Characterization of facial skin of various Asian populations through visual and non-invasive instrumental evaluations: influence of age and skincare habits

Diversity of Asian skin: A review on skin biophysical properties

Asian is home to dozens of different ethnic groups that are characterised by fascinating social and cultural variations. Unfortunately, existing literature on the skin properties of Asians tends to group this diverse population solely based on skin colour, perpetuating the misconception and stereotype that all Asian skin is the same. While Asia is one of the largest continents in the world, the difference in the geographical location and climate have long shaped the population into various ethnic groups with significant differences in the collective and diverse customs, traditions, cultures and living habits. The diverse ethnic groups in this region hint us that their skin biophysical characteristics can be very different from each other. This review features the profiling of the distinctive skin biophysical properties of Asians. We learn more about the different ethnic groups in Asia and acknowledge the unique skin biophysical properties even from the same country.

Evaluation of Personalized Skincare Through in-silico Gene Interactive Networks and Cellular Responses to UVR and Oxidative Stress

Purpose

Personalized approaches in dermatology are designed to match the specific requirements based on the individual genetic makeup. One major factor accounting for the differences in skin phenotypes is single nucleotide polymorphism (SNP) within several genes with diverse roles that extend beyond skin tone and pigmentation. Therefore, the cellular sensitivities to the environmental stress and damage linked to extrinsic aging could also underlie the individual characteristics of the skin and dictate the unique skin care requirements. This study aimed to identify the likely biomarkers and molecular signatures expressed in skin cells of different ethnic backgrounds, which could aid further the design of personalized skin products based on specific demands.

Methods

Using data mining and in-silico modeling, the association of SNP-affected genes with three major skin types of European, Asian and African origin was analyzed and compared within the structure-function gene interaction networks. Cultured dermal fibroblasts were subsequently subjected to ultraviolet radiation and oxidative stress and analyzed for DNA damage and senescent markers. The protective applications of two cosmetic ingredients, Resveratrol and Quercetin, were validated in both cellular and in-silico models.

Results

Each skin type was characterized by the presence of SNPs in the genes controlling facultative and constitutive pigmentation, which could also underlie the major differences in responses to photodamage, such as oxidative stress, inflammation, and barrier homeostasis. Skin-type-specific dermal fibroblasts cultured in-vitro demonstrated distinctive sensitivities to ultraviolet radiation and oxidative stress, which could be modulated further by the bioactive compounds with the predicted capacities to interact with some of the genes in the in-silico models.

Conclusion

Evaluation of the SNP-affected gene networks and likely sensitivities of skin cells, defined as low threshold levels to extrinsic stress factors, can provide a valuable tool for the design and formulation of personalized skin products that match more accurately diverse ethnic backgrounds.

Facial Skin Aging Stages in Chinese Females

Background

Facial skin is exposed to the environment, which marks it with obvious signs of aging. Based on multi-dimensional non-invasive evaluation data, female facial skin can be characterized in detail. However, there are few studies on the general aging rules of facial skin. Most skin aging studies divide the ages into 5–10-year intervals, so they have lacked dynamic matching with facial skin aging.

Aim

To explore facial skin aging rules, discuss the main parameters of facial skin aging, propose an unequal-distance aging division method based on the main skin parameters, and study the skin characteristics of Chinese women of different aging stages.

Methods

We comprehensively described the skin status as 24 non-invasive skin parameters belonging to five dimensions: skin wrinkles, texture, stain, color and barrier function. We performed polynomial fitting on the 21 skin parameters that were significantly correlated with age and derived the rules of aging in the different dimensions. Based on the wrinkle dimension, the facial skin aging process was divided into four stages, and the skin characteristics of the different stages were compared.

Results

Skin wrinkles increased, texture deteriorated, acne decreased, pigment spots increased, skin tone darkened, and sebum secretion decreased with age, according to the polynomial fitting. The aging stage was divided into an incubation period (18–30 years old), an aging occurrence period (31–42 years old), a rapid aging period (43–47 years old), and a stable aging period (48–60 years old), according to the wrinkles. Different aging stages had different skin characteristics.

Conclusion

The incubation period is the critical period for the appearance of skin stains; the skin texture gradually deteriorates during the aging occurrence period; the rapid aging period is a critical period for the aging of skin parameters; skin status during the stable aging period is the worst.

Virtual approach of the aesthetical fit between hair colours and skin tones in women of different ethnical origin backgrounds

OBJECTIVE

To determine the aesthetical accordance between a given skin tone and the 11 possible colours of head hairs, covered by a marketed hair colouration product.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

The photographs of professional top models, representing several ancestries (non-Hispanic European and Euro-American, East Asian, Hispanic Euro-American, and African-American ancestries), were used to virtually modify skin tones (from light, medium to dark) and hair colour by an artificial intelligence (AI)-based algorithm. Hence, 117 modified photographs were then assessed by five local panels of about 60 women each (one in China, one in France and three in US). The same questionnaire was given to the panels, written in their own language, asking which and how both skin tones and hair colours fit preferentially (or not appreciated), asking in addition the reasons of their choices, using fixed wordings.

RESULTS

Answers from the five panels differed according to origin or cultural aspects, although some agreements were found among both non-Hispanic European and Euro-American groups. The Hispanic American panel in US globally much appreciated darker hair tones (HTs). Two panels (East Asian in China and African American in US) and part of non-Hispanic European panel in France declared appreciating all HTs, almost irrespective with the skin tone (light, medium and dark). This surprising result is very likely caused by gradings (in %) that differ by too low values, making the establishment of a decisive or significant assessment. By nature highly subjective (culturally and/or fashion driven), the assessments should be more viewed as trends, an unavoidable limit of the present virtual approach. The latter offers nevertheless a full respect of ethical rules as such objective could hardly be conducted in vivo: applying 10 or 11 hair colourations on the same individual is an unthinkable option.

CONCLUSION

The virtual approach developed in the present study that mixes two major facial coloured phenotypes seems at the crossroad of both genetic backgrounds and the secular desire of a modified appearance. Nonetheless, this methodology could afford, at the individual level in total confidentiality, a great help to subjects exposed to some facial skin disorders or afflictions.

Facial Skin Biophysical Profile of Women in Malaysia: Significance of Facial Skincare Product Use

INTRODUCTION

At present, there is a lack of baseline data on the facial skin biophysical profile of women in Malaysia. The implications related to the daily habits and facial skincare product use on the skin biophysical condition are, thus, unknown. In this study, we aim to evaluate facial skin biophysical parameters of Malaysian women and examine the influence of demographic characteristics, daily habits, and facial skincare product use on these parameters.

METHODS

Four skin biophysical parameters - transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin content, elasticity, and collagen intensity - were assessed on the cheek of the subjects (20-60 years). Demographic background, daily habits, and skincare product use were gauged through a survey. Only 197 from the 213 subjects recruited initially were used for analysis after the data were screened for normality.

RESULTS

The biophysical parameters were similar in different races, except a higher melanin content in Indian female individuals. Elasticity and collagen intensity reduced with age, while melanin content increased in the older age-groups. But no difference was observed in TEWL at different ages. Evaluating the influence of daily habits, we observed that exercise significantly lowered TEWL and increased melanin content, which may be associated with UV radiation exposure. Facial skincare products are popular among the female subjects (>85% users). Products with moisturizing, sunscreening, and other skincare functions (astringent, antiaging, and anti-wrinkle) were preferred by subjects of all ages. These product functions significantly improve skin elasticity and reduce melanin content in the young adults. While aged women recognized the importance of having an additional skin-lightening function in their skincare routine. Although the influence of individual skincare function on skin biophysical parameters was mostly positive, the alteration of these parameters varied at different ages.

CONCLUSION

This is the first report of facial skin biophysical profile of Malaysian women. There is no difference among 3 major races saved for melanin content. This work demonstrated age-dependent influences on the biophysical parameters, except TEWL. The significance of skincare product use is well reflected in the improvement of these parameters at different age-groups based on individual skincare functions.

The Interaction of Age and Anatomical Region Influenced Skin Biophysical Characteristics of Chinese Women

BACKGROUND

Ageing is an inevitable physiology process of humans, and skin biophysical parameters change owing to genetic and environmental factors in different ethnic populations.

AIM

To gain comprehensive data on the skin biophysical parameters of different anatomical regions and to explore the change trend of the skin characteristics associated with age for the indicated regions by generalized additive model.

METHODS

We measured various skin biophysical parameters on forehead, cheek, chin and inner forearm of 178 Chinese women aged between 20 and 64 years living in Beijing. These parameters comprised skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum content, erythema index (EI), melanin index (MI), L*a*b* values, individual typology angle (ITA) and pH, which were quantified by non-invasive instruments.

RESULTS

Comparing the skin parameters among the four test areas, we observed that the hydration, TEWL, EI and a* values were significantly higher for the face than for the forearm, but the L* and ITA values were just the opposite. The cheek was the lightest and brightest region with lowest sebum content, while the chin was much darker and the forehead was yellowish. Considering the change of the skin parameters with age, TEWL, sebum content and melanin and erythema indices had a linear relationship with age, whereas skin hydration, L, a, b, ITA and pH values exhibited a non-monotonic relationship. The turning points of these curves appeared almost at the thirties, showing the lightest and evenest skin color and more hydration, with lower pH values.

CONCLUSION

This study indicates that the skin biophysical characteristics of Chinese women were significantly affected by age and body regions.

Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age and skin plumpness among differently aged Korean women

OBJECTIVE

To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age and plumpness on Korean women of different ages.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Photographs were taken of the faces of 112 Korean women of different ages (18-80 years) under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 19 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, Pigmentation disorders, Vascular disorders, and Cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 92 Korean women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to: (a) attribute on a 0-10 scale their perception of the skin plumpness (ie supple/hydrated/nourished) and (b) estimate the age of the subject.

RESULTS

With the exception of Vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The Wrinkles/Texture or Ptosis/Sagging showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found highly correlated, half of the subjects were judged older by 2-12 years. The facial signs/clusters were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of vascular disorders, size of pigmentary spots and cheek skin pores. The weights in perceived ages of Wrinkles/Texture and Ptosis/Sagging represent 37% each and Pigmentation disorders at 26%. Skin plumpness was logically found significantly anti-correlated with perceived age. If, surprisingly, Vascular disorders were found not impacting the plumpness aspect, Cheek skin pores presented a clear influence.

CONCLUSION

Within facial clinical clusters, Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, and Pigmentation disorders are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Korean women. The perception of a decreased skin plumpness is significantly associated with increased perceived age.

The effect of air pollution on the skin colour and tone of Chinese women: A multicentre cohort study

BACKGROUND

Overall facial skin colour is an important sign of perceived health and attractiveness, is predetermined by genetic factors, and is influenced by cultural and living habits, ultraviolet (UV) exposure, climate/seasons and ageing. The objective of this study was to determine the impact of pollution on the skin colour of Chinese women.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A total of 203 Chinese women between 20 and 59 years of age participated in the study and were selected from two cities with different levels of air pollution. Skin colour (L*, a* and b* values), melanin and haemoglobin levels were measured at three sites: the cheek, eye and inner upper arm. Measurements of the inner upper arm were taken as this area of skin was exposed to air pollutants but had minimal exposure to UV light.

RESULTS

There were significant differences in skin chromophores between Chinese women living in two different cities with different levels of pollution. The b* value (yellowness) was higher in the eye and cheek region, and the a* value (redness) was lower in the cheek and arm region for women in the moderately polluted city. The melanin index was significantly higher, and the haemoglobin level was lower for the eye region for women living in the city with a higher level of air pollution.

CONCLUSION

This study has shown that air pollution may negatively affect the skin colour of Chinese women.

Aging-associated alterations in epidermal function and their clinical significance

Chronologically-aged skin displays multiple functional changes in both the dermis and the epidermis. It appears that epidermal dysfunction, compromised permeability homeostasis, reduced stratum corneum hydration and elevated skin surface pH predispose to the development of aging-associated cutaneous and extracutaneous disorders. Improvements in epidermal function have been shown to be an effective alternative therapy in the prevention and treatment of some aging-associated cutaneous disorders, including eczematous dermatitis, pruritus, and xerosis. Recent studies demonstrated that epidermal dysfunction leads to the development of chronic, low-grade systemic inflammation, termed ‘inflammaging,’ which is linked to the development of aging-associated systemic disorders. Thus, correction of epidermal dysfunction could comprise a novel strategy in the prevention and treatment of aging-associated systemic disorders as well. In this review, we summarize aging-associated alterations in epidermal function, their underlying mechanisms, and their clinical significance. Regimens to improve epidermal function in the elderly are also discussed.

Objective measurement and comparison of human facial skin color in East Asian females

BACKGROUND

Skin color is an important physiological index of human skin that has essential significance in cosmetology and dermatological diagnoses and aesthetics, especially in East Asian culture, where the beauty standard is the whiter the skin, the more beautiful a person is. However, there has been a lack of objective comparisons of facial skin color in East Asian females.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Skin color at the cheek site was measured in 445 healthy females, including 362 Chinese women in Beijing and 83 Japanese women in Tokyo, all aged 18-50 years. The parameters consisted of L^* , a^* , b^* , individual typology angle (ITA°), and hue angle and were determined using noninvasive skin measurement instruments.

RESULTS

The skin color categories in East Asians ranged from very light (I) to brown (V), and the dark (VI) category was not observed; the main categories were light (II), intermediate (III), and tan (IV). The facial skin color of Chinese individuals was brighter, more reddish, and less yellowish than that of Japanese individuals. With age, L* values decreased, and a* values and hue angle increased in East Asians with significant differences. Chinese women showed the same differences as Japanese women for all parameters in all age groups.

CONCLUSIONS

This study provides objective skin color measurements and examines significant differences with respect to geographic location and age.

Comparative study into facial sebum level, pore size, and skin hydration between oily-skinned and dry-skinned Thai women

BACKGROUND

Subjective facial skin type is most frequently determined by the amount of sebum, which showed trends across subjective skin types in most previous studies while not in some. This study was conducted to evaluate the associations among subjective skin type, amount of sebum, stratum corneum hydration, and pore size in Thai women.

METHODS

Sixty-two healthy women with either self-described subjective oily or dry skin type were included and casual sebum level (CSL), sebum excretion rate (SER), clinical pore size score, mean pore area, and stratum corneum hydration were measured at several facial sites. Correlation coefficients between amount of sebum and other parameters were estimated.

RESULTS

Casual sebum level and sebum excretion rate were significantly higher in oily-skinned than dry-skinned group by 1.6-2.1 times. Mean pore area and clinical pore size score were not different between the 2 groups, nor did they correlate with CSL or SER. Corneometry was shown to be significantly higher in dry-skinned than oily-skinned group. Significant, negative correlations between corneometry and CSL were also found.

CONCLUSION

The subjective facial skin types were consistent with the amount of sebum, but not pore size or corneometry, among Thai women.

Appearance of aging signs in differently pigmented facial skin by a novel imaging system

Background

Facial wrinkles, pores, and uneven skin tone are major beauty concerns. There is differential manifestation of aging signs in different ethnic groups. In this regard, studies on Black Africans from the African continent are scarce.

Objective

To investigate facial wrinkles, pores, and skin tone in Black African women from Mauritius Island and elucidate the differences to Caucasian women from France.

Methods

Facial images were taken using the imaging system ColorFace^®. Wrinkles and pores were measured by their length, depth, surface, volume, and number; for skin tone, we measured L*a*b* and calculated ITA, IWA_Newtone, and color homogeneity.

Results

We found good correlations of wrinkle and pore scores with expert ranking done on ColorFace^® images for Caucasians (Spearman's rho = 0.78 and 0.72) and Black Africans (Spearman's rho = 0.86 and 0.65). Caucasians showed more advanced facial signs of aging than Black Africans. Exceptions were vertical lines on upper lip and the depth of pores which were greatest for the Black African subjects. Black Africans had higher heterogeneity scores indicative for uneven skin tone. Luminance (L*) was significantly higher in Caucasians but a* and b* values were significantly higher in the Black African subjects. ITA and IWA_Newtone were significantly higher for Caucasians.

Conclusions

The high correlation between expert ranking and wrinkle and pore measurements prove ColorFace^® a valid imaging system to study skin aging. Our results show that Africans from the African continent show delayed signs of aging compared to Caucasians. Some exceptions suggest that ethnic differences in facial aging are a complex phenomenon.

Personalized skincare: from molecular basis to clinical and commercial applications

Individual responses of human skin to the environmental stress are determined by differences in the anatomy and physiology that are closely linked to the genetic characteristics such as pigmentation. Ethnic skin phenotypes can be distinguished based on defined genotypic traits, structural organization and compartmentalized sensitivity to distinct extrinsic aging factors. These differences are not only responsible for the variation in skin performance after exposure to damaging conditions, but can also affect the mechanisms of drug absorption, sensitization and other longer term effects. The unique characteristics of the individual skin function and, particularly, of the ethnic skin type are currently considered to shape the future of clinical and pharmacologic interventions as a basis for personalized skincare. Individual approaches to skincare render a novel and actively growing area with a range of biomedical and commercial applications within cosmetics industry. In this review, we summarize the aspects of the molecular and clinical manifestations of the environmental stress on human skin and proposed protective mechanisms that are linked to ethnic differences and pathophysiology of extrinsic skin aging. We subsequently discuss the possible applications and translation of this knowledge into personalized skincare.