Fifty years of research and development of cosmeceuticals: a contemporary review

The Biology and Biochemistry of Kynurenic Acid, a Potential Nutraceutical with Multiple Biological Effects

Kynurenic acid (KYNA) is an antioxidant degradation product of tryptophan that has been shown to have a variety of cytoprotective, neuroprotective and neuronal signalling properties. However, mammalian transporters and receptors display micromolar binding constants; these are consistent with its typically micromolar tissue concentrations but far above its serum/plasma concentration (normally tens of nanomolar), suggesting large gaps in our knowledge of its transport and mechanisms of action, in that the main influx transporters characterized to date are equilibrative, not concentrative. In addition, it is a substrate of a known anion efflux pump (ABCC4), whose in vivo activity is largely unknown. Exogeneous addition of L-tryptophan or L-kynurenine leads to the production of KYNA but also to that of many other co-metabolites (including some such as 3-hydroxy-L-kynurenine and quinolinic acid that may be toxic). With the exception of chestnut honey, KYNA exists at relatively low levels in natural foodstuffs. However, its bioavailability is reasonable, and as the terminal element of an irreversible reaction of most tryptophan degradation pathways, it might be added exogenously without disturbing upstream metabolism significantly. Many examples, which we review, show that it has valuable bioactivity. Given the above, we review its potential utility as a nutraceutical, finding it significantly worthy of further study and development.

Photoaging and cosmeceutical solutions in sun-overexposed countries: The experience of Australia and Brazil

Skin aging is the result of physiological changes determined by genetically driven processes and intrinsic factors, and exacerbated by a combination of multiple environmental factors, the main one being sun exposure. The effects of photoaging are particularly apparent on the face, where the appearance of aging signs can have a significant impact on the emotions conveyed and well-being. Photoprotection and facial skin care for managing photoaging signs are thus of particular importance for both physical and mental health. Countries, like Australia and Brazil, where the level of sun exposure is high and the populations have predominantly outdoor lifestyles, are particularly aware of the harms of photoaging and have implemented several measures to help reduce the risk of skin cancer in their populations. However, sun-seeking behaviours are difficult to change, and it takes time before interventions provide perceptible results. Australia still has some of the highest skin cancer incidence and mortality rates in the world. Solutions that target individuals can also be used for minimizing the clinical signs of facial aging and for improving skin quality, with the ultimate aim being not only to improve the appearance of the skin but also to mitigate the occurrence of pre-malignant and malignant lesions. This review summarizes the features of facial skin photoaging in photo-exposed populations, based on evidence gained from studies of Australian individuals, and discusses the various available solutions for skin photoaging, in particular those that are most popular in Brazil, which is a country with many years of experience in managing photoaged skin.

Sociocultural pressures and engagement with cosmetic products and procedures in adult women

Previous studies have shown that cosmetic procedures and products that perpetuate Western hegemonic beauty standards among women have become increasingly popular, and pressures from sociocultural agents to utilize them are significant. However, little work has documented the relationship between perceived sociocultural pressures and use of cosmetic procedures and products among a larger age range of adult women. A community sample of 308 women aged 18-66, mean (SD) age of 35.7 (9.7), reported on the cosmetic procedures they had considered or used, as well as perceived pressures from the media, peers, romantic partners, and health and beauty professionals. Findings revealed that, among those investigated, the most frequently utilized products and procedures were supplements and hair removal. However, a significant minority reported considering more invasive procedures, including cosmetic surgery. Media was the predominant source of pressure, while partners were the least frequently endorsed. While pressure from professionals and peers had small-to-moderate associations with utilization of cosmetic products and procedures, pressure from partners had the largest association with their use. This work frames important future directions for examining the impact of sociocultural pressures on women's willingness to utilize cosmetic products and procedures that are sometimes underregulated and risky for physical and mental health.

Efficacy and mechanism of retinyl palmitate against UVB-induced skin photoaging

Retinyl palmitate (RP) is a vitamin A derivative that has been widely used in anti-aging and skin treatment. The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of RP on UVB (Ultraviolet radiation B) induced photoaging and its potential mechanism. Immunofluorescence assay demonstrates that RP can reduce collagen degradation in skin cells by UVB radiation and reduce apoptosis of skin cells. Cell migration assay reveals that RP can increase cell migration rate, helping to repair skin damage and restore cell viability. Immunohistochemical assays indicate that RP can significantly reduce the expression of IL-6, IL-1β, TNF-α induced by UVB radiation. Moreover, metabolomics and transcriptomics results suggest that RP regulates several metabolic pathways and gene expression, particularly in inflammatory signaling pathways, collagen synthesis and apoptosis, exhibiting significant regulatory effects. Furthermore, network pharmacological analysis predicts that RP may affect UVB-induced photoaging by regulating multiple key proteins and signaling pathways. Overall, this study demonstrates that RP has significant anti-photoaging ability, acting through several pathways including inhibition of inflammatory response, promotion of collagen synthesis and inhibition of apoptosis. These results provide a scientific basis for the application of RP in skin anti-photoaging and therapy, enabling the potential usage of RP to skin care products.

Development and Characterization of Methyl-Anthranilate-Loaded Silver Nanoparticles: A Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Gel for UV Protection

Methyl anthranilate (MA) is a naturally derived compound commonly used in cosmetic products, such as skin care products, fine perfumes, etc. The goal of this research was to develop a UV-protective sunscreen gel using methyl-anthranilate-loaded silver nanoparticles (MA-AgNPs). The microwave approach was used to develop the MA-AgNPs, which were then optimized using Box-Behnken Design (BBD). Particle size (Y1) and absorbance (Y2) were chosen as the response variables, while AgNO₃ (X1), methyl anthranilate concentration (X2), and microwave power (X3) were chosen as the independent variables. Additionally, the prepared AgNPs were approximated for investigations on in vitro active ingredient release, dermatokinetics, and confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM). The study's findings showed that the optimal MA-loaded AgNPs formulation had a particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, and percentage entrapment efficiency (EE) of 200 nm, 0.296 mV, -25.34 mV, and 87.88%, respectively. The image from transmission electron microscopy (TEM) demonstrated the spherical shape of the nanoparticles. According to an in vitro investigation on active ingredient release, MA-AgNPs and MA suspension released the active ingredient at rates of 81.83% and 41.62%, respectively. The developed MA-AgNPs formulation was converted into a gel by using Carbopol 934 as a gelling agent. The spreadability and extrudability of MA-AgNPs gel were found to be 16.20 and 15.190, respectively, demonstrating that the gel may spread very easily across the skin's surface. The MA-AgNPs formulation demonstrated improved antioxidant activity in comparison to pure MA. The MA-AgNPs sunscreen gel formulation displayed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behaviour, which is typical of skin-care products, and was found to be stable during the stability studies. The sun protection factor (SPF) value of MA-AgNPG was found to be 35.75. In contrast to the hydroalcoholic Rhodamine B solution (5.0 µm), the CLSM of rat skin treated with the Rhodamine B-loaded AgNPs formulation showed a deeper penetration of 35.0 µm, indicating the AgNPs formulation was able to pass the barrier and reach the skin's deeper layers for more efficient delivery of the active ingredient. This can help with skin conditions where deeper penetration is necessary for efficacy. Overall, the results indicated that the BBD-optimized MA-AgNPs provided some of the most important benefits over conventional MA formulations for the topical delivery of methyl anthranilate.

Efficacy and Safety of Epidermidibacterium Keratini EPI-7 Derived Postbiotics in Skin Aging: A Prospective Clinical Study

The present study investigated the effect of topical application of Epidermidibacterium Keratini (EPI-7) ferment filtrate, which is a postbiotic product of a novel actinobacteria, on skin aging, by performing a prospective randomized split-face clinical study on Asian woman participants. The investigators measured skin biophysical parameters, including skin barrier function, elasticity, and dermal density, and revealed that the application of the EPI-7 ferment filtrate-including test product resulted in significantly higher improvements in barrier function, skin elasticity, and dermal density compared to the placebo group. This study also investigated the influence of EPI-7 ferment filtrate on skin microbiome diversity to access its potential beneficial effects and safety. EPI-7 ferment filtrate increased the abundance of commensal microbes belonging to Cutibacterium, Staphylococcus, Corynebacterium, Streptococcus, Lawsonella, Clostridium, Rothia, Lactobacillus, and Prevotella. The abundance of Cutibacterium was significantly increased along with significant changes in Clostridium and Prevotella abundance. Therefore, EPI-7 postbiotics, which contain the metabolite called orotic acid, ameliorate the skin microbiota linked with the aging phenotype of the skin. This study provides preliminary evidence that postbiotic therapy may affect the signs of skin aging and microbial diversity. To confirm the positive effect of EPI-7 postbiotics and microbial interaction, additional clinical investigations and functional analyses are required.

Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol

BACKGROUND

Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study.

METHODS

For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly.

RESULTS

Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ² (1) = 23.97; p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

This study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.

Evaluation of a multiple microemulsion from Trichilia catigua extract and the percutaneous penetration through skin by Phase-Resolved photoacoustic spectroscopy

Emulsion systems have been a breakthrough in cosmetic products, providing performance and effectiveness of products that use this technological strategy for drug delivery systems. In this sense, the microemulsion of the multiple emulsion W/O/W type containing a standardized extract of Trichilia catigua with high levels of polyphenols and antioxidants has great potential for cosmetic use. The aim of this study was to evaluate the formulations safety through the analysis of toxicity, comedogenicity, and histopathology in rabbits and apply the Phase-Resolved Photoacoustic Spectroscopy method to determine the formulation percutaneous penetration through the skin. The ex vivo experiments were performed in the ears of albino New Zealand rabbits treated twice a day for 14 days. The results of histological, hematological, and blood chemistry showed that the formulations are safe. Histopathological analysis showed no tissue reaction in any of the analyzed organs (liver and kidneys), confirming the absence of toxicity. Histological analysis showed that the formulations with extract of T. catigua demonstrated mild-moderately comedogenic and acanthosis compared to the control group. Inflammatory reactions, erythema, and desquamation were not observed in treated and controls animals. The phase-resolved photoacoustic spectroscopy method showed the penetration of the developed formulations throughout the rabbit's skin, identifying their absorption bands at the dermal side of the skin. In conclusion, the results of this study provide a step towards the application of the developed natural antioxidant encapsulated in a multiple microemulsion for skincare, concerned with the physical, chemical, and biological properties of the formulation.

Bacterial Carotenoids: Extraction, Characterization, and Applications

Natural carotenoids are secondary metabolites that exhibit antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-cancer properties. These types of compounds are highly demanded by pharmaceutical, cosmetic, nutraceutical, and food industries, leading to the search for new natural sources of carotenoids. In recent years, the production of carotenoids from bacteria has become of great interest for industrial applications. In addition to carotenoids with C40-skeletons, some bacteria have the ability to synthesize characteristic carotenoids with C30-skeletons. In this regard, a great variety of methodologies for the extraction and identification of bacterial carotenoids has been reported and this is the first review that condenses most of this information. To understand the diversity of carotenoids from bacteria, we present their biosynthetic origin in order to focus on the methodologies employed in their extraction and characterization. Special emphasis has been made on high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) for the analysis and identification of bacterial carotenoids. We end up this review showing their potential commercial use. This review is proposed as a guide for the identification of these metabolites, which are frequently reported in new bacteria strains.

Ultraviolet radiation protection potentials of Methylene Blue for human skin and coral reef health

Methylene blue (MB) is a century-old medicine, a laboratory dye, and recently shown as a premier antioxidant that combats ROS-induced cellular aging in human skins. Given MB's molecular structure and light absorption properties, we hypothesize that MB has the potential to be considered as a sunscreen active for UV radiation protection. In this study, we tested the effects of MB on UVB ray-induced DNA double-strand breaks in primary human keratinocytes. We found that MB treatment reduced DNA damages caused by UVB irradiation and subsequent cell death. Next, we compared MB with Oxybenzone, which is the most commonly used chemical active ingredient in sunscreens but recently proven to be hazardous to aquatic ecosystems, in particular to coral reefs. At the same concentrations, MB showed more effective UVB absorption ability than Oxybenzone and significantly outperformed Oxybenzone in the prevention of UVB-induced DNA damage and the clearance of UVA-induced cellular ROS. Furthermore, unlike Oxybenzone, MB-containing seawater did not affect the growth of the coral species Xenia umbellata. Altogether, our study suggests that MB has the potential to be a coral reef-friendly sunscreen active ingredient that can provide broad-spectrum protection against UVA and UVB.

The Skin Interactome: A Holistic "Genome-Microbiome-Exposome" Approach to Understand and Modulate Skin Health and Aging

Higher demands on skin care cosmetic products for strong performance drive intense research to understand the mechanisms of skin aging and design strategies to improve overall skin health. Today we know that our needs and influencers of skin health and skin aging change throughout our life journey due to both extrinsic factors, such as environmental factors and lifestyle factors, as well as our intrinsic factors. Furthermore, we need to consider our microflora, a collection of micro-organisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi, which is a living ecosystem in our gut and on our skin, that can have a major impact on our health. Here, we are viewing a holistic approach to understand the collective effect of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging both reviewing how each of them impact the skin, but more importantly to identify molecular conjunction pathways of these different factors in order to get a better understanding of the integrated “genome-microbiome-exposome” effect. For this purpose and in order to translate molecularly the impact of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging, we built a digital model based on system biology using different bioinformatics tools. This model is considering both the positive and negative impact of our genome (genes, age/gender), exposome: external (sun, pollution, climate) and lifestyle factors (sleep, stress, exercise, nutrition, skin care routine), as well as the role of our skin microbiome, and allowed us in a first application to evaluate the effect of the genome in the synthesis of collagen in the skin and the determination of a suitable target for boosting pro-collagen synthesis. In conclusion, we have, through our digital holistic approach, defined the skin interactome concept, as an advanced tool to better understand the molecular genesis of skin aging and further develop a strategy to balance the influence of the exposome and microbiome to protect, prevent, and delay the appearance of skin aging signs and preserve good skin health condition. In addition, this model will aid in identifying and optimizing skin treatment options based on external triggers, as well as helping to design optimal treatments modulating the intrinsic pathways.

Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial ageing: three clinical studies

OBJECTIVE

Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti-ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides (rice and lupin), hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralising water, in amber glass ampoules with no preservatives (Peptide-C ampoules).

METHODS

Dansyl chloride fluorescence labelling compared cell turnover for Peptide-C ampoules vs untreated skin in 32 female subjects. Study 2, an open clinical study, evaluated the efficacy on wrinkles of Peptide-C ampoules by investigator clinical scoring based on Dynamical Atlas visual assessment (N = 40) and subject self-assessment questionnaires (N = 47). Study 3, an open clinical study, evaluated wrinkles by instrumental quantification with 3D fringe projection analysis (N = 40) and subject questionnaires (N = 51).

RESULTS

The mean cell turnover was faster for skin treated with Peptide-C ampoules compared to untreated skin (17.1 days vs. 19.2 days; P < 0.0001). In study 2, after 28 days application of Peptide-C ampoules, clinical grading of crow's-feet wrinkles, forehead wrinkles and nasolabial folds decreased by 9%, 11% and 5%, respectively (all P < 0.05 vs baseline). Of 47 subjects, 77%, 64% and 79% indicated their skin seemed smoothed out, fine lines were less visible, and skin complexion was more radiant, respectively. In study 3, the number of wrinkles decreased by 11.5% after 29 days application of Peptide-C ampoules vs baseline (P < 0.05) and 65% of subjects responded the fine lines were less visible.

CONCLUSION

This formulation of a combination of anti-ageing ingredients in ampoules, allowing a minimalist formula, showed significant results on improving facial wrinkles and radiance.

The biology of ergothioneine, an antioxidant nutraceutical

Ergothioneine (ERG) is an unusual thio-histidine betaine amino acid that has potent antioxidant activities. It is synthesised by a variety of microbes, especially fungi (including in mushroom fruiting bodies) and actinobacteria, but is not synthesised by plants and animals who acquire it via the soil and their diet, respectively. Animals have evolved a highly selective transporter for it, known as solute carrier family 22, member 4 (SLC22A4) in humans, signifying its importance, and ERG may even have the status of a vitamin. ERG accumulates differentially in various tissues, according to their expression of SLC22A4, favouring those such as erythrocytes that may be subject to oxidative stress. Mushroom or ERG consumption seems to provide significant prevention against oxidative stress in a large variety of systems. ERG seems to have strong cytoprotective status, and its concentration is lowered in a number of chronic inflammatory diseases. It has been passed as safe by regulatory agencies, and may have value as a nutraceutical and antioxidant more generally.

Protective Effects of Salicornia europaea on UVB-Induced Misoriented Cell Divisions in Skin Epithelium

Correct orientation of cell division is extremely important in the maintenance, regeneration, and repair of continuously proliferating tissues, such as the epidermis. Regulation of the axis of division of epidermal cells prevents the apoptosis-induced compensatory proliferation, and eventually the cancer. Thus, the orientation of cell division is critical for maintaining the tissue architecture. In this study, we investigated the effects of S. europaea extract on the texture of human skin and the behavior of these cells during skin morphogenesis. In sun-exposed skin, S. europaea improved the texture. A multilayered, highly differentiated in vitro skin model indicated that, S. europaea extract suppressed the UVB-induced changes in the morphology of basal keratinocytes. Orientation of cell division was determined by measuring the axis of mitosis in the vertical sections of our experimental model. Analyses of the digital images revealed that S. europaea preserved the axis of division of basal keratinocytes from UVB-induced perturbations. Our findings uncover a new mechanism by which S. europaea responds to the spindle misorientation induced by UVB.

Sustainable Peptide Synthesis Enabled by a Transient Protecting Group

The growing interest in synthetic peptides has prompted the development of viable methods for their sustainable production. Currently, large amounts of toxic solvents are required for peptide assembly from protected building blocks, and switching to water as a reaction medium remains a major hurdle in peptide chemistry. We report an aqueous solid‐phase peptide synthesis strategy that is based on a water‐compatible 2,7‐disulfo‐9‐fluorenylmethoxycarbonyl (Smoc) protecting group. This approach enables peptide assembly under aqueous conditions, real‐time monitoring of building block coupling, and efficient postsynthetic purification. The procedure for the synthesis of all natural and several non‐natural Smoc‐protected amino acids is described, as well as the assembly of 22 peptide sequences and the fundamental issues of SPPS, including the protecting group strategy, coupling and cleavage efficiency, stability under aqueous conditions, and crucial side reactions.

Development of Multifunctional Cosmetic Cream Using Bioactive Materials from Streptomyces sp. T65 with Synthesized Mesoporous Silica Particles SBA-15

Various cosmetics having a single function are increasingly being used, but cosmetics having multifunctional activities remain limited. We aimed to develop a multifunctional cosmetic cream having antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging and antimicrobial activities. Antimicrobial activities were performed by disc-diffusion method. Cell toxicity and cell proliferations were evaluated in a 96-well plate with different cell lines such as HaCaT, RAW264.7, CCD-986Sk, B16F1, and B16F10. Mushroom tyrosinase inhibition, elastase inhibition, and 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activities were evaluated and IC₅₀ was calculated. Mesoporous silica particle was synthesized using Pluronic P123 and tetraethyl ortho-silicate (TEOS). Facial pictures were captured by VISIA-CR (Facial Imaging System for Clinical Research). Roughness of image was analysed by PRIMOS software and brightness of image was analyzed by Chromameter CR-400. The crude product of strain T65 inhibited the different human pathogenic bacteria such as Bacillus subtilis, Escherichia coli, Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The IC₅₀ of T65 crude product for mushroom tyrosinase, elastase, and DPPH radical scavenging activities were 58.73, 14.68, and 6.31 µg/mL, respectively. T65 crude product proliferated collagen type I in CCD-986Sk cell up to 145.91% ± 9.11% (mean ± SD; mean of 24, 48, and 72 h) at 250 pg/mL. Synthesized mesoporous particles (SBA-15) confirmed the sustainable performance by control-release for three days. Formulated functional cosmetic cream containing T65 embedded SBA-15, significantly decreased the skin roughness by 4.670% and increased the skin brightness by 0.472% after application of 4 weeks. T65 crude product inhibited both Gram-positive and Gram-negative pathogens. Synthesized mesoporous particle, SBA-15, confirmed the physiologically active substance was released in sustainable release condition. T65 crude product showed impeccable antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-aging, and whitening activities with non-cytotoxic effects to different cell lines related to the human skin.

Vitamin C: One compound, several uses. Advances for delivery, efficiency and stability

Vitamin C (Vit C) is a potent antioxidant with several applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields. However, the biggest challenge in the utilization of Vit C is to maintain its stability and improve its delivery to the active site. Several strategies have been developed such as: controlling the oxygen levels during formulation and storage, low pH, reduction of water content in the formulation and the addition of preservative agents. Additionally, the utilization of derivatives of Vit C and the development of micro and nanoencapsulated delivery systems have been highlighted. In this article, the multiple applications and mechanisms of action of vitamin C will be reviewed and discussed, as well as the new possibilities of delivery and improvement of stability.

Skin Carotenoids in Public Health and Nutricosmetics: The Emerging Roles and Applications of the UV Radiation-Absorbing Colourless Carotenoids Phytoene and Phytofluene

In this work, the importance of dietary carotenoids in skin health and appearance is comprehensively reviewed and discussed. References are made to their applications in health-promoting and nutricosmetic products and the important public health implications that can be derived. Attention is focused on the colourless UV radiation (UVR)-absorbing dietary carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene, which are attracting increased interest in food science and technology, nutrition, health and cosmetics. These compounds are major dietary carotenoids, readily bioavailable, and have been shown to be involved in several health-promoting actions, as pinpointed in recent reviews. The growing evidence that these unique UVR-absorbing carotenoids with distinctive structures, properties (light absorption, susceptibility to oxidation, rigidity, tendency to aggregation, or even fluorescence, in the case of phytofluene) and activities can be beneficial in these contexts is highlighted. Additionally, the recommendation that the levels of these carotenoids are considered in properly assessing skin carotenoid status is made.

Functional recovery in photo-damaged human dermal fibroblasts by human adipose-derived stem cell extracellular vesicles

Ultraviolet-B (UVB) irradiation causes imbalance between dermal matrix synthesis and degradation through aberrant upregulation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), which leads to overall skin photoaging. We investigated the effects of extracellular vesicles (EVs) derived from human adipose-derived stem cells (HASCs) on photo-damaged human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). EVs were isolated from conditioned media of HASCs with tangential flow filtration and characterized using transmission electron microscopy (TEM), nanoparticle tracking analysis (NTA), western blotting, micro RNA (miRNA) arrays, cytokine arrays and liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). The effects of EVs on the UVB-irradiated HDFs were evaluated using scratch assay, ELISA and real-time PCR. Microarrays exhibited that EVs are rich in various miRNAs and proteins, and that these EV contents are linked to a broad range of biological functions, including fibroblast proliferation, UV protection, collagen biosynthesis, DNA repair and cell ageing. A scratch assay showed that HASC-EVs enhanced the migration ability of UVB-irradiated HDFs. Real-time RT-PCR and ELISA analyses revealed that the HASC-derived EVs significantly suppressed the overexpression of MMP-1, -2, -3 and -9 induced by UVB irradiation and enhanced the expression of collagen types I, II, III and V and elastin. In particular, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase (TIMP)-1 and transforming growth factor (TGF)-β1, which are important factors involved in MMP suppression and ECM synthesis, were upregulated in EV-treated HDFs after UVB irradiation. Overall results suggest that diverse components that are enriched in HASC-derived EVs could act as a biochemical cue for recovery from skin photoaging.

Implications of Aging in Plastic Surgery

Given the rapidly aging population, investigating the effect of age on plastic surgery outcomes is imperative. Despite this, the topic has received relatively little attention. Furthermore, there appears to be little integration between the basic scientists investigating the mechanisms of aging and the plastic surgeons providing the majority of "antiaging" therapies. This review first provides a description of the effects and mechanisms of aging in 5 types of tissue: skin, adipose tissue, muscles, bones and tendons, and nervous tissue followed by an overview of the basic mechanisms underlying aging, presenting the currently proposed cellular and molecular theories. Finally, the impact of aging, as well as frailty, on plastic surgery outcomes is explored by focusing on 5 different topics: general wound healing and repair of cutaneous tissue, reconstruction of soft tissue, healing of bones and tendons, healing of peripheral nerves, and microsurgical reconstruction. We find mixed reports on the effect of aging or frailty on outcomes in plastic surgery, which we hypothesize to be due to exclusion of aged and frail patients from surgery as well as due to outcomes that reported no postsurgical issues with aged patients. As plastic surgeons continue to interact more with the growing elderly population, a better appreciation of the underlying mechanisms and outcomes related to aging and a clear distinction between chronological age and frailty can promote better selection of patients, offering appropriate patients surgery to improve an aged appearance, and declining interventions in inappropriate patients.

Terpenes and isoprenoids: a wealth of compounds for global use

Role of terpenes and isoprenoids has been pivotal in the survival and evolution of higher plants in various ecoregions. These products find application in the pharmaceutical, flavor fragrance, and biofuel industries. Fitness of plants in a wide range of environmental conditions entailed (i) evolution of secondary metabolic pathways enabling utilization of photosynthate for the synthesis of a variety of biomolecules, thereby facilitating diverse eco-interactive functions, and (ii) evolution of structural features for the sequestration of such compounds away from the mainstream primary metabolism to prevent autotoxicity. This review summarizes features and applications of terpene and isoprenoid compounds, comprising the largest class of secondary metabolites. Many of these terpene and isoprenoid biomolecules happen to be high-value bioproducts. They are essential components of all living organisms that are chemically highly variant. They are constituents of primary (quinones, chlorophylls, carotenoids, steroids) as well as secondary metabolism compounds with roles in signal transduction, reproduction, communication, climatic acclimation, defense mechanisms and more. They comprise single to several hundreds of repetitive five-carbon units of isopentenyl diphosphate (IPP) and its isomer dimethylallyl diphosphate (DMAPP). In plants, there are two pathways that lead to the synthesis of terpene and isoprenoid precursors, the cytosolic mevalonic acid (MVA) pathway and the plastidic methylerythritol phosphate (MEP) pathway. The diversity of terpenoids can be attributed to differential enzyme and substrate specificities and to secondary modifications acquired by terpene synthases. The biological role of secondary metabolites has been recognized as pivotal in the survival and evolution of higher plants. Terpenes and isoprenoids find application in pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, synthetic chemistry, flavor fragrance, and possibly biofuel industries.