Anti-collagenase, anti-elastase and anti-oxidant activities of extracts from 21 plants

Phytochemical profile, enzyme inhibition, antioxidant, and antibacterial activity of Rosa pimpinellifolia L.: A comprehensive study to investigate the bioactivity of different parts (whole fruit, pulp, and seed part) of the fruit

The pharmaceutical and nutraceutical potentials of whole fruit, pulp and seeds of Rosa pimpinellifolia L. were evaluated. Forty-two phenolic compounds and two triterpenoids were identified in extracts by LC-MS/MS and GC-MS, respectively. The most prominent compounds were ellagic acid, catechin, epicatechin, tannic acid, quercetin, oleanolic acid, and ursolic acid. The highest enzyme inhibitory activities of the extracts (94.83%) were obtained against angiotensin-converting enzyme and were almost equal to those of the commercial standard (lisinopril, 98.99%). Whole fruit and pulp extracts (IC50:2.47 and 1.52 μg DW/mL) exhibited higher antioxidant capacity than the standards (α-tocopherol, IC50:9.89 μg DW/mL). The highest antibacterial activity was obtained against Bacillus cereus (MIC: 256 μg/mL) for the whole fruit extract. Correlation analyses were conducted to find the correlation between individual phenolics and enzyme inhibitory activities. The results showed the remarkable future of not only the edible part but also the seeds of black rose hips in phytochemical and functional aspects.

Bioassay-guided isolation of anti-inflammatory and antinociceptive metabolites among three Moroccan Juniperus leaves extract supported with in vitro enzyme inhibitory assays

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Herbs of the genus Juniperus (family Cupressaceae) have been commonly used in ancestral folk medicine known as "Al'Araar" for treatment of rheumatism, diabetes, inflammation, pain, and fever. Bioassay-guided isolation of bioactives from medicinal plants is recognized as a potential approach for the discovery of novel drug candidates. In particular, non-addictive painkillers are of special interest among herbal phytochemicals.

AIM OF THE STUDY

The current study aimed to assess the safety of J. thurifera, J. phoenicea, and J. oxycedrus aqueous extracts in oral treatments; validating the traditionally reported anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects. Further phytochemical investigations, especially for the most bioactive species, may lead to isolation of bioactive metabolites responsible for such bioactivities supported with in vitro enzyme inhibition assays.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Firstly, the acute toxicity study was investigated following the OECD Guidelines. Then, the antinociceptive, and anti-inflammatory bioactivities were evaluated based on chemical and mechanical trauma assays and investigated their underlying mechanisms. The most active J. thurifera n-butanol fraction was subjected to chromatographic studies for isolating the major anti-inflammatory metabolites. Moreover, several enzymatic inhibition assays (e.g., 5-lipoxygenase, protease, elastase, collagenase, and tyrosinase) were assessed for the crude extracts and isolated compounds.

RESULTS

The results showed that acute oral administration of the extracts (300-500 mg/kg, p. o.) inhibited both mechanically and chemically triggered inflammatory edema in mice (up to 70% in case of J. thurifera) with a dose-dependent antinociceptive (tail flick) and anti-inflammatory pain (formalin assay) activities. This effect was partially mediated by naloxone inhibition of the opioid receptor (2 mg/kg, i. p.). In addition, 3-methoxy gallic acid (1), quercetin (2), kaempferol (3), and ellagic acid (4) were successfully identified being involved most likely in J. thurifera extract bioactivities. Nevertheless, quercetin was found to be the most potent against 5-LOX, tyrosinase, and protease with IC50 of 1.52 ± 0.01, 192.90 ± 6.20, and 399 ± 9.05 μM, respectively.

CONCLUSION

J. thurifera extract with its major metabolites are prospective drug candidates for inflammatory pain supported with inhibition of inflammatory enzymes. Interestingly, antagonism of opioid and non-opioid receptors is potentially involved.

Comparison of microtensile bond strength of prepared teeth treated with proanthocyanidin, Camellia sinensis - Polyphenols, and metal crowns luted with resin-modified glass ionomer cement: An in vitro study

AIM

The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of proanthocyanidin and C. sinensis-polyphenols on microtensile bonding properties of prepared teeth with resin-modified glass ionomer cement (GIC).

SETTING AND DESIGN

This was an in vitro study.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Seventy-eight maxillary premolars were selected and mounted into auto-polymerizing acrylic resin blocks. The samples were prepared and metal crowns were fabricated. The samples were randomly divided into three groups. Samples under Group 1 were not treated with any of the extracts and followed conventional bonding protocol. Samples under Group 2 and Group 3 were treated with proanthocyanidin and C. sinensis-polyphenols, respectively. After dentin treatment, these samples were luted to metal crowns using resin-modified GIC. Universal testing machine was used to measure the load at which the crowns were debonded and microtensile bond strength in MPa was calculated.

STATISTICAL ANALYSIS

The results were statistically analyzed using one-way ANOVA and post hoc Tukey HSD.

RESULTS

Samples treated with C. sinensis polyphenols (Group 3) had maximum bond strength followed by Group 2, where the samples were treated with proanthocyanidin.

CONCLUSION

C. sinensis polyphenols due to their anti-proteolytic and antioxidant properties showed improved bond strength compared to proanthocyanidin, a cross-linking agent, followed by conventional bonding protocol.

Enhanced Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, Anti-Tyrosinase, and Anti-Inflammatory Properties of Vanda coerulea Griff. Ex Lindl. Protocorm through Elicitations with Chitosan

This study aimed to investigate the effects of elicitors on Vanda coerulea Griff. Ex Lindl. protocorms to enhance bioactive compound production and evaluate their biological activities relevant to cosmeceutical applications. The protocorms were developed from the callus treated with different elicitors, including 6-benzylaminopurine (BA), methyl jasmonate (MeJA), and chitosan. Both the adult plant and protocorms were extracted by maceration in 80% methanol and investigated for their chemical compositions using high-performance liquid chromatography. The extracts were evaluated for antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-tyrosinase activities. In addition, anti-inflammatory properties were assessed using a real-time polymerase chain reaction. The irritation potency was evaluated using the hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane test. The findings revealed that protocorms treated with BA and chitosan developed a greener color, while those treated with MeJA exhibited a distinct darker coloration. Elicitation with BA and chitosan resulted in protocorms with comparable or higher levels of syringic acid, rutin, and quercin compared with the adult plant, with rutin being the most prominent identified compound. Furthermore, rutin was reported as the compound responsible for all biological activities. The chitosan-treated protocorm extract exhibited potent inhibition against oxidation, collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase, and inflammatory cytokines, along with a nonirritating effect, making it a promising candidate for cosmeceutical applications.

A guide to the use of bioassays in exploration of natural resources

Bioassays are the main tool to decipher bioactivities from natural resources thus their selection and quality are critical for optimal bioprospecting. They are used both in the early stages of compounds isolation/purification/identification, and in later stages to evaluate their safety and efficacy. In this review, we provide a comprehensive overview of the most common bioassays used in the discovery and development of new bioactive compounds with a focus on marine bioresources. We present a comprehensive list of practical considerations for selecting appropriate bioassays and discuss in detail the bioassays typically used to explore antimicrobial, antibiofilm, cytotoxic, antiviral, antioxidant, and anti-ageing potential. The concept of quality control and bioassay validation are introduced, followed by safety considerations, which are critical to advancing bioactive compounds to a higher stage of development. We conclude by providing an application-oriented view focused on the development of pharmaceuticals, food supplements, and cosmetics, the industrial pipelines where currently known marine natural products hold most potential. We highlight the importance of gaining reliable bioassay results, as these serve as a starting point for application-based development and further testing, as well as for consideration by regulatory authorities.

Cosmetic application of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K

OBJECTIVE

The Amazon has a rich biodiversity where many different plant species can be found. This diversity is an important source of bioactive substances, mainly due to the different structural components of their phytometabolites. Research for natural products is a strategy for the development of new agents in therapeutic applications, especially cosmetic applications, that have better pharmacological potential. Within this perspective, the objective of the study was to investigate the cosmetic application (anti-aging potential) of the stem-bark extract of Bertholletia excelsa H.B.K - (SBEBE), popularly known as the Brazil nut tree, here called SBEBE, a noble plant species of the Amazon that is rich in selenium.

METHODS

Enzymatic, glycation, proliferation, cell-healing, collagen quantification, toxicity and genotoxicity assays were used.

RESULTS

Among the enzymes involved in the extracellular matrix of the skin, SBEBE was able to inhibit only elastase (62.67 ± 3.75) when compared to the standard sivelestat (89.04 ± 0.53), and the extract was also able to inhibit both the oxidative and the non-oxidative pathway. When cell toxicity in fibroblasts (MRC-5) and keratinocytes (HACAT) was evaluated, SBEBE did not present toxicity in 24 h of incubation. After this period, the extract showed average cytotoxicity in 48 and 72 h, but not enough to reach the concentration of 50% of MRC-5 fibroblasts. In the trypan blue assay, the extract promoted fibroblast proliferation in 24, 48 and 72 h of incubation, which was evaluated through exponential cell growth, with emphasis mainly on the lowest concentration with results higher than the standard. When the cell healing capacity was evaluated, in 48 h of exposure to fibroblast, SBEBE was able to induce a cell carpet (cell film) in the cell monolayer scratch assay.

CONCLUSIONS

SBEBE stimulated collagen production at all concentrations tested. In the alkaline comet assay, at the lowest concentration, the extract did not induce DNA damage when compared to the reference drug doxorubicin. This study proved that SBEBE extract can be considered an ally in the treatment of skin anti-ageing as a possible biotechnological, phytocosmetic product.

Anti-collagenase, Anti-elastase, Anti-urease, and Anti-cancer Potentials of Isokaempferide as Natural Compound: In vitro and in silico Study

One of the main goals of medicinal chemistry in recent years has been the development of new enzyme inhibitors and anti-cancer medicines. The isokaempferide' ability to inhibit the enzymes urease, elastase, and collagenase were also studied. The results showed that isokaempferide was the most effective compound against the assigned enzymes, with IC 50 values of 23.05 µM for elastase, 12.83 µM for urease, and 33.62 µM for collagenase respectively. It should be emphasized that natural compound was more effective at inhibiting some enzymes. Additionally, the compound was tested for their anti-cancer properties using colon, lung, breast cancer cell lines. The chemical activities of isokaempferide against urease, collagenase, and elastase were investigated utilizing the molecular docking study. The anti-cancer activities of the compound were evaluated against lung cancer cells such as SPC-A-1, SK-LU-1, 95D, breast cancer cells like MCF7, Hs 578Bst, Hs 319.T, and UACC-3133 cell lines, and colon cancer cell lines like CL40, SW1417, LS1034, and SW480. The chemical activities of isokaempferide against some of the expressed surface receptor proteins (EGFR, estrogen receptor, CD47, progesterone receptor, folate receptor, CD44, HER2, CD155, CXCR4, CD97, and endothelin receptor) in the mentioned cell lines were assessed using the molecular docking calculations. The results showed the probable interactions and their characteristics at an atomic level. The docking scores revealed that isokaempferide has a strong binding affinity to the enzymes and proteins. In addition, the compound formed powerful contact with the enzymes and receptors. Thus, isokaempferide could be potential inhibitor for enzymes and cancer cells.

On the effect of pepsin incubation on type I collagen from horse tendon: Fine tuning of its physico-chemical and rheological properties

Type I collagen is commonly recognized as the gold standard biomaterial for the manufacturing of medical devices for health-care related applications. In recent years, with the final aim of developing scaffolds with optimal bioactivity, even more studies focused on the influence of processing parameters on collagen properties, since processing can strongly affect the architecture of collagen at various length scales and, consequently, scaffolds macroscopic performances. The ability to finely tune scaffold properties in order to closely mimic the tissues' hierarchical features, preserving collagen's natural conformation, is actually of great interest. In this work, the effect of the pepsin-based extraction step on the material final properties was investigated. Thus, the physico-chemical properties of fibrillar type I collagens upon being extracted under various conditions were analyzed in depth. Correlations of collagen structure at the supramolecular scale with its microstructural properties were done, confirming the possibility of tuning rheological, viscoelastic and degradation properties of fibrillar type I collagen.

New Chalcone Derivatives Containing 2,4-Dichlorobenzenesulfonamide Moiety with Anticancer and Antioxidant Properties

Chalcones and their derivatives, both natural and synthetic, exhibit diverse biological activities. In this study, we focused on designing and synthesizing (E)-2,4-dichloro-N-(4-cinnamoylphenyl)-5-methylbenzenesulfonamides 4-8 with the following two pharmacophore groups: 2,4-dichlorobenzenesulfonamide and chalcone. The obtained compounds displayed notable anticancer effects on various human cancer cells, such as cervical HeLa, acute promyelocytic leukemia HL-60, and gastric adenocarcinoma AGS, when assessed with the MTT test. The activity of all compounds against cancer cells was significant, and the obtained IC50 values were in the range of 0.89-9.63 µg/mL. Among all the tested compounds, derivative 5 showed the highest activity on the AGS cell line. Therefore, it was tested for cell cycle inhibition, induction of mitochondrial membrane depolarization, and activation of caspase-8 and -9. These results showed that this compound strongly arrested the cell cycle in the subG0 phase, depolarized the mitochondrial membrane, and activated caspase-8 and -9. Similar to the anticancer effects, all the obtained compounds 4-8 were also assessed for their antioxidant activity. The highest antiradical effect was demonstrated for derivative 5, which was able to inhibit DPPH and ABTS radicals. All examined compounds showed dose-dependent activity against neutrophil elastase. Notably, derivatives 7 and 8 demonstrated inhibitory properties similar to oleanolic acid, with IC50 values of 25.61 ± 0.58 and 25.73 ± 0.39 µg/mL, respectively. To determine the antibacterial activity of derivatives 4-8, the minimum bacteriostatic concentration (MIC) values were estimated (>500 µg/mL for all the tested bacterial strains). The findings demonstrate the substantial potential of sulfonamide-based chalcone 5 as a promising drug in anticancer therapy.

Protective potential of frankincense essential oil and its loaded solid lipid nanoparticles against UVB-induced photodamage in rats via MAPK and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways; A promising anti-aging therapy

Frankincense oil has gained increased popularity in skin care, yet its anti-aging effect remains unclear. The current study aimed to investigate the anti-photoaging effect of frankincense (Boswellia papyrifera (Del.) Hochst., Family Burseraceae) essential oil in an in vivo model. The oil was initially extracted by two methods: hydro-distillation (HD) and microwave-assisted hydro-distillation (MAHD). GC/MS analysis revealed the dominance of n-octyl acetate, along with other marker compounds of B. papyrifera including octanol and diterpene components (verticilla 4(20) 7, 11-triene and incensole acetate). Thereafter, preliminary investigation of the anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities of the extracted oils revealed the superior anti-aging effect of HD-extracted oil (FO), comparable to epigallocatechin gallate. FO was subsequently formulated into solid lipid nanoparticles (FO-SLNs) via high shear homogenization to improve its solubility and skin penetration characteristics prior to in vivo testing. The optimimal formulation prepared with 0.5% FO, and 4% Tween® 80, demonstrated nanosized spherical particles with high entrapment efficiency percentage and sustained release for 8 hours. The anti-photoaging effect of FO and FO-SLNs was then evaluated in UVB-irradiated hairless rats, compared to Vitamin A palmitate as a positive standard. FO and FO-SLNs restored the antioxidant capacity (SOD and CAT) and prohibited inflammatory markers (IL6, NFκB p65) in UVB-irradiated rats via downregulation of MAPK (pERK, pJNK, and pp38) and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways, alongside upregulating TGF-β expression. Subsequently, our treatments induced Procollagen I synthesis and downregulation of MMPs (MMP1, MMP9), where FO-SLNs exhibited superior anti-photoaging effect, compared to FO and Vitamin A, highlighting the use of SLNs as a promising nanocarrier for FO. In particular, FO-SLNs revealed normal epidermal and dermal histological structures, protected against UVβ-induced epidermal thickness and dermal collagen degradation. Our results indicated the potential use of FO-SLNs as a promising topical anti-aging therapy.

Anti-Aging Potential of a Novel Ingredient Derived from Sugarcane Straw Extract (SSE)

Natural and sustainable anti-aging ingredients have gained attention from the cosmetic industry. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of a sugarcane straw extract-based (SSE) cosmetic ingredient. First, cytotoxicity tests were assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblast cell lines, and sensitization was carried out through the direct peptide reactivity assay. Subsequently, various anti-aging properties were investigated, including inhibiting skin aging-related enzymes, promoting elastin and hyaluronic acid synthesis, and anti-pollution activity. Finally, a permeability assay using a synthetic membrane resembling skin was conducted. The results demonstrated that the SSE ingredient effectively inhibited elastase (55%), collagenase (25%), and tyrosinase (47%) while promoting hyaluronic acid production at non-cytotoxic and low-sensitizer concentrations. Moreover, it reduced the inflammatory response provoked by urban pollution, as evidenced by decreased levels of IL1-α and IL-6. However, it was observed that the phenolic compounds predominantly reached the skin's surface, indicating a limited ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Therefore, it can be concluded that the SSE ingredient holds anti-aging properties, albeit with limited penetration into deeper skin layers. Further research and formulation advancements are needed to optimize the ingredient's ability to reach and exert its effects in deeper skin layers.

Promising Anti-Wrinkle Applications of Aromatic Extracts of Hedychium coronarium J. Koenig via Antioxidation and Collagenase Inhibition

This study aimed to extract aromatic compounds from the rhizomes, leaf sheaths, and leaves of Hedychium coronarium and investigate their chemical compositions, cosmetic/cosmeceutical activities, and irritation potency. The chemical compositions were investigated via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The antioxidant activities were evaluated via spectrophotometry. The anti-skin wrinkle properties were investigated via collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition. The irritation potency was observed via a hen's egg-chorioallantoic membrane test. Eucalyptol was detected as a major component in the rhizomes and leaf sheaths, while β-caryophyllene was predominant in the leaves. The absolutes from the rhizomes were the strongest antioxidants, with ABTS scavenging properties similar to L-ascorbic acid. Interestingly, the equivalent concentration (EC1) of the absolute from the rhizome was 0.82 ± 0.01 µg FeSO4/g extract, which was significantly more potent than L-ascorbic acid (0.43 ± 0.03 µg FeSO4/g extract). The rhizome-derived absolute was the most effective against collagenase, while the concretes from the rhizomes and leaf sheaths showed promising anti-hyaluronidase activity with inhibitions of 90.5 ± 1.6% and 87.4 ± 5.1%, respectively. The irritability of the aromatic extracts was not different from that of the vehicle control, proving their safety. Therefore, the Hedychium coronarium rhizome-derived absolute was an attractive and potent antioxidant with anti-collagenase activities, indicating its potential for use in anti-aging formulations.

Comparison of Biological Activities and Protective Effects on PAH-Induced Oxidative Damage of Different Coffee Cherry Pulp Extracts

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are the main toxic components of ambient air particulate matter (PM), causing oxidative damage to the skin and ultimately resulting in skin aging. This study was conducted to determine the anti-oxidant, anti-aging properties and protective effects of the extracts of coffee cherry pulp (Coffea arabica L.), which is a by-product of the coffee industry, against the oxidative damage induced by PAH exposure in human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT). Three different techniques were used to extract the coffee cherry pulp: maceration, Soxhlet and ultrasonication to obtain CCM, CCS and CCU extract, respectively, which were then compared to investigate the total phenolic content (TPC) and total flavonoid content (TFC). The chemical compositions were identified and quantified using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The results demonstrated that Soxhlet could extract the highest content of chlorogenic acid, caffeine and theophylline. CCS showed the significantly highest TPC (324.6 ± 1.2 mg GAE/g extract), TFC (296.8 ± 1.2 mg QE/g extract), anti-radical activity against DPPH free radicals (98.2 ± 0.8 µM Trolox/g extract) and lipid peroxidation inhibition (136.6 ± 6.2 µM Trolox/g extract). CCS also showed the strongest anti-aging effects based on collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and tyrosinase inhibitory enzymes. In addition, CCS can protect human keratinocyte cells from PAH toxicity by increasing the cellular anti-oxidant capacity. This study suggests that CCS has the potential to be used as a cosmetic material that helps alleviate skin damage caused by air pollution.

Exploring Major Flavonoid Phytochemicals from Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. as Potential Skin Anti-Aging Agents: In Silico and In Vitro Evaluations

Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn., an aquatic medicinal plant (Nelumbonaceae family), has a history of use in traditional medicine across various regions. Our previous study demonstrated the skin anti-aging potential of its stamen ethanolic extract by effectively inhibiting collagenase and tyrosinase enzymes. While the major constituents of this extract are well documented, there is a lack of research on the individual compounds' abilities to inhibit skin aging enzymes. Therefore, this study aimed to evaluate the anti-aging potential of the primary flavonoids found in N. nucifera using both in silico and in vitro approaches. Our initial step involved molecular docking to identify compounds with the potential to inhibit collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase. Among the seven flavonoids studied, kaempferol-3-O-robinobioside (Kae-3-Rob) emerged as the most promising candidate, exhibiting the highest docking scores for three skin aging-related enzymes. Subsequent enzyme-based inhibition assays confirmed that Kae-3-Rob displayed robust inhibitory activity against collagenase (58.24 ± 8.27%), elastase (26.29 ± 7.16%), and tyrosinase (69.84 ± 6.07%). Furthermore, we conducted extensive 200-ns molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, revealing the stability of the complexes formed between Kae-3-Rob and each enzyme along the MD simulation time. MM/PBSA-based binding free energy calculations indicated the considerably stronger binding affinity of Kae-3-Rob for collagenase and tyrosinase compared to elastase, which was related to the greater percentage of hydrogen bond occupations. These computational findings were consistent with the relatively high inhibitory activity of Kae-3-Rob against collagenase and tyrosinase observed in our in vitro experiment. In conclusion, the results obtained from this comprehensive study suggest that Kae-3-Rob, a key flavonoid from N. nucifera, holds significant potential as a source of bioactive compounds for anti-aging cosmeceutical and other phytopharmaceutical application.

Evaluation of the Biological Activity of Hydrogel with Cornus mas L. Extract and Its Potential Use in Dermatology and Cosmetology

Due to the growing popularity of herbal extract-loaded hydrogels, this study assessed the biological activity of extracts and hydrogels containing three types (water (WE), water-ethanol (EE) and water-glycerin (GE)) of Cornus mas L. (dogwood) extracts. The content of biologically active compounds in the extracts was assessed using the UPLC-DAD-MS technique. Antioxidant properties were assessed by using DPPH and ABTS radicals and measuring the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species. Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests were used to measure the cytotoxicity of the tested samples on skin cells-fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Cell migration and the anti-aging activity of the tested extracts and hydrogels were assessed. Transepidermal water loss and skin hydration after applying the hydrogels to the skin were also determined. A chromatographic analysis revealed that the extracts contained polyphenols, including gallic, caftaric, protocatechuic, chlorogenic, ellagic and p-coumaroylquinic acids, as well as iridoids, with loganic acid as the predominant component. Additionally, they contained cyanidin 3-O-galactoside, pelargonidin 3-O-glucoside and quinic acid. The obtained results show that the tested extracts and hydrogels had strong antioxidant properties and had a positive effect on the viability of skin cells in vitro. Additionally, it was shown that they stimulated the migration of these cells and had the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase. Moreover, the tested hydrogels increased skin hydration and prevented transepidermal water loss. The obtained results indicate that the developed hydrogels may be effective delivery systems for phytochemicals contained in dogwood extracts.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Liposomes as Carriers of GHK-Cu Tripeptide for Cosmetic Application

Liposomes are self-assembled spherical systems composed of amphiphilic phospholipids. They can be used as carriers of both hydrophobic and hydrophilic substances, such as the anti-aging and wound-healing copper-binding peptide, GHK-Cu (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine). Anionic (AL) and cationic (CL) hydrogenated lecithin-based liposomes were obtained as GHK-Cu skin delivery systems using the thin-film hydration method combined with freeze-thaw cycles and the extrusion process. The influence of total lipid content, lipid composition and GHK-Cu concentration on the physicochemical properties of liposomes was studied. The lipid bilayer fluidity and the peptide encapsulation efficiency (EE) were also determined. Moreover, in vitro assays of tyrosinase and elastase inhibition were performed. Stable GHK-Cu-loaded liposome systems of small sizes (approx. 100 nm) were obtained. The bilayer fluidity was higher in the case of cationic liposomes. As the best carriers, 25 mg/cm3 CL and AL hydrated with 0.5 mg/cm3 GHK-Cu were selected with EE of 31.7 ± 0.9% and 20.0 ± 2.8%, respectively. The obtained results confirmed that the liposomes can be used as carriers for biomimetic peptides such as copper-binding peptide and that the GHK-Cu did not significantly affect the tyrosinase activity but led to 48.90 ± 2.50% elastase inhibition, thus reducing the rate of elastin degeneration and supporting the structural integrity of the skin.

Tart Cherry (Prunus cerasus L.) Pit Extracts Protect Human Skin Cells against Oxidative Stress: Unlocking Sustainable Uses for Food Industry Byproducts

Industrial processing of tart cherries (Prunus cerasus L.) produces bioproducts like cherry pits (CP), which contribute to adverse environmental effects. To identify sustainable strategies to minimize the environmental impact of cherry processing, we investigated their potential value as antioxidants for prospective utilization within cosmeceutical applications. Untargeted metabolomic analyses of water and water: ethanol CP extracts using an eco-friendly technique revealed significant enrichment in coumaroyl derivatives and flavonoids with congruent metabolite representation regardless of the extraction solvent. The antioxidant activity of tart CP extracts was evaluated on human skin cells exposed to H2O2 or LPS, modeling environmentally induced oxidants. Notably, both CP extracts provide antioxidant activity by reducing H2O2 or LPS-induced ROS in human skin keratinocytes without affecting cell viability. The CP extracts increased the expression of CAT and SOD1 genes encoding antioxidant regulatory enzymes while decreasing the expression of NOS2, a pro-oxidant regulator. These findings reveal the antioxidant properties of tart CP, offering new opportunities to produce natural-based skin care products and adding economic value while providing sustainable options to reduce the environmental impact of food byproducts.

Influence of Benincasa hispida Peel Extracts on Antioxidant and Anti-Aging Activities, including Molecular Docking Simulation

Benincasa hispida peel, a type of postconsumer waste, is considered a source of beneficial phytochemicals. Therefore, it was subjected to investigation for biological activities in this study. B. hispida peel was extracted using 95% v/v, 50% v/v ethanol and water. The obtained extracts were B95, B50 and BW. B95 had a high flavonoid content (212.88 ± 4.73 mg QE/g extract) and phenolic content (131.52 ± 0.38 mg GAE/g extract) and possessed high antioxidant activities as confirmed by DPPH, ABTS and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Moreover, B95 showed inhibitory effects against collagenase and hyaluronidase with values of 41.68 ± 0.92% and 29.17 ± 0.66%, which related to anti-aging activities. Via the HPLC analysis, one of the potential compounds found in B95 was rutin. Molecular docking has provided an understanding of the molecular mechanisms underlying the interaction of extracts with collagenase and hyaluronidase. All extracts were not toxic to fibroblast cells and did not irritate the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane, which indicated its safe use. In conclusion, B. hispida peel extracts are promising potential candidates for further use as antioxidant and anti-aging agents in the food and cosmetic industries.

Phytochemical study of Boswellia dalzielii oleo-gum resin and evaluation of its biological properties

Boswellia dalzielii is a resin-producing tree endemic to West and Central Africa, used by local populations for various medicinal purposes. In this study, B. dalzielii gum resin was analyzed by GC-MS and UHPLC-MS to identify and quantify volatile and non-volatile compounds. Its main volatile constituents were α-pinene (54.9%), followed by α-thujene (4.4%) and α-phellandren-8-ol (4.0%). Pentacyclic triterpenoids such as β-boswellic acids and their derivatives were quantified by UHPLC-MS and their content was shown to reach around 22% of the gum resin. Since some of the volatile and non-volatile compounds identified in this work are known to possess biological effects, the bioactivities of B. dalzielii ethanolic extract, essential oil, as well as fractions of the oil and extract were evaluated. Some of these samples exhibited interesting anti-inflammatory properties, and their antioxidant, anti-ageing and skin-bleaching activities were also tested.

Effects of Water-Ethanol Extracts from Four Sphagnum Species on Gene Expression of Selected Enzymes in Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Their Antioxidant Properties

Mosses (Bryophyta), particularly species of the genus Sphagnum, which have been used for centuries for the treatment of skin diseases and damage, are still not explored enough in terms of their use in cosmetics. The purpose of this study was to determine the antioxidant properties of water-ethanol extracts from four selected species of the genus Sphagnum (S. girgenshonii Russow, S. magellanicum Brid., S. palustre L., and S. squarrosum Crome) and their impact on the expression of genes encoding key enzymes for the functioning of the skin. In this study, the effects of Sphagnum extracts on the expression of genes encoding tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and hyaluronic acid synthase in human dermal fibroblasts were determined for the first time in vitro. The extracts inhibited tyrosinase gene expression and showed antioxidant activity. The experiment showed an increase in the expression of some genes encoding collagenase (MMP1) or hyaluronidase (HYAL2, HYAL3 and HYAL4) and a decrease in the hyaluronan synthase (HAS1, HAS2 and HAS3) genes expression by the tested extracts. The obtained results suggest that using extracts from the tested Sphagnum species in anti-aging cosmetics does not seem beneficial. Further studies are needed to clarify their impact on the skin.

Antioxidant Potential of Spray- and Freeze-Dried Extract from Oregano Processing Wastes, Using an Optimized Ultrasound-Assisted Method

Origanum vulgare is recognized worldwide for its numerous applications, in the food industry and beyond. However, the extraction of its essential oils generates a significant amount of waste. The aim of this research was to achieve the valorization of solid waste from oregano hydro-distillation, by (i) optimizing the ultrasound extraction of antioxidants, (ii) evaluating the effect of spray and freeze drying on the extract's physicochemical properties, and (iii) characterizing the obtained powder by its antioxidant capacity. A central composite design of experiments was used to optimize the sample/solvent ratio, ethanol/water ratio, and extraction time. The extract was analyzed for its antioxidant potential by determining the percentage of DPPH inhibition, FRAP, and total phenolic content (TPC). The GAB model best fit the data for the moisture sorption isotherm of the resulting powder. The antioxidant activity of the powders was tested in a ground-beef food system. The TPC was maximized at times longer than 58 min, a sample/solvent ratio between 0.058 and 0.078, and a ratio of ethanol/water around 1. Neither drying method significantly affected the antioxidant properties of the extract, even though the resulting powders from each showed a different morphology (determined using SEM). Encapsulation with maltodextrin protected the spray-dried extract during a 6-month storage period. Powders from both drying methods equally retarded lipid oxidation, and were comparable to the synthetic antioxidant BHT. It is concluded that oregano processing waste is a potent source of antioxidants, and that its dried extract, via an ultrasound-assisted process, can potentially be used as a natural alternative to synthetic antioxidants.

Choline chloride-based deep eutectic solvent as an inhibitor of metalloproteases (collagenase and elastase) in cosmetic formulation

Green chemistry and engineering are potential alternatives for achieving higher sustainability and lower generation of hazardous compounds in chemical product design, production, and use. Deep Eutectic Solvents (DES) are characterized as green solvents and have become increasingly attractive due to their characteristic design solvents. In this work, two DES (choline chloride (ChCl)/glycerol and ChCl/Urea), aqueous solutions of the DES-forming components, and green tea extracts obtained with DES were used as anti-ageing active in cosmetic products using in vitro tests to inhibit extracellular matrix metalloproteases (such as collagenase and elastase). Finally, the stability of the formulations with DES as a cosmetic active was also evaluated. The results showed that DES based on ChCl/Urea and ChCl/glycerol exhibited remarkable inhibition values of collagenase (91.1 and 92.7%, respectively) and elastase (49.8 and 45.7%, respectively). However, pure urea displayed better inhibition values (66%) for elastase, possibly due to its direct contribution to intramolecular hydrogen bonds. ChCl/glycerol showed remarkable stability in the average cube diameter values, which may indicate no change in the conformation of the micellar structure of the cosmetic formulation. Moreover, the formulation containing this DES remained stable at room temperature. Given the remarkable results, DES can be applied in cosmetic products for anti-ageing purposes.

Photoprotection and Antiaging Activity of Extracts from Honeybush (Cyclopia sp.)-In Vitro Wound Healing and Inhibition of the Skin Extracellular Matrix Enzymes: Tyrosinase, Collagenase, Elastase and Hyaluronidase

Cyclopia sp. (honeybush) is an African shrub known as a rich source of polyphenols. The biological effects of fermented honeybush extracts were investigated. The influence of honeybush extracts on extracellular matrix (ECM) enzymes responsible for the skin malfunction and aging process-collagenase, elastase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase-was analysed. The research also included assessment of the in vitro photoprotection efficiency of honeybush extracts and their contribution to the wound healing process. Antioxidant properties of the prepared extracts were evaluated, and quantification of the main compounds in the extracts was achieved. The research showed that the analysed extracts had a significant ability to inhibit collagenase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase and a weak influence on elastase activity. Tyrosinase was inhibited effectively by honeybush acetone (IC₅₀ 26.18 ± 1.45 µg/mL), ethanol (IC₅₀ 45.99 ± 0.76 µg/mL) and water (IC₅₀ 67.42 ± 1.75 µg/mL) extracts. Significant hyaluronidase inhibition was observed for ethanol, acetone and water extracts (IC₅₀ were 10.99 ± 1.56, 13.21 ± 0.39 and 14.62 ± 0.21µg/mL, respectively). Collagenase activity was inhibited effectively by honeybush acetone extract (IC₅₀ 42.5 ± 1.05 μg/mL). The wound healing properties of the honeybush extracts, estimated in vitro in human keratinocytes (HaCaTs), were indicated for water and ethanol extracts. In vitro sun protection factor (SPF in vitro) showed medium photoprotection potential for all the honeybush extracts. The quantity of polyphenolic compounds was estimated with the use of high-performance liquid chromatography equipped with diode-array detection (HPLC-DAD), indicating the highest mangiferin contents in ethanol, acetone and n-butanol extracts, while in the water extract hesperidin was the dominant compound. The antioxidant properties of the honeybush extracts were estimated with FRAP (2,4,6-Tris(2-pyridyl)-s-triazine) and DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) tests, indicating their strong antioxidant activity, similar to ascorbic acid for the acetone extract in both tests. The wound healing abilities, estimation of SPF in vitro and the direct influence on selected enzymes (elastase, tyrosinase, collagenase and hyaluronidase) of the tested honeybush extracts were analysed for the first time, indicating a high potential of these well-known herbal tea for antiaging, anti-inflammation, regeneration and protection of the skin.

Exploring the Potential of Supercritical Fluid Extraction of Matricaria chamomilla White Ray Florets as a Source of Bioactive (Cosmetic) Ingredients

Aromatic and medicinal plants are a great source of useful bioactive compounds for use in cosmetics, drugs, and dietary supplements. This study investigated the potential of using supercritical fluid extracts obtained from Matricaria chamomilla white ray florets, a kind of industrial herbal byproduct, as a source of bioactive cosmetic ingredients. Response surface methodology to optimize the supercritical fluid extraction process by analyzing the impact of pressure and temperature on yield and the main bioactive compound groups were used. High-throughput 96-well plate spectrophotometric methods were used to analyze the extracts for total phenols, flavonoids, tannins, and sugars, as well as their antioxidant capacity. Gas chromatography and liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry was used to determine the phytochemical composition of the extracts. The extracts were also analyzed for antimicrobial activity, cytotoxicity, phototoxicity, and melanin content. Statistical analysis was performed to establish correlations between the extracts and develop models to predict the targeted phytochemical recovery and chemical and biological activities. The results show that the extracts contained a diverse range of phytochemical classes and had cytotoxic, proliferation-reducing, and antimicrobial activities, making them potentially useful in cosmetic formulations. This study provides valuable insights for further research on the uses and mechanisms of action of these extracts.

Biological Activity and Component Analyses of Chamaecyparis obtusa Leaf Extract: Evaluation of Antiwrinkle and Cell Protection Effects in UVA-Irradiated Cells

Background and Objectives: Chamaecyparis obtusa (C. obtuse) extract has been used as a folk medicinal remedy in East Asian countries to alleviate inflammation and prevent allergies. Active oxygen causes skin aging and leads to skin cell and tissue damage. Extensive research has been conducted to control active oxygen generation to prevent skin aging. We evaluated the antioxidant activity and antiwrinkle effect of C. obtusa extract to determine its potential as a cosmetic material. Materials and Methods: The antioxidant activity of a 70% ethanol extract of C. obtusa (COE 70) and a water extract of C. obtusa (COW) was determined using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazy (DPPH) scavenging, 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS⁺) scavenging, superoxide dismutase-like activity, xanthine oxidase inhibition, and ferric-reducing antioxidant power assays. The effective concentration of the extracts was determined using the methyl thiazolyl tetrazolium assay to evaluate their toxicity. The effects of COE 70 on the production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and procollagen, and expression of activated cytokines, interleukin 6 (IL-6) and tumor necrosis factor α (TNF-α), in UVA-irradiated fibroblasts were determined using quantitative real-time PCR. Additionally, quercitrin, amentoflavone, hinokiflavone, and myricetin concentrations in COE 70 were determined using high-pressure high-performance liquid chromatography. Results: COE 70 had higher polyphenol and flavonoid concentrations than COW and exhibited an excellent antioxidant effect. COE 70 suppressed UVA-induced fibroblast death by 21.3% at 25 µg/mL. It also increased MMP-1, MMP-3, TNF-α, and IL-6 mRNA levels at 5-25 µg/mL compared with those in control UVA-irradiated fibroblasts. Moreover, mRNA levels of collagen type I and superoxide dismutase significantly increased, indicating the antiwrinkle and anti-inflammatory effects of the extract. Among the COE 70 components, quercitrin concentration was the highest; hence, quercitrin could be an active ingredient. Conclusions: COE 70 could be used as a natural antioxidant and antiwrinkle agent.

Characterization and anti-aging effects of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Miller extracts in a D-galactose-induced skin aging model

Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Miller (OFI), belonging to the family Cactaceae, is widely cultivated not only for its delicious fruits but also for its health-promoting effects, which enhance the role of OFI as a potential functional food. In this study, the in vitro collagenase and elastase enzyme inhibitory effects of extracts from different parts of OFI were evaluated. The most promising extracts were formulated as creams at two concentrations (3 and 5%) to investigate their effects on a D-galactose (D-gal)-induced skin-aging mouse model. The ethanolic extracts of the peel and cladodes exhibited the highest enzyme inhibitory effects. Cream made from the extract of OFI peel (OP) (5%) and cream from OFI cladodes extract (OC) (5%) significantly decreased the macroscopic aging of skin scores. Only a higher concentration (5%) of OC showed the normalization of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and malondialdehyde (MDA) skin levels and achieved significant improvements as compared to the vitamin E group. Both OC and OP (5%) showed complete restoration of the normal skin structure and nearly normal collagen fibres upon histopathological examination. The Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography High Resolution Mass Spectrometry (UHPLC-ESI-TOF-MS) metabolite profiles revealed the presence of organic acids, phenolic acids, flavonoids, betalains, and fatty acids. Flavonoids were the predominant phytochemical class (23 and 22 compounds), followed by phenolic acids (14 and 17 compounds) in the ethanolic extracts from the peel and cladodes, respectively. The anti-skin-aging effects could be attributed to the synergism of different phytochemicals in both extracts. From these findings, the OFI peel and cladodes as agro-waste products are good candidates for anti-skin-aging phytocosmetics.

Biochemical Pilot Study on Effects of Pomegranate Seed Oil Extract and Cosmetic Cream on Neurologically Mediated Skin Inflammation in Animals and Humans: A Comparative Observational Study

The presence of phenobarbital and formaldehyde in drugs, food, and beverages can lead to various health issues, including inflammation, oncogenesis, and neurological distress. Psychological stress leads to mood fluctuations and the onset of skin inflammation. Skin inflammation has a range of causes, including chemicals, heavy metals, infection, immune-related disorders, genetics, and stress. The various treatments for skin inflammation include medical and cosmetic creams, diet changes, and herbal therapy. In this study, we investigated the effects of Avocom-M and pomegranate seed oil extract (PSOE) against phenobarbital- and formaldehyde-induced skin biochemical changes in rats. We analyzed the constituents of PSOE using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry and inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry. We also observed biochemical changes in the skin of human volunteers with and without TROSYD and PSOE as a skin cream. We compared the biochemical changes in human volunteers' skin before treatment and 21 days after the treatment stopped. The outcomes showed an improvement in the rats' biochemical status, due to PSOE and Avocom-M treatment. The human volunteers treated with TROSYD and PSOE showed substantial amelioration of skin inflammation. PSOE, Avocom-M, and TROSYD produced beneficial effects by reducing the levels of cyclooxygenase-2, lipid peroxidation, tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, elastase, collagenase, and nitric oxide in the animals tested on and in human volunteers.

Phenolic Profile and Comparison of the Antioxidant, Anti-Ageing, Anti-Inflammatory, and Protective Activities of Borago officinalis Extracts on Skin Cells

In this study, methanol and water-methanol extracts of borage (Borago officinalis) herb dried using various methods were analysed for their phenolic profile and biological activity. Twelve compounds, including flavonoids (astragalin, kaempferol 4-glucoside, rutoside, and vitexin) and phenolic acids (caffeic, chlorogenic, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic, ferulic, p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, rosmarinic, and syringic), were determined qualitatively and quantitatively in B. officinalis extracts by the HPLC-DAD method. The highest total flavonoid content was confirmed for the methanol extract from the hot-air-dried herb, while the methanol extract from the air-dried herb was most abundant in phenolic acids. The results of in vitro tests on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (BJ) showed that the extracts were able to reduce the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species in skin cells. Tests performed to assess inhibition of protein denaturation, lipoxygenase activity, and proteinase activity demonstrated that borage extracts have anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, the methanol extract of the herb dried in a convection oven showed the strongest inhibition of both collagenase and elastase activity, which is indicative of anti-ageing properties. The results show that the borage extracts are a source of valuable bioactive compounds with beneficial properties in the context of skin cell protection.

Multispectroscopic, virtual and in vivo insights into the photoaging defense mediated by the natural food colorant bixin

An upsurge in early onset of photoaging due to repeated skin exposure to environmental stressors such as UV radiation is a challenge for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical divisions. Current reports indicate severe side effects because of chemical or synthetic inhibitors of matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) in anti-skin aging cosmeceuticals. We evaluated the adequacy of bixin, a well-known FDA certified food additive, as a scavenger of free radicals and its inhibitory mechanism of action on MMP1, collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase. The anti-skin aging potential of bixin was evaluated by several biotechnological tools in silico, in vitro and in vivo. Molecular docking and simulation dynamics studies gave a virtual insight into the robust binding interaction between bixin and skin aging-related enzymes. Absorbance and fluorescence studies, enzyme inhibition assays, enzyme kinetics and in vitro bioassays of human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells highlighted bixin's role as a potent antioxidant and inhibitor of skin aging-related enzymes. Furthermore, in vivo protocols were carried out to study the impact of bixin administration on UVA induced photoaging in C57BL/6 mice skin. Here, we uncover the UVA shielding effect of bixin and its efficacy as a novel anti-photoaging agent. Furthermore, the findings of this study provide a strong foundation to explore the pharmaceutical applications of bixin in several other biochemical pathways linked to MMP1, collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase.

The anti-aging, anti-tuberculosis and antioxidant potential benefits of Saudi Arabia Olea-Europaea Leaves extracts

The olive leaf extract and olive leaf indicated a high potential for application in food additives and foodstuffs. It could be these bio-products useful and important in condition therapy related with oxidative stress and can use it to develop functional foods and to improve the food's shelf life. The olive leaf chemical composition of Oleaeuropaea L. grown from eljouf in Saudi Arabia, using solvents of increasing polarity cyclohexane, dichloromethane, chloroform, ethyl acetate, methanol and ethanol was determined using by GC/MS. Furthermore, the antioxidant activity (diphenylpicrylhydrazyl (DPPH), anti-aging, and anti-tuberculosis of olive leaf extracts were evaluated. The results indicated that extract of Oleaeuropaea L. has a considerable contains in polyphenols (hydroxytyrosol, oleuropein and their derivatives) regarding its antioxidant effects, the major components were detected by GC/MS in Olea dichloromethane extract are Hexadecanoic acid (15.82%), 7(4Dimethylaminophenyl)3,3,12trimethyl3,12dihydro6 Hpyrano[2,3c]acridin 6 one (11.21%), and in Olea chloroform extract are Hexatriacontane (12.68%), nTetratr iacontane (10.95%). The results concluded that the plant extract of chloroform showed no anti-aging activities and the lower anti-aging activities for cyclohexane extract, while, the Olea dichloromethane extract was the most active extract. The obtained data confirmed that the most active extract of anti-tubercolisis was for chloroform and ethyl acetate extract, while, anti-tubercolisis activity of ethanolic extract was the lower. The extract amount as well as the solvent polarity influence the inhibitory activity. A favorable connection was demonstrated inter alia the leaf extracts antioxidant activity and the content of total phenol.

Ultrasound-assisted green extraction methods: An approach for cosmeceutical compounds isolation from Macadamia integrifolia pericarp

This study aimed was to examine the potential of several green extraction methods to extract cosmetic/cosmeceutical components from Macadamia integrifolia pericarps, which were a by-product of the macadamia nut industry. M. integrifolia pericarps were extracted by conventional solvent extraction process using 95% v/v ethanol and various green extraction methods, including infusion, ultrasound, micellar, microwave, and pulsed electric field extraction using water as a clean and green solvent. The extracts were evaluated for total phenolic content using Folin-Ciocalteu method.The antioxidant activities were evaluated by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS), ferric reducing/antioxidant power, and ferric-thiocyanate method. The anti-skin ageing activities were investigated by means of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition using enzyme-substrate reaction assay. The irritation profile of the extracts was evaluated by the hen's egg test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) test. The results noted that ultrasound-assisted extraction yielded the significantly highest extract amount with the significantly highest total phenolic content (p < 0.05), especially when the extraction time was 10 min. The aqueous extract from ultrasound-assisted extraction possessed the most potent antioxidant and anti-skin ageing activities (p < 0.05). Its antioxidant activities were comparable to ascorbic acid and Trolox, whereas the anti-skin ageing activities were equivalent to epigallocatechin-3-gallate and oleanolic acid. Besides, the extract was safe since it induced no irritation in the HET-CAM test. Therefore, ultrasound-assisted extraction was suggested as an environmentally friendly extraction method for M. integrifolia pericarp extraction and further application in the cosmetic/cosmeceutical industries.

Anti-cancer, Anti-collagenase and Anti-elastase Potentials of Some Natural Derivatives: In vitro and in silico Studies

The anti-cancer activities of the compounds were evaluated against KYSE-150, KYSE-30, and KYSE-270 cell lines and also on investigated esophageal line HET 1 A as a standard. Modified inhibitory impact on enzymes of collagenase and elastase were used Thring and Moon methods, respectively. Among both compounds, both of them recorded impact on cancer cells being neutral against the control, both had IC50 lower than 100 µM and acted as a potential anticancer drug. The chemical activities of Skullcapflavone I and Skullcapflavone II against elastase and collagenase were investigated utilizing the molecular modeling study. IC50 values of Skullcapflavone I and Skullcapflavone II on collagenase enzyme were obtained 106.74 and 92.04 µM and for elastase enzyme were 186.70 and 123.52 µM, respectively. Anticancer effects of these compounds on KYSE 150, KYSE 30, and KYSE 270 esophageal cancer cell lines studied in this work. For Skullcapflavone I, IC50 values for these cell lines were obtained 14.25, 19.03, 25.10 µM, respectively. Also, for Skullcapflavone II were recorded 20.42, 34.17, 22.40 µM, respectively. The chemical activities of Skullcapflavone I and Skullcapflavone II against some of the expressed surface receptor proteins (CD44, EGFR, and PPARγ) in the mentioned cell lines were assessed using the molecular docking calculations. The calculations showed the possible interactions and their characteristics at an atomic level.

Antioxidant and Anti-Skin Aging Potential of Selected Thai Plants: In Vitro Evaluation and In Silico Target Prediction

The skin is the largest organ that performs a variety of the body's essential functions. Impairment of skin structure and functions during the aging process might severely impact our health and well-being. Extensive evidence suggests that reactive oxygen species play a fundamental role in skin aging through the activation of the related degradative enzymes. Here, the 16 Thai medicinal plant species were screened for their potential anti-skin aging properties. All extracts were investigated for total phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant, anti-elastase, and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as the binding ability of compounds with target enzymes by molecular docking. Among all the plants screened, the leaves of A. occidentale and G. zeylanicum exhibited strong antioxidants and inhibition against elastase and tyrosinase. Other potential plants include S. alata leaf and A. catechu fruit, with relatively high anti-elastase and anti-tyrosinase activities, respectively. These results are also consistent with docking studies of compounds derived from these plants. The inhibitory actions were found to be more highly positively correlated with phenolics than flavonoids. Taken together, our findings reveal some Thai plants, along with candidate compounds as natural sources of antioxidants and potent inhibitors of elastase and tyrosinase, could be developed as promising and effective agents for skin aging therapy.

Brewers' spent hop revalorization for the production of high added-value cosmetics ingredients with elastase inhibition capacity

This article summarizes the analysis of α and β-acids and prenylflavonoids from brewers' spent hop (BSH) as source of bioactive molecules to improve skin integrity by inhibiting elastase activity. To maximize the efficacy of the BSH extracts, it was necessary to identify the most bioactive hop compounds and the extraction parameters to maximize elastase inhibition and total antioxidant capacity. Thus, a computational methodology was carried out to test the anti-elastase potential of these hop molecules, detecting cis-iso-α-cohumulone and 8-prenylnaringenin as main inhibitors. Then, BSH extracts were optimized to ensure the maximum extraction of bioactive compounds, using compatible solvents (water and 100% plant-based propanediol) according to the green cosmetic standards. Finally, a determination and quantification method based on HPLC-MS/MS was used to guarantee the presence of the bioactive molecules, detecting a higher concentration of cis-iso-α-cohumulone and 8-prenylnaringenin in those samples with high anti-elastase activity. By optimizing extraction conditions and agents, a BSH extract was designed, showing high antioxidant (81.9 mmol Trolox/L) and high anti-elastase capacities.

Naturally Occurring Functional Ingredient from Filamentous Thermophilic Cyanobacterium Leptolyngbya sp. KC45: Phytochemical Characterizations and Their Multiple Bioactivities

Cyanobacteria are rich in phytochemicals, which have beneficial impacts on the prevention of many diseases. This study aimed to comprehensively characterize phytochemicals and evaluate multifunctional bioactivities in the ethanolic extract of the cyanobacterium Leptolyngbya sp. KC45. Results found that the extract mainly contained chlorophylls, carotenoids, phenolics, and flavonoids. Through LC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analysis, 38 phenolic compounds with promising bioactivities were discovered, and a higher diversity of flavonoids was found among the phenolic compounds identified. The extract effectively absorbed the harmful UV rays and showed high antioxidant activity on DPPH, ABTS, and PFRAP. The extract yielded high-efficiency inhibitory effects on enzymes (tyrosinase, collagenase, ACE, and α-glucosidase) related to diseases. Interestingly, the extract showed a strong cytotoxic effect on cancer cells (skin A375, lung A549, and colon Caco-2), but had a much smaller effect on normal cells, indicating a satisfactory level of safety for the extract. More importantly, the combination of the DNA ladder assay and the TUNEL assay proved the appearance of DNA fragmentation in cancer cells after a 48 h treatment with the extract, confirming the apoptosis mechanisms. Our findings suggest that cyanobacterium extract could be potentially used as a functional ingredient for various industrial applications in foods, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and nutraceuticals.

Anti-Aging, Anti-Acne, and Cytotoxic Activities of Houttuynia cordata Extracts and Phytochemicals Analysis by LC-MS/MS

Although many biological properties of Houttuynia cordata have been found, its anti-aging and anti-acne effects have not yet been investigated. This study was aimed to evaluate the in vitro anti-aging and anti-acne activities of H. cordata extracts and their cytotoxic activities and phytochemicals analyzed with liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Dried aerial parts of H. cordata were given different extractions. The aqueous and ethanolic extracts obtained were named HCA and HCE, respectively, and used to screen total phenolic and flavonoid contents. In vitro anti-aging, skin-related antimicrobial, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), in vitro cytotoxic, and LC-MS/MS analyses were performed. The total phenolic contents of the HCA and HCE were 5.11 ± 0.25 and 27.02 ± 1.07 mg gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g dry extract while their total flavonoid contents were 104.94 ± 5.16 and 571.86 ± 2.86 mg quercetin equivalent (QE)/g dry extract, respectively. The HCA and HCE inhibited the activities of collagenase (28.33–46.00%), elastase (30.00–34.33%), and hyaluronidase (93.87–98.72%). The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) of the HCA against Cutibacterium acnes DMST14916 were 5.77 and 5.77 mg/mL while those of the HCE were 2.47 and 2.47 mg/mL, respectively. Cell collapses of C. acnes after treatment with the extracts were observed with SEM. The HCE was not toxic to macrophages, keratinocytes, and fibroblasts up to 400 mg/mL. The HCA showed toxicity against macrophages at 62.5 mg/mL and both skin cells at 250 mg/mL. The main phytochemicals in the extracts were identified with LC-MS/MS. Phenolic compounds, flavonoids, and flavonoid derivatives in H. cordata extracts could be major phytochemicals to possess a broad spectrum of biological activities including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-aging activities. The findings from this study showed that the HCE has potential anti-aging and anti-acne properties while having non-cytotoxic activities on the immune and skin cells. These results indicate that the extract is probably advantageous in the development of skincare cosmeceutics and beauty treatments.

Comparison of chemical profiles, antioxidation, inhibition of skin extracellular matrix degradation, and anti-tyrosinase activity between mycelium and fruiting body of Cordyceps militaris and Isaria tenuipes

CONTEXT

Cordyceps militaris and Isaria tenuipes (Cordycipitaceae) are high-value fungi that are used for health-promoting food supplements. Since laboratory cultivation has begun for these fungi, increased output has been achieved.

OBJECTIVE

This study compared the chemical profiles, antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and skin extracellular matrix degradation inhibition between mycelium and fruiting body of C. militaris and I. tenuipes.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The antioxidative potential of 10% v/v aqueous infused extract from each fungus was separately investigated using 2,2-azinobis(3-ethylbenzo-thiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS), 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), ferric reducing antioxidant ability, and ferric thiocyanate methods. The inhibition against MMP-1, elastase, and hyaluronidase were determined to reveal their anti-wrinkle potential. Anti-tyrosinase activities were determined.

RESULTS

C. militaris and I. tenuipes extracts were found to contain a wide range of bioactive compounds, including phenolics, flavonoids, and adenosine. A correlation was discovered between the chemical compositions and their biological activities. The extract from I. tenuipes fruiting body (IF) was highlighted as an extraordinary elastase inhibitor (IC50 = 0.006 ± 0.004 mg/mL), hyaluronidase inhibitor (IC50: 30.3 ± 3.2 mg/mL), and antioxidant via radical scavenging (ABTS IC50: 0.22 ± 0.02 mg/mL; DPPH IC50: 0.05 ± 0.02 mg/mL), thereby reducing ability (EC1: 95.3 ± 4.8 mM FeSO4/g extract) and lipid peroxidation prevention (IC50: 0.40 ± 0.11 mg/mL). IF had a three-times higher EC1 value than ascorbic acid and significantly higher elastase inhibition than epigallocatechin gallate.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSIONS

IF is proposed as a powerful natural extract with antioxidant and anti-wrinkle properties; therefore, it is suggested for further use in pharmaceutical, cosmeceutical, and nutraceutical industries.

ANTIAGE-DB: A Database and Server for the Prediction of Anti-Aging Compounds Targeting Elastase, Hyaluronidase, and Tyrosinase

Natural products bear a multivariate biochemical profile with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antitumoral properties. Along with their natural sources, they have been widely used both as anti-aging and anti-melanogenic agents due to their effective contribution in the elimination of reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by oxidative stress. Their anti-aging activity is mainly related to their capacity of inhibiting enzymes like Human Neutrophil Elastase (HNE), Hyaluronidase (Hyal) and Tyrosinase (Tyr). Herein, we accumulated literature information (covering the period 1965–2020) on the inhibitory activity of natural products and their natural sources towards these enzymes. To navigate this information, we developed a database and server termed ANTIAGE-DB that allows the prediction of the anti-aging potential of target compounds. The server operates in two axes. First a comparison of compounds by shape similarity can be performed against our curated database of natural products whose inhibitory potential has been established in the literature. In addition, inverse virtual screening can be performed for a chosen molecule against the three targeted enzymes. The server is open access, and a detailed report with the prediction results is emailed to the user. ANTIAGE-DB could enable researchers to explore the chemical space of natural based products, but is not limited to, as anti-aging compounds and can predict their anti-aging potential. ANTIAGE-DB is accessed online.

Mushroom β-Glucan Recovered from Antler-Type Fruiting Body of Ganoderma lucidum by Enzymatic Process and Its Potential Biological Activities for Cosmeceutical Applications

Mushrooms are incredibly valuable macro fungi that are an important and integral part of the ecosystem. In addition to being used as cuisine, mushrooms have been used for medicinal purposes for many centuries. This research applied a process for recovering β-glucan (BG) from the antler-type fruiting body of Ganoderma lucidum as well as tested the biological activities related to cosmeceutical applications. The characterization of complex structure was performed by fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) and nuclear magnetic resonance (MNR) spectroscopies. The obtained extract contained 40.57% BG and 7.47% protein, with the detectable bioactivities of anti-tyrosinase and antioxidation. Consequently, it showed the activity that can be used to whiten the skin by reducing or inhibiting the process of skin pigmentation. The BG also showed moderate activities of anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase. The test by the HET-CAM confirmed no skin irritation of the complex extract. Based on human peripheral blood mononuclear cell (PBMC) test, the BG had no significant inhibiting effect on cell viability. In addition, the obtained BG had functional properties higher than commercially available BG, especially oil-binding capacity. These findings provided new insights into the potential application of G. lucidum BG as a polymeric material in the cosmeceutical industries.

Polyphenolic Characterization, Antioxidant, Antihyaluronidase and Antimicrobial Activity of Young Leaves and Stem Extracts from Rubus caesius L

Fruits are the main food part of the European dewberry (Rubus caesius L.), known as a source of polyphenols and antioxidants, while very little attention is paid to leaves and stems, especially young first-year stems. The purpose of this work was to analyze for the first time water and ethanol extracts obtained from young, freshly developed, leaves and stems of the European dewberry to determine their antioxidant and biological activity, whereas most of the papers describe biological properties of leaves collected during summer or autumn. As the phytochemical profile changes during the growing season, the quantitative and qualitative content of flavonoid glycosides and flavonoid aglycones was analyzed using reversed phase liquid chromatography/electrospray ionization triple quadrupole mass spectrometry (LC-ESI-MS/MS) with multiple reaction monitoring (MRM). The ability to inhibit hyaluronidase as well as antioxidant activity (2,2 diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl: DPPH and ferric antioxidant power: FRAP) were estimated. Extracts were also analyzed against Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. The results of the qualitative phytochemical analysis indicated the presence of flavonoid aglycones and flavonoid glycosides, with the highest amount of tiliroside, hyperoside, isoquercetin, astragalin, rutin and catechin in ethanol extracts. DPPH and FRAP tests proved the high antioxidant activity of the extracts from leaves or stems and the antihyaluronidase assay revealed for the first time that water and ethanol extracts obtained from the stems exhibited the ability to inhibit hyaluronidase activity resulting in an IC₅₀ of 55.24 ± 3.21 and 68.7 ± 1.61 μg/mL, respectively. The antimicrobial activity has never been analyzed for European dewberry and was the highest for Clostridium bifermentans and Clostridium sporogenes—anaerobic sporulation rods as well as Enterococcus faecalis for both water and ethanol extracts.

Structural characterization and antagonistic effect against P-selectin-mediated function of SFF-32, a fucoidan fraction from Sargassum fusiforme

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Sargassum fusiforme (Harvey) Setchell, or Haizao, has been used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) since at least the eighth century a.d. S. fusiforme is an essential component of several Chinese formulas, including Haizao Yuhu Decoction, used to treat goiter, and Neixiao Lei Li Wan used to treat scrofuloderma. The pharmacological efficacy of S. fusiforme may be related to its anti-inflammatory effect.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To determine the structural characteristics of SFF-32, a fucoidan fraction from S. fusiforme, and its antagonistic effect against P-selectin mediated function.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The primary structure of SFF-32 was determined using methylation/GC-MS and NMR analysis. Surface morphology and solution conformation of SFF-32 were determined by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Congo red test, and circular dichroic (CD) chromatography, respectively. The inhibitory effects of SFF-32 against the binding of P-selectin to HL-60 cells were evaluated using flow cytometry, static adhesion assay, and parallel-plate flow chamber assay. Furthermore, the blocking effect of SFF-32 on the interaction between P-selectin and PSGL-1 was evaluated using an in vitro protein binding assay.

RESULTS

The main linkage types of SFF-32 were proven to →[3)-α-l-Fucp-(1→3,4)-α-l-Fucp-(1]2→[4)-β-d-Manp-(1→3)-d-GlcAp-(1]2→4)-β-d-Manp-(1→3)-β-d-Glcp-(1→4)-β-d-Manp-(1→2,3)-β-d-Galp-(1→4)-β-d-Manp-(1→[4)-α-l-Rhap-(1]3→. The sulfated unit or terminal xylose residues were attached to the backbone through the C-3 of some fucose residues and terminal xylose residues were attached to C-3 of galactose residues. Moreover, SFF-32 disrupted P-selectin-mediated cell adhesion and rolling as well as blocked the interaction between P-selectin and its physiological ligand PSGL-1 in a dose-dependent manner.

CONCLUSIONS

Blocking the binding between P-selectin and PSGL-1 is the possible underlying mechanism by which SFF-32 inhibits P-selectin-mediated function, which demonstrated that SFF-32 may be a potential anti-inflammatory lead compound.

Turanecio hypochionaeus: In Silico Studies, and Determination of Its Polyphenol Contents, Bioactivities, and Anti-Microbial Potential

The aim of this study was to identify and quantify the phenolic composition of Turanecio hypochionaeus Bosse and determine the anti-urease, anti-lipase, antidiabetic, anti-melanogenesis, antibacterial, and anti-Alzheimer properties. IC50 results for all enzymes were obtained between 0.234-116.50 µg/mL and and this plant inhibited HMG_CoA R and glucosidase enzymes more with IC50 values of 0.234 and 116.50 µg/mL, respectively. Among the 11 secondary metabolites identified in T. hypochionaeus extract, chlorogenic acid 255.459±1.17 µg g-ˡ), benzoic acid (56.251±1.98 µg g-ˡ), and catechin (29.029±0.27 µg g-ˡ ) were determined as the most abundant phenolic compounds. According to the results of the tested microorganisms, the plant extracts showed antimicrobial and antifungal properties in a dose-dependent manner. In molecular docking study, the interactions of active compounds extracting extracted from Turanecio hypochionaeus plant and showing activity against diverse metabolic enzymes were examined. The most active compound 1, (chlorogenic acid) has -12.80, -12.80, -12.60 and -12.00 kcal/mol binding energy value against HMG_CoA R, and α-amylase, α-glucosidase, and lipase, respectively.

Determination of essential oil and biological activities of Hypericum ternatum Poulter and H. scabrum L. species collected from different localities: is H. scabrum an alternative to multifunctional species ST JOHN'S WORT (H. perforatum)?

The importance of Hypericum L. species, being used in traditional medicine, in the scientific world is increasing day by day. Hypericum species are plants that have been used in the treatment of many diseases for a long time and have healing properties. In the current study, the essential oil compositions of Hypericum scabrum L. and H. ternatum Poulter collected from different localities in Turkey were determined by GC-MS/FID. In addition, their antioxidant, cytotoxic, and antimicrobial activities with their enzyme inhibitory potentials (cholinesterase, urease, tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase) were investigated. Also, in vitro and in silico studies of the major components of the species have been carried out on the studied enzymes. It was determined that four H. scabrum samples mainly contained α-pinene (55.99%-62.80%) while three H. ternatum samples contained 2-methyloctane (9.45%-22.39%) and α-pinene (12.75%-33.08%). While H. scabrum essential oils possessed significant biological activity potential except for the antimicrobial activity, H. ternatum samples did not. All essential oil samples of H. scabrum exhibited a high cytotoxic effect (IC50 21.67 ± 0.34 to 34.67 ± 0.45 μg/mL) against colon cancer cell line (HT-29) and indicated higher acetyl-(Inhibiton% 83.30 ± 1.90 to 93.08 ± 1.04) and butyryl-cholinesterase (Inhibiton% 80.58 ± 1.19 to 93.28 ± 1.99) inhibitory activity than the standard compound, galantamine. Furthermore, all samples of H. scabrum showed high tyrosinase (Inhibiton% 69.00 ± 1.64 to 95.25 ± 1.42) and elastase (Inhibiton% 27.58 ± 0.34 to 36.69 ± 0.18) inhibitory effects. These biological activity results indicated that H. scabrum essential oil could be used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.