Chemical analysis of constitutive pigmentation of human epidermis reveals constant eumelanin to pheomelanin ratio

Melanometry for objective evaluation of skin pigmentation in pulse oximetry studies

Pulse oximetry enables real-time, noninvasive monitoring of arterial blood oxygen levels. However, results can vary with skin color, thus detecting disparities during clinical validation studies requires an accurate measure of skin pigmentation. Recent clinical studies have used subjective methods such as self-reported color, race/ethnicity to categorize skin. Melanometers based on optical reflectance may offer a more effective, objective approach to assess pigmentation. Here, we review melanometry approaches and assess evidence supporting their use as clinical research tools. We compare performance data, including repeatability, robustness to confounders, and compare devices to each other, to subjective methods, and high-quality references. Finally, we propose best practices for evaluating melanometers and discuss alternate optical approaches that may improve accuracy. Whilst evidence indicates that melanometers can provide superior performance to subjective approaches, we encourage additional research and standardization efforts, as these are needed to ensure consistent and reliable results in clinical studies.

Revealing the UV response of melanocytes in xeroderma pigmentosum group A using patient-derived induced pluripotent stem cells

BACKGROUND

Xeroderma pigmentosum (XP) is characterized by photosensitivity that causes pigmentary disorder and predisposition to skin cancers on sunlight-exposed areas due to DNA repair deficiency. Patients with XP group A (XP-A) develop freckle-like pigmented maculae and depigmented maculae within a year unless strict sun-protection is enforced. Although it is crucial to study pigment cells (melanocytes: MCs) as disease target cells, establishing MCs in primary cultures is challenging.

OBJECTIVE

Elucidation of the disease pathogenesis by comparison between MCs differentiated from XP-A induced pluripotent stem cells (iPSCs) and healthy control iPSCs on the response to UV irradiation.

METHODS

iPSCs were established from a XP-A fibroblasts and differentiated into MCs. Differences in gene expression profiles between XP-A-iPSC-derived melanocytes (XP-A-iMCs) and Healthy control iPSC-derived MCs (HC-iMCs) were analyzed 4 and 12 h after irradiation with 30 or 150 J/m2 of UV-B using microarray analysis.

RESULTS

XP-A-iMCs expressed SOX10, MITF, and TYR, and showed melanin synthesis. Further, XP-A-iMCs showed reduced DNA repair ability. Gene expression profile between XP-A-iMCs and HC-iMCs revealed that, numerous gene probes that were specifically upregulated or downregulated in XP-A-iMCs after 150-J/m2 of UV-B irradiation did not return to basal levels. Of note that apoptotic pathways were highly upregulated at 150 J/m2 UV exposure in XP-A-iMCs, and cytokine-related pathways were upregulated even at 30 J/m2 UV exposure.

CONCLUSION

We revealed for the first time that cytokine-related pathways were upregulated even at low-dose UV exposure in XP-A-iMCs. Disease-specific iPSCs are useful to elucidate the disease pathogenesis and develop treatment strategies of XP.

Investigation on the influence of the skin tone on hyperspectral imaging for free flap surgery

Hyperspectral imaging (HSI) is a new emerging modality useful for the noncontact assessment of free flap perfusion. This measurement technique relies on the optical properties within the tissue. Since the optical properties of hemoglobin (Hb) and melanin overlap, the results of the perfusion assessment and other tissue-specific parameters are likely to be distorted by the melanin, especially at higher melanin concentrations. Many spectroscopic devices have been shown to struggle with a melanin related bias, which results in a clinical need to improve non-invasive perfusion assessment, especially for a more pigmented population. This study investigated the influence of skin tones on tissue indices measurements using HSI. In addition, other factors that might affect HSI, such as age, body mass index (BMI), sex or smoking habits, were also considered. Therefore, a prospective feasibility study was conducted, including 101 volunteers from whom tissue indices measurements were performed on 16 different body sites. Skin tone classification was performed using the Fitzpatrick skin type classification questionnaire, and the individual typology angle (ITA) acquired from the RGB images was calculated simultaneously with the measurements. Tissue indices provided by the used HSI-device were correlated to the possible influencing factors. The results show that a dark skin tone and, therefore, higher levels of pigmentation influence the HSI-derived tissue indices. In addition, possible physiological factors influencing the HSI-measurements were found. In conclusion, the HSI-based tissue indices can be used for perfusion assessment for people with lighter skin tone levels but show limitations in people with darker skin tones. Furthermore, it could be used for a more individual perfusion assessment if different physiological influencing factors are respected.

Skin colour: A window into human phenotypic evolution and environmental adaptation

As modern humans ventured out of Africa and dispersed around the world, they faced novel environmental challenges that led to geographic adaptations including skin colour. Over the long history of human evolution, skin colour has changed dramatically, showing tremendous diversity across different geographical regions, for example, the majority of individuals from the expansive lands of Africa have darker skin, whereas the majority of people from Eurasia exhibit lighter skin. What adaptations did lighter skin confer upon modern humans as they migrated from Africa to Eurasia? What genetic mechanisms underlie the diversity of skin colour observed in different populations? In recent years, scientists have gradually gained a deeper understanding of the interactions between pigmentation gene and skin colour through population-based genomic studies of different groups around the world, particularly in East Asia and Africa. In this review, we summarize our current understanding of 26 skin colour-related pigmentation genes and 48 SNPs that influence skin colour. Important pigmentation genes across three major populations are described in detail: MFSD12, SLC24A5, PDPK1 and DDB1/CYB561A3/TMEM138 influence skin colour in African populations; OCA2, KITLG, SLC24A2, GNPAT and PAH are key to the evolution of skin pigmentation in East Asian populations; and SLC24A5, SLC45A2, TYR, TYRP1, ASIP, MC1R and IRF4 significantly contribute to the lightening of skin colour in European populations. We summarized recent findings in genomic studies of skin colour in populations that implicate diverse geographic environments, local adaptation among populations, gene flow and multi-gene interactions as factors influencing skin colour diversity.

Skin Pigmentation Affects ViOptix T.Ox Performance in Variably Pigmented Preclinical Model of Flap Ischemia and Congestion

Background

Free flap monitoring is more difficult in patients with dark skin because ischemia and congestion can be masked by pigmentation. For this reason, adjunct methods such as cutaneous near-infrared spectroscopy are of elevated importance in patients with highly pigmented skin. The purpose of this experiment is to determine if ViOpitx T.Ox performance is affected by cutaneous pigmentation.

Methods

Swine with naturally occurring areas of nonpigmented and pigmented skin were used. Pigmentation of each animal was assessed using spectrophotometry and histopathology. During normoxemia, tissue oxygenation (StO2) measurements were taken of nonpigmented and pigmented skin using the T.Ox device. A bicolor pedicled rectus abdominis myocutaneous flap was raised, and T.Ox probe was adhered to adjacent areas of opposite coloration on the same flap. StO2 was measured continuously during reversible episodes of flap ischemia and congestion (n = 4 swine, n = 6 flaps).

Results

There was not a significant difference between baseline StO2 values of nonpigmented (49% ± 7.9%) and pigmented skin (47% ± 6.2%). The absolute change in StO2 was significantly larger during both ischemia (6%) and congestion (16%) in nonpigmented skin compared with adjacent pigmented skin.

Conclusions

T.Ox detects flap ischemia and congestion in both highly pigmented and nonpigmented skin. However, surgeons need to be aware that StO2 changes related to complete flap ischemia or congestion may be much more subtle than what is seen in nonpigmented skin. This study establishes a novel internally controlled porcine model that isolates the impact of skin pigmentation when assessing cutaneous devices measuring tissue oxygenation.

The effect of oxidative degradation of Dopa-melanin on its basic physicochemical properties and photoreactivity

Melanin, particularly eumelanin, is commonly viewed as an efficient antioxidant and photoprotective pigment. Nonetheless, the ability of melanin to photogenerate reactive oxygen species and sensitize the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers may contribute to melanin-dependent phototoxicity. The phototoxic potential of melanin depends on a variety of factors, including molecular composition, redox state, and degree of aggregation. Using complementary spectroscopic and analytical methods we analyzed the physicochemical properties of Dopa-melanin, a synthetic model of eumelanin, subjected to oxidative degradation induced by aerobic photolysis or exposure to 0.1 M hydrogen peroxide. Both modes of oxidative degradation were accompanied by dose-dependent bleaching of melanin and irreversible modifications of its paramagnetic, ion- and electron-exchange and antioxidant properties. Bleached melanin exhibited enhanced efficiency to photogenerate singlet oxygen in both UVA and short-wavelength visible light. Although chemical changes of melanin subunits, including a relative increase of DHICA content and disruption of melanin polymer induced by oxidative degradation were considered, these two mechanisms may not be sufficient for a satisfactory explanation of the elevated photosensitizing ability of the bleached eumelanin. This study points out possible adverse changes in the photoprotective and antioxidant properties of eumelanin that could occur in pigmented tissues after exposure to high doses of intense solar radiation.

Dermatology in black skin

The vast majority of publications in dermatology refer to lightly pigmented skin, with few addressing the peculiarities of black skin. In addition there is no consensus on what it means to be black in different regions of the world. The lack of knowledge on the subject makes it difficult to recognize and manage dermatoses in this type of skin. This article aims to review the literature on intrinsic characteristics, as well as epidemiological and clinical aspects of the cutaneous manifestations of different dermatoses in black skin. It was found that there are sometimes striking differences, in the structural, biological, and functional aspects when comparing lightly pigmented and black skin. There are also physiological changes that need to be recognized to avoid unnecessary interventions. Some dermatoses have a higher incidence in black skin, such as acne, eczema, dyschromia and dermatophytosis. On the other hand, several dermatoses are more specific to black skin, such as pseudofolliculitis barbae, keloid, dermatosis papulosa nigra, ulcers caused by sickle-cell anemia, dactylolysis spontanea, confluent and reticulated papillomatosis of Gougerot and Carteaud, and some diseases of the hair and scalp (including fragile and brittle hair, traction alopecia, folliculitis keloidalis nuchae, folliculitis dissecans and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia). A spectrum of peculiar aspects of specific dermatoses, including sarcoidosis, lichen planus (with emphasis on the pigmentosus variant), psoriasis, lupus erythematosus, vitiligo, syphilis, pityriasis versicolor, and neoplasms are highlighted. In the latter, characteristics of basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and melanoma are compared, in addition to highlighting unusual aspects of primary cutaneous T-cell lymphoma, endemic Kaposi sarcoma, and dermatofibrosarcoma protuberans.

The relevance and accuracy of an AI algorithm-based descriptor on 23 facial attributes in a diverse female US population

BACKGROUND

The response of AI in situations that mimic real life scenarios is poorly explored in populations of high diversity.

OBJECTIVE

To assess the accuracy and validate the relevance of an automated, algorithm-based analysis geared toward facial attributes devoted to the adornment routines of women.

METHODS

In a cross-sectional study, two diversified groups presenting similar distributions such as age, ancestry, skin phototype, and geographical location was created from the selfie images of 1041 female in a US population. 521 images were analyzed as part of a new training dataset aimed to improve the original algorithm and 520 were aimed to validate the performance of the AI. From a total 23 facial attributes (16 continuous and 7 categorical), all images were analyzed by 24 make-up experts and by the automated descriptor tool.

RESULTS

For all facial attributes, the new and the original automated tool both surpassed the grading of the experts on a diverse population of women. For the 16 continuous attributes, the gradings obtained by the new system strongly correlated with the assessment made by make-up experts (r ≥ 0.80; p < 0.0001) and supported by a low error rate. For the seven categorical attributes, the overall accuracy of the AI-facial descriptor was improved via enrichment of the training dataset. However, some weaker performance in spotting specific facial attributes were noted.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, the AI-automatic facial descriptor tool was deemed accurate for analysis of facial attributes for diverse women although some skin complexion, eye color, and hair features required some further finetuning.

Evaluation of human skin response to solar-simulated radiation in an ex vivo model: Effects and photoprotection of L-Carnosine

Sunlight, and more specifically the UV component, induces several skin damages, including sunburns, erythema and photoaging. The purpose of this work is to set up an ex vivo human skin model to assess the capacity of active principles in protecting skin from the deleterious effects of solar radiation. Ex vivo human skin biopsies were cultured in an air-liquid interface and exposed to solar-simulated radiation (SSR, 300-750 nm). L-Carnosine (0.2% and 2%) was applied topically to be tested as photoprotective compound. The effect on oxidative stress induction, photoaging and skin transcriptional profile was assessed by evaluating reactive oxygen species, advanced glycosylation end products formation and gene expression changes. In our model, SSR increases ROS production and AGE accumulation and affects the expression of genes related to oxidative stress, pigmentation, immunity, inflammation and photoaging. Among these pathways, 11 genes were selected as biomarkers to evaluate the skin solar radiation response. Results showed that L-Carnosine provides effective prevention against solar radiation damages reducing ROS, AGEs and mitigating the modulation of the selected biomarker genes. In conclusion, we report that our ex vivo skin model is a valuable system to assess the consequences of solar light exposure and the capacity of topically applied L-Carnosine to counteract them.

Blue light protection factor: a method to assess the protective efficacy of cosmetics against blue light-induced skin damage in the Chinese population

BACKGROUND

Previous studies have shown that visible light (VL), especially blue light (BL), could cause significant skin damage. With the emergence of VL protection products, a harmonization of light protection methods has been proposed, but it has not been widely applied in the Chinese population.

OBJECTIVE

Based on this framework, we propose an accurate and simplified method to evaluate the efficacy of BL photoprotection for the Chinese population.

METHODS

All subjects (n = 30) were irradiated daily using a blue LED light for four consecutive days. Each irradiation dose was 3/4 MPPD (minimum persistent pigmentation darkening). The skin pigmentation parameters, including L*, M, and ITA°, were recorded. We proposed the blue light protection factor (BPF) metric based on the skin pigmentation parameters to evaluate the anti-blue light efficacies of different products.

RESULTS

We found that the level of pigmentation rose progressively and linearly as blue light exposure increased. We proposed a metric, BPF, to reflect the anti-blue light efficacy of products based on the linear changes in skin pigment characteristics following daily BL exposure. Moreover, we discovered that the BPF metric could clearly distinguish the anti-blue light efficacies between two products and the control group, suggesting that BPF is an efficient and simple-to-use metric for anti-blue light evaluation.

CONCLUSION

Our study proposed an accurate and simplified method with an easy-to-use metric, BPF, to accurately characterize the anti-blue light efficacies of cosmetic products, providing support for further development of anti-blue light cosmetics.

The performance of 11 fingertip pulse oximeters during hypoxemia in healthy human participants with varied, quantified skin pigment

BACKGROUND

Fingertip pulse oximeters are widely available, inexpensive, and commonly used to make clinical decisions in many settings. Device performance is largely unregulated and poorly characterised, especially in people with dark skin pigmentation.

METHODS

Eleven popular fingertip pulse oximeters were evaluated using the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Guidance (2013) and International Organization for Standardization Standards (ISO, 2017) in 34 healthy humans with diverse skin pigmentation utilising a controlled desaturation study with arterial oxygen saturation (SaO 2) plateaus between 70% and 100%. Skin pigmentation was assessed subjectively using a perceived Fitzpatrick Scale (pFP) and objectively using the individual typology angle (ITA) via spectrophotometry at nine anatomical sites.

FINDINGS

Five of 11 devices had a root mean square error (ARMS) > 3%, falling outside the acceptable FDA performance range. Nine devices demonstrated worse performance in participants in the darkest skin pigmentation category compared with those in the lightest category. A commonly used subjective skin colour scale frequently miscategorised participants as being darkly pigmented when compared to objective quantification of skin pigment by ITA.

INTERPRETATION

Fingertip pulse oximeters have variable performance, frequently not meeting regulatory requirements for clinical use, and occasionally contradicting claims made by manufacturers. Most devices showed a trend toward worse performance in participants with darker skin pigment. Regulatory standards do not adequately account for the impact of skin pigmentation on device performance. We recommend that the pFP and other non-standardised subjective skin colour scales should no longer be used for defining diversity of skin pigmentation. Reliable methods for characterising skin pigmentation to improve diversity and equitable performance of pulse oximeters are needed.

FUNDING

This study was conducted as part of the Open Oximetry Project funded by the Gordon and Betty Moore Foundation, Patrick J McGovern Foundation, and Robert Wood Johnson Foundation. The UCSF Hypoxia Research Laboratory receives funding from multiple industry sponsors to test the sponsors' devices for the purposes of product development and regulatory performance testing. Data in this paper do not include sponsor's study devices. All data were collected from devices procured by the Hypoxia Research Laboratory for the purposes of independent research. No company provided any direct funding for this study, participated in study design or analysis, or was involved in analysing data or writing the manuscript. None of the authors own stock or equity interests in any pulse oximeter companies. Dr Ellis Monk's time utilised for data analysis, reviewing and editing was funded by grant number: DP2MH132941.

Exploratory study on the body distribution of skin color, pigmentation and, degree of tan in Central European Caucasian Women

It is well known that skin color varies by body site and with season. However, little quantitative data on the topography of skin color and pigmentation are available. Therefore, exploratory cutaneous colorimetric measurements in 20 in central European Caucasian women aged 20 to 60 years have been made at 18 body sites. Tri-stimulus L*a*b*-values, hue, and chroma are considered to describe skin color. Based on the "Individual Typology Angle", the "Degree of Tan" was introduced to quantify the difference between constitutive and facultative pigmentation. Measurements were done in late winter and early summer to estimate potential changes by solar ultraviolet radiation. These measurements made evident that skin color obviously differs across the body in late winter. Even nearby body sites can be recognized as differently colored. A remaining degree of tan was found at permanent and intermittent exposed body sites. The remaining tan was not most pronounced at the permanently exposed sites but on the intermediate ones like the shoulder. In early summer, the degree of tan has most developed at the hands, arms, and instep, followed by the face. This study showed that besides basic differences between body sites in winter, accumulation, and degradation of tan also vary between body sites.

Significance of melanin distribution in the epidermis for the protective effect against UV light

Melanin, the most abundant skin chromophore, is produced by melanocytes and is one of the key components responsible for mediating the skin's response to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Because of its antioxidant, radical scavenging, and broadband UV absorbing properties, melanin reduces the penetration of UVR into the nuclei of keratinocytes. Despite its long-established photoprotective role, there is evidence that melanin may also induce oxidative DNA damage in keratinocytes after UV exposure and therefore be involved in the development of melanoma. The present work aimed at evaluating the dependence of UV-induced DNA damage on melanin content and distribution, using reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models. Tanned and light RHE were irradiated with a 233 nm UV-C LED source at 60 mJ/cm2 and a UV lamp at 3 mJ/cm2. Higher UV-mediated free radicals and DNA damage were detected in tanned RHE with significantly higher melanin content than in light RHE. The melanin distribution in the individual models can explain the lack of photoprotection. Fluorescence lifetime-based analysis and Fontana-Masson staining revealed a non-homogeneous distribution and absence of perinuclear melanin in the tanned RHE compared to the in vivo situation in humans. Extracellularly dispersed epidermal melanin interferes with photoprotection of the keratinocytes.

Melanin-based plumage coloration and melanin content in organs in the barn owl

Although the evolutionary ecology of melanin pigments and melanin-based coloration has been studied in great details, particularly in birds, little is known about the function of melanin stored inside the body. In the barn owl Tyto alba, in which individuals vary in the degree of reddish pheomelanin-based coloration and in the size of black eumelanic feather spots, we measured the concentration in melanin pigments in seven organs. The eyes had by far the most melanin then the skin, pectoral muscle, heart, liver, trachea, and uropygial gland. The concentration in eumelanin was not necessarily correlated with the concentration in pheomelanin suggesting that their production can be regulated independently from each other. Redder barn owls had more pheomelanin in the skin and uropygial gland than white owls, while owls displaying larger black feather spots had more eumelanin in the skin than small-spotted owls. More data are required to evaluate whether melanin-based traits can evolve as an indirect response to selection exerted on melanin deposition in organs.

Pigmentation of lower limbs: Contribution of haemosiderin and melanin in chronic venous insufficiency and related disorders

BACKGROUND

To determine the composition of skin pigmentation in chronic venous insufficiency (CVI) and other less common vascular conditions of lower limbs.

METHODS

Forty-five skin biopsies were obtained from 17 patients. Samples were taken from pigmented regions and compared with control non-lesional samples from the same patient. Perl's Prussian Blue was used to identify haemosiderin and Schmorl's for melanin.

RESULTS

Seven patients presented with CVI, one with concurrent livedo vasculopathy (LV). One patient had LV only. Two patients had acroangiodermatitis (AAD). Six patients had post-sclerotherapy pigmentation (PSP), one with concurrent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). One patient had PIH only. The predominant pigment in CVI samples was haemosiderin. C5-C6 patients showed increased epidermal melanin. LV, AAD, and PSP samples showed dermal haemosiderin but no increase in epidermal melanin. PIH samples showed prominent epidermal melanin whilst no haemosiderin was detected.

CONCLUSION

The predominant pigment in CVI and other vascular conditions was haemosiderin. Melanin was present in later stages of CVI (C5-C6) and in PIH.

Photodynamic Therapy in Pigmented Basal Cell Carcinoma-A Review

This review summarizes the effectiveness of photodynamic therapy (PDT) in the treatment of the pigmented subtype of basal cell carcinoma (BCC) based on the current literature. PDT is a light-activated treatment, non-invasive, that selectively destroys tumor cells and tissues via the interaction of a photosensitizer, light, and molecular oxygen. It can induce cancer cell death through direct tumor vascular damage or via the induction of immune response. However, human skin is also an absorption and scattering medium since it contains hemoglobin and melanin that act as chromophores. Eumelanin can be considered a light-absorber and an intracellular antioxidant that can neutralize PDT-induced ROS and, therefore, decrease PDT success. Various factors, including tumor depth, the degree of pigmentation in malignant cells, and the individual's skin phototype, can impact the outcome of this intricate biochemical process. It has been widely recognized that PDT exhibits limited efficacy in the treatment of pigmented lesions. However, new combination techniques such as curettage or debulking before PDT show promising results in the treatment of pigmented BCC.

Skin Pigmentation and Pulse Oximeter Accuracy in the Intensive Care Unit: a Pilot Prospective Study

Rationale

Despite multiple reports of pulse oximeter inaccuracy among hospitalized Black individuals, regulatory testing of pulse oximeters is performed on healthy volunteers.

Objective

Evaluate pulse oximeter accuracy among intensive care unit patients with diverse skin pigmentation.

Methods

Skin pigmentation was measured using a chromameter in 12 patients and individual typology angle (ITA), a measure of constitutive pigmentation, calculated. Arterial blood gas (ABG) arterial oxygen saturation (SaO 2 ) sampling was precisely matched to pulse oximetry (SpO 2 ) using arterial line waveforms analysis. Error (SpO 2 -SaO 2 ), bias, and average root mean square error (A RMS ) were calculated. Multivariable linear mixed effects models evaluated the association of SpO 2 -SaO 2 with skin pigmentation.

Measurements and Main Results

Sampling time was determined for 350 ABGs. Five participants (N=96 ABGs) were darkly pigmented (forehead ITA<-30°), and 7 lighter pigmented (N=254 ABGs). Darkly pigmented individuals had 1.05% bias and 4.15% A RMS compared to 0.34% bias and 1.97% A RMS among lighter pigmented individuals. After adjusting for SaO 2 , pH, heart rate, and mean arterial pressure, SpO 2 -SaO 2 was falsely elevated by 1.00% more among darkly pigmented individuals (95% confidence interval: 0.25-1.76%). SpO 2 significantly overestimated SaO 2 for dark, brown, and tan forehead or forearm pigmentation and brown and tan finger pad pigmentation compared to intermediate/light pigmentation.

Conclusions

The pulse oximeter in clinical use at an academic medical center performed worse in darkly pigmented critically ill patients than established criteria for FDA clearance. Pulse oximeter testing in ICU settings is feasible, and could be required by regulators to ensure equivalent device performance by skin pigmentation among patients.

Mitigating skin tone bias in linear array in vivo photoacoustic imaging with short-lag spatial coherence beamforming

Photoacoustic (PA) imaging has the potential to deliver non-invasive diagnostic information. However, skin tone differences bias PA target visualization, as the elevated optical absorption of melanated skin decreases optical fluence within the imaging plane and increases the presence of acoustic clutter. This paper demonstrates that short-lag spatial coherence (SLSC) beamforming mitigates this bias. PA data from the forearm of 18 volunteers were acquired with 750-, 810-, and 870-nm wavelengths. Skin tones ranging from light to dark were objectively quantified using the individual typology angle (ITA° ). The signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) of the radial artery (RA) and surrounding clutter were measured. Clutter was minimal (e.g., -16 dB relative to the RA) with lighter skin tones and increased to -8 dB with darker tones, which compromised RA visualization in conventional PA images. SLSC beamforming achieved a median SNR improvement of 3.8 dB, resulting in better RA visualization for all skin tones.

Endogenous Photosensitizers in Human Skin

Endogenous photosensitizers play a critical role in both beneficial and harmful light-induced transformations in biological systems. Understanding their mode of action is essential for advancing fields such as photomedicine, photoredox catalysis, environmental science, and the development of sun care products. This review offers a comprehensive analysis of endogenous photosensitizers in human skin, investigating the connections between their electronic excitation and the subsequent activation or damage of organic biomolecules. We gather the physicochemical and photochemical properties of key endogenous photosensitizers and examine the relationships between their chemical reactivity, location within the skin, and the primary biochemical events following solar radiation exposure, along with their influence on skin physiology and pathology. An important take-home message of this review is that photosensitization allows visible light and UV-A radiation to have large effects on skin. The analysis presented here unveils potential causes for the continuous increase in global skin cancer cases and emphasizes the limitations of current sun protection approaches.

Recent Advances in Characterization of Melanin Pigments in Biological Samples

The melanin pigments eumelanin (EM) and pheomelanin (PM), which are dark brown to black and yellow to reddish-brown, respectively, are widely found among vertebrates. They are produced in melanocytes in the epidermis, hair follicles, the choroid, the iris, the inner ear, and other tissues. The diversity of colors in animals is mainly caused by the quantity and quality of their melanin, such as by the ratios of EM versus PM. We have developed micro-analytical methods to simultaneously measure EM and PM and used these to study the biochemical and genetic fundamentals of pigmentation. The photoreactivity of melanin has become a major focus of research because of the postulated relevance of EM and PM for the risk of UVA-induced melanoma. Our biochemical methods have found application in many clinical studies on genetic conditions associated with alterations in pigmentation. Recently, besides chemical degradative methods, other methods have been developed for the characterization of melanin, and these are also discussed here.

Quantitative morphometric analysis of intrinsic and extrinsic skin ageing in individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types II-III

Skin ageing is an intricate physiological process affected by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. There is a demand to understand how the skin changes with age and photoexposure in individuals with Fitzpatrick skin types I-III due to accelerated photoageing and the risk of cutaneous malignancies. To assess the structural impact of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing, we analysed 14 skin parameters from the photoprotected buttock and photoexposed dorsal forearm of young and ageing females with Fitzpatrick skin types II-III (n = 20) using histomorphic techniques. Whilst the minimum viable epidermis (Emin ) remained constant (Q > 0.05), the maximum viable epidermis (Emax ) was decreased by both age and photoexposure (Q ≤ 0.05), which suggests that differences in epidermal thickness are attributed to changes in the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). Changes in Emax were not affected by epidermal cell proliferation. For the first time, we investigated the basal keratinocyte morphology with age and photoexposure. Basal keratinocytes had an increased cell size, cellular height and a more columnar phenotype in photoexposed sites of young and ageing individuals (Q ≤ 0.05), however no significant differences were observed with age. Some of the most striking changes were observed in the DEJ, and a decrease in the interdigitation index was observed with both age and photoexposure (Q ≤ 0.001), accompanied by a decreased height of rête ridges and dermal papilla. Interestingly, young photoexposed skin was comparable to ageing skin across many parameters, and we hypothesise that this is due to accelerated photoageing. This study highlights the importance of skin care education and photoprotection from an early age.

DOPA pheomelanin is increased in nigral neuromelanin of Parkinson's disease

Neuromelanin (NM) in dopaminergic neurons of human substantia nigra (SN) has a melanic component that consists of pheomelanin and eumelanin moieties and has been proposed as a key factor contributing to dopaminergic neuron vulnerability in Parkinson's disease (PD). While eumelanin is considered as an antioxidant, pheomelanin and related oxidative stress are associated with compromised drug and metal ion binding and melanoma risk. Using postmortem SN from patients with PD or Alzheimer's disease (AD) and unaffected controls, we identified increased L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) pheomelanin and increased ratios of dopamine (DA) pheomelanin markers to DA in PD SN compared to controls. Eumelanins derived from both DOPA and DA were reduced in PD group. In addition, we report an increase in DOPA pheomelanin relative to DA pheomelanin in PD SN. In AD SN, we observed unaltered melanin markers despite reduced DOPA compared to controls. Furthermore, synthetic DOPA pheomelanin induced neuronal cell death in vitro while synthetic DOPA eumelanin showed no significant effect on cell viability. Our findings provide insights into the different roles of pheomelanin and eumelanin in PD pathophysiology. We anticipate our study will lead to further investigations on pheomelanin and eumelanin individually as biomarkers and possibly therapeutic targets for PD.

A frame-shift mutation in COMTD1 is associated with impaired pheomelanin pigmentation in chicken

The biochemical pathway regulating the synthesis of yellow/red pheomelanin is less well characterized than the synthesis of black/brown eumelanin. Inhibitor of gold (IG phenotype) is a plumage colour variant in chicken that provides an opportunity to further explore this pathway since the recessive allele (IG) at this locus is associated with a defect in the production of pheomelanin. IG/IG homozygotes display a marked dilution of red pheomelanin pigmentation, whilst black pigmentation (eumelanin) is only slightly affected. Here we show that a 2-base pair insertion (frame-shift mutation) in the 5th exon of the Catechol-O-methyltransferase containing domain 1 gene (COMTD1), expected to cause a complete or partial loss-of-function of the COMTD1 enzyme, shows complete concordance with the IG phenotype within and across breeds. We show that the COMTD1 protein is localized to mitochondria in pigment cells. Knockout of Comtd1 in a mouse melanocytic cell line results in a reduction in pheomelanin metabolites and significant alterations in metabolites of glutamate/glutathione, riboflavin, and the tricarboxylic acid cycle. Furthermore, COMTD1 overexpression enhanced cellular proliferation following chemical-induced transfection, a potential inducer of oxidative stress. These observations suggest that COMTD1 plays a protective role for melanocytes against oxidative stress and that this supports their ability to produce pheomelanin.

Induced pluripotent stem cells reprogramming overcomes technical limitations for highly pigmented adult melanocyte amplification and integration in 3D skin model

Understanding pigmentation regulations taking into account the original skin color type is important to address pigmentary disorders. Biological models including adult melanocytes from different phenotypes allow to perform fine-tuned explorative studies and support discovery of treatments adapted to populations' skin color. However, technical challenges arise when trying to not only isolate but also amplify melanocytes from highly pigmented adult skin. To bypass the initial isolation and growth of cutaneous melanocytes, we harvested and expanded fibroblasts from light and dark skin donors and reprogrammed them into iPSC, which were then differentiated into melanocytes. The resulting melanocyte populations displayed high purity, genomic stability, and strong proliferative capacity, the latter being a critical parameter for dark skin cells. The iPSC-derived melanocyte strains expressed lineage-specific markers and could be successfully integrated into reconstructed skin equivalent models, revealing pigmentation status according to the native phenotype. In both monolayer cultures and 3D skin models, the induced melanocytes demonstrated responsiveness to promelanogenic stimuli. The data demonstrate that the iPSC-derived melanocytes with high proliferative capacity maintain their pigmentation genotype and phenotypic properties up to a proper integration into 3D skin equivalents, even for highly pigmented cells.

Multiphoton FLIM Analyses of Native and UVA-Modified Synthetic Melanins

To better understand the impact of solar light exposure on human skin, the chemical characterization of native melanins and their structural photo-modifications is of central interest. As the methods used today are invasive, we investigated the possibility of using multiphoton fluorescence lifetime (FLIM) imaging, along with phasor and bi-exponential fitting analyses, as a non-invasive alternative method for the chemical analysis of native and UVA-exposed melanins. We demonstrated that multiphoton FLIM allows the discrimination between native DHI, DHICA, Dopa eumelanins, pheomelanin, and mixed eu-/pheo-melanin polymers. We exposed melanin samples to high UVA doses to maximize their structural modifications. The UVA-induced oxidative, photo-degradation, and crosslinking changes were evidenced via an increase in fluorescence lifetimes along with a decrease in their relative contributions. Moreover, we introduced a new phasor parameter of a relative fraction of a UVA-modified species and provided evidence for its sensitivity in assessing the UVA effects. Globally, the fluorescence lifetime properties were modulated in a melanin-dependent and UVA dose-dependent manner, with the strongest modifications being observed for DHICA eumelanin and the weakest for pheomelanin. Multiphoton FLIM phasor and bi-exponential analyses hold promising perspectives for in vivo human skin mixed melanins characterization under UVA or other sunlight exposure conditions.

Accuracy and clinical relevance of an automated, algorithm-based analysis of facial signs from selfie images of women in the United States of various ages, ancestries and phototypes: A cross-sectional observational study

BACKGROUND

Real-life validation is necessary to ensure our artificial intelligence (AI) skin diagnostic tool is inclusive across a diverse and representative US population of various ages, ancestries and skin phototypes.

OBJECTIVES

To explore the relevance and accuracy of an automated, algorithm-based analysis of facial signs in representative women of different ancestries, ages and phototypes, living in the same country.

METHODS

In a cross-sectional study of selfie images of 1041 US women, algorithm-based analyses of seven facial signs were automatically graded by an AI-based algorithm and by 50 US dermatologists of various profiles (age, gender, ancestry, geographical location). For automated analysis and dermatologist assessment, the same referential skin atlas was used to standardize the grading scales. The average values and their variability were compared with respect to age, ancestry and phototype.

RESULTS

For five signs, the grading obtained by the automated system were strongly correlated with dermatologists' assessments (r ≥ 0.75); cheek skin pores were moderately correlated (r = 0.63) and pigmentation signs, especially for the darkest skin tones, were weakly correlated (r = 0.40) to the dermatologist assessments. Age and ancestry had no effect on the correlations. In many cases, the automated system performed better than the dermatologist-assessed clinical grading due to 0.3-0.5 grading unit differences among the dermatologist panel that were not related to any individual characteristic (e.g. gender, age, ancestry, location). The use of phototypes, as discontinuous categorical variables, is likely a limiting factor in the assessments of grading, whether obtained by automated analysis or clinical assessment of the images.

CONCLUSIONS

The AI-based automatic procedure is accurate and clinically relevant for analysing facial signs in a diverse and inclusive population of US women, as confirmed by a diverse panel of dermatologists, although skin tone requires further improvement.

Melanogenesis and the Targeted Therapy of Melanoma

Pigment production is a unique character of melanocytes. Numerous factors are linked with melanin production, including genetics, ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and inflammation. Understanding the mechanism of melanogenesis is crucial to identify new preventive and therapeutic strategies in the treatment of melanoma. Here, we reviewed the current available literatures on the mechanisms of melanogenesis, including the signaling pathways of UVR-induced pigment production, MC1R's central determinant roles and MITF as a master transcriptional regulator in melanogenesis. Moreover, we further highlighted the role of targeting BRAF, NRAS and MC1R in melanoma prevention and treatment. The combination therapeutics of immunotherapy and targeted kinase inhibitors are becoming the newest therapeutic option in advanced melanoma.

5,6-Dihydroxyindole eumelanin content in human skin with varying degrees of constitutive pigmentation

Human skin contains two distinct components: brown to black, insoluble eumelanin and light colored, alkaline-soluble pheomelanin. Eumelanin consists of 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) moieties, while pheomelanin consists of benzothiazine (BT) and benzothiazole (BZ) moieties. These melanin monomer units can be quantitatively analyzed through specific degradation products by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Alkaline hydrogen peroxide oxidation (AHPO) of eumelanin gives rise to pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA) and pyrrole-2,3-dicarboxylic acid (PDCA) as specific degradation products of the DHICA and DHI moieties, respectively. BZ moiety in pheomelanin can be analyzed as thiazole-2,4,5-tricarboxylic acid (TTCA). By reductive hydrolysis with hydroiodic acid, BT moieties in pheomelanin can be analyzed as 4-amino-3-hydroxyphenylalanine (4-AHP). As a recently improved AHPO-HPLC method enabled a better characterization of PDCA, this prompted us to address the question of DHI to DHICA ratio in human skin samples with varying degrees of constitutive pigmentation ranging from very light to dark. Results showed for the first time the ratio of 4 moieties: DHI 35%, DHICA 41%, BZ 20%, and BT 4%. The ratio is constant regardless of the degree of pigmentation. The high content of DHICA moiety may impart an antioxidant property to the epidermis melanin.

Differential Induction of Reactive Oxygen Species and Expression of Antioxidant Enzymes in Human Melanocytes Correlate with Melanin Content: Implications on the Response to Solar UV and Melanoma Susceptibility

Constitutive pigmentation determines the response to sun exposure and the risk for melanoma, an oxidative stress-driven tumor. Using primary cultures of human melanocytes, we compared the effects of constitutive pigmentation on their antioxidant response to solar UV. The quantitation of eumelanin and pheomelanin showed that the eumelanin content and eumelanin to pheomelanin ratio correlated inversely with the basal levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Irradiation with 7 J/cm2 solar UV increased ROS generation without compromising melanocyte viability. Among the antioxidant enzymes tested, the basal levels of heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and the glutamate cysteine ligase catalytic subunit and modifier subunit (GCLC and GCLM) correlated directly with the eumelanin and total melanin contents. The levels of HO-1 and GCLM decreased at 6 h but increased at 24 h post-solar UV. Consistent with the GCLC and GCLM levels, the basal glutathione (GSH) content was significantly lower in light than in dark melanocytes. The expression of HMOX1, GCLC, GCLM, and CAT did not correlate with the melanin content and was reduced 3 h after solar UV irradiation, particularly in lightly pigmented melanocytes. Solar UV increased p53 and lipid peroxidation, which correlated inversely with the eumelanin and total melanin contents. These intrinsic differences between light and dark melanocytes should determine their antioxidant response and melanoma risk.

Development of a method for isolation of melanin from archival FFPE tissues of human melanoma for structural studies by pyrolysis-gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry

Introduction

There is some evidence that pheomelanin produced in skin melanocytes may be involved in the development of cutaneous melanoma, particularly in individuals with a light skin/red hair phenotype. However, nothing is known about possible correlation between the type and/or clinical stage of melanoma and the content of pheomelanin in the tumor tissue. We believe that archival formalin-fixed and paraffin-embedded (FFPE) melanoma tissues could be a good source of melanin pigment for future large-scale research on that issue.

Aim

The aim of this work was to develop a method for isolation and purification of melanin from FFPE samples of human melanoma. To test the suitability of the isolation protocol for planned structural studies, the obtained melanin was analyzed for pheomelanin content by the method based on pyrolysis (Py) coupled with gas chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry (GC/MS/MS).

Material and methods

For melanin isolation, microtome sections of FFPE tissue of primary lesion and lymph node metastases were subjected to a multistep procedure of paraffin removal, tissue rehydration, homogenization, and digestion with the set of proteolytic enzymes. The pigment samples were then pyrolyzed at 500 °C, and the GC-separated thermal degradation products were identified using a triple quadrupole mass spectrometer operating in the multiple reaction monitoring mode.

Results

GC/MS/MS analysis of the pyrolysis products revealed the presence of pheomelanin markers, which allowed quantitation of a pheomelanin component of each of the isolated pigments. Melanin from the FFPE primary melanoma was found to contain 6.6%, and the pigment from FFPE metastatic lymph node 7.5% of pheomelanin.

Conclusions

The developed protocol allows for the isolation of melanin from FFPE melanoma specimens. The pigment can be successfully studied for pheomelanin content by Py-GC/MS/MS method. The results of our study indicate that archival FFPE tumor tissues can be used as a good source of melanin for future structural studies aimed at shedding more light on the role of pheomelanin in the pathomechanism of cutaneous melanoma.

Virtual approach of the aesthetical fit between hair colours and skin tones in women of different ethnical origin backgrounds

OBJECTIVE

To determine the aesthetical accordance between a given skin tone and the 11 possible colours of head hairs, covered by a marketed hair colouration product.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The photographs of professional top models, representing several ancestries (non-Hispanic European and Euro-American, East Asian, Hispanic Euro-American, and African-American ancestries), were used to virtually modify skin tones (from light, medium to dark) and hair colour by an artificial intelligence (AI)-based algorithm. Hence, 117 modified photographs were then assessed by five local panels of about 60 women each (one in China, one in France and three in US). The same questionnaire was given to the panels, written in their own language, asking which and how both skin tones and hair colours fit preferentially (or not appreciated), asking in addition the reasons of their choices, using fixed wordings.

RESULTS

Answers from the five panels differed according to origin or cultural aspects, although some agreements were found among both non-Hispanic European and Euro-American groups. The Hispanic American panel in US globally much appreciated darker hair tones (HTs). Two panels (East Asian in China and African American in US) and part of non-Hispanic European panel in France declared appreciating all HTs, almost irrespective with the skin tone (light, medium and dark). This surprising result is very likely caused by gradings (in %) that differ by too low values, making the establishment of a decisive or significant assessment. By nature highly subjective (culturally and/or fashion driven), the assessments should be more viewed as trends, an unavoidable limit of the present virtual approach. The latter offers nevertheless a full respect of ethical rules as such objective could hardly be conducted in vivo: applying 10 or 11 hair colourations on the same individual is an unthinkable option.

CONCLUSION

The virtual approach developed in the present study that mixes two major facial coloured phenotypes seems at the crossroad of both genetic backgrounds and the secular desire of a modified appearance. Nonetheless, this methodology could afford, at the individual level in total confidentiality, a great help to subjects exposed to some facial skin disorders or afflictions.

In vivo melanin 3D quantification and z-epidermal distribution by multiphoton FLIM, phasor and Pseudo-FLIM analyses

Characterizing melanins in situ and determining their 3D z-epidermal distribution is paramount for understanding physiological/pathological processes of melanin neosynthesis, transfer, degradation or modulation with external UV exposure or cosmetic/pharmaceutical products. Multiphoton fluorescence intensity- and lifetime-based approaches have been shown to afford melanin detection, but how can one quantify melanin in vivo in 3D from multiphoton fluorescence lifetime (FLIM) data, especially since FLIM imaging requires long image acquisition times not compatible with 3D imaging in a clinical setup? We propose an approach combining (i) multiphoton FLIM, (ii) fast image acquisition times, and (iii) a melanin detection method called Pseudo-FLIM, based on slope analysis of autofluorescence intensity decays from temporally binned data. We compare Pseudo-FLIM to FLIM bi-exponential and phasor analyses of synthetic melanin, melanocytes/keratinocytes coculture and in vivo human skin. Using parameters of global 3D epidermal melanin density and z-epidermal distribution profile, we provide first insights into the in vivo knowledge of 3D melanin modulations with constitutive pigmentation versus ethnicity, with seasonality over 1 year and with topical application of retinoic acid or retinol on human skin. Applications of Pseudo-FLIM based melanin detection encompass physiological, pathological, or environmental factors-induced pigmentation modulations up to whitening, anti-photoaging, or photoprotection products evaluation.

Concerted variation in melanogenesis genes underlies emergent patterning of plumage in capuchino seedeaters

Coloration traits are central to animal communication; they often govern mate choice, promote reproductive isolation and catalyse speciation. Specific genetic changes can cause variation in coloration, yet far less is known about how overall coloration patterns-which involve combinations of multiple colour patches across the body-can arise and are genomically controlled. We performed genome-wide association analyses to link genomic changes to variation in melanin (eumelanin and pheomelanin) concentration in feathers from different body parts in the capuchino seedeaters, an avian radiation with diverse colour patterns despite remarkably low genetic differentiation across species. Cross-species colour variation in each plumage patch is associated with unique combinations of variants at a few genomic regions, which include mostly non-coding (presumably regulatory) areas close to known pigmentation genes. Genotype-phenotype associations can vary depending on patch colour and are stronger for eumelanin pigmentation, suggesting eumelanin production is tightly regulated. Although some genes are involved in colour variation in multiple patches, in some cases, the SNPs associated with colour changes in different patches segregate spatially. These results suggest that coloration patterning in capuchinos is generated by the modular combination of variants that regulate multiple melanogenesis genes, a mechanism that may have promoted this rapid radiation.

Melanogenesis-promoting effect of Cirsium japonicum flower extract in vitro and ex vivo

OBJECTIVE

In this study, we examined the effect of C. japonicum flower extract (CFE) on melanogenesis and its mechanism in vitro and ex vivo.

METHODS

The effect of CFE on melanogenesis was investigated with lightly (HEMn-LP) and moderately (HEMn-MP) pigmented normal human melanocytes, reconstituted three-dimensional skin (3D skin) model and ex vivo human hair follicles. The melanogenesis-inducing effect of CFE was evaluated using melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity assay. The amount and type of eumelanin and pheomelanin were analysed by using HPLC method. The mechanism involved in the effect of CFE on hyperpigmentation was explored by cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) immunoassay and western blot analysis for tyrosinase, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and phosphorylated CRE-binding protein (pCREB) expression. The degree of pigmentation in 3D skin and L-values were measured using a CR-300 chroma meter. The amount of dissolved melanin was measured using a spectrophotometer. The content of melanin in the hair follicles was evaluated by Fontana Masson staining.

RESULTS

C. japonicum flower extract significantly increased the melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity in both HEMn-LP and HEMn-MP cells. The markers of pheomelanin and eumelanin in HEMn-LP and HEMn-MP were also increased by CFE. We observed that CFE treatment on melanocytes increased intracellular cAMP with inducing pCREB and up-regulating the protein levels of TYR and MITF. Furthermore, CFE considerably increased the melanin content in a 3D skin model and ex vivo human hair follicles.

CONCLUSIONS

These results suggest that CFE exerts hyperpigmentation activity through cAMP signalling in human melanocytes that it can improve follicular depigmentation and vitiligo by stimulating the melanin synthesis.

Photobleached Oxidative Degradation of Melanins: Chemical Characterization of Melanins Present in Alpaca Fiber

In order to characterize the phenotype and to examine the effects of sun exposure on the color and structure of eumelanin (EM) and pheomelanin (PM) in alpaca fibers, we applied Soluene-350 solubilization, alkaline hydrogen peroxide oxidation (AHPO) and hydroiodic acid (HI) hydrolysis to the base and tip fibers of 20 true-black (TB) and 20 warm-black (WB) alpacas. We analyzed absorbances at 500 nm (A500) and 650 nm (A650), Free and Total pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA), 2,3,4,5-tetracarboxylic acid (PTeCA) as degradative products from EM, and 4-amino-3-hydroxyphenylalanine (4-AHP), 3-amino-4-hydroxyphenylalanine (3-AHP) and thiazole-2,4,5-tricarboxylic acid (TTCA) as degradative products from PM. We found that the ratio of PTeCA/Total PTCA increased significantly from the base to the tip in both colors of alpaca fibers, while the ratios of A650/A500 and 4-AHP/3-AHP decreased significantly. These results show that structures made of both EM and PM in alpaca fibers are modified significantly by sun exposure inducing color change. This study indicates that the ratios of A650/A500, PTeCA/Total PTCA and 4-AHP/3-AHP are highly sensitive markers of color change and photodegradation of EM and PM, respectively.

NNT mediates redox-dependent pigmentation via a UVB- and MITF-independent mechanism

Ultraviolet (UV) light and incompletely understood genetic and epigenetic variations determine skin color. Here we describe an UV- and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF)-independent mechanism of skin pigmentation. Targeting the mitochondrial redox-regulating enzyme nicotinamide nucleotide transhydrogenase (NNT) resulted in cellular redox changes that affect tyrosinase degradation. These changes regulate melanosome maturation and, consequently, eumelanin levels and pigmentation. Topical application of small-molecule inhibitors yielded skin darkening in human skin, and mice with decreased NNT function displayed increased pigmentation. Additionally, genetic modification of NNT in zebrafish alters melanocytic pigmentation. Analysis of four diverse human cohorts revealed significant associations of skin color, tanning, and sun protection use with various single-nucleotide polymorphisms within NNT. NNT levels were independent of UVB irradiation and redox modulation. Individuals with postinflammatory hyperpigmentation or lentigines displayed decreased skin NNT levels, suggesting an NNT-driven, redox-dependent pigmentation mechanism that can be targeted with NNT-modifying topical drugs for medical and cosmetic purposes.

GNAI2 Promotes Proliferation and Decreases Apoptosis in Rabbit Melanocytes

GNAI2 (G protein subunit alpha i2) is a signaling modulator or transducer, involved in several transmembrane signaling systems, that plays a vital role in the melanogenesis signaling pathway. However, whether GNAI2 regulates cell proliferation and apoptosis in rabbit melanocytes is not known. We found that GNAI2 was differentially expressed in rabbits with different coat colors using qRT-PCR and Wes assays. Furthermore, it was observed that the rabbits with black skin had the highest GNAI2 levels, and those with white skin had the lowest expression. The coding sequence of GNAI2 was successfully cloned and inserted into pcDNA3.1 and pcDNA3.1-Myc vectors. It was observed that the GNAI2 protein was mainly localized in the cytoplasm using the indirect immunofluorescence staining assay. Overexpression of GNAI2 significantly increased melanin content, promoted melanocyte proliferation, and inhibited melanocyte apoptosis. On the contrary, the knockdown of GNAI2 using siRNA had the opposite effect. In addition, GNAI2 significantly increased the mRNA expression levels of the melanin-related genes TYR, GPNMB, PMEL, and DCT in rabbit melanocytes. The results suggested that GNAI2 regulated melanocyte development by promoting melanocyte proliferation and inhibiting apoptosis.

microRNAs in the Regulation of Melanogenesis

Melanogenesis is the process leading to the synthesis of melanin, the main substance that influences skin color and plays a pivotal role against UV damage. Altered melanogenesis is observed in several pigmentation disorders. Melanogenesis occurs in specialized cells called melanocytes, physically and functionally related by means of autocrine and paracrine interplay to other skin cell types. Several external and internal factors control melanin biosynthesis and operate through different intracellular signaling pathways, which finally leads to the regulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), the key transcription factor involved in melanogenesis and the expression of the main melanogenic enzymes, including TYR, TYRP-1, and TYRP-2. Epigenetic factors, including microRNAs (miRNAs), are involved in melanogenesis regulation. miRNAs are small, single-stranded, non-coding RNAs, of approximately 22 nucleotides in length, which control cell behavior by regulating gene expression, mainly by binding the 3′ untranslated region (3′-UTR) of target mRNAs. This review collects data on the miRNAs involved in melanogenesis and how these miRNAs can modulate target gene expression. Bringing to light the biological function of miRNAs could lead to a wider understanding of epigenetic melanogenesis regulation and its dysregulation. This knowledge may constitute the basis for developing innovative treatment approaches for pigmentation dysregulation.

Photoreactivity of Hair Melanin from Different Skin Phototypes-Contribution of Melanin Subunits to the Pigments Photoreactive Properties

Photoreactivity of melanin has become a major focus of research due to the postulated involvement of the pigment in UVA-induced melanoma. However, most of the hitherto studies were carried out using synthetic melanin models. Thus, photoreactivity of natural melanins is yet to be systematically analyzed. Here, we examined the photoreactive properties of natural melanins isolated from hair samples obtained from donors of different skin phototypes (I, II, III, and V). X-band and W-band electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy was used to examine the paramagnetic properties of the pigments. Alkaline hydrogen peroxide degradation and hydroiodic acid hydrolysis were used to determine the chemical composition of the melanins. EPR oximetry and spin trapping were used to examine the oxygen photoconsumption and photo-induced formation of superoxide anion, and time-resolved near infrared phosphorescence was employed to determine the singlet oxygen photogeneration by the melanins. The efficiency of superoxide and singlet oxygen photogeneration was related to the chemical composition of the studied melanins. Melanins from blond and chestnut hair (phototypes II and III) exhibited highest photoreactivity of all examined pigments. Moreover, melanins of these phototypes showed highest quantum efficiency of singlet oxygen photogeneration at 332 nm and 365 nm supporting the postulate of the pigment contribution in UVA-induced melanoma.

Chemical and biochemical control of skin pigmentation with special emphasis on mixed melanogenesis

Melanins are widely distributed in animals and plants; in vertebrates, most melanins are present on the body surface. The diversity of pigmentation in vertebrates is mainly attributed to the quantity and ratio of eumelanin and pheomelanin synthesis. Most natural melanin pigments in animals consist of both eumelanin and pheomelanin in varying ratios, and thus, their combined synthesis is called "mixed melanogenesis." Gene expression is an established mechanism for controlling melanin synthesis; however, there are multiple factors that affect melanin synthesis besides gene expression. Due to the differential sensitivity of the eumelanin and pheomelanin synthetic pathways to pH, melanosomal pH likely plays a major role in mixed melanogenesis. Here, we focused on various factors affecting mixed melanogenesis including (1) chemical regulation of melanin synthesis, (2) melanosomal pH regulation during normal melanogenesis and effect on mixed melanogenesis, and (3) mechanisms of melanosomal pH control (proton pumps, channels, transporters, and signaling pathways).

Pharmacologic manipulation of skin pigmentation

Skin complexion is among the most recognizable phenotypes between individuals and is mainly determined by the amount and type of melanin pigment deposited in the epidermis. Persons with dark skin complexion have more of a brown/black pigment known as eumelanin in their epidermis whereas those with fair skin complexions have less. Epidermal eumelanin acts as a natural sunblock by preventing incoming UV photons from penetrating into the skin and therefore protects against UV mutagenesis. By understanding the signaling pathways and regulation of pigmentation, strategies can be developed to manipulate skin pigmentation to improve UV resistance and to diminish skin cancer risk.

Improved HPLC Conditions to Determine Eumelanin and Pheomelanin Contents in Biological Samples Using an Ion Pair Reagent

Alkaline hydrogen peroxide oxidation (AHPO) of eumelanin and pheomelanin, two major classes of melanin pigments, affords pyrrole-2,3,5-tricarboxylic acid (PTCA), pyrrole-2,3-dicarboxylic acid (PDCA) and pyrrole-2,3,4,5-tetracarboxylic acid (PTeCA) from eumelanin and thiazole-2,4,5-tricarboxylic acid (TTCA) and thiazole-4,5-dicarboxylic acid (TDCA) from pheomelanin. Quantification of these five markers by HPLC provides useful information on the quantity and structural diversity of melanins in various biological samples. HPLC analysis of these markers using the original method of 0.1 M potassium phosphate buffer (pH 2.1):methanol = 99:1 (85:15 for PTeCA) on a reversed-phase column had some problems, including the short lifetime of the column and, except for the major eumelanin marker PTCA, other markers were occasionally overlapped by interfering peaks in samples containing only trace levels of these markers. These problems can be overcome by the addition of an ion pair reagent for anions, such as tetra-n-butylammonium bromide (1 mM), to retard the elution of di-, tri- and tetra-carboxylic acids. The methanol concentration was increased to 17% (30% for PTeCA) and the linearity, reproducibility, and recovery of the markers with this improved method is good to excellent. This improved HPLC method was compared to the original method using synthetic melanins, mouse hair, human hair, and human epidermal samples. In addition to PTCA, TTCA, a major marker for pheomelanin, showed excellent correlations between both HPLC methods. The other markers showed an attenuation of the interfering peaks with the improved method. We recommend this improved HPLC method for the quantitative analysis of melanin markers following AHPO because of its simplicity, accuracy, and reproducibility.

Research Techniques Made Simple: Cutaneous Colorimetry: A Reliable Technique for Objective Skin Color Measurement

Skin color evaluation contributes to assessment of an individual's cutaneous phenotype. Skin color changes provide important clues to disease progression or treatment response. Skin color is also a predictor of skin cancer risk. Melanin pigment, blood flow, skin thickness, and photoaging contribute to skin color. Melanin, hemoglobin, bilirubin, and carotene are the primary chromophores of skin color. Their concentrations vary depending on the individual's phenotype, anatomic location, external insults of chemical irritants and UVR, and physiological changes. The evaluation and perception of skin color are often subjective. Objective quantification of skin color can be achieved with colorimetric devices such as tristimulus colorimeters. These devices compute the intensity of light reflected from skin and correlate with pigmentation and erythema. Cutaneous color and color changes can be quantified under color organization systems, such as the CIELAB color space, which is standardized by the Commission Internationale de l'Eclairage (CIE). The CIELAB expresses color's lightness, red/green intensity, and yellow/blue intensity, as L*, a*, and b* values, respectively. Additionally, skin color's full spectral characteristics and cutaneous physiology can be measured with spectrophotometers. This article outlines basic principles of the CIELAB color system and how to optimally use colorimetric devices as a skin research tool.

Dermatofluoroscopy Is Also for Redheads a Sensitive Method of Early Melanoma Detection

BACKGROUND

Caucasians with red hair and fair skin have a remarkably increased risk of malignant melanoma compared to non-redhead Caucasians.

OBJECTIVES

With the aim of a reliable melanoma diagnosis in redheads, the application of dermatofluoroscopy was analyzed in 16 patients with red hair. Most of them had been included in a clinical dermatofluoroscopy study for patients with the suspicion of melanoma. We examined whether the 25 lesions of the redheads showed the same characteristic melanin fluorescence spectra for dysplastic nevi and melanomas as those of non-redhead Caucasians or whether there was a different fluorescence pattern. This is important in view of the known significantly altered ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin in the skin of redheads.

METHODS

More than 8,000 spatially resolved fluorescence spectra of 25 pigmented lesions were measured and analysed. The spectra were excited by the stepwise absorption of two 800-nm photons (principle of dermatofluoroscopy). Furthermore, the fluorescence spectra of eumelanin and pheomelanin in hair samples were determined in the same way.

RESULTS

The evaluation revealed that the melanin fluorescence spectra of dysplastic nevi and melanomas of redheads have the same spectral characteristics as those of non-redhead Caucasians. An accompanying result is that dermatofluoroscopy shows identical fluorescence spectra for eumelanin and pheomelanin.

CONCLUSIONS

Dermatofluoroscopy proves to be a reliable diagnostic method also for redheads. Our results also explain our recent finding that there is a uniform fluorescence spectroscopic fingerprint for melanomas of all subtypes, which is of particular interest for hypomelanotic and apparently amelanotic melanomas containing pheomelanin.

The influence of iron on selected properties of synthetic pheomelanin

It is believed that while eumelanin plays photoprotective and antioxidant role in pigmented tissues, pheomelanin being more photoreactive could behave as a phototoxic agent. Although the metal ion-sequestering ability of melanin might be protective, transition metal ions present in natural melanins could affect their physicochemical properties. The aim of this research was to study iron binding by pheomelanin and analyze how such a binding affects selected properties of the melanin. Synthetic pheomelanin (CDM), prepared by enzymatic oxidation of DOPA in the presence of cysteine was analyzed by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy, spectrophotometry, chemical analysis, and time-resolved measurements of singlet oxygen phosphorescence. Iron broadened EPR signal of melanin and increased its optical absorption. Iron bound to melanin exhibited EPR signal at g = 4.3, typical for high-spin iron (III). Iron bound to melanin significantly altered the kinetics of melanin photodegradation, which in turn modified the accessibility and stability of the melanin–iron complexes as indicated by the release of iron from melanin induced by diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid and KCN. Although bound to melanin iron little affects initial stages of photodegradation of CDM, the effect of iron becomes more pronounced at later stages of melanin photolysis.

Melanogenic Difference Consideration in Ethnic Skin Type: A Balance Approach Between Skin Brightening Applications and Beneficial Sun Exposure

Human skin demonstrates a striking variation in tone and color that is evident among multiple demographic populations. Such characteristics are determined predominantly by the expression of the genes controlling the quantity and quality of melanin, which can alter significantly due to the presence of small nucleotide polymorphism affecting various steps of the melanogenesis process and generally linked to the lighter skin phenotypes. Genetically determined, constitutive skin color is additionally complemented by the facultative melanogenesis and tanning responses; with high levels of melanin and melanogenic factors broadly recognized to have a protective effect against the UVR-induced molecular damage in darker skin. Long-term sun exposure, together with a genetic makeup responsible for the ability to tan or the activity of constitutive melanogenic factors, triggers defects in pigmentation across all ethnic skin types. However, sun exposure also has well documented beneficial effects that manifest at both skin homeostasis and the systemic level, such as synthesis of vitamin D, which is thought to be less efficient in the presence of high levels of melanin or potentially linked to the polymorphism in the genes responsible for skin darkening triggered by UVR. In this review, we discuss melanogenesis in a context of constitutive pigmentation, defined by gene polymorphism in ethnic skin types, and facultative pigmentation that is not only associated with the capacity to protect the skin against photo-damage but could also have an impact on vitamin D synthesis through gene polymorphism. Modulating the activities of melanogenic genes, with the focus on the markers specifically altered by polymorphism combined with differential requirements of sun exposure in ethnic skin types, could enhance the applications of already existing skin brightening factors and provide a novel approach toward improved skin tone and health in personalized skincare.

Objective measurement and comparison of human facial skin color in East Asian females

BACKGROUND

Skin color is an important physiological index of human skin that has essential significance in cosmetology and dermatological diagnoses and aesthetics, especially in East Asian culture, where the beauty standard is the whiter the skin, the more beautiful a person is. However, there has been a lack of objective comparisons of facial skin color in East Asian females.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Skin color at the cheek site was measured in 445 healthy females, including 362 Chinese women in Beijing and 83 Japanese women in Tokyo, all aged 18-50 years. The parameters consisted of L^* , a^* , b^* , individual typology angle (ITA°), and hue angle and were determined using noninvasive skin measurement instruments.

RESULTS

The skin color categories in East Asians ranged from very light (I) to brown (V), and the dark (VI) category was not observed; the main categories were light (II), intermediate (III), and tan (IV). The facial skin color of Chinese individuals was brighter, more reddish, and less yellowish than that of Japanese individuals. With age, L* values decreased, and a* values and hue angle increased in East Asians with significant differences. Chinese women showed the same differences as Japanese women for all parameters in all age groups.

CONCLUSIONS

This study provides objective skin color measurements and examines significant differences with respect to geographic location and age.

Impairment of mixed melanin-based pigmentation in parrots

Parrots and allies (Order Psittaciformes) have evolved an exclusive capacity to synthesize polyene pigments called psittacofulvins at feather follicles, which allows them to produce a striking diversity of pigmentation phenotypes. Melanins are polymers constituting the most abundant pigments in animals, and the sulphurated form (pheomelanin) produces colors that are similar to those produced by psittacofulvins. However, the differential contribution of these pigments to psittaciform phenotypic diversity has not been investigated. Given the color redundancy, and physiological limitations associated to pheomelanin synthesis, we hypothesized that the latter would be avoided by psittaciform birds. Here we test this by using Raman spectroscopy to identify pigments in feathers exhibiting colors suspicious of being produced by pheomelanin (i.e., dull red, yellow and grey- and green-brownish) in 26 species from the three main lineages of Psittaciformes. We detected the non-sulphurated melanin form (eumelanin) in black, grey and brown plumage patches, and psittacofulvins in red, yellow and green patches, but no evidence of pheomelanin. As natural melanins are assumed to be composed of eumelanin and pheomelanin in varying ratios, our results represent the first report of impairment of mixed melanin-based pigmentation in animals. Given that psittaciforms also avoid the uptake of circulating carotenoid pigments, these birds seem to have evolved a capacity to avoid functional redundancy between pigments, likely by regulating follicular gene expression. Ours study provides the first vibrational characterization of different psittacofulvin-based colors and thus helps to determine the relative polyene chain length in these pigments, which is related to their antireductant protection activity.

High SLC7A11 expression in normal skin of melanoma patients

BACKGROUND

Melanoma is one of the highest metastatic cancers and its incidence is rapidly increasing. A great effort has been devoted to determine gene mutations and expression profiles in melanoma cells, but less attention has been given to the possible influence of melanin synthesis in melanocytes on melanomagenesis. SLC7A11 encodes the cystine/glutamate antiporter xCT and its expression increases the antioxidant capacity of cells by providing cysteine that may be used for glutathione (GSH) synthesis. Melanocytes, however, can also use cysteine for pheomelanin synthesis and pigmentation. Therefore, pheomelanin synthesis may lead to chronic oxidative stress. Possible consequences of this for melanomagenesis have never been explored.

METHODS

We quantified the expression of SLC7A11 and other genes that are involved in the synthesis of pheomelanin but do not regulate the transport of cysteine from the extracellular medium to the cytosol (CTNS, MC1R, ASIP and SLC45A2) in non-tumorous skin of 45 patients of cutaneous melanoma and 50 healthy individuals. We controlled for the effects of Fitzpatrick skin type, age, gender, body mass, frequency of sun exposure and sunburns and number of melanocytic nevi, as well as for the intrinsic antioxidant capacity as given by the expression of the gene NFE2L2.

RESULTS

The expression of SLC7A11, but not of the other genes, was significantly higher in melanoma patients than in healthy individuals. This was independent of phenotypic factors and antioxidant capacity, thus supporting an effect of pheomelanin-induced oxidative stress on melanomagenesis.

CONCLUSION

Our findings indicate that SLC7A11 downregulation in normal epidermal melanocytes may represent a preventive treatment against melanoma.

Effects of Aging on Hair Color, Melanosome Morphology, and Melanin Composition in Japanese Females

In a previous study, we showed that the size of melanosomes isolated from Japanese female hairs enlarges with age, and this affects the hair color. In this study, we analyzed the age-dependent changes in hair melanin in order to further explore the factors related to hair color changing by aging. A significant positive correlation with age was found in the total melanin amount (TM) and the mol% of 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) units, while no correlation was found in pheomelanin mol%. TM showed significant correlations with hair color parameters and the melanosome volume, suggesting that hair color darkening by aging is caused by the increase in TM due to the enlargement of the size of melanosome. From the measurement of absorbance spectra on synthetic eumelanins with different ratios of DHI and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA), we found that the increase in DHI mol% also contributes to the darkening of hair color by aging. In addition, the level of pyrrole-2,3-dicarboxylic acid (PDCA), a marker of DHI melanin, showed a significant negative correlation with the aspect ratio of melanosome, suggesting a contribution of DHI melanin to the change in melanosome morphology by aging.