UVA-UVB photoprotective activity of topical formulations containing Morinda citrifolia extract

Compound collagen peptide powder improves skin photoaging by reducing oxidative stress and activating TGF-β1/Smad pathway

Fish collagen peptide (FCP) has been extensively investigated as a natural product that can combat photoaging; however, its efficacy is limited by its singular composition. Compound collagen peptide powder (CCPP) is a novel functional food formulation that exhibits photoprotective properties and comprises FCP and a blend of natural botanical ingredients. The objective of this study was to investigate the efficacy of CCPP and its molecular mechanism. CCPP had a low molecular weight, facilitating its efficient absorption, and was abundant in amino acids, total polyphenols, and total flavonoids. The results of in vivo studies demonstrated that CCPP exhibited significant efficacy in reducing skin wrinkles, enhancing the contents of water and oil in the skin, and ameliorating histopathological alterations in mice. The results of in vitro studies demonstrated that CCPP effectively mitigated photoaging in human skin fibroblasts by attenuating oxidative stress and promoting extracellular matrix (ECM) synthesis. Moreover, we clearly demonstrated that the TGF β1/Smad pathway was involved in the promotion of ECM synthesis and cell proliferation by CCPP in human skin fibroblasts. These findings suggest that, compared with single collagen, CCPP has a more comprehensive range of antiphotoaging properties.

Use of sisal industrial waste (Agave sisalana Perrine) in sustainable and multifunctional cosmetic products

OBJECTIVE

Sisal is a common stiff fibre produced around the world, corresponding to approximately 70% of the commercial production of all fibres of this type. The fibres are extracted from the leaves of Agave sisalana, from which approximately 4% of their weight is obtained, with the remaining 96% considered to be residues from the process of the sisal industry. The objective of this work was to obtain a polyphenol-enriched extract from the A. sisalana residue by ultrasonically assisted extraction, characterize it chemically, evaluate in vitro antioxidant activity, and develop safe and stable photoprotective formulations for future application in cosmetic preparations.

METHODS

Ultrasonic extraction of solid plant material was performed using 50% ethanol/water (v/v). The extract was chemically characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography equipment associated with classical molecular networking and evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity by different methodologies. Ten formulations were prepared, varying the component concentrations and the shear time. The 1.0% sisal extract was incorporated into the most stable formulations, and preliminary and accelerated stability were evaluated. The emulsions were investigated for safety by assessment of primary accumulated dermal irritability and sensitization and a dermatological clinical study of phototoxicity and photosensitization. The photoprotective formulations containing or not containing the extract that were stable after 90 days had their in vivo sun protection factor (SPF), UVA protection factor, critical wavelength, and protection against visible and blue light determined.

RESULTS

Ultrasound extraction using 50% ethanol/water (EH 50) as an extractor vehicle showed the best yield. The extract exhibited a concentration of phenolic compounds (77.93 mg of equivalent to the standard gallic acid/g) and showed in vitro antioxidant activity. Emulsions without and with 1.0% sisal extract remained stable and safe. The addition of the extract to the photoprotective formulation statistically increased the SPF when compared to the formulation without the extract and offered protection against UVA radiation, critical wavelengths, and absorption of visible and blue light.

CONCLUSION

Based on the findings, the solid residue of A. sisalana may be indicated as a component of photoprotective and antioxidant cosmetic formulations.

Hesperetin-Based Hydrogels Protect the Skin against UV Radiation-Induced Damage

UV radiation can cause damages, such as erythema, skin photoaging, and carcinogenesis. The adoption of protective measures against sun exposure is essential to prevent these damages, and the interest in using natural substances as an alternative for photoprotection is growing. Thus, hesperetin with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer properties is a promising substance to be used with photochemopreventive action and to protect the skin from damage induced by UV radiation. Therefore, the present study aimed to develop a topical formulation based on AAMVPC gel containing hesperetin and evaluate its photoprotective effect on the skin of rats exposed to UVA-UVB radiation. The animals were submitted to the irradiation protocol UVA-UVB, and at the end, erythema, lipid peroxidation, and activity of the antioxidant enzyme catalase and superoxide dismutase were evaluated. Additionally, it evaluated the activity of myeloperoxidase and histological changes. The formulation presented a rheological and spreadability profile suitable for cutaneous application. In vivo results demonstrated that the topical formulation of AAMVPC gel containing hesperetin at a concentration of 10% protected the skin from damage induced by UVA-UVB radiation, with the absence of erythema, lipid lipoperoxidation, and inflammation (low myeloperoxidase activity), and increased catalase and superoxide dismutase activities. The morphology and architecture of the dermo-epidermal tissue of these animals were like those observed under normal conditions (non-irradiated animals). Thus, the results showed that hesperetin was able to protect the animals' skin against UV radiation-induced skin damage and the protection mechanisms may be related to the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of this natural product.

Evaluation of antioxidant, photoprotective and antinociceptive activities of Marcetia macrophylla extract: potential for formulation of sunscreens

The antioxidant, photoprotective and antinociceptive Marcetia macrophylla active extract was investigated as an active ingredient in a sunscreen cream formulation. Thus, the M. macrophylla extract showed IC50 of 3.43 mg/ml of the antioxidant (DPPH∙ scavenging test) and Sun Protection Factor of 20.25 (SPF/UV-B, at 250 µg/ml) and UV-A of 78.09% (photobleaching trans-resveratrol test). The antinociceptive activity was superior to all standards tested using the in vivo acetic acid-induced writhing test (99.14% at the dose of 200 mg/kg) and the high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detector and mass spectroscopy multi-stage (HPLC-DAD-MS/MS) enabled the structural characterization of the quercetin-3-O-hexoside, quercetin-3-O-pentoside and quercetin-3-O-desoxihexoside. The pharmaceutical formulation containing the Marcetia macrophylla crude active extract was prepared and the physicochemical tests (organoleptic characteristics, pH analysis and centrifugation), the in vitro UVB (sun protection factor, SPF) and UVA (β-carotene) using the spectroscopic method were investigated. The formulation showed satisfactory results concerning the physicochemical parameters evaluated and active against the UV test. Thus, M. macrophylla showed biological activities with potential use in pharmaceutical preparations.

Anti-aging properties of Curcuma heyneana Valeton & Zipj: A scientific approach to its use in Javanese tradition

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Temu giring, the rhizome of Curcuma heyneana Valeton & Zipj (C. heyneana), is native to tropical regions, especially in Indonesia. It is traditionally used as a skin care, for cosmetic and body freshness, in Javanese and Balinese women, and has many other bioactivities such as antioxidant, anticancer and antiinflammatory.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The purpose of this study was to determine the antiaging activity of C. heyneana to prove its traditional use.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The antioxidant activity was determined using the DPPH free radical method, and anti-aging activity was examined using in vitro assays such as tyrosinase inhibitor and collagenase inhibitor. In vivo tests were performed by observing histomorphologic changes in rat skin exposed to Ultraviolet (UV) rays. The total curcuminoid contents and chromatographic profiles were determined by Thin Layer Chromatography (TLC) - densitometry.

RESULTS

In all in vitro assays, all of the extracts showed a dose-dependent manner in the final concentration range from 62.5 to 500 µg/mL for DPPH assay and 31.25 to 250 µg/mL for tyrosinase inhibition and collagenase inhibition assay. Curcuminoid (CUR), the active principle of Curcuma genus shows antioxidant, tyrosinase inhibitor and collagenase inhibitor activity greater than all C. heyneana extracts. The in vivo assay results showed that the topical application of the crude extract of C. heyneana produced significant improvement effects on the UV-induced skin structure damage. The total CUR content was correlated with the anti-aging activity of Curcuma heyneana.

CONCLUSIONS

The results show that C. heyneana contains antioxidant compounds and has potent anti-aging activity, indicating that it can be used as an anti-aging drug candidate or as a phyto-cosmeceutical.

Blocking or enhancing effects of some basic emollients in UVA penetration

BACKGROUND

Topical agents used in combination with phototherapy or photochemotherapy may have both blocking or enhancing effects in ultraviolet rays.

OBJECTIVE

In this in vivo study, the effects of topical petrolatum, basis cream, glycerine, and olive oil on the transmission of ultraviolet A radiation were investigated.

METHODS

A test was performed to determine the minimal phototoxic dose on 29 volunteers with only psoralen plus ultraviolet A (PUVA) and then the same test was repeated with white petrolatum, basis cream, glycerine, olive oil, and sunscreen (0.3cc/25cm2). The effects of each agent on the minimal phototoxic dose were determined after 72 h.

RESULTS

When compared to pure PUVA, there was a statistically significant increase in the mean minimal phototoxic dose values by the application of white petrolatum (P = 0.011), but there was no significant increase or decrease in the mean minimal phototoxic dose values after the application of basis cream (P = 0.326), glycerine (P = 0.611) or olive oil (P = 0.799).

STUDY LIMITATIONS

Low number of patients Conclusion: The application of white petrolatum, which has a blocking effect, and also of basis cream immediately before PUVA therapy should not be recommended. Although we specify that glycerine and maybe olive oil can be used before photochemotherapy, there is a need for further research in larger series.

Cactus cladodes (Opuntia humifusa) extract minimizes the effects of UV irradiation on keratinocytes and hairless mice

CONTEXT

Cactus cladodes [Opuntia humifusa (Raf.) Raf. (Cactaceae)] is one of the cactus genera, which has long been used as a folk medicine for skin disorders.

OBJECTIVE

This study investigated the skincare potential of cactus cladodes extract (OHE), including its ability to regulate ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced hyaluronic acid (HA) production.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Gene expression levels of hyaluronic acid synthases (HASs) and hyaluronidase (HYAL) were measured in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells with OHE treatment (10, 25, 50, 100 μg/mL) by real-time polymerase chain reaction (PCR). The HA content was analyzed in hairless mice (SKH-1, male, 6 weeks old) treated with OHE for 10 weeks by using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). Haematoxylin and eosin (H&E) and immunohistological staining were performed to examine epidermal thickness and levels of CD44 and hyaluronic acid-binding protein (HABP).

RESULTS

HA synthases (HAS,1 HAS2, HAS3) mRNA levels were increased by 1.9-, 2.2- and 1.6-fold, respectively, with OHE treatment (100 μg/mL), while UVB-induced increase of hyaluronidase mRNA significantly decreased by 35%. HA content in animal was decreased from 42.9 to 27.1 ng/mL by OHE treatment. HAS mRNA levels were decreased by 39%, but HYAL mRNA was increased by 50% in OHE group. CD44 and HABP levels, which were greatly increased by UVB-irradiation, were reduced by 64 and 60%, respectively. Epidermal thickness, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and erythema formation was also decreased by 45 (45.7 to 24.2 μm), 48 (48.8 to 25 g/h/m²) and 33%, respectively.

CONCLUSION

OHE protects skin from UVB-induced skin degeneration in HaCaT cells and hairless mice.

Development and Evaluation of Photoprotective O/W Emulsions Containing Hydroalcoholic Extract of Neoglaziovia variegata (Bromeliaceae)

Neoglaziovia variegata is a Bromeliaceae plant species widely found in Brazil with several pharmacological properties, including photoprotective activity. Although herbal-based active ingredients have been applied in cosmetic products, especially for skin treatment, its application in sunscreen formulations remains unexplored. The aim of this work is to evaluate the photoprotective effect of cosmetic formulations containing hydroalcoholic extract of N. variegata (Nv-HA). Initially, the phenolic and flavonoid total content of Nv-HA were determined. The photoprotective activity of Nv-HA was subsequently assessed using a spectrophotometric method. Nv-HA was incorporated in O/W emulsions in the presence or absence of synthetic filters and their photoprotective efficacy was evaluated by spectrophotometric SPF determination. Finally, the stability study of the formulations was performed through the freezing/defrosting method. Nv-HA showed significant phenolic and flavonoids content (61.66 ± 5.14 mg GAE/g and 90.27 ± 5.03 mg CE/g, resp.). Nv-HA showed SPF values of 5.43 ± 0.07 and 11.73 ± 0.04 for the concentrations of 0.5 and 1.0% (v/v), respectively. It was verified that Nv-HA potentiated the photoprotective effect of formulations containing only synthetic filters. Furthermore, the formulations have remained stable at the end of the preliminary stability study. According to the results, it was concluded that Nv-HA can be used as a chemical filter in cosmetic formulations.

One Plant, Many Uses: A Review of the Pharmacological Applications of Morinda citrifolia

Morinda citrifolia, also known as noni, is commonly used in popular medicine in Brazil. Many parts of the noni tree are utilized in such practices, including the roots, leaves and seeds. Through a search of online databases, the present article reviews 92 research studies on the biological actions of M. citrifolia. The paper will discuss the therapeutic effects of noni and its compounds in a variety of forms of presentation, focusing on studies that support its traditional use. A large and diverse number of properties were identified, which were divided into immunostimulatory, antitumor, antidiabetic, anti-obesity, antibacterial and anti-septic, antifungal, antiviral, leishmanicidal, antiinflammatory, antinociceptive and analgesic, antioxidant, neuroprotective, wound healing, antiallergic, antiangiogenic, antiemetic and anti-nausea, anti-gastric ulcer and oesophagitis, anthelmintic, antimutagenic, antipsychotic, anxiolytic, photoprotective, anti-wrinkle and periodontal tissue regeneration activities. While it was concluded that although M. citrifolia is widely and successfully used for the treatment or prevention of various diseases, it should be consumed carefully, and only after exhaustive studies into its chemical constituents and mechanisms of action, both in in vitro and in vivo models, as well as clinical trials. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Topical antiedematogenic and anti-inflammatory effect of Scutia buxifolia Reissek gel and stability study

Scutia buxifolia Reissek (Rhamnaceae), popularly known in Brazil as "coronilha", is a plant species used in folk medicine for several disorders, including inflammation. However, no studies have been done with this species to confirm its topical anti-inflammatory action. In this study we evaluate the topical antiedematogenic and anti-inflammatory effects of the gel containing crude extract (CE) and the gel containing ethyl acetate (EtOAc) fraction of S. buxifolia on croton oil or UVB radiation-induced ear edema in mice, and perform gel stability study. Antiedematogenic and anti-inflammatory effects were evaluated through ear edema induced by irritant agent croton oil, UVB irradiation-induced skin injury model and neutrophil infiltration. The gel stability study was performed by analyzing organoleptical aspects, pH, viscosity, and quantification of quercetin and rutin by HPLC. The topical treatment with S. buxifolia gel reduced the ear edema and myeloperoxidase activity. Antiedematogenic and anti-inflammatory effects of S. buxifolia were obtained with concentrations of 0.3, 1 and 3%, with maximal inhibition in the concentration of 1% for gel containing CE (inhibitions of 100, 73±0.05 and 97±0.08% for croton oil- or UVB irradiation-induced ear edema and myeloperoxidase activity, respectively) and EtOAc fraction (inhibitions of 79±0.05, 73±0.05 and 89±0.04% for croton oil- or UVB irradiation-induced ear edema and myeloperoxidase activity, respectively). Such effects may be attributed, at least in part, to rutin and quercetin, as well as other compounds found in this species. No important changes were detected in the stability study, in all aspects analyzed in temperature below 25°C. Our results demonstrate that topically applied S. buxifolia gel presented anti-inflammatory effects, provided that it was maintained at a temperature below 25°C.

Protective Effect of Super-Critical Carbon Dioxide Fluid Extract from Flowers and Buds of Chrysanthemum indicum Linnén Against Ultraviolet-Induced Photo-Aging in Mice

It is known that solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation to human skin causes photo-aging, including increases in skin thickness and wrinkle formation and reduction in skin elasticity. UV radiation induces damage to skin mainly by superfluous reactive oxygen species and chronic low-grade inflammation, which eventually up-regulate the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). In this study, the super-critical carbon dioxide extract from flowers and buds of Chrysanthemum indicum Linnén (CISCFE), which has been reported to possess free radical scavenging and anti-inflammatory properties, was investigated for its photo-protective effect by topical application on the skin of mice. Moreover, CISCFE effectively suppressed the UV-induced increase in skin thickness and wrinkle grading in a dose-dependent manner, which was correlated with the inhibition of loss of collagen fiber content and epidermal thickening. Furthermore, we observed that CISCFE could obviously decrease UV-induced skin inflammation by inhibiting the production of inflammatory cytokines (interleukin-1β [IL-1β, IL-6, IL-10, tumor necrosis factor-α), alleviate the abnormal changes of anti-oxidative indicators (superoxide dismutase, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase), and down-regulate the levels of MMP-1 and MMP-3. The results indicated that CISCFE was a novel photo-protective agent from natural resources against UV irradiation.