History of sunscreen: An updated view

Microalgae-based sunscreens as green and sustainable cosmetic products

Recently, microalgal biotechnology has attained great acceptance among various researchers and industries for the green and sustainable production of different bioactive compounds. They provide multiple metabolites and molecules, making them an ideal candidate for cosmetic formulators and cosmeceutical companies. Nevertheless, numerous microalgae strains have never been studied for their pharmaceutical, nutritional and cosmeceutical purposes. Even less, only some have been cultivated on a large scale for bioactive compound production. Here, we have studied the cosmetic and cosmeceutical potentials of different microalgal strains for sunscreen as adjuvants and boosters in a green, carbon-neutral and sustainable platform. Other bioactive compounds were exploited, and the available products in the market and the published patents were also reviewed. From our review, it will be possible to combine the fundamental and practical aspects of microalgal biotechnology toward a greener and more sustainable future for the cosmetic/cosmeceutical areas of the photoprotection scenario.

Environmentally Friendly UV Absorbers: Synthetic Characterization and Biosecurity Studies of the Host-Guest Supramolecular Complex

Isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate (IMC) is widely used in various fields because of its exceptional UV-filter properties. However, due to its cytotoxicity and anti-microbial degradability, the potential eco-environmental toxicity of IMC has become a focus of attention. In this study, we propose a host-guest supramolecule approach to enhance the functionality of IMC, resulting in a more environmentally friendly and high-performance materials. Sulfobutyl-β-cyclodextrin sodium salt (SBE-β-CD) was used as the host molecule. IMC-SBE-β-CD supramolecular substances were prepared through the "saturated solution method", and their properties and biosecurity were evaluated. Meanwhile, we conducted the AOS tree evaluation system that surpasses existing evaluation approaches based on apoptosis, oxidative stress system, and signaling pathways to investigate the toxicological mechanisms of IMC-SBE-β-CD within human hepatoma SMMC-7721 cells as model organisms. The AOS tree evaluation system aims to offer the comprehensive analysis of the cytotoxic effects of IMC-SBE-β-CD. Our findings showed that IMC-SBE-β-CD had an encapsulation rate of 84.45% and optimal stability at 30 °C. Further, IMC-SBE-β-CD promoted cell growth and reproduction without compromising the integrity of mitochondria and nucleus or disrupting oxidative stress and apoptosis-related pathways. Compared to IMC, IMC-SBE-β-CD is biologically safe and has improved water solubility with the UV absorption property maintained. Our study provides the foundation for the encapsulation of hydrophobic, low-toxicity organic compounds using cyclodextrins and offers valuable insights for future research in this field.

The silent UVA

The effects of UVA on the skin are well documented in the literature. Sunscreens were originally developed to protect against erythema and consequently against UVB. Even today, most sunscreens on the market provide much higher UVB than UVA protection. By looking at the transmission profile of 3 different sunscreens on the market and making a theoretical calculation, we show that users in the past and even today are being exposed to a huge amount of UVA in a silent way. This is what we define as silent UVA. There is a need to develop a new generation of sunscreens with higher UVA protection to reduce Silent UVA exposure.

Sunlight: Time for a Rethink?

UVR is a skin carcinogen, yet no studies link sun exposure to increased all-cause mortality. Epidemiological studies from the United Kingdom and Sweden link sun exposure with reduced all-cause, cardiovascular, and cancer mortality. Vitamin D synthesis is dependent on UVB exposure. Individuals with higher serum levels of vitamin D are healthier in many ways, yet multiple trials of oral vitamin D supplementation show little benefit. Growing evidence shows that sunlight has health benefits through vitamin D-independent pathways, such as photomobilization of nitric oxide from cutaneous stores with reduction in cardiovascular morbidity. Sunlight has important systemic health benefit as well as risks.

Ultraviolet Filters: Dissecting Current Facts and Myths

Skin cancer is a global and increasingly prevalent issue, causing significant individual and economic damage. UV filters in sunscreens play a major role in mitigating the risks that solar ultraviolet ra-diation poses to the human organism. While empirically effective, multiple adverse effects of these compounds are discussed in the media and in scientific research. UV filters are blamed for the dis-ruption of endocrine processes and vitamin D synthesis, damaging effects on the environment, induction of acne and neurotoxic and carcinogenic effects. Some of these allegations are based on scientific facts while others are simply arbitrary. This is especially dangerous considering the risks of exposing unprotected skin to the sun. In summary, UV filters approved by the respective governing bodies are safe for human use and their proven skin cancer-preventing properties make them in-dispensable for sensible sun protection habits. Nonetheless, compounds like octocrylene and ben-zophenone-3 that are linked to the harming of marine ecosystems could be omitted from skin care regimens in favor of the myriad of non-toxic UV filters.

Recent developments in tuning the efficacy of different types of sunscreens

Due to recent global warming threats, the changes in the atmosphere have caused significant ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure, primarily emitted by the sun, which creates more awareness of photoprotection. Sunscreen development has been a convenient and crucial approach to photoprotection against ultraviolet radiation. Due to high demand, upgrading the quality of sunscreen products and certifying methods are necessary to guarantee the safety of commercial sunscreen products for use. Sunscreen products should have a satisfactory amount of sun protection factor (SPF), ultraviolet A protection factor, as well as the photostability of the sunscreens for them to be considered effective and safe for use. A rigorous study on the effectiveness of the sunscreen components and their safety standards is essential for the productive use and further improvement of the available sunscreen materials. This article summarizes the effects and issues, protective measures of sunscreen usage, and its components, mainly ultraviolet filters.

Effects of Commercial Sunscreens on Survival, Reproduction and Embryonic Development of the Aquatic Snail Biomphalaria glabrata (SAY, 1818)

Over the past few years, there has been a significant increase in the use of sunscreens. Consequently, the occurrence in aquatic environments of ultraviolet filters has also increased. The present study aims to evaluate the toxicity of two commercial sunscreens to the aquatic snail Biomphalaria glabrata. Acute assays were performed with adult snails exposed to solutions of the two products in synthetic soft water. Reproduction and development assays were carried out, involving individual adult and egg masses exposure to assess fertility and embryonic development. Sunscreen A showed a LC₅₀-96 h of 6.8 g/L and reduction in number of eggs and egg masses per individual in the concentration of 0.3 g/L. Sunscreen B presented higher malformation rates in 0.4 g/L with 63% of malformed embryos. Results indicate that the formulation used in sunscreens is an important factor in aquatic toxicity and needs to be evaluated before the final product is commercialized.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations: Influence of Formulation Composition on the SPF and Mechanical Properties

The evaluation of the vehicle formulation is important during the development of sunscreens, as it influences their efficacy. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop photoprotective formulations and evaluate the influence of the formulation components in the sun protection factor (SPF) and physical-mechanical and sensory properties of the formulations. We evaluated four sunscreens through a 2² full factorial design in terms of concentration and emulsifier type. The design of experiments (DOE) parameters were SPF, thixotropy, and work of shear. After the screening of the formulations by DOE, the SPF values, mechanical and sensory properties, and stability were evaluated. All study formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior, compatible with sunscreens, and presented SPF values above 30. The factors evaluated in DOE had significant interactions for all the analyzed parameters. The concentration of the phosphate-based emulsifier influenced the SPF parameter. The work of shear was influenced by the concentration of polyglyceryl-based emulsifier. The concentration and the type of emulsifier influenced the thixotropy. Finally, effective sunscreens were developed, and the type and concentration of emulsifiers had an influence on the SPF of the formulations. In addition, the formulations chosen by DOE were stable and showed good sensory properties.

Consumer Behavior, Skin Phototype, Sunscreens, and Tools for Photoprotection: A Review

Sunscreens and photoprotection tools along with consumer habits and behaviors, can mitigate the skin damage caused by excessive solar radiation. For example, protecting oneself in the shade, avoiding inadequate sun exposure at times of higher incidence of UVB radiation (between 10:00 a.m. and 4:00 p.m.), wearing clothes with sun protection factors, applying sunscreens at the correct amounts and intervals, and wearing glasses with anti-UVA and UVB lenses are effective measures for protecting an individual. Therefore, the objective of this review was to highlight the importance of photoprotection for all skin phototypes, as skin cancer is a worldwide public health problem. In this review of the scientific literature on the Scopus platform between 2015 and 2022, we addressed the most common behaviors among different individuals and their phototypes, the importance of clarifying population habits against solar radiation, and the use of sunscreens and photoprotection tools to provide advice on healthy and safe sun exposure.

Characteristics and common ultraviolet filter usage of sunscreens purchased online: Cross-cultural analysis across 5 continents

BACKGROUND

A wide range of sunscreen products are available globally. Designed to meet various customer needs, they differ in formulations type, textures, ingredients, ultraviolet (UV) protection capabilities, and other properties. Knowing the factors influencing the purchase of sunscreens and the UV filters commonly used in each global region would be beneficial for dermatologists, consumers, and regulators.

METHODS

Data on 50 best-selling sunscreens from each of 20 countries on 5 continents (1000 products in all) were retrieved from Amazon Marketplace during the period from January to July 2021.

RESULTS

Among the 5 continents, Asia had the highest proportion of consumers (71.1%) choosing high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreens (SPF ≥50). In contrast, Europe had the highest percentage (11.8%) purchasing <30 SPF sunscreens. The lack of standard UVA protection labeling was significantly highest in South America. The use of inorganic-based sunscreen was highest in North America, and across all continents, those products were significantly more expensive than organic-based sunscreens. Globally, lotions were the most favored formulation type. "Nongreasy/dry touch" (45.1%) and "lightweight texture" (40.4%) were the most common promotional terms used. The most common UV filters differed among regions. Iron oxide, which can function as a visible light filter, was most frequently found in sunscreens in South America (20%) and North America (19.3%).

CONCLUSIONS

The regional factors influencing the purchase of sunscreen products differed. A considerable number of sunscreens may not provide adequate sun protection for consumers. Dermatologists should recommend sunscreens with sufficient UV protection that suit the skin of individual consumers.

Process Optimization of Phytoantioxidant and Photoprotective Compounds from Carob Pods (Ceratonia siliqua L.) Using Ultrasonic Assisted Extraction Method

The current study first describes the extraction of phytoantioxidant polyphenols from Carob byproducts (pods) using maceration and heating-assisted extraction as traditional methods and ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE) as an innovative method to determine the most efficient extraction process in terms of four targeted responses: total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant activities (TAC and DPPH), and photoprotective properties as measured by the sun protection factor (SPF). Second, we used response surface methodology (RSM) with a central composite rotatable design (CCDR) approach to investigate the influence of process variables (extraction time, extraction temperature, and solvent concentration) on UAE, which was found to be the most effective extraction technique in our study. Carob byproduct extracts had a TPC ranging from 6.21 to 21.92 mg GAE/g dw, a TAC ranging from 22.00 to 49.30 mg AAE/g dw, DPPH scavenging activity ranging from 56.35 to 90.50%, and SPF values ranging from 8.62 to 22.37. The optimal UAE conditions for maximum TPC, TAC, DPPH, and SPF responses were determined to be 38.90% ethanol, 53.90 °C, and 50.92 min. Using Carob as a source for sustainable and bioactive products in conjunction with optimized UAE is a promising contribution to the cosmetic industry that will help to strengthen the concept of environmentally-friendly "green chemistry". Given that Carob pulp or seeds are considered food byproducts, the research presented here encourages the use of these agri-food waste materials in cosmetics.

Probing photoprotection properties of lipophilic chain conjugated thiourea-aryl group molecules to attenuate ultraviolet-A induced cellular and DNA damages

Ultraviolet-A (UVA) radiation is a major contributor to reactive oxygen species (ROS), reactive nitrite species (RNS), inflammation, and DNA damage, which causes photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. This study aimed to evaluate the UVA protective potential of lipophilic chain conjugated thiourea-substituted aryl group molecules against UVA-induced cellular damages in human dermal fibroblasts (BJ cell line). We tested a series of nineteen (19) molecules for UVA photoprotection, from which 2',5'-dichlorophenyl-substituted molecule DD-04 showed remarkable UVA protection properties compared to the reference (benzophenone). The results indicate that DD-04 significantly reduced intracellular ROS and nitric oxide (NO) as compared to the UVA-irradiated control (p < 0.001). Moreover, the compound DD-04 showed anti-inflammatory activity as it significantly reduced the levels of tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α) and interleukin-1β (IL-1β) pro-inflammatory cytokines produced by THP-1 (human monocytic) cells (p < 0.05). DNA damage was also prevented by DD-04 treatment in the presence of UVA. It was observed that DD-04 significantly reduced the number of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) when compared to the UVA-irradiated control (p < 0.001). Finally, the DNA strand breaks were checked and a single intact DNA band was seen upon treatment with DD-04 in the presence of UVA. In conclusion, DD-04 can be considered a potential candidate UVA filter due to its photoprotective potential.

Cu-Enhanced Efficient Förster Resonance Energy Transfer in PBSA Sunscreen-Associated Ternary Cu x Cd1-x S Quantum Dots

Quantum dots (QDs) are semiconducting nanocrystals that exhibit size- and composition-dependent optical and electronic properties. Recently, Cu-based II-VI ternary Cu _x Cd_1-x S (CCS) QDs have emerged as a promising class of QDs as compared to their binary counterparts (CuS and CdS). Herein, a series of ternary CCS QDs are synthesized by changing the molar concentration of Cu²⁺ ions only keeping the 1:1 ratio of the stoichiometric mixture of Cd²⁺ and S^2-. These CCS QDs are attached to 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA), an eminent UV-B filter widely used in many commercial sunscreen products to avoid skin erythema and DNA mutagenic photolesions. The photoinduced Förster resonance energy transfer (FRET) is investigated from PBSA to CCS QDs as a function of Cu concentration in CCS QDs using the steady-state photoluminescence and time-resolved photoluminescence measurements. A 2-fold increase in the magnitude of non-radiative energy transfer rate (K _T(r)) is observed as the molar concentration of Cu in CCS QDs increases from 2 to 10 mM. Our findings suggest that in PBSA-CCS QD dyads, the FRET occurrence from PBSA to QDs is dictated by the dynamic mode of photoluminescence (PL) quenching. The bimolecular PL quenching rate constants (k _q) estimated by Stern-Volmer's plots for PBSA-CCS QD dyads are of the order of 10¹⁰ M^-1 s^-1, which signifies that in the PBSA-CCS QD dyad FRET system, the process of PL quenching is entirely diffusion-controlled.

Photolyase Production and Current Applications: A Review

The photolyase family consists of flavoproteins with enzyme activity able to repair ultraviolet light radiation damage by photoreactivation. DNA damage by the formation of a cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) and a pyrimidine-pyrimidone (6-4) photoproduct can lead to multiple affections such as cellular apoptosis and mutagenesis that can evolve into skin cancer. The development of integrated applications to prevent the negative effects of prolonged sunlight exposure, usually during outdoor activities, is imperative. This study presents the functions, characteristics, and types of photolyases, their therapeutic and cosmetic applications, and additionally explores some photolyase-producing microorganisms and drug delivery systems.

Comprehensive Survey of 14 Benzophenone UV Filters in Sunscreen Products Marketed in the United States: Implications for Human Exposure

Benzophenone (BP)-type ultraviolet (UV) filters are estrogenic chemicals used extensively in sunscreen products, leading to concerns over human exposure. To assess exposure to BP derivatives in sunscreens, we tested 14 BP UV filters in 50 products representing 44 brands marketed in the United States in 2021, finding BP, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BP-3 or oxybenzone), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BP-8), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone (BP-10), 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzophenone (2,3,4-OH-BP), and 4-methylbenzophenone (4-Me-BP) in ≥70% of the samples. The geometric mean (GM) concentration of the sum of these BPs (∑₁₄BPs) in the 50 products was 6600 ng/g. BP-3 was the predominant BP in oxybenzone-containing products (accounting for >99% of the total concentration), with a concentration 5-6 orders of magnitude higher than that in "oxybenzone-free" products (GM: 35 600 000 vs 113 ng/g). BP was present in >90% of products analyzed, including those labeled "oxybenzone-free" (GM: 2100 ng/g). BP concentrations were ∼100-fold higher in octocrylene-containing vs "octocrylene-free" products (GM: 15900 vs 151 ng/g). Dermal exposure doses of BP-3 from oxybenzone-containing products (GM: 4140 000 ng/kg body weight (BW)/day) and of BP in some (24%) octocrylene-containing products (GM: 12 200 ng/kg BW/day) were above reference values (2 000 000 and 30 000 ng/kg BW/day for BP-3 and BP, respectively). This study provides evidence that BP and BP-3 concentrations in sunscreen products vary widely and may be noteworthy even in products labeled oxybenzone- or octocrylene-free, making dermal exposure a continuing concern.

Uptake of nanoparticles from sunscreen physical filters into cells arising from increased environmental microwave radiation: increased potential risk of the use of sunscreens to human health

This study examines the microwave chemical risks posed by photocatalysts present in sunscreens (physical filters) against the increasing use of microwaves (radio waves) in the environment, sometimes referred to as electronic smog. Specifically, the study assesses the damage caused by silica-coated physical filters (photocatalysts, TiO_2⋅ and/or ZnO) contained in commercially available sunscreens and fresh silica-coated ZnO for sunscreens to mouse skin fibroblasts cells (NIH/3T3) evaluated in vitro by the life/death of cells using two types of electromagnetic waves: UV light and microwave radiation, and under simultaneous irradiation with both UV light and microwaves. Conditions of the electromagnetic waves were such as to be of lower light irradiance than that of UVA/UVB radiation from incident sunlight, and with microwaves near the threshold power levels that affect human health. The photocatalytic activity of the physical filters was investigated by examining the degradation of the rhodamine B (RhB) dye in aqueous media and by the damage caused to DNA plasmids from E. coli. Compared to the photocatalytic activity of ZnO and TiO₂ when irradiated with UV light alone, a clear enhanced photocatalytic activity was confirmed upon irradiating these physical filters concurrently with UV and microwaves. Moreover, the uptake of these metal oxides into the NIH/3T3 cells led to the death of these cells as a result of the enhanced photocatalytic activity of the metal oxides on exposure to microwave radiation.

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.

Photoprotection for skin of all color: Consensus and clinical guidance from an expert panel

The negative effects of sun exposure have become better accepted among health care professionals and the lay public over recent decades. Most attention has been focused on the effects of UV light, particularly UVB wavelengths (290-320 nm). Accordingly, products to protect skin from sunlight-associated harm (sunscreens) have been developed to minimize UVB exposure. The effects of longer wavelengths, including UVA (320-400 nm) and visible light (VL, 400-700 nm), are increasingly appreciated. VL accounts for approximately half of the solar radiation that reaches the earth's surface and understanding of its effects on the skin is improving. Studies have shown that VL can induce hyperpigmentation in individuals with dark skin types (Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI). In addition, VL can contribute to the exacerbation of pigmentary disorders, including melasma. Because these findings are relatively new, there are gaps in understanding the needs for photoprotection and guidance for clinicians. A panel of dermatologists and photobiologists was convened to develop consensus recommendations and clinical guidance about sunscreen use relevant to the current understanding of risks associated with sun exposure using a modified Delphi method.

Sunscreens and Photoaging: A Review of Current Literature

Sunscreens have been on the market for many decades as a means of protection against ultraviolet-induced erythema. Over the years, evidence has also shown their efficacy in the prevention of photoaging, dyspigmentation, DNA damage, and photocarcinogenesis. In the USA, most broad-spectrum sunscreens provide protection against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation and short-wavelength ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation. Evidence suggests that visible light and infrared light may play a role in photoaging and should be considered when choosing a sunscreen. Currently, there is a paucity of US FDA-approved filters that provide protection against long UVA (> 370 nm) and none against visible light. Additionally, various sunscreen additives such as antioxidants and photolyases have also been reported to protect against and possibly reverse signs of photoaging. This literature review evaluates the utility of sunscreen in protecting against photoaging and further explores the requirements for an ideal sunscreen.