In vivo evaluation of the effectiveness of biocellulose facial masks as active delivery systems to skin

Hypericum scabrum L.-infused locust bean gum/agar hydrogel film: A novel candidate for anti-aging facial mask applications

This study investigated the anti-aging potential of Hypericum scabrum L. extract and developed a biopolymer-based hydrogel film designed for use as a facial mask. The research evaluated key anti-aging properties, such as the inhibition of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase enzymes, as well as antioxidant activity, and the cytotoxic, genotoxic, and antigenotoxic effects of the extract. Furthermore, the chemical profile of the extract was thoroughly analyzed using LC-MS/MS. The development of a hydrogel film containing locust bean gum (LBG), agar, and glycerol, integrated with H. scabrum extract, was undertaken to provide an innovative and environmentally sustainable solution for skin aging. The structural and functional characteristics of the hydrogel were analyzed using SEM, XRD, FTIR, and TGA/DTA. Additionally, mechanical testing, swelling, weight loss, thickness, in vitro release kinetics, and antibacterial properties were assessed. The H. scabrum extract demonstrated substantial collagenase inhibition, pronounced antioxidant effects, and no genotoxicity, while also exhibiting notable antigenotoxicity (24-69 %). SEM analysis revealed that the unswollen hydrogel had a uniform, smooth surface, while swelling led to a moderately rough texture with pore formation. The hydrogel exhibited rapid swelling (106 ± 1.52 %) and drug release (34.4 ± 0.21 %) within the first 10 min. Thickness and weight loss were within optimal ranges, and the hydrogel exhibited antibacterial activity against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). These findings suggest that the H. scabrum-infused hydrogel film has the potential to serve as a promising candidate for use as an anti-aging facial mask, offering effective anti-aging benefits in an eco-friendly, biocompatible, and sustainable formulation.

Microplastics in Cosmetics: Open Questions and Sustainable Opportunities

The cosmetic industry is now changing or rather having an ecological transition in which formulations such as creams, lotions, and powders for make-up, skin and hair care must not contain microplastics, now a taboo word in this field. Nowadays, many companies are intensifying their research and development (R&D) work to align with recent and future legislation that provides for their elimination to safeguard the ecosystem. The production of new eco-sustainable materials is currently a hot topic which finds its place in a market worth above 350 billion dollars which will reach more than 700 billion dollars in a very short time. This review offers an overview of the main advantages and adverse issues relating to the use of microplastics in cosmetics and of their impact, providing an insight into the properties of the polymeric materials that are currently exploited to improve the sensorial characteristics of cosmetic products. In addition, the various regulatory restrictions in the different geographical areas of the world are also described, which is matter for reflection on future direction. Finally, a prospective vision of possible solutions to replace microplastics with sustainable alternatives complete the picture of the next generation personal care products to support decision-making in the cosmetic marketplace.

Unveiling New Horizons: Advancing Technologies in Cosmeceuticals for Anti-Aging Solutions

In the last years, the landscape of anti-aging cosmetics has been marked by significant advances in cosmeceutical delivery systems. This study aimed to conduct a systematic review of these technological innovations, with a focus on anti-aging effects, from 2018 to 2023. The methodology included a thorough search on PubMed and through gray literature, applying rigorous exclusion criteria. The descriptors were selected based on the Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). A total of 265 articles were found. Exclusion criteria were applied, and 90 of them were selected for full reading. After reading the full 90 articles, 52 were excluded, leaving 38 articles for final evaluation composing this review. The key findings highlighted a clear prevalence of studies exploring nanotechnology, including nanoparticles, niosomes, and liposomes. Most of the formulations analyzed in this review emphasize antioxidant activities, which play a crucial role in preventing premature aging caused by free radicals. The reviewed studies revealed specific activities, such as the reduction in melanin synthesis, the inhibition of enzymes involved in the skin aging process, and the prevention of morphological changes typical of aging.

Bacterial cellulose in cosmetic innovation: A review

Bacterial cellulose (BC) emerges as a versatile biomaterial with a myriad of industrial applications, particularly within the cosmetics sector. The absence of hemicellulose, lignin, and pectin in its pure cellulose structure enables favorable interactions with both hydrophilic and hydrophobic biopolymers. This enhances compatibility with active ingredients commonly employed in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, vitamins, and botanical extracts. Recent progress in BC-based materials, which encompasses membranes, films, gels, nanocrystals, and nanofibers, highlights its significant potential in cosmetics. In this context, BC not only serves as a carrier for active ingredients but also plays a crucial role as a structural agent in formulations. The sustainability of BC production and processing is a central focus, highlighting the need for innovative approaches to strengthen scalability and cost-effectiveness. Future research endeavors, including the exploration of novel cultivation strategies and functionalization techniques, aim to maximize BC's therapeutic potential while broadening its scope in personalized skincare regimes. Therefore, this review emphasizes the crucial contribution of BC to the cosmetics sector, underlining its role in fostering innovation, sustainability, and ethical skincare practices. By integrating recent research findings and industry trends, this review proposes a fresh approach to advancing both skincare science and environmental responsibility in the cosmetics industry.

A Transparent Additive-Free Fibrous Facial Mask for Skin Moisturizing

Most sheet facial masks for skincare are made of nonwovens and loaded with liquid active ingredients, which are usually opaque and require additives for long-term preservation. Herein, a Transparent Additive-Free Fibrous (TAFF) facial mask is reported for skin moisturizing. The TAFF facial mask consists of a bilayer fibrous membrane. The inner layer is fabricated by electrospinning functional components of gelatin (GE) and hyaluronic acid (HA) into a solid fibrous membrane to get rid of additives, the outer layer is an ultrathin PA6 fibrous membrane that is highly transparent, especially after absorbing water. The results indicate that the GE-HA membrane can quickly absorb water and become a transparent hydrogel film. By employing the hydrophobic PA6 membrane as the outer layer, directional water transport is achieved, which enables TAFF facial mask with excellent skin moisturizing effect. The skin moisture content is up to 84% ± 7% after placing the TAFF facial mask on the skin for 10 min. In addition, the relative transparency of the TAFF facial mask on the skin reaches 97.0% ± 1.9% when ultrathin PA6 membrane is used as the outer layer. The design of the transparent additive-free facial mask may serve as a guideline for developing new functional facial masks.

Biocompatible anti-aging face mask prepared with curcumin and natural rubber with antioxidant properties

Natural rubber latex (NRL) is a biopolymer widely used in biomedical applications. In this work, we propose an innovative cosmetic face mask, combining the NRL's biological properties with curcumin (CURC), which has a high level of antioxidant activity (AA) to provide anti-aging benefits. Chemical, mechanical and morphological characterizations were performed. The CURC released by the NRL was evaluated by permeation in Franz cells. Cytotoxicity and hemolytic activity assays were performed to assess safety. The findings showed that the biological properties of CURC were preserved after loading in the NRL. About 44.2 % of CURC was released within the first six hours, and in vitro permeation showed that 9.36 % ± 0.65 was permeated over 24h. CURC-NRL was associated with a metabolic activity higher than 70 % in 3 T3 fibroblasts, cell viability ≥95 % in human dermal fibroblasts, and a hemolytic rate ≤ 2.24 % after 24 h. Furthermore, CURC-NRL maintained the mechanical characteristics (range suitable) for human skin application. We observed that CURC-NRL preserved ~20 % antioxidant activity from curcumin-free after loading in the NRL. Our results suggest that CURC-NRL has the potential to be used in the cosmetics industry, and the experimental methodology utilized in this study can be applied to different kinds of face masks.

Development of Sustainable Hydrophilic Azadirachta indica Loaded PVA Nanomembranes for Cosmetic Facemask Applications

Nanofiber-based facial masks have attracted the attention of modern cosmetic applications due to their controlled drug release, biocompatibility, and better efficiency. In this work, Azadirachta indica extract (AI) incorporated electrospun polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) nanofiber membrane was prepared to obtain a sustainable and hydrophilic facial mask. The electrospun AI incorporated PVA nanofiber membranes were characterized by scanning electron microscope, Ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy (UV-Vis) drug release, water absorption analysis, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging, and antibacterial activity (qualitative and quantitative) at different PVA and AI concentrations. The optimized nanofiber of 376 ± 75 nm diameter was obtained at 8 wt/wt% PVA concentration and 100% AI extract. The AI nanoparticles of size range 50~250 nm in the extract were examined through a zeta sizer. The water absorption rate of ~660% and 17.24° water contact angle shows good hydrophilic nature and water absorbency of the nanofiber membrane. The UV-Vis also analyzed fast drug release of >70% in 5 min. The prepared membrane also exhibits 99.9% antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and has 79% antioxidant activity. Moreover, the membrane also had good mechanical properties (tensile strength 1.67 N, elongation 48%) and breathability (air permeability 15.24 mm/s). AI-incorporated nanofiber membrane can effectively be used for facial mask application.

Investigation of the Sorption Capacity of Polyvinylpyrrolidone Copolymers As the Basis of Hydrogel Cosmetic Masks with Plant Biomass Extracts

The possibility of using hydrogels based on copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone with 2 hydroxyethylmethacrylate to saturate them with plant extracts was established. Hydrogel materials were obtained with extracts of Calendula officinalis and Arnica montana. The sorption capacity of the hydrogels regarding the extract data was determined. The bactericidal and fungicidal activity of the obtained hydrogel materials with extracts of Calendula officinalis and Arnica montana on bacterial strains of Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and fungal strains of Candida tenuis, Aspergilus niger were investigated.

Evolution of Bacterial Cellulose in Cosmetic Applications: An Updated Systematic Review

In recent decades, there has been an increase in environmental problems caused by cosmetic products derived from toxic substances. Based on this issue, researchers and developers of new beauty cosmetics are looking for new natural alternatives that work well for the consumer and have biodegradable characteristics. This systematic review highlights the major publications of bacterial cellulose used strictly for cosmetics in the last 10 years. Bacterial cellulose is a natural product with great cosmetic properties and low cost that has shown excellent results. This study aimed at collecting rigorous information on bacterial cellulose in the cosmetic field in the last decade to produce a systematized review. A comprehensive search was conducted with selected descriptors involving the topic of "bacterial cellulose", "cosmetics", "clean beauty", and "skin mask". Seventy studies were found, which went through exclusion criteria that selected only those related to the topic that was searched. In the 12 remaining studies that met the criteria, bacterial cellulose showed conditions for use as a mask-forming product for facial care. The increase in the number of publications concerning bacterial cellulose in cosmetics in the last ten years is a strong indicator that this is a growing area for both research and the industry.

Design and Engineering of Natural Cellulose Fiber-Based Biomaterials with Eucalyptus Essential Oil Retention to Replace Non-Biodegradable Delivery Systems

This work aims at the design and engineering of sustainable biomaterials based on natural fibers to replace non-renewable fiber sources in the development of non-woven delivery systems. Cellulose fibers were used as the main support to produce multi-structured materials with the incorporation of microfibrillated cellulose (MFC) as an additive. A 3D carboxymethylcellulose matrix retaining a natural bioactive product, eucalyptus essential oil, (CMC/EO), with controlled release functionalities, was also applied to these materials using bulk and spray coating methodologies. Additionally, using a 3D modeling and simulation strategy, different interest scenarios were predicted to design new formulations with improved functional properties. Overall, the results showed that MFC provided up to 5% improved strength (+48%) at the expense of reduced softness (−10%) and absorbency (−13%) and presented a good potential to be used as an additive to maximize natural eucalyptus fibers content in formulations. The addition of CMC/EO into formulations’ bulk revealed better strength properties (21–28%), while its surface coating improved absorption (23–25%). This indicated that both application methods can be used in structures proposed for different sustainable applications or a more localized therapy, respectively. This optimization methodology consists of a competitive benefit to produce high-quality functionalized biomaterials for added-value applications.

Bioactive Bacterial Nanocellulose Membranes Enriched with Eucalyptus globulus Labill. Leaves Aqueous Extract for Anti-Aging Skin Care Applications

Bacterial nanocellulose (BNC) membranes, with remarkable physical and mechanical properties, emerged as a versatile biopolymeric carrier of bioactive compounds for skin care applications. In this study, BNC membranes were loaded with glycerol (as plasticizer and humectant agent) and different doses (1–3 μg cm⁻²) of an aqueous extract obtained from the hydro-distillation of Eucalyptus globulus Labill. leaves (HDE), for application as sheet facial masks. All membranes are resistant and highly malleable at dry and wet states, with similar or even better mechanical properties than those of a commercial BNC mask. Moreover, the HDE was found to confer a dose-dependent antioxidant activity to pure BNC. Additionally, upon 3 months of storage at 22–25 °C and 52% relative humidity (RH) or at 40 °C and 75% RH, it was confirmed that the antioxidant activity and the macroscopic aspect of the membrane with 2 μg cm⁻² of HDE were maintained. Membranes were also shown to be non-cytotoxic towards HaCaT and NIH/3T3 cells, and the membrane with 2 μg cm⁻² of HDE caused a significant reduction in the senescence-associated β-galactosidase activity in NIH/3T3 cells. These findings suggest the suitability and potential of the obtained membranes as bioactive facial masks for anti-aging applications.

Investigation of actual exposure to facial sheet mask preceding its risk assessment

The present study aimed to reveal the amount per application of facial sheet masks and its influencing factors in Chinese population to form the base for an accurate exposure assessment. A total of 175 healthy subjects aged 18 years or older were recruited and divided into two subgroups: one group of 35 subjects were asked to apply same mask for 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, and 30 min respectively, and the other 140 subjects were instructed to apply one of four types of facial sheet masks presented in the market for 15 min. Furthermore, phenoxyethanol and methylparaben were measured to reflect actual exposure to chemicals. The sharp increase in the relative exposure to phenoxyethanol (CAS NO.122-99-6) and methylparaben at 25 min and longer suggests applying facial sheet masks for longer than 20 min may drive the exposure to hazardous chemicals to increase significantly. The 90th percentile of amount per application for plant-cellulose, bamboo charcoal fiber, bio-cellulose, and binchotan charcoal fiber-based masks was 5.753, 5.371, 5.017, and 4.821 g respectively. In addition, men and subjects with sebaceous skin demonstrated lower amount per application compared to women and subjects with dry skin, respectively. Finally, our data showed that the larger the contacting area between face and mask, the more amount per application. We concluded that the appropriate time of application should be less than 20 min. And mask fabrics, gender, sebum content, and contacting area could significantly impact the risk assessment of facial sheet masks. Our data for the first time provides insights into a realistic risk assessment of facial sheet masks in Chinese population.

Application of Blue Honeysuckle Powder Obtained by an Innovative Method of Low-Temperature Drying in Skincare Face Masks

Traditional technologies applied for obtaining plant raw materials for cosmetic production are based primarily on high-level processing, which is reflected in the qualitative composition of the resulting materials. By using low-temperature drying, it is possible to retain in the raw materials a range of valuable ingredients. In this study, blue honeysuckle powder was used as an ingredient of cosmetic face masks. The stability of the masks was evaluated. Dynamic viscosity, yield point and texture analysis of the cosmetics was performed. The color of the emulsions and the level of skin hydration after face mask application was determined. Emulsions were found to be stable. A decrease in dynamic viscosity of the emulsions as a function of increasing concentrations of the additive and under the conditions of rising rotational speed were observed. Similarly, an increase in the concentration of blue honeysuckle in the emulsions resulted in a decrease in the value of the yield point. Based on the results, it can be stated that the addition of blue honeysuckle caused a decrease in hardness of the masks, while the opposite trend was observed for adhesive force. It was found that an increase in the concentration of blue honeysuckle gave a reddish-yellow color to the samples. Corneometric assessment confirmed proper skin hydration after the application of the emulsions.

Biobased and Eco-Compatible Beauty Films Coated with Chitin Nanofibrils, Nanolignin and Vitamin E

A stable water-based suspension containing chitin nanofibrils (CN), chitin nanofibrils complexed with nanolignin and the latter containing Vitamin E was prepared starting from CN nanosuspension and nanostructured powders. The water-based coating was deposited by a spray technique on three different renewable and biodegradable films consisting of biodegradable polyesters and starch to prepare possible beauty mask prototypes. After drying, the films were extracted with water to control their potential release on the wet skin and different amounts of released materials were obtained. The results were discussed considering the composition and morphology of the adopted substrates and their interactions with the coating. The eco-compatibility of these films is related to the absence of preservatives and their easy biodegradability in several environmental conditions, decreasing their burden on solid waste management with respect to fossil-based versions.

Bacterial Nanocellulose toward Green Cosmetics: Recent Progresses and Challenges

In the skin care field, bacterial nanocellulose (BNC), a versatile polysaccharide produced by non-pathogenic acetic acid bacteria, has received increased attention as a promising candidate to replace synthetic polymers (e.g., nylon, polyethylene, polyacrylamides) commonly used in cosmetics. The applicability of BNC in cosmetics has been mainly investigated as a carrier of active ingredients or as a structuring agent of cosmetic formulations. However, with the sustainability issues that are underway in the highly innovative cosmetic industry and with the growth prospects for the market of bio-based products, a much more prominent role is envisioned for BNC in this field. Thus, this review provides a comprehensive overview of the most recent (last 5 years) and relevant developments and challenges in the research of BNC applied to cosmetic, aiming at inspiring future research to go beyond in the applicability of this exceptional biotechnological material in such a promising area.

Shotgun metagenomic analysis of kombucha mutualistic community exposed to Mars-like environment outside the International Space Station

Kombucha is a multispecies microbial ecosystem mainly composed of acetic acid bacteria and osmophilic acid-tolerant yeasts, which is used to produce a probiotic drink. Furthermore, Kombucha Mutualistic Community (KMC) has been recently proposed to be used during long space missions as both a living functional fermented product to improve astronauts' health and an efficient source of bacterial nanocellulose. In this study, we compared KMC structure and functions before and after samples were exposed to the space/Mars-like environment outside the International Space Station in order to investigate the changes related to their re-adaptation to Earth-like conditions by shotgun metagenomics, using both diversity and functional analyses of Community Ecology and Complex Networks approach. Our study revealed that the long-term exposure to space/Mars-like conditions on low Earth orbit may disorganize the KMC to such extent that it will not restore the initial community structure; however, KMC core microorganisms of the community were maintained. Nonetheless, there were no significant differences in the community functions, meaning that the KMC communities are ecologically resilient. Therefore, despite the extremely harsh conditions, key KMC species revived and provided the community with the genetic background needed to survive long periods of time under extraterrestrial conditions.

Preliminary Studies on an Innovative Bioactive Skin Soluble Beauty Mask Made by Combining Electrospinning and Dry Powder Impregnation

The world of cosmetics is now aiming at biobased materials which are skin-compatible and can be used to generate more sustainable beauty masks with enhanced bioactivity. This work presents, in this line of interest, the combination of two innovative technologies, namely electrospinning and dry powder impregnation, to generate biobased skin soluble electrospun pullulan carriers dry impregnated with chitin nanofibrils-nanolignin-glycyrrethinic acid (CLA) complexes, as effective biobased and skin compatible beauty masks. The scalability of the pullulan electrospun carrier and bioactive complexes impregnation were optimized and the morphology evaluated. Subsequently, skin compatibility and mask effectiveness were investigated in vitro and in vivo. The results showed that cell viability was optimal for both impregnated and neat pullulan fibers. Additionally, the CLA impregnated pullulan fibers were able to upregulate the endogenous antimicrobial molecule HBD-2. Preliminary studies in vivo indicated that the beauty mask containing the CLA complexes significantly decreased area, length and depth of forehead and crow’s feet wrinkles, and significantly increased moisturizing levels in the skin. The developed beauty mask was also seen to increase skin firmness, while it did not show skin irritation after the test. The work demonstrates that the combination of these two technologies may open new alternatives to more sustainable bioactive cosmetic products for the skin.

Applicability of bacterial cellulose in cosmetics - bibliometric review

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Bacterial cellulose is biocompatible, hydrophilic, biodegradable being a biopolymer.

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In cosmetics it is used as emulsion stabilizer and as asset delivery masks and skin treatments.

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2019 presents the largest number of publications in the area.

The search for innovation and new approaches to mitigate environmental impact encourages the cosmetic industry to explore new methodologies and materials. Bacterial cellulose has been the focus of research because it has high biocompatibility, skin adhesion, and water retention, in addition to being a sustainable alternative material. This review paper explored the perspectives emerging in the scientific literature on the use of bacterial cellulose in cosmetics. This bibliometric review was performed using four databases along with three software programs to obtain a more complete analysis. The search identified 18 articles related to the topic. Because the highest number of articles was published in the year 2019, it was estimated that more publications will appear in the near future. Studies have demonstrated the potential for the use of bacterial cellulose in face masks for the delivery of active compounds and increased skin hydration, and it can also act as an emulsion stabilizer.

Bacterial cellulose: Biosynthesis, production, and applications

Bacterial cellulose (BC) is a natural polymer produced by the acetic acid producing bacterium and has gathered much interest over the last decade for its biomedical and biotechnological applications. Unlike the plant derived cellulose nanofibres, which require pretreatment to deconstruct the recalcitrant lignocellulosic network, BC are 100% pure, and are extruded by cells as nanofibrils. Moreover, these nanofibrils can be converted to macrofibers that possess excellent material properties, surpassing even the strength of steel, and can be used as substitutes for fossil fuel derived synthetic fibers. The focus of the review is to present the fundamental long-term research on the influence of environmental factors on the organism's BC production capabilities, the production methods that are available for scaling up/scaled-up processes, and its use as a bulk commodity or for biomedical applications.

In vivo evaluation of the effectiveness of biocellulose facial masks as active delivery systems to skin

Background

In recent years, bacterial cellulose (BC), or biocellulose, a natural polymer synthesized by certain bacteria, has attracted great interest in dermatology and cosmetic applications.

Several bioactive ingredients are currently loaded into BC masks. However, only a few studies have reported the effectiveness of such delivery systems.

Aim

The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect on skin parameters of three biocellulose masks formulated to have different cosmetic effects (anti‐aging, lifting, and cell renewal). In particular, skin moisturizing, skin color, skin viscoelastic properties, skin surface smoothness, wrinkle reduction, dermal homogeneity, and stratum corneum renewal were evaluated.

Materials and methods

The study involved 69 healthy Caucasian female volunteers between 25 and 64 years, who were divided into three different studies. Biocellulose facial masks were applied using the split‐face method three times a week for 4‐8 weeks depending on the study.

Results

The results obtained from this work highlight that biocellulose masks are very well tolerated. A significant decrease in skin roughness and wrinkle breadth, and an improvement in dermal homogeneity and firmness, was observed after 2 months of treatment with “anti‐aging” masks. A significant improvement in skin firmness and elasticity was observed after 1 month of treatment with “lifting” masks. Furthermore, a 1‐month treatment with “cell renewal” masks promoted the production of new skin cells through a mild exfoliating action.

Conclusions

This study highlights that biocellulose masks are effective delivery systems to successfully release into the skin several types of active compounds exerting many beneficial effects.