Influence of visible light on cutaneous hyperchromias: Clinical efficacy of broad-spectrum sunscreens

Methods for skin image analysis and their applications in dermatology and cosmetic research: a comprehensive review

INTRODUCTION

In recent years, several non-invasive imaging methods have been introduced to facilitate studies in dermatology and cosmetic research, almost completely replacing invasive methods such as biopsy. Imaging devices have proven to be useful tools in skin analysis and therapy monitoring. This review aimed to investigate the most recent studies in cosmetic dermatology the imaging technology and methods that are being used to assess skin characteristics and summarize its fundamentals, possible applications, advantages, and limitations, and to give a future perspective to the clinical trials.

EVIDENCE ACQUISITION

For that, a literature review was carried out in the main scientific database platforms and the studies associating skin image analysis with dermatology and cosmetic research were selected and discussed.

EVIDENCE SYNTHESIS

It was possible to infer that skin image analyses are not only practical and effective, but have also become increasingly essential for the skin sciences. The in vivo and real-time image analyses allow a more complete evaluation and the follow-up of the same region for different periods. It was also possible to observe that macroscopic, microscopic, and mesoscopic imaging methods are complementary, allowing different approaches in the same study.

CONCLUSIONS

These technologies are expected to evolve more and more quickly in the near future.

Guide to tinted sunscreens in skin of color

Disorders of hyperpigmentation, such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, disproportionately affect skin of color and have a profound impact on quality of life. Exposure to ultraviolet light (UVL) is a well-documented factor in these disorders. However, recent studies show that visible light (VL) is a significant and underrecognized contributor to hyperpigmentation, especially in skin of color. Our objective is to review the role of VL in disorders of hyperpigmentation and that of tinted sunscreens in protecting against VL. Tinted sunscreens containing iron oxides should be recommended over nontinted sunscreens for patients prone to disorders of hyperpigmentation, as iron oxides protect against VL in addition to UVL. Tinted sunscreens are more effective than nontinted sunscreens in preventing melasma relapses and reducing hyperpigmentation, and they may also enhance the depigmenting efficacy of topical hydroquinone. In the search for an ideal tinted sunscreen for a particular patient, several factors must be considered, including a broad spectrum with adequate coverage of both UVL and VL, tint, formulation texture, active ingredients, and cost. VL is increasingly recognized as a major contributor of hyperpigmentation, and adequate treatment for disorders of hyperpigmentation should include protection against VL. Tinted sunscreens are ideal but require consideration of cosmesis, efficacy, and affordability.

Awareness of sun exposure risks and photoprotection for preventing pigmentary disorders in Asian populations: Survey results from three Asian countries and expert panel recommendations

BACKGROUND

In this article, we review and discuss the photoprotection behavior of Asians based on the literature, along with a subanalysis of an original online survey, and make recommendations to optimize photoprotection for Asian populations to prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

METHODS

An international panel of eight dermatologists from Asia (China, Korea, Japan, Singapore, Indonesia, and Vietnam) met to discuss sunscreen photoprotection for Asian patients. Additionally, a subanalysis of an online survey by 3000 respondents from three Asian countries (China, Indonesia, and Japan) investigated general public awareness and attitudes to sun exposure.

RESULTS

A pre-meeting survey of the eight experts from Asia showed key concerns of Asian patients consulting dermatologists are pigmentary disorders, especially actinic/senile lentigo, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, vitiligo, and Hori's nevus. The survey subanalysis of participants from China, Indonesia, and Japan with predominantly Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) II to IV revealed that they are particularly concerned about sun exposure causing photoaging and pigmentary disorders. Most of the respondents indicated they have limited knowledge on sunlight radiation and appropriate sunscreen protection factors. Only 22%, 13%, and 3% for China, Indonesia, and Japan, respectively, systematically use multiple protective measures (using sunscreen, avoiding midday sun, staying in the shade, wearing a hat, protective clothing, and sunglasses) when exposed to the sun.

CONCLUSIONS

Further education is needed for Asian populations on the importance of comprehensive daily photoprotection, including broad-spectrum sunscreen, with high UVA and visible light protection, to reduce and prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

Cutaneous interaction with visible light: What do we know?

Visible light has been used therapeutically in dermatology for years for a variety of cosmetic and medical indications, including skin rejuvenation and the treatment of inflammatory and neoplastic conditions, among others. Until recently, visible light was thought to be relatively inert compared to its spectral neighbors, ultraviolet and infrared radiation. However, recent literature has described the ability of visible light to cause erythema in light skin and pigmentary changes in individuals with darker skin types. Concern surrounding its potentially damaging cutaneous effects has been raised in both the medical community and social media outlets. In this article, we provide an evidenced-based review describing what is currently known about visible light, focusing on its role in dermatologic diseases including disorders of hyperpigmentation such as melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Sunscreens: Misconceptions and Misinformation

Over the past 70 years sunscreens have evolved from "beach products" designed to prevent sunburn to more cosmetically elegant skincare products intended to protect against multiple longterm adverse consequences of characteristically low intensity daily ultraviolet and visible light exposure. Sunscreen testing and labeling intended to quantify such protection are unfortunately often misunderstood by users and have also led to illegal misleading and potentially dangerous industry practices. Changes in regulatory requirements, better policing, and more informative sunscreen labeling would benefit users and their physician advisors.

Photoprotection for people with skin of colour: needs and strategies

Skin of colour or pigmented skin has unique characteristics: it has a higher eumelanin-to-pheomelanin ratio, more mature melanosomes, an increased amount of melanin distributed in the upper layers of the epidermis, and more efficient DNA repair compared with lighter skin. However, individuals with skin of colour are at a significant risk of skin damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, including the development of photodermatoses and photoageing changes such as uneven skin tone, and are predisposed to pigmentary disorders. In fact, one of the most common conditions leading to dermatology consultations by patients with skin of colour is photoexacerbated pigmentary disorders. Unfortunately, individuals with skin of colour may be less prone to engage in photoprotective measures, including the use of sunscreens. Physicians are also less likely to prescribe sunscreens for them. There is thus a clear need for better education on photodamage and for more efficient and suitable photoprotection in populations with skin of colour. However, this need has thus far only partially been met, and the development of sunscreen products designed to provide optimal photoprotection for people with skin of colour remains a challenge. Targeted sunscreens for individuals with skin of colour require optimal cosmetic appeal (leaving no white residue and not disrupting skin tone). They should include broad-spectrum [ultraviolet (UV)B/UVA] protection with high sun protection factor, as well as protection against long-wave UVA (UVA1) and visible light, as these wavelengths are capable of inducing or augmenting pigmentary disorders. They may also contain depigmenting agents for patients with pigmentary disorders.

Hydrolipidic Characteristics and Clinical Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Formulation for the Improvement of Homeostasis on Oily Mature Skin

BACKGROUND

Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development of more effective treatments for this skin type. In this context, the study aimed to evaluate the hydrophilic characteristics and the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for mature skin added with alfalfa and lentil extracts by using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.

METHODS

Twenty-eight healthy females aged between 45 and 59 years were enrolled. Measurements of the stratum corneum water content, sebum content, transepidermal water loss, skin microrelief, and pores count were performed before and after the 28-day formulation application.

RESULTS

The mature skin presented as oily with wrinkles and pores. The proposed formulation significantly reduced the sebum content and the number of fine and large pores and improved skin microrelief and hydration after a 28-day period of the application when compared to the vehicle.

CONCLUSIONS

The proposed formulation was effective in oily mature skin treatment, improving its general skin aging and oiliness conditions, and reducing pores count in just 28 days.

The Damaging Effects of Long UVA (UVA1) Rays: A Major Challenge to Preserve Skin Health and Integrity

Within solar ultraviolet (UV) light, the longest UVA1 wavelengths, with significant and relatively constant levels all year round and large penetration properties, produce effects in all cutaneous layers. Their effects, mediated by numerous endogenous chromophores, primarily involve the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The resulting oxidative stress is the major mode of action of UVA1, responsible for lipid peroxidation, protein carbonylation, DNA lesions and subsequent intracellular signaling cascades. These molecular changes lead to mutations, apoptosis, dermis remodeling, inflammatory reactions and abnormal immune responses. The altered biological functions contribute to clinical consequences such as hyperpigmentation, inflammation, photoimmunosuppression, sun allergies, photoaging and photocancers. Such harmful impacts have also been reported after the use of UVA1 phototherapy or tanning beds. Furthermore, other external aggressors, such as pollutants and visible light (Vis), were shown to induce independent, cumulative and synergistic effects with UVA1 rays. In this review, we synthetize the biological and clinical effects of UVA1 and the complementary effects of UVA1 with pollutants or Vis. The identified deleterious biological impact of UVA1 contributing to clinical consequences, combined with the predominance of UVA1 rays in solar UV radiation, constitute a solid rational for the need for a broad photoprotection, including UVA1 up to 400 nm.

Evaluation of efficacy of antioxidant-enriched sunscreen prodcuts against long wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light

OBJECTIVE

The synergistic effects of VL and long wavelength UVA1 (VL+UVA1, 370-700 nm) on inducing pigmentation and erythema in skin have been demonstrated and linked to exacerbation of dermatologic conditions including melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. This study aims to compare the photoprotection of organic sunscreens enriched with antioxidant (AO) combinations against VL+UVA1 induced biologic effects. The efficacy was compared to that offered by a commercially available tinted sunscreen.

METHODS

Ten healthy adult subjects with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV-VI were enrolled (nine completed). VL+UVA1 dose of 380 J/cm² was utilized. Assessment methods were polarized photography, investigator global scoring, and diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS). Measurements were obtained at baseline and immediately, 24 hours, and 7 days after irradiation.

RESULTS

Sites treated with tinted sunscreen product had significantly less pigmentation compared with untreated but irradiated skin at all time points. However, DRS results demonstrated that the 5-AO sunscreen performed comparably or better than all sunscreens tested with relatively lower dyschromia, delayed erythema and pigmentation.

CONCLUSION

These results highlight the potential of AO enriched sunscreens to be photoprotective against VL+UVA1. The combination of efficacy and the cosmetic appearance of this product may provide wider acceptability which is crucial considering the limited available means of protection against this waveband.

A new in vitro method to predict in vivo photoprotection of skin hyperpigmentation induced by visible light

Background

Ultraviolet radiation is the main cause of skin pigmentation, but more recently visible light has been shown to be an important contributor especially in melano‐competent subjects. Photoprotection from visible light can improve several hyperpigmentation disorders. Recently, a visible light photoprotection assessment method has been proposed based on in vivo pigmentation; the visible light photoprotection factor (VL‐PF) is determined by assessment of the change in colorimetry parameter ITA over several days measured using a chromameter. Although in vivo methods remain the most representative of real life, in vitro methods are more suited to screening sunscreen formulations.

Objective

The aim of this study was to evaluate the correlation between in vivo and in vitro methods in assessing protection against visible light induced pigmentation.

Methods

We first analysed the in vitro protective properties of the 10 commercially available sunscreens using transmission measurements in the visible spectrum. Then, we performed a monocentric, double‐blind, randomized controlled study with intra‐individual comparisons in 20 healthy subjects and measure the VL‐PF in vivo of those sunscreens. The correlation between the VL‐PF and the percentage of blocked light was evaluated using the coefficient of determination R².

Results

A strong significant correlation was demonstrated between in vivo visible light protection factor and in vitro transmittance measurements, with the highest correlation factor at 420 nm and in the spectrum covering from 400 to 469 nm.

Conclusion

Transmittance measurements were found to be a good predictive tool to evaluate sunscreen visible light photoprotection efficacy and could be used to select formulations for final in vivo testing.

A new visible light absorbing organic filter offers superior protection against pigmentation by wavelengths at the UVR-visible boundary region

Skin pigmentation by solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR; ~295-400 nm) is well established. More recently, visible light (VL; 400-740 nm) has been shown to induce rapid pigmentation. Such pigmentation is thought to be caused by oxidative stress, which has associations with skin cancer and photoageing. However, the UVR-VL boundary region has been less well studied. The lower back of healthy Fitzpatrick skin type II-IV individuals was irradiated with increasing doses of narrow-band 385 nm and 405 nm radiation. Pigmentation change was measured immediately, 6 h and 24 h post-irradiation using two reflectance spectroscopy devices and visual grading. Pigmentation was dose-dependently increased in all skin types and time points for both spectra. Two sunscreens, both labelled SPF 15 and UVA protective in the EU and USA (but with different Boots star rating in the UK, 2* vs 5*) were compared. Their formulations were the same apart from the addition of a new organic filter bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine (BDBP) that absorbs between 350 and 425 nm. The product that lacked BDBP provided minimal protection against pigmentation, but its addition provided almost complete protection. This demonstrates the needs to improve photoprotection at the UVR-visible border and for sunscreens to act as neutral density filters.

Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB), a new sunfilter protecting the skin against both UVB + UVA and blue light radiations

Sunlight induces actinic keratosis, skin cancers and photoaging. Photoprotection is thus a major issue in public health to prevent the harmful effects of solar ultraviolet (UV) radiations. Recent data have shown that the visible (VIS) and infrared (IR) radiations can lead to skin damage by oxidative stress, suggesting that a balanced protection across the entire spectrum of sunlight is necessary to prevent cutaneous alterations. In this context, we developed a new generation of sunfilter called Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine or TriAsorB (CAS N°55514-22-2). The aim of the present study was to assess the photoprotective efficacy of TriAsorB from UV to IR light. Spectrophotometric assays were performed to measure absorption and reflectance of TriAsorB in the different spectral ranges of sunlight: UV, VIS including blue light or high energy visible (HEV) and IR. DNA damage was evaluated using reconstructed human epidermis (RHE): 8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine (8OHdG) in response to HEV exposure, pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and (6-4) photoproducts following solar-simulated radiation (SSR). TriAsorB is a broad spectrum UVB + UVA filter including long UVA. Interestingly, it also absorbs VIS radiations, especially in the HEV region. These radiations are also reflected. Protection in the IR spectral range is weak. Furthermore, the sunfilter specifically protects the skin against the oxidative lesions 8OHdG induced by HEV and prevents SSR-induced DNA damage. Thus, TriAsorB is an innovative sunfilter that might be used in sun care products for skin photoprotection from UV to VIS radiations. Finally, it prevents sunlight genotoxicity and protected the skin against solar radiations, especially blue light.

Photoprotection of the Skin from Visible Light‒Induced Pigmentation: Current Testing Methods and Proposed Harmonization

Visible light (VL) can induce pigmentary alterations, especially in dark-skinned individuals, and exacerbate photodermatoses and pigmentary disorders. Currently, there is no standardized method for assessing sunscreen protection against VL. On the basis of a critical review of published in vitro and in vivo methods, a VL photoprotection assessment method based on pigmentation is proposed.

Clinical and biological impact of the exposome on the skin

The skin exposome is defined as the totality of environmental exposures over the life course that can induce or modify various skin conditions. Here, we review the impact on the skin of solar exposure, air pollution, hormones, nutrition and psychological factors. Photoageing, photocarcinogenesis and pigmentary changes are well-established consequences of chronic exposure of the skin to solar radiation. Exposure to traffic-related air pollution contributes to skin ageing. Particulate matter and nitrogen dioxide cause skin pigmentation/lentigines, while ozone causes wrinkles and has an impact on atopic eczema. Human skin is a major target of hormones, and they exhibit a wide range of biological activities on the skin. Hormones decline with advancing age influencing skin ageing. Nutrition has an impact on numerous biochemical processes, including oxidation, inflammation and glycation, which may result in clinical effects, including modification of the course of skin ageing and photoageing. Stress and lack of sleep are known to contribute to a pro-inflammatory state, which, in turn, affects the integrity of extracellular matrix proteins, in particular collagen. Hormone dysregulation, malnutrition and stress may contribute to inflammatory skin disorders, such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, acne and rosacea.

Photoprotection according to skin phototype and dermatoses: practical recommendations from an expert panel

Increasing evidence on the impact of the different wavelengths of sunlight on the skin demonstrates the need for tailored recommendations of sunscreen according to skin phototype and dermatoses, which is now possible due to advances in the filters and formulations of sunscreens. A selective literature search was performed by an international expert panel, focusing on the type of sunscreen to recommend for photoaging, skin cancers, photodermatoses, pigmentary disorders and skin inflammatory disorders. Protection against ultraviolet (UV)B is especially important for light skin as there is a high risk of sunburn, DNA damage and skin cancers. Darker skin may be naturally better protected against UVB but is more prone to hyperpigmentation induced by visible light (VL) and UVA. Protection against UVA, VL and infrared A can be helpful for all skin phototypes as they penetrate deeply and cause photoaging. Long‐wave UVA1 plays a critical role in pigmentation, photoaging, skin cancer, DNA damage and photodermatoses. Adapting the formulation and texture of the sunscreen to the type of skin and dermatoses is also essential. Practical recommendations on the type of sunscreen to prescribe are provided to support the clinician in daily practice.

Daily photoprotection to prevent photoaging

BACKGROUND

Extrinsic skin aging or photoaging was previously thought to be almost exclusively due to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, recent literature has described other contributing factors and clarification is thus required as to what extent and what type of daily photoprotection is needed to mitigate extrinsic skin aging.

METHODS

We reviewed the existing scientific evidence on daily photoprotection, and specific requirements at the product level, to prevent extrinsic skin aging. We critically reviewed the existing evidence on potential ecological and toxicological risks which might be associated with daily photoprotection.

RESULTS

Evidence shows that broad protection against the entire solar range of UVB, UVA, UVA1, visible light, and short infrared (IRA) is required to prevent extrinsic aging. Other exposome factors, such as air pollution and smoking, also contribute to skin aging. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen photoprotection should thus contain antioxidant ingredients for additional benefits against UV, IRA, and pollution-induced oxidative stress as well as anti-aging active ingredients to provide clinical benefits against skin aging signs, such as wrinkles and dark spots. Broad-spectrum sunscreen containing pigments, such as iron oxide, may be required for melasma prevention. There is no conclusive clinical evidence that daily sunscreen use is unsafe or that it compromises vitamin D synthesis.

CONCLUSION

Daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen containing antioxidant and anti-aging active ingredients can effectively reduce extrinsic aging.

Visible light. Part II: Photoprotection against visible and ultraviolet light

Cutaneous photobiology studies have focused primarily on the ultraviolet portion of the solar spectrum. Visible light (VL), which comprises 50% of the electromagnetic radiation that reaches the Earth's surface and, as discussed in Part I of this CME, has cutaneous biologic effects, such as pigment darkening and erythema. Photoprotection against VL includes avoiding the sun, seeking shade, and using photoprotective clothing. The organic and inorganic ultraviolet filters used in sunscreens do not protect against VL, only tinted sunscreens do. In the United States, these filters are regulated by the Food and Drug Administration as an over-the-counter drug and are subject to more stringent regulations than in Europe, Asia, and Australia. There are no established guidelines regarding VL photoprotection. Alternative measures to confer VL photoprotection are being explored. These novel methods include topical, oral, and subcutaneous agents. Further development should focus on better protection in the ultraviolet A1 (340-400 nm) and VL ranges while enhancing the cosmesis of the final products.

[Sun-damaged skin (photoaging): what is new?]

Skin aging results from the interaction of genetic and nongenetic so-called exposomal, factors. Among the exposomal factors, chronic, life-long exposure to sunlight is of eminent importance for the development of skin aging characteristics. Importantly, photoaging of human skin is not only caused by ultraviolet (UV) B and A radiation, but is also the consequence of exposure to wavelengths beyond the UV spectrum. These include visible, i.e. blue light (400-440 nm) as well as the short part of infrared radiation, i.e. IRA (760-1200 nm). Here we summarize the scientific evidence supporting these conclusions and emphasize the resulting consequences for daily photoprotection of human skin. We also explain the clinical significance of the concept that is offered by the skin aging exposome, which e.g. takes into account the fact that sunlight interacts with other exposomal factors and that this interaction is important for photoaging of the skin.

Efficacy of topical antioxidants in the skin hyperpigmentation control: A clinical study by reflectance confocal microscopy

BACKGROUND

Some in vitro studies have reported the potential of antioxidants for the reduction of melanogenesis. However, it is important to assess the clinical efficacy of these substances in reducing skin hyperpigmentation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations based on antioxidants using Reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM).

METHODS

Thirty-two healthy females aged 39-55 years were enrolled and divided into four groups: Vehicle (V), V with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), V with Spirulina sp., and V with hydroxytyrosol-titrated olive extract. Imaging analyses by high-resolution methods and RCM were performed in the malar region of the face before and after a 42-day period of application of the studied formulations.

RESULTS

Reflectance confocal microscopy imaging analyses showed a significant reduction of number of hyperreflective pixels and basal layer brightness after 42 days of application of formulations containing the antioxidants compared to vehicle and baseline values, suggesting an improvement of the skin pigmentation pattern.

CONCLUSION

Reflectance confocal microscopy permitted the identification of skin hyperpigmentation and the assessment of the clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations based on antioxidants in a noninvasive way. All formulations containing antioxidants significantly reduced skin hyperpigmentation after the period of application.

Photoprotection beyond ultraviolet radiation: A review of tinted sunscreens

Ultraviolet radiation and visible light both have biologic effects on the skin. Visible light can induce erythema in light-skinned individuals and pigmentation in dark-skinned individuals. Broad-spectrum sunscreens protect against ultraviolet radiation but do not adequately protect against visible light. For a sunscreen to protect against visible light, it must be visible on the skin. Inorganic filters (also known as mineral filters), namely, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, are used in the form of nanoparticles in sunscreens to minimize the chalky and white appearance on the skin; as such, they do not protect against visible light. Tinted sunscreens use different formulations and concentrations of iron oxides and pigmentary titanium dioxide to provide protection against visible light. Many shades of tinted sunscreens are available by combining different amounts of iron oxides and pigmentary titanium dioxide to cater to all skin phototypes. Therefore, tinted sunscreens are beneficial for patients with visible light-induced photodermatoses and those with hyperpigmentation disorders such as melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Visible light in photodermatology

Until recently, visible light (VL) had been regarded to be without significant photobiologic effect on the skin. Updated research suggests that this is not the case and the measurable effect of visible light on the skin is being documented in all skin types. Recent studies have demonstrated that in dark-skinned individuals, visible light can induce more intense and longer lasting pigmentation of the skin compared to UVA1. This effect was potentiated when VL was combined with a small percentage of ultraviolet A1 radiation (UVA1). Further, the combination of VL + UVA1 was also able to induce erythema in light-skinned individuals, a novel finding since the erythemogenic spectrum of sunlight had primarily been attributed to ultraviolet B (UVB) and short wavelength UVA (320-340 nm). Based on these findings, VL and UVA1 may also potentially play a role in conditions aggravated by sun exposure such as phototoxicity in light-skinned patients and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma, especially in dark-skinned individuals. Currently available organic (chemical) UV filters are not sufficient to protect the skin from the effect of VL. VL is emerging as a key player in photodermatology and additional research is needed on the cutaneous effects of VL, as well as the development of filters and other means of photoprotection against the harmful effects of the VL spectrum. The aim of this manuscript is to review the literature on the cutaneous effects of VL as well as to highlight areas of dermatology where VL may play an important role.

High-energy visible light at ambient doses and intensities induces oxidative stress of skin-Protective effects of the antioxidant and Nrf2 inducer Licochalcone A in vitro and in vivo

BACKGROUND

Solar radiation causes skin damage through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). While UV filters effectively reduce UV-induced ROS, they cannot prevent VIS-induced (400-760 nm) oxidative stress. Therefore, potent antioxidants are needed as additives to sunscreen products.

METHODS

We investigated VIS-induced ROS formation and the photoprotective effects of the Nrf2 inducer Licochalcone A (LicA).

RESULTS

Visible spectrum of 400-500 nm dose-dependently induced ROS in cultured human fibroblasts at doses equivalent to 1 hour of sunshine on a sunny summer day (150 J/cm² ). A pretreatment for 24 hours with 1 µmol/L LicA reduced ROS formation to the level of unirradiated cells while UV filters alone were ineffective, even at SPF50+. In vivo, topical treatment with a LicA-containing SPF50 + formulation significantly prevented the depletion of intradermal carotenoids by VIS irradiation while SPF50 + control did not protect.

CONCLUSION

LicA may be a useful additive antioxidant for sunscreens.

A novel method for evaluating sun visible light protection factor and pigmentation protection factor of sunscreens

Introduction

The role of visible light (VL) in the process of skin pigmentation by solar radiation has been demonstrated. Sunscreens with the presence of pigments, particularly iron oxide (IO), have a greater protective effect against VL and are, therefore, highly recommended for prevention and treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders. This study aimed to evaluate 33 sunscreen formulations, and through spectrophotometric measurements, proposes new methods to evaluate the VL protection factor and the pigmentation protection factor.

Methods

33 sunscreen formulations marketed in Brazil were evaluated, including 17 products containing pigments and 16 products with no pigments. Spectrophotometric measurements were taken to determine solar VL protection factor and the pigmentation protection factor, based on the absorption curve of the product, the pigmentation action spectrum and sun spectrum.

Results

Sunscreen with pigments presented a higher solar VL protection factor and pigmentation protection factor compared to products without pigment. The statistical analysis showed a strong correlation between the solar VL protection factor and the integral of the absorption curve in the VL range and the transmittance reduction (%) in the same range. The correlation between the VL protection factor and the pigmentation protection factor was also demonstrated.

Conclusion

The VL protection factor and the pigmentation protection factor showed to be adequate metrics to estimate the effectiveness of sunscreens in the prevention of the pigmentary effect of solar VL and the pigmentary effect of the complete spectrum of immediate pigmentation.

Use of Advanced Imaging Techniques for the Characterization of Oily Skin

Excessively oily skin leads to clinical signs that cause discomfort to patients, such as excessive shine, enlarged pores, acne, and an imbalance of the hydrolipidic layer. In this context, a constant demand for the research and development of products that prevent these features, has been noted in the field of cosmetics and dermatology. Thus, the objective of this study is to evaluate the cutaneous characteristics of oily skin due an excessive production of sebum through biophysical and skin imaging techniques. 19 participants with different skin types were selected and the following parameters were evaluated: pore count, determination of the number of sebaceous glands and amount of sebum in infundibulum, determination of cutaneous microrelief, count of comedones, evaluation of epidermis thickness, characterization of the cellular, and comedone size and its characteristics. These evaluations were done through biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The obtained results showed that different regions of the face presented different characteristics related to oiliness, quantity, and the appearance of pores and comedones. The malar region had a lower epidermis thickness and a larger number of large pores. Moreover, in this region excessive sebum production, which can be related to pores, not comedones, was noted. The nose region presented higher sebum content in the infundibulum and lower active sebaceous glands, showing a higher activity of sebaceous production in this region. The chin region presented a positive correlation between the sebum content, roughness parameter and the number of pores and comedones. As different skin properties are related and influence the appearance of undesirable clinical signs, we identified the need for a multifactorial approach for the effective treatment of oily skin. The rational development of multifunctional cosmetic products that promote the control of oily skin, that regulate the keratinization process, improve the microrelief and leads to a better epidermis and dermis structure, will not only improve oily skin conditions but will also allow for the reduction or disappearance of clinical signs that result from excessive oiliness, all of which causes concern and results in a relentless search for cosmetic and dermatological products that address the unaesthetic nature of these conditions.