Daily photoprotection to prevent photoaging

Role of sRNAs protein molecules in extracellular vesicles derived from Lactobacillus plantarum rejuvenate against ultraviolet B-induced photoaging in human keratinocytes

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation accelerates the aging process of skin cells by triggering oxidative stress and inflammatory responses. The aim of this study was to investigate the mechanism of action of sRNAs and protein molecules in the regenerative extracellular vesicles of Lactobacillus plantarum against the UVB-induced photoaging process of human keratinocytes. The extracellular vesicles regenerated by Lactobacillus plantarum were isolated and purified to identify sRNAs and protein components. Human keratinocytes were treated with UVB radiation to simulate the photoaging model. The effects of different concentrations of vesicle extract on cell survival rate, oxidative stress index and inflammatory marker expression were evaluated in control group and treatment group. The results showed that the regenerated extracellular vesicles of L. plantarum significantly improved the survival rate of keratinocytes after UVB radiation, and delayed the aging process of skin cells by reducing oxidative stress and inhibiting inflammatory response.

Anti-photoaging effect and the mechanism of Coreopsis tinctoria okanin against UVB-induced skin damage in mice

Long-term exposure to ultraviolet radiation may cause photoaging of skin tissues. Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt. riches a variety of flavonoids with strong antioxidant activities. In the present study, the main antioxidant flavonoid was isolated from C. tinctoria and identified as okanin by Mass spectrum and Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy. Okanin was found to effectively reduce the malondialdehyde content, increase various intracellular antioxidant enzyme activities, relieve epidermal hyperplasia and dermal damage caused by UVB irradiation, and increase the collagen fibers' content in the dorsal skin tissue of mice. Immunohistochemical analysis showed that okanin effectively counteracted the photoaging effect of UVB-induced by down-regulating IL-1, IL-6, TNF-α, and COX-2, and up-regulating COL-1, COL-3, and HYP expression. In addition, okanin can inhibit skin photoaging by regulating TNF-β/Smad2-3, MAPK, P13K/AKT, and NF-κB signaling pathways. In particular, the three key markers of photoaging, MMP (MMP-1/-3/-9), were down-regulated and five collagen synthesis genes (COL1A1, COL3A1, COL5A2, COL6A1, and COL7A1) were up-regulated, underlines the direct anti-photoaging mechanism of okanin in preventing collagen degradation and promoting collagen synthesis. The current investigation provides new insights into the great potential of okanin in alleviating skin photoaging and lays theoretical references for the development ofanti-photoaging products.

Combined multilevel anti-aging strategies and practical applications of dermocosmetics in aesthetic procedures

Management of the signs of facial aging and other cosmetic skin problems have greatly evolved in the past years. People are also seeking to improve their well-being and global skin appearance, and when they consider using cosmetic procedures, they expect natural and long-lasting aesthetic results. Combined dermocosmetic approaches that address the signs of facial aging at all levels are increasingly being used by dermatologists to meet patient expectations while ensuring their safety. Minimally invasive and reversible procedures that can be performed in only one session are popular approaches for skin restructuring and volumizing as they are flexible, rapid and less burdensome for patients. These interventions can achieve even better outcomes when they are combined with cosmeceuticals as pre- or post-procedural adjuvants to prepare the skin, accelerate recovery and sustain results. The use of topical dermocosmetics is also recommended as part of the daily skin care routine to improve skin quality and help maintain skin barrier function. This review thus outlines the most commonly used combined multilevel anti-aging strategies, which start by addressing the deepest skin layers and then the more superficial signs of skin aging. Examples of multi-active cosmeceuticals and skin delivery enhancing systems are also presented, together with examples of the use of dermocosmetics as supportive care for aesthetic procedures, to provide insights into current applications of dermocosmetic products.

Photoaging and cosmeceutical solutions in sun-overexposed countries: The experience of Australia and Brazil

Skin aging is the result of physiological changes determined by genetically driven processes and intrinsic factors, and exacerbated by a combination of multiple environmental factors, the main one being sun exposure. The effects of photoaging are particularly apparent on the face, where the appearance of aging signs can have a significant impact on the emotions conveyed and well-being. Photoprotection and facial skin care for managing photoaging signs are thus of particular importance for both physical and mental health. Countries, like Australia and Brazil, where the level of sun exposure is high and the populations have predominantly outdoor lifestyles, are particularly aware of the harms of photoaging and have implemented several measures to help reduce the risk of skin cancer in their populations. However, sun-seeking behaviours are difficult to change, and it takes time before interventions provide perceptible results. Australia still has some of the highest skin cancer incidence and mortality rates in the world. Solutions that target individuals can also be used for minimizing the clinical signs of facial aging and for improving skin quality, with the ultimate aim being not only to improve the appearance of the skin but also to mitigate the occurrence of pre-malignant and malignant lesions. This review summarizes the features of facial skin photoaging in photo-exposed populations, based on evidence gained from studies of Australian individuals, and discusses the various available solutions for skin photoaging, in particular those that are most popular in Brazil, which is a country with many years of experience in managing photoaged skin.

The topical application of different galenic formulations can alter the thermographic images of skin: Limitations for public thermal screening on infection control situations

BACKGROUND

To analyze whether the application of topical formulas as cosmetics or sunscreens could affect the skin thermographic readings in terms of infection control in pandemic situations.

METHODS

The temperature of the skin of the dorsal region of the back and the face of 20 volunteers was followed after the application of 6 different types of gels, sunscreens, and make-up under controlled temperature and humidity conditions. High-resolution thermographic images were analyzed to calculate the temperature of treated skin compared to skin free of topical products.

RESULTS

The application of hydroalcoholic gel resulted in a mean drop of more than 2°C just after 1 minute followed by organic sunscreens until 1.7°C. Recovery was observed progressively until minute 9. Color make-up type formulas, rich in iron oxide as well as sunscreens with mineral filters had little or no effect on the skin thermal response.

CONCLUSIONS

It is possible to alter the skin temperature almost immediately by using hydroalcoholic gels and sunscreen cosmetics. So, it is possible to produce false negative data in the readings of patients screened thermically.

Integrated sun protection advice for the South African population

Exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is associated with several cutaneous adverse effects. However, to the best of our knowledge, in South Africa there are no formal guidelines on sun protection. A group of South African dermatologists and researchers convened over the course of 1 year to deliberate on integrated advice for sun protection among the multi-ethnic South African population. For people with light skin and those with genetic skin disorders (e.g., oculocutaneous albinism), sun protection was identified as critical to prevent sunburn, skin cancer, and photoaging. The evidence is less clear for people with medium and darker skin types, especially the latter, in whom melanin may confer a degree of protection against some parts of the solar spectrum. Recent studies have demonstrated that visible light can cause pigmentary changes in individuals with darker skin types in particular. Sun protection for people of all skin colors is beneficial to protect against photoaging and ocular damage. Herein sun protection advice is suggested for South Africans of all skin colors to reduce morbidity and mortality from sun exposure, particularly relating to skin cancer. Several knowledge gaps are identified as future research priorities.

Evaluation of the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of an avobenzone derivative

Solar radiation can cause damage to the skin, and the use of sunscreens is one of the main protective measures. However, photounstable ultraviolet (UV) filters can generate photoproducts and reactive oxygen species (ROS). Adding antioxidants, such as resveratrol, to enhance the action of UV filters in sunscreens is an interesting strategy for reducing the damage caused by UV radiation exposure. However, new compounds must have their stability, safety and efficacy guaranteed. Avobenzone, a commonly used UV filter, stands out as a promising candidate for structural modification to enhance its stability. Its molecular hybridization with other UV filters and antioxidants can lead to safer and more effective compounds. In this study, the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of a derivative of avobenzone, hybridized with resveratrol's molecule, was evaluated using in vitro models of cells in monolayer and reconstructed human skin (RHS). Phototoxic potential was assessed using fibroblasts, while the antioxidant activity was measured using the DCFH2-DA probe in HaCaT keratinocytes and in-house RHS. The derivative exhibited UV absorption and demonstrated photostability. It did not exhibit any phototoxic nor photoreactivity potential. Additionally, it was able to photo stabilize a combination of photounstable UV filters, avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate, and to reduce their phototoxic potential. In terms of antioxidant activity, the derivative successfully protected against UVA-induced ROS production in the HaCaT keratinocytes model, showing statistical equivalence to the antioxidant control, quercetin (10 μg/mL). Furthermore, experiments conducted in the RHS model demonstrated a significant reduction of 30.7% in ROS generation compared to the irradiated control. This study demonstrated that structural modifications of avobenzone can lead to the development of a broad spectrum (absorbing UVB and UVA II radiation, as well as a portion of the UVA I radiation), non-phototoxic, non-photoreactive and photostable derivative for sunscreen and anti-aging formulations. This derivative enhances protection against oxidative stress induced by UV radiation and improves the effectiveness of sun protection. In addition to the monolayer model, the use of a standardized in-house RHS model was highly relevant for evaluating the effects of UV radiation and skin aging. This model closely mimics human physiological conditions and enables the testing of new compounds and the investigation of protective mechanisms against skin damage.

Awareness of sun exposure risks and photoprotection for preventing pigmentary disorders in Asian populations: Survey results from three Asian countries and expert panel recommendations

BACKGROUND

In this article, we review and discuss the photoprotection behavior of Asians based on the literature, along with a subanalysis of an original online survey, and make recommendations to optimize photoprotection for Asian populations to prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

METHODS

An international panel of eight dermatologists from Asia (China, Korea, Japan, Singapore, Indonesia, and Vietnam) met to discuss sunscreen photoprotection for Asian patients. Additionally, a subanalysis of an online survey by 3000 respondents from three Asian countries (China, Indonesia, and Japan) investigated general public awareness and attitudes to sun exposure.

RESULTS

A pre-meeting survey of the eight experts from Asia showed key concerns of Asian patients consulting dermatologists are pigmentary disorders, especially actinic/senile lentigo, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, vitiligo, and Hori's nevus. The survey subanalysis of participants from China, Indonesia, and Japan with predominantly Fitzpatrick skin types (FST) II to IV revealed that they are particularly concerned about sun exposure causing photoaging and pigmentary disorders. Most of the respondents indicated they have limited knowledge on sunlight radiation and appropriate sunscreen protection factors. Only 22%, 13%, and 3% for China, Indonesia, and Japan, respectively, systematically use multiple protective measures (using sunscreen, avoiding midday sun, staying in the shade, wearing a hat, protective clothing, and sunglasses) when exposed to the sun.

CONCLUSIONS

Further education is needed for Asian populations on the importance of comprehensive daily photoprotection, including broad-spectrum sunscreen, with high UVA and visible light protection, to reduce and prevent photoaging and pigmentary disorders.

A cross-sectional epidemiological study conducted in Argentina to evaluate the impact of the exposome on skin aging

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is a gradual cumulative process that may be accelerated by various exposome factors.

AIMS

To investigate associations between exposome factors and facial skin aging in 11 locations in Argentina.

PATIENTS/METHODS

An observational, cross-sectional study with assessments by exposome questionnaire, Glogau photoaging classification from I to IV, AI-based algorithm analysis of 7 skin aging signs, and SCINEXA score.

RESULTS

Of 1346 participants, most were women (82%), aged 31-50 years (62%), of skin phototype III (52%), and living in urban areas (94%). The Glogau skin age was higher than the chronological age for 28% of overall participants, 36% of men, and 45% of participants from Ciudad de Buenos Aires versus 12% from Jujuy (p < 0.001). Being male (OR = 1.59; 95% CI 1.18-2.13), exposed to agrochemicals (OR = 1.59: 95% CI 1.01-2.51), of lower socioeconomic levels (OR = 2.06; 95% CI 1.32-3.21) and doing outdoor physical activity (OR = 1.33; 95% CI 1.00-1.76) increased the risk for premature aging. Odds decreased with high daily intake of water (OR = 0.76; 95% CI 0.59-0.97), daily dermocosmetic use (moisturizers [OR = 0.72; 95% CI 0.55-0.94], cleansers [OR = 0.53; CI 95% 0.42-0.67], retinoids [OR = 0.61; 95% CI 0.39-0.95]), and antiaging treatments (OR = 0.74; 95% CI 0.57-0.97).

CONCLUSIONS

Some exposome factors increased the risk for premature skin aging (physical outdoor activity, exposure to agrochemicals), while others were protective factors (high water intake, antiaging treatments, use of dermocosmetics). Locations with higher pollution levels had more premature skin aging.

Efficacy and mechanism of retinyl palmitate against UVB-induced skin photoaging

Retinyl palmitate (RP) is a vitamin A derivative that has been widely used in anti-aging and skin treatment. The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of RP on UVB (Ultraviolet radiation B) induced photoaging and its potential mechanism. Immunofluorescence assay demonstrates that RP can reduce collagen degradation in skin cells by UVB radiation and reduce apoptosis of skin cells. Cell migration assay reveals that RP can increase cell migration rate, helping to repair skin damage and restore cell viability. Immunohistochemical assays indicate that RP can significantly reduce the expression of IL-6, IL-1β, TNF-α induced by UVB radiation. Moreover, metabolomics and transcriptomics results suggest that RP regulates several metabolic pathways and gene expression, particularly in inflammatory signaling pathways, collagen synthesis and apoptosis, exhibiting significant regulatory effects. Furthermore, network pharmacological analysis predicts that RP may affect UVB-induced photoaging by regulating multiple key proteins and signaling pathways. Overall, this study demonstrates that RP has significant anti-photoaging ability, acting through several pathways including inhibition of inflammatory response, promotion of collagen synthesis and inhibition of apoptosis. These results provide a scientific basis for the application of RP in skin anti-photoaging and therapy, enabling the potential usage of RP to skin care products.

Photoaging's portrait: The road map towards its photoprotection

OBJECTIVE

To summarize key research published by the author's group, dealing with skin photoaging and its photoprotection.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Two methodologies (standard photographs and selfies imaging) resulting from referential skin ageing atlases were applied on 2487 subjects of different ancestries, ages and gender. These aimed at first to best assess and grade the variable severities of some facial signs (texture/wrinkles, pigmentary spots, sagging and vascular disorders) that occur progressively during the photoaging process. Second, such methodologies were used to record the benefits brought by a photoprotective regimen (671 women and men).

RESULTS

In all studied ancestries, each facial sign show an increase severity along decades, at its own pace, some showing a linear like progression, whereas some plateau at early ages. These changes differed according to skin innate colour (phototype) and with individual behaviours vis-à-vis sun exposures, more so among European women than North-East Asian women. An effect of gender (less severe alterations) was observed on Chinese men, as compared to Chinese women. Pigmentary disorders were found hallmarks of photo-aged North-East Asian women. Globally, photoaging impact the apparent age of the different subjects. The counteracting effects of strong topical Photoprotective regimens were evidenced along a 6-month seasonality in Chinese and French women or 1-year period in Brazilian women with phototypes II to VI. Photoprotection led to a more even skin complexion among Indian subjects with pigment irregularities.

CONCLUSION

Two factors clearly hamper a better assessment of the efficiency of photoprotection of the sun-induced cutaneous ageing: short durations (months) of the studies with regard to the global fate of photoaging by decades and the number of studied subjects, limited to hundreds for practical reasons. The methodology based on the automatic analysis of facial signs through selfies images could theoretically bypass both factors, allowing thousands of subjects to be studied along years.

Impact on facial skin aging signs of a 1-year standardized photoprotection over a classical skin care routine in skin phototypes II-VI individuals: A prospective randomized trial

BACKGROUND

Data reflecting the impact of photoprotection on cutaneous aging are scarce and mostly limited to fair skin.

OBJECTIVE

To assess the effectiveness of a photoprotective product in counteracting the photoaging process in different skin phototypes over 1 year compared against a classical routine.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Two hundred and ninety Brazilian women aged 30-65 years, with skin phototype II-VI were equally randomized in two groups. Group 1 kept on their routine whereas Group 2 applied, twice daily, a photoprotective product (SPF 60, PPD = 24.1) replacing the one they routinely used. Volunteers reported the duration of their daily sun-exposure. Standardized photographs taken at D0 and D365 were analysed by 15 dermatologists to assess eight wrinkles and pigmentation signs.

RESULTS

A global increase in severity was reported which was significant for Group 1. This increase was lower in Group 2 where only half the signs showed significant worsening. In Group 2 versus Group 1, the increase in forehead wrinkles, marionette lines, wrinkles created by ptosis and size of dark spot was significantly (p < 0.05) decreased by 30%-50%.

CONCLUSION

Daily application of a high photoprotective product significantly decreases the progression of skin aging signs after 1 year in skin phototypes II-VI.

Antioxidant and phytometabolite profiles of ethanolic extract from the cascara pulp of Coffea arabica collected from Gayo Highland: A study for potential anti-photoaging agent

Background: As the most abundant coffee by-product, cascara pulp has been considered a good source of antioxidants which could be used to prevent photoaging. The aim of this study was to determine the phytometabolite profiles, antioxidant and photoaging properties of the ethanolic extract of Coffea arabica cascara pulp. Methods: Ethanolic maceration was performed on the fine powder of C. arabica cascara pulp collected from Gayo Highland, Aceh Province, Indonesia. The filtrate obtained was evaluated for its 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging activity, total phenolic content (TPC), and total flavonoid content (TFC). The phytometabolite profiling was conducted qualitatively using reagents and quantitatively using gas chromatography-mass spectroscopy (GC-MS). The potential of the cascara pulp phytometabolites in inhibiting activator protein-1 (AP-1) was evaluated through molecular docking. Results: The extract had TPC and TFC of 2.04 mg gallic acid equivalent/g extract and 91.81 mg quercetin equivalent/g extract, respectively. The half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC 50) for the DPPH inhibition reached as low as 9.59 mg/L. Qualitative phytocompound screening revealed the presence of alkaloids, saponins, tannins, flavonoids, steroids, quinones, polyphenols, and triterpenoids. GC-MS revealed the extract containing 5-hydroxy-methylfurfural (22.31%); 2,5-dimethyl-4-hydroxy-3(2H)-furanone (0.74%); and caffeine (21.07%), which could form interaction with AP-1 with binding energies of -172.8, -150.8, and -63.188 kJ/mol, respectively. Conclusion: Ethanolic extract from C. arabica cascara pulp potentially have anti-photoaging properties which is worthy for further investigations in the future.

Characteristics of choice and satisfaction regarding the use of ultraviolet blockers in the golf population in Republic of Korea: A quantitative study

Background and Aims

Korea's golf population surpassed 5 million (5.15 million) as of 2020 according to data analyzed by Shinhan Financial Investment in 2021. Due to the continuous increase in the golf population, it is necessary to study the use of specific sunscreens. Men and women are using sunscreen selective attributes based on the actual use and perception of sunscreens for life. A questionnaire survey was conducted for an analysis of the effect of product satisfaction.

Methods

Statistical processing of materials collected by the data analysis method is analyzed using the Statistical Package for Social Science WIN 25.0 statistical package program through the process of data coding and data cleaning.

Results

This exercise was done under 3-4 h of strong ultraviolet (UV) rays, so products that have ensured the durability of UV protection are needed. Among the demographic characteristics of the golf population, gender, age, academic background, occupation, marriage status, and monthly income were investigated, and it was confirmed that the information path of a particular product was affected by the choice of purchase, increasing satisfaction and repurchase.

Conclusion

An analysis of the paper's survey showed that men's awareness and interest in sunscreens increased. It is expected that differentiated strategies will be needed for products that match the actual conditions and aptitudes of the effective golf population.

Current practice and beliefs of parents toward sunscreen use for their children: A cross-sectional study

Parents are generally influencing the sun protection behaviors of their children, including sunscreen use. In Saudi Arabia, sunscreen use was estimated in adults but not children. The objective was to estimate the prevalence and predictors of sunscreen use among parents and their children. An observational cross-sectional study was conducted in April 2022. Parents who were visiting outpatient clinics at a university hospital in Al-Kharj city, Saudi Arabia, were invited to complete an online questionnaire. A total of 266 participants were included in the final analysis. The mean age of parents was 39.0 ± 8.9 years, and the mean age of children was 8.2 ± 3.2 years. The prevalence of sunscreen use was 38.7% in parents and 24.1% in their children. Females had higher sunscreen use than males in both parents (49.7% versus 7.2%, p < 0.001) and in children (31.9% versus 18.3%, p = 0.011). The most frequent sunburn protection measures practiced by children were wearing long-sleeved clothes (77.0%), sitting in the shade (70.6%), and wearing hats (39.2%). In multivariable analysis, predictors of sunscreen use in parents included female sex, history of sunburn, and sunscreen use by children. Independent predictors of sunscreen use in children included a history of sunburn, wearing hats, and practicing other sunburn protection measures on risky occasions, and sunscreen use in parents. Sunscreen use in parents and children in Saudi Arabia is still inadequate or limited. This calls for community/school intervention programs using educational activities and multimedia promotion. Further studies are needed.

Environmental Air Pollutants Affecting Skin Functions with Systemic Implications

The increase in air pollution worldwide represents an environmental risk factor that has global implications for the health of humans worldwide. The skin of billions of people is exposed to a mixture of harmful air pollutants, which can affect its physiology and are responsible for cutaneous damage. Some polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons are photoreactive and could be activated by ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Therefore, such UVR exposure would enhance their deleterious effects on the skin. Air pollution also affects vitamin D synthesis by reducing UVB radiation, which is essential for the production of vitamin D3, tachysterol, and lumisterol derivatives. Ambient air pollutants, photopollution, blue-light pollution, and cigarette smoke compromise cutaneous structural integrity, can interact with human skin microbiota, and trigger or exacerbate a range of skin diseases through various mechanisms. Generally, air pollution elicits an oxidative stress response on the skin that can activate the inflammatory responses. The aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) can act as a sensor for small molecules such as air pollutants and plays a crucial role in responses to (photo)pollution. On the other hand, targeting AhR/Nrf2 is emerging as a novel treatment option for air pollutants that induce or exacerbate inflammatory skin diseases. Therefore, AhR with downstream regulatory pathways would represent a crucial signaling system regulating the skin phenotype in a Yin and Yang fashion defined by the chemical nature of the activating factor and the cellular and tissue context.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations: Influence of Formulation Composition on the SPF and Mechanical Properties

The evaluation of the vehicle formulation is important during the development of sunscreens, as it influences their efficacy. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop photoprotective formulations and evaluate the influence of the formulation components in the sun protection factor (SPF) and physical-mechanical and sensory properties of the formulations. We evaluated four sunscreens through a 2² full factorial design in terms of concentration and emulsifier type. The design of experiments (DOE) parameters were SPF, thixotropy, and work of shear. After the screening of the formulations by DOE, the SPF values, mechanical and sensory properties, and stability were evaluated. All study formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior, compatible with sunscreens, and presented SPF values above 30. The factors evaluated in DOE had significant interactions for all the analyzed parameters. The concentration of the phosphate-based emulsifier influenced the SPF parameter. The work of shear was influenced by the concentration of polyglyceryl-based emulsifier. The concentration and the type of emulsifier influenced the thixotropy. Finally, effective sunscreens were developed, and the type and concentration of emulsifiers had an influence on the SPF of the formulations. In addition, the formulations chosen by DOE were stable and showed good sensory properties.

Bioactive Peptides from Skipjack Tuna Cardiac Arterial Bulbs (II): Protective Function on UVB-Irradiated HaCaT Cells through Antioxidant and Anti-Apoptotic Mechanisms

The aim of this study was to investigate the protective function and mechanism of TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) from skipjack tuna cardiac arterial bulbs on skin photoaging using UVB-irradiated HaCaT cell model. The present results indicated that TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) had significant cytoprotective effect on UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells (p < 0.001). Hoechst 33342 staining showed that apoptosis of UV-irradiated HaCaT cells could be significantly reduced by the treatment of TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM); JC-1 staining showed that TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) could protect HaCaT cells from apoptosis by restoring mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP); Furthermore, TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) could significantly down-regulate the ratio of Bax/Bcl-2 and reduce the expression level of the apoptosis-executing protein Caspase-3 by decreasing the expression of protein Caspase-8 and Caspase-9 (p < 0.05). The action mechanism indicated that TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) could up-regulate the expression levels of Nrf2, NQO1 and HO-1 (p < 0.05), which further increased the activity of downstream proteases (SOD, CAT and GSH-Px), and scavenged reactive oxygen species (ROS) and decreased the intracellular levels of malondialdehyde (MDA). In addition, molecular docking indicated that TCP3 (PKK) and TCP6 (YEGGD) could competitively inhibit the Nrf2 binding site because they can occupy the connection site of Nrf2 by binding to the Kelch domain of Keap1 protein. TCP9 (GPGLM) was inferred to be non-competitive inhibition because it could not bind to the active site of the Kelch domain of Keap1 protein. In summary, the antioxidant peptides TCP3 (PKK), TCP6 (YEGGD) and TCP9 (GPGLM) from cardiac arterial bulbs of skipjack tuna can effectively protect HaCaT cells from UVB-irradiated damage and can be used in the development of healthy and cosmetic products to treat diseases caused by UV radiation.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

α-Ionone protects against UVB-induced photoaging in epidermal keratinocytes

Objective

To evaluate whether α-ionone, an aromatic compound mainly found in raspberries, carrots, roasted almonds, fruits, and herbs, inhibits UVB-mediated photoaging and barrier dysfunction in a human epidermal keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells).

Methods

The anti-photoaging effect of α-ionone was evaluated by detecting the expression of barrier-related genes and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in HaCaT cells. The levels of reactive oxygen species, oxidation product, antioxidant enzyme, and inflammatory factors were further analysed to underline the protective effect of α-ionone on epidermal photoaging.

Results

It was found that α-ionone attenuated UVB-induced barrier dysfunction by reversing keratin 1 and filaggrin in HaCaT cells. α-Ionone also reduced the protein amount of MMP-1 and mRNA expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, implying protective effects on extracellular matrix. Furthermore, HaCaT cells exposed to α-ionone showed significant decreases in interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, IL-8, and tumor necrosis factor-α as compared to UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. α-Ionone treatment significantly inhibited the UVB-induced intracellular reactive oxygen species increase and malondialdehyde accumulation. Therefore, the beneficial effects of α-ionone on inhibiting MMPs secretion and barrier damage may be related to attenuated inflammation and oxidative stress.

Conclusion

Our results highlight the protective effects of α-ionone on epidermal photoaging and promote its clinic application as a potential natural anti-photodamage agent in future.

Commentary: Facial Aesthetic Dermatological Procedures and Photoprotection in Chinese Populations

The medical literature on aesthetic dermatology has primarily focused on a light-skinned patient population, yet patients of darker skin types have different needs and priorities. In Chinese individuals, key concerns include altered pigmentation, which is perceived to age the individual, and also relates to the Chinese cultural standard of beauty of fair skin; many seek aesthetic treatment for this. Non-invasive cosmetic procedures such as lasers and injections are also gaining in popularity in the Chinese market, but this population is prone to hyperpigmentation as an adverse effect of such procedures. Considered and tailored approaches, both to primary concerns of photoaging and the side effects of cosmetic treatments, are warranted.

Chronic infrared-A irradiation-induced photoaging of human dermal fibroblasts from different donors at physiological temperature

BACKGROUND

In this study, we examined cellular responses to acute and chronic IRA irradiation at mild and natural levels of exposure in two types of human fibroblasts, each isolated from a different donor, at physiological temperature (34°C).

METHOD

Two types of human dermal fibroblasts (derived from a 20- and 50-year-old women, respectively) were exposed to different repeat numbers of IRA exposure (3, 6, 10, and 14 times; 42 mW/cm² ) at a frequency of 3-4 times per week (4 h per irradiation). Cellular responses to acute and chronic IRA irradiation were examined by reactive oxygen species (ROS) level, apoptotic signals, cellular morphology, and collagen level.

RESULTS

We demonstrated that chronic IRA irradiation-induced severe cellular damage, including prolonged cell proliferation, increased intracellular ROS levels, activated cellular apoptosis, and elongated cell morphology, whereas acute IRA irradiation had negligible effects at 34°C. In addition, it was evident that the degree of cellular damage due to IRA irradiation differed according to the type of fibroblasts.

CONCLUSIONS

Considering the severe cellular damage induced by chronic IRA irradiation without heat, continuous exposure of skin to IRA irradiation during daily life may be harmful enough to induce photoaging.

Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi regulates REV-ERBα/BMAL1 to protect against skin aging in mice

Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi (SBG) is a traditional Chinese medicine widely used to treat disorders such as hypertension, dysentery and hemorrhaging. Here, we aimed to assess the pharmacological effects of SBG on skin aging and to investigate the underlying mechanisms. Mice with skin aging were established by treatment with D-galactose and ultraviolet-B. SBG (topical application) showed a protective effect on skin aging in mice, as evidenced by less formation of skin wrinkles, higher levels of SOD (superoxide dismutase) and HYP (hydroxyproline) as well as a lower level of MDA (malondialdehyde). In the meantime, skin MMP-1 and p53 expression were lower, epidermis was thinner and collagen amount was higher in SBG-treated mice. Anti-skin aging effects of SBG were also confirmed in NIH3T3 and HaCaT cells, as well as in mouse primary dermal fibroblasts and human primary epidermal keratinocytes. Furthermore, we found that loss of Rev-erbα (a known repressor of Bmal1) up-regulated skin BMAL1 (a clock component and a known anti-aging factor) and ameliorated skin aging in mice. Moreover, SBG dose-dependently increased the expression of BMAL1 in the skin of aged mice and in senescent NIT3H3 cells. In addition, based on a combination of Gal4 chimeric, luciferase reporter and expression assays, SBG was identified as an antagonist of REV-ERBα and thus an inducer of BMAL1 expression. In conclusion, SBG antagonizes REV-ERBα to up-regulate BMAL1 and to protect against skin aging in mice.

Photolyase Production and Current Applications: A Review

The photolyase family consists of flavoproteins with enzyme activity able to repair ultraviolet light radiation damage by photoreactivation. DNA damage by the formation of a cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) and a pyrimidine-pyrimidone (6-4) photoproduct can lead to multiple affections such as cellular apoptosis and mutagenesis that can evolve into skin cancer. The development of integrated applications to prevent the negative effects of prolonged sunlight exposure, usually during outdoor activities, is imperative. This study presents the functions, characteristics, and types of photolyases, their therapeutic and cosmetic applications, and additionally explores some photolyase-producing microorganisms and drug delivery systems.

Topical formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in ampoules improves skin aging signs: Results of a large, international, observational study

INTRODUCTION

Peptide-C ampoules (PC) contain peptides, 10% of vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralizing water.

AIMS

To assess the effectiveness and tolerability of PC.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

An observational study conducted in 9 countries in women ≥30 years old with signs of facial skin aging (grade >0 for forehead and/or crow's feet wrinkles and bothered by skin quality). Investigator assessments and subject questionnaires were performed at initial visit and Day 30 after application of PC twice daily for 28 days. Tolerance was assessed throughout the study.

RESULTS

Effectiveness and safety were analyzed in 1382 and 1742 subjects, respectively. Most subjects (mean age 48.5 ± 8.6 years) had skin phototype II or III (91.7%) and dry or combination skin (63.9%). PC was used as a standalone care or prior to a planned procedure (70%), or after a procedure (30%). Between baseline and Day 30, 63% and 64% of all subjects (N = 1360) had an improvement in forehead wrinkles and crow's feet wrinkles, respectively. Skin hydration improved in 67.3% of subjects. According to investigator and subject assessments, skin quality, skin radiance, skin aging signs, wrinkles, complexion, and skin pores significantly improved by Day 30. Similar results were observed for subgroup analyses when PC was used as standalone skin care or after a procedure. Tolerance of PC was rated as good to very good by 97.7% of subjects.

CONCLUSIONS

Peptide-C ampoules is effective in reducing visible signs of skin aging, and well tolerated, when used alone or as an adjunct to anti-aging procedures.

The Damaging Effects of Long UVA (UVA1) Rays: A Major Challenge to Preserve Skin Health and Integrity

Within solar ultraviolet (UV) light, the longest UVA1 wavelengths, with significant and relatively constant levels all year round and large penetration properties, produce effects in all cutaneous layers. Their effects, mediated by numerous endogenous chromophores, primarily involve the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The resulting oxidative stress is the major mode of action of UVA1, responsible for lipid peroxidation, protein carbonylation, DNA lesions and subsequent intracellular signaling cascades. These molecular changes lead to mutations, apoptosis, dermis remodeling, inflammatory reactions and abnormal immune responses. The altered biological functions contribute to clinical consequences such as hyperpigmentation, inflammation, photoimmunosuppression, sun allergies, photoaging and photocancers. Such harmful impacts have also been reported after the use of UVA1 phototherapy or tanning beds. Furthermore, other external aggressors, such as pollutants and visible light (Vis), were shown to induce independent, cumulative and synergistic effects with UVA1 rays. In this review, we synthetize the biological and clinical effects of UVA1 and the complementary effects of UVA1 with pollutants or Vis. The identified deleterious biological impact of UVA1 contributing to clinical consequences, combined with the predominance of UVA1 rays in solar UV radiation, constitute a solid rational for the need for a broad photoprotection, including UVA1 up to 400 nm.

Nuclear factor-kappa B and effector molecules in photoaging

Nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB) has important but complex functions in the photoaging of the human skin. This protein complex is activated upon UV irradiation and plays a key role in the signalling pathway of the inflammatory cascade. NF-κB induces the expression of various proinflammatory cytokines, such as tumour necrosis factor (TNF) and interleukin-1 (IL-1). These proinflammatory cytokines can in turn stimulate the activation of NF-κB, forming a vicious cycle. These processes cause chronic inflammation and contribute to skin ageing. In addition, the activation of NF-κB upregulates the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and leads to the degradation of structural proteins in the dermis. NF-κB disrupts the barrier function of the skin under prolonged and repeated UV stimulations in these ways. Such activity causes chronic skin damage, followed by the formation of wrinkles, dryness, roughness, laxity, and other photoaging manifestations. This study on the NF-κB signalling pathway and effector molecules provides a new perspective to understand and prevent photoaging.

Usage Patterns and Self-Esteem of Female Consumers of Antiaging Cosmetic Products

Aging is an irreversible process of the human body, resulting from a progressive decrease in the biological functions of the organs, including the skin. This study analyzed the relationship between usage patterns of different types of anti-aging cosmetic products, sociodemographic variables, appearance schemes, psychological morbidity, perfectionism, and aging perception of aging with self-esteem. This cross-sectional study included a sample of 260 women, aged between 25 and 64 years, who are users of anti-aging cosmetics and/or aesthetic treatments. Participants were assessed on psychological morbidity (Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale), appearance schemes (Appearance Schemas Inventory—Revised), perfectionism (Frost Multidimensional Perfectionism Scale), aging perceptions (Brief Aging Perceptions Questionnaire), and self-esteem (Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale). The use of facial-firming cosmetics positively correlated with self-esteem. The results of regression analysis revealed that psychological morbidity and perfectionism contribute negatively to self-esteem, while marital status, professional status, and aging perceptions (positive consequences) contribute positively. According to the results, intervention programs to promote women’s self-esteem should focus on the reduction in psychological morbidity and the promotion of adaptive patterns of perfectionism and address aging perceptions. Longitudinal studies might help explain the complex relationship between the use of anti-aging cosmetic products and psychological variables, particularly self-esteem in women.

Skin, hair and beyond: the impact of menopause

The skin is an endocrine organ and a major target of hormones such as estrogens, androgens and cortisol. Besides vasomotor symptoms (VMS), skin and hair symptoms often receive less attention than other menopausal symptoms despite having a significant negative effect on quality of life. Skin and mucosal menopausal symptoms include dryness and pruritus, thinning and atrophy, wrinkles and sagging, poor wound healing and reduced vascularity, whereas skin premalignant and malignant lesions and skin aging signs are almost exclusively caused by environmental factors, especially solar radiation. Hair menopausal symptoms include reduced hair growth and density on the scalp (diffuse effluvium due to follicular rarefication and/or androgenetic alopecia of female pattern), altered hair quality and structure, and increased unwanted hair growth on facial areas. Hormone replacement therapy (HRT) is not indicated for skin and hair symptoms alone due to the risk-benefit balance, but wider potential benefits of HRT (beyond estrogen's effect on VMS, bone, breast, heart and blood vessels) to include skin, hair and mucosal benefits should be discussed with women so that they will be able to make the best possible informed decisions on how to prevent or manage their menopausal symptoms.

The Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor in the Pathogenesis of Environmentally-Induced Squamous Cell Carcinomas of the Skin

Cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) is one of the most frequent malignancies in humans and academia as well as public authorities expect a further increase of its incidence in the next years. The major risk factor for the development of SCC of the general population is the repeated and unprotected exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Another important risk factor, in particular with regards to occupational settings, is the chronic exposure to polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) which are formed during incomplete combustion of organic material and thus can be found in coal tar, creosote, bitumen and related working materials. Importantly, both exposomal factors unleash their carcinogenic potential, at least to some extent, by activating the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR). The AHR is a ligand-dependent transcription factor and key regulator in xenobiotic metabolism and immunity. The AHR is expressed in all cutaneous cell-types investigated so far and maintains skin integrity. We and others have reported that in response to a chronic exposure to environmental stressors, in particular UV radiation and PAHs, an activation of AHR and downstream signaling pathways critically contributes to the development of SCC. Here, we summarize the current knowledge about AHR's role in skin carcinogenesis and focus on its impact on defense mechanisms, such as DNA repair, apoptosis and anti-tumor immune responses. In addition, we discuss the possible consequences of a simultaneous exposure to different AHR-stimulating environmental factors for the development of cutaneous SCC.

Shedding a New Light on Skin Aging, Iron- and Redox-Homeostasis and Emerging Natural Antioxidants

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are necessary for normal cell signaling and the antimicrobial defense of the skin. However excess production of ROS can disrupt the cellular redox balance and overwhelm the cellular antioxidant (AO) capacity, leading to oxidative stress. In the skin, oxidative stress plays a key role in driving both extrinsic and intrinsic aging. Sunlight exposure has also been a major contributor to extrinsic photoaging of the skin as its oxidising components disrupt both redox- and iron-homeostasis, promoting oxidative damage to skin cells and tissue constituents. Upon oxidative insults, the interplay between excess accumulation of ROS and redox-active labile iron (LI) and its detrimental consequences to the skin are often overlooked. In this review we have revisited the oxidative mechanisms underlying skin damage and aging by focussing on the concerted action of ROS and redox-active LI in the initiation and progression of intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging processes. Based on these, we propose to redefine the selection criteria for skin antiaging and photoprotective ingredients to include natural antioxidants (AOs) exhibiting robust redox-balancing and/or iron-chelating properties. This would promote the concept of natural-based or bio-inspired bifunctional anti-aging and photoprotective ingredients for skincare and sunscreen formulations with both AO and iron-chelating properties.

Effects of Bonito Elastin HC on Skin Dryness, Wrinkles, and Pigmentation In Vitro and In Vivo

We investigated the effects of bonito fish (Katsuwonus pelamis) elastin HC (KE) on skin dryness, wrinkles, and pigmentation in vitro and in vivo. In vitro, we evaluated the expression of mRNA genes and proteins related to skin dryness, wrinkles, and pigmentation. HaCaT and HS27 cells were exposed to ultraviolet B radiation (UVB) (50 mJ/cm²), and B16F10 cells were stimulated with 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine (IBMX, 250 μg/mL) for 72 h to induce melanin synthesis. All cells were treated with KE (50-400 μg/mL) for 24 h. We found that KE increased the expression of long-chain base 1, dihydroceramide desaturase 1, elastin, hyaluronan synthase 2, and ceramide synthase 4 mRNA or protein as well as hyaluronic acid and sphingomyelin levels in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Moreover, KE regulated factors related to collagen production, wrinkles, and melanin production in UVB-irradiated HS27 cells and IBMX-stimulated B16F10 cells. In vivo, we evaluated skin hydration and the expression of mRNA genes and proteins in the skin, and conducted morphological observations in SKH-I hairless mice (5-week-old male). The mice were exposed stepwise to UVB and given KE (10, 20, and 30 mg/kg b.w.) for 8 weeks. We found that skin hydration and protein or mRNA expression related to skin moisturization were increased in the KE group. Moreover, KE intake increased factors related to collagen production, wrinkles, and melanin production in UVB-irradiated SKH-I hairless mice. These results suggest that KE may have efficacy for the development of treatments for improving skin health.

Photoprotective effects of sphingomyelin-containing milk phospholipids in ultraviolet B-irradiated hairless mice by suppressing nuclear factor-κB expression

Ceramide-containing phospholipids improve skin hydration and barrier function and are ideal for use in skin care products. In this study, we evaluated the photoprotective effect of milk phospholipids on the skin condition of UVB-irradiated hairless mice. Skin parameters were assessed following oral administration of milk phospholipids. The UVB irradiation induced photoaging in mice. The animals were divided into 5 groups: a control group (oral administration of saline with no UBV irradiation), UVB group (oral administration of saline with UVB irradiation), and 3 UVB irradiation groups receiving the milk phospholipids at 3 different concentrations of oral administration, 50 mg/kg (ML group), 100 mg/kg (MM group), and 150 mg/kg (MH group), for 8 wk. An increase in skin hydration and transepidermal water loss were improved in the 150 mg/kg of milk phospholipid-administered group. Hematoxylin and eosin staining revealed a decrease in epidermal thickness in the milk phospholipid-administered groups (50, 100, and 150 mg/kg of body weight). In particular, the 100 and 150 mg/kg groups showed significant changes in the area, length, and depth of the wrinkles compared with the UVB group. Moreover, the gene expression of matrix metalloproteins was attenuated, and that of proinflammatory cytokines, especially tumor necrosis factor-α, was significantly reduced in the milk phospholipid-administered groups than in the UVB group. The reduced ceramide and increased sphingosine-1-phosphate levels in the skin tissue due to UVB exposure were restored to levels similar to those of the control group following milk phospholipid administration. These results were confirmed to be due to the downregulation of protein expression of nuclear factor kappa-B (NF-κB) and phosphorylated IκB-α (inhibitor of κB α). Collectively, oral administration of milk phospholipids improves skin health through a synergistic effect on photoprotective activity.

Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations

Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings.

Nanomaterials in Skin Regeneration and Rejuvenation

Skin is the external part of the human body; thus, it is exposed to outer stimuli leading to injuries and damage, due to being the tissue mostly affected by wounds and aging that compromise its protective function. The recent extension of the average lifespan raises the interest in products capable of counteracting skin related health conditions. However, the skin barrier is not easy to permeate and could be influenced by different factors. In the last decades an innovative pharmacotherapeutic approach has been possible thanks to the advent of nanomedicine. Nanodevices can represent an appropriate formulation to enhance the passive penetration, modulate drug solubility and increase the thermodynamic activity of drugs. Here, we summarize the recent nanotechnological approaches to maintain and replace skin homeostasis, with particular attention to nanomaterials applications on wound healing, regeneration and rejuvenation of skin tissue. The different nanomaterials as nanofibers, hydrogels, nanosuspensions, and nanoparticles are described and in particular we highlight their main chemical features that are useful in drug delivery and tissue regeneration.