In vitro determination of the anti-aging potential of four southern African medicinal plants

Marine cosmetics and the blue bioeconomy: From sourcing to success stories

As the global population continues to grow, so does the demand for longer, healthier lives and environmentally responsible choices. Consumers are increasingly drawn to naturally sourced products with proven health and wellbeing benefits. The marine environment presents a promising yet underexplored resource for the cosmetics industry, offering bioactive compounds with the potential for safe and biocompatible ingredients. This manuscript provides a comprehensive overview of the potential of marine organisms for cosmetics production, highlighting marine-derived compounds and their applications in skin/hair/oral-care products, cosmeceuticals and more. It also lays down critical safety considerations and addresses the methodologies for sourcing marine compounds, including harvesting, the biorefinery concept, use of systems biology for enhanced product development, and the relevant regulatory landscape. The review is enriched by three case studies: design of macroalgal skincare products in Iceland, establishment of a microalgal cosmetics spin-off in Italy, and the utilization of marine proteins for cosmeceutical applications.

Harnessing the nutraceutical and therapeutic potential of Allium spp.: current insights and future directions

Apart from the culinary usage, Alliums are known for their therapeutic potential since antiquity. Alliums contain diverse bioactive compounds such as, sulfur-containing compounds (allicin, diallyl sulfides), flavonoids, and saponins. These compounds have demonstrated a wide range of pharmacological actions, including antioxidant, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, neuroprotective, cardioprotective activities and treatment of metabolic disorders such as diabetes and hyperlipidemia. Despite encouraging preclinical results, translating these findings into clinical practice remains difficult, necessitating more rigorous human trials and molecular research. One of the major constrain in enhancing the therapeutic efficacy of these bioactive compound is to develop large-scale extraction techniques besides improving their stability, solubility, and bioavailability. The current scenario urges to focus research on optimizing the bioavailability of these compounds, evaluate their synergistic effects with existing therapies, as well as their long-term safety. This perspective article provides a comprehensive overview of the therapeutic potential of Allium spp. and suggests the key avenues for future research aiming at realising their full clinical potential.

New Phytol Derivatives with Increased Cosmeceutical Potential

Natural compounds are widely incorporated into cosmetic products for many purposes. Diterpenes often function as fragrances, enhancing the sensory experience of these formulations. However, current trends in cosmetic science aim to develop multifunctional products, where compounds traditionally used for texture or fragrance also possess biological activities that contribute to the product's efficacy. In this context, this study focuses on synthesizing derivatives of phytol-a compound already presents in cosmetic formulations-to enhance its anti-aging properties. The derivatives were synthesized through esterification with substituted benzoic and cinnamic acids, known for their antioxidant and enzyme inhibition properties. Reaction yields ranged from 91.0% to 5.2%, depending on the substituents in acid derivatives. The structures of the synthesized compounds were confirmed through NMR and MS techniques. Both the natural and newly synthesized derivatives were evaluated for their cosmeceutical potential using antioxidant assays and inhibition assays for tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase. This work presents the first report of the synthesis and cosmetic evaluation of several of these derivatives. Comparing with phytol (1), which presented an IC50 of 77.47 µM, four of the derivatives presented improved tyrosinase inhibitory activity, with phytyl 4-methoxybenzoate being the most active (IC50 = 27.9 µM), followed by phytyl benzoate with an IC50 of 34.73 µM. Substitutions at other positions on the aromatic ring were less effective. Molecular docking studies confirmed that the modifications potentiated a stronger interaction between the synthesized compounds and tyrosinase.

Unlocking the role of herbal cosmeceutical in anti-ageing and skin ageing associated diseases

The process of skin ageing is a natural biological phenomenon characterised by the emergence of wrinkles, age spots, sagging skin, and dryness over time. The increasing significance of skin in physical attractiveness has heightened skincare concerns. Anti-ageing cosmetics play a pivotal role in nurturing the skin, enhancing its quality, and promoting overall health. Today, cosmetics have evolved beyond mere aesthetics and are now integral to individual wellness. The contemporary quest for perpetual youth has intensified, prompting a deeper exploration into the skin ageing process. This comprehensive exploration delves into various elements involved in skin ageing, encompassing cells such as stem and endothelial cells, blood vessels, soft tissues, and signalling pathways. The molecular basis of skin ageing, including biochemical factors like reactive oxygen species, damaged DNA, free radicals, ions, and proteins (mRNA), is scrutinised alongside relevant animal models. The article critically analyzes the outcomes of utilising herbal components, emphasising their advantageous anti-ageing properties. The factors contributing to skin ageing, mechanistic perspectives, management approaches involving herbal cosmeceutical, and associated complications (especially cardiovascular diseases, Parkinson's, Alzheimer's, etc.) are succinctly addressed. In addition, the manuscript further summarises the recent patented innovations and toxicity of the herbal cosmeceuticals for anti-ageing and ageing associated disorders. Despite progress, further research is imperative to unlock the full potential of herbal components as anti-ageing agents.

Skin anti-aging potential of Launaea procumbens extract: Antioxidant and enzyme inhibition activities supported by ADMET and molecular docking studies

Aging is a natural process that occurs in all living organisms. Particularly, the skin embodies aging since it serves as a barrier between the body and its surroundings. Previously, we reported the wound healing effect of Launaea procumbens and identified compounds therein. The study aims to explore the skin anti-aging properties of the plant extract. To that effect, the antioxidant potential of L. procumbens methanolic extract (LPM) was assessed using two complementary DPPH and FRAP assays. The enzyme inhibitory effect of the extract on collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase was evaluated to assess the direct skin anti-aging effects. Similarly, the anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated to explore the indirect anti-aging effects via the assessment of extract inhibitory effects on cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX). In addition, ADMET and molecular docking studies were performed to explore the interaction mechanisms of identified compounds in LPM with target enzymes. LPM demonstrated significant antioxidant activity in DPPH (IC50 = 29.08 µg/mL) and FRAP (1214.67 µM FeSO4/g extract) assays. Plant extract showed significant inhibition of collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase (IC50 = 52.68, 43.76, 31.031, and 37.13 µg/mL, respectively). The extract demonstrated significant COX-2 and 5-LOX inhibition capacity with IC50 values of 8.635 and 10.851 µg/mL, respectively. The molecular docking study revealed the high potential of the identified compounds to bind to the active sites of enzymes crucially involved in the skin aging process. ADMET analysis of the compounds revealed their good absorption, distribution, and metabolism profiles, and they were found to be safe as well. Study findings suggest L. procumbens as a promising source for the development of natural skin anti-aging and antioxidant compounds. This, in turn, may facilitate its incorporation into cosmetic formulations after further investigation.

Distribution, Chemical Constituents and Biological Properties of Genus Malaxis

The genus Malaxis (family Orchidaceae), comprises nearly 183 species available across the globe. The plants of this genus have long been employed in traditional medical practices because of their numerous biological properties, like the treatment of infertility, hemostasis, burning sensation, bleeding diathesis, fever, diarrhea, dysentery, febrifuge, tuberculosis, etc. Various reports highlight their phytochemical composition and biological activities. However, there is a lack of systematic review on the distribution, phytochemistry, and biological properties of this genus. Hence, this study aims to conduct a thorough and critical review of Malaxis species, covering data published from 1965 to 2022 with nearly 90 articles. Also, it examines different bioactive compounds, their chemistry, and pharmacotherapeutics as well as their traditional uses. A total of 189 unique compounds, including the oil constituents were recorded from Malaxis species. The highest active ingredients were obtained from Malaxis acuminata (103) followed by Malaxis muscifera (49) and Malaxis rheedei (33). In conclusion, this review offers an overview of the current state of knowledge on Malaxis species and highlights prospects for future research projects on them. Additionally, it recommends the promotion of domestication studies for rare medicinal orchids like Malaxis and the prompt implementation of conservation measures.

Anti-Aging Potential of a Novel Ingredient Derived from Sugarcane Straw Extract (SSE)

Natural and sustainable anti-aging ingredients have gained attention from the cosmetic industry. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a sugarcane straw extract-based (SSE) cosmetic ingredient. First, cytotoxicity tests were assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblast cell lines, and sensitization was carried out through the direct peptide reactivity assay. Subsequently, various anti-aging properties were investigated, including inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes, promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and anti-pollution activity. Finally, a permeability assay using a synthetic membrane resembling skin was conducted. The results demonstrated that the SSE ingredient effectively inhibited elastase (55%), collagenase (25%), and tyrosinase (47%) while promoting hyaluronic acid production at non-cytotoxic and low-sensitizer concentrations. Moreover, it reduced the inflammatory response provoked by urban pollution, as evidenced by decreased levels of IL1-α and IL-6. However, it was observed that the phenolic compounds predominantly reached the skin's surface, indicating a limited ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, it can be concluded that the SSE ingredient holds anti-aging properties, albeit with limited penetration into deeper skin layers. Further research and formulation advancements are needed to optimize the ingredient's ability to reach and exert its effects in deeper skin layers.

Mikania micrantha Kunth: An Ethnopharmacological Treasure Trove of Therapeutic Potential

Mikania micrantha is utilized as a therapeutic for the treatment of various human ailments including insect bites, rashes and itches of skin, chicken pox, healing of sores and wounds, colds and fever, nausea, jaundice, rheumatism, and respiratory ailments. This study aimed at summarizing the traditional uses, phytochemical profile, and biological activities of M. micrantha based on obtainable information screened from different databases. An up-to-date search was performed on M. micrantha in PubMed, Science Direct, clinicaltrials.gov, and Google Scholar databases with specific keywords. No language restrictions were imposed. Published articles, theses, seminar/conference papers, abstracts, and books on ethnobotany, phytochemistry and pharmacological evidence were considered. Based on the inclusion criteria, this study includes 53 published records from the above-mentioned databases. The results suggest that fresh leaves and whole plant are frequently used in folk medicine. The plant contains more than 150 different phytochemicals under the following groups: essential oils, phenolics and flavonoids, terpenes, terpene lactones, glycosides, and sulfated flavonoids. It contains carbohydrates and micronutrients including vitamins and major and trace minerals. M. micrantha possesses antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, anti-dermatophytic, anti-protozoal, anthelmintic, cytotoxic, anxiolytic, anti-diabetic, lipid-lowering and antidiabetic, spasmolytic, memory-enhancing, wound-healing, anti-aging, and thrombolytic activities. No clinical studies have been reported to date. M. micrantha might be one of the potential sources of phytotherapeutic compounds against diverse ailments in humans. Studies are required to confirm its safety profile in experimental animals prior to initiating clinical trials. Moreover, adequate investigation is also crucial to clarify exact mechanism of action for each biological effect.

Steroids and Fatty Acid Esters from Cyperus sexangularis Leaf and Their Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Elastase Properties

Cyperus sexangularis (CS) is a plant in the sedges family (Cyperaceae) that grows abundantly in swampy areas. The leaf sheath of plants in the Cyperus genus are mostly used domestically for mat making, while they are implicated for skin treatment in traditional medicine. The plant was investigated for its phytochemical contents as well as its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-elastase properties. The n-hexane and dichloromethane leaf extracts were chromatographed on a silica gel column to afford compounds 1-6. The compounds were characterized by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy and mass spectrometry. The inhibitory effect of each compound against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), nitric oxide (NO) and ferric ion radicals were determined by standard in vitro antioxidant methods. The in vitro anti-inflammatory response was measured using egg albumin denaturation (EAD) assay, while the anti-elastase activity of each compound in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells was also monitored. The compounds were characterized as three steroidal derivatives, stigmasterol (1), 17-(1-methyl-allyl)-hexadecahydro-cyclopenta[a]phenanthrene (2) and β-sitosterol (3), dodecanoic acid (4) and two fatty acid esters, ethyl nonadecanoate (5) and ethyl stearate (6). Stigmasterol (1) exhibited the best biological properties, with IC₅₀ of 38.18 ± 2.30 µg/mL against DPPH, 68.56 ± 4.03 µg/mL against NO and 303.58 ± 10.33 µAAE/mg against Fe³⁺. At 6.25 µg/mL, stigmasterol inhibited EAD by 50%. This activity was lower when compared to diclofenac (standard), which demonstrated 75% inhibition of the protein at the same concentration. Compounds 1, 3, 4 and 5 showed comparable anti-elastase activity with an IC₅₀ ≥ 50 µg/mL, whereas the activity of ursolic acid (standard) was double fold with an IC₅₀ of 24.80 ± 2.60 µg/mL when compared to each of the compounds. In conclusion, this study has identified three steroids (1-3), one fatty acid (4), and two fatty acid esters (5 and 6) in C. sexangularis leaf for the first time. The compounds showed considerable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-elastase properties. Thus, the findings may serve as a justification for the folkloric use of the plant as a local skin ingredient. It may also serve to validate the biological role of steroids and fatty acid compounds in cosmeceutical formulations.

Hesperidin, Hesperetin, Rutinose, and Rhamnose Act as Skin Anti-Aging Agents

Aging is a complex physiological process that can be accelerated by chemical (high blood glucose levels) or physical (solar exposure) factors. It is accompanied by the accumulation of altered molecules in the human body. The accumulation of oxidatively modified and glycated proteins is associated with inflammation and the progression of chronic diseases (aging). The use of antiglycating agents is one of the recent approaches in the preventive strategy of aging and natural compounds seem to be promising candidates. Our study focused on the anti-aging effect of the flavonoid hesperetin, its glycoside hesperidin and its carbohydrate moieties rutinose and rhamnose on young and physiologically aged normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). The anti-aging activity of the test compounds was evaluated by measuring matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and inflammatory interleukins by ELISA. The modulation of elastase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase activity by the tested substances was evaluated spectrophotometrically by tube tests. Rutinose and rhamnose inhibited the activity of pure elastase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase. Hesperidin and hesperetin inhibited elastase and hyaluronidase activity. In skin aging models, MMP-1 and MMP-2 levels were reduced after application of all tested substances. Collagen I production was increased after the application of rhamnose and rutinose.

Bio-Guided Optimization of Cystoseira abies-marina Cosmeceuticals Extraction by Advanced Technologies

Cystoseira abies-marina (reclassified as Gongolaria abies-marina) is a brown seaweed species rich in meroterpenoids, presenting interesting antioxidant, antitumor, and anti-inflammatory activities. However, there is still a lot to uncover regarding the bioactive potential of this species, as evidenced by the lack of records of antiaging activities from Cystoseira abies-marina, making this macroalga an excellent candidate for studies of its cosmeceutical potential. Ultrasound-(UAE) and microwave-assisted extraction (MAE) are advanced sustainable technologies that are very efficient in enhancing bioactive compound extraction. Applying these extraction techniques to a new biological matrix often calls for optimizing the parameters toward the best extraction yield. Since Cystoseira abies-marina is a new matrix for both UAE and MAE techniques, the present work proposes the optimization of the extraction process, using a novel approach: instead of only focusing on increasing the yield, the goal of this work is to determine the parameters for UAE and MAE that lead to extracts with better antiaging activities. For this bio-guided approach, several Cystoseira abies-marina extracts were prepared by UAE and MAE under varying conditions of solvent, time, and algae/solvent ratios. Their antiaging activities were then determined, and all the results combined to unveil the conditions yielding extracts with higher cosmeceutical potential. Using statistical tools, it was found that, for UAE, the best conditions were ethyl acetate, 15 min, and a ratio of 1:4, which led to an extract with high yield, and causing the strong inhibition of tyrosinase and elastase. In turn, ethanol, 10 min, and a ratio of 1:4 were the best conditions for MAE, leading to the extract with the best antioxidant activity. The results show that the proposed bio-guided approach was effective in obtaining extracts with high cosmeceutical potential, unveiling the possibility of modulating an extract's activity by changing the extraction method.

Redox Properties, Bioactivity and Health Effects of Indicaxanthin, a Bioavailable Phytochemical from Opuntia ficus indica, L.: A Critical Review of Accumulated Evidence and Perspectives

Phytochemicals from plant foods are considered essential to human health. Known for their role in the adaptation of plants to their environment, these compounds can induce adaptive responses in cells, many of which are directed at maintaining the redox tone. Indicaxanthin is a long-known betalain pigment found in the genus Opuntia of cactus pear and highly concentrated in the edible fruits of O. ficus indica, L. whose bioactivity has been overlooked until recently. This review summarizes studies conducted so far in vitro and in vivo, most of which have been performed in our laboratory. The chemical and physicochemical characteristics of Indicaxanthin are reflected in the molecule's reducing properties and antioxidant effects and help explain its ability to interact with membranes, modulate redox-regulated cellular pathways, and possibly bind to protein molecules. Measurement of bioavailability in volunteers has been key to exploring its bioactivity; amounts consistent with dietary intake, or plasma concentration after dietary consumption of cactus pear fruit, have been used in experimental setups mimicking physiological or pathophysiological conditions, in cells and in animals, finally suggesting pharmacological potential and relevance of Indicaxanthin as a nutraceutical. In reporting experimental results, this review also aimed to raise questions and seek insights for further basic research and health promotion applications.

Enhanced anti-wrinkle activity of adlay bran fermented with Lactobacillus brevis MJM60390

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to screen the lactic acid bacteria for fermentation of adlay bran and evaluate the anti-wrinkle effect of fermented and non-fermented adlay bran.

METHODS

Adlay bran was fermented with candidate LAB and extracted with 70% ethanol. The extracts from LAB-fermented adlay bran and non-fermented adlay bran were evaluated for the anti-wrinkle effects by measuring the hyaluronan, collagen, and elastin production in cells using ELISA kit. The molecular anti-wrinkle mechanism was investigated by RT-qPCR. Furthermore, the antioxidant activity, total phenolic and flavonoid content were also determined.

RESULTS

Among the tested LAB, Lactobacillus brevis MJM60390 was selected for the highest glycosidase activity. Both extracts from adlay bran (NFAB) and L. brevis MJM60390-fermented adlay bran (LBFAB) showed anti-wrinkle effect, and LBFAB showed higher activity. Compared with control, hyaluronan production was increased by 24.73% and 59.38%, collagen production was increased by -13.08% and 34.19%, and the elastin production was increased by 29.78% and 53.73% by NFAB and LBFAB treatment, respectively. Investigation on the mRNA expression showed that LBFAB upregulated the expression of Has 2 and Has 3 and downregulate HYAL1 and HYAL2. LBFAB also upregulated the mRNA expression of COL1A1, COL1A2, ELN and inhibited the expression of collagenase and elastase. However, not all of these genes were regulated by NFAB. Furthermore, the antioxidant activity was significantly increased after fermentation, and the content of the phenolic and flavonoid compounds also increased in the LBFAB.

CONCLUSIONS

In this study, we demonstrated that fermentation of adlay bran with L. brevis MJM60390 enhanced the anti-wrinkle activity through increasing the hyaluronan synthesis in keratinocytes and improving collagen and elastin production in dermal fibroblasts.

Saccorhiza polyschides-A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations

The growing knowledge about the harmful effects caused by some synthetic ingredients present in skincare products has led to an extensive search for natural bioactives. Thus, this study aimed to investigate the dermatological potential of five fractions (F1-F5), obtained by a sequential extraction procedure, from the brown seaweed Saccorhiza polyschides. The antioxidant (DPPH, FRAP, ORAC and TPC), anti-enzymatic (collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and tyrosinase), antimicrobial (Staphylococcus epidermidis, Cutibacterium acnes and Malassezia furfur), anti-inflammatory (nitric oxide, tumor necrosis factor-α, interleukin-6 and interleukin-10) and photoprotective (reactive oxygen species) properties of all fractions were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) displayed the highest antioxidant and photoprotective capacity, reducing ROS levels in UVA/B-exposed 3T3 fibroblasts, and the highest anti-enzymatic capacity against tyrosinase (IC50 value: 89.1 µg/mL). The solid water-insoluble fraction (F5) revealed the greatest antimicrobial activity against C. acnes growth (IC50 value: 12.4 µg/mL). Furthermore, all fractions demonstrated anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 levels in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced with lipopolysaccharides. Chemical analysis of the S. polyschides fractions by NMR revealed the presence of different classes of compounds, including lipids, polyphenols and sugars. The results highlight the potential of S. polyschides to be incorporated into new nature-based skincare products.

Phenolic Profile, Antioxidant, Anti-Enzymatic and Cytotoxic Activity of the Fruits and Roots of Eleutherococcus senticosus (Rupr. et Maxim.) Maxim

Eleutherococcus senticosus (Rupr. et Maxim.) Maxim. is well-known for its adaptogenic properties in traditional Eastern medicine. It has been categorized as an endangered species due to the over-exploitation of the roots. As a result, alternatives must be found, including the usage of renewable aerial parts such as fruits. The goal of this research was to determine the phenolic compounds and the enzymatic, antioxidant, and cytotoxic activities of the intractum gained from the E. senticosus fruits and the mixture of chloroform-methanol roots extract with naringenin (3:7:5). The obtained results showed, that the intractum contained 1.02 mg/g ext. of polyphenols, 0.30 mg/g ext. of flavonoids, and 0.19 mg/g ext. of phenolic acids. In turn, the mixture of chloroform-methanol roots extract with naringenin (3:7:5) contained 159.27 mg/g ext. of polyphenols, 137.47 mg/g ext. of flavonoids, and 79.99 mg/g ext. of phenolic acids. Regarding the anti-enzymatic assay, the IC50 values for tyrosinase and hyaluronidase were equal to 586.83 and 217.44 [μg/mL] for the intractum, and 162.56 and 44.80 [μg/mL] for the mixture, respectively. Both preparations have possessed significant antioxidant activity in the ABTS, DPPH, and ferrozine tests. No cytotoxic effect on the FaDu and HEP G2 cancer cell lines was observed. Our findings support the traditional use of fruits and roots. Moreover, the results indicate also that adaptogens are rather nontoxic for normal and cancer cells, which corresponds with some hypotheses on adaptogens activity.

Euphorbia characias Extract: Inhibition of Skin Aging-Related Enzymes and Nanoformulation

Plant extracts have long served as important sources of bioactive compounds, and they are currently the focus of extensive research in the development of novel preventive and therapeutic strategies. However, their health benefits are often limited by low bioavailability. Nanoparticle delivery systems can represent a solution to such limitations. Euphorbia characias is a Mediterranean shrub known to have biological activities, such as inhibiting tyrosinase and showing a potential role as a skin-whitening agent. In this study, an ethanolic extract from E. characias leaves was tested for its inhibitory activity on skin-related enzymes, such as elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, and for sun protection factors. Moreover, the extract was formulated in phospholipid vesicles to improve its local bioavailability and applicability. The vesicles were characterized by size, surface charge, storage stability, and entrapment efficiency. The nanoformulation was also evaluated for antioxidant activity and assayed for cytocompatibility and anti-tyrosinase activity in melanoma cells. Our findings demonstrated that the extract has a photo-protective effect and enzyme-inhibitory properties. E. characias nanoformulation was also cytocompatible and improved the extract’s activity in the cells, suggesting a potential skin application for antimelanogenic treatments and confirming the key role of nanotechnological approaches to maximize plant extract’s potentialities.

A Strategic Review on Carbon Quantum Dots for Cancer-Diagnostics and Treatment

The understanding of the genesis of life-threatening cancer and its invasion calls for urgent development of novel technologies for real-time observations, early diagnosis, and treatment. Quantum dots (QDs) grabbed the spotlight in oncology owing to their excellent photostability, bright fluorescence, high biocompatibility, good electrical and chemical stability with minimum invasiveness. Recently, carbon QDs (CQDs) have become popular over toxic inorganic QDs in the area of bioimaging, biosensing, and drug delivery. Further, CQDs derived from natural sources like biomolecules and medicinal plants have drawn attention because of their one-pot, low-cost and ease of synthesis, along with remarkable tunable optical properties and biocompatibility. This review introduces the synthesis and properties of CQDs derived from natural sources, focusing on the applicability of CQD-based technologies as nano-theranostics for the diagnosis and treatment of cancer. Furthermore, the current issues and future directions for the transformation of CQDs-based nanotechnologies to clinical applications are highlighted.

Polyphenolic profile and ethno pharmacological activities of Callistemonsubulatus (Cheel) Craven leaves cultivated in Egypt

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The genus Callistemon (syn. Melaleuca) of the myrtle family (Myrtaceae) has been documented as an integral part in the ethnobotanical system of the indigenous people of Australian mainland and many of its islands. Several Callistemons including the species subulatus were used by aboriginal Australians for making rafts, roofs for shelters, bandages, and food recipes, in addition to the management of wounds, infections, pain, cough, bronchitis, and gastrointestinal tract (GIT) disorders.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The current study is designed to document the therapeutic effect of the aqueous methanolic extract (AME) of C. sabulatus Chell (syn. M. sabulata) leaves in the management of diarrhea and pain. Also, its influence on additional pharmacological modalities that are related to oxidative stress just as skin aging. Ultimately, the polyphenolic profile of the extract is disclosed and correlated to the aforementioned bioactivities.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The extract was fractionated using various chromatography techniques and the structures of the isolated compounds were determined based on their chemical and spectral data. The antioxidant activity was assessed using multiple models, including 2,2-diphenyl-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) and β-carotene bleaching assays. The anti-skin aging effect was evaluated using different relevant enzymatic assays. The antinociceptive activity was investigated using acetic acid-induced writhing, hot plate test, and formalin-induced paw licking in mice models. The antidiarrheal activity was gauge using the castor oil induced diarrhea, enter pooling and gastrointestinal motility in vivo models.

RESULTS

Diverse polyphenols, including quercetin-3-O-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (1), kaempferol-3-O-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (2), strictinin (3), quercetin-3-O-(2``-O-galloyl)-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (4), afzelin (5), di-galloyl glucose (6), mono-galloyl glucose (7), acacetin (8), apigenin-6,7-dimethyl ether (9), kaempferol trimethyl ether (10), dimethoxy chrysin (11), quercetin (12), kaempferol (13), methyl gallate (14), and gallic acid (15) were identified. The extract exhibited as significant antioxidant activity even better than that of Trolox or BHT. Moreover, it exerts elastase, tyrosinase, and collagenase inhibition activities, in addition to the significant peripheral and central analgesic activity in a dose-dependent manner (P < 0.0001). In castor oil induced diarrhea model, AME significantly prolonged the diarrhea onset, decreased the frequency of defecation, and weight of feces. Likewise, it exhibited a significant reduction in the gastrointestinal motility in charcoal meal model (P < 0.0001) and a considerable inhibitory effect on gastrointestinal transit and peristaltic index with all investigated doses (P < 0.0001).

CONCLUSION

Ethnobotanicals are versatile resources for the management of various ailments by indigenous people and the experimental research is utmost to validate and uncover their pharmacological relevance. C. sabulatus leaves have strong antioxidant, analgesic, anti-skin aging, and antidiarrheal activities which are validated for the first time by various in vitro and in vivo models. The metabolic profile of the unprecedented AME of C. sabulatus leaves compromises a wide array of bioactive polyphenolic metabolites including, flavonoids, tannins, and phenolic acids that are correlated to the observed bioactivities. Altogether, ethnobotanicals with high and diverse contents of polyphenols are potential candidates for the management of various human aliments including neuropathies, GIT disorders, and skin aging conditions.

GC- and UHPLC-MS Profiles as a Tool to Valorize the Red Alga Asparagopsis armata

Asparagopsis armata Harvey is a red alga native from the southern hemisphere and then introduced in the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, including the Azores Archipelago, where it is considered an invasive alga. Some studies show that the extracts exhibit antimicrobial and antifouling activities, and it is incorporated in some commercialized cosmetic products. (e.g., Ysaline®). However, knowledge of this species chemical composition is scarce. The GC-MS and UHPLC-MS profiles of both the nonpolar and polar extracts were established to contribute to this problem solution. According to the results, A. armata is rich in a great structural variety of halogenated lipophilic and aromatic compounds, some of them identified here for the first time. In the lipophilic extract, 25 compounds are identified, being the halogenated compounds and fatty acids, the two major compound families, corresponding to 54.8% and 35.7% of identified compounds (224 and 147 mg/100 g of dry algae, respectively). The 1,4-dibromobuten-1-ol and the palmitic acid are the two most abundant identified compounds (155 and 83.4 mg/100 g of dry algae, respectively). The polar extract demonstrated the richness of this species in brominated phenolics, from which the cinnamic acid derivatives are predominant. The results obtained herein open new perspectives for valuing the A. armata as a source of halogenated compounds and fatty acids, consequently improving its biotechnological and economic potential. Promoting this seaweed and the consequent increase in its demand will contribute to biodiversity conservation and ecosystem sustainability.

Essential oils from the leaves and flowers of Leucophyllum frutescens (Scrophulariaceae): phytochemical analysis and inhibitory effects against elastase and collagenase in vitro

Leucophyllum frutescens (Scrophulariaceae) is a medicinal plant of Mexican traditional medicine. The aim of this study was to analyse the volatile components from the leaves and flowers by GC/MS and to assess their anti-aging activity for the first time. A total of 30 compounds were identified where 1-octen-3-ol (73.56%) and D-limonene (11.12%) represented the major ingredients in the leaves, while n-heneicosane (32.30%) and dehydroepingaione (15.15%) were the major components in the flowers. In vitro anti-aging activity was measured via assessing collagenase and elastase inhibition. Essential oils from the leaves and flowers showed potential collagenase inhibitory activity with IC₅₀ of 55.7 and 47.4 µg/mL. However, the oils from the leaves and flowers showed moderate anti-elastase activity with IC₅₀ of 60.8 and 97.7 µg/mL. Therefore, the oil of Leucophyllum frutescens could afford a promising natural anti-aging drug.

Evaluating the Antioxidants, Whitening and Antiaging Properties of Rice Protein Hydrolysates

Plant-derived protein hydrolysates have potential applications in nutrition. Rice protein hydrolysates (RPHs), an excellent source of proteins, have attracted attention for the development of cosmeceuticals. However, few studies have reported the potential application of RPH in analysis, and this study examined their antioxidant activities and the inhibitory activities of skin aging enzymes. The results indicated that the total phenolic and flavonoid concentrations were 2.06 ± 0.13 mg gallic acid equivalent/g RPHs and 25.96 ± 0.52 µg quercetin equivalent/g RPHs, respectively. RPHs demonstrated dose-dependent activity for scavenging free radicals from 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl [half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) = 42.58 ± 2.1 mg/g RPHs] and 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (IC50 = 2.11 ± 0.88 mg/g RPHs), dose-dependent reduction capacity (6.95 ± 1.40 mg vitamin C equivalent/g RPHs) and oxygen radical absorbance capacity (473 µmol Trolox equivalent/g RPHs). The concentrations of the RPH solution required to achieve 50% inhibition of hyaluronidase and tyrosinase activities were determined to be 8.91 and 107.6 mg/mL, respectively. This study demonstrated that RPHs have antioxidant, antihyaluronidase, and antityrosinase activities for future cosmetic applications.

A Unique Acylated Flavonol Glycoside from Prunus persica (L.) var. Florida Prince: A New Solid Lipid Nanoparticle Cosmeceutical Formulation for Skincare

Polyphenols are known dietary antioxidants. They have recently attracted considerable interest in uses to prevent skin aging and hyperpigmentation resulting from solar UV-irradiation. Prunus persica (L.) leaves are considered by-products and were reported to have a remarkable antioxidant activity due to their high content of polyphenols. This study aimed at the development of a cosmeceutical anti-aging and skin whitening cream preparation using ethanol leaves extract of Prunus persica (L.) (PPEE) loaded in solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) to enhance the skin delivery. Chemical investigation of PPEE showed significantly high total phenolic and flavonoids content with notable antioxidant activities (DPPH, ABTS, and β-carotene assays). A unique acylated kaempferol glycoside with a rare structure, kaempferol 3-O-β-⁴C₁-(6″-O-3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetyl glucopyranoside) (KDPAG) was isolated for the first time and its structure fully elucidated. It represents the first example of acylation with 3,4-dihydroxyphenyl acetic acid in flavonoid chemistry. The in-vitro cytotoxicity studies against a human keratinocytes cell line revealed the non-toxicity of PPEE and PPEE-SLNs. Moreover, PPEE, PPEE-SLNs, and KDPAG showed good anti-elastase activity, comparable to that of N-(Methoxysuccinyl)-Ala-Ala-Pro-Val-chloromethyl ketone. Besides, PPEE-SLNs and KDPAG showed significantly (p < 0.001) higher anti-collagenase and anti-tyrosinase activities in comparison to EDTA and kojic acid, respectively. Different PPEE-SLNs cream formulae (2% and 5%) were evaluated for possible anti-wrinkle activity against UV-induced photoaging in a mouse model using a wrinkle scoring method and were shown to offer a highly significant protective effect against UV, as evidenced by tissue biomarkers (SOD) and histopathological studies. Thus, the current study demonstrates that Prunus persica leaf by-products provide an interesting, valuable resource for natural cosmetic ingredients. This provides related data for further studying the potential safe use of PPEE-SLNs in topical anti-aging cosmetic formulations with enhanced skin permeation properties.

Unravelling the Dermatological Potential of the Brown Seaweed Carpomitra costata

The ever-increasing interest in keeping a young appearance and healthy skin has leveraged the skincare industry. This, coupled together with the increased concern regarding the safety of synthetic products, has boosted the demand for new and safer natural ingredients. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the dermatological potential of the brown seaweed Carpomitra costata. The antioxidant, anti-enzymatic, antimicrobial, photoprotective and anti-inflammatory properties of five C. costata fractions (F1-F5) were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) demonstrated the most promising results, with the best ability to scavenge 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals (EC50 of 140.1 µg/mL) and the capacity to reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) production promoted by UVA and UVB radiation in 3T3 cells, revealing its antioxidant and photoprotective potential. This fraction also exhibited the highest anti-enzymatic capacity, inhibiting the activities of collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase (IC50 of 7.2, 4.8 and 85.9 µg/mL, respectively). Moreover, F3 showed anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 release induced by LPS treatment in RAW 264.7 cells. These bioactivities may be related to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as phlorotannins, as demonstrated by NMR analysis. The results highlight the potential of C. costata as a source of bioactive ingredients for further dermatological applications.

Unravelling the Dermatological Potential of the Brown Seaweed Carpomitra costata

The ever-increasing interest in keeping a young appearance and healthy skin has leveraged the skincare industry. This, coupled together with the increased concern regarding the safety of synthetic products, has boosted the demand for new and safer natural ingredients. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the dermatological potential of the brown seaweed Carpomitra costata. The antioxidant, anti-enzymatic, antimicrobial, photoprotective and anti-inflammatory properties of five C. costata fractions (F1–F5) were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) demonstrated the most promising results, with the best ability to scavenge 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals (EC50 of 140.1 µg/mL) and the capacity to reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) production promoted by UVA and UVB radiation in 3T3 cells, revealing its antioxidant and photoprotective potential. This fraction also exhibited the highest anti-enzymatic capacity, inhibiting the activities of collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase (IC50 of 7.2, 4.8 and 85.9 µg/mL, respectively). Moreover, F3 showed anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 release induced by LPS treatment in RAW 264.7 cells. These bioactivities may be related to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as phlorotannins, as demonstrated by NMR analysis. The results highlight the potential of C. costata as a source of bioactive ingredients for further dermatological applications.

Antiphotoaging Potential of Extracts of Yin-Tonic Herbal Medicine in Skin Cell and Human Skin Equivalent

Yin-tonic herbal medicines have been shown to possess properties that make skin healthy by nourishing within various organs of the body. However, the antiphotoaging effect of these medicines on the skin has not been fully studied. Photoaging occurs with prolonged sun exposure and causes skin damage and aging, with depletion of the dermal extracellular matrix and chronic alterations in skin structure, such as wrinkles. In this study, we assessed the antiphotoaging effects of eight yin-tonic herbal medicines on human skin cells and skin equivalents. The levels of type I procollagen and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) in ultraviolet B- (UVB-) irradiated CCD-986sk fibroblasts were measured, and then three medicines were chosen based on screening results. Using UVB-irradiated human skin equivalents, we evaluated the effect of three yin-tonic herbal medicines on histological changes of skin, epidermal and dermal thickness, and MMP-1 production. Furthermore, we observed collagen fiber content and protein expression of filaggrin in UVB-irradiated human skin equivalents. Yin-tonic herbal medicines increased type I procollagen levels and decreased the production of MMP-1 in UVB-irradiated CCD-986sk fibroblasts. The three selected yin-tonic herbal medicines recovered the collagen content and filaggrin expression via MMP-1 downregulation in UVB-irradiated human skin equivalents. Our results show that yin-tonic herbal medicines can prevent skin photoaging by reduction of MMP-1 levels and increasing the expression of moisturizing factors. Based on these results, we suggest that yin-tonic herbal medicines have the potential to be used as helpful agent for skin photoaging.

Xanthones for melanogenesis inhibition: Molecular docking and QSAR studies to understand their anti-tyrosinase activity

The human skin is constantly exposed to external factors that affect its integrity, UV radiation being one of the main stress factors. The repeated exposure to this radiation leads to increased production of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) which activate a series of processes involved in photoaging. Excessive UV exposure also exacerbates melanin production leading to a variety of pigmentation disorders. Xanthones are reported to exhibit properties that prevent deleterious effects of UV exposure and high levels of ROS in the organism, so in this work a wide library of xanthones with different patterns of substitution was synthesized and tested for their inhibitory activity against the skin enzymes tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase, many of which were evaluated for the first time. Most of the compounds were tyrosinase inhibitors, with the best one (xanthone 27) presenting an IC₅₀ of 1.9 µM, which is approximately 6 times lower than the IC₅₀ of the positive control kojic acid. Concerning the other enzymes, only one compound presented IC₅₀ lower than 150 µM in elastase inhibition (xanthone 14 = 91.8 µM) and none in collagenase and hyaluronidase inhibition. A QSAR model for tyrosinase inhibitory activity was built using six molecular descriptors, with a partial negative surface area descriptor and the relative number of oxygen atoms being positively contributing to the tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Docking using AutoDock Vina shows that all the tested compounds have more affinity to mushroom tyrosinase than kojic acid. Docking results implied that the tyrosinase inhibitory mechanisms of xanthonic derivatives are attributed to an allosteric interaction. Taken together, these data suggest that xanthones might be useful scaffolds for the development of new and promising candidates for the treatment of pigmentation-related disorders and for skin whitening cosmetic products.

Pharmacological and Cosmeceutical Potential of Seaweed Beach-Casts of Macaronesia

Seaweed beach-casts are a seasonal phenomenon that regularly deposits tons of algae biomass on beaches, which are usually disposed of in landfills. The present work aimed to contribute to the valorization of this biomass by studying bioactivities that reveal its potential in the pharmaceutical and/or cosmeceutical industries. Methanol and ethanol extracts and fractions from 15 beach-casts biomass were tested for a range of bioactivities. Eight of the most active samples exhibit IC50 values between 11.38 µg/mL and 19.28 µg/mL and selectivity indexes higher than 3.8, against NCI-H1299 (lung cancer) and T47D (breast cancer). Concerning antiaging potential, all the extracts tested presented UV protection, with SPF values above 30, like the standard sunscreen. Regarding aging-related enzymes, 24 samples were tyrosinase inhibitors exhibiting IC50 values from 9.01 µg/mL to 200.09 µg/mL. Eight extracts inhibited collagenase (IC50 < 248.76 µg/mL), two of them more actively than positive control EDTA (IC50 = 59.26 µg/mL). In addition to UV protection, the cumulative effect of antityrosinase and anticollagenase activities shown by the samples suggest that they may play a significant role in preventing skin photoaging. The results obtained demonstrate the high potential of beach-cast seaweed biomass as sources of cosmetic bioproducts with antiaging effects, and of selective cytotoxic metabolites.

Efficacy, Stability, and Safety Evaluation of New Polyphenolic Xanthones Towards Identification of Bioactive Compounds to Fight Skin Photoaging

Antioxidants have long been used in the cosmetic industry to prevent skin photoaging, which is mediated by oxidative stress, making the search for new antioxidant compounds highly desirable in this field. Naturally occurring xanthones are polyphenolic compounds that can be found in microorganisms, fungi, lichens, and some higher plants. This class of polyphenols has a privileged scaffold that grants them several biological activities. We have previously identified simple oxygenated xanthones as promising antioxidants and disclosed as hit, 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1). Herein, we synthesized and studied the potential of xanthones with different polyoxygenated patterns as skin antiphotoaging ingredients. In the DPPH antioxidant assay, two newly synthesized derivatives showed IC₅₀ values in the same range as ascorbic acid. The synthesized xanthones were discovered to be excellent tyrosinase inhibitors and weak to moderate collagenase and elastase inhibitors but no activity was revealed against hyaluronidase. Their metal-chelating effect (FeCl₃ and CuCl₂) as well as their stability at different pH values were characterized to understand their potential to be used as future cosmetic active agents. Among the synthesized polyoxygenated xanthones, 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1) was reinforced as the most promising, exhibiting a dual ability to protect the skin against UV damage by combining antioxidant/metal-chelating properties with UV-filter capacity and revealed to be more stable in the pH range that is close to the pH of the skin. Lastly, the phototoxicity of 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1) was evaluated in a human keratinocyte cell line and no phototoxicity was observed in the concentration range tested.

Premna odorata: Seasonal Metabolic Variation in the Essential Oil Composition of Its Leaf and Verification of Its Anti-Ageing Potential via In Vitro Assays and Molecular Modelling

The metabolic variation in the essential oil composition of Premna odorata leaves obtained from different seasons was quantitatively and qualitatively determined employing GC/MS (Gas Chromatography coupled with Mass Spectrometry) and GC/FID (Gas chromatography equipped with flame ionization detector) techniques. It displayed the existence of 97 constituents accounting for 94.19%, 92.27%, 91.95% and 92.63% for POS (spring), POM (summer), POA (autumn) and POW (winter) whole essential oils. β-Caryophyllene constituting the main metabolite in the oil in the different seasons. To better visualize the differences between them, GC data were exposed to chemometric analysis. A PCA (principal component analysis) score plot revealed the closeness of POS and POW. Molecular modelling on collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase enzymes active centres shows that different compounds existing in the essential oil of Premna odorata leaves shows binding to the active sites with variable degrees that suggested its anti-ageing potential. Palmitic acid displayed the highest fitting for both the collagenase and elastase active centres in both pH-based and rule-based ionization methods with ∆G equals -78.27 and -44.77 kcal/mol, respectively; meanwhile, heptacosane showed the highest fitting score in the hyaluronidase centre with ∆G = -43.78 kcal/mol. In vitro assays consolidates the obtained modelling studies in which essential oil shows considerable anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase potential as evidenced by their IC₅₀ values being 49.3 and 37.7 μg/mL, respectively; meanwhile, the essential oil of Premna odorata leaves displayed mild anti-collagenase potential. Thus, it can be concluded that Premna odorata could serve as a promising anti-ageing naturally occurring drug that could be effectively incorporated by pharmaceutical industries in cosmetics combating ageing and skin wrinkling.

Potential Antioxidant and Enzyme Inhibitory Effects of Nanoliposomal Formulation Prepared from Salvia aramiensis Rech. f. Extract

Salvia aramiensis Rech. f. is a species that grows only in Hatay, Turkey and is used as a traditional stomachic tea. Neither the chemical composition nor the potential bioactivity of the plant has been investigated before. Antioxidant activity (1,1-Diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl Radical (DPPH^●) and 2,2’-Azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS^+●) radical scavenging and β-carotene/linoleic acid co-oxidation) of 70% methanol, 70% ethanol extracts, and 2% infusion obtained from S. aramiensis aerial parts were determined. The effect of 70% methanol extract on collagenase and elastase enzyme inhibition and its chemical composition via chromatographic methods (LC-MS/MS and HPLC) were analyzed. Nanoliposomes were developed with 70% methanol extract, were characterized, and were evaluated. The key parameters for the most active 70% methanol extract included the following DPPH^•EC₅₀: 28.4 µg/mL, Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC)/ABTS: 1.77 ± 0.09 mmol/L/Trolox. Furthermore 70% methanol extract showed more than 50% inhibition on collagenase and elastase enzymes at all the concentrations. The main component of the extract, rich in phenolic compounds, has been identified as rosmarinic acid; 83.7 µg/mL extract was released from the nanoliposomal formulation. The extract and its formulation are found to be nontoxic on the L929 fibroblast cell line. This study successfully developed a long-term antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory formulation containing S. aramiensis, which has been used safely among the public for years.

Unravelling Cellular Mechanisms of Stem Cell Senescence: An Aid from Natural Bioactive Molecules

Cellular senescence plays a role in the onset of age-related pathologies and in the loss of tissue homeostasis. Natural compounds of food or plants exert an important antioxidant activity, counteracting the formation of harmful free radicals. In the presence of an intense stressing event, cells activate specific responses to counteract senescence or cell death. In the present paper, we aimed at evaluating the levels of expression of specific markers of senescence, in order to demonstrate that extracts from Myrtus Communis L. can prevent premature senescence in ADSCs exposed to oxidative stress. Cells were cultured in the presence of Myrtus extracts for 12-24 and 48 h and then incubated with H₂O₂ to induce senescence. We then evaluated the expression of senescence-related markers p16, p19, p21, p53, TERT, c-Myc, and the senescence-associated β-Galactoidase activity. Our results showed that pre-treatment with Myrtus extracts protects cells from premature senescence, by regulating the cell cycle, and inducing the expression of TERT and c-Myc. These findings suggest a potential application of these natural compounds in the prevention and treatment of various diseases, counteracting premature senescence and preserving tissue functions.

Characterization and Antioxidant Activity of Collagen, Gelatin, and the Derived Peptides from Yellowfin Tuna (Thunnus albacares) Skin

Skin waste from tuna processing needs to be utilized, such as extraction of its collagen and gelatin. Their functional properties can be improved by enzymatic hydrolysis for conversion to peptides. Thus, the research objectives were to examine the characteristics and antioxidant activity of collagen, gelatin, and the derived peptide from yellowfin tuna skin. Collagen was extracted using 0.75 M acetic acid at 4 °C, while gelatin was prepared using 0.25% citric acid and extracted at 65 °C. Hydrolysis was carried out with 2% Alcalase, followed by fractionation with a molecular weight cut off sieve for both collagen and gelatin. Collagen yield was 22.6% with pH value of 6.63 and whiteness of 96.7%. Gelatin yield was 20.0% with pH value of 4.94 and whiteness of 51.0%. Hydrolysis for three hours resulted in 52.7% and 45.2% degree of hydrolysis for collagen and gelatin, respectively. The molecular weights of collagen peptides ranged from 2.94 to 11.93 kDa, while those of gelatin peptides ranged from 3.54 to 16,620 kDa. Antioxidant activities of these peptides were higher than those before hydrolysis. The high antioxidant activity (IC50) of collagen peptides were found in <3, 3-10, and 10-30 kDa fractions as well as in the gelatin peptides.

Antiglycation and Antioxidant Activity from Methanol Extract and Fraction of Xylocarpus granatum Stem

The objective of this research was to determine the antioxidant and antiglycation activity of methanol crude extract of Xylocarpus granatum stem and its fraction. The methanol crude extract was fractioned by liquid-liquid extraction to obtain three fractions, which were n-hexane fraction, ethyl acetate fraction, and methanol fraction. Antioxidant activity was performed using scavenging 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH). The antiaging activity was identified based on the ability to inhibit the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). The results of the study showed that methanol crude extract and all fractions had an antioxidant and antiglycation activity that significantly different from each other (P<0.05). The results show that the most active antiglycation and antioxidant activity was the methanol fraction with IC50 were 71.55 ppm and 8.52 ppm, respectively. The methanol fraction contained an alkaloid, flavonoid, phenolic, and triterpenoid compounds. Subsequent fractionation of the methanol fraction guided by bioassay showed that sub-fraction 1 had the best antiglycation and antioxidant activity. Based on the color of the chromatogram obtained at UV 366 nm, the chemical component contained in the most active fraction was the flavonoid group.

Comparative study on skin protection activity of polyphenol-rich extract and polysaccharide-rich extract from Sargassum vachellianum

Seaweed polyphenols and polysaccharide plays a broad range of biological activity. The objective of the present study was to study and compare the skin protection activity of fucoidan rich polysaccharide extract (SPS) and polyphenol-rich extract (SPP) from the seaweed Sargassum vachellianum. The skin protection activity was analyzed based on their ability to scavenge free radicals such as hydrogen peroxide and hydroxyl radicals, UV absorption potential, tyrosinase inhibition, moisture preservation, and antibacterial activity. From the results, both SPP and SPS protects the skin from UV damage. SPP showed good free radical scavenging ability, antimicrobial activity against E.coli and S. aureus and effectively absorbed the UVB and UVA rays whereas SPS hardly absorbs the UVA and UVB rays and showed weak free radical scavenging ability and no antimicrobial activity. SPS showed considerable inhibition on tyrosinase (51.21%) and had better moisture absorption (52.1%) and retention (63.24%) abilities than SPP. The results specified that both SPS and SPP have balancing potential on skin protection and suitable combinations of both could act as an active ingredient in cosmetics.

Potential Use of Seaweed Bioactive Compounds in Skincare-A Review

Modern lifestyles have developed new attention on appearance and personal care which attract a huge number of consumers towards cosmetic products. The demand for a skincare product with natural ingredients is rapidly increasing. Seaweeds are major resources for in-demand active compounds with a wide variety of applications. The use of seaweed-derived ingredients in cosmetic products has increased in recent years as many scientific studies have proved the potential skincare properties of seaweed bioactive compounds. This review emphasizes possible skincare properties of seaweed bioactive compounds. The review outlines the mechanism involved in skin problems including hyperpigmentation, premature skin aging, and acne in the first part while the second part focuses on the promising application of seaweeds in skin protection by highlighting the bioactive compound responsible for their bioactivity.

Unravelling property of polysaccharides from Sargassum sp. as an anti-wrinkle and skin whitening property

In recent years, the natural ingredients are in high demand in formulating the cosmetic products. Seaweed polysaccharides signify the attractive natural ingredient with a wide range of functional properties that are expected for cosmeceutical formulations. The present work aimed to study the skin protection ability of polysaccharides extracted from Sargassum vachellianum (SvP), Sargassum horneri (ShoP) and Sargassum hemiphyllum (SheP). The extracted crude polysaccharides were characterized by HPLC and FTIR, which revealed that the polysaccharides are fucose-containing sulfated polysaccharides. Skin whitening and anti-wrinkling activity were analyzed by the ability to inhibit tyrosinase and elastase. The results revealed that the ShoP showed maximum tyrosinase inhibition (64.72 ± 0.46%) and SvP exhibited considerable elastase inhibition (30.12 ± 0.33%). The maximum moisture absorption (79.7 ± 0.62%) and retention (68.99 ± 0.64%) ability were observed in ShoP. The antioxidant activity was estimated by DPPH, superoxide radical scavenging, reducing power and total antioxidant activity. All the tested polysaccharides showed antioxidant activity in a dose-dependent manner, among them ShoP exhibited maximum total antioxidant (80.93 ± 0.17%) and superoxide radical scavenging activity (67.4 ± 0.42%) whereas SheP showed maximum DPPH radical scavenging activity (74.56 ± 0.10%). Therefore, the present study indicates the potential of polysaccharides, ShoP, SvP and SheP as a promising cosmetic ingredient in cosmeceuticals.

Sideritis Perfoliata (Subsp. Perfoliata) Nutritive Value and Its Potential Medicinal Properties

Sideritis perfoliata L. subsp. perfoliata is an endemic species of the Eastern Mediterranean region with several uses in traditional medicine. The present study aims to explore the unknown properties of S. perfoliata investigating the nutritional content as well as the antioxidant, anticancer, antituberculosis, antiwrinkle, anti-acne, hyper/hypo-pigmentation and antibacterial activities. Mineral content, nutritional value, the composition and antioxidant properties of the essential oil, the antityrosinase, the antibacterial activity and anti-elastase potential of the extract, were evaluated. The antiproliferative activity of S. perfoliata against cervical cancer (HeLa), human melanoma (UCT-Mel-1), human hepatocellular carcinoma (HepG2) and human epidermoid carcinoma (A431) was investigated. Cytotoxic effects on normal human keratinocyte (HaCat) and kidney epithelial (Vero) cell lines were also determined. Sideritis perfoliata exhibited high nutritional value of proteins and minerals (K, P, Mg, Fe, Zn, Cu). The most abundant components of the essential oil were found to be α-pinene, β-phelladrene, valeranone, β-pinene and sabinene. The ethanolic extract of S. perfoliata displayed moderate antioxidant potential and antibacterial activity against Prevotella intermedia. Noteworthy elastase and moderate anticancer potential against the human liver cancer cell line (HepG2) was observed with IC₅₀ values of 57.18 ± 3.22 μg/mL and 64.27 ± 2.04 μg/mL respectively. The noteworthy in vitro activity of S. perfoliata could be due to the presence of flavonoids and phenols in the leaves, having high nutritional value. Sideritis perfoliata could potentially be useful to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and for the treatment of liver cancer. The moderate antibacterial, antioxidant and elastase activity of the plant can be linked to the traditional use of S. perfoliata for the treatment of wounds and inflammation.

NMR-Based Metabolomics Profiling for Radical Scavenging and Anti-Aging Properties of Selected Herbs

Herbs that are usually recognized as medicinal plants are well known for their therapeutic effects and are traditionally used to treat numerous diseases, including aging. This study aimed to evaluate the metabolite variations among six selected herbs namely Curcurma longa, Oenanthe javanica, Vitex negundo, Pluchea indica, Cosmos caudatus and Persicaria minus using proton nuclear magnetic resonance (¹H-NMR) coupled with multivariate data analysis (MVDA). The free radical scavenging activity of the extract was measured by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2-azinobis(3-ethyl-benzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) and oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC) assay. The anti-aging property was characterized by anti-elastase and anti-collagenase inhibitory activities. The results revealed that P. minus showed the highest radical scavenging activities and anti-aging properties. The partial least squares (PLS) biplot indicated the presence of potent metabolites in P. minus such as quercetin, quercetin-3-O-rhamnoside (quercitrin), myricetin derivatives, catechin, isorhamnetin, astragalin and apigenin. It can be concluded that P. minus can be considered as a potential source for an anti-aging ingredient and also a good free radical eradicator. Therefore, P. minus could be used in future development in anti-aging researches and medicinal ingredient preparations.

Skin Protective Activity of Silymarin and its Flavonolignans

Silybum marianum (L.) is a medicinal plant traditionally used in treatment of liver disorders. In last decades, silymarin (SM), a standardized extract from S. marianum seeds has been studied for its dermatological application, namely for UVB-protective properties. However, information on SM and its polyphenols effect on activity of enzymes participating in the (photo)aging process is limited. Therefore, evaluation of SM and its flavonolignans potential to inhibit collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase in tube tests was the goal of this study. The antioxidant and UV screening properties of SM and its flavonolignans silybin, isosilybin, silydianin, silychristin and 2,3-dehydrosilybin (DHSB) were also evaluated by a DPPH assay and spectrophotometrical measurement. DHSB showed the highest ability to scavenge DPPH radical and also revealed the highest UVA protection factor (PF-UVA) that corresponds with its absorption spectrum. SM and studied flavonolignans were found to exhibit anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activity. The most potent flavonolignan was DHSB. None of studied flavonolignans or SM showed anti-hyaluronidase activity. Our results suggest that SM and its flavonolignans may be useful agents for skin protection against the harmful effects of full-spectrum solar radiation including slowing down skin (photo)aging.

Secondary metabolite profiling, cytotoxicity, anti-inflammatory potential and in vitro inhibitory activities of Nardostachys jatamansi on key enzymes linked to hyperglycemia, hypertension and cognitive disorders

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Nardostachys jatamansi (D. Don) DC., 'Spikenard' or 'Jatamansi', a highly valued, aromatic herb from alpine Himalayas has a long history of use as ethnomedicine and dietary supplements in Ayurveda, Unani and Chinese system of medicine since Vedic ages (1000-800 BC). In Ayurveda and traditional system of medicine, the species is used as stimulant, sedative, brain tonic or mind rejuvenator, antidiabetic, cardio tonic, and in the treatment of various neurological disorders such as insomnia, epilepsy, hysteria, anxiety and depression. It is considered as Sattvic herb in Ayurveda and is now commercially marketed either as single or poly-herbal formulations by many companies in national and international markets.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The species has become threatened in its natural habitats due to over exploitation and illegal trade of its rhizomes for drug preparation in herbal and pharmaceutical industries. Considering the increasing demand and tremendous medicinal importance of this threatened plant species, a detailed study was undertaken to evaluate its antioxidant potential, secondary metabolite profiling, cytotoxicity, anti-inflammatory potential and in vitro enzyme inhibitory activities on key enzymes linked to hyperglycemia, hypertension and cognitive disorders in different plant parts of wild and in vitro-raised plants with respect to different solvent systems for its sustainable utilization.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Anti-cholinesterase activity of leaves and rhizome of wild and cultured plant extracts was investigated against both acetylcholinesterase (AChE) and butyrylcholinesterase (BuChE) enzymes. In vitro anti-hyperglycemic (α-amylase and PTP1B), anti-hypertensive (angiotensin-converting enzyme), anti-tyrosinase and anti-inflammatory potential (5-lipoxygenase and hyaluronidase) of different plant parts of wild and in vitro-raised plants with respect to different solvent systems were also evaluated. In vitro cytotoxic effect of rootstock extracts of wild and in vitro-derived plants were against cancer (HCT-116, MCF-7 and OE33) and two normal (HEK and MEF) cell lines. Secondary metabolite profiling of rhizome segments of wild and in vitro-derived plants was carried out by quantitative gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS).

RESULTS

In vitro-raised plantlets showed comparative higher yield of various secondary metabolites with a significantly high antioxidant activity as compared to the wild plants. Methanolic rootstock extracts of both wild and in vitro-derived plants of N. jatamansi exhibited significant AChE (IC₅₀ 36.46 ± 2.1 and 31.18 ± 2.6 µg/ml, respectively) and BuChE (IC₅₀ 64.6 ± 3.5 and 60.12 ± 3.6 µg/ml, respectively) inhibitory potential as compared to standard inhibitor galanthamine (IC₅₀ 0.94 ± 0.03 and 4.45 ± 0.5 µg/ml). Methanolic rootstock extract of in vitro-derived plants showed significant α-amylase (IC₅₀ 90.69 ± 2.1 µg/ml), PTP1B (IC₅₀ 24.56 ± 0.8 µg/ml), angiotensin-converting enzyme (IC₅₀ 42.5 ± 3.6 µg/ml) and tyrosinase (IC₅₀ 168.12 ± 3.6 µg/ml) inhibitory potential as compared to standard acarbose (IC₅₀ 52.36 ± 3.1 µg/ml), ursolic acid (IC₅₀ 5.24 ± 0.8 µg/ml), captopril (IC₅₀ 32.36 ± 2.5 µg/ml) and kojic acid (IC₅₀ = 54.44 ± 2.3 µg/ml). Both the methanolic rootstock and leaf extracts of tissue culture-derived plants exhibited promising anti-5-LOX and anti-hyaluronidase activities against the known inhibitor of 5-LOX and hyaluronidase. Furthermore, methanolic rootstock extracts of both wild and in vitro-derived plants exhibited promising cytotoxic effects to HCT-116, MCF-7 and OE33 cell lines as compared to the normal HEK and MEF after 12 h of treatment. Secondary metabolite profiling of wild and in vitro-derived plants by quantitative GC-MS analysis revealed the presence of different classes of terpenoids and phenolic acids might be responsible for its effective biological activities.

CONCLUSION

In vitro-derived plants revealed a substantial anti-cholinesterases, anti-hyperglycemic anti-inflammatory, anti-hypertensive and anti-tyrosinase potential with higher yield of various bioactive metabolites and significantly higher antioxidant activity which substantially explain medicinal importance of N. jatamansi in traditional medicine, used for centuries in different Ayurvedic formulations. The present findings suggest that cultured plants could be a promising alternative for the production of bioactive metabolites with comparative biological activities to the wild plants.

Design Methodology for the Development of a New Cosmetic Active Based on Prunus domestica L. Leaves Extract

When it comes to the development of new active ingredients for cosmetics, biodiversity is a rich source for inspiration that must be tapped in a sustainable manner to cause no social nor ecological damage. Agri-food by-products are therefore more and more considered as available biomass that can be reused to extract their maximum value to produce new cosmetic ingredients before returning to the biosphere. The process to transform plant waste materials into powerful cosmetic actives is thoroughly described in the present paper via the example of the design of a liquid anti-aging ingredient based on a Prunus domestica L. extract obtained by maceration of plums’ dried leaves in propylene glycol. The subsequent development of an SPE (solid-phase extraction) methodology used to remove the propylene glycol to get access to the extracted molecules is thoroughly described as a means to follow the stability of the ingredient over time once formulated into a finished product.

Anti-elastase and anti-collagenase potential of Lactobacilli exopolysaccharides on human fibroblast

Polysaccharides could be used as biodegradable and biocompatible polymers for scaffolds and carriers matrix. Numerous algal, fungi and herbal polysaccharides can attenuate degradation of skin matrix by the inhibition of elastase, collagenase and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). In this study, we investigate anti-elastase and anti-collagenase potential of Lactobacilli exopolysaccharides (LEPS) on normal human fibroblast. Among 60 Lactobacilli isolated from herbal plants and dairy products, selected LEPS showed high anti-collagenase (up to 100%), anti-elastase (up to 87%) and antioxidant activity (up to 60%). Most of them had no cytotoxicity effect on fibroblast, and some of them promote cell proliferation (up to 10%). In scratch assay, all the investigated EPS_s stimulated wound healing process in fibroblast (up to 99%). MMP1, MMP2, MMP3, MMP9 and MMP10 were down-regulated significantly and TIMP1 and TIMP2 were up-regulated slightly in LEPS of B9-1 from L. casei with high anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activity; however, no meaningful alteration was observed in MMP_s expression level for LEPS of P35 from L. plantarum with low anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activity. By consideration of high anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, antioxidant activity and wound healing of LEPS, they could be considered as good candidate of skin anti-aging agents for tissue engineering and skin regeneration scaffolds.

Studies on secondary metabolite profiling, anti-inflammatory potential, in vitro photoprotective and skin-aging related enzyme inhibitory activities of Malaxis acuminata, a threatened orchid of nutraceutical importance

Malaxis acuminata D. Don., a small, terrestrial orchid, is endemic to tropical Himalayas at an altitude of 1200-2000m asl. The dried pseudobulbs are important ingredients of century old ayurvedic drug 'Ashtavarga' and a polyherbal immune-booster nutraceutical 'Chyavanprash', known to restore vigour, vitality and youthfulness. Considering tremendous medicinal importance of this threatened orchid species, a detailed study was undertaken for the first time to address its antioxidant potential, secondary metabolite contents and biological activities against skin-aging related enzymes (anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-tyrosinase and xanthine oxidase) and anti-inflammatory activity (5-lipoxygenase and hyaluronidase) in different plant parts of wild and in vitro-derived plants of M. acuminata. Methanolic leaf and stem extracts were further evaluated for in vitro photoprotective activity against UV-B and UV-A radiations. Furthermore, secondary metabolite profiling of various plant parts was carried out by Gas Chromatography Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS). A significantly higher antioxidant potential (DPPH, metal chelating and ABTS^•+) with a comparative higher yield of secondary metabolites was observed in in vitro-derived plantlets as compared to the wild plants. Among various solvent systems used, methanolic leaf and stem extracts showed promising inhibitory activity against major skin aging-related enzymes and anti-inflammatory potential. Methanolic leaf and stem extracts of both wild and in vitro-derived plants showed promising photoprotective activity against UV-B and UV-A radiations in vitro with comparatively higher sun protection factor (SPF). Furthermore, GC-MS analysis of methanolic extracts of leaves and stems of wild as well as in vitro-derived plantlets revealed presence of many bioactive metabolites such as, dietary fatty acids, α-hydroxy acids, phenolic acids, sterols, amino acids, sugars and glycosides which substantially explain the use of M. acuminata as one of the potential rejuvenator and anti-aging ingredient in many Ayurvedic formulations.