug interactions, and potential negative consequences of interactions between CYP3A4 and polyphenols.

Resveratrol prevents cigarette smoke-induced keratinocytes damage

The plant polyphenol, resveratrol (Resv, 3,4,5-trihydroxystilbene), naturally occurring in a number of fruits and other food products, has been extensively studied over the last two decades for its beneficial properties. Recently, its possible topical use in ameliorating skin conditions has also been proposed; however, its role in preventing cigarette smoke (CS)-induced keratinocyte damage has not been investigated yet. Because of its peculiar location, cutaneous tissue is constantly exposed to several environmental stressors, such as CS. Many compounds presented in CS, have been shown to induce, directly or indirectly, cellular oxidative stress (OS) and inflammation via the production of ROS and lipid peroxidation compounds, among which 4HNE has been shown to be one of the most reactive. In this study, we have shown that resveratrol (at a dose of 10 μM) can decrease CS-induced ROS and carbonyl formation in human keratinocytes. In addition, pre-treatment with resveratrol prevented the induction of TRPA1 expression (mRNA and protein levels), a known receptor involved in cellular differentiation and inflammation, which has been recently shown to be activated by 4HNE. Finally, in keratinocytes, resveratrol could increase the expression of MsrA, enzyme involved in cell defence against oxidative protein damage. The present study further confirms the idea that the topical use of resveratrol can provide a good defence against CS-induced skin damage.

Castanea spp. buds as a phytochemical source for herbal preparations: botanical fingerprint for nutraceutical identification and functional food standardisation

BACKGROUND

Many plant species may be used for the production of herbal preparations containing phytochemicals with significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capacities and health benefits: Castanea spp. is among the most commonly used herbal medicines. The aim of this research was to perform an analytical study of chestnut bud preparations, in order to identify and quantify the main bioactive compounds, and to obtain a specific chemical fingerprint to evaluate the single class contribution to the herbal preparation phytocomplex. The analyses were performed using a high-performance liquid chromatograph coupled to a diode array detector.

RESULTS

Castanea spp. was identified as a rich source of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant compounds: the observed analytical fingerprint demonstrated that these bud preparations represent a rich source of bioactive compounds (104.77 ± 1.14 g kg(-1) FW) in relation to different genotypes, specific sampling sites and several phenological stages.

CONCLUSION

This study showed that the observed analytical fingerprint can be considered an important tool for assessing the chemical composition and bioactivities of the chestnut-derived products, considering the Castanea genus as a new source of natural health-promoting compounds. This study allowed the development of an effective tool for quality control by fingerprinting the bud preparation in order to develop a new generation of standardised preparations.

Reactive molecule species and antioxidative mechanisms in normal skin and skin aging

Reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (ROS/RNS) which may exist as radicals or nonradicals, as well as reactive sulfur species and reactive carbon species, play a major role in aging processes and in carcinogenesis. These reactive molecule species (RMS), often referred to as 'free radicals' or oxidants, are partly by-products of the physiological metabolism. When RMS concentrations exceed a certain threshold, cell compartments and cells are injured and destroyed. Endogenous physiological mechanisms are able to neutralize RMS to some extent, thereby limiting damage. In the skin, however, pollutants and particularly UV irradiation are able to produce additional oxidants which overload the endogenous protection system and cause early aging, debilitation of immune functions, and skin cancer. The application of antioxidants from various sources in skin care products and food supplements is therefore widespread, with increasingly effective formulations being introduced. The harmful effects of RMS (aside from impaired structure and function of DNA, proteins, and lipids) are: interference with specific regulatory mechanisms and signaling pathways in cell metabolism, resulting in chronic inflammation, weakening of immune functions, and degradation of tissue. Important control mechanisms are: MAP-kinases, the aryl-hydrocarbon receptor (AhR), the antagonistic transcription factors nuclear factor-κB and Nrf2 (nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2), and, especially important, the induction of matrix metalloproteinases which degrade dermal connective tissue. Recent research, however, has revealed that RMS and in particular ROS/RNS are apparently also produced by specific enzyme reactions in an evolutionarily adapted manner. They may fulfill important physiologic functions such as the activation of specific signaling chains in the cell metabolism, defense against infectious pathogens, and regulation of the immune system. Normal physiological conditions are characterized by equilibrium of oxidative and antioxidative mechanisms. The application of antioxidants in the form of 'cosmeceuticals' or systemic 'nutraceuticals' should aim to support a physiologically balanced oxidation status in the skin.