Anti-elastase, anti-tyrosinase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 inhibitory activity of earthworm extracts as potential new anti-aging agent

Pharmacological effects of bioactive agents in earthworm extract: A comprehensive review

This review compiles information from the literature on the chemical composition, pharmacological effects, and molecular mechanisms of earthworm extract (EE) and suggests possibilities for clinical translation of EE. We also consider future trends and concerns in this domain. We summarize the bioactive components of EE, including G-90, lysenin, lumbrokinase, antimicrobial peptides, earthworm serine protease (ESP), and polyphenols, and detail the antitumor, antithrombotic, antiviral, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, analgesic, antioxidant, wound-healing, antifibrotic, and hypoglycemic activities and mechanisms of action of EE based on existing in vitro and in vivo studies. We further propose the potential of EE for clinical translation in anticancer and lipid-modifying therapies, and its promise as source of a novel agent for wound healing and resistance to antibiotic tolerance. The earthworm enzyme lumbrokinase embodies highly effective anticoagulant and thrombolytic properties and has the advantage of not causing bleeding phenomena due to hyperfibrinolysis. Its antifibrotic properties can reduce the excessive accumulation of extracellular matrix. The glycolipoprotein extract G-90 can effectively scavenge reactive oxygen groups and protect cellular tissues from oxidative damage. Earthworms have evolved a well-developed defense mechanism to fight against microbial infections, and the bioactive agents in EE have shown good antibacterial, fungal, and viral properties in in vitro and in vivo experiments and can alleviate inflammatory responses caused by infections, effectively reducing pain. Recent studies have also highlighted the role of EE in lowering blood glucose. EE shows high medicinal value and is expected to be a source of many bioactive compounds.

Cubeb (Piper cubeba L.): nutritional value, phytochemical profiling and dermacosmeceutical properties

Introduction

Cubeb, Piper cubeba L., has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and culinary practices, with a wide range of biological and pharmacological activities.

Objective

Herein, we determined the phytochemical profile, mineral, fatty acids, and amino acid contents of P. cubeba berries and assessed the dermacosmeceutical properties of their water extract and essential oil (EO). These included assessing their antioxidant and antibacterial activities as well as their in vitro inhibitory activities against tyrosinase and elastase enzymes. In addition, molecular docking and molecular dynamics studies were performed on the major identified compounds of the EO.

Results and discussion

A total of forty-three compounds belonging to organic acids, phenolic acids and flavonoids were found in the water extract, while 36 volatile compounds were identified in the EO with Z-isoeugenol, dihydroeugenol, β-pinene, E-caryophyllene, and 1,8-cineole as major constituents. The berries were found to be rich in sodium and iron, have moderate zinc content along with low contents of total nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Amino acid analysis revealed a considerable concentration of isoleucine and phenylalanine, whereas 11,14,17-eicosatrienoic acid and linoleic acid were identified as the major fatty acids. In the DPPH and FRAP assays, the water extract elicited considerable antioxidant activity compared to the reference compounds. Enzyme inhibitory assays revealed that the EO had a potential to inhibit tyrosinase and elastase enzymes with IC50 values of 340.56 and 86.04 μg/mL, respectively. The water extract and EO completely inhibited the bacterial growth at MIC of 50 mg/mL and 20%, respectively. At sub-MIC concentrations, the extract and the EO substantially reduced the biofilm formation by up to 26.63 and 77.77%, respectively, as well as the swimming and swarming motilities in a dose-dependent manner. Molecular docking and molecular dynamics showed that the five main components of P. cubeba EO could be the major contributors to the elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory effect.

Conclusion

This study emphasizes the promising potential of P. cubeba as a valuable source of natural compounds that can be utilized for the development of innovative pharmaceuticals, dietary supplements, and dermacosmeceutical agents.

Discovery of matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors as anti-skin photoaging agents

Photodamage is the result of prolonged exposure of the skin to sunlight. This exposure causes an overexpression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), leading to the abnormal degradation of collagen in the skin tissue and resulting in skin aging and damage. This review presents a detailed overview of MMPs as a potential target for addressing skin aging. Specifically, we elucidated the precise mechanisms by which MMP inhibitors exert their anti-photoaging effects. Furthermore, we comprehensively analyzed the current research progress on MMP inhibitors that demonstrate significant inhibitory activity against MMPs and anti-skin photoaging effects. The review also provides insights into the structure-activity relationships of these inhibitors. Our objective in conducting this review is to provide valuable practical information to researchers engaged in investigations on anti-skin photoaging.

Bioprospection of the Antarctic Diatoms Craspedostauros ineffabilis IMA082A and Craspedostauros zucchelli IMA088A

In extreme environments such as Antarctica, a diverse range of organisms, including diatoms, serve as essential reservoirs of distinctive bioactive compounds with significant implications in pharmaceutical, cosmeceutical, nutraceutical, and biotechnological fields. This is the case of the new species Craspedostauros ineffabilis IMA082A and Craspedostauros zucchellii IMA088A Trentin, Moschin, Lopes, Custódio and Moro (Bacillariophyta) that are here explored for the first time for possible biotechnological applications. For this purpose, a bioprospection approach was applied by preparing organic extracts (acetone and methanol) from freeze-dried biomass followed by the evaluation of their in vitro antioxidant properties and inhibitory activities on enzymes related with Alzheimer's disease (acetylcholinesterase: AChE, butyrylcholinesterase: BChE), Type 2 diabetes mellitus (T2DM, α-glucosidase, α-amylase), obesity (lipase) and hyperpigmentation (tyrosinase). Extracts were then profiled by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (UPLC-HR-MS/MS), while the fatty acid methyl ester (FAME) profiles were established by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Our results highlighted strong copper chelating activity of the acetone extract from C. ineffabilis and moderate to high inhibitory activities on AChE, BChE, α-amylase and lipase for extracts from both species. The results of the chemical analysis indicated polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) and their derivatives as the possible compounds responsible for the observed activities. The FAME profile showed saturated fatty acids (SFA) as the main group and methyl palmitoleate (C16:1) as the predominant FAME in both species. Overall, our results suggest both Antarctic strains as potential sources of interesting molecules with industrial applications. Further studies aiming to investigate unidentified metabolites and to maximize growth yield and natural compound production are required.

Effects of Water-Ethanol Extracts from Four Sphagnum Species on Gene Expression of Selected Enzymes in Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Their Antioxidant Properties

Mosses (Bryophyta), particularly species of the genus Sphagnum, which have been used for centuries for the treatment of skin diseases and damage, are still not explored enough in terms of their use in cosmetics. The purpose of this study was to determine the antioxidant properties of water-ethanol extracts from four selected species of the genus Sphagnum (S. girgenshonii Russow, S. magellanicum Brid., S. palustre L., and S. squarrosum Crome) and their impact on the expression of genes encoding key enzymes for the functioning of the skin. In this study, the effects of Sphagnum extracts on the expression of genes encoding tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and hyaluronic acid synthase in human dermal fibroblasts were determined for the first time in vitro. The extracts inhibited tyrosinase gene expression and showed antioxidant activity. The experiment showed an increase in the expression of some genes encoding collagenase (MMP1) or hyaluronidase (HYAL2, HYAL3 and HYAL4) and a decrease in the hyaluronan synthase (HAS1, HAS2 and HAS3) genes expression by the tested extracts. The obtained results suggest that using extracts from the tested Sphagnum species in anti-aging cosmetics does not seem beneficial. Further studies are needed to clarify their impact on the skin.

Choline chloride-based deep eutectic solvent as an inhibitor of metalloproteases (collagenase and elastase) in cosmetic formulation

Green chemistry and engineering are potential alternatives for achieving higher sustainability and lower generation of hazardous compounds in chemical product design, production, and use. Deep Eutectic Solvents (DES) are characterized as green solvents and have become increasingly attractive due to their characteristic design solvents. In this work, two DES (choline chloride (ChCl)/glycerol and ChCl/Urea), aqueous solutions of the DES-forming components, and green tea extracts obtained with DES were used as anti-ageing active in cosmetic products using in vitro tests to inhibit extracellular matrix metalloproteases (such as collagenase and elastase). Finally, the stability of the formulations with DES as a cosmetic active was also evaluated. The results showed that DES based on ChCl/Urea and ChCl/glycerol exhibited remarkable inhibition values of collagenase (91.1 and 92.7%, respectively) and elastase (49.8 and 45.7%, respectively). However, pure urea displayed better inhibition values (66%) for elastase, possibly due to its direct contribution to intramolecular hydrogen bonds. ChCl/glycerol showed remarkable stability in the average cube diameter values, which may indicate no change in the conformation of the micellar structure of the cosmetic formulation. Moreover, the formulation containing this DES remained stable at room temperature. Given the remarkable results, DES can be applied in cosmetic products for anti-ageing purposes.

Aging Skin and Natural Bioactives that Impede Cutaneous Aging: A Narrative Review

The skin aging which entails modifications in the entire skin and skin support system is caused as a result of complex blend of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The main objective of this review is to provide critical insights into the effect of the aging determinants (intrinsic and extrinsic) on aging skin and to focus on a few classes of natural bioactives that were reported to counteract symptoms of cutaneous aging, pose potential, and beneficial health effect on aging skin supported with relevant scientific evidence. The narrative review of this cutaneous antiaging study incorporating the literature findings was retrieved from the search of computerized databases PubMed and Scopus, hand searches, and authoritative books. The antiaging skin care approach of using bioactives are basically nutritional hormetins, available from our natural heritage, identified as potent free radical scavengers, antioxidants, moisturizers, cell repairing agents, and ultraviolet protectives which have started to seek considerable attention among researchers and consumers due to the undesirable effect of chemical-based constituents on human health and environment. With the booming antiaging strategies, beauty has become the prime factor in considering one's health and overall "wellness". As promoting healthy aging is essential, the objective of aesthetic dermatology should shift from cosmetic interventions to the betterment of quality of life of aging society. The paper also discusses on certain artificial learning/machine-based algorithms, useful in screening of bioactive ingredients, helpful in developing of more tailored formulations. This narrative overview on skin antiaging natural bioactives and artificial learning-based bioactive screening approaches contributes for the improvement in dermatological drug discovery, in the development of novel targeted lead compounds and accelerates aging research and pharmaceutical research.

Molecular Characterization of Prunus lusitanica L. Fruit Extracts and Their Health-Promoting Potential in Inflammation, Diabetes, and Neurodegenerative Diseases

Prunus lusitanica L. is a shrub belonging to the genus Prunus L. (Rosaceae family) that produces small fruits with none known application. Thus, the aim of this study was to determine the phenolic profile and some health-promoting activities of hydroethanolic (HE) extracts obtained from P. lusitanica fruits, harvested from three different locations. Qualitative and quantitative analysis of extracts was performed using HPLC/DAD-ESI-MS and antioxidant activity was assessed by in vitro methods. Antiproliferative/cytotoxic activity was determined on Caco-2, HepG2, and RAW 264.7 cells, anti-inflammatory activity was assessed using lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 cells, and the antidiabetic, antiaging, and neurobiological action of extracts was determined in vitro by assessing their inhibitory effect against the activity of α-amylase, α-glucosidase, elastase, tyrosinase, and acetylcholinesterase (AChE). Results showed that P. lusitanica fruit HE extracts from the three different locations showed identical phytochemical profile and bioactivities, although small differences were observed regarding the quantities of some compounds. Extracts of P. lusitanica fruits contain high levels in total phenolic compounds, namely, hydroxycinnamic acids, as well as flavan-3-ols and anthocyanins, primarily cyanidin-3-(6-trans-p-coumaroyl)glucoside. P. lusitanica fruit extracts have a low cytotoxic/antiproliferative effect, with the lowest IC₅₀ value obtained in HepG2 cells (352.6 ± 10.0 μg/mL, at 48 h exposure), but high anti-inflammatory activity (50-60% NO release inhibition, at 100 μg/mL extract) and neuroprotective potential (35-39% AChE inhibition, at 1 mg/mL), and moderate antiaging (9-15% tyrosinase inhibition, at 1 mg/mL) and antidiabetic (9-15% α-glucosidase inhibition, at 1 mg/mL) effects. The bioactive molecules present in the fruits of P. lusitanica deserve to be further explored for the development of new drugs of interest to the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry.

Optimization and scale up of the enzymatic hydrolysis of Californian red worm protein (Eiseniafoetida)

Although the best-known use of the different species of earthworm is the production of organic fertilizer, they can also be considered a rich source of biologically and pharmacologically-active compounds, for use in the treatment of various diseases. In recent decades, with the development of biochemical technologies, research on the pharmaceutical effects of compounds extracted from different species of earthworms has begun. Enzymatic hydrolysis is the most common and widely used technique for producing bioactive hydrolysates, because it uses moderate operating conditions, with a certain specificity for the substrate. In the present study, the objective was to optimize and scale up the enzymatic hydrolysis of Eisenia foetida protein to obtain peptides with biological activity. The substrate characterization was carried out according to AOAC, a response surface design was performed for the optimization of the enzymatic hydrolysis and then the scaling was performed by means of dimensional analysis. The results show that the major component of the paste is protein, 65% of which is albumin, and the absence of pathogenic microorganisms was also found. Regarding optimization, it was found that the optimal hydrolysis conditions are achieved with pH = 8.5; temperature = 45 °C; amount of substrate = 125 g and volume of enzyme = 1245μL. For the scaling, 4 dimensionless pi-numbers were calculated which describe the process with no statistically significant differences between the model and the prototype; it can be concluded that the enzymatic hydrolysate of Eisenia foetida presents high values of antioxidant activity evaluated by different methodologies.

Optimization of Cyclodextrin-Assisted Extraction of Phenolics from Helichrysum italicum for Preparation of Extracts with Anti-Elastase and Anti-Collagenase Properties

Helichrysum italicum is a plant traditionally used for skin-related disorders that is becoming an increasingly popular ingredient in cosmetic products. In this work, a "green" ultrasound-assisted extraction method for H. italicum phenolics was developed using skin-friendly cyclodextrins (CDs). Extraction conditions needed for the greatest yield of target compounds (total phenolics, phenolic acids, and flavonoids) were calculated. The composition of the extracts was determined using LC-MS and spectrophotometric methods. Among the tested CDs, 2-hydroxylpropyl-beta-CD (HP-β-CD) was the best suited for extraction of target phenolics and used to prepare two optimized extracts, OPT 1 (the extract with the highest phenolic acid content) and OPT 2 (the extract with the highest total phenol and flavonoid content). The extracts were prepared at 80 °C, using 0.089 g of plant material/g solvent (0.6 mmol of HP-β-CD), with or without addition of 1.95% (w/w) lactic acid. The main metabolite in both extracts was 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid. It was found that the addition of lactic acid greatly contributes to the extraction of arzanol, a well-known anti-inflammatory agent. IC₅₀ values of the anti-elastase (22.360 ± 0.125 μL extract/mL and 20.067 ± 0.975 for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and anti-collagenase (12.035 ± 1.029 μL extract/mL and 14.392 ± 0.705 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) activities of the extracts surpassed those of the applied positive controls, namely ursolic and gallic acids. This activity deems the prepared extracts promising ingredients for natural cosmetics, appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products, removing the need for the evaporation of conventional solvents.

Biochemical Pilot Study on Effects of Pomegranate Seed Oil Extract and Cosmetic Cream on Neurologically Mediated Skin Inflammation in Animals and Humans: A Comparative Observational Study

The presence of phenobarbital and formaldehyde in drugs, food, and beverages can lead to various health issues, including inflammation, oncogenesis, and neurological distress. Psychological stress leads to mood fluctuations and the onset of skin inflammation. Skin inflammation has a range of causes, including chemicals, heavy metals, infection, immune-related disorders, genetics, and stress. The various treatments for skin inflammation include medical and cosmetic creams, diet changes, and herbal therapy. In this study, we investigated the effects of Avocom-M and pomegranate seed oil extract (PSOE) against phenobarbital- and formaldehyde-induced skin biochemical changes in rats. We analyzed the constituents of PSOE using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry and inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry. We also observed biochemical changes in the skin of human volunteers with and without TROSYD and PSOE as a skin cream. We compared the biochemical changes in human volunteers' skin before treatment and 21 days after the treatment stopped. The outcomes showed an improvement in the rats' biochemical status, due to PSOE and Avocom-M treatment. The human volunteers treated with TROSYD and PSOE showed substantial amelioration of skin inflammation. PSOE, Avocom-M, and TROSYD produced beneficial effects by reducing the levels of cyclooxygenase-2, lipid peroxidation, tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, elastase, collagenase, and nitric oxide in the animals tested on and in human volunteers.

Antioxidant and Anti-Skin Aging Potential of Selected Thai Plants: In Vitro Evaluation and In Silico Target Prediction

The skin is the largest organ that performs a variety of the body's essential functions. Impairment of skin structure and functions during the aging process might severely impact our health and well-being. Extensive evidence suggests that reactive oxygen species play a fundamental role in skin aging through the activation of the related degradative enzymes. Here, the 16 Thai medicinal plant species were screened for their potential anti-skin aging properties. All extracts were investigated for total phenolic and flavonoid contents, antioxidant, anti-elastase, and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as the binding ability of compounds with target enzymes by molecular docking. Among all the plants screened, the leaves of A. occidentale and G. zeylanicum exhibited strong antioxidants and inhibition against elastase and tyrosinase. Other potential plants include S. alata leaf and A. catechu fruit, with relatively high anti-elastase and anti-tyrosinase activities, respectively. These results are also consistent with docking studies of compounds derived from these plants. The inhibitory actions were found to be more highly positively correlated with phenolics than flavonoids. Taken together, our findings reveal some Thai plants, along with candidate compounds as natural sources of antioxidants and potent inhibitors of elastase and tyrosinase, could be developed as promising and effective agents for skin aging therapy.

Brewers' spent hop revalorization for the production of high added-value cosmetics ingredients with elastase inhibition capacity

This article summarizes the analysis of α and β-acids and prenylflavonoids from brewers' spent hop (BSH) as source of bioactive molecules to improve skin integrity by inhibiting elastase activity. To maximize the efficacy of the BSH extracts, it was necessary to identify the most bioactive hop compounds and the extraction parameters to maximize elastase inhibition and total antioxidant capacity. Thus, a computational methodology was carried out to test the anti-elastase potential of these hop molecules, detecting cis-iso-α-cohumulone and 8-prenylnaringenin as main inhibitors. Then, BSH extracts were optimized to ensure the maximum extraction of bioactive compounds, using compatible solvents (water and 100% plant-based propanediol) according to the green cosmetic standards. Finally, a determination and quantification method based on HPLC-MS/MS was used to guarantee the presence of the bioactive molecules, detecting a higher concentration of cis-iso-α-cohumulone and 8-prenylnaringenin in those samples with high anti-elastase activity. By optimizing extraction conditions and agents, a BSH extract was designed, showing high antioxidant (81.9 mmol Trolox/L) and high anti-elastase capacities.

Cosmeceutical Effects of Ishige okamurae Celluclast Extract

Sulfated polysaccharides extracted from brown algae are unique algal polysaccharides and potential ingredients in the cosmeceutical, functional food, and pharmaceutical industries. Therefore, the present study evaluated the cosmeceutical effects, including antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammation, and photoprotective activities, of Ishige okamurae Celluclast extract (IOC). The IOC was abundant in sulfated polysaccharides (48.47%), polysaccharides (44.33%), and fucose (43.50%). Moreover, the IOC effectively scavenged free radicals, and its anti-inflammatory properties were confirmed in lipopolysaccharide-induced RAW 264.7 macrophages; therefore, the IOC may produce auxiliary effects by inhibiting reactive oxygen species (ROS). In vitro (Vero cells) and in vivo (zebrafish) studies further confirmed that the IOC produced a protective effect against hydrogen-peroxide-induced oxidative stress in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, the IOC suppressed intracellular ROS and apoptosis and enhanced HO-1 and SOD-1 expression through transcriptional activation of Nrf2 and downregulation of Keap1 in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, the IOC exhibited a potent protective effect against ultraviolet-B-induced skin damage and photoaging. In conclusion, the IOC possesses antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective activities, and can, therefore, be utilized in the cosmeceutical and functional food industries.

Chemical Composition, Antiaging Activities and Molecular Docking Studies of Essential Oils from Acca sellowiana (Feijoa)

This study aimed to investigate the chemical composition of essential oils isolated from Acca sellowiana (feijoa) leaves and stems and elaborate on their relevance as natural anti-aging, coupled with molecular-docking studies. The isolated oils were analysed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis and investigated for inhibitory effects against acetylcholinesterase, β -secretase, collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase. Molecular-modelling study was performed using MOE-Dock program to evaluate binding interactions of major components with the above-mentioned targets. The leaf oil revealed the predominance of caryophyllene oxide (24.3%), linalool (7.9%), and spathulenol (6.6%), while the stem oil was presented by caryophyllene oxide (38.1%), α-zingiberene (10.1%) and humulene oxide II (6.0%). The stem oil expressed superior inhibitory activities against acetylcholinesterase (IC 50 =0.15±0.01µg/mL), β -secretase (IC 50 =3.99±0.23µg/mL), collagenase (IC 50 =408.10±20.80 µg/mL), elastase (IC 50 =0.17±0.01 μg/mL) and tyrosinase (IC 50 =8.45 ± 0.40µg/mL). The valuable binding interactions and docking scores were observed for caryophyllene oxide and α-zingiberene with acetylcholinesterase. Besides, α-zingibirene followed by linalool and τ-cadinol revealed tight fitting with collagenase and elastase. Additionally, linalool, spathulenol and τ-cadinol showed the best binding energy to tyrosinase. This study provides valuable scientific data on A. sellowiana as potential candidates for the development of natural antiaging formulations.

Cosmeceuticals: A Newly Expanding Industry in South Africa

Africa is counted amongst the cosmetic market contributors; however, South Africa’s remarkable plant diversity is still largely untapped in terms of its potential for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Thus, we aim to provide a critical assessment of the advancements made in South African cosmeceuticals with emphasis towards online local companies/brands that are manufactured by small, medium and micro enterprises (SMMEs). For the current study, we limited our search of herbal cosmeceutical products to SMMEs with online websites, or products traded in other online cosmetic directories such as ‘Faithful to Nature’ and ‘African Botanicals’ using a simple Google search. We recorded more than 50 South African SMME companies/brands involved in the trade of cosmeceuticals. Skin and hair care were the major product categories widely traded in these online platforms. Furthermore, few patents were recorded from South African researchers and institutions thereof, which is quite alarming considering the extensive research that has been undertaken to study these commercially valuable plants. Based on the increasing number of new products and the wide pool of economically important plants coupled to their associated rich indigenous knowledge systems, the cosmeceutical sector can contribute to the economy, job creation, entrepreneurship skills, socio-economic development and intellectual property generation.

Composition of Nonextractable Polyphenols from Sweet Cherry Pomace Determined by DART-Orbitrap-HRMS and Their In Vitro and In Vivo Potential Antioxidant, Antiaging, and Neuroprotective Activities

Sweet cherry pomace is an important source of phenolic compounds with beneficial health properties. As after the extraction of phenolic compounds, a phenolic fraction called nonextractable polyphenols (NEPs) remains usually retained in the extraction residue, alkaline and acid hydrolyses and enzymatic-assisted extraction (EAE) were carried out in this work to recover NEPs from the residue of conventional extraction from sweet cherry pomace. In vitro and in vivo evaluation of the antioxidant, antihypertensive, antiaging, and neuroprotective capacities employing Caenorhabditis elegans was achieved for the first time. Extractable phenolic compounds and NEPs were separated and identified by families by high-performance thin-layer chromatography (HPTLC) with UV/Vis detection. A total of 39 phenolic compounds were tentatively identified in all extracts by direct analysis in real-time high-resolution mass spectrometry (DART-Orbitrap-HRMS). EAE extracts presented the highest in vitro and in vivo antioxidant capacity as well as the highest in vivo antiaging and neuroprotective capacities. These results showed that NEPs with interesting biological properties are retained in the extraction residue, being usually underestimated and discarded.

Vegetables and Their Bioactive Compounds as Anti-Aging Drugs

Aging is a continuous process over time that is mainly related to natural alterations in mechanical–biological processes. This phenomenon is due to several factors, including the time and energy of biological processes. Aging can be attributed to biological factors such as oxidative stress, cell longevity, and stem cell senescence. Currently, aging is associated with several diseases, such as neurodegenerative diseases, cancer, and other diseases related to oxidative stress. In addition, certain natural molecules, including those derived from vegetables, have shown the ability to delay the aging process. Their effects are linked to different mechanisms of action, such as tissue regeneration and the activation of longevity and anti-senescence genes. The present work discusses the impact of vegetables, and bioactive compounds isolated from vegetables, against the physiological and pathological aging process and accompanying human diseases.

Peptides and Peptidomimetics as Inhibitors of Enzymes Involved in Fibrillar Collagen Degradation

Collagen fibres degradation is a complex process involving a variety of enzymes. Fibrillar collagens, namely type I, II, and III, are the most widely spread collagens in human body, e.g., they are responsible for tissue fibrillar structure and skin elasticity. Nevertheless, the hyperactivity of fibrotic process and collagen accumulation results with joints, bone, heart, lungs, kidneys or liver fibroses. Per contra, dysfunctional collagen turnover and its increased degradation leads to wound healing disruption, skin photoaging, and loss of firmness and elasticity. In this review we described the main enzymes participating in collagen degradation pathway, paying particular attention to enzymes degrading fibrillar collagen. Therefore, collagenases (MMP-1, -8, and -13), elastases, and cathepsins, together with their peptide and peptidomimetic inhibitors, are reviewed. This information, related to the design and synthesis of new inhibitors based on peptide structure, can be relevant for future research in the fields of chemistry, biology, medicine, and cosmeceuticals.

Identification of a novel collagen-like peptide by high-throughput screening for effective wound-healing therapy

Tissue regeneration and wound healing are still serious clinical complications globally and lack satisfactory cures. Inspired by the impressive regeneration ability of the post-injury earthworms and their widely accepted medicinal properties, we screened and identified a novel collagen-like peptide from the amputated earthworms using high-throughput techniques, including transcriptomics, proteomics, and mass spectrum. The identified collagen-like peptide col4a1 was cloned and expressed to comprehensively investigate the wound healing effect and underlying mechanism. It exerted significant effects on wound healing both in vitro and in vivo, including enhanced viability, proliferation, migration of fibroblasts, granulation, and collagen deposition. Moreover, the col4a1 functioned via binding with integrin α₂β₁ and upregulating the RAS/MAPK signaling pathway. This work demonstrates that the novel collagen-like peptide col4a1 obtained from the amputated earthworms enables enhanced wound healing and provides new opportunities for wound care.

Identification of chia seed (Salvia hispanica L.) peptides with enzyme inhibition activity towards skin-aging enzymes

Chia (Salvia hispanica) seed peptides have drawn attention because of their antioxidant, antihypertensive and anti-inflammatory activities, making them ideal candidates for development of cosmeceutical skin products. However, there are no preceding reports that address their aging-related enzyme inhibitory activities. The aim of this study was to investigate the in vitro and in silico inhibitory activity of chia seed peptides towards the main aging-related enzymes. Enzyme-inhibition activity of < 3 kDa chia seed peptides towards collagenase, hyaluronidase, tyrosinase, and elastase was evaluated. Further fractions were obtained by size exclusion chromatography (SEC) and re-tested for enzyme inhibitory activity. Peptide sequences were identified from the most effective fraction and used for in silico analysis. The < 3 kDa peptides exhibited inhibitory activities towards elastase (65.32%, IC₅₀ = 0.43 mg/mL), tyrosinase (58.74%, IC₅₀ = 0.66 mg/mL), hyaluronidase (26.96%, IC₅₀ = 1.28 mg/mL), and collagenase (28.90%, IC₅₀ = 1.41 mg/mL). They showed mixed-type inhibition patterns towards elastase and hyaluronidase, while a non-competitive inhibition pattern was observed towards collagenase and tyrosinase. Fraction II obtained by SEC, showed higher enzyme inhibitory activity. Seven peptides were identified in this fraction (APHWYTN, DQNPRSF, GDAHWAY, GDAHWTY, GDAHWVY, GFEWITF, and KKLKRVYV), which according to in silico analysis, possess 19-29 enzyme-peptide pair interactions towards elastase and three peptide sequences shared homology sequence (GDAHW). These results demonstrate that peptides from chia seeds may contribute in the improvement of skin health by offering protection against aging-related enzymes by preventing degradation of the protein matrix on the skin; however, further in vivo studies are needed to evaluate its actual capability.

Development and Antimicrobial Evaluation of Eruca Sativa Oil Nanoemulgel with Determination of the Oil Antioxidant, Sun Protection Factor and Elastase Inhibition

OBJECTIVES

This project aims to develop a bio-natural nano-product with Cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical applications.

METHODS

E. sativa oil was evaluated for its anti-oxidant, sun protection factor and elastase inhibition. Then, nanoemulgel formulations were prepared for E. sativa oil through the combination of nanoemulsion with hydrogel. E. sativa nanoemulsion formulations were prepared by the help of a selfemulsification technique. After this, the optimum formulation was mixed with Carbopol to produce the nanoemulgel. Anti-bacterial and anti-fungal activities were evaluated.

RESULTS

Nanoemulsion occurred when the size of the droplets was 195.29 nm with the lowest polydispersibility index 0.207. The results of antioxidant, anti-elastase and SPF activities for E. sativa oil were 2.10 µg/ml, 25.1 µg/ml and an SPF value of 5.57, respectively. In addition, in the anti-bacterial test for Staphylococcus aureus, it was found that nanoemulgel has an inhibition zone of 2.1 cm in diameter. According to the MRSA, the inhibition zone was 1.5 cm.

CONCLUSION

E. Sativa oil could be a promising candidate in cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical preparations.

Anti-Photoaging Effect of Plant Extract Fermented with Lactobacillus buchneri on CCD-986sk Fibroblasts and HaCaT Keratinocytes

Ultraviolet (UV) exposure triggers the abnormal production of reactive oxygen (ROS) species and the expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that are responsible for photoaging. Probiotics are widely used in healthcare and for immune enhancement. One probiotic, Lactobacillus buchneri is found in Kimchi. This study was aimed at assessing the anti-photoaging effect of plant extracts fermented with L. buchneri (PELB) to develop functional cosmetics. We investigated the anti-photoaging effect of PELB in a UVB-induced photoaging in vitro model and selected effective extracts using the elastase inhibition assay, ELISA for Type I procollagen and collagenase-1, and quantitative real time PCR. Normal human dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes were pre-treated with PELB and exposed to UVB. We found that PELB decreased elastase activity and increased type I collagen expression in a UVB-induced photoaging in vitro model. In addition, PELB greatly reduced collagenase activity and MMP mRNA levels in a UVB-induced photoaging in vitro model. Furthermore, PELB promoted the expression of moisture factor and anti-oxidant enzymes in a UVB-induced photoaging in vitro model. These results indicated that the PELB could be potential candidates for the protective effects against UVB-induced photoaging. Overall, these results suggest that PELB might be useful natural components of cosmetic products.

Pharmacological activities of 4-methylene-8-hydroxybisabola-2,10-diene-9-one, a new compound isolated from Ryudai gold (Curcuma longa)

We previously reported the antifungal, antioxidant, and vasodilator effects of Ryudai gold (RD) and isolated some potentially active compounds. Here, we aimed to identify other active compounds present in RD and investigate their pharmacological effects, in terms of antioxidant, and inhibitory activities against skin disease-related enzymes, pancreatic α-amylase, and lipase enzymes. The methanol extract of RD rhizomes was subjected to repeated fractionation by silica gel column, Toyopearl HW-40F column, and high-performance liquid chromatography to obtain a pure compound. The isolated compound was characterized by analyzing its spectroscopic data, particularly nuclear magnetic resonance spectra. Inhibitory activities against α-amylase, pancreatic lipase, elastase, collagenase, xanthine oxidase, and tyrosinase were evaluated to investigate its potential antidiabetic, antiobesity, and enzyme inhibitory effects. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl-scavenging, reducing power, and 2-deoxyribose degradation assays. The purified compound was recognized as 4-methylene-8-hydroxybisabola-2,10-diene-9-one, a new compound. The content of this compound was 0.068 μmol/g or 0.016 mg/g of dry RG powder. Our results suggested that 4-methylene-8-hydroxybisabola-2,10-diene-9-one exhibited antidiabetic, antiobesity, enzyme inhibitory, and antioxidant activities by inhibiting their respective enzymes activity. 4-methylene-8-hydroxybisabola-2,10-diene-9-one could be a promising candidate therapeutic agent or a lead compound for the development of new synthetic drugs.

Cecropia pachystachya Leaves Present Potential to Be Used as New Ingredient for Antiaging Dermocosmetics

Several biological activities have been reported for leaf extracts of Cecropia pachystachya species, including antioxidant and wound healing activities. This study aims to report, for the first time, the antiaging potential of the hydroethanolic (HE) and the ethanolic (EE) extracts obtained from the leaves of C. pachystachya using different in vitro assays. Both HE and EE presented relevant antioxidant capacity in different models, including phosphomolybdenum, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl (DPPH), carotene/linoleic acid bleaching, and thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (TBARS) assays. Their ability to prevent the production of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) was also evaluated, and both extracts showed important activity, especially HE. The extracts also stimulated the fibroblasts proliferation in vitro, specialized cells that produce several mediators which maintain the skin integrity and youthfulness. Cytotoxicity of the extracts was not observed for this lineage or HEK-293, human embryonic kidney cells widely used to evaluate cytotoxicity of chemical compounds. HE also exhibited the ability to inhibit the collagenase (metalloproteinase MMP-2) and elastase activities. The total phenolic and flavonoids contents were also determined. HPLC analysis revealed the presence of the flavonoids orientin and iso-orientin, which were quantified to be used as chemical markers. The results suggested that the extracts of C. pachystachya leaves present the potential to be used in dermocosmetic formulations to prevent the skin aging process, which attracts the attention of pharmaceutical companies and researchers interested in the development of novel ingredients likely to be used as active principles in antiaging products.

Anti-Oxidant and Anti-Melanogenic Properties of Essential Oil from Peel of Pomelo cv. Guan Xi

Here, we investigated the anti-oxidant and anti-melanogenic effects of pomelo peel essential oil (PPEO) from pomelo cv. Guan Xi. The volatile chemical composition of PPEO was analyzed with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The most abundant component of PPEO was limonene (55.92%), followed by β-myrcene (31.17%), and β-pinene (3.16%). PPEO showed strong anti-oxidant activities against 2,2-diphenyl-2-picryhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2′-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulphonate (ABTS) and superoxide anion free radicals. Based on the B16 melanoma cell system, the effects of PPEO on the viability and morphology of B16 cells and the production of melanin were evaluated. The results revealed that PPEO at concentrations below 50 μg/mL could decrease the melanin content without affecting cell viability and morphology. Intracellular tyrosinase (TYR) activity and Western blot analysis showed that PPEO could down-regulate the expression level of TYR in B16 cells and dose-dependently inhibit TYR activity (by a maximum of 64.54%). In conclusion, PPEO has good anti-oxidant and anti-melanogenic activity, and thus can be widely used as a natural antioxidant in the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries.

Comparative in vitro studies of the biological potential and chemical composition of stems, leaves and berries Aronia melanocarpa's extracts obtained by subcritical water extraction

Preparation of functional products as well as natural-based products requires non-toxic but effective extraction techniques. In this study, subcritical water extraction was used for the extraction of different aronia parts in order to explore their potential. Stems, leaves and berries of Aronia melanocarpa were extracted under the following conditions: temperature 130 °C; pressure 35 bar; time 20 min. The total phenols and flavonoid contents of the produced extracts were evaluated by conventional spectrophotometric methods. Additionally, the main phenolic compounds were also identified and quantified by high performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection (HPLC-DAD). The biological potential of the extracts was evaluated by determining their antioxidant (DPPH, ABTS and lipid peroxidation assays), antimicrobial, enzyme inhibitory (cholinesterase and elastase) and cytotoxic effects (HeLa, A-549, LS-174T, MRC-5 cell lines). The results indicate that leaves and berries extracts exhibited stronger antioxidant action when compared with stems. The strongest cholinesterase and elastase inhibitory activity was also found in berries extract. Similarly, the extracts obtained from leaves and berries showed considerable cytotoxic effects against tested cell lines. A moderate antimicrobial effects was observed too. Demonstrated biological potential of all three aronia parts can trace a new road map for developing newly designed functional products.

Comparison of biofunctional activity of Asparagus cochinchinensis (Lour.) Merr. Extract before and after fermentation with Aspergillus oryzae

Asparagus cochinchinensis root (ACR) is used in traditional Chinese medicine. In this study, ACR was first extracted with 25% ethyl acetate (EA) and then fermented by Aspergillus oryzae to enhance its antioxidant activity and evaluate its potential antityrosinase activity. The physiological activity and cytotoxicity of A. oryzae-fermented ACR extract, along with its antityrosinase activity and effects on melanogenic factor levels in human epidermal melanocytes (HEMs), were analyzed and compared with those of the unfermented extract. The results showed that the physiological activity of the fermented extract in vitro or in cells was significantly higher than that of the unfermented extract. The IC₅₀ values for 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazine radical scavenging activity, reducing power, and antityrosinase activity in vitro for the fermented extract were 250.6 ± 32.5, 25.7 ± 3.5, and 50.6 ± 3.1 mg/L, respectively. The fermented extract favored cellular antityrosinase activity with low melanin production in human melanoma cells compared with the unfermented extract. The inhibitory mechanism of melanin synthesis by unfermented extract was independent of the tested melanogenesis-related proteins. However, the inhibitory mechanism of the fermented extract was possibly caused by synergistic inhibition of these proteins. Thus, A. oryzae-fermented ACR extract may be used for developing new health food or cosmetic ingredients.

A novel microbial technique for producing high-quality sophorolipids from horse oil suitable for cosmetic applications

Horse oil contains linoleic, palmitoleic and unsaturated fatty acids that are similar to those in human skin, and may therefore be an ideal substance from which to isolate biosurfactants for cosmetic products to improve human skin quality. Herein, an innovative approach was developed to synthesise sophorolipids from horse oil by hydrolysis, followed by fermentation using the yeast Candida bombicola. The yield of sophorolipids from direct fermentation of horse oil and hydrolysed horse oil was 40.6 ± 1.3 g l^-1 and 58.4 ± 1.8 g l^-1 respectively. To further increase the yield, 30-40 g l^-1 glucose was added in a fed-batch fermentation process to maintain the pH between 4.0 and 4.5, resulting in a conversion yield of 71.7 ± 0.8 g l^-1 . The purity and structure of the synthesised sophorolipids were analysed by ultra-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance. An in vitro human dermal fibroblast model was used as a surrogate for human skin to measure elastase inhibition activity. Antiwrinkle properties of isolated sophorolipids were better than those of horse oil or hydrolysed horse oil in several in vitro assays. Furthermore, no cytotoxicity was observed at a concentration of 50 μg ml^-1 , and wound-healing capacity was evident in a cell culture model. Additionally, the synthesised sophorolipids attenuated lipopolysaccharide-induced expression of inflammatory cytokines in macrophages, and efficiently inhibited several strains of bacteria and yeast. In conclusion, fed-batch fermentation of hydrolysed horse oil is a novel and efficient approach for producing high-quality and high-yield sophorolipids that exhibit great potential as cosmetic ingredients.

Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activities of Agarum cribrosum Phlorotannin Extracted by Ultrasound Treatment

An ultrasonic process for the effective extraction of phlorotannins from Agarum cribrosum with high total phlorotannin content (TPC) was optimized using response surface methodology (RSM). Optimal conditions for ultrasound extraction consisted of temperature: 30°C; time: 5.75 h; ratio of solvent to solid: 35 mL/g, where the TPC was 19.59 mg PGE/g. The crude extract was further partitioned using hexane, dichloromethane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), and water, in that order. The EtOAc fraction with the highest TPC exhibited the strongest radical-scavenging activity against DPPH, ABTS, hydrogen peroxide, and reducing power, which was similar to that of ascorbic acid. Furthermore, the IC50 values of the EtOAc fraction against collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity were 29.63, 16.13, and 6.17 μg/mL, respectively, whereas epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), EGCG, and kojic acid, the counterpart positive controls, were 68.90, 23.34, and 43.29 μg/mL, respectively. The EtOAc fraction was further fractionated using Sephadex LH-20 column chromatography, which yielded two major and four minor subfractions. The structure of the SF5 and SF6 subfractions were further determined through HPLC-DAD-QMS analyses and 1H and 13C NMR, in which only trifuhalol A was identified. The SF5 and SF6 subfractions exhibited significantly higher radical-scavenging activity against DPPH and reducing power than the EtOAc fraction, but no statistically significant differences were detected for ABTS, hydrogen peroxide, collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Based on the results, we propose that A. cribrosum phlorotannins could be a good source for natural antioxidants and cosmeceutical.

Low-molecular weight keratins with anti-skin aging activity produced by anaerobic digestion of poultry feathers with Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1

Bioactive peptides contribute to various cellular processes including improved skin physiology. Hence, bioactive keratins have attracted considerable attention as active cosmetic ingredients for skin health. Here, we obtained low molecular weight (LMW) keratins from native chicken feathers by anaerobic digestion with an extremely thermophilic bacterium Fervidobacterium islandicum AW-1, followed by stepwise fractionation through ultrafiltration. To assess the effects of the feather keratins on skin health, we performed in vitro and ex vivo assays to investigate their inhibitory effects on matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). As results, LMW feather keratins marginally inhibited collagenase, elastase, and radical scavenging activities. On the other hand, LMW feather keratins significantly suppressed the expression of ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced MMP-1 and MMP-13 in human dermal fibroblasts. Furthermore, phospho-kinase antibody array revealed that LMW feather keratins suppressed UVB-induced phosphorylation of Akts, c-Jun N-terminal kinases 1, p38 beta, and RSK2, but not ERKs in human dermal fibroblast. Overall, these results suggest that LMW feather keratins are potential candidates as cosmeceutical peptides for anti-skin aging.

Poly herbal formulation with anti-elastase and anti-oxidant properties for skin anti-aging

Background

Skin forms an important part of human innate immune system. Wrinkles, thinning and roughening of skin are some of the symptoms that affect the skin as it ages. Reactive oxygen species induced oxidative stress plays a major role in skin aging by modulating the elastase enzyme level in the skin. Extrinsic factors that affect skin aging such as UV radiation can also cause malignant melanoma. Here we selected four medicinal plant materials, namely, leaves of Nyctanthes arbor-tristis, unripe and ripe Aegle marmelos fruit pulp and the terminal meristem of Musa paradisiaca flower and investigated their anti-aging properties and cytotoxicity in vitro individually as well as in a poly herbal formulation containing the four plant extracts in different ratios.

Methods

The phytochemical contents of the plant extracts were investigated for radical scavenging activity and total reducing power. Based upon its anti-oxidant properties, a poly herbal formulation containing leaves of Nyctanthes arbor-tristis, unripe and ripe fruit pulp of Aegle marmelos, and the terminal meristem of Musa paradisiaca flower in the ratio 6:2:1:1 (Poly Herbal Formulation 1) and 1:1:1:1 (Poly Herbal Formulation 2), respectively were formulated.

Result

It has been observed that the Poly Herbal Formulation 1 was more potent than Poly Herbal Formulation 2 due to better anti-oxidant and anti-elastase activities in NIH3T3 fibroblast cells. In addition Poly Herbal formulation 1 also had better anti-cancer activity in human malignant melanoma cells.

Conclusion

Based on these results these beneficial plant extracts were identified for its potential application as an anti-aging agent in skin creams as well as an anti-proliferation compound against cancer cells.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (10.1186/s12906-018-2097-9) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Effect of Monascus-Fermented Soybean Extracts on Antioxidant and Skin Aging-Related Enzymes Inhibitory Activities

We investigated the in vitro inhibitory activity against skin aging-related enzymes and antioxidant activity of Monascus-fermented soybean extracts (MFSEs) obtained by using different solvents. The highest Trolox equivalent (TE) antioxidant capacity (3.13±0.06 mM TE/g) and oxygen radical absorbance capacity (2.79±0.09 mM TE/g) of MFSEs were evaluated for the methanol and 80% ethanol extracts, respectively. The antioxidant capacities increased with increasing concentration (0.5~50 mg/mL). In addition, the methanol and 80% ethanol extracts showed an effective inhibition against tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, and elastase compared with those of acetone and hot water extracts (P<0.05). Results indicate that the inhibitory activities against skin aging-related enzymes and antioxidant properties provide evidence for the nutricosmetic potentials of Monascus-fermented soybeans.

Impact of HIV infection on α1-antitrypsin in the lung

Emphysema is one of the most common lung diseases in HIV⁺ individuals. The pathogenesis of HIV-associated emphysema remains unclear; however, radiographic distribution and earlier age of presentation of emphysema in the lungs of HIV⁺ patients are similar to deficiency of α₁-antitrypsin (A1AT), a key elastase inhibitor in the lung. Reduced levels of circulating A1AT in HIV⁺ patients suggest a potential mechanism for emphysema development. In the present study we asked if A1AT levels and activity in the bronchoalveolar lavage fluid (BALF) differ in HIV⁺ and HIV^- patients with and without emphysema. A1AT levels were measured by ELISA in plasma and BALF from a cohort of 21 HIV⁺ and 29 HIV^- patients with or without emphysematous changes on chest CT scan. To analyze A1AT function, we measured elastase activity in the BALF and assessed oxidation and polymerization of A1AT by Western blotting. Total A1AT was increased in the BALF, but not in the plasma, of HIV⁺ compared with HIV^- patients, regardless of the presence or absence of emphysema. However, antielastase activity was decreased in BALF from HIV⁺ patients, suggesting impaired A1AT function. Higher levels of the oxidized form of A1AT were detected in BALF from HIV⁺ than HIV^- patients, which may account for the decreased antielastase activity. These findings suggest that, in the lungs of HIV⁺ patients, posttranslational modifications of A1AT produce a "functional deficiency" of this critical elastase inhibitor, which may contribute to emphysema development.

Inhibitory effect of burdock leaves on elastase and tyrosinase activity

Burdock (Arctium lappa L.) leaves generate a considerable amount of waste following burdock root harvest in Taiwan. To increase the use of burdock leaves, the present study investigated the optimal methods for producing burdock leaf extract (BLE) with high antioxidant polyphenolic content, including drying methods and solvent extraction concentration. In addition, the elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory activity of BLE was examined. Burdock leaves were dried by four methods: Shadow drying, oven drying, sun drying and freeze-drying. The extract solution was then subjected to total polyphenol content analysis and the method that produced BLE with the highest amount of total antioxidant components was taken forward for further analysis. The 1,1-diphenyl-2-pycrylhydrazyl scavenging, antielastase and antityrosinase activity of the BLE were measured to enable the evaluation of the antioxidant and skin aging-associated enzyme inhibitory activities of BLE. The results indicated that the total polyphenolic content following extraction with ethanol (EtOH) was highest using the freeze-drying method, followed by the oven drying, shadow drying and sun drying methods. BLE yielded a higher polyphenol content and stronger antioxidant activity as the ratio of the aqueous content of the extraction solvent used increased. BLE possesses marked tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activities, with its antielastase activity notably stronger compared with its antityrosinase activity. These results indicate that the concentration of the extraction solvent was associated with the antioxidant and skin aging-associated enzyme inhibitory activity of BLE. The reactive oxygen species scavenging theory of skin aging may explain the tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory activity of BLE. In conclusion, the optimal method for obtaining BLE with a high antioxidant polyphenolic content was freeze-drying followed by 30-50% EtOH extraction. In addition, the antielastase and antityrosinase activities of the BLE produced may be aid in the development of skincare products with antiwrinkle and skin-evening properties.

Hydroxycinnamic Acids and Their Derivatives: Cosmeceutical Significance, Challenges and Future Perspectives, a Review

Bioactive compounds from natural sources, due to their widely-recognized benefits, have been exploited as cosmeceutical ingredients. Among them, phenolic acids emerge with a very interesting potential. In this context, this review analyzes hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives as multifunctional ingredients for topical application, as well as the limitations associated with their use in cosmetic formulations. Hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives display antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as ultraviolet (UV) protective effects, suggesting that they can be exploited as anti-aging and anti-inflammatory agents, preservatives and hyperpigmentation-correcting ingredients. Due to their poor stability, easy degradation and oxidation, microencapsulation techniques have been employed for topical application, preventing them from degradation and enabling a sustained release. Based on the above findings, hydroxycinnamic acids present high cosmetic potential, but studies addressing the validation of their benefits in cosmetic formulations are still scarce. Furthermore, studies dealing with skin permeation are scarcely available and need to be conducted in order to predict the topical bioavailability of these compounds after application.

Anti-Oxidant, Anti-Aging, and Anti-Melanogenic Properties of the Essential Oils from Two Varieties of Alpinia zerumbet

Here, we investigated the anti-oxidant and anti-aging effects of essential oils (EOs) from the leaves of Alpinia zerumbet (tairin and shima) in vitro and anti-melanogenic effects in B16F10 melanoma cells. The anti-oxidant activities were performed with 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH); 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS); nitric oxide; singlet oxygen; hydroxyl radical scavenging; and xanthine oxidase. The inhibitory activities against collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase were employed for anti-aging. The anti-melanogenic was assessed in B16F10 melanoma cells by melanin synthesis and intracellular tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The volatile chemical composition of the essential oil was analyzed with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The EO was a complex mixture mainly consisting of monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes. The results revealed that tairin and shima EOs showed strong anti-oxidant activities against DPPH and nitric oxide, hydroxyl radical scavenging activity, and xanthine oxidase inhibition. Compared to shima EO; tairin EO exhibited strong anti-aging activity by inhibiting collagenase, tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, and elastase (IC50 = 11 ± 0.1; 25 ± 1.2; 83 ± 1.6; and 213 ± 2 μg/mL, respectively). Both EOs inhibited intracellular tyrosinase activity; thus, reducing melanin synthesis. These results suggest that tairin EO has better anti-oxidant/anti-aging activity than shima EO, but both are equally anti-melanogenic.